DIY plywood vice. Homemade bench vise: video, photo, drawings. Video: simple channel vice

It’s not difficult to make reliable and easy-to-use vices with your own hands. The need for this may be caused not only by the desire to save on the purchase of a serial model, but also by the need to use a clamping device that will allow it to more effectively solve the tasks assigned to it.

Serial models of vices, although universal, are not always able to provide high accuracy fixation of parts, they are quite bulky and have significant weight.

Homemade vices, used primarily in the home workshop, can be made more suitable for performing certain tasks. technological operations, which means more efficient and convenient.

Homemade bench vices may differ little from factory ones, both in appearance, and in terms of reliability

Any person who spends a lot of time in his home workshop will confirm that it is quite difficult to do without such a device as a vice. Without a clamping device, it is difficult to perform various operations with parts made of metal, wood and plastic. The use of a vice guarantees not only high accuracy and efficiency of drilling, milling, etc. operations, but also the safety of the machine operator. If there is no desire or opportunity to purchase a serial model of such a device, then it is quite possible to make a vice with your own hands, spending very little time and effort on it.

Homemade bench vise: option No. 1

You can make excellent strong bench vices yourself from profile pipes. Below is detailed instructions in photo selection format, supplemented detailed video. Unfortunately. video on English language, but this is unlikely to prevent a competent master from understanding the essence of the process.

Vise parts from the profile Running nuts Fastening the running nuts to the base of the vice
Screwing in the lead screw Maximum opening of the vice The vice is assembled, all that remains is to paint
Painting the moving part Painting the fixed part The vice is ready for work

Instructions for making a vice: option No. 2

Homemade vices do not require complex design developments and calculations. You can use numerous photos and drawings of such devices, which are easy to find on the Internet. A fairly simple, but at the same time very effective design is created on the basis of metal pipes.

As is known, pipes used for the installation of water and gas pipelines are manufactured in such a way that a product of a certain diameter fits tightly into a pipe of a subsequent standard size. It is this feature of the pipes that allows them to be used for such a device as a homemade bench vise. Visual drawing, photos and descriptions of the manufacturing process will help you make this vise yourself.

Structural elements that will consist of homemade vice, are:

  • line segment metal pipe, which will act as the internal moving part of the device;
  • a piece of metal pipe of the following standard size, which will serve as an external fixed part;
  • running nut with thread diameter M16;
  • lead screw with thread diameter M16;
  • a knob through which rotation will be imparted to the lead screw;
  • front and rear supports, due to which the stationary pipe will be fixed to the base;
  • pieces of rectangular pipe (future clamping jaws of a vice);
  • two lock nuts with thread diameters M16 and M18.

Two main parts of the vice (movable and fixed)

To make such a vice with your own hands, you begin by welding a flange to the end of a section of a larger diameter pipe, which will act as a stationary element. A nut with an M16 thread must be welded into the central hole of the flange. A flange with a central hole into which the lead screw will be passed is also welded to the end of a section of a movable pipe of a smaller diameter.

At some distance from the edge of the lead screw, an M18 nut is welded to it (it will become a fixing element). After this, the end of the lead screw, to which the nut is welded, must be passed through the inside of the movable pipe and inserted into the hole in the flange. In this case, the nut should press against the flange with its inside.

At the end of the lead screw protruding from outside flange, put on a washer and screw on an M16 nut, which is then welded to the screw. A washer must also be installed between the inner nut and the flange surface, which is necessary to reduce the friction force. To correctly perform this stage of making a homemade vice, it is better to focus on the corresponding video.

After the movable vice assembly is assembled, you should insert it into a fixed pipe of a larger diameter and screw the second end of the lead screw into the nut of the second flange. To connect the lead screw with the knob, a nut or washer can be welded to its end protruding from the side of the movable pipe, into the holes of which the knob will be inserted.

The clamping jaws of such a vice can be made from pieces of rectangular pipes, which are welded to the moving and fixed parts. To give the structure stability, two supports are welded to the bottom of the fixed pipe, for which corners or rectangular pipes can be used.

The inner tube can also rotate during the rotation of the lead screw, which makes the use of such a vice very inconvenient. To prevent this from happening, a longitudinal slot can be made in the upper part of the stationary pipe, and a locking screw can be screwed into the movable pipe, which will move along this slot and prevent rotation of the movable part.

Many photos of homemade vices of a similar design show devices whose moving and fixed parts are made of square or rectangular pipes. The use of such pipes also avoids rotation of the moving part of the vice.

The vise of the described design, authored by V. Legostaev, is a reliable and effective clamping device, easy to maintain and repair, which makes it very popular among home craftsmen.

How to make your own carpenter's vice

Almost anyone home handyman have to deal with the processing of wooden products. The need for such processing may be associated with the manufacture of various wooden structures, and with the repair of existing ones. Carry out this work using improvised tools with metal clamping elements, is not only inconvenient, but also fraught with damage to the surface wooden part, the appearance of dents and cracks on it. This is why it is best to use a carpenter's vice for wooden products. Making them yourself is also easy.

As in the case of a bench vice, finding drawings, photos and even videos of the manufacture of such devices on the Internet is not difficult.

The simplest design consists of the following elements:

  • massive body wooden block, which also serves as a fixed clamping jaw;
  • a movable sponge made of a wooden block;
  • cylindrical metal guides along which the movable jaw will move;
  • a lead screw that ensures movement of the movable jaw;
  • a crank through which rotation is imparted to the lead screw.

The body of such a vice, on which the metal guides are fixed, is attached to the surface of the workbench using long screws or bolts. It is necessary to make three holes in both the body and the movable jaw of the clamping device - for the guides and the lead screw. It is best to drill such holes simultaneously in both bars so that they are positioned exactly relative to each other.

The vice is an indispensable device when carrying out the most various works.

New tool It's expensive, and you need different vices. Let's look at ways to make a clamping device with your own hands.

Bench vice made from corrugated pipe

In order to make a reliable bench vise, you need welding machine and the following components:

  1. Several sections of professional pipe different sizes.
  2. Hardened steel stud with coarse thread.
  3. Double height nuts.

A drawing of a vice for a workbench is shown in the illustration. This is a universal option; changes in design are possible, depending on your tasks.

Manufacturing procedure

Supports are welded to the larger diameter pipe (body) from below. It is welded on the back side back wall(flange) made of steel 3-5 mm. A hole is drilled in the center and the running nut is welded. The rear jaw is welded on top, opposite the front support.

A front flange made of 3-5 mm steel is welded onto the end of the internal movable pipe. A stud with welded lock nuts is inserted into it. Thrust washers must be installed on both sides of the flange. An eyelet is welded onto the front end of the stud for the knob. The front jaw is attached to the top of the movable pipe.

IMPORTANT! The gap between the body and the moving pipe cannot be painted. There should be grease there. The same lubricant is applied to the threads of the stud.

For reliability, metal plates made of hardened steel can be screwed onto the jaws, for example, holders from turning tools, with notches made with a file.
Homemade bench vise, shown in the photo:

Carpenter's vice for workbench

To process wooden products you need a reliable clamp. There is a factory version of the vice integrated into carpentry workbench.

It is easy to make such a device yourself. Let's take a look at a typical drawing:

Sponges are made from soft, plastic wood, such as pine. Too much hard material will leave marks on the workpieces. The fixed part is attached to the workbench.

There must be a place for a workbench in your home workshop. Making a carpenter's vice with your own hands is not at all difficult. Handmade crafts are always pleasing to the eye. Having this simple tool, you can work with different wooden products and do wood carving. You can do without a carpenter's vice by clamping the workpieces into clamps or laying them on a workbench, but this is inconvenient. Processing the end of a workpiece cannot be done without a carpenter's vice, and clamps are simply not suitable. The metal leaves marks on the wood; the tool, if it jumps off the workpiece, can be damaged by the clamps. Thus, you can’t do without such a tool in a workshop, and you don’t have to buy it in a store; you can do it yourself.

Carpenter's vice is designed for clamping the product during work.

A carpenter's vice consists of a body with a movable plate, which moves by two guides. The mechanism itself is fixed to the workbench using metal fasteners. The jaws of the vice have the ability to attach wooden, plastic or metal plates to them. They are needed to protect the workpiece from damage during processing and clamping. You cannot do without overlays when working with soft wood.

To fix workpieces (rarely smaller than 20 cm), a spring quick-clamping mechanism is installed, because without it, if you use a screw clamp, you will have to rotate the jaw shift mechanism for too long. After quickly applying the jaws, final fixation is made with a screw with a special thread. They are attached to the workbench with screws.

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A homemade carpenter's vice requires a screw pin with a 20 mm thread and a cutting length of 150 mm. You can look for such a pin at a sports equipment store or order it from a turner in a locksmith shop. Its threads are very strong and can withstand significant loads. The longer the screw, the wider the vise jaws can be spread. For the specified sizes, they can be spaced at a distance of about 80 mm.

You will need the correct studs. Try looking for them at a hardware store in the hardware department or among old items and structures. For the proposed design of carpentry yews, studs from a moped mirror and its fasteners were taken. To construct a carpenter's vice, you can take studs from a moped mirror. They are bent, but a few hits with a hammer on an anvil will straighten them out.

To fasten the handle, a slot must be made in the long head of the screw. If the handle does not fit in size, it can be easily processed to required width holes using a file.

A handle made from a screw with a ring in place of the head is well suited for turning the clamp screw.

The sponges are formed from two boards. One of them will be stationary, made of a pine board and mounted on a workbench, and the second jaw of the vice will be a board measuring 20x18x500 mm. The larger size is the length.

A hole is drilled in each board where the screw will be inserted, using a drill of a suitable diameter. For the studs you will need a 10 mm drill; use it to drill through all the boards at once. In order not to disturb the location of the holes, it is convenient to connect them with nails, which are then carefully pulled out.

After this you can put in drilled holes studs and screw, install washer and nut.

Not all workpieces are equally large, so to be able to process the workpieces shorter, you need to make repositionable pins, and in both boards there are 2 additional holes closer to the clamp screw.

Screws can be selected bigger size, if you do this, then your carpentry vice will become universal. It will be possible to clamp and process long workpieces, work with the sides of boards, etc.

For carpentry work, you need a comfortable workbench that will have storage cells various instruments(files, chisels, etc.), a vice and everything necessary for work. The carpenter's table has some design features.

A carpentry workbench is used for processing wood products.

Making the base of the workbench

The manufacturing of the table is carried out in stages. First of all, blanks for the legs are prepared. To do this, you need to cut strips of plywood using circular saw. The width of the strips should correspond to the width of the legs. The strips need to be connected to each other to form a parallelepiped.

After the wood glue has dried, a recess is made on one side of the leg. A router with a straight cutter is used for this. The depth of the groove should be 2 cm. The shelf will be inserted into it.

Next, the table frame is constructed. For it, you need to cut plywood blanks of a certain size. In one of the strips you need to cut a recess, which will later serve for mounting a vice. It is best to use lamellas and cutters for them as fasteners for assembling the structure. You can also use dowels.

From 4 strips of plywood for the frame you need to glue a box. To do this, use wood glue or PVA. The glued box must be checked for squareness and equality of diagonals. If the product is smooth, then you can fix it with clamps. The box must remain in a fixed position until completely dry glue. The legs are attached to the resulting frame using screws. Next, the bottom shelf is glued in.

Next, you will need to prepare a shelf with special recesses for hand tool. It is also attached in a groove manner to the legs. The tool shelf is secured with confirmations. To attach, you need to drill and chamfer. To do this, it is more convenient to use a special wood drill for confirmations. It allows you to drill and chamfer at the same time. However, you can do this work and with a regular drill. It is necessary to recess the confirmation into the surface, since in the future the side with fasteners will be used to move the box, and the protruding confirmations will interfere with this.

Making a countertop

First, prepare a box for the countertop. For it you will need to prepare 5 parts from plywood: a bottom and 4 side walls. On the two side parts on the inside you need to prepare grooves for attaching the bottom. On the outside of the same walls of the box, recesses are made with a milling cutter, thanks to which the box will move along the side shelves.

The side walls are secured with dowels. Holes for fastening elements are drilled at their ends. The centers of the holes for fasteners must be moved to side surfaces adjacent walls. After all the preparation, the walls and bottom can be glued together using wood glue.

The bottom is additionally fixed with countersunk screws to the front wall and on the opposite side. To do this, holes are first made at the ends of the side elements through the thickness of the bottom. To process these holes, a chamfer or a cutter is used. Countersunk screws will be recessed into the surface, so they cannot be snagged.

Removable workbench cover: a - cover design (1 - base; 2 - side rail; 3 - liner; 4 - planing stop; 5 - guide; 6 - clamp for attaching the workbench to the table top; 7 - sawing stop); b - replaceable stops for planing.

After preparing the drawer, the tabletop itself is made. To do this, 2 sheets of plywood are cut out and glued together. The thicker the tabletop, the stronger the workbench will be. Strips of plywood are cut under the base of the tabletop. You will need 2 elements in the form of small parallelepipeds. Each of them must be glued together from 2 parts. Using special dowels, the strips are attached to the tabletop. You can use regular round dowels, but in this case you will need to use 2 times more fasteners. After this, holes are drilled in the future location for attaching the vice.

All elements of the tabletop base are connected using glue, dowels and clamps. It is necessary to check the evenness of the connection of these elements. A tabletop is installed on the finished box. For this, reinforced dowels are used.

After the glue has completely dried, markings are made for the stops. It is best to drill holes for them using a drill with a stand and a Fosner drill bit. This will allow you to get straight holes exactly in the place intended for them.

You can use the mechanism from an old workbench, if it is in working order, or purchase a new one in specialized stores.

The vice needs to be assembled and screwed to the tabletop. After this, the fixing brackets snap into place, thanks to which the guides will not fall out of the table.

Making handles for vices and stops

Workbench and clamping fixtures: a, c – wedge clamps for processing board edges; b – clamp for processing the ends of the board; d – carpenter’s vice.

The blank for the handle can be made from a wooden cylindrical piece of sufficient length. It should be slightly narrower than the hole in the vice intended for installing the handle. You will also need a wood crown 15-20 mm wider than cylindrical part. Using a plywood crown, you need to cut 2 washers. It is necessary to drill holes at the ends of the stick into which screws will be screwed to secure the washers. First, 1 washer is attached, and when the handle is installed in the hole in the vice, the second one is attached.

Next, stops are made from wood scraps round shape and square plywood blanks large thickness. In the center of the square you need to drill a hole corresponding in size to the holes previously made in the tabletop. In depth they should reach the middle of the square. A round piece is placed in the recess in the square and screwed with a screw. It is necessary to make 4 such stops. At this point, the work on making the workbench is completed.

Thus, carpenter's table you can do it yourself. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the features of such a design and perform all operations with precision and accuracy. As a result, you can create a table that is ideal for the master, taking into account individual wishes. Such a workbench will be functional, convenient and practical.