Conditions for growing amaryllis

1. Location:

2. Lighting conditions:

3. Humidity:

4. Ventilation

5. Optimal room temperature:

How to plant amaryllis

Choosing a pot

Soil preparation

Planting amaryllis step by step

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful ones with a smooth surface and good enough roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rot, mold, or stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, you should not choose it either.

Amaryllis transplant

Amaryllis propagation

Amaryllis from seeds at home

• Planting depth is 1-1.5 cm.

Dividing the bulb

This video will tell you how to cut an amaryllis bulb:

Reproduction by children

The most successful amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store-bought ones, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

Caring for amaryllis at home

Watering and fertilizing

Blooming amaryllis at home

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Amaryllis after flowering

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make them grow amaryllis twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, strictly organize a rest period for the bulb to rest and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, pots with amaryllis are taken out from their resting place, placed in a bright and insulated place, and watered. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

2. Mold and rot

3. Spider mite

4. Onion mite

5. Trips

6. Mealybug

9. Aphids

• Yellowness of leaves.

10. Springtail

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Such standard varieties as Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white streak in the middle), Gorgeous Pink (pink-colored petals) white), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Plant photos

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

1. Flowering time:

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Saturation of aroma:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• for amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• at hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. Number of flowers per plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

7. Presence of leaves during flowering:

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

9. Peduncle length:

• for amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• at hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb by shape:

• pear-shaped;

11. Characteristics of scales:

Description of amaryllis

Amaryllis is a popular indoor plant that is found in the flower collections of many gardeners. Demanded for its beautiful flowers and simple care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try too hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much work with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

For amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the growing season. So, at a certain time the plant actively grows, and at another time it begins to rest. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions, when temperatures hover near freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• During the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can also place the plant on a south-facing window, if you first shade it from the scorching daytime rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• During the growth phase, the plant should receive 14-16 hours of powerful, diffused sunlight each day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually reach towards the sun, which means that the pot will have to be constantly rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special supports.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture, so it is recommended to water it regularly with settled water at room temperature, through a tray, from which excess water is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but there is no need to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, withering of leaves, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. Optimal humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only sprayed periodically. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimal room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the rest period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10–12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Planting amaryllis at home photo

Choosing a pot

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It must be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, during care, a lightweight pot is more likely to be touched than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is selected based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that from it to all walls there should be up to 3-5 cm. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

Next we move on to choosing soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs. But anyone experienced florist will give up this idea and go prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: to do this, pour it over with strong boiling water or hold it over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

It is necessary to fill the bottom with drainage 2-3 cm thick. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, and small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and distributed over the surface of the pot. A large hole is also made in it to drain water.

The drainage from above is also covered with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm, in order to additionally protect against rotting of the roots due to the accumulation of water.

Planting amaryllis step by step

Planting indoor amaryllis photo

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface that have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rot, mold, or stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, you should not choose it either.

Amaryllis transplant

How to replant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis is transplanted after it has bloomed, waiting until the peduncle has completely withered.

There is no need to replant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more often than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too quickly, you can transplant it earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, water the plant abundantly 4 days before replanting.
2. On the day of transplantation, carefully remove the amaryllis along with the soil and carefully clear it of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotten roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and the daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to be separated (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you don’t have to do it. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases the amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow more children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Amaryllis propagation

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible ways propagation of amaryllis - by dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds

This is the longest method of reproduction and the least successful. If seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

Amaryllis seeds at home

To obtain seeds you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

Amaryllis from seeds photo seedlings

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination rate drops sharply over time.
• Before planting, moisten the soil well.
• Planting depth is 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• Place the pot with seeds in a warm, shaded place.
• They wait about a month for the emergence of seedlings, and 3 months after that, the seedlings are planted in different pots.

Dividing the bulb

How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo

This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the cuts with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25–27 ºС.
• The first leaf grows on the cuttings. They wait for the second one, and plant the plants in mature soil for bulbous plants, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

This video will tell you how to cut an amaryllis bulb:

Many gardeners successfully use bulb division to propagate amaryllis; it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful way to propagate amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store-bought ones, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small bulbs on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and pressing lightly into the ground. Only part of the onion is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly compact the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and the flowers are given rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis, although an exotic plant, is quite real in everyone’s home. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Caring for amaryllis at home

Amaryllis planting and care at home photo

Watering and fertilizing

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle is at least 10 cm high. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that the water does not get on the bulb while watering. It should fall purely on the soil around it.

In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intense flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor flowering plants will do - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Power of Life and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen are preferable.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted in a ratio of 1.5 cups per 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

When the leaves die completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out during the resting phase either.

Blooming amaryllis at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture there are tricks on how to change this period. The easiest one is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, producing mature peduncles already in 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to overload the bulb with flowering.

When the first flower appears and blooms, some cut off the peduncle and place it in a vase. Provided the water is updated daily, it can last there for up to three weeks. You don’t have to cut the peduncle, but it will last just as long and will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or pot of flowers in a cooler, darker location.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Why amaryllis does not bloom How to make amaryllis bloom

You must understand which of the reasons listed is present for you. It needs to be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When flowers wilt, the amount of incoming water and fertilizer is sharply reduced. They completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when there are no peduncles or leaves left.
2. All dead leaves are removed, but this should not be done forcibly. If you leave a partially living leaf, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the resting phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still living, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and put them in carton boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know tricks that make their amaryllis bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, strictly organize a rest period for the bulb to rest and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, pots with amaryllis are taken out from their resting place, placed in a bright and insulated place, and watered. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

red burn amaryllis photo

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong potassium permanganate. purple, after which the largest lesions are cut off and treated with brilliant green. Leave the plant in the air for a week, then plant it.

2. Mold and rot

Rot on amaryllis photo

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer and smells a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution specified by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It feels like the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This leads to their withering and drying out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

Damage to amaryllis by onion mite photo

• The insect attacks the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and lack of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• The bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35–40ºC for 5 minutes. After this, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the onion is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur bomb, which is set on fire. They wait 2 hours, after which they take it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis on fresh air another day.

5. Trips

Damage to amaryllis by thrips photo

• There are many small brown spots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and replant it in a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

Mealybug on amaryllis photo

Scale on amaryllis photo

• Dense scales are observed at the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white or even dark brown. Around them there is a sticky discharge, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is soaked in laundry soap and foamed. The leaves are actively wiped with it.

9. Aphids

Aphids on amaryllis photo

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are collected by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are visible on the surface of the soil.
• The moisture supply is reduced, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

Stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis that are selectively bred. True Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is prized by avid gardeners.

IN this moment breeders achieve the following goals:

• Growing large double and regular flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Non-double varieties include Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotic, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new flower forms. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow petals that are partially corrugated at the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that amaryllis of classic varieties is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties include Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Plant photos

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis

Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllidaceae family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow in the wild alone, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Pictured is hippeastrum

In order not to repeat ourselves, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - at the end of winter or beginning of spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Saturation of aroma:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• for amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• at hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. Number of flowers per plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. Presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which is slightly purple;
• the hollow tube, which is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• for amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• at hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb by shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened at the side.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe on the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Planting and flowering of amaryllis Amaryllis propagation and care at home

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one plant species to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, the geography here is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the homeland of plants.

The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is responsible for the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis was only one of the subspecies of lilies. They called him lionartsis. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant first appears in the works of Virgil. In his poetic works you can find a heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. Given name in Greek means "sparkling".

Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greenery of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

The beginning of amaryllis flowering is marked by the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Then the leaves grow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. The type of inflorescence is an umbrella.

Amaryllis growing in wildlife, can have flowers with white, pink and red petals of various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties yellow, purple, orange, green. An individual amaryllis flower is similar to a lily and a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Amaryllis belladonna planting and care at home photo

Despite the apparent cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will cause irritation. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap. You need to keep the flower away from pets and children.

Amaryllis, the care of which is quite simple if you follow simple rules, is a bulbous plant from the family of the same name. A native of South Africa, it was brought to Europe in the 18th century, where it quickly took one of the leading positions among beautifully flowering ornamental crops.

Types and varieties of plants

The genus is represented by a single species, which is known under two names - Amaryllis belladonna or Amaryllis the Beautiful. A perennial plant with a bulbous root system has sword-shaped basal leaves in two rows, framing a fleshy peduncle up to 60 cm in height. When flowering, an umbrella inflorescence is formed at the end of the arrow, consisting of flowers 5-8 cm in diameter with a variety of color scheme, depending on the variety.

After the appearance of amaryllis in the gardens and windowsills of Europeans, breeders do not stop working on developing new varieties, among which stand out:

• Durban– a large-flowered variety, distinguished by carmine-red, bell-shaped flowers with a white throat.
• Parker- a typical representative of the species is pink in color with a yellow base of the petals.
• Ice Queen- a variety with large flowers consisting of glossy white petals with a creamy coating on the edges.
• Vera – pink flowers of this variety have distinctive feature in the form of a pearlescent coating.
• Red Lion- a beautiful representative of the species with large flowers painted in an intense red color.
• La Paz- an original variety with flowers consisting of narrowed green petals edged with a red coating.

Amaryllis: growing features

The plant, distinguished by its high decorativeness combined with undemandingness, has a number of features associated with its natural growing environment that must be taken into account when cultivating a flower at home:

• sufficient amount of light;
• moderation of watering;
• choosing the right pot;
• regularity of fertilizing.

Home care

Successful cultivation of amaryllis requires compliance with basic care measures.

Lighting and location

Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which can be provided to the flower by placing the pot on windowsills in the south-east and south-west directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.

Important! IN summer season The duration of daylight should be at least 16 hours.

Temperature

The temperature regime for the full development of amaryllis depends on the development phase:

• During the active growth phase, the optimal temperature varies from 18 to 25°C depending on the time of day.
• During the rest period it is provided temperature regime in the range from 10 to 16°C.

Carefully! When growing crops, one should not allow strong temperature changes that negatively affect the plant.

Requirements for soil and pot

To obtain a flowering plant, you need to select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. The nutrient substrate, prepared from turf and leaf soils, sand and humus in a ratio of 2:2:2:1, is calcined in the oven before use to destroy pathogens.

Watering a flower and air humidity

When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen ball has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a tray with water for 20-30 minutes, which helps prevent unwanted water from entering the bulb, which occurs with the upper method of irrigation. Amaryllis easily adapts to the dry air in the apartment, so it does not require additional spraying.

Advice! To make it easier for the flower to breathe through the leaf blades, you should systematically wipe them from dust.

Feeding and fertilizer

Amaryllis needs regular feeding during the period of active growth:

• bird droppings diluted in water in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of liquid;
• mullein at the rate of 250 g per bucket of water;
• a solution of mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content, prepared from a bucket of water and 3 g of agrochemical.

Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red burn on the flower.

Flowering and pruning

With the arrival of autumn, the flowering of the crop is observed, which, unlike hippeastrum, occurs after the development of green mass. In the natural environment, this period, in which white and pink flowers bloom, falls in autumn. Many varieties with a variety of colors have been bred in cultivation. After flowering, the shoots die naturally and no pruning is required.

Transfer

The amaryllis flower is replanted every 3-4 years after flowering has completed.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A new container is selected so that the distance between the wall of the pot and the edge of the bulb is 2-3 cm.
2. Expanded clay drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot.
3. The bulb is inspected for diseases and placed in a pot, after which it is sprinkled with a new substrate so that ⅓ of the part remains above the ground level.
4. The substrate is compacted and slightly moistened.

Rest period

After the flowering phase is completed, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which lasts on average 2 months: watering and fertilizing are reduced. The shedding of leaves signals the beginning of active growth of the bulb. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room where the temperature should not exceed 16°C. Moistening is carried out as needed when the earthen ball dries out.

Disease and pest control

The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot when the maintenance regulations are violated - excessive watering, high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. If the disease develops intensively, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests observed on amaryllis are: spider mite, mealybugs and scale insects, which should be combated by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions indicated on the packaging.

Amaryllis propagation

Amaryllis is propagated in two ways: generative and vegetative.

Seeds

Due to the labor-intensive nature of the method and the inability to preserve varietal qualities, seed propagation at home is extremely rare.

If the florist still makes up his mind, then:

1. Held artificial pollination with a brush.
2. After two months, when the seed pods begin to crack, the seed material is collected.
3. Dried seeds are distributed over the surface of light, moist soil in January-February, and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of soil.
4. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until germination.
5. After the seedlings have formed 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are seated in separate pots.

Attention! New plants obtained in this way will enjoy their first flowering only after a seven-year growth period.

Children

During the next transplant, reproduction can be carried out by separating the children:

1. The baby with roots is separated from the mother bulb using a sharp instrument.
2. The sections are disinfected with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or a fungicide solution.
3. A small bulb is planted in a separate pot with prepared amaryllis substrate and moved to a warm room for rooting. After 1-3 years, mature bulbs will grow and are capable of flowering.

By dividing the bulb

The most popular technique in which:

1. A large onion is selected, freed from scales, and then divided into 4 parts.
2. The cuttings are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried ⅓ into a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22°C until rooting.

Why doesn’t amaryllis bloom and why do the flowers and leaves turn pale?

Despite the unpretentiousness of the crop, failure to comply with basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the flower losing its decorative properties or the complete absence of inflorescences.

The main reasons are:

• lack of lighting;
• lack of macro- and microelements;
• absence of a resting phase;
• untimely transplantation;
• deep embedding of the bulb;
• constant overflows leading to the development of diseases;
• incorrectly selected pot;
• presence of pests.

Important! If less than three years have passed since planting the bulb, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.

How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Often, hippeastrums from the tropical zones of South America, the genus of which has more than 85 species, are mistaken for amaryllis, which is represented by only one species.

There are a number of parameters that will help the gardener not make mistakes:

• bulb - in amaryllis the bulb is pear-shaped, while in a tropical flower it is round;
• inflorescence - amaryllis has umbrellas consisting of 6-12 flowers, while hippeastrum has a maximum of 6 flowers;
• flowering - amaryllis flowers bloom in autumn, and hippeastrum flowers bloom in spring and summer;
• peduncle - the hippeastrum has a hollow arrow.

So, the amaryllis flower is a beautifully flowering plant that requires minimal but proper care. Fulfilling all the requirements for maintaining the crop at home will allow the gardener to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of wondrous beauty.

Reminder for plant care

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the rest period - about 15 During flowering - when the top layer of soil dries out, do not water during the dormant period. Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poisonous juice, observing periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright, diffused light; in summer, direct rays of the sun are allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

Amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight for normal development.. During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On a south window, the amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature conditions during active growth:

• Daytime 20–22° C;
• At night no less than 18° C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimal temperature will be about 15° C, the minimum 10° C, and the maximum 18° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it may germinate too quickly, not allowing the plant to fully rest.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since differences in day and night temperatures in the middle zone can be significant. This plant does not like sudden decreases or increases in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

This flower requires a period of rest. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and produce a peduncle in the spring, it can be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Watering frequency – the top layer of soil should dry out slightly between waterings. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering ends, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), switch to the normal watering regime, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, you can spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, and bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis, a soil consisting of turf soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. The soil acidity indicator should be pH 6.0–6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

• Sod land - 2 parts;
• Leaf soil - 2 parts;
• Humus – 1 part;
• Peat – 1 part;
• Washed river sand – 1 part.

Sand can be replaced with leavening agents such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified soil composition will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during watering.

Also, to prevent water from stagnating in the soil, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, fertilizing is carried out once every 10 days. To do this, use a complex liquid fertilizer suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, fertilizing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, stop completely.. Fertilizer application is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

They begin to fertilize the soil for amaryllis when flower stalks appear from the bulb in the spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the leaves form and flowering ends. This species grows leaves after the formation of a peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so there is no need to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to regularly wipe the leaves or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For normal development and abundant flowering amaryllis requires special care rules during the period of growth and dormancy. Amaryllis is also a poisonous plant and should only be handled with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous indoor plant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But don’t rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, you just need to follow precautions.

Periods of growth and rest

Let's look at how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a regular houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After amaryllis blooms, you need to remove the flower stalks. There is no need to touch the leaves - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to be provided with a period of rest.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop fertilizing. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. The leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they need to be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September and early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and stored in a dark, dry and cool (13–15° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there are no green leaves left on the plant and will last 6-8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and begins to be watered regularly. From this point on, the period of growth begins again.

Before and after flowering, keep the soil moist and rotate the plant constantly to promote even growth. During this period, the optimal temperature will be 13–18° C. 4–8 weeks after watering is resumed, the amaryllis should bloom.

Amaryllis blooming

The flowering period of amaryllis occurs in late autumn or early winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which there is an inflorescence. Usually during flowering the plant has no leaves. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows along with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without damaging the plant. Adult specimens with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm are suitable for this. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in summer time, you need to create an additional period of rest for him. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded place, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of a peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on the leaves.

As a rule, the disease is caused by too humid air and waterlogging of the soil.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so the diseased plant must be replanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant may become infected with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and become deformed.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. Treatment with insecticides, which must be carried out several times, will help in pest control.

Problems

• The flowers turn pale. Reason: direct sunlight;
• The flowers darken or even turn black. Reason: damp air and low room temperature;
• The leaves become pale and the flowers droop. Reason: insufficient watering;
• Leaves turn yellow. Causes: damage by thrips or aphids, waterlogging of the soil;
• The bulbs are getting smaller. Reasons: a large number of children, lack of lighting, abundant flowering;
• The plant does not bloom. Reasons: improper care, too short or no rest period, deep planting of the bulb, damage to the root system. The bulb will not have enough strength to release a peduncle if there is a lack of heat, light, fertile soil, drainage and sufficient watering. During the dormant period, the bulb accumulates strength for flowering.

Reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by pups separated from the mother bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the simplest and most common method. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during spring transplantation.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of planting the bulb, and the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom within 2–3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, labor-intensive and unreliable method. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another using a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only in the 7th year.

Transfer

Amaryllis belongs to perennial plants, so there is no need to replant it annually. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb cannot be buried above the previous soil level.

Amaryllis are usually replanted every 2–4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is explained by the fact that the bulb greatly decreases in size during flowering due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, select a pot with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm on all sides– in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and the children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be replanted– the roots will grow in 4–6 weeks. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

Until recently, the Amaryllis belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna– a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Thanks to its compact size and amazingly beautiful flowers, this species is common in the collections of flowering plant lovers almost everywhere. Wild flowers have pink, red and even purple tints.

This species gave rise to many varieties, distinguished by unusual coloring, flower size and petal shape. There are large-flowered, variegated and narrow-petaled varieties. Here are some popular amaryllis varieties:

• “Exotica” is a large-flowered variety;
• "Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
• "Exotic Star" is a narrow-petalled variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in the large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. Not common in indoor floriculture.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

When and whether to cut off the leaves and roots of the onion? What are the storage conditions and when will it be ready to bloom again? Who knows?

After flowering, remove only the flower stalks. Be sure to leave the leaves and feed them a couple of times, because the bulb has expended a lot of energy on flowering. Then begin reducing watering to allow the leaves to die off. But not everyone has a period of rest. My amaryllis, bought last winter, flourished magnificently last year, producing three arrows, I tried to put it to sleep all summer, I didn’t want to. He gave birth to three children and now stands again with two arrows with flowers.

Tell me what to do with amaryllis in the fall.

Pay attention to the bulb, if it becomes exhausted after flowering and becomes loose, try to make it rest. And also, do not plant the bulb in a large pot, otherwise it will definitely not bloom. Good luck.

There is no need to cut off the roots. And the leaves should ideally dry out on their own. While they are green, they supply nutrients to the bulb. Stop watering and place in a cool place. No need to dig out of the pot

Dormant period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. The pot with the bulb is placed in a cool, dark place indoors. The rest period should last 6-8 weeks from February. Then the bulb can be removed from the pot, the “babies” are separated and the mother plant is replanted.

after it has bloomed, you must first of all grow a good root, like at least 4 pairs of leaves, before sending it to rest, otherwise you will not see a trace of flowering, healthy roots are not cut off, but on the contrary, they are protected when replanting

It's unlikely you have amaryllis. Most likely, this is a hybrid hippeastrum. After flowering it has a period of growth. You need to transplant the plant into a larger pot, regularly water and feed it. In the summer it is better to plant it in open ground. The rest period begins in September-October.

If you force the bulb to retire, you can forget about flowering for several years.

water less often the leaves will begin to die by spring increase watering and feed

there is no need to cut off the leaves... now the bulb needs feeding - the energy has been spent on flowering... let the leaves grow, and put them to sleep in the fall...

Hi all! Amaryllis flower care at home with photos and videos in this material. Amaryllis is a plant that every experienced gardener is familiar with. Its popularity is due to its very beautiful flowers. In addition, the plant is unpretentious, despite its origin.

What you will learn from this material:

Amaryllis care at home with photos and videos

There is nothing complicated about caring for amaryllis at home. Even beginners can handle this. Therefore, if you want to regularly admire a flowering plant without spending a lot of time and effort on care, amaryllis is the most suitable option.

History and description of the flower

Amaryllis is one of the genera in the amaryllidaceae family. For a long time it was believed that the genus has only one representative - Amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna). But currently, botanists identify several more representatives, such as Amaryllis paradisicola and Amaryllis sarniensis, etc.

The homeland of Amaryllis belladonna is the African south, more precisely the Olifants River Valley in the Cape Province of South Africa. The geography of distribution of new species is very extensive - South Africa, Australia, Japan and even the island of Jersey in the English Channel.

The genus was first identified by the Swedish systematizer Carl Linnaeus in 1753. He gave the flower a name. Until this point, it was believed that amaryllis was a type of lily. It was known as lionnarcissus. But Linnaeus made a mistake by classifying all kinds of hippeastrums as amaryllis. The confusion continues to this day.

The flower owes its name to the work of Virgil. In his poems there is a beautiful shepherdess named Amaryllis or Amaryllis. Translated from Greek, this name means “sparkling.”

Amaryllis is often called March or Jersey lily.

Amaryllis is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are dark green, smooth, long and narrow, somewhat reminiscent of a belt. Placed in two rows.

Before flowering, the plant throws out a special peduncle - a hollow “tube” 40–60 cm high (maximum 2–3 pieces). Only then do the leaves appear. In nature, this happens at the end of summer or early autumn. Depending on the variety, there are from 2 to 12 flowers on each peduncle. The entire inflorescence resembles an umbrella.

Wild amaryllis are characterized by all shades of pink and reddish, as well as white. Purple, orange, yellow, greenish flowers And combined options. In appearance, an amaryllis flower is a cross between a lily and a gramophone bell with a diameter of 10–12 cm.

The amaryllis bulb is poisonous - it contains the alkaloid lycorine. Sensitive skin may experience irritation even from simply touching the bulb. Therefore, before planting and transplanting, do not forget to wear rubber gloves, and wash your hands thoroughly at the end of the procedure. Also, take care to keep the flower out of the reach of children and pets.

Amaryllis varieties

Modern varieties of amaryllis, which can be freely purchased in stores, are the result of selection. The Amaryllis belladonna bulb is a real rarity, the dream of all experienced gardeners.

The efforts of breeders are aimed at the following:

• Bring out as large double and non-double flowers as possible. The most beautiful terry hybrids include Celica, Snow Queen, Pink Nymph, Macarena, Promise, Merry Christmas. Non-double varieties are no less spectacular - Black Pearl, Benfica, Exotic, Moonlight, Lemon-Lime, Matterhorn, Rosalie.
• Find new shades and their combinations. Charisma, Clown, Prelude, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz and many others look amazing.
• Creation of flowers of new forms. The latest trend is amaryllis with very narrow petals, the edges of which are slightly ruffled. These varieties include Lima, Night Star, La Paz, Evergreen, Santana.

But classic varieties of amaryllis are no less popular than fashion news. We can distinguish Durban (carmine flowers with a white center), Parker (purple-pink with a yellow center), Gorgeous Pink (pink-white petals), Hathor (snow-white with a yellowish center), Maxima (hot pink, with a magnificent aroma).

Classic varieties of amaryllis in the photo

Durban - an extremely common variety

Maxima has an amazing aroma

Parker has an unusually beautiful pink color

Almost snow-white flowers Hathora will fit into any interior

Amaryllis and hippeastrum - eternal confusion

Hippeastrum, like amaryllis, is part of the Amaryllidaceae family. But the genus of Hippeastrum is much more numerous - there are about 90 species in nature alone. And if you add selective varieties, you get about two thousand. Even sellers in specialized stores often get confused about these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum - table

Amaryllis
Hippeastrum
Flowering period
End of August and beginning of September.
End of February and beginning of March.
Motherland
Africa.
South America.
Aroma
Strongly expressed.
Practically absent.
Flower diameter
10–12 cm.
6–8 cm.
Number of colors
Up to 12 pieces. In most cases 4–6.
Maximum 6 flowers. Most often 2–4.
Coloring of natural varieties
Shades of pink - from almost white to almost red.
Red, orange, pink, white, yellow, greenish, purple and various combinations thereof.
Leaves in the process of flowering
None. Appear after the peduncle.
They remain in place.
Peduncle
Quite dense and without voids. It's a little purple.
Hollow tube. It cracks easily when pressed. Mixed with the green color is a grayish-brown tint.
Peduncle length
40–60 cm.
60–70 cm.
Bulb shape
Pear-shaped.
Round or slightly elongated at the bottom, slightly flattened on the sides.
Scales
Ash-gray, with a slight “fringe” along the upper edge.
They are very reminiscent of ordinary onions, only white or greenish in color.

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

Suitable conditions for growing amaryllis at home differ markedly depending on whether the plant is in an active growth phase or has entered a dormant period.

It should be noted right away that amaryllis will not tolerate temperatures even close to zero, much less sub-zero. Conditions that imitate the tropics and subtropics - constant humid heat - are also not suitable for it.

Suitable conditions for the plant depending on the phase of development - table

Conditions
Growth phase
Rest period
Pot location
Window facing southwest or southeast. A south window will also do, but you will have to cover the plant from direct sunlight during the day so that the leaves do not turn pale or fade.
A dark and cool place with a constant temperature and good ventilation.
Lighting
Ideally, bright but diffused light is needed for 14–16 hours a day. The leaves and especially the peduncle tend to reach towards the sun, so periodically they will have to be returned to a vertical position by turning the pot. Or you can make supports for the plant.
Not required.
Humidity
The plant is moisture-loving. For watering, use one that has been left at room temperature for 6–8 hours. The soil should not dry out, but you should not over-water the flower either. It requires more water only during the flowering period. Stagnation of moisture leads to the leaves withering and losing color, and the roots rotting. Spraying the leaves has virtually no effect on the flower. But before flowering, you can slightly moisten the buds. Maintain air humidity at 60–80%.
Watering is completely eliminated. Only soil spraying is carried out. Watering begins again only when the new peduncle grows to 10–12 cm. The optimal humidity in the storage area is 60–70%, without sudden changes.
Ventilation
The room should be well ventilated, but avoid strong drafts.
Temperature
Approximately 22–24ºС during the day and about 18ºС at night. The plant does not like sudden temperature changes.
Constant temperature 10–12ºС.

Planting a flower at home

Choosing a pot

Amaryllis requires a small but stable pot

Planting amaryllis begins with choosing a pot - it must be quite massive and stable. The flower is quite unstable due to its widely spread rosette of leaves and high peduncle. It can easily be knocked over with one careless movement, and sometimes a sharp gust of wind is enough.

The diameter of the pot depends on the size of the bulb. It should take up almost everything inner space. There is no more than 3–5 cm between the walls and the bulb. However, the deeper the pot, the better, because amaryllis has a fairly well-developed root system. The best option is a pot that is wide at the bottom and tapering at the top.

Regarding the material from which the pot is made, the best choice- unglazed ceramics. This container provides ventilation and oxygen supply to the roots.

Soil selection

If you plant several amaryllis in one large container, the distance between the bulbs is at least 10 cm.

The next important issue is soil. You can purchase any soil intended for bulbs in a specialized store, but experienced gardeners prefer to prepare the mixture themselves. Any soil is pre-sterilized by pouring boiling water over it or placing it in the freezer.

A self-prepared one might look like this:

A drainage layer at least 2–3 cm thick is required. Use expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, brick chips or small ceramic shards. Scatter them, in slightly smaller quantities, over the surface of the soil after planting. It is good if a large drainage hole is made in the bottom.

Cover the drainage layer with the same layer of sand. This is additional protection against stagnation of water and subsequent rotting of the roots.

Step by step process

Select only healthy specimens for planting

For planting, select strong, smooth bulbs with developed roots. There should be no dents, cracks, scratches, stains, or signs of mold or rot. Also, do not plant bulbs that emit an unpleasant sweetish odor.

Master class on planting - video

Transplanting a plant

The plants are replanted at the end of the flowering period, when the peduncle is completely dry. No need for annual transplant - ohnot carried out at intervals of 3–4 years. Or earlier, if you see that the bulb’s pot has become clearly small.

However, it is advisable to remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick every year and add fresh soil to the previous level.

• 4–5 days before the planned transplantation, daily abundant watering is carried out.
• Then the plant is removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, carefully shaken off and the roots are examined. All rotted and dried ones are cut off with a sharp knife, the cut is sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.
• The bulb is cleaned of rotten scales, the daughter bulbs are carefully separated and also cleaned. They then need to be planted in separate pots. Very small daughter bulbs (several mm in diameter) can be left if you want to breed this particular variety. But it is likely that the amaryllis will not bloom - all the nutrition will go to the embryos.

Before planting the old bulb in a new pot, feed the plant by sticking 2-3 sticks of long-acting mineral fertilizer into the soil under the roots (the most common option is Agricola).

Plant care

Watering and fertilizing

Amaryllis should be watered sparingly during its growth phase. Watering begins when the peduncle grows to 10 cm in height. The plant loves moisture, but categorically does not tolerate stagnation of water. It is better to forget about watering than to overdo it. The best option is abundant watering every 3–4 days. Another important point- water should not fall directly on the bulb. Water only the soil surrounding it.

During wintering, the plant needs much less water. Spray the soil once every 7–10 days.

Amaryllis is fertilized once every 12–14 days, starting from the moment the buds form. During flowering, the interval between fertilizing is reduced to 5–7 days. Any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is suitable - Emerald, BIO VITA, Bona Forte, Kemira Lux, Ideal, Agricola, Ava, Living World, Rainbow, Reasil, Florist, Bud, Master Color, Power of Life. Give preference to those products that contain more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen.

You can also use natural organic fertilizers - a solution of fresh manure (1.5 cups per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1/3 cup per 10 liters).

Stop feeding when the leaves completely wither. When at rest, the plant is not fed.

Caring for amaryllis - video

Flowering period

In nature, amaryllis blooms in late summer or early autumn. But you can make sure that the flowers appear by a certain point; to do this, you need to change the date of planting the bulbs. If they are healthy and well developed, intensive growth begins immediately after planting. After 7–8 weeks, flower stalks will form. If there are more than two, it is better to cut off the excess ones at the base. Excessive flowering will exhaust the bulb too much.

After the first flower blooms, the peduncle can be safely placed in a vase. If you change the water in it daily, the flowers will last 16–20 days. The uncut peduncle blooms for about the same amount of time, but in the first case the bulb is depleted much less. The flowering period will be maximum if both the vase and the pot are placed in a cool place, protected from sunlight.

How to make amaryllis bloom

Only proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy its beautiful flowers.

Why doesn't amaryllis bloom? Most often for one of the following reasons:

• The pot is too spacious. The onion spends all its energy on the education of its “children.” Therefore, she rightly believes that there is no need to reproduce by seeds.
• The bulb is buried too deep in the ground. This prevents the normal development of the peduncle.
• Lack of nutrients. The bulb is greatly depleted during flowering. If you have not accumulated enough necessary microelements during the previous growth phase, do not expect flowers.
• Lack of lighting and heat. Amaryllis is extremely heat- and light-loving. This is logical, considering where his homeland is. Fluorescent lamps can partially overcome the problem.
• Many roots have rotted or dried out. In this case root system unable to provide the bulb with proper nutrition even if the necessary substances are present in the soil.
• Missed rest period. After the flowers and peduncle dried out, the plant was not allowed to rest.
• The bulbs are too young. Do not expect that only the transplanted children will immediately begin to bloom. This will happen in 3–4 years. And if you planted seeds, flowers will appear in 7–8 years.
• Bulb damage by pests.

Having determined which negative factor is interfering with your plant, eliminate it.

Dormant period - how to “wake up” a plant after wintering

The dormant period begins only after the last leaf turns yellow and lasts at least 8–10 weeks. It is better to let the plants rest for about three months.

• When the flowers begin to fade, reduce watering and fertilizing. By the time the peduncle dries completely (at the end of October or beginning of November), they are reduced to zero.
• Dried leaves are removed. But you shouldn’t forcefully cut off the entire “crown” - the nutrients from the leaves will go into the bulb.
• Then the pot is placed in a cool, dry, dark place. Since the roots are preserved, the soil is sprayed with water from a spray bottle once every 1.5 weeks.

A less common option is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and store them in cardboard boxes or wooden boxes. In this case, there is a risk of drying out the roots.

Using a little trick, you can make amaryllis bloom twice a year - on time, and also at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring. But it is important to maintain a dormant period so that the bulb accumulates enough strength for future flowering. Give her a rest until at least the beginning of January.

About 2.5 months before the desired date, remove the pots with bulbs that are in the dormant period, move them to a bright and warm room and water a little. Keep the soil slightly moist. This is enough for the active growth phase to begin.

Diseases and pests

With proper care and a sufficiently long dormant period, amaryllis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. But if this does happen, you need to be able to recognize the symptoms in time and deal with the problem.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis - table

Disease or pest
Symptoms
Treatment
Red burn (stagonosporosis)
Small red spots on the bulb or a border of the same color along the upper edge of the scales.
Keep the onion for 1.5–2 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Grease the largest stains with brilliant green. After 5–7 days you can plant again.
Rot and mold
Red-gray spots on the surface of the bulb. It becomes soft to the touch and emits an unpleasant sweetish odor. Reddish-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves.
Cut off affected leaves at the base. Spray the bulb with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux mixture (5 ml per liter of water) or with XOM and Fundazol, diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Spider mite
The leaves seem to be covered with cobwebs. Then they wither and dry out.
Spray with acaricides, such as Floromite, Neoron, Nisoran.
Onion mite
Eats bulb tissue. The plant develops poorly and practically does not bloom. If flowers appear, they are deformed. The leaves turn yellow and die quickly.
Remove the bulbs from the pot and immerse them in water heated to a temperature of 35–40ºC for 5–7 minutes. Then treat with Keltan and Rogor. A radical option is to place the onion in a hermetically sealed container and set fire to a tiny piece of sulfur in it. Wait 2 hours, open the container. Leave the bulb in the fresh air for a day.
Trips
Tiny brown dots on leaves in large numbers.
Collect all visible pests, wash the plant, and replant it in a disinfected pot with sterilized soil. Treat with Agravertin, .
Mealybug
Deposits on the leaves and at the roots, resembling small pellets of cotton wool, as well as a continuous layer of fluff, glued with whitish mucus, under the leaves.
Wipe the leaves with a sponge moistened with clean water. If this does not help, use insecticides (Admiral, Iskra, Fitoverm).
Amaryllis mealybug
Its feces appear under the scales, damaging the bulb. They resemble soot.
Apply the above insecticides.
Shchitovka
Dense scales on the inside of the leaves. Color varies from light beige to chocolate brown. Next to them is a sticky discharge similar to sugar syrup.
Wipe the leaves with foam obtained from whipped warm water laundry soap shavings.
Aphid
The leaves are turning yellow.
Collect visible pests by hand. Wipe the leaves with green potassium soap foam or 20% ethyl alcohol.
springtail
Small translucent worms are visible on the soil surface.
Reduce watering. Remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick and replace it with a new one.

The most common pests and disease symptoms - photo gallery

This is how rot appears on leaves

Bulbs affected by stagnospora

Onion mites are extremely difficult to detect until significant damage has been caused to the bulb.

Mealybug is one of the most common pests

Springtails are quite easy to see, but difficult to get rid of.

Spider mite weaves leaves

Amaryllis propagation

There are three possible ways to propagate amaryllis - by seeds, by dividing the bulb and by children (daughter bulbs).

Use of seeds

You will have to wait quite a long time for results. Plants obtained in this way do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom 7–8 years after planting, but such bulbs age more slowly. With proper care, they will grow with you for more than 20 years.

• To obtain seeds, the pistil is pollinated with pollen from the stamens of another amaryllis using a soft bristle brush. A “box” forms on the peduncle. When it cracks, the seeds are fully ripe. Usually the whole process takes about a month.
• Seeds are planted almost immediately. With each lost day, germination rate decreases. The soil in the pot should be well moistened.
• Then the container with the seeds is put in a warm place, covering it from direct sunlight.
• Shoots will appear in about 25–30 days. After another 2-3 months they are planted in separate pots.

Video: planting amaryllis seeds

Dividing the bulb

The method is extremely risky - there is a very high probability of destroying the plant.

• A healthy onion is cut into 4–8 pieces with a sharp knife. The main thing is that on each of them a part of the bottom and 1-2 scales are preserved. The sections are sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.
• Then the pieces are planted in sand and kept warm for a month at a temperature of 25–27 ºС.
• After this time, the first sheet should appear. When another one grows, the plants are planted in soil for bulbs, mixed with sand in a 1:1 ratio.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

The easiest and safest way. And you won’t have to wait long for the flowers - the amaryllis will get strong enough in 2–3 years. The process of planting daughter bulbs is practically no different from planting a new bulb purchased in a store. The only difference is that the pot should be a little larger. Daughter bulbs grow quickly and reach the size of the mother bulb in just 2 years.

• The bulbs should be carefully separated from the mother plant, placed in a prepared pot with drained soil with the bottom down, slightly pressed into the ground and topped up with soil so that the bulb sticks halfway above the surface.
• Next, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. New plants definitely need light and warmth.
• But they do not need a period of rest. Therefore, watering and fertilizing are carried out regularly. The first time amaryllis will rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis is an exotic plant that you can easily have in your home. If you follow simple care rules, it will constantly delight you with beautiful flowers.

Good evening, dear gardeners and indoor plant lovers. Two weeks ago I was at the market, accidentally met my grandfather, he was selling some strange bulbs with leaves and soil in a bag. I asked what kind of plant it was), and he replied that he didn’t know, but it was very beautiful. Said he dug it from his garden. Well, I bought two onions for one buck. I planted it in my garden, in open ground. Less than two weeks later, the flowers bloomed. It turned out to be amaryllis. And bad luck... I always thought it was a houseplant; my grandmother had one in a pot all her life, but it very, very rarely bloomed. I started looking for information on the Internet. Maybe some of you will find it useful too?

I’ll add later: in the comments they wrote that this is not amaryllis, but hipperastrum (I don’t even know))) should I be happy or what)))

This flower has been familiar to me since childhood. Out of habit, we call it amaryllis, although it is the most common non-varietal hipperastrum. We never part with it; it is our family heirloom. I'm sure it can be found in many other collections.

Amaryllis is a bulbous plant that blooms very beautifully. Its fragrant and large flowers can be different: white, red, pink, striped or plain in color. On a high peduncle, inflorescences are arranged singly or in several pieces. The flowers are very beautiful, but small and have no scent at all. All it needs is limited placement; it grows well on windows of eastern, southern, and western orientation. It is important for him to sufficient quantity receive sunlight, in such conditions this hipperastrum actively blooms and does not suffer from red burn of the bulb. Watering is moderate; between waterings the top layer of the earthen clod is allowed to dry.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring, in a mixture for amaryllis. This variety is good to plant in groups of several in a pot, then the flowering will be very long. For planting, you should not choose too spacious a container - then the plant produces a lot of babies and blooms poorly.

Question: Is it possible to grow amaryllis on garden plot in open ground?

Answer: In summer, amaryllis can be kept in the garden outdoors in a flowerpot or tub. You can plant it on the site, taking it out of the pot, or you can dig it directly into the pot. True, in the fall it will be necessary to change the soil, since over the summer all kinds of living creatures that are undesirable for the pot will come into the pot. potted plant when kept in winter, because for lack of other food it will begin to eat the roots and the bulb itself. And you shouldn’t injure the roots by replanting again, otherwise flowering will be postponed indefinitely. Amaryllis cannot overwinter in open ground, even with shelter.

Question: Why do the leaves dry out? And to replace them new ones grow right away...

(This is the second time this has happened to me in the short period of its existence.)

Answer: So this is the normal development cycle of plants, be it an indoor plant or growing outdoors! You’re not surprised by the annual autumn leaf fall, so why such a reaction to the change of leaves in indoor plants? Plant leaves do not last forever; new ones grow to replace old ones.

If the conditions are not suitable for the indoor plant, this process may occur faster and more often than necessary, and may become irreversible. Then the plant dies. Don't let it get to that point :-)

Question: The onion has no roots. How to root it?

Answer: Take regular soil from the site or buy universal soil, freeze for 6-8 hours, warm the soil to room temperature (+20-25°C), add the drug Kornevin to stimulate root growth. Add a 3-5 cm layer of coarse calcined sand to the bottom of the hole. Powder the bottom of the bulb with Kornevin and plant.

The height of the pot should be greater than its diameter, and the distance from the edge of the pot to the bulb should be 2-3 cm. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the pot; the pot must have a drainage hole. Do not bury the bulb; it should protrude a third above the soil surface. Water moderately, do not over-moisten the soil, otherwise the bulb will rot instead of rooting.

Question: How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Answer: Amaryllis can be easily distinguished from hippeastrum by the structure of the peduncle - in hippeastrum it is hollow (empty inside) and bears 1-6 large flowers, and in amaryllis the peduncle is completed (filled from the inside) and bears 8-12 large, drooping flowers . This is the surest distinguishing feature.

Leaves are formed after the flower arrow emerges or simultaneously, but not before.
Another distinctive feature is that hippeastrum, unlike amaryllis, forms daughter bulbs irregularly.

Question: My bulb lost a lot of weight after flowering. How can I help her restore her volume?

Answer: An amaryllis bulb will only be able to “gain weight” in the next growing season if it is not allowed to bloom and the flower shoot is removed. And in the fall, do not cut off the green leaves, but wait until they turn yellow and return the nutrition spent on them to the bulb. Don't forget about feeding during the season.

In the garden, a well-lit place, for example an unshaded southern side, is best suited for amaryllis, since these are light-loving and heat-loving plants. The soil should be of light mechanical composition, that is, sandy or sandy loam; rich in humus with a high humus content is also suitable. Amaryllis prefers open, well-lit places and direct sunlight. Amaryllis is afraid of frost, so for the winter the bulbs need to be dug up and stored indoors, planted again with the onset of stable warmth. Amaryllis feels great in a well-lit place, loves a lot of light and really does not like coolness with drafts. Amaryllis can grow in light partial shade, but then the growth of the plant slows down.

Reproduction: amaryllis is propagated by regrown daughter bulbs - children that can be separated from the mother when spring transplant. Already in the 2-3rd year, flowers appear from the daughter bulbs. If you want there to be many flowering arrows in one flower pot, the solution is simple - do not separate the children from the mother.

Feeding:

• spring-summer - once every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers;
• winter-autumn - without feeding.

Pruning: no need.

Care features: The plant is poisonous!

Transplantation: Amaryllis are usually planted in small flower pots in November-December. But with the same success you can plant in March-February. At the bottom of the pot, organize drainage from broken shards and only after that add a soil mixture consisting of turf, leaf, peat soil and sand (1: 2: 1: 1). Before planting, it is very useful to soak the bulb in a Humisol solution, and then plant it in a pot, burying it halfway into the ground. It is best to place the pot on the windowsill of a south-eastern or south-western window, since amaryllis is a light-loving plant. And don’t forget to water the planted bulb.

Small bulbs are planted together. Feed once every two weeks. After the leaves dry out, watering is almost stopped. Withered leaves are not cut off. Amaryllis are replanted every 4-5 years.

There is nothing easier than growing amaryllis: just a bulb, water and sunlight.

The bulbs have virtually no dormant period. After the plant has flowered, there is no need to do anything with the vegetative part and bulbs. It is enough to simply remove the peduncles without affecting the leaves, as they will replenish the supply of nutrients in the bulb. After flowering, the bulb should be grown for 5-6 months.

As a houseplant, amaryllis is grown until early summer, but one should not forget about regular watering, and use standard fertilizers as top dressing. When the danger of frost has passed, the plant can be transplanted outside to a dark place.

To force amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs must go through a dormant period.
In August, you can stop feeding and gradually reduce the amount of water given. After three weeks, stop watering completely. Allow the leaves to yellow and wilt on their own. Cut the leaves at a height of 5 centimeters from the bulb.

In September or early October, plant the bulbs in a pot and place them in a cool (13-15°C), dark and dry place for 6-8 weeks. As long as at least one leaf remains green on the plant, it does not enter a dormant period. It is enough to put a pot of bulbs in the basement and forget about it for 2 months.

In November or later, place a pot of amaryllis in a lighted area, water it, and the vegetative cycle will begin all over again.

The soil should be damp, but under no circumstances wet. After flowering begins, do not let the soil dry out too much. Remember to rotate the pot daily to ensure the leaves grow evenly. The ideal temperature is 13-18°C. Higher temperatures weaken growth. Be careful: flowering should begin 4-8 weeks after watering the bulbs is resumed.

Possible reasons for lack of flowering: Immature or small bulbs, too short dormant period, very high temperatures during the growing season. It should be noted that the longer you have the bulb and the larger its size, the more flowers and leaves it produces, so it makes sense to store and use them year after year.

Reproduction

All bulbous plants: hippeastrum, amaryllis, lilies, tulips and others, reproduce by daughter bulbs, which are separated from the mother plant during transplantation. This is the easiest way to propagate such plants. Planting daughter bulbs is no different from planting the mother plant during transplantation: the composition of the soil and the height of planting the bulb are the same. The pot should be taken based on an adult onion. Young plants grow quickly and reach the size of the mother bulb within two years, and amaryllis often do not need to be replanted.

The second way to propagate amaryllis is by seeds. To obtain seeds, amaryllis flowers must be cross-pollinated with a brush and allowed to ripen. The process of seed ripening lasts about a month, after which they are immediately planted in the ground and watered well to keep the ground moist. In about a month, shoots will appear. When the plants grow, they are planted one at a time in small pots.

When propagated by daughter bulbs, a flowering plant can be obtained in the third year; when grown from seeds, amaryllis blooms in the 7th year.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out after flowering has finished and the flower shoot has dried. The soil for planting is made up of equal parts of leaf, turf, humus soil and sand or purchased at a store for bulbous plants. The bulb, which was removed from the old pot, is freed from rotten roots and dry scales, from the children that form in the axils of the outer scales of the mother plant. The bulb prepared in this way is planted one at a time in a pot so that at least 1/3 of the height of the bulb is on the surface. You can leave it on the surface up to half the height of the bulb. The pot must have a layer of drainage, and it is advisable to pour a layer of sand under the bottom of the bulb. Amaryllis does not tolerate stagnant water. It is much safer to forget to water this flower than to flood it. The pot should not be too big. From the edge of the bulb to the edge of the pot, it is enough to have about 3 cm of free space.

Pests and diseases

Sometimes amaryllis can become affected by a fungal infection: red spots or stripes appear on the stem, flowers and bulbs. To prevent this disease, it is recommended to wet the plant as little as possible when watering. If the amaryllis does get sick, you can use special preparations: Bordeaux mixture, HOM or foundationazole.

So where is the best place to plant amaryllis?

Option one is open ground. Choose the best place for amaryllis somewhere in a sunny place, among the stones. Amaryllis looks very beautiful against the background of low-growing conifers.
The “disadvantage” of such a planting is its strong dependence on weather conditions. In the event of late spring and early autumn frosts, heat-loving amaryllis will have to be carefully covered. And you will need to dig up its bulbs in the fall no later than the end of September (after all, in October the top layer of soil in the middle zone already begins to freeze slightly). And if your amaryllis just bloomed in September, then the bulb simply will not have time to ripen normally before digging it up.
The “plus” of planting amaryllis in open ground is a stunning sight when, against the backdrop of falling leaves and autumn flowers, such a miracle suddenly appears from underground!

Option two is to plant amaryllis in a pot or any other container. You can install it on the balcony or directly in the flowerbed.
By the way, no matter where you plant amaryllis, remember that you need to plant its bulb quite shallow. The top of the amaryllis bulb should be just visible above the soil surface (if you are growing amaryllis in a pot), or should be completely covered thin layer soil (if you plant amaryllis in open ground).
For the winter, it is better to put amaryllis bulbs on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (along with gladioli); They are stored well and hardly dry out by spring.

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a period of dormancy, leaves of amaryllis and hippeastrum begin to grow again, and the formation of peduncles and buds occurs.

Listen to the article

Preparing amaryllis for the dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. For hippeastrums, the dormant period begins after the plant has flowered, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in autumn or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a period of rest. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum in the ground for the summer, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the amaryllis bulb is not immediately dug up after flowering; you must first allow the leaves to do the important job of supplying the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and give it the opportunity to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, giving all their strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. Once the leaves have completely yellowed and died, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering amaryllis and hippeastrum

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering the amaryllis must be dug up and replanted in a pot before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to replant these flowers once every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily withstand frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum indoors for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature within 10-18°C.

Temperature regime for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

When at rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is about 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper value is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may hurt, and if it drops below 5°C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5°C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. A higher temperature than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, and it is complete rest that guarantees the establishment of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, you only need to water the bulb so that it does not dry out - once every month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recuperation period is over when a flower shoot appears on the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and fertilizing should begin only after this arrow extends to 10 cm. From this moment a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

It blooms exclusively in the second half of winter; it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for maintaining this flower. There are few such rules, but they still exist, and this is especially true in the winter. To understand some of the features of such seasonal ones, let's step by step follow the whole life cycle plants.

1. Germination of the bulb begins with the appearance of thick, light-colored roots on its bottom.
2. After rooting, active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
3. Once the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form at its top and their alternate (sometimes simultaneous) opening occurs, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
4. At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
5. Starting from mid-September and until spring, amaryllis begins a so-called dormant period.

Many lovers of growing indoor plants are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter “hibernation.” Let's look at what should be done and how.

Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for the flower.

Condition during wintering

As mentioned above, amaryllis has a period of active growing season for 7-8 months. During this time, the plant bulb devotes all its strength, first to growing a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to flowering for two to three weeks, after which all remaining strength goes into the growth of fairly powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a growing season “marathon” the plant needs some period of time to recuperate.

A period of rest is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs for subsequent cycles of growth and flowering.

Exactly like this The dormant period begins for amaryllis in the second half of September, when the plant sheds all its growing foliage, slows down the growing season and prepares for wintering.

The plant itself cannot completely stop the internal growth processes, so it needs the help of a grower.

How to store?

Once we notice that the plant's foliage begins to lose its usually distinct dark green color and wilt, the amaryllis must immediately be helped to enter the dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within +2+15 degrees. Another necessary condition should be the absence of light and low air humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to enter the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose the ability to bloom (read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to force it to produce buds) . To do this, you need to take the following measures:

1. gradually stop or minimize watering the flower as much as possible;
2. when all the leaves have turned yellow and drooped, they must be completely cut off and the bulb moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to note a very common mistake made by amateur gardeners who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, along with the pot. This is strongly not recommended. After complete wilting of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already written a little higher, be completely removed.

After that The amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil. Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this same planting soil, simultaneously checking whether there are any damaged or dried parts of the root on the bulb and, if any, remove them using small scissors.

After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover and gain strength for the next growing season within 3-5 months.

To avoid damage to a dormant bulb by infections or pests, you can Before sending the bulb to rest, wash it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then dry it. Also, as an additional precaution, you can wrap each onion with napkins or ordinary toilet paper.

1. First of all, it is necessary to isolate damaged specimens of amaryllis bulbs from undamaged ones so that the fungus or infection does not spread to the latter.
2. Bulbs damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and treated a second time with a mild manganese solution or with specialized products intended for disinfecting bulbous plants.
3. After treatment with such disinfectants, it is imperative to allow the bulbs to dry thoroughly.
4. To re-wrap treated amaryllis bulbs, you should never use the same paper in which they were previously wrapped. You should take fresh, clean napkins or clean layers of toilet paper.
5. After all the preparations have been carried out, the amaryllis bulbs should be sent back for storage in a dark and cool room.

Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower.

They are not only an example of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. If properly maintained in winter conditions, a bulb planted in a flower pot in mid-February will be able to please its owner with extraordinary beautiful blooms by the end of March.

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In the rather cold Russian climate blooming in winter Amaryllis is one of my favorite indoor plants. Its modern varieties come in a wide variety of shades - from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green, there are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers.

These bulbous plants are among the best for home forcing, which even the most unprepared amateurs can do. In most regions of Russia, amaryllis, whose homeland is South America, is able to winter only in room conditions and has a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February. Proper organization of rest for amaryllis is the main secret of successful forcing.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy. At the end of August - September, it is necessary to abandon fertilizing and slowly begin to reduce watering until it stops completely at the end of October - November. The amaryllis will gradually begin to shed its leaves, and by the end of autumn they should all naturally die back. There is no need to specifically trim yellowing leaves, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, making the necessary reserve for subsequent flowering. Sometimes one or two unwilted leaves remain for quite a long time. They are carefully bent or cut off at the base of the bulb to save space during storage - for example, on racks in a cool pantry, a heated greenhouse or winter garden, in a warm garage, where the temperature in winter does not drop below zero.

How to store amaryllis during the dormant period. In a dormant state, the bulbs usually keep most of the skeletal and largest roots alive, so they need to be lightly watered occasionally (every 15-20 days). Pots with resting bulbs are kept in a cool, dry place at a temperature of about +5...+12°C; they do not need light. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or loose in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values!

When does amaryllis usually bloom? At home, the normal flowering period for amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. But it often happens that amaryllis continue to bloom in April and even in May, especially large bulbs that give a second wave of flowering. You are quite capable of regulating this process and making amaryllis bloom, for example, on Valentine's Day or on March 8th. 7 to 10 weeks before the desired flowering date, bring the pots with rested bulbs into a warmer, brighter room and lightly water them. In the future, the frequency of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air and the condition of the earthen coma. By following these simple recommendations, you will be rewarded with abundant flowering of your pets every year.

How and when to replant amaryllis. It is advisable to replant amaryllis and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years and better in spring, approximately 3-5 weeks after flowering. When planting and replanting, the root system is not cut off, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the children that often appear on the bulbs and plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. With proper care, children begin to bloom in about the third or fourth year. When replanting, the diameter of the pot is increased slightly, since amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster in a “tight” container. You can read more about the proper maintenance and transplantation of amaryllis bulbs in my article.

Recommendations for those who are a little late in preparing amaryllis for dormancy. Most likely, most of the plants themselves “realized” that it was time to rest when the daylight began to wane significantly at the end of September - October, and it became noticeably colder in the rooms and on the window sills, especially at night. Such conditions are unsuitable for a vigorous growing season, so plants naturally shed some of their foliage in preparation for winter dormancy. If you also intuitively guessed that in cool conditions all plants need to be watered much less frequently and less abundantly, then you won’t have to do anything else. And turning on the central heating will probably completely dry out a couple more yellowing leaves. Then everything is simple: we stop watering the plants and after a few days we put them to rest in some cool and sufficiently dark room. As a last resort, a shaded corner of the coolest room is suitable, where your plants will sit for another two to three months, until February or March, until you decide that it is time for them to prepare for flowering. During storage, the leaves continue to die and your task is to occasionally remove them, as well as the black, dried outer scales of the bulbs, in order to maintain a neat appearance of the plants and prevent the bulbs from rotting when watering them is resumed.

One fundamental note– we are talking all this about plants that have reached 3-4 years old, have already entered or are ready for regular flowering. Younger plants grown from children should not be dried out and forcibly forced to shed their leaves, although in winter they will also have their own dormant period, during which new leaves stop growing and part of last year’s growth dies off. During this cool and relatively dark period, young plants simply need to be watered more rarely and moderately so as not to flood their root system.

Well, if the plant continues to grow rapidly, Has it thrown out one or two buds and is about to bloom? It’s okay, this option is also quite acceptable, although less desirable. The plant simply confused spring with autumn, especially if you continued to water and feed it intensively. Allow the amaryllis to bloom naturally, but just in case, slightly reduce the frequency and intensity of watering. And watch your plant. It is possible that you have already flooded the onion and this is its “swan song”.

If your plant develops well, its flower stalks reach normal height, the size of the buds and flowers does not cause concern, and flowering lasts long enough - 10-12 days, then you should not worry too much. It’s just that the dormant period for this plant will come a little later than usual. But next spring, alas, it most likely will not bloom.

It is much worse if several leaves suddenly completely stopped developing and during the summer never reached their natural length. This may signal some kind of plant disease, or trouble with the bulb itself. Secondary signs of poor condition of the bulb may be its softness, lethargy, lack of elasticity, or the presence of black or brown spots on the surface. It’s really bad if you notice the presence of rot on the surface or at the base, excess water in the pan after you have been away for a long time, or any insects fluttering around the plant. Sometimes the bulb tilts on its side or simply dangles on one or two remaining roots, although normally in amaryllis the root system is well developed and completely entwines the earthen ball.

In this case, it is urgent to carefully remove the bulb along with the earthen lump and inspect it. Depending on the condition of the root system and the bulb itself, decide on the need for an urgent transplant, some kind of resuscitation action, or just dry it slightly if the root system is a little waterlogged. In general, amaryllis, like all bulbous plants, can do without soil for quite a long time and, in case of emergency, they can easily lie down for a week or two in a cool, dark place until you have the opportunity to take a closer look at them and plant them according to all the rules of agricultural technology that I have already described in my article the Beautiful home flower Amaryllis.

If obvious traces of rot or other damage are found on the bulb, the first step is to assess the extent and depth of the damage. It often happens that the lesions are still on the surface of the bulb and it is enough to carefully remove them with a clean stationery knife or scalpel to a depth of 2-3 scales, or remove the affected scales along the entire diameter. Then the bulb must be treated with an effective fungicide, for example, the drug "Maxim", or at least a dark burgundy solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green, and then dried for 1-2 weeks in the shade or on a cool pantry shelf, checking periodically. This usually saves amaryllis from further development diseases and rot. When the problem is localized and defeated, the bulb is planted in fresh soil so that the affected area is slightly above soil level.

If the problem still remains, then resuscitation actions are continued until the source of the spread of the disease can be stopped. If the rot has affected the bottom of the bulb or affected several roots, part of the bottom along with the affected roots is carefully cut out and the wound is treated with a fungicide. And don't rush to board! Dry the onion well to prevent the disease from returning.

An even more difficult situation is created if the bulb has lost almost all its roots. As long as it doesn't rot from the inside, it can be saved! Treat the entire bulb with fungicide after removing all lesions. Next, thoroughly clean all affected areas and cavities and treat again with a disinfectant solution. Dry the bulb and store it in the pantry until February - March, until the life processes that accompany the exit from dormancy begin to awaken in it. It's even better if you plant it in a pot later - at the end of March or April. Then for sure. I recommend first planting the amaryllis in a clear, disposable 0.5 liter plastic cup in slightly damp vermiculite with a pinch of some root stimulant added. In such a container it is convenient to observe the development of roots. Vermiculite needs to be moistened extremely rarely, because a plastic glass practically does not evaporate moisture, and almost the entire hole on top is covered with an onion.

Before planting, it is also advisable to treat the bulb itself with a root formation stimulator or keep it in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, which has both a bactericidal and stimulating role. The newly planted plant should be placed in a bright and moderately warm place without direct sunlight. I have had cases where some bulbs did not want to grow roots for 6-8 months! True, this rarely happens. Therefore, do not despair, but wait patiently and you will be rewarded! If the bulb turns green and elastic in the light, it means that it will definitely survive and, sooner or later, will give new roots, which means that it will bloom again someday!

* The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis beladonna and Hippeastrum garden. (Ed.)

Amaryllis is a bulbous indoor plant with a tall peduncle reaching a height of up to 50 centimeters and consisting of 3-6 large inflorescences. Amaryllis flowers can have different shades and enchant gardeners with their extraordinary beauty.

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, a number of rules regarding its maintenance must be followed. By strictly following them, even a beginner will be able to grow this unusually beautiful flower without much difficulty.

Types and varieties of amaryllis

- is a flower belonging to the family of monocotyledonous bulbous plants. The diameter of the bulbs can reach from 5 to 10 centimeters. Amaryllis leaf blades are narrow, long and bright green. They appear in early autumn under normal conditions, and in cold climates in March. Leaves die off in May.

The plant throws out its flower stalk in August. Twelve buds of white, red or pink appear on it, which turn into large beautiful flowers. Amaryllis flowering time lasts about two weeks.

– in nature, the plant grows in Brazil. Its height is up to 60 centimeters. The bulb has an oblong shape and a diameter of up to 10 centimeters. The peduncle is tall, gray-green. Often two inflorescences are formed on it, reminiscent of an orchid. The flowers are large, apple green or cherry brown striped in color. The leaf blades are narrow, long and green in color.

– the plant reaches a height of 50 centimeters. The inflorescences are large, orange in color, but can be red, pink, white and cherry. The bulb has a diameter of up to 12 centimeters. The leaf blades are long, lily-type.

– is a perennial bulbous plant. The bulb has a round or rounded conical shape. The leaf blades of the lily type have a dark green tint. The peduncle reaches a length of 35 to 80 centimeters. The inflorescences are large, tubular, red, cherry, pink or orange in color.

The plant reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. From 4 to 6 large, crimson-colored flowers bloom on a peduncle. The leaf blades are dark green, lily-type. The plant blooms in May and December.

– the plant bulb has a diameter of 10 to 15 centimeters. From it grow two peduncles up to 50 centimeters long with 5 inflorescences of a white hue with red stripes and specks. The leaf blades are long, green, lily-type.

– amaryllis of this variety reaches a height of 50 centimeters. Large inflorescences in the amount of three pieces appear on the peduncle. Flowering of the plant begins 10 weeks after planting in the substrate. The inflorescences are creamy with pink stripes. The edges of the petals have wavy edges. The leaf plates of the prominent belt type are distinguished by their glossiness and dark green tint.

– the length of the peduncle of this variety reaches 60 centimeters. 3 large inflorescences of a snow-white hue with wavy petals and pleasant aroma. The plant bulb is oval or rounded shape with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters. The leaf blades are long, glossy green.

– the plant bulb has a round shape and a diameter of up to 12 centimeters. From it grows a peduncle of medium thickness, on which large inflorescences of a white-pink hue with a pleasant aroma and rounded petals are formed. The leaves are green, glossy, long, belt-shaped.

The height of the crop reaches 60 centimeters. From 2 to four large red flowers with wavy petals appear on the peduncle. The flowering period of amaryllis lasts from late summer to mid-autumn.

– the peduncle of the plant reaches a height of 60 centimeters. It blooms from two to four luxurious, large flowers with a large number of white petals with orange stripes. With good care, the plant blooms twice a year.

– the bulb of this plant variety reaches a diameter of 8 to 12 centimeters. A peduncle grows from it, on which 3 to 5 large red inflorescences with a light, pleasant aroma are formed. The leaf blades of this amaryllis variety are long, bright green, and belt-shaped.

– this variety is distinguished by dense linear-lingual, long leaf plates of a dark green hue and luxurious, lush flowers peach color, reminiscent of peonies. The inflorescences are not only beautiful, but also smell very pleasant. The height of the plant reaches 60 centimeters. One bulb grows up to two peduncles with 4-6 buds.

– a variety of this amaryllis reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. From 2 to 6 large white inflorescences with wavy petals and the aroma of expensive French perfume are formed on the peduncle. Amaryllis blooms in late summer. Lily-type leaf blades reach up to 30 centimeters in length and have a dark green tint.

The plant reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. On a long peduncle, from 4 to six large inflorescences with double petals of orange, red and white shades are formed. The leaf blades of amaryllis are long, belt-shaped, and dark green. The bulbs are large, their diameter ranges from 12 to 15 centimeters.

- is a bulbous perennial. The bulb has a round or round-conical shape. The dark green, belt-type leaf blades reach up to 70 centimeters in length. They bloom on a long peduncle large flowers various shades with a delicate, pleasant aroma.

– the height of the plant’s peduncle reaches 70 centimeters. Up to 4 large, luxurious cream-colored inflorescences with a pleasant aroma bloom on it. Flowering time occurs at the end of summer and lasts up to one month. The leaf blades have a dark green tint and glossiness. They die off at the end of autumn with the onset of the dormant period for amaryllis.

– plant bulbs reach a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. The leaf blades of amaryllis are long, green, and lily-type. The peduncle grows up to 60 centimeters in length. Up to 4 large pink inflorescences with wavy petals bloom on it. Flowering time is from May to June.

Amaryllis home care

This luxurious flower is easy to care for. However, in order for it to please with its unusual flowers, you should adhere to the rules of caring for it, trying to create a microclimate for it as in its natural environment. If the plant feels comfortable, it will bloom twice or even three times a year.

Air humidity is not of great importance for the crop, but to avoid attacks by pests, the leaf blades should be wiped with a sponge and sprayed once a week. Such manipulations should be abandoned while the amaryllis is blooming. Bulbs that are at rest should not be sprayed either.

Amaryllis likes diffused bright sunlight, so it should be grown in a southeast or southwest window. To prevent the peduncle from reaching towards the sun, the pot needs to be turned from time to time.

The most comfortable temperature for the plant is considered to be between 18 and 25 degrees. When the bulbs are in a dormant period, the temperature should be reduced to 10–12 degrees.

Hippeastrum is also a member of the Amaryllidaceae family. It can be grown with care at home without much hassle if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. You can find all the necessary recommendations in this article.

Watering amaryllis

In summer, amaryllis should be watered only when the substrate dries out. When the plant enters a dormant period, watering is reduced, taking place several days after the soil has dried.

If the bulbs were moved to the basement, then watering should still be reduced in order to prevent acidification of the soil. Please note that water should be applied under the bulb, and not on it.

Soil for amaryllis

You can create soil that is suitable for amaryllis yourself.

The ideal soil for the plant would be a mixture of equal parts of leaf and turf soil, humus, peat and sand.

Amaryllis transplant

Typically, plant replanting is required once a year. This frequency will allow the gardener to study the condition of the flower bulb.

It is extremely important to carry out replanting according to the rules, since failure to comply with them can lead to a lack of flowering of the plant. For planting, you should not select a pot that is too spacious, otherwise the amaryllis simply will not bloom. The ideal distance between the walls of the pot and the bulb should not be more than three centimeters.

When transplanting a bulb into the ground, you should only bury it halfway in the soil mixture, leaving the other half and the top above the ground. You should also not forget about the drainage layer, which can be formed from fine expanded clay.

Fertilizer for amaryllis

It is necessary to fertilize the plant only during the flowering and growth period. Feeding is carried out once every ten days.

As a fertilizer, you should take mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Amaryllis blooming

Flowering time depends on the plant variety. Some plants bloom in summer, some in autumn, and some that bloom in winter. To prolong flowering, it is necessary to keep the pot with amaryllis in a cool place, out of direct sunlight.

After the first inflorescence opens, the peduncle can be cut off and placed in a container of water. There is no difference in the duration of flowering in water and on the bulb. However, thanks to cutting, it is possible to reduce the depletion of the bulb and stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

The inflorescences of the plant are large and have a pleasant aroma. Their petals have wavy or straight edges. The color scheme can vary from white and cream to red and pink with stripes and specks. Amaryllis blooms for 15-20 days.

During flowering, the plant needs light and abundant watering. The soil should be moist, but it is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate in the pot, otherwise the bulb will begin to rot.

Amaryllis pruning

After the plant has flowered, the leaf blades and shoots die off on their own; there is no need to trim them.

Caring for amaryllis in winter

Typically, the plant's dormant period begins in the cold season and lasts for two months. You can tell that a plant is going into hibernation by shedding its leaf blades and dying off the peduncle. At this point, you should reduce watering to a minimum and stop fertilizing.

Then the pot along with the bulb must be transferred to the basement, where the temperature should not exceed 16 degrees. Ideally, the temperature should be 10-12 degrees. The soil in which the bulb is located should be moistened as it dries completely.

After the amaryllis emerges from hibernation, the plant is cared for in the same way as during the growing season.

This method is quite labor-intensive; moreover, it does not allow preserving the varietal qualities of the crop; for this reason, it is used extremely rarely for home breeding. However, if the grower still decides to try, he needs to do the following.

Perform artificial pollination of flowers using a brush. Two months after the seed pods crack, it is necessary to collect the seeds. Dry them and spread them over light, airtight, moistened soil and sprinkle a thin layer of soil mixture on top. Planting of seeds must be carried out from January to February.

The box with seeds should be kept in a warm place under film until the seedlings appear. After the young plants have leaves, they should be planted in separate pots. Such amaryllis will begin to bloom only after seven years.

Reproduction of amaryllis by children

When transplanting an adult plant, it can be propagated with the help of children. For this purpose, the children with roots should be separated from the bulb using a knife. The cuts must be treated with charcoal.

A small bulb should be planted in a separate container with amaryllis soil mixture and kept warm for the rooting period. Three years after planting, the young plant will begin to bloom.

Amaryllis propagation by dividing the bulb

This method is the most popular and in demand among gardeners. To propagate a plant using bulbous division, you should take an onion, peel it from scales and divide it into four parts.

Then each of them must be immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection. After half an hour, each part of the bulb should be planted in the substrate, immersing them 1/3 in the ground. Until the bulbs are completely rooted, they should be kept in a warm place.

Amaryllis propagation by scales

To use this propagation method, you should take an onion, divide it into several parts, separating the scales. Then they need to be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and planted in a substrate for growing amaryllis.

After three months, young bulbs will begin to form. Mineral fertilizers and keeping them in warm conditions will help speed up their appearance.

Amaryllis diseases

If the plant is not properly cared for, it is susceptible to a number of diseases and pest invasions.

The most common diseases of amaryllis are:

Fungus - upon detection red spots on leaf blades, bulbs or inflorescences, or completely reddened leaves , the plant must be urgently treated with “Fundazol” and watering reduced.

Blanching of leaf blades - loss of bright green decorative coloring of leaves occurs due to stagnation of moisture in the soil. Transplanting amaryllis into breathable soil with good layer drainage

Anthracnose - at the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves the plant should be treated with Actellik fungicide, and watering and the frequency of spraying should be reduced.

Amaryllis pests

The following insects are dangerous to the plant:

Spider mite - you can notice the appearance of this dangerous insect by the appearance of cobwebs on leaf plates . You can get rid of it by spraying the flower with the Kleschevit insecticide.

Onion mite - this insect feeds on the amaryllis bulb, resulting in the plant grows poorly and stops blooming. If it blooms, the flowers turn out to be deformed, and the leaf blades turn yellow and fall off. The pest must be controlled as follows. The amaryllis bulb should be dug out of the pot and placed in hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees, then treat it with Keltan.

Amaryllis mealybug - feeds on the bulb, leading to its fading and the appearance of a dark coating on the scales . To destroy the worm, you should treat the bulb with the Aktara insecticide.

Aphid - the insect feeds on the sap of leaves, causing them to turn yellow . It can be destroyed by treating the plant (peduncle and foliage) with a solution of 20% ethyl alcohol.

Thrips - these pests affect leaf blades, leading to the appearance of multiple dark spots on them . To get rid of pests, you should disinfect the plant, replant it in a new pot and soil, and then treat it with the Fitoverm insecticide.

Shchitovka - when scale insects appear leaves become covered with sticky juice and dark spots , which are actually insects. You can get rid of them by treating the plant with Actellik.

To prevent the occurrence of all of the above diseases, it is enough to properly care for the amaryllis and such problems will bypass the flower.

Possible difficulties when growing amaryllis

Many gardeners encounter a number of problems when growing this unusually beautiful plant, which include:

• No flowering - amaryllis may stop blooming due to a pot that is too loose, the bulb is too deeply buried in the soil, lack of fertilizer, a small amount of light and heat, rotting of the root system, lack of a dormant period, young bulbs, or pest damage.
• Yellowing of leaves - causes damage to aphids in the plant.
• Redness of leaves - redness of the leaf blades is caused by amaryllis being damaged by a disease of fungal etiology.
• Drooping of leaf plates - this problem arises as a result of violation of the irrigation regime and excessive soil moisture.

After the reason for the loss of decorativeness by the plant is identified and eliminated, the amaryllis will regain its former luxury and beauty in the shortest possible time.

Amaryllis signs and superstitions

The large and beautiful inflorescences of this exotic plant can decorate any interior and bring positive energy into the atmosphere of your home. Amaryllis translated into Russian means proud and unapproachable. People call this beautiful flower the “naked girl” due to the fact that often the peduncle with inflorescences appears much earlier than the dark green leaf plates.

There is an opinion that it is better to grow amaryllis in open ground, and not in a pot on the windowsill, since it can harm not only pets, but also humans. What exactly is its harm?

The plant of this family is poisonous. It contains a substance such as lycorin, which, when ingested, causes severe poisoning and vomiting. Therefore, when growing this flower, it should be kept away from animals and small children to avoid trouble.

Amaryllis according to Feng Shui

According to this ancient Eastern philosophy, amaryllis is a representative of the fire element. It is especially pronounced in plants with red flowers. This exotic flower brings joy and material well-being to the house, and health and harmony to the inhabitants of the house.

It is better to place amaryllis in that part of the house that is hidden from prying eyes. The plant is most impressed by the kitchen. Here it needs to be placed on the windowsill so that the amaryllis begins to saturate the surrounding space with positive energy.

By its nature, the flower is a solitary plant and does not tolerate other plants near it. The only exception is aloe and fern, which can create a wonderful energetic tandem with it.

The magic of amaryllis

The most important magical ability of a flower is the fulfillment of desires. To fulfill your innermost dream, you should wait until the amaryllis produces a peduncle with buds. Then you need to choose one of the unblown flowers, touch it and make a wish.

The plant will help you fulfill your dreams regarding love, health, travel and personal growth. After making a wish, you should thank the flower and continue to care for it.

If the bud for which a wish was made blooms earlier than the others, this means that the universe has heard the flower grower’s request and will soon fulfill it.

Conclusion

Amaryllis is an exotic plant that is quite easy to grow at home. It is enough to comply simple rules care for the plant and it will constantly delight you with luxurious flowers, filling the air with a pleasant aroma.

(Amaryllidáceae) was bred by the Swedish botanist, mineralogist, zoologist and physician Carl Linnaeus in 1753 and includes 4 species of plants.

At home, the most commonly grown plant is amaryllis belladonna, which was cultivated in 1700.

Amaryllis bulbs were first introduced to England, then to Australia, and then to America. Exactly in Australia early XIX centuries, hybrid plants with different flower colors were bred.

Dormancy and flowering period:

The rest period should be done from December to April, since these periods are more natural for this plant and are as close to natural as possible. In this case, Amaryllis is less depleted and tolerates flowering more easily.

At the end of August and beginning of September, it is necessary to begin to reduce watering and fertilization. By the end of October - November, all watering should be stopped. As you begin to reduce watering, Amaryllis will begin to shed its leaves and absorb all the nutrients from them into the bulb. Therefore, you should not pick off the leaves until they are completely dry. With a complete cessation of watering, Amaryllis should lose all its flow.

During the dormant period, the plant must be watered once a month as it retains some roots. It does not need lighting, so it can be moved to a dark, cool and always dry place. The storage temperature should not fall below 10 ºC, as the bulbs are not frost-resistant.

Amaryllis usually blooms in early March. In order to stimulate it, you need to move the pot to a warm and well-lit place and begin to gradually increase the amount of watering, adjusting it relative to the intensity of growth. Depending on the species, foliage or flowers may appear first - either of these options is normal, but flower stalks often appear.

After flowering ends, the peduncle is cut off at a height of 3-4 cm from the base of the bulbs.

Some Amaryllis owners cut the peduncle from the bulb immediately after the flower opens and place it in water, since the flowering time in the vase and on the plant is almost the same, but this way you prevent unnecessary depletion of the bulb and stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle. The water in a vase with a flower must be changed daily.

After flowering, the plant continues to be regularly watered and fertilized, as Amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage. The more foliage that grows over the spring and summer, the better it will be for the bulb; they will help it stock up on energy for the dormant period and new flowering. With each new leaf, if the conditions of watering and fertilization are met, the amaryllis bulb lays flower buds or daughter bulbs, and they can begin to grow.

About caring for Amaryllis:

Temperature: The optimal temperature for amaryllis in summer is 18-25 ºC, and in winter the temperature should not fall below 10 ºC. Amaryllis is a heat-loving plant, but it is not recommended to place the plant near radiators or heaters in winter. In summer, the plant may suffer from cold air currents from the air conditioner, so it should not be placed in critical proximity to them. The plant needs to ensure that the night temperature is lower than the day temperature. In the summer, Amaryllis can be taken out onto the balcony or terrace, while protecting it from direct sunlight, wind and precipitation.

Lighting: Amaryllis needs bright light and a south-east or south-west window sill is well suited for it. The plant needs shading only in the summer at noon and immediately after transplanting or planting. In winter there is no need to shade. The plant must be rotated regularly so that the leaves develop evenly.

Watering: For Amaryllis, watering should be regular as needed. The plant substrate should have time to dry slightly between waterings. It is necessary to water with warm, soft, settled water, being careful not to let the water fall on the bulb. The water from the pan must be drained after watering.

Air humidity: Amaryllis is demanding on air humidity. For him, a daily procedure should be spraying the leaves of the plant with soft, settled water in the morning and evening, especially if the plant is kept in a room with dry air. Regular spraying will preserve the decorative appearance and improve the well-being of the plant. In order to increase humidity, you can use pallets with wet expanded clay. In this case, the bottom of the amaryllis pot should not touch the water. It is necessary to clean the leaves from dust.

Fertilizers: It is necessary to fertilize Amaryllis in spring and summer once every 2 weeks, since rocky soil has few nutrients, and frequent watering prevents them from accumulating. Fertilizers must be applied through a tray, immersing the plant in a container with fertilizer for 20 minutes, and then allowing the excess to drain. Next, complex fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants are used for feeding.

The soil: For Amaryllis, the soil must be nutritious and well-drained. For it, take a universal substrate or soil for decorative foliage plants, to which charcoal, coconut soil, sphagnum moss, perlite and humus are added to increase nutritional value. Good drainage at the bottom of the pot is essential.

Transfer: Amaryllis are rarely replanted, only when necessary, in mid-summer. The pot is not wide, but deep (the bulb has a long root system), making sure that the distance between the bulb and the wall of the pot does not exceed 3 cm. The bulb is buried only halfway, preserving the leaves, which serve as a source of nutrition at first, until roots form (1.5 months). IN cramped pot the plant blooms faster, but if you want to achieve the appearance of daughter bulbs, then the pot must be taken wider.

Amaryllis propagation:

The plant reproduces by division and daughter bulbs.

Most often, amaryllis is propagated by daughter bulbs, which form at the bottom of an adult bulb. Onions that are 3 cm in size and have small roots must be separated. Reproduction is carried out during transplantation.

For propagation by division, bulbs of at least 6 cm in size are taken. If necessary, part of the soil substrate is removed so that only the roots of the plant are in the ground and the entire bulb is cleared of scales. Cut off top part bulbs along the border of the foliage, capturing a little of the surface of the bulb. Then the bulb is cut into 4 vertical equal parts, the cuts should reach the surface of the substrate. Between the lobules it is necessary to insert metal or wooden knitting needles measuring 5-6 mm. The optimal temperature for reproduction is 22-25 ºC. Caring for a divided bulb should be the same as for a regular plant. When the first daughter bulbs appear, it is necessary to apply fertilizer for the first time; after that, fertilizers are applied at the same frequency as for a regular plant. In the spring, plant the resulting group of bulbs in separate pots. Usually this is from 5 to 7 bulbs.

Amaryllis. Growing problems:

• No flowering: the bulb is very deep, lack of a dormant period, lack of a dormant period, a large number of daughter bulbs, insufficient nutrients in the soil, insufficient lighting, the presence of any problems with the root system of the plant.
• The onion becomes smaller: too much flowering, a large number of daughter bulbs, insufficient lighting.

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Amaryllis is a popular indoor plant that is found in the flower collections of many gardeners. Demanded for its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try too hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much work with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

For amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the growing season. So, at a certain time the plant actively grows, and at another time it begins to rest. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions, when temperatures hover near freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• During the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can also place the plant on a south-facing window, if you first shade it from the scorching daytime rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• During the growth phase, the plant should receive 14-16 hours of powerful, diffused sunlight each day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually reach towards the sun, which means that the pot will have to be constantly rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special supports.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture, so it is recommended to water it regularly with settled water at room temperature, through a tray, from which excess water is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but there is no need to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, withering of leaves, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. Optimal humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only sprayed periodically. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimal room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the rest period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10–12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Choosing a pot

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It must be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, during care, a lightweight pot is more likely to be touched than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is selected based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that from it to all walls there should be up to 3-5 cm. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

Next we move on to choosing soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs. But any experienced gardener will abandon this idea and go prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: to do this, pour it over with strong boiling water or hold it over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

It is necessary to fill the bottom with drainage 2-3 cm thick. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, and small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and distributed over the surface of the pot. A large hole is also made in it to drain water.

The drainage from above is also covered with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm, in order to additionally protect against rotting of the roots due to the accumulation of water.

Planting amaryllis step by step

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful ones with a smooth surface and good enough roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rot, mold, or stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, you should not choose it either.

Amaryllis transplant

How to replant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis is transplanted after it has bloomed, waiting until the peduncle has completely withered.

There is no need to replant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more often than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too quickly, you can transplant it earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, water the plant abundantly 4 days before replanting.
2. On the day of transplantation, carefully remove the amaryllis along with the soil and carefully clear it of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotten roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and the daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to be separated (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you don’t have to do it. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases the amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow more children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Amaryllis propagation

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of propagating amaryllis - dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

This is the longest method of reproduction and the least successful. If seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

To obtain seeds you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination rate drops sharply over time.
• Before planting, moisten the soil well.
• Planting depth is 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• Place the pot with seeds in a warm, shaded place.
• They wait about a month for the emergence of seedlings, and 3 months after that, the seedlings are planted in different pots.

Dividing the bulb

This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the cuts with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25–27 ºС.
• The first leaf grows on the cuttings. They wait for the second one, and plant the plants in mature soil for bulbous plants, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

This video will tell you how to cut an amaryllis bulb:

Many gardeners successfully use bulb division to propagate amaryllis; it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store-bought ones, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small bulbs on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and pressing lightly into the ground. Only part of the onion is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly compact the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and the flowers are given rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis, although an exotic plant, is quite real in everyone’s home. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Caring for amaryllis at home

Watering and fertilizing

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle is at least 10 cm high. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that the water does not get on the bulb while watering. It should fall purely on the soil around it.

In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intense flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor flowering plants will do - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Power of Life and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen are preferable.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted in a ratio of 1.5 cups per 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

When the leaves die completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out during the resting phase either.

Blooming amaryllis at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture there are tricks on how to change this period. The easiest one is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, producing mature peduncles already in 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to overload the bulb with flowering.

When the first flower appears and blooms, some cut off the peduncle and place it in a vase. Provided the water is updated daily, it can last there for up to three weeks. You don’t have to cut the peduncle, but it will last just as long and will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or pot of flowers in a cooler, darker location.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

You must understand which of the reasons listed is present for you. It needs to be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When flowers wilt, the amount of incoming water and fertilizer is sharply reduced. They completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when there are no peduncles or leaves left.
2. All dead leaves are removed, but this should not be done forcibly. If you leave a partially living leaf, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the resting phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still living, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and place them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make them grow amaryllis twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, strictly organize a rest period for the bulb to rest and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, pots with amaryllis are taken out from their resting place, placed in a bright and insulated place, and watered. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest lesions are cut off and treated with brilliant green. Leave the plant in the air for a week, then plant it.

2. Mold and rot

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer and smells a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution specified by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It feels like the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This leads to their withering and drying out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

• The insect attacks the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and lack of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• The bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35–40ºC for 5 minutes. After this, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the onion is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur bomb, which is set on fire. They wait 2 hours, after which they take it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis in the fresh air for another day.

5. Trips

• There are many small brown spots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and replant it in a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

• Dense scales are observed at the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white or even dark brown. Around them there is a sticky discharge, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is soaked in laundry soap and foamed. The leaves are actively wiped with it.

9. Aphids

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are collected by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are visible on the surface of the soil.
• The moisture supply is reduced, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

Stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis that are selectively bred. True Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is prized by avid gardeners.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following goals:

• Growing large double and regular flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Non-double varieties include Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotic, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new flower forms. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow petals that are partially corrugated at the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties include Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Plant photos

Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllidaceae family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow in the wild alone, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

In order not to repeat ourselves, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - at the end of winter or beginning of spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Saturation of aroma:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• for amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• at hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. Number of flowers per plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. Presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which is slightly purple;
• the hollow tube, which is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• for amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• at hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb by shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened at the side.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe on the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one plant species to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, the geography here is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the homeland of plants.

The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is responsible for the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis was only one of the subspecies of lilies. They called him lionartsis. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant first appears in the works of Virgil. In his poetic works you can find a heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. This name means "sparkling" in Greek.

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greenery of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

The beginning of amaryllis flowering is marked by the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Then the leaves grow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. The type of inflorescence is an umbrella.

Amaryllis growing in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, and green colors. An individual amaryllis flower is similar to a lily and a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Despite the apparent cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will cause irritation. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap. You need to keep the flower away from pets and children.

Beautiful home flower Amaryllis*

Amaryllis* (Amaryllis, Hippeastrum)- one of our favorite indoor plants, especially in the rather cold Russian climate, with an almost six-month period of snow and lack of access to such natural gardening work in your favorite garden plot! Modern varieties of amaryllis are very varied in color and, as a rule, are crowned with large bell-shaped flowers in various shades from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green. There are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers. Homeland of this unusual flower- South America.

(*The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis beladonna and Hippeastrum garden. Here we're talking about about hippeastrum, see description on page Hippeastrum (Ed.)

source http://www.greeninfo.ru/indoor_plants/amaryllis.html/Article/_/aID/4671

Amaryllis are bulbous plants with linear, fairly long oblong leaves. Hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrum are more common in culture. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants, as they are easily forced indoors even by the most unprepared amateurs. As a rule, each bulb produces one or two long flower shoots with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter, and sometimes more. It happens that well-developed bulbs also produce a third arrow, but I usually remove it at the very early stage of its development, since I believe that the third flowering is very significantly inferior in beauty and abundance of flowering to the previous two and, most importantly, greatly weakens the mother bulb, which is fraught with a lack of flowering next year.

Amaryllis usually bloom in late winter or in early spring. Some species and varieties can bloom in summer or autumn. With the help of forcing, with some little knowledge and skills, in principle, amaryllis can be made to bloom at any time of the year convenient for you. The height of peduncles averages 0.4-0.7 m and greatly depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The same applies to the size of each individual flower.

What is the difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum?

In fact, the popular flowers are representatives of two different genera (hippeastrum and amaryllis) or their hybrids. In terms of the nature of flowering, planting and caring for them, these two plants differ little from each other. In the first and simplest approximation, their difference is only in the size of the flower, the height of the peduncles and the size of the bulbs. Most often, in hippeastrums, everything is larger. Other differences are not very significant for us gardeners, so for simplicity we will use the common name for these plants - amaryllis. By the way, hippeastrum translated means “big knightly star.”

How to plant amaryllis correctly?

Depending on the size of the amaryllis bulb, it is planted in an individual (quite heavy) pot of 15-20 cm in size or in a small group, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, in a slightly larger container or container. Avoid light pots that can tip over during flowering of amaryllis or from minor gusts of wind if the foliage and peduncles are quite windy. The blunt end (usually with the remains of the roots) is used to bury the bulbs in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Firmly tamp the soil mixture around the bulbs so that approximately half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the surface of the soil. In the lower part of the earthen clod, almost above the drainage, you can horizontally place one or one and a half sticks of any long-acting complex fertilizer you have tested, after dividing them in half.

After planting or replanting, place the pot with amaryllis on a bright window in a fairly warm place and water it with water at room temperature. For planting, an earth mixture is used, consisting of approximately equal parts of turf, leaf, humus soil and sand. When replanting, the roots are shaken off from the old soil, and roots that have rotted in an old pot or dried out during long-term storage are removed.

Before planting, it is very advisable to first remove all dried outer scales of the bulbs that have black or dark brown color for several reasons. Firstly, by peeling the bulb to live and elastic white or light green tissues and exposing your plant to the light, you thereby stimulate the production of chlorophyll in them and, as it were, stimulate or trigger all the necessary life processes in an often dormant or resting plant, if we are talking about a planned transplant of this plant. Secondly, if we are talking about newly acquired specimens, behind the dead covering membranes, there can be anything - small hidden foci of rot, pathogenic spores, and even young children that have grown into growth. Therefore, I strongly advise you, before planting, to carefully remove all the outer dark and even light outer shells that have already lost their elasticity, and separate all the fairly large and viable children. Next, it would be a good idea to treat your bulbs almost up to the neck for half an hour with some kind of fungicide or at least a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Then, after drying them well for several hours, or even a day, you can begin planting the prepared plants. Areas that make you suspicious can be pre-treated with Maxim, Fitosporin, or at least regular brilliant green. But they also need to be thoroughly dried before planting!

Very small, slightly puckered children are removed or left on the bulb, depending on your further goals and preferences in relation to a given variety or specifically in relation to a given specimen or a specific bulb. You can leave them if you need to quickly propagate this variety or remove them if abundant and long-lasting flowering is more important to you. It must be remembered that the presence of children can lead to a delay or even a prolonged absence of flowering in some varieties. The intensive formation of children is facilitated by the very spacious container in which they grow. The plant seems to understand - why strain and try to reproduce through flowering and setting seeds, if you can multiply your offspring more naturally and faster vegetatively.

Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb should be only 1.5-2 cm! Less is possible! As mentioned above, in a spacious container the plant produces many children and does not bloom for a long time. At the same time, well-developed amaryllis roots need a lot of space, so the pot should be deep enough and wide at the bottom. Good drainage is also essential, since the bulk of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage. It is advisable to use ceramic pots, without enamel. This promotes better ventilation and aeration of the root system.

Adult plants are replanted approximately every 2 years, younger plants are replanted as needed and the bulbs grow. If possible, the top layer of soil for all plants is replaced annually.

Which window is best to put it on?

Amaryllis are light-loving plants; they do very well on south-east and south-west windows. You can also place them on southern windows, but in the daytime it is better to shade the pots from direct sunlight. As the leaves and flower shoots grow, the plant must be periodically turned slightly so that the stem stretching towards the light returns to a vertical position.

How to water amaryllis?

Water the newly planted plant very sparingly so as not to flood the bulb and roots until the new leaves or flower begin to grow and reach about 5-7 cm in height. Depending on the variety, amaryllis may produce either foliage or flowers first - either of these options is normal, but most often the flower stalks appear. After the leaves or arrow of the flower begin to grow, you should keep the soil moist enough. But it is imperative to keep in mind that with a strong excess of moisture, thick roots that have not yet taken root and are not properly rooted, or even the bulb itself, can rot, especially if it previously had areas affected by rotting. In the absence of leaves and cold weather or windowsill, moisture from pots, especially plastic ones, evaporates slowly, which can cause rotting of roots and bulbs.

When will my amaryllis bloom?

A powerful, well-developed bulb begins to grow or throws out flower stalks almost immediately after planting. And within seven to eight weeks, depending on the variety and variety of amaryllis, you will receive one or two powerful peduncles, each of which will have three to five, and sometimes six beautiful flowers. To prolong their flowering, keep the pot in a fairly cool place and out of direct sunlight. If a third flower arrow suddenly appears, it is better to break it off immediately at the base and not allow the bulb to bloom a third time, since flowering three times greatly depletes the bulb. Immediately after the first flower opens, the peduncle can be safely cut off and placed in water in a narrow, tall vase; it is advisable to refresh the water every day. The duration of flowering of each peduncle in the cut and on the bulb is almost the same, but at the same time you significantly reduce the depletion of the bulbs and often stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

In summer, plants are watered abundantly (but not often!) as needed, and fed once every two weeks. On sunny days, only pots provide shade; you can spray the foliage in the evening or in the morning. It is better not to do this during the daytime, since water droplets can become microlenses and simply burn the leaves, concentrating the sun's rays on them. Amaryllis can also be taken out into the open air - a balcony, an outside window sill, or even planted in the garden, protecting the mouth of the bulb from heavy rainfall and excessive moisture in the earthen clod.

What does amaryllis need to bloom regularly?

You can help your amaryllis bloom again next year. All you need is a little extra care for this plant and it will repay you in spades. After flowering has ended, the flower stalks should be removed immediately, cutting them off at approximately 3-4 cm from the base. Continue to water the plant periodically as the top layer of the earthen ball dries out. Amaryllis should also be fed regularly, approximately once every two weeks or ten days, preferably liquid fertilizers for bulbous plants. Amaryllis respond very well to liquid complex fertilizer “Emerald”. The more leaves the amaryllis produces during the spring and summer, the better. They will help the plant stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering. In this case, under favorable conditions for the plant, behind every fourth leaf either a flower bud or a baby embryo is formed. And depending on the size of the pot, care of the plant and some other external conditions, they may well begin to grow and reward you with either a beautiful flower or a new plant.

When can amaryllis be removed?

Amaryllis are highly valued precisely because their flowering time, by properly regulating the dormant period, can be timed to coincide with almost any desired date. But it is still better to do this from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for this plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better tolerate this event, which, simply put, occurs for them with the least loss. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will recover normally in the spring and summer. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost year-round.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy?

At the end of August - September, stop feeding and begin to reduce the amount of watering until it stops completely at the end of October - November. By this time, the amaryllis will begin to gradually shed its leaves, and the nutrients from them will gradually transfer to the bulb. Due to a significant reduction in watering and natural light, all leaves should naturally die off in October - November. There is no need to specifically trim leaves that have not yet withered, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, creating the necessary supply of nutrients for subsequent abundant flowering. But sometimes one or two unwithered leaves remain on the bulb for quite a long time. If they do not interfere with your further storage of the amaryllis pot, you can leave them. Often they are carefully bent or cut off at the base of the bulb to save space when storing them, for example, on racks in a cool pantry or a garage warm enough to keep temperatures below freezing in winter.

How to store amaryllis during dormancy?

In a dormant state, the bulbs usually retain living roots, at least skeletal and the largest ones, so they need to be watered a little occasionally (every 15-20 days). The bulbs do not need light during dormancy, so they can be placed in a dark, cool and always dry place. Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about +5-+12°C. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or loose in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values.

When does amaryllis usually bloom?

At home, the normal flowering period for amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. Very often, amaryllis bloom precisely on Valentine's Day or on the holiday of March 8, which for many years replaced Valentine's Day in our country. 7 - 10 weeks before the desired flowering date, bring the pots with rested bulbs into a warmer and brighter room, as described above. The amount of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen clod. By following these simple guidelines, you will be rewarded with regular flowering of your amaryllis every year.

How and when should amaryllis be replanted?

It is advisable to replant and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years. When planting and replanting, the root system is not cut off, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the children that often appear on the bulbs and, if necessary, plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. Children usually bloom around the third year after separation and transplantation. When replanting, the diameter of the container is increased only slightly, since amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster in “tight” containers.

It is better to replant plants in the spring, approximately 3-5 weeks after flowering. This is due to the fact that faded bulbs are greatly depleted and decrease in diameter, since flowering occurs almost exclusively due to the reserves of the bulb itself. Faded plants are carefully cleaned of wilted and dried outer scales and transplanted into smaller pots with a new nutrient substrate. The sizes of pots for amaryllis were discussed above. In summer they are kept in the same way as young plants, feeding them regularly.

As the diameter of the bulb increases, it can be transferred to a slightly larger container. But this must be done very carefully so as not to greatly damage the earthen ball and roots. At this moment, you can insert long-acting mineral nutrient sticks (fertilizers) into the lower part of the earthen clod. It's ok developing plant the root system densely and evenly penetrates the entire earthen lump and does not allow it to fall apart. If this is not the case, then you need to understand what is preventing the plant from developing normally and take all necessary measures to eliminate these unfavorable factors.

How to propagate amaryllis?

Amaryllis are propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. Seed propagation is practiced only for selection and hybridization; for amateur floriculture, this propagation method is considered very costly and ineffective. Let me share a little of my sad experience. During my school years, I wanted to understand what would happen when crossing red and white amaryllis. At the same time, I received seeds on both white and red specimens. There were quite a lot of seeds in all the seed pods. Germination was good and almost all the planted seeds taken from both amaryllis germinated. There were about a hundred seedlings, I simply did not plant more due to lack of space. Gradually growing, they began to take up more and more space, and I had to compact them or distribute them to friends. Having reached adulthood, they all bloomed, but I never got any outstanding or even white-pink colors. Almost all colors were red. After interviewing all my friends with whom I shared seedlings, I realized that their colors were almost exactly the same as mine. This whole experiment took me approximately 5 years. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but this was the end of my desire to become an amaryllis “breeder.”

Modern varieties.

improvement or search for new varieties with classic large flowers of double and non-double forms. I would like to note such terry varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise etc. Among the non-double monochrome forms, I find them very interesting varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, Lemon Lime, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby and etc.;

searching for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or adding new shades to existing ones. I would note such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude, Misty, Clown, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz, Papillio, Pizazz and etc.;

search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petalled varieties of amaryllis or “spiders”, from the English “spider” - spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz etc. They all look very beautiful in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, are much inferior to large-flowered hybrids.

Amaryllis in open ground.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, amaryllis can be grown in open ground, but be sure to remember that it is afraid of negative temperatures. If there is a threat of frost, amaryllis bulbs should be brought into temperature-controlled rooms in advance. Bulbs should be planted in open ground mainly in sunny places or partial shade only after the threat of return frosts has disappeared.

In most regions of the Russian Federation, in winter, amaryllis overwinters only as a houseplant with a pronounced dormant period from approximately the end of October to the beginning of February.

The main attraction of amaryllis is its huge inflorescences. But often novice gardeners who planted this plant for the first time and water it all year round, after a few years wonder why they chopped it up or why it stopped blooming altogether. And the reason for this behavior of the flower is that it is not allowed to rest. Amaryllis is one of those indoor plants that need a period of rest. If you give the plant a rest to regain its strength, it will still delight you with its flowering.

What does dormancy mean for amaryllis?

Amaryllis has a very interesting life cycle:

1. The bulbs first germinate (light, thick roots form on the bottom).
2. Then a powerful peduncle begins to emerge from the top of the bulb.
3. When it stretches to the required height, the inflorescences open (usually not all at once, but one by one).
4. After flowering ends, active growth of leaves begins.
5. With the onset of autumn and until the beginning of spring, the bulbs need to rest before the next flowering.

During the period of active growth, which lasts until autumn, it is better to plant amaryllis in the garden. According to the observations of gardeners who practice this method, the bulbs growing in open ground are larger than those left in the pot, which means they have more nutrients.

Thus, a period of rest is necessary for the plant so that the bulbs can recover after such intense work as flowering and growing foliage. If this opportunity is not given to it, the amaryllis will continue to grow and form new leaves, but the weakened bulb will hardly be able to bloom in a year or two.

How to prepare the bulb for rest?

Preparing amaryllis for wintering should begin by stopping watering (gradually). In addition, the pot must be moved to a dark place. In the absence of watering and light, new roots and leaves will cease to form, and the leaf cap will gradually wither.

When this happens, the bulb must be removed from the flowerpot, cleaned of soil and the roots trimmed. Then rinse in potassium permanganate and dry.

Where to store the bulb in winter?

The bulbs should overwinter in a dark, cool place, but this is not easy to find in apartment conditions. The balcony is not very suitable for wintering, especially an open one, because there the bulb will freeze and die.

Most best option– storage on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. Every two weeks it is necessary to check the condition of the bulbs. If there is no free space there, then you can simply leave the bulb in the flowerpot.

Before placing the onion in the refrigerator, wrap it in a napkin or toilet paper.

In mid-February, amaryllis should be taken out of the refrigerator and forced to grow.

Features of wintering amaryllis - video