Stoves – practically free or very cheap material, and at the same time they can make large ovens, including long burning.

Manufacturing progress.

First, remove the top of the barrel, then cut the side for the door.

We take welding and attach the door of the future stove. We measure 200 mm from the bottom and install grate bars.

It is advisable to install another door under the ash pan to control the draft.

You will need fire bricks to protect the walls. We lay them out from the inside.

For the chimney bricks, we install the structure as in the figure below.

The bricks are laid out on the kiln mortar. The composition of the oven mortar is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is mixed with a minimum amount of water until it reaches a very thick consistency.

The thickness of masonry joints should not exceed 5 mm.

To increase the heat transfer of the stove, you can install another barrel on top. You need to make a hole in the barrel for the chimney and weld a piece of pipe under the chimney.

Two barrel oven

One of the highest quality hand-made barrel stoves available to us large containers. The stove for kindling wood consists of two barrels: one for 200 liters, the second for 100 liters. A certain novelty, which not everyone will think of, is the increase in heat transfer due to an additional container, the walls of which are heated by hot air rising up to the pipe. The fuel also burns out in the second barrel.

The stainless steel pipe is made from truck exhaust. The pipe is specially made curved to increase heat transfer into the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if you use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model implements just such an opportunity!

Three-barrel cooking oven

The oven for outdoor cooking is made up of three barrels. In the video you will see how bread is baked in one of these barrels.

We made a stove for burning garbage at the dacha

Another stove for burning leaves and firewood in the country, and at the same time you can cook food on it. This oven is much simpler than those described above, but ease of manufacture in some cases is simply necessary, and this is its advantage.
There is a big advantage to burning waste in a barrel. It's convenient and safe. A domestic 200 liter barrel was used for the stove. Its top is cut off by 16 cm. Firewood is placed and lit in the ash pit, and then leaves are thrown over the top. The author made a special bottom for the firebox from reinforcement and a hoop from a barrel. The bottom is placed on protrusions-corners in order to bring the fire from the wood closer to the top of the stove. A lid with a pipe is placed on top. You can cook food.

An old 200 liter metal barrel is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises, from garages to outbuildings. A stove made from a 200 liter barrel has simplest design and does not cause difficulties even for novice masters. Let's look at the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.

Advantages of a barrel stove

When assembling homemade stoves, artisans often use old gas cylinders or sheet iron. Getting both, and almost free of charge, is problematic. This applies to the greatest extent to sheet metal, which is most often simply purchased. 200 liter barrels are a more affordable raw material for the construction of heating equipment.

200 liters is quite a decent volume. A firebox organized in a barrel can accommodate a large amount of firewood, which is necessary for long-term combustion. There will also be room for a spacious ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.

Stove from a barrel - perfect solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, provide heat to a small workshop, and allow you to heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, there is no need to save on assembly materials.

Other advantages of a barrel stove:

A volume of 200 liters is enough for normal combustion of the flame in the firebox.
Possibility to organize a spacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
Unpretentiousness to fuel - the stove can work on anything that burns.
Easy to use.

Potbelly stove from 200- liter barrel enjoys a certain demand among those who need inexpensive and easy-to-use self-assembly heating equipment.

There are also disadvantages:

High case temperature.
Low efficiency - part of the heat simply flies into the chimney.
Thin walls - durable stoves require metal 3-4 mm thick.

Don't try to light a stove from a barrel. coal– it has a high combustion temperature and can thin the metal.

Assembly sequence

The barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires at least complex instrument. We will need:

angle grinder (grinder);
welding machine;
a hacksaw for working with small parts (this is more convenient);
Grinder.

You will also need auxiliary materials:

segments sheet metal– for scalding doors;
hinges for doors;
chimney metal;
metal for legs;
brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
fittings for creating a grate.

Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for the welding machine (if electric welding is used).

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the best difficult task, the main thing is to strictly follow our instructions and observe safety precautions.

Initial preparation of the barrel

Making a stove out of a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is preparing our “source code”. A 200 liter barrel must be cleared of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas from burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rust spots.Use a grinder to sand the metal.

In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Work with the tool carefully, as the sawn rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door under the firebox should be larger than the door under the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as an ash pit.

For now, we cut off the top part of the barrel completely. We will need to assemble and place a grate inside a 200-liter barrel. Therefore the lack top cover will ensure ease of installation.

Assembling the grate

To make a grate, use reinforcement. The diameter of a standard 200 liter barrel is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the grate must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door we make arbitrary projections - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet iron and weld them to the inner walls.

A potbelly stove from a barrel will generate quite a lot of ash, falling into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with ease of cleaning.

Preparing the doors

The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the loading and ash windows. Therefore, they need to be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also cut out handles from sheet iron and rivet or screw them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200-liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.

Making the base

For our 200 liter barrel, it is advisable to make legs. Use pieces of thick reinforcement for this purpose or make them from metal corners 2-3 mm thick. The optimal distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base is 100 mm.

If you intend to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about where it will be installed. You will need a reliable non-flammable base. It is best to make it from brick or pour a concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material - for example, from sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, simply lay a sheet of iron on it and place the barrel on it.

Preparing the chimney

The design of a 200-liter barrel stove requires the presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - a “pipe-in-pipe” system would be suitable for this. That is, we weld a smaller diameter pipe with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and then put a larger diameter main chimney pipe on it. You can also use ready-made factory dismountable chimneys. The point is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean that it will never become clogged with fumes and soot.

Final assembly of the furnace

We take our 200 liter barrel with legs welded to it and install it on a pre-prepared base. We lower the grate inside. At the next stage, we weld the top cover with a short chimney pipe. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.

Place some paper and small wood chips on the grate, light the fire, until a steady flame appears. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if it is dry. Wet logs burn worse, and they also smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the firebox door and use the blower to adjust the combustion intensity. Do not forget to periodically add new portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.

Modernization of the design

A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can provide a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Some of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly modified. This is done in the following ways:

The steps we have given will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you don’t find a sample for 200 liters, you can take one for 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to add firewood more often.

Brick walls are built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulators.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By lengthening the horizontal part of the chimney - pass it through the entire room in order to take away maximum thermal energy from combustion products.

We will offer you a few more ideas for upgrading a stove made from a 200-liter barrel. For example, you can line its interior with fire bricks. For organization hob use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat transfer - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with horizontal barrels.

Interesting potbelly stove with stonework

A 200-liter barrel can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or fittings;
large round river stones;
chimney pipes.

There is no ash pan in such a stove, so cleaning will be some difficulties. We immediately recommend making the firebox door level with the bottom of the barrel - this makes it more convenient to remove the ash. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.

To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a 200-liter barrel and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part we cut out a door for storing firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that large stones are needed so that combustion products can easily pass through the space between them.

Long-burning wood stove made from a barrel

The model offered to your attention heating stove long burning, which its developer himself recognizes as the most optimal and accurate after several manufacturing options. Take a look first at the prototype, so to speak, of the Stropuv factory long-burning boiler of Lithuanian manufacturers.

But such a stove (photo below) can be purchased in an online store.

In the homemade we describe wood stove long burning from a barrel is borrowed from the principle of burning wood or other fuel from above, with the fire lowering down as the wood burns, which just has the effect of prolonging the process. It was made for the first time several years ago by a man named bubafonya ( bubafonja- his nickname on the forum where he presented his idea). Therefore, his device and the stoves made by others following his example were called #8220 bubafoni stove #8221 or simply #8220 bubafonya #8221 in online discussions. The stove is really interesting and it is worth studying in more detail how the master created it. At the end of the article, videos with bubafons of other masters will also be posted.

First, take a look at the diagram of a long-burning stove.

The diagram shows that the stove operates non-standardly, combustion occurs from above, smoke goes into the side hole and further into the chimney. The pancake goes down as the fuel burns out.

What materials were used?

Iron barrel 200 liters metal circle (pancake) with a diameter slightly smaller than the barrel 4 channels or corners 50-60 mm high with a length less than the radius of the pancake 100 mm pipe for blowing 150 mm pipe for a chimney 5 meters long.

How Bubafonya assembled the stove.

It was necessary to cut off the top edge of the barrel. After trying many methods, he settled on an angle grinder. So, the top of the barrel was cut off with a grinder.

The result was a neat cylinder, the bottom of which was sealed.

On the contrary, he bent the lid with its edges outwards so that it would not slide off, and placed it on the top of the barrel so that it would sit firmly and not slide off. Next, he took a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, its length was adjusted to equal the height of the barrel. That is, the length of the pipe is equal to the height of the barrel. Using a chisel, the master made a hole in the center of this cover 2 mm larger than the diameter of our 100 mm pipe, that is, the hole diameter was approximately 102 mm. It is better not to weld the hole from the barrel cap, but simply screw in the cap and, during the operation of the long-burning stove, unscrew it and control the combustion process by looking into the firebox.

After this, he marked on the top of the barrel the place to which the chimney pipe would be connected.

At the next step, he made a hole at the marking site and welded a 150 mm pipe to the body. And immediately installed a shut-off valve inside the pipe. The body of the long-burning stove is ready.

Next, the air supply part was made. The author of the stove used another lid from a barrel, but you can take a circle cut out of metal with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the barrel. He took a 100 mm blower pipe and welded it in the center of a pre-cut hole in the internal screen #8211 to the up-and-down horizontal partition. If you repeat the stove, you need to adjust the pancake so that it is slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel by a couple of centimeters around the perimeter. Along the perimeter of the pancake, the edges are bent for greater rigidity so that it does not curl due to high temperature. The photo shows the hole from the cork. The hole in the photo from the plug is open, but it needs to be welded, since during the operation of the oven, gases should flow upward only along the edges of this pancake.

I welded pieces of corners to the bottom of the pancake, but pieces of channel can also be used.

The air supply device is now ready. It is inserted inside the barrel. An adjustable damper is installed at the top of the air supply pipe. I vertically welded a threaded pin to the inner wall of the pipe, and made a hole under this pin at the edge of the damper so that the damper, which is mounted on the stud, would neatly close the pipe. Having installed the damper, I tightened it with a wing nut. By loosening the nut, moving the damper relative to the edge of the pipe and tightening the nut back, you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox.

Finally, the lid was installed on top and now, the finished stove is in front of us.

How to make a chimney pipe.

The optimal pipe height is more than 5 meters for better traction. It is installed next to the stove. It is better to make the lower part on legs. It is strictly necessary to weld a ball valve under the knee. It is needed to drain the condensate created in the pipe. The stove is connected end-to-end to the elbow from the chimney and tightened with a clamp. You need to put fiberglass fabric under the clamp for better sealing. The firewood burns completely. There is little ash produced; you can go a long time, up to 2 weeks, without removing it. However, you need to know that with an increase in ash, the duration of combustion decreases, since the volume of the combustion space becomes smaller.

Laying firewood and lighting a long-burning wood-burning stove.

Let's remove the cover. Let's take out the air supply device. Let's put firewood inside, preferably not higher than the lower edge of the chimney outlet. You can lay firewood with a diameter of up to 20 cm. upper layer We put small chips of firewood. Pour just a little kerosene or waste oil on top of a rag or paper. Then we put the air supply part on top. We put the outer cover on the pipe. We open the blower valve and throw a lit rag there, inside the pipe. As soon as the firewood flares up with a characteristic crackling sound, you can completely close the blower damper. In this mode, it can work for a very long time, all day long.

This is the operating basis. Many craftsmen replicate the bubafoni stove, using not only barrels, but also other suitable blanks and materials.

You can also make such stoves from barrels.

Look at several of the videos presented for options for long-burning stoves.

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

Of the thousands of private farms in Kuban, the farmstead of the Filippovsky pensioners in the Kalininsky district is one of the most visited. And not only because the spouses Vera Ivanovna and Vladimir Vasilyevich successfully grow a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, berries and all kinds of living creatures, from rabbits to ducks. The interest of visitors is aroused by the very methods of farming of these residents of the Boykoponura farm - zealous and modern.

For example, drip irrigation has been established in greenhouses. And to save money on heating them, Estonian barrel technology is used. Once Vladimir Vasilyevich read about her in a magazine. And now I remembered the advice and made a simple unit myself. The stove operates from metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters 24 hours without additional loading. One load requires three small (banana) boxes of firewood. Anything can burn, even damp logs, but how? better firewood, the more heat.

Firewood is placed tightly in the barrel, in a “well”, up to chimney opening No. 2, where a pipe is installed to remove smoke into the chimney pipe. If the connection in this place is not tight, the cracks must be covered with clay or asbestos. The chimney draft should be checked with a match. If it is clogged, the oven will not work and the smoke will go in the opposite direction. Therefore, it is advisable to take a chimney pipe of a larger diameter, from 150 to 250 mm, made of light steel, as for drainage or ventilation.

To ignite, says the owner of the farmstead, you need to put wood chips or paper near the chimney. I myself water this place (in the drawing it is indicated by the number 3) with diesel fuel. When the smoke goes into the chimney, an air pipe with a cross is placed on the firewood, like for a Christmas tree. Air enters inside through pipe No. 1 with a diameter of 60-100 mm and is supplied to the sides along the cross. The crosspiece can be made from a channel, or from the corner of an old bed - two pieces per side to make a channel with the ribs down. A tin cover is put on and welded onto the crosspiece. The diameter of the lid should be 40-50 mm smaller than the internal diameter of the barrel to create a gap between the lid and the walls through which the smoke rises and heats the barrel. Burning is slow, heat is transferred to the walls of the barrel. There is no open fire, so the oven is safe to use. It can be placed in a chicken coop, greenhouse, workshop.

According to the manager of the Kalininsky additional office of Rosselkhozbank, Oleg Solovyov, the Filippovsky spouses are one of the best clients of the Bank in the area. Three times they took out loans to develop their farm, which financial support helped to grow in new directions. Their farmstead can be called exemplary. By the way, the regional deputies, who visited the Filippovsky farm before discussing the issue “On the state of development of small forms of farming in the agro-industrial complex of the Kalinin region,” decided to generalize and promote their experience. And the chairman of the Legislative Assembly of the region, Vladimir Beketov, recommended to the deputy, the head of the Krasnodar compressor plant, to establish industrial production of a furnace based on the “Estonian barrel” technology. But Vladimir Vasilyevich continues to improve the design and soon, perhaps, an improved model will appear.

Dear readers, if you have invented or improved and are successfully using any equipment or device on your farm, please share your experience. We will be happy to publish your invention in this section of the Agro-Sputnik website. Description, photographs and necessarily the author’s signature are ready to be accepted for email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands

Probably more than one person wonders how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands? and how to make a potbelly stove correctly?

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove is a small-sized stove made from metal sheets. Such a stove can heat up a room very quickly (if it is not very large), but it also cools down just as quickly after the fuel stops burning.

If we talk about their shape, they can be very different (round, square, rectangular, conical or in the form of something), it depends on the imagination of the person who makes it.

But in this article we will focus on a hexagonal potbelly stove made from a barrel. Have you ever thought about how to make a potbelly stove out of a barrel?

1 – casing (barrel)

2 – fuel tank cap

3 – outlet pipe

5 – cover handle

6 – oven

7 – damper

8 – firebox

9 – ash compartment (ash pan)

10 – supporting bricks

11 – felt pad

12 – a metal sheet.

In the picture you see a potbelly stove, in the development of which publicly available materials were used. First of all, we needed a barrel, the capacity of which is 200 liters, the height of the barrel is 850 millimeters. and the diameter is 600 millimeters. A hexagon with a side equal to 290-300 millimeters. This makes it possible to install standard stove appliances

This stove is very different from many homemade stoves of the same class. It differs as follows:

the stove has a large firebox
has an increased area due to the fact that the fuel combustion chamber is hexagonal
volumetric ash pan with air regulator
volumetric oven with lining
The oven retains heat for a long time.

In addition, this stove has a good convection effect - this is the transfer of heat through air that passes through the channels located between the fuel block and the casing.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - assembly procedure

We will cook the fuel block, therefore, in order to prevent mistakes, it is necessary to make a template that can be cut out of thick paper (cardboard) or plywood.

1 – oven

2 – lining compartment

3 – fuel tank housing

4 – front panel of the ash compartment

5 – corner of the oven door frame

6 – upper plate of the lining compartment

7 – lining niche

8 – upper stop

9 – side panel fuel block housing

10 – support rod

11 #8212 intermediate plate

12 – corner of the firebox door frame

13, 14, 15 – firebox bottom plates

16 – grate saddle

17 – asbestos gasket

18 – door shell

19 – side wall of the ash pit

20 – door fastening bolt

21 – lower rack

22 – damper mounting bracket.

The template should be in the form of a regular hexagon, the sides of which are equal to 290 millimeters. Having made a template, you will not have any problems with assembly, you just need to assemble everything according to the template, attach it, and you can start welding.

oven
lining compartment
ash compartment.

Take a look first at the prototype, so to speak, of the Stropuv factory long-burning boiler of Lithuanian manufacturers.
In the homemade long-burning wood-burning stove we are describing from a barrel, the principle of burning wood or other fuel from above is borrowed, with the fire lowering down as the wood burns, which just has the effect of prolonging the process. It was made for the first time several years ago by a man named bubafonya ( bubafonja-his nickname on the forum where he presented his idea). Therefore, his design and the stoves made by others following his example were called “bubafoni stove” or simply “bubafonya” in online discussions. The stove is really interesting and it is worth studying in more detail how the master created it. At the end of the article, videos with bubafons of other masters will also be posted.

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

We will divide all the work into successive steps.

First we make the body:

1. Remove the weld at the top of the container and smooth out the sharp edges. So, we got a cylinder and a lid for it.

2. Using a hammer, bend the edges of the structure inward and the top element outward.

3. Turn the lid over and put it on the cylinder.

4. Using a chisel, cut an opening in the middle of the lid into which we insert the blower pipe. The hole diameter is 102 mm. This is quite enough for the free passage of a rolled metal product.

If the barrel had a stopper, the hole needs to be welded. However, some prefer to leave it, creating the opportunity to control the combustion process: unscrew the cap and look inside.

5. In the upper part of the barrel, we cut out an opening into which we weld a piece of chimney pipe 25 cm long. A shut-off damper needs to be installed inside the product.

For better rigidity, the edges of the pancake must be bent. This way it will not deform when exposed to high temperatures.

In the middle of the circle you need to cut a hole into which the blower pipe is welded.

The channels are attached to the underside of the pancake.

The air supply device is ready. Now we place it inside the cylinder.

Assembly of the structure

An adjustment valve is installed in the upper part of the blower pipe, the diameter of which coincides with the size of the rolled metal product. A threaded rod is welded inside the pipe. It must be positioned vertically. It is necessary to cut a hole on the side of the valve so that the valve, when it hits the stud, tightly closes the pipe.

After installing the damper, you need to tighten it using the wing nut. By loosening this element, it can be moved. Loosening and tightening the fastener allows you to regulate the entry of air masses into the firebox.

The last stage is installation of the cover. Now the furnace structure is ready for operation.

Chimney installation

At the final stage, a channel with a diameter of 150 mm is installed. It is necessary to adhere to this value, otherwise there is a possibility of incomplete removal of combustion products.

A pipe longer than 5 m provides good traction. It should be installed directly next to the stove. It is desirable that it stands on legs. The lower part of the pipe is welded.

To provide for the drainage of condensate formed in the pipe, a ball valve must be welded under the elbow. It is worth noting that the presence of this element is prerequisite. If the condensate freezes, the weld may break. In addition, there is a possibility of liquid entering the fuel combustion device.

How to heat properly

When the Bubafonya stove has been assembled from a barrel, you can begin heating the room. How to do this correctly? You need to remove the cover, take out the air supply device, and put the firewood, but not higher than the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If the logs are placed in a vertical position, more of them will fit, and even large firewood will burn to the end.

We lay a layer of wood chips on top, a rag or paper on them, which needs to be lightly poured with kerosene.

After the fuel has been added, it is necessary to place a pancake on the air supply device, and then the stove lid. Next, open the air damper and throw a lighted rag or paper inside the pipe supplying air. It will not be possible to ignite with matches due to the strong draft that extinguishes them.

When the wood burns well, it will begin to crackle. Then you need to completely close the blower damper, which will ensure the unit burns for a long time.

How to legally burn garbage at your dacha

Now that we have understood the theory, let's find out what places and methods of burning garbage are available to an ordinary summer resident who wants, while observing the laws, to get rid of branches, leaves and other plant debris.

Waste incineration barrel

Most often, summer residents use metal barrels with or without a bottom to burn garbage. It’s not difficult to get such a container - they are inexpensive, and can work for several seasons. Of course, in a couple of years the barrel will burn out and, according to the Ministry of Emergency Situations, will become unsuitable for burning garbage, but in this case you can always buy a new one.

Such a barrel should be installed 25 m from buildings and groups of trees; you should not prepare a mineralized firebreak, but you still have to take care of something additional. Firstly, according to the standards, the bottom of the barrel will have to be cut off and placed on a hole dug in the ground. Secondly, it is necessary to prepare a lid that can cover the entire barrel and stop the draft. Finally, you will need to have water or sand on hand to quickly extinguish the fire.

Homemade waste incinerator

To some, the barrel seems too sloppy and short-lived option. In this case, homemade ones are used metal stoves for waste incineration, made from steel tanks, waste gas cylinders, metal circles and other materials. the main task such an oven must be spacious and airtight.

The easiest way to make a stove is to weld a spacious box with a lid, a vent and a chimney from thick metal sheets. You will need to install it on brick or block supports, and dig a hole under the bottom.

Stone or brick oven for burning waste

The stone waste incinerator is durable, aesthetic, multifunctional and spacious. True, you won’t be able to move it, so immediately think about in which part of the site you do not plan to build buildings over time.

However, if you already have a stone stove, for example in summer kitchen or bath, then burn plant remains You can also use it while cooking dinner or heating the room.

Branded incinerator

The easiest (but not the cheapest) option is to buy and install a branded incinerator with a chimney. Similar stoves can be found in construction and gardening stores or at construction markets, and they cost from 9,000 to 16,000 rubles. There are also portable options without a chimney - they will cost the summer resident only 5,000-7,000 rubles.

Such a stove allows you not only to burn garbage on the site, but also to conveniently remove ash, do without a firebreak, or change the location of the stove several times during the season. By the way, some models also have a special tile for cooking.

Incinerator pit

If you don’t have a barrel or stove, but you need to burn the garbage, prepare a special pit according to the recommendations of the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Move 50 m away from buildings and groups of trees.
Dig a hole 1 m in diameter and at least 30 cm deep.
Clear the area within a radius of 10 m from the pit from dead wood, logging residues, dry grass and other flammable materials.
Prepare a 40 cm wide firebreak along the edge of the cleared area (remove the turf or fill it with sand).
Prepare tools and water to extinguish the fire and then start burning garbage in the pit.

Of course, this is a rather labor-intensive method, complicated by the fact that on the territory of the dachas it is difficult to find an area where nothing has been built and is not growing. Therefore, a pit where garbage is burned can be organized together with neighbors, in a vacant lot.

As you can see, there is no ban on burning garbage, there are only rules that must be followed. It is possible to equip a place in accordance with the requirements of the law in one day, and after spending this time, you will look the fire inspector and neighbors in the eye with a clear conscience.

Barrel for burning garbage in the country

In practice, three variants of such oven devices made from barrels that do not have a bottom have been used.

In the first option, first a small fire is built on a metal tray from some dry waste (birch bark, wood chips, etc.). After our fire flares up, bricks or stones are placed next to it, on which our barrel-pipe without a bottom is placed on top. Air enters the holes formed from below, which helps combustion. Waste burning occurs intensely and it is constantly necessary to ensure that our flame does not rise too high and does not throw sparks onto the site. But there is also a drawback to this option; each time you use it, you need to install and remove the barrel.
The second option, based on the same barrel, is simpler and does not have the disadvantages of the first option. To install it, you first need to prepare the site. Pour a layer of sand 10-15 centimeters thick onto the selected location, lay a metal sheet on it, on which a fence-support is made of bricks in the shape of the letter P. We lay a metal grate on top, and finally install our barrel (of course, also without a bottom) . So we fill our stove with waste from above, and build a fire from below, between the bricks. The resulting ash, after burning through the waste, we calmly remove from below. During rains, to prevent the ash from getting wet, the top of the barrel must be covered with a lid.
The third version of our device is a little close to the second, only it is necessary to cut out a window measuring approximately 450x200mm at the bottom of the barrel, and also punch several additional side holes for air supply. The bottom of the barrel also rests on bricks with a grate, which can be made from a perforated metal sheet. Unlike the second option, here 40x60mm holes are cut out on top of the barrel and a metal lid is installed where you can pre-dry garden waste. All these minor additions provide more favorable conditions for burning waste than the first or second option. Moreover, here combustion occurs more evenly and intensely. At the same time, the time required to burn waste is reduced significantly.

Anyone who wants to tinker can make it more functional and beautiful. If you do it well and for a long time, you can use a piece of used water pipe of large diameter and weld a reliable stove that will serve you for many years. One thing - it turns out to be a little expensive!

Garden fireplaces and garbage disposals (garden waste)

I would especially like to note that these are garden fireplaces, which can increasingly be found on our garden plots. Such fireplaces perform not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one, thereby decorating. The designs of such fireplaces are very diverse, but, as a rule, each of them has three units that ensure safety in operation. This is a waste burning area well protected from different winds, an arched vault and a high exhaust pipe that reliably extinguishes sparks.

In conclusion about burning garbage at the dacha

By the way, in many regions, employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations often began to conduct raids and fine people for burning household waste in the garden that releases TOXIC substances! Remember this and be more careful!

However, it is better to dispose of garden waste in other ways, for example:

branches, foliage and other organic matter are great for warm beds;
sick plants or with signs of damage can be buried in a separate hole, if possible, then outside the site;
cardboard, paper - can be used for mulching beds;
well, polyethylene, plastic, cans and other small items can be taken to the city, in a bag and disposed of in a garbage container.

These are the gardening tricks our gardeners resort to to get rid of garden waste.

And remember, NEVER BURN PLASTIC PRODUCTS, as they release toxic substances that are very harmful to you. environment, and your body too!

How do you get rid of all kinds of garbage on your property?

Interesting potbelly stove with stonework

A 200-liter barrel can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or fittings;
large round river stones;
chimney pipes.

Please note that large stones are needed so that combustion products can easily pass through the space between them.

The stove will need a strong, non-combustible base with a metal sheet in front of the firebox - it will be quite heavy, so the legs must be strong or absent altogether. The barrel is placed on the base before the stones are placed in it. Otherwise, you won’t budge it later. After installing the stove in its normal place, weld the lid and connect the chimney - you can start kindling. To improve traction, it is recommended to drill several holes with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 mm - air will be sucked through them.

Methods for burning garden waste

Today, several ways of burning such waste are known.

Burning garden waste on an open fire

The first and predominant method of our summer residents is burning garden waste on an open fire. This is especially noticeable in early spring and in autumn. On gardeners' plots you can regularly find blazing fires and columns of smoke rising high above the ground.

LIGHTING AN OPEN FIRE IS VERY DANGEROUS, and is also harmful to the soil, since under the influence of high temperatures from a fire, the earth loses its fertility, and all soil microorganisms located in the combustion area die.

And if you do not have the opportunity to make a fire in another place, then still build it on a thick metal pallet, which is best raised above the ground with the help of some kind of pads: stones, bricks and other available materials.

Do not light a large fire right away, as there is a high chance of losing control over it.
It’s better to throw it in small portions, but more often, and the combustion will be more efficient this way.
In windy weather, it is better to avoid this activity.

Burning garden waste in an old barrel

The second method does not have the disadvantages of the first and consists in the fact that a wide variety of containers are used for combustion, which have already served their purpose and can no longer be used for their intended purpose.

The most suitable option for burning waste is an old metal barrel.
This container will take up little space.
It can be installed on permanent place, away from trees and various buildings.

In order to use a barrel, it must first be prepared. It’s simple, remove the bottom with a chisel, and then bend all the uneven and torn edges with a hammer.

Manufacturing Instructions

During operation of the stove, its body heats up strongly, so such a heating apparatus must be placed on a monolithic fire-resistant surface. This could be a layer of concrete, asphalt concrete, metal sheet, or just earth. The stove must have its own chimney; connecting the device to the chimney of other heating devices is prohibited.

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical arrangement of the barrel.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove made from a barrel

The manufacturing process of a vertical furnace model looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to allow loading of firewood;

The door can be purchased in advance or a cut-out part of the wall can be adapted: hinges and a handle can be welded to it, making it convenient to close and open the combustion chamber;

A little lower than the combustion door, cut another hole for mounting the blower door. To make the blower itself, a thick-walled pipe, cut lengthwise, is used. It should be able to move along the metal slats, but not be completely removed;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the container, install grate bars - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular structure made of reinforcement. To fix them, use a regular steel corner.

Option 1 - mesh grid

Option 2 - reinforcement

The bottom of the barrel needs to be welded metal legs or simply install the structure on bricks;

Role hob will be made of steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the furnace;

Brick lining (optional)

To protect the walls of the container from burning, the inner surface of the firebox can be additionally lined with refractory bricks, giving it a semicircular shape using a grinder. Masonry should be carried out using a kiln mortar containing 1 part fatty clay and 2 parts sand. The mixture is made with a minimum amount of water and should have a thick consistency;

Next we make a chimney (more details below).

A hole for a chimney with a diameter of at least 15 cm is cut out from the side of the container in its upper part (or side). The height of the pipe must be at least 4 m. When installing it, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

It is advisable not to install the pipe strictly vertically; the presence of horizontal and inclined sections increases the amount of heat received, but the number of turns should not exceed 3 times;

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent condensation, the part of the chimney facing the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

To reduce the load on the device body, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

On the chimney of a potbelly stove, you can install a rotary valve or a valve that moves along guides. Using this element, you can adjust the intensity of heated smoke removal and completely block the chimney during the period when the stove is not heated.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a potbelly stove made from a 200 liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - horizontal version

Scheme horizontal stove from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the container will be as follows:

Place the barrel on its side;

To ensure stability of the structure at the bottom of the container, you need to weld legs from a steel angle or small diameter pipes;

In the upper part, cut an opening for storing fuel the full width of the barrel to make it easier to remove the grille and reflector;

Install a metal reflector inside the container, which will separate the combustion chamber from the chimney and the grate (you can make it yourself from reinforcement rods;

Cut another opening lower to allow air flow into the firebox and clean the stove from ash, or make it a separate structure by welding the ash pan. As a result, the design will look like this:

Inside view

Weld hinges on one side of each hole and install doors of the appropriate size. For tightness, it is recommended to cover them with asbestos-cement cord;

In the back of the container, make a hole for the chimney and weld the pipe. Further installation of the chimney pipe is carried out in the same way as for the vertical model.

You can also weld a sheet of metal on top of the barrel and use it as a hob.

Final design

Two barrel oven

One of the highest quality barrel stoves, made with our own hands, based on the large containers available to us. The stove for kindling wood consists of two barrels: one for 200 liters, the second for 100 liters. A certain novelty, which not everyone will think of, is the increase in heat transfer due to an additional container, the walls of which are heated by hot air rising up to the pipe. The fuel also burns out in the second barrel.

The stainless steel pipe is made from truck exhaust. The pipe is specially made curved to increase heat transfer into the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if you use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model implements just such an opportunity!

What does the law say about burning waste in a barrel?

Before using a barrel to burn garbage in your country house, it is better to carefully study the law.

Important! Russian legislation establishes a ban on burning waste in the city and on summer cottages(ST 20.4 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation). . Environmental services also report environmental damage caused by burning dried plants.

Burning plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast areas and end very badly. Fires for burning grass lit in the city have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthma and other diseases.

Environmental services also say environmental damage is caused by burning dried plants. Burning plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast areas and end very badly. Fires for burning grass lit in the city have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthma and other diseases.

Often by employees of various environmental services and service inspectors fire safety raids are carried out on personal plots in order to identify fire safety violators and carry out explanatory work with them. However, many “arsonists” ignore warnings until they are brought to administrative responsibility.

The ban on burning waste is stipulated in the Federal Law “On the Protection of Atmospheric Air”.

Note! It is prohibited to burn plant and other waste in open areas. summer cottages, it is also prohibited to use barrels, trash cans, and containers for burning garbage. . For failure to comply with the provisions of the law, a citizen may be held accountable and subject to a fine.

For failure to comply with the provisions of the law, a citizen may be held accountable and subject to a fine. The following fines are provided for different categories of persons:

for ordinary citizens – 2,000 – 3,000 rubles;
for citizens who are officials - 6,000 - 15,000 rubles;
For individual entrepreneurs– 20,000 – 30,000 rub. (or suspension entrepreneurial activity for a period of up to 90 days);
for legal entities – 150,000 – 200,000 rubles. (or suspension of activities for 90 days).

The amount of fines may vary depending on the region of the country and the time of year (for example, during the established fire regime period in May, the amount of fines increases for all persons).

In addition to such monetary compensation, persons whose waste burning led to a fire will have to pay certain amounts of money for environmental damage caused.

Environmental services employees recommend that summer residents use compost pits. To dispose of other waste, it is necessary to resort to the services of specialized companies for the removal and/or processing of household waste.

This video talks about the ban on burning waste in summer cottages and how service employees identify violators.

Having studied legal aspects, we can say that it is still possible to burn vegetable waste at the dacha, but at the same time, all the requirements of fire safety rules established by the Ministry of Emergency Situations must be complied with, and places for burning must also be agreed upon with fire service employees.

Modernization of the design

Brick walls are built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulators.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By lengthening the horizontal part of the chimney - pass it through the entire room in order to take away maximum thermal energy from combustion products.

We will offer you a few more ideas for upgrading a stove made from a 200-liter barrel. For example, you can line its interior with fire bricks. To organize the hob, use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat transfer - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with horizontal barrels.

Types of stoves

Most often, you can make 2 simple models from a barrel with your own hands.

Vertical model

The barrel is installed vertically on legs.

It is recommended to use a cut out part of the barrel for the door. It is installed on hinges that are attached to the barrel and to the door. The hinges are riveted as follows: one part on the barrel, the other on the door. Moreover, the loops are located outside. Door latch is prepared from two parts: a handle is welded onto the door, a valve is welded onto the barrel, made from a corner.
Then comes the installation of grates: a metal plate with holes. Ordinary corners are suitable for securing them. The blower should be made of a dense pipe into which a damper is inserted. She must move, but do not remove it completely. The damper is adjustable with bolts, with quarter turn turnover The blower opens to maximum when igniting. The shutter is closed at night almost to a minimum, then the stove simply heats up, but does not go out and does not increase the strength of the fire.
The top of the barrel is cut round hole, there chimney pipe is welded. It is better to cut the hole in the form of triangles, running at angles from the center to the beginning of the cutout. When they are bent, a hole will appear, and metal remains for riveting.
A grate is installed inside the barrel. It is needed to maintain the integrity of the bottom. The grate will prevent it from burning out and will help retain heat for a long time.

Additionally, steel wire is welded on top of the barrel. She will play the role hob. You can boil a kettle, heat or cook food. The vertical model is quite simple to manufacture and has many options for use: in the country, in a private residential building, in a summer kitchen, in a hunting or fishing lodge.

The size of the firewood is selected according to the size of the firebox. The entire manufacturing process is shown in the video. The wizard shows all the stages and reveals possible nuances that arise during the work. The video shows how a barrel that had color loses it. It will burn out quite quickly, almost immediately after the first fire. The oven will have a metallic color. To strengthen the front part, you can weld metal on top, and make the door from a dense piece of metal.

Horizontal model

200 liter barrel installed horizontally on the surface, in a lying position. It is recommended to immediately install the future stove on legs or other support. The height of the racks at which the barrel will be installed is chosen by the manufacturer. He is guided by the size of the room where the potbelly stove will be used. How to make this model with your own hands, told and shown on video. Almost most of the stages are similar to the vertical method.

They drill into the bottom of the future furnace ash holes.
A container for ash, an ash pan, is bent from a metal sheet and welded to the bottom of the barrel. The size of the ash pan is approximately 1/3 of the height of the barrel.
The ash container should there must be a door to clean the ash, it will affect the strength of the fire in the stove.
The doors for the furnace firebox are made from cut barrel bottom.
The chimney pipe is installed on the back wall of the barrel or on the top. If for pipe insertion chimney chose top of the barrel, it is better to place it closer to the back wall.

All difficult moments or issues of installing a horizontal model can also be viewed in the video. People often try to make it with their own hands for installation in garages. In addition, the stove can be easily heated in a car with an open awning, in a tent, or on the street. This potbelly stove will heat the area approximately 30 sq. m. A good model for a camp bath, for a long stay in the forest.

How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands

Probably more than one person wonders how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands? and how to make a potbelly stove correctly?

If we talk about their shape, they can be very different (round, square, rectangular, conical or in the form of something), it depends on the imagination of the person who makes it.

But in this article we will focus on a hexagonal potbelly stove made from a barrel. Have you ever thought about how to make a potbelly stove out of a barrel?

1 – casing (barrel)

2 – fuel tank cap

3 – outlet pipe

5 – cover handle

6 – oven

7 – damper

8 – firebox

9 – ash compartment (ash pan)

10 – supporting bricks

11 – felt pad

12 – metal sheet.

This stove is very different from many homemade stoves of the same class. It differs as follows:

the stove has a large firebox
has an increased area due to the fact that the fuel combustion chamber is hexagonal
volumetric ash pan with air regulator
volumetric oven with lining
The oven retains heat for a long time.

In addition, this stove has a good convection effect - this is the transfer of heat through air that passes through the channels located between the fuel block and the casing.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - assembly procedure

We will cook the fuel block, therefore, in order to prevent mistakes, it is necessary to make a template that can be cut out of thick paper (cardboard) or plywood.

1 – oven

2 – lining compartment

3 – fuel tank housing

4 – front panel of the ash compartment

5 – corner of the oven door frame

6 – upper plate of the lining compartment

7 – lining niche

8 – upper stop

9 – side panel of the fuel block housing

10 – support rod

11 #8212 intermediate plate

12 – corner of the firebox door frame

13, 14, 15 – firebox bottom plates

16 – grate saddle

17 – asbestos gasket

18 – door shell

19 – side wall of the ash pit

20 – door fastening bolt

21 – lower rack

22 – damper mounting bracket.

oven
lining compartment
ash compartment.

1 – bottom

Garbage should be burned as far as possible from dry vegetation and flammable materials.
The fireplace must not be left unattended.
Do not get carried away with burning plastic and polyethylene: combustion products release toxic substances.
Do not burn garbage in dry, hot or windy weather.
Near the fireplace there should be a “kit” for extinguishing a fire - sand and water.
Do not place the fireplace on dry grass, boards or other flammable materials.
Access of animals and small children to the fire should be limited.

Burning should be carried out as far as possible from buildings, dry vegetation and combustible materials

Features of operation

When operating the stove, it is necessary to alternate its lighting cycles, which include:

fuel storage;

ignition of the stove;

direct combustion process with room heating;

cleaning of ash products from the combustion and blower sections.

The most important stage is the placement of fuel, which must be placed in a certain order to facilitate the ignition process. First you need to put paper and thin dry firewood on the grate, light a fire and close the door.

Once the kindling material has ignited, you can add larger logs.

Wood must be loaded carefully to prevent the fire from dying out. Once the wood has been fully loaded, the fire door must be closed tightly.

The draft in a potbelly stove can be adjusted by using a valve on the chimney or by slightly opening the ash door.

While the stove is burning, you must not touch its body to avoid getting burned.

To restore draft after a long period of burning, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Method one. Upgraded barrel

Agree, the options described above using a metal barrel are hardly able to decorate your site. Therefore, you can do it differently.

First you need a diagram future design, let's compose it. It will look something like this.

Preparatory activities

As for the materials, more of them will be required than in any of the methods already known to us. So, in addition to the barrel, you need to prepare:

5-meter metal profile (we will cut it into five equal sections);
5-meter steel rod;
a pair of loops;
1 m2 of welded mesh;
spark arrester (the diameter of its fasteners should be 11.5 centimeters);
200 grams of wire;
1.5-meter tin pipe with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters;
degreaser;
a handle with a wooden attachment attached to it;
bolts - 6 pieces, the same number of nuts;
electric jigsaw, metal files for it;
20 self-tapping screws with wide caps;
metal drill with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters;
grinder, circles for it - emery and for metal;
Bulgarian herself;
fireproof paint;
brushes (as an option, we can use a sprayer);
electric drill;
jigsaw

Having prepared everything you need, we begin to build a garbage stove for our dacha with our own hands.

The working process

Cut out the door. To do this, draw a straight line on the bottom to which this door will be attached. We cut along the line with a grinder, while making every effort not to touch the side walls.

We make a hole in one of the corners of the formed cut. It is important that it is close to the side wall of the structure and directly on the cut line. From this point we will move forward with a jigsaw.

We insert the jigsaw into the hole and carefully cut out the bottom of the barrel. We do not touch its upper part. We move extremely close to the edges of the barrel. A grinder, of course, is not suitable for this - only a jigsaw.

We make several holes in the door through which air will flow. We do them at the bottom, you can do them in any order.

If necessary, clean the barrel from paint or rust using a grinder with an emery disc.

We build trestles. For this we use five pieces of metal profile. The goats will consist of a pair of crosses connected by a rod. We connect the profile strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, for which we make a pair of holes in each of them and tighten them with bolts.

We degrease and paint the barrel, and do not forget about the elements of the goats. It is advisable to carry out these procedures in a disassembled state. We paint all the elements in several layers, after each layer we wait for the paint to dry completely.

We collect goats. We start this a day after painting. Be sure to place washers under the nuts and securely tighten all structural elements. The resulting strength is quite enough for the barrel and the additional weight of the garbage.
We install hinges and handles. To do this, we use a screwdriver and screws with wide caps.

Note! It is advisable to install the hinges with an assistant, as the door will constantly fall through. .

We form a hole for the chimney. At the top of the barrel we draw a circle with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters.

We equip our dacha garbage stove with a chimney with our own hands. We install it on the “petals” so that they are inside. After this, we screw the pipe to the “petals” in several places with self-tapping screws so that it does not come off.

We install the grate. We do everything as shown in the image below.

Install the cover. We secure it with clamps, although we can resort to a homemade design made from bolts.

As a result, we got this design. That's it, the garbage stove is ready, you can start using it!

How to make a Russian stove with your own hands

Previously, we talked about how to make a real Russian stove yourself; in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Choosing a quality barrel

To make a potbelly stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, and metallurgical industries for storing and transporting technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium liquid glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

bulk - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with open and closed top, and also differ in the thickness of the bottom, lid and shell.

Any of these containers can be used as a potbelly stove if you first thoroughly clean and rinse its inner surface. However, the thinner the walls of the container, the faster they will burn out and the stove will fail. Therefore, for a potbelly stove you need to choose a product with a metal thickness of more than 2 mm.

Expert opinion
Nikolay Davydov
Stove maker with 15 years of experience

Well, the best option is a stainless steel barrel. High-alloy stainless steel is most resistant to high temperatures in the fuel combustion zone, which means a stove made from it will serve for a longer period.

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

For example, drip irrigation has been established in greenhouses. And to save money on heating them, Estonian barrel technology is used. Once Vladimir Vasilyevich read about her in a magazine. And now I remembered the advice and made a simple unit myself. A stove made from a metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters operates for 24 hours without additional loading. One load requires three small (banana) boxes of firewood. Anything can burn, even damp logs, but the better the wood, the more heat.

“To ignite,” says the owner of the farmstead, “you need to put wood chips or paper near the chimney. I myself water this place (in the drawing it is indicated by the number 3) with diesel fuel. When the smoke goes into the chimney, an air pipe with a cross is placed on the firewood, like for a Christmas tree. Air enters inside through pipe No. 1 with a diameter of 60-100 mm and is supplied to the sides along the cross. The crosspiece can be made from a channel, or from the corner of an old bed - two pieces per side to make a channel with the ribs down. A tin cover is put on and welded onto the crosspiece. The diameter of the lid should be 40-50 mm smaller than the internal diameter of the barrel to create a gap between the lid and the walls through which the smoke rises and heats the barrel. Burning is slow, heat is transferred to the walls of the barrel. There is no open fire, so the oven is safe to use. It can be placed in a chicken coop, greenhouse, workshop.

Dear readers, if you have invented or improved and are successfully using any equipment or device on your farm, please share your experience. We will be happy to publish your invention in this section of the Agro-Sputnik website. Descriptions, photographs and, of course, the author's signature are ready to be received by email. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any equipment, the Bubafonya stove has both positive and negative sides. Among the advantages, the following are noted:

long burning period;
uncomplicated operating conditions;
simplicity of design;
low cost of fuel raw materials;
cheap components;
availability self-installation equipment, subject to having skills in working with a welding machine;
easy transportation due to small size and weight.

The disadvantages include the following:

Difficulties in maintenance: it is inconvenient to clean the bottom of the tank and remove combustion products, namely soot and ash.
The appearance of condensation on the pipe walls, which leads to a decrease in efficiency.
The classic version of the stove is characterized by insufficient heat accumulation. To correct this point, you should construct an additional water jacket, cover the stove with heat-insulating material, or make brickwork.
Heating the bottom of the fuel tank requires placing non-combustible material underneath it or constructing a small foundation.
The need for ventilation in the room.

So, we looked at the main points of operation and characteristics of the Bubafonya stove. Now we’ll tell you how to make such a model with your own hands.

Rules for installing a stove-stove

To ensure that you do not have problems and all sorts of hassles with the stove, it should be installed following certain safety rules:

The oven should only be installed on a fire-resistant surface. You can make it yourself using tiles or bricks. Walls located close to the stove must also be protected from overheating. The best effect can be achieved by using specialized drywall, as well as any other non-combustible material;
Under no circumstances should flammable materials be placed near the firebox;
It should also be equipped great system ventilation in the room in which the stove will be located. This is a very important factor, since the concentration of carbon monoxide in the room must be reduced to zero;
In order to make a potbelly stove, you need to use only high-quality material.

Video: do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

Making a potbelly stove is absolutely simple, as you can see. For such a task, you will only need available materials, which are often found in almost every person’s garage or dacha. A potbelly stove will please the eye if all the details are thought through to the smallest detail and made very carefully.

Chimney – important element the entire oven. It should consist of two parts: vertical and inclined (horizontal). Remnants of smoke exhaust burn out in the inclined part of the chimney. This part gives heat to the room, it is calculated that almost a quarter of the heat volume comes from the pipe. To avoid burns from accidental contact with the chimney, it is separated with a mesh or cylinder. It is also recommended to close the pipe thermal insulation material.
The grate is in a barrel design. By using the right approach to grates, a conventional model can be transformed into a slow-burning design with efficient heat transfer. To do this, you need to remove the grate while using the oven. Burning will become slow and even. If you plan such actions, the grate is made of light metal or a set of cast iron small gratings.
The simplest model of potbelly stove is gas. A gas burner is installed in the firebox. A stove using such economical fuel will be a profitable device. Combustion products will fly away through the pipe, giving off heat to the room.

The appearance of the stove can be improved. There are a few in various ways:

Brick lining.
Metal welded structures for finishing the barrel base with a specific pattern, carved legs and doors.

Potbelly stoves are a fairly simple product, but it is precisely for this quality that they are considered a brilliant creation of man. After watching a video on making a stove, you can simply repeat everything that its authors suggest. DIY work will be beneficial on the farm, will solve many problems and problems. The stove will be useful for fisherman, hunters and just summer residents. Not only is it easy to make, but it is also quite easy to transport. The product will not be difficult to store and install.

First firebox

Well, when almost everything is ready, we fire up the stove for the first time, after all, we need to check whether there is draft. We threw in some wood, unscrewed the plug, it was a vent, we will modernize it a little later. Of course, we are already beginning to understand that it was in vain that we did not first burn the paint barrel.

At first, smoke poured into the garage, since the stove was not warmed up and the draft was too weak; later, for kindling without smoke, I warmed up the air inside the stove gas burner, and then I kindle the wood, and there is no smell of smoke inside the garage when kindling. So in the photo there is the first firebox of the stove, now it will begin to burn from the paint. We installed iron sheets to protect our unfinished walls in the garage.

After 15-20 minutes, the barrel of the stove heated up and began to burn, smelling terribly of burnt paint, they opened all the doors and gates wide

Everything burned within about 30-40 minutes, while it became warm in the garage, even with the gates open, excess heat from the stove was felt on the face, although it was not cold outside. somewhere -5 degrees.

Furnace assembly procedure

From the video of the film you can understand how to properly assemble a potbelly stove.

Prepare a template for a cardboard product in life size. Sample is a hexagon.
Collect all the details in according to the drawing.
Weld the furnace components. There are 3 of them in the design: oven, lining and blower compartments.

The lining compartment consists of a rear wall, two sidewalls, a bottom and diagonal inserts connecting back wall with sides. The oven has a box and 4 supports.

The blower compartment is a more complex part of the furnace. It consists of the following parts:

2 side walls;
back wall;
saddle for grate;
ash pan bottom;
Front Panel;
frame for securing the door.

It’s easy to do all the details yourself by studying the recommendations and advice from the masters in the video instructions.

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Preparatory work for the production of the furnace

Initially, you need to prepare the necessary materials, equipment and tools.

Barrel selection

For this design, it is better to use stainless steel cylinders or barrels with thick walls. But such materials are difficult to find, and they will be expensive. Therefore, we will consider the option of using the simplest steel 200 liter container with stiffening ribs on the body.

The thickness of their side walls is sufficient, and for the bottom we will use a grate made of reinforcement. Stiffening ribs will strengthen the walls. The simplicity of the design and work will allow you to quickly replace a burnt-out stove after 7-10 years of use, during which time all the work will pay off many times over.

But when purchasing at a metal collection point or when you find a barrel at a landfill, be sure to make sure that gasoline or oil was not stored in it. Such a vessel will need to be pre-rinsed and cleaned of any remaining fuel. Only after making sure that there are no flammable liquids and gases can you start working.

200l barrel

Consumables and their quantity

You will need to prepare a number of blanks for the grate and attaching the grate to the compartment with stones.

These are just the basic materials for the work. We will need to prepare refractory bricks for lining the inside of the firebox. A piece of pipe suitable for a sandwich chimney pipe. All these materials can be purchased before installing the stove and venting the chimney to the roof.

Tools

To carry out the work, prepare:

welding machine:
welding mask and clothing;
electrodes for welding structural steel;
grinder with cleaning and a supply of cutting discs;
metalworking tools;
trowel and container for mixing the solution.

Scheme

Scheme of a barrel stove for a bath

Many people make such a stove with the ability to open the lid and pour steam over the stones. But in this case it goes into the room carbon monoxide. We are making an option where the stove lid will be recessed into the body by 100 mm and a row of stones will be laid on top. In this case, steam lovers will be able to splash water from the bowl onto the bricks without opening the lid.

We will attach the hot water tank to the side. Such a container can be found at a store or made independently from sheet steel. The container will be fixed to the side wall. A hole is made in it to fill in water and a pipe is welded for screwing on the water tap.

Making a stove from a barrel

For now we’ve finished with the pipe, it’s time for the stove, I took a 100 liter metal barrel for these purposes, I think it’s enough for the garage, the size is quite suitable for firewood. I'm going to make a door, but in order not to remove the metal, I decided to make a frame for the door and weld it to the barrel itself. In general, an estimate of the corner in the photo below.

I cut out the corners for the frame, all that remains is to adjust it a little and file down what is in the way.

I cut it out in such a way that the corner was at the same level, and there was no gap left between the frame and the barrel, because the door in the stove should close tightly.

I grabbed a corner right on the barrel itself, all that remained was to cut out the door, but first I welded the frame on all sides to the barrel, including from the inside.

After which we used a grinder to cut out the opening of the stove, the firewood should fit in without any problems, and the ashes also have the ability to be removed.

Next, I took a piece of sheet metal 3-4 mm somewhere, cut it to the size of the opening, and welded a hinge, the usual one that is used for interior doors. He welded it as if standing up, rested the end against the corner, and scalded it.

General view of the door

Law on burning garbage and making fires on the site

The burning of garbage in dachas, garden plots and areas adjacent to private houses is regulated by clause 218 of the Fire Regulations of the Russian Federation, article 20.4 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation and the order of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of January 26, 2016. The most important thing for summer residents is the last document, because it tells in detail, in In what situations is it prohibited to burn garbage, and when and how is it still possible? The full text of the order can be found on the website of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and we will analyze the main postulates.

Burn tires, bags, plastic bottles, film and other materials of artificial origin are prohibited

So, if you are going to burn garbage on or near the site, then you need to equip the site in accordance with the requirements of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and invite a representative of the Fire Inspectorate for approval. The place itself must comply with a number of standards.

When lighting an open fire, the following rules must be observed:

an open fire can be lit in a pit with a depth of at least 30 cm and a diameter of no more than 1 m;
the fire must be 50 m away from all buildings, from coniferous forest– at 100 m, from deciduous – at 30 m;
the area on which the fire is located must be cleared 10 m from dry branches, logging residues, dry grass and other flammable materials;
a mineralized fire protection strip with a width of at least 40 cm should run along the edge of the site;
there must be on site necessary tools and fire extinguishing materials;

After burning, you need to fill the area or container with water or cover it with sand until the burning/smoldering stops completely.

If you use a closed container made of non-combustible materials (barrel, oven, etc.) to burn waste, then the requirements change:

the waste incineration container must be 25 m away from all buildings, 50 m from coniferous forests, and 15 m from deciduous forests;
the area on which the container is located must be cleared 5 m of dry branches, logging residues, dry grass and other flammable materials;
there is no need to create a firebreak;
There should be a metal sheet next to the container that can cover it from above and limit the access of air to the fire;
the person controlling the fire must remain on the site until the end of the fire (smoldering).

An absolute ban on burning garbage and making fires applies: peat soils; when a special fire regime is introduced in the relevant territory; under the canopies coniferous trees; in relation to containers whose walls have a through burnout; with gusts of wind speeds above 5 m/s (for open fire) and 10 m/s (for containers).

Other stove options

It is possible to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a barrel more complex design, these include the hexagonal potbelly stove. For its basis it is taken the same barrel of 200 liters. A hexagon from the components of the future potbelly stove is inserted into it.

If we describe the structure of the furnace from bottom to top, then the order the location will be as follows:

Felt padding for softness and stability of the structure.
Asbestos, or another that protects against fire.
A metal sheet. It protects the floor from possible fire and heating.
Support bricks. They are the legs of a potbelly stove.
Blower compartment. This is a place where ash accumulates.
Firebox. A place to fire wood, coal and other selected fuels.
Damper.
Oven. Place for cooking, heating air.
Lining compartment.
Exit pipe for chimney.

All parts of the hexagon are inserted into the barrel. Doors for the make-up compartment are welded or riveted onto the front panel (part) of the barrel, oven, lining compartment.

A potbelly stove made from a 200-liter barrel can be installed in different rooms: in a garage, in a country house, in a warehouse, etc. Its main advantage is its high heating rate. It quickly heats the air in the room and cools just as quickly due to the properties of the metal body.

Collapse

The most popular homemade model is considered to be a potbelly stove made from a barrel. Its manufacture and installation does not require expensive materials or special skills. It is designed so simply that you can easily assemble it with your own hands.

About the design

A homemade potbelly stove made from a barrel has a height of 89 cm, a diameter of 60 cm and a weight of 21 - 25 kg, has a solid hearth and a fairly high chimney. Used as fuel sawdust, shavings, dry firewood and fuel briquettes. Due to the rather thin metal walls and the height of the body, the efficiency of such a furnace does not exceed 15 - 20%.

The principle of its operation is quite simple: wood is placed in the firebox and ignited. When burning, firewood releases a large amount of thermal energy, which is transferred to the body of the potbelly stove. The heated metal releases heat into the surrounding atmosphere and heats the room. The amount of heat increases due to the long chimney through which hot smoke moves to the street.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

For the correct flow of gas-dynamic processes in a potbelly stove made from a 200 liter barrel, the blower should be located as low as possible. Otherwise, the lower part will take a significant part of the thermal energy and redirect it to the ground. If you need to place the ashpit higher, you can wall up the lower part of the container with bricks.

Choosing a quality barrel

To make a potbelly stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, and metallurgical industries for storing and transporting technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium liquid glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

bulk - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with open and closed top, and also differ in the thickness of the bottom, lid and shell.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

Additional materials

To build a heating device, in addition to the 200-liter metal barrel itself, you will need the following additional building materials and stove fittings:

small steel sheet;

fireclay brick for a vertical model or a reflector for a horizontal one;

a small piece of channel;

steel pipes for the chimney;

fittings for the grate;

sand, clay for making mortar;

asbestos cord;

combustion door;

blower door;

basalt wool for chimney insulation.

Required Tools

To build a high-quality potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel with your own hands, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools, consisting of:

welding machine;

grinders or hacksaws for metal;

standard hammer, pliers and chisel;

steel brush;

drills with a set of drills;

measuring instruments: tape measure, level and plumb line.

We also need funds personal protection when welding: protective mask, dielectric gloves, protective clothing made of thick fabric and closed shoes.

Manufacturing Instructions

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical arrangement of the barrel.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove made from a barrel

The manufacturing process of a vertical furnace model looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to allow loading of firewood;

The door can be purchased in advance or a cut-out part of the wall can be adapted: hinges and a handle can be welded to it, making it convenient to close and open the combustion chamber;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the container, install grate bars - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular structure made of reinforcement. To fix them, use a regular steel corner.
Option 1 - mesh grid

Option 2 - fittings

You need to weld metal legs at the bottom of the barrel or simply install the structure on bricks;

The role of the hob will be played by steel wire, which can be welded to the top lid of the oven;

Brick lining (optional)

Next we make a chimney (more details below).

It is advisable not to install the pipe strictly vertically; the presence of horizontal and inclined sections increases the amount of heat received, but the number of turns should not exceed 3 times;

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent condensation, the part of the chimney facing the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

To reduce the load on the device body, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a potbelly stove made from a 200 liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - horizontal version

Scheme of a horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the container will be as follows:

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

No flammable items should be placed near the stove, and when moving, you should be careful not to accidentally contact exposed skin with its body to avoid burns. The room where the potbelly stove is installed should be well ventilated, at least naturally.

Features of operation

When operating the stove, it is necessary to alternate its lighting cycles, which include:

fuel storage;

ignition of the stove;

direct combustion process with room heating;

cleaning of ash products from the combustion and blower sections.

Once the kindling material has ignited, larger logs can be added. Wood must be loaded carefully to prevent the fire from dying out. Once the wood has been fully loaded, the fire door must be closed tightly.

The draft in a potbelly stove can be adjusted by using a valve on the chimney or by slightly opening the ash door.

While the stove is burning, you must not touch its body to avoid getting burned.

To restore draft after a long period of burning, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Conclusion

A potbelly stove is a fairly simple heating device, and it is for this quality that it is considered a brilliant invention. How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel can be understood from the instructions and you can build it yourself. A potbelly stove will bring considerable benefits: it will solve problems with heating outbuildings and country houses, remote from the central gas supply lines. In addition, it is easily transported and installed, and can be moved to another room if necessary.

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Two barrel oven

Three-barrel cooking oven

We made a stove for burning garbage at the dacha

Advantages of a barrel stove

Assembly sequence

Initial preparation of the barrel

Assembling the grate

Preparing the doors

Making the base

Preparing the chimney

Final assembly of the furnace

Modernization of the design

Interesting potbelly stove with stonework

Long-burning wood stove made from a barrel

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

Assembly of the structure

Chimney installation

How to heat properly

How to legally burn garbage at your dacha

Waste incineration barrel

Homemade waste incinerator

Stone or brick oven for burning waste

Branded incinerator

Incinerator pit

Barrel for burning garbage in the country

Garden fireplaces and garbage disposals (garden waste)

In conclusion about burning garbage at the dacha

Interesting potbelly stove with stonework

Methods for burning garden waste

Burning garden waste on an open fire

Burning garden waste in an old barrel

Manufacturing Instructions

Vertical model

Horizontal model

Two barrel oven

What does the law say about burning waste in a barrel?

Modernization of the design

Types of stoves

Vertical model

Horizontal model

How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands

Features of operation

Method one. Upgraded barrel

Preparatory activities

Choosing a quality barrel

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

Advantages and disadvantages

Rules for installing a stove-stove

First firebox

Furnace assembly procedure

DIY DIY CD for any occasion

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Forums

Preparatory work for the production of the furnace

Barrel selection

Consumables and their quantity

Tools

Scheme

Making a stove from a barrel

Law on burning garbage and making fires on the site

Other stove options

About the design

Choosing a quality barrel

Additional materials

Required Tools

Manufacturing Instructions

Vertical model

Horizontal model

Features of operation

Conclusion

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