Descriptions of preparing paints using Finnish and Swedish recipes are circulating on the Internet. Has anyone tried painting anything with them? What is the result? If there are no answers, I’ll try to paint the piece of wood myself when it gets warmer and report back. Just what is dry lime pigment and where to buy it?
Recipes:
It’s better to follow the wise experience of the Finns and prepare a special composition for coating wood.
Take 720 g of rye flour, 1560 g of iron sulfate, 360 g of table salt, 1560 g of dry lime pigment, 9 liters of water.
When preparing the solution, it is important to follow the technology. Flour is added to 6 liters cold water and stir until you get a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Stir constantly, add salt, then iron sulfate and dry lime pigment. The remaining 3 liters of water are boiled and added to the resulting composition.
The consumption of such “paint” is 300 g/sq. m. Apply to wood twice. If your building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, it will have to be completely cleaned off.
After this painting, your building will last for 20 years without external repairs! Finnish composition for coating wood, unlike oil paint more durable and breathable.Swedish recipe
To protect the wood, it is enough to paint the house just once. The wood will be reliably protected, and scraps of paint will not irritate you. True, the “color” will fade over time, but that’s another conversation. Let’s make a reservation right away: you can only paint with this composition clean wood, that is, wood that has not been painted before, or plaster. No pre-treatment is necessary.
Here is the lineup from Sweden. Just please, don’t take any liberties with the numbers. Do it exactly as it is written.
So: rye flour - 580-600 g, table salt - 250-260 g, drying oil - 240-250 g, iron sulfate - 250-260 g, red lead - 250-260 g, water - 4.5 liters. Dry pigments can be used to create different shades. The natural color of the composition will be yellowish.
The cooking technology is simple and accessible to everyone.
Pour rye flour with 3 liters of water. Place on low heat. While stirring, prepare the paste, making sure there are no lumps. When the paste forms a homogeneous mass, without removing from the heat, add salt and vitriol and continue to boil until the crystals are completely dissolved. Then add the red lead and knead the mixture until completely smooth.
Finally, pour in the drying oil, stir again and bring to the working volume (i.e. add another 1.5 liters of water), again without removing from the heat. The prepared solution is used for coloring immediately, while warm. After a while it will begin to thicken, then you will have to dilute it warm water, which is generally undesirable, because when the solution “liquefies” the paint layer will become less durable.
It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with this solution with a brush, and plaster with a roller. The consumption of “Swedish” paint is approximately 250 g per square meter.
It’s better to follow the wise experience of the Finns and prepare a special composition for coating wood.
Take 720 g of rye flour, 1560 g of iron sulfate, 360 g of table salt, 1560 g of dry lime pigment, 9 liters of water.
When preparing the solution, it is important to follow the technology.
Add flour to 6 liters of cold water and stir until a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. The paste is filtered and put on fire.
Stir constantly, add salt, then iron sulfate and dry lime pigment.
The remaining 3 liters of water are boiled and added to the resulting composition.
The consumption of such “paint” is 300 g/sq. m.
Apply to wood twice. If your building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, it will have to be completely cleaned off.
After this painting, your building will last for 20 years without external repairs! The Finnish wood coating composition, unlike oil paint, is more durable and breathable.
Swedish recipe.
To protect the wood, it is enough to paint the house just once. The wood will be reliably protected, and scraps of paint will not irritate you. True, the “color” will fade over time, but that’s another conversation. Let’s make a reservation right away: you can only paint with this composition clean wood, that is, wood that has not been painted before, or plaster. No pre-treatment is necessary.
Here is the lineup from Sweden. Just please, don’t take any liberties with the numbers. Do it exactly as it is written.
So: rye flour - 580-600 g, table salt - 250-260 g, drying oil - 240-250 g, iron sulfate - 250-260 g, red lead - 250-260 g, water - 4.5 liters.
Dry pigments can be used to create different shades. The natural color of the composition will be yellowish.
The cooking technology is simple and accessible to everyone.
Pour rye flour with 3 liters of water.
Place on low heat.
While stirring, prepare the paste, making sure there are no lumps.
When the paste forms a homogeneous mass, without removing from the heat, add salt and vitriol and continue to boil until the crystals are completely dissolved. Then add the red lead and knead the mixture until completely smooth.
Finally, pour in the drying oil, stir again and bring to the working volume (i.e. add another 1.5 liters of water), again without removing from the heat. The prepared solution is used for coloring immediately, while warm.
After some time, it will begin to thicken, then you will have to dilute it with warm water, which is generally undesirable, because when the solution is “thinned,” the paint layer will become less durable.
It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with this solution with a brush, and plaster with a roller. The consumption of “Swedish” paint is approximately 250 g per square meter.
If you need to achieve something original color Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.
I made one batch of Finnish paint...it seemed to work...it even looked like paint...I painted one experimental section of the fence and let it sit for about 3 months (in direct sunlight in the summer), the result upset me...it peeled off in places... ..who has encountered this, tell me what could be the reason.
Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead; the resulting “dough” is diluted cold water to the consistency of sour cream.
The remaining 6 liters of water is boiled and added in a thin stream to the “sour cream” with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire.
Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Next, add the coloring pigment and mix thoroughly again.
Then, stirring vigorously, pour in drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paintable consistency.
Paint is applied to wooden surface paint or terry brush once - evenly, with wide strokes, simultaneously rubbing to fill all pores and cracks.
Unpainted areas are not left, since when painting later smooth surface It won't work anymore.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often used to cover outbuildings, shingle roofs, and sometimes walls residential buildings. It is not suitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.
In the book "Encyclopedia of the Home Craftsman.5000 useful tips"Finnish and second Swedish paints are indicated.
The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water until creamy. This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and leave for 1.5-2.0 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. In this case, the old paintwork can be easily removed.
Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime paste 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) - 25% solution is added until a liquid paste is formed.
The surface to be treated is covered with the paste and left for 1.0-1.5 hours. Then the paste, along with the old paint, is washed off with 1 solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After this, rinse with water.
The main advantages of chloroxide paint: low cost, strength and adhesion, durability. At the same time, it allows air to pass through and does not allow water to pass through.
Composition of chloroxide paint (in parts by volume):
fluffed lime - 3;
lime pigment (dry) - 0.75;
calcium chloride (dry) - 0.35;
water - 8.
Fluff lime and pigment of the required color are poured into a polyethylene container. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and poured with cold water. The solution is stirred and filtered through a double nylon stocking. Add calcium chloride and, again stirring, dissolve it completely. The last thing to add into the solution is ordinary water, dissolved in a small amount of water. laundry soap. For a bucket of paint (12 liters) take 20-30 g of soap. The paint is ready.
Paint the walls and base (using a spray gun, brushes, rollers) in two passes. It is advisable to paint the walls and base in evening time and in cloudy (but not rainy) weather.
Looks nice brick plinth, painted with chloroxide paint of a bright brick color, the seams of which are cut with chloroxide paint without pigment, i.e. white.
The following limestone (also called alkali-resistant) pigments are commercially available:
synthetic cinnabar - red,
iron lead - red-brown,
synthetic mummy - red-brown,
burnt sienna - brown,
ocher - yellow,
chromium oxide - green,
natural mummy - brown,
brown mars - brown.
Series of messages "
Everyone knows that stain is used as an antiseptic material for wood. After this powerful protection The service life of wood is extended by 2 times. This product has a liquid consistency. It gives the tree not only a brown color, but also different shades. It is used as a dye. This DIY wood paint is made at home without expensive ingredients.
Stain recipes
There are no expensive components in the tinting liquid recipe. Plants, coffee, and chemical components are used. These are elements that you can work with to make paint at home.
Staining wood with plant components
- Light tree species acquire a red tint after they are treated with a strong decoction of onion peels.
- A birch product will be painted with the same shade if it is treated with a decoction of larch bark.
- The wood turns brown after applying a solution made from walnuts.
Dry the shells in a dark place. She comes out in a slightly rotten state. When the shell is dried, it is ground into powder. A decoction is prepared from it, which is filtered when ready. Soda is added.
- If the wood is brown (after walnut) an additional solution of potassium dichromate is applied, the result will be wood with a red tint. The chemical component is diluted in water.
- Applying diluted vinegar gives the wood surface a gray tint.
- An infusion of buckthorn fruits will give the wood a yellowish tint. Unripe ones are collected. If alum is added, the coloring effect is yellow intensifies.
- A decoction of oak bark or alder covers the wood black.
A rich brown color is obtained after treatment with a stain made from the following components:
- Nut shell powder. Replaced with apple tree bark powder;
- Willow bark powder;
- Ground oak bark;
- Alder earrings;
- Baking soda – 1 tsp.
Plant components are mixed with soda and diluted with water. The mixture is simmered over low heat for a couple of minutes. The prepared composition is cooled and filtered. The stain is ready for application.
Useful video on the topic:
Coloring composition of tea, coffee, vinegar
- The color of the wood depends on the concentration of the brewed tea. The coloring substance is theanine, which is included in its composition.
- Baking soda mixed with ground coffee beans is used for toning. Instead of stain, the surface is treated with concentrated instant coffee.
- The vinegar solution turns the wooden surface red.
To prepare such a solution in a glass container, nails or any metal parts(previously defatted) are completely covered with vinegar. In this state they are stored in a dark place for a week. The duration of oxidation affects the saturation of the shade.
The stain is applied in a room with good ventilation or outdoors since the strong smell of vinegar is strongly audible.
- If concentrated tea (with theanine) or a decoction concentrate from oak bark (replaced with nuts) is added to vinegar, then the wood covered with a stain of this composition is painted anthracite black.
Stain with chemical components
- Juice combinations from wolf berries with different acids they paint the surface black and other colors.
- The tandem of juice and baking soda gives a blue color.
- A scarlet tint will appear after adding Glaubert's salt.
- Appearance Brown will be after combining with copper sulfate.
- Tree species with theanine and oak will turn brown if they are coated with slaked lime. After it, the nut surface will turn brown-green.
- Light wood species will turn yellow after applying a decoction of barberry root and alum (2%). Barberry root is replaced by poplar shoots. In this case, the yellow will be more saturated. The stain is prepared in advance, 7 days before use.
Recipe Ingredients:
Poplar shoots – 150 gr.;
Water – 1 l+1 l;
Alum – 2%.
Water with poplar shoots is brought to a boil, alum is added. Boil the mixture for 60 minutes. The finished broth is filtered. Infuses for 7 days. After that homemade paint for wood, ready to use.
- If a concentrated oak decoction is added to the finished decoction of poplar shoots, the stain will color the wood green.
- A mixture of vinegar and verdigris powder (60 grams) will appear green. Moreover, this will not happen immediately. The wood is soaked. Boil vinegar and copperhead for 15 minutes.
- The recipe for stain with theanine is widely used. At the first stage, the wooden product is covered with a mixture: soda ash(75 gr.) + carbonate (35 gr.) + water (1 l). At the second stage, after the surface has dried, a solution is applied: theanine (50 g) + water (1 l). The color appears after 60 minutes.
- The color of dark oak is obtained after applying the mixture ammonia with water. You need to work with this stain carefully. Dyeing is carried out outdoors at an accelerated pace, since the composition quickly loses its coloring properties.
If the wooden product is small in size, then it can be placed in a tightly closed container and filled with the mixture. It is kept for 2 hours, after which it is taken out. The mixture is washed off from painted wood.
Finnish and Swedish paint recipes
Homemade paint applied to exterior walls wooden house. Dyes of the Finnish and Swedish recipe allow the wood to “breathe” and protect it from moisture and atmospheric conditions.
The cooking technology is the same. Paints differ in their constituent elements.
Components of Swedish dye:
- Flour – 1,160 kg;
- Iron sulfate - 0.52 kg;
- Salt – 0.52 kg;
- Dry lime pigment – 0.52 kg;
- Drying oil – 0.48 kg;
- Liquid – 9 l.
Elements of Finnish composition:
- Flour – 0.72 kg;
- Vitriol – 1,560 kg;
- Salt – 0.36 kg;
- Dry lime pigment – 1.56 kg;
- Liquid – 9 l.
Once upon a time, in the mid-80s, my father and brother and I built country house. In those days withthe material was tight, so the house was built from what was found. The house turned out to be a two-story frame-panel house with an attic on a high strip foundation. Moreover, between the shields, knocked together from boards from various boxes, we compacted ordinary earth, taken out during the construction of the foundation and cellar under the floor. Later the house was covered with slate sheets.
And when the question arose about painting wooden attic and verandas, I came across a wonderful Soviet magazine “Do It Yourself”, which described a method for preparing paint from natural ingredients. My father, who has “golden hands,” naturally decided to try this remedy. The ingredients were purchased from nearby stores and soon the house was painted with the “Finnish composition”. For color, green was added. For more than seven years we have not touched or painted anything wooden veranda until my father wanted to expand it (our family grew, grandchildren were born).
Yes, it turned out that it is not so easy to disassemble the old boards. Thanks to the Finnish composition, the tree became stronger, not a single woodworm touched it, and the nails were firmly stuck in the fibers of the tree, only the rusty caps flew off.
After expanding the veranda, the walls were again painted with this composition. Until now, in the summer, father and mother move into this house and live there until the end. summer season, growing wonderful harvest vegetables and fruits.
Painting wooden walls
Coloring external walls repair of a wooden house is a problem that faces the owner of a painted wooden house every 5 - 7 years. Many people prefer to paint walls with oil paints. But they don’t realize that they are thereby reducing the lifespan of the house. It turns out that under a layer of oil paint, with constant humidity, microorganisms develop that destroy the wood. In addition, a house painted with oil paint almost does not “breathe”; stagnant odors appear in it, etc.
Currently, two very cheap paints are known: Swedish and Finnish compositions, which do not have the disadvantages of oil paints and even have some advantages.
The main advantages of Swedish and Finnish compositions over oil paints:
One and a half times more durable;
Several times cheaper;
After painting, the house “breathes”, and the paint does not allow moisture to pass through.
When repainting a house with these compounds, no preparatory operations are required (compared to oil paint): stripping old paint, primer, etc. Before re-painting the walls with a Swedish or Finnish composition, you need to sweep a little with a hard broom.
Swedish and Finnish compositions have one removable drawback; they can be painted on dry old wood that does not have traces of oil paint.
Freshly planed wood must be deresined before painting. These issues will be addressed below.
Swedish composition:
flour (rye or wheat) - 1160 g;
iron sulfate - 520 g;
table salt - 520 g;
lime pigment (dry*) –520g;
natural drying oil - 480 g;
water - about 9 liters.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water. They do it like this. Pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead. The resulting dough is diluted with cold water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Then, with vigorous stirring, add the remaining water (boiling water) in a continuous thin stream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot paste and dissolved while stirring. Then pigment (modern color) is added to the hot solution and everything is thoroughly mixed.
Pour drying oil into the solution in a thin stream and stir vigorously again. Then add the remaining (3 l) hot water, diluting the composition to a painting consistency.
Finnish composition:
flour - 720 g;
iron sulfate - 1560 g;
table salt - 360 g;
lime pigment - 1560 g;
water - about 9 liters.
Both compositions are prepared in enamel containers for 1 - 1.5 hours of work. The thickened composition can be diluted to paint consistency hot water, but at the same time its strength decreases.
Usually the finished composition is wrapped so that it is warm during the entire working time. Suitable plastic jars are used as working utensils into which the required amount is poured. Commonly cut bottles are best suited for this. automobile oil, tasola, etc.
Both compositions are applied to wooden surfaces with a brush or roller in two passes. Coloring is done in the afternoon, when the sun sets. Composition consumption - 250 - 300 g per 1 sq. m.
Paint without primer.
Old oil paint is removed using all kinds of washes, both standard (SD, AFT-1, SP.-7) and homemade.
The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water until creamy.
This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and left for 1.5 - 2 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. In this case, the old paintwork can be easily removed.
Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime paste - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) 25% solution - added until a liquid paste is formed.
The surface to be treated is covered with the paste and left for 1 - 1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old lubricant, is washed with a 1% solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After this, rinse with water. Deresining freshly planed wood involves removing from the surface of the wood all resinous substances that prevent the adhesion (sticking) of paints. Before painting with oil paints, de-resining is not necessary, since oil paints stick to such surfaces due to the homogeneity of the wood resins and drying oil on which oil paints are prepared.
Ash alkali is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing woven products and for processing wooden products. The lye is made simply - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best) until it turns into white ash (ash).
Ashes (ash) are filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After this, the sediment can be used to fertilize the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain “soap”), and the water can be used for washing or for treating wood products.
2. In a strong decoction of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don’t remember the exact time - it seems like a couple of hours) or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only made of wood, but also all kinds of wicker - from bast, flax, hemp, reed (I don’t remember the whole list).
Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.
With the onset of warm weather, any owner has a lot of work related to external treatment house walls or summer cottage. When calculating future expenses, even the strongest ones lose their nerve, because most of the costs are spent on the purchase of paints.
Paint price For facade works greatly depends on its quality. What to do, if painting works Do you have a whole carriage and a small cart ahead of you, and your budget is extremely limited? Yes and in last decades, as many have already noticed, the paint “lives” for only a couple of years, then its appearance deteriorates ungodly.
Why waste money on a short-lived material? You can make the paint yourself, in any quantity and of much higher quality than on the market. Below are two recipes for preparing a very cheap coloring composition - the so-called Swedish and Finnish.
Wood paint for exterior use
Swedish and Finnish paints do not allow moisture to pass through, but at the same time allow the wood to breathe. This paint is very easy to weld. You just need to strictly follow the recipe and be careful during the cooking process. The ingredients can be found at any market.
Finnish composition for painting
Ingredients
- 720 g rye or wheat flour
- 1560 g iron sulfate
- 360 g table salt
- 1560 g dry lime pigment
- 9 liters of water
Preparation
Swedish composition for painting
Only clean, previously unpainted wood or plaster can be painted with this composition. No pre-treatment is necessary. This paint recipe requires only one thing - strictly adhere to proportions.
Ingredients
- 600 g rye flour
- 260 g table salt
- 250 g drying oil
- 260 g iron sulfate
- 260 g red lead
- 4.5 liters of water
It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with Swedish mortar with a brush, and plaster with a roller. Apply to wood twice. Paint consumption - approximately 250 g per 1 sq. meter.
Paint in the afternoon when the sun sets. If the building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, you need to completely clean it off.
Unlike oil paint, Finnish and Swedish compositions are much more durable. Your building will last for 20 years without external repairs!
I'll tell you straight, like this homemade paint- . Especially if you need to fit within the budget for large volumes of painting, do everything efficiently the first time, and protect the wood for as long a period of time as possible.
