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DIY wardrobe assembly diagram in 5 steps

Out of a desire to save money, people often buy disassembled cabinet furniture in the hope of assembling it themselves. Indeed, instructions are included in any kit, but in reality, the assembly diagram of a sliding wardrobe has many nuances, and so that upon completion you do not have “extra parts” and the wardrobe is durable, we will analyze the entire process in detail and, for convenience, we will break it down into 5 steps.

Tools and preparation for assembly

You won’t need too many tools, but you won’t be able to get by with just one screwdriver; manufacturers issue the kit with 90% readiness, the remaining 10% is written off for fitting the furniture to a specific location.

• Confirmed key, manual hexagon (often included in the kit);
• Steel hammer;
• Rubber mallet;
• Screwdrivers – Phillips and straight;
• Roulette;
• Awl;
• Confirmed drill;
• Metal drills – 4 mm and 6 mm;
• Screwdriver;
• Square;
• Pliers;
• Level (regular bubble).

Now we need to prepare workplace, on the assembly site the cabinet must be placed in any position - lengthwise, across, diagonally and even lying down. All this is needed so that you can attach the back panel made of fiberboard, and then get out of there and push the cabinet into the place intended for it.

Do not hope that the set is complete; be sure to check the presence of all parts when purchasing; furniture is assembled by hand at the factory and the human factor must be taken into account.

Assembling a closet in 5 steps

Furniture in the budget sector is made either from laminated chipboard or laminated MDF; assembling these cabinets by hand is not difficult, but it is advisable to take care of an assistant, at least for support.

Step #1: Assembling the base

In this case, we need to install the legs on the base plate and secure the fittings for subsequent installation vertical walls closet

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Legs are marked. In some models, legs are not provided at all; they are installed on stands made of the same laminated chipboards, but more often the set includes adjustable legs. Here you need to see if there are holes in the base plate for these legs; if they are there, then assemble according to the diagram shown in the photo on the left.
	Legs are not marked. This situation occurs in budget models. You need to mark the mounting points and screw the legs to the base with self-tapping screws. According to the rules, with front side the legs are installed at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, and from the back 50 mm from the edge.
	Mounting hardware. The vertical walls are secured with pins for minifixes, the standard diameter is 4 mm, but there are other models.
	Installation of pins. There are ready-made holes in the base for these pins; you just need to take a tool and screw them in. The same pins are mounted in the top cover, so as not to waste time later, it is better to screw them into both plates.

Step No. 2: assembling the body

If up to this point you could do everything yourself, now it’s time to call an assistant. It is needed to keep the walls vertical. There is no need to fix the cage to the base right away; first install the shelves so that the cage stands on its own.

Horizontal shelves are assembled using furniture confirmants; they are also called Euroscrews. In ready-made kits, the holes for them are already drilled; you just need to insert the confirmant into these holes and screw it in tightly using a hex key, then cover the head with a plastic plug.

It is better to screw in the confirmands manually with a wrench; if you use a screwdriver, you can overtighten and break the thread.

Now it's time to firmly attach the cage and shelves to the base and top lid. For these purposes, so-called minifixes are used; they are something like a “tablet” with an eccentric inside.

The diameter of the furniture minifixes is 16 mm, when you install the vertical posts on the pins, the head of the pin will be visible in the side hole of the post. A minifix is ​​inserted into this hole and turned clockwise.

Thus, the two elements are tightly pulled together. In this case, the technology is the same both for attaching the base and for fixing top cover.

Step #3: back wall

The back wall in such cabinets is made of painted hardboard (dense fiberboard). The sheets are cut on machines, so there is no doubt about their shapes, the problem is that the back wall is composite, that is, it is assembled from several sheets, so assembly takes place in 3 stages:

1. First, you need to check how smoothly you assembled the box. To do this, we use the old-fashioned method - we measure the diagonals. The size of both diagonals should be the same. If something is wrong, check the tightness of the minifixes; usually small deviations are caused by uneven tightening;
2. Now call an assistant and ask him to hold the box in the desired position (so that it does not skew in any direction). At this time you apply bottom panel hardboard to the back wall and nail it to the posts with nails or screw it with small screws;
3. Next, put the plastic H-shaped connecting profile on installed panel and mount the next one in exactly the same way. The minimum step for fixing panels on racks is 100 mm, well, this is at your discretion, for example, in soviet cabinets The back wall was fastened with self-tapping screws at 30 mm intervals.

Step No. 4: installation of door guides

Before installing the guides under sliding doors, the base of the cabinet should be set clearly to the horizon, with level control. This can be done using adjustable legs.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Equipment. Budget models use roller doors supported on a bottom rail, with rollers running along it. On top there are W-shaped profiles that control the movement of the door leaf.
	Attaching the upper profiles. All profiles come without mounting holes; you will need to drill them with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm. Then screw the profile with self-tapping screws to the top lid of the cabinet.
	We put stoppers. Stoppers are needed so that the door rollers are fixed in them and the doors do not move apart spontaneously. You just need to take pliers and insert the lock into the groove of the profile.
	Lower profile fastening. The instructions are similar: drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm and attach the profile to the base with self-tapping screws (the stoppers should already be in place).

In this article you can familiarize yourself with step-by-step instructions for assembling a sliding wardrobe and save money on the service of furniture assemblers.

Before assembly, in order to avoid scratching the cabinet parts or the floor, we recommend covering the floor with the cabinet packaging.

Screw the plinth to the bottom of the cabinet. Make sure that the corners are right and that the distance from the edge of the bottom is the same along the entire length.

Now we fill in the support nails.

Assembling the cabinet body

As a rule, sliding wardrobes, like all furniture, are assembled in the lying position of the cabinet. Study carefully the assembly diagram of the sliding wardrobe. Most often, all cabinet parts and fittings have their own designation. It is also important to follow the cabinet assembly sequence indicated in the diagram. Otherwise, it may be necessary to disassemble previously fastened parts and reassemble them in the required sequence.

When assembling a cabinet, a simple mistake is often made, which is costly - they confuse the top and bottom of the parts. As a result, sometimes you have to disassemble a practically assembled cabinet and reassemble it. Make sure that the holes in vertical rack the fastenings and shelf supports corresponded to the opposite rack.

The cabinet is assembled using minifixes. It is very important until the cabinet body is completely assembled to prevent distortion of already screwed parts, as they can simply be broken off.

It is important to tighten the minifixes completely. Minifixes are always doubled with a dowel to strengthen the fastening.

Installing the rear wall of the cabinet

Once the main cabinet body parts are assembled, the cabinet must be turned face down. It is better to start assembling the cabinet with the front part facing the floor, so as not to scratch the furniture.

Before fastening back wall Fiberboard, which will give rigidity to the cabinet, you need to make sure that all corners of the sliding wardrobe are 90 degrees. Otherwise, the cabinet will stand crookedly and the doors will not close tightly. To do this, you need to measure the length of the diagonals as indicated in the figure in red. The distance from the corners should be the same. Now you can attach the wall. In order to avoid the fiberboard coming off, as often happens, the back wall should be secured not with nails, but with self-tapping screws or long staples construction stapler. Make sure that the self-tapping screws (staples), after passing through the fiberboard, do not go past the end of the chipboard.

Place the cabinet in a vertical position. Better closet lift with an assistant so as not to harm your health and not drop the cabinet. Be careful not to touch the chandelier.

Now you can attach the shelf supports and hanger pipe. We attach the drawer guides.

It is important that the heads of the screws are fully recessed, as they can interfere with the movement of the rollers of the retractable shelves.

Shelf holders often have several levels of shelf height.

Now that the body of the sliding wardrobe has been assembled, you can install it in the place where it will stand.

If cabinet supports are provided that are height-adjustable, set the cabinet level. If the supports are not adjustable, as in this cabinet, and the floor is crooked, the level can be set by placing it under the plinth dense material. If the cabinet does not stand level and stable, the doors will close poorly and not tightly.

Installation of sliding wardrobe doors

First we attach the top guide. If there are no holes for self-tapping screws, they must be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm. There are two holes on the edges and one in the middle.

The top guide is mounted flush with the edge of the cabinet lid.

We also make three holes in the bottom guide. Having drilled a hole for the self-tapping screw, carefully remove the chamfer with a drill of a larger diameter so that the self-tapping screw is “recessed”. Before fixing the bottom guide, do not forget to insert two springs into it that secure the door rollers.

When installing doors, first start top part doors into the upper guides, then insert the lower rollers into the rails.

Now you can adjust the tilt of the doors using a hex key. IN last resort removed protective film from door profiles and guides sliding system. We glue the sealing brush to the ends of the doors. If you touch the end where the brush is glued with your hands, the brush will stick worse, since your hands leave grease.

Assembling furniture yourself can help you save a lot of money cash. It’s good if a person has simple skills in assembling objects. It will be useful for beginners to learn how to assemble a wardrobe themselves. Step by Step Actions installation of each element of the product will allow for quick installation.

Among all types of clothing storage products, the leading place today is occupied by the wardrobe. It is multifunctional, spacious, and comes in different forms and sizes, and also does not require additional space to open doors. That is why most people, when choosing between a wardrobe and a sliding wardrobe, prefer the latter option.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands in the video presented is not at all difficult - all you need to have in your apartment is necessary tools and be familiar with the design of the product. Often, when ordering a cabinet without the services of assemblers, the company sends a document that contains a drawing of the product. This also lists all the component parts, which are numbered in order. By looking at the drawing and comparing the elements of the cabinet, you can intuitively assemble the product.

To work according to the sliding wardrobe assembly diagram, you will need the following tools:

• building level– to check the levelness of the installation parallel to the floor;
• corner;
• rubber and regular hammer;
• straight and Phillips screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil and ruler;
• screwdriver;
• wood drill - to make holes;
• metal drill – for installing an aluminum base.

Additional tools for assembling furniture yourself include a jigsaw, drill and sandpaper. It is also necessary to prepare all the details of the cabinet, which means checking the diagram to ensure that the number of items matches. Pay attention to the fittings and mechanisms: if there are drawers in the closet, ball guides should be included.

Doors for the product are often supplied ready-made. They are pre-installed with rollers and strip soft material. The door must be installed in the final phase.

Tools

Assembly steps

To know where to start, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with its stages. Most sliding wardrobes are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• base;
• frame;
• installation of the rear wall;
• installation of shelves and guides;
• installation of compartment doors.

After the completed stages, the implementation of internal additional elements. These include pull-out baskets, drawers, rods, hanging hooks and pantographs. Let's consider the installation of each cabinet element separately.

Assembly steps

Base

The assembly of sliding wardrobes, the video of which is presented below, begins from the bottom part, which bears the entire load during operation. We find a part that will perform this function and place it in front of us. In order for the process to proceed correctly, we use tools such as screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a pencil and a tape measure for marking. Also check the package for the presence of self-tapping screws and special masking plugs.

The algorithm of actions looks like this:

• on the part for the bottom, the place for installing the base is marked;
• sometimes, instead of base strips, adjustable legs are used, the place for which also needs to be marked;
• drill holes for fasteners;
• we attach the bottom to the slats using confirmata (corners) - for this we use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
• We assemble the transverse supports of the plinth, designed for stability.

Some products, such as the Phoenix coupe model, require installation using adjustable legs. This is easy to do: the plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into holes prepared at the bottom with a diameter of 10 mm.

Depending on the size assembled cabinet coupe, the number of legs will be adjustable. So, for large planes more than 6 support elements will be required.

Preliminary marking of the cabinet base

The easiest way to assemble the base is on furniture metal corners

Installing the feet

Finished plinth with legs

Frame

Before disassembling and assembling sliding wardrobes from scratch, it is important to familiarize yourself with general structure existing product. Study the diagram carefully, because the assembly of the case should ensure safe operation closet The stability of the internal elements will depend on how securely it is installed.

In order for the furniture assembly to be accurate, you should additionally check the floor surface for evenness. Use a building level: if there are differences on the floor, tighten the adjustable legs. Only after this assemble the product box.

To ensure quality installation of the housing, follow these steps:

• It is better to assemble the product while standing, because it is very difficult to install a perfectly fitted cabinet in a lying position. But it is important to remember that for complete assembly it is necessary to leave at least 100 mm for the installation of the roof;
• in the part that is responsible for the bottom, you must first drill several holes and insert anchors. Rack strips will be mounted on the installed fasteners;
• Installation of stand-up panels is carried out by two people: in order not to get confused, you can view the instructions for assembling the sliding wardrobe presented in the video. The left side panel is inserted first, one person holds it while the second person inserts the right side panel;
• at the next stage, the middle stand is installed, if present. After its installation, the roof is installed. If the cabinet is assembled in a standing position, then this part will be properly secured to the corners or confirmations.

It is a little more difficult to assemble a maestro model sliding wardrobe, which has many functions. Its installation is carried out slowly, preferably by several people.

Fastening occurs using euroscrews

Installing the side and interior walls of the cabinet

The base is connected to the body using confirmat corners

Rear wall installation

To assemble the coupe yourself, in particular to attach the back wall of the product, you need to choose wisely Consumables– fasteners. Often, assemblers use incorrectly selected consumables, which is why, over time, the fiberboard panel comes away from the furniture product. In Soviet times, hardboard was assembled onto the back wall using nails, which is undesirable to do today.

For greater reliability, attach the fiberboard wall to the cabinet using self-tapping screws. This is how the product will not be damaged during operation.

When assembling furniture for yourself, it is important to carry out high-quality assembly of the sliding wardrobe with your own hands: the video presented below clearly shows all the complex nuances. Perform the following manipulations:

• place a hardboard panel behind the cabinet;
• Holding the sheet with your hands, use short self-tapping screws and use a screwdriver or screwdriver to screw them in at a distance of 10-20 cm.

If the cabinet has several back walls at once, they must be secured end-to-end. Use special tightening fasteners, and then screw the screws into the back of the middle bar.

Rear wall mounting

Installation of shelves and guides

To avoid having to disassemble the product and redo your work, check the reliability and stability of the frame, and then proceed to fill it with internal elements: shelves, rods, drawers and guides. Study self-assembly you can see the wardrobe using the video at the bottom of the article. It clearly provides information about all important points process.

You should pay attention to the following nuances:

• The shelves can be secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To do this, the parts themselves already have drilled holes. First, we note the distance between the shelves and attach them to the sidewalls and the central stand bar;
• First, the upper door rails are installed, after which the lower rails are installed. It is worth emphasizing that the installation of these elements must be carried out strictly in a straight line - the correct movement of the doors will depend on this;
• The rod is installed on special flanges that come with it. If necessary, the length of the pipe is cut with a hacksaw. If you are assembling a Fortune model cabinet, you should pay attention to a large number of elements and do not confuse them;
• drawers and pull-out baskets are inserted into the product after attaching the mechanisms for their operation.

Before you install it yourself internal filling, check the availability of all accessories and consumables.

Guide sliding system

Preparing holes on the guides

Before installing the guides, the stopper must be positioned correctly

Hello again. Today we will assemble our wardrobe, we will do this according to the instructions below.

So, we took the parts from the cut. We didn’t want to glue the edge ourselves, so we ordered gluing there, especially since the price of gluing is not that high.

We also bought all necessary fittings for the cabinet and the necessary fasteners.

The floor turned out to be not entirely level, so the cabinet had to be built not on a plinth, but on adjustable legs; accordingly, the detailing was slightly altered.

The introductory part is finished, let's start assembling.

Wardrobe assembly instructions

Our procedure for assembling the wardrobe will be as follows.

You need to start assembling from the bottom of the cabinet, namely by assembling the base and installing the legs.

We take a part called the bottom and mark its lower side for installing the base and legs as shown in the diagram below:

The plinth can be secured to the bottom using mini fixes (eccentrics, rasteks - whoever calls them), confirmats or regular ones plastic corners.

Since this will still be an invisible area, and the cabinet will not stand on a plinth, but on legs, I decided to secure the plinth using plastic corners. The legs were secured with 3.5*30 screws.

Just when you screw the legs, don’t overdo it (you can over-tighten it, and the sharp part of the screw will come out reverse side).

We attach the four parts of the base to each other using confirmations. For convenience, take yourself corner clamp. You can use it.

Do not twist the front plinth with corners, as To adjust the legs you will have to remove it.

We will attach the sides to the bottom and roof with minifixes. They are great for fastening perpendicular parts, and they also manage to completely hide the fastener.

If space allows, it is convenient to assemble the sliding wardrobe lying on the front part and fasten it using confirmations. But since I didn’t have any free space in my room, I had to assemble it standing up and use eccentrics (rastexes, minifixes) as fasteners.

On the bottom and roof of the cabinet (from the inside) we mark holes for installing the minifix rod.

Before installing the sides, using a level, the bottom of the wardrobe must be leveled as evenly as possible. Simply lean the level and adjust the legs to the maximum horizontal position.

Now you need to mark the sidewalls, the holes should exactly coincide with the installed rods on the bottom and roof. In the sidewalls you will need to do two different drillings in two different planes.

The first hole is made for a metal eccentric, which will tighten the rod; it is made in inside sidewalls, with a special 15mm cutter, at a distance from the edge of the end to the center of 34mm (this is if the rod has a total length of 44mm, like mine).

In general, when fitting a part onto a rod, its head should protrude 6 mm. If this is your first time installing minifixes, practice better on rough parts, so you will feel more confident when assembling.

The second hole is made at the end of the part, with a 6-6.5 mm drill, strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

For a more detailed understanding of this assembly step, you can use our materials on.

• When you have made all the necessary holes, do not rush to install the sides and roof right away.
• To give the structure initial rigidity, immediately assemble the central partition with the upper shelf (we fasten it with confirmations).
• At the next stage, we need to place the sidewalls, the rear wall of the console and the assembled T-shaped partition on the lower rods, tighten them with eccentrics, and secure the upper shelf to the sidewalls (with confirms). Use an angle clamp for support.
• Next, we attach the roof and check the verticality using a level.
• If everything is fine, to provide additional rigidity, we install additional shelves using confirmats.
• Now, using 3.5*16 screws, we fasten the back wall of the fiberboard. Let's start with two upper corners, and after perfect alignment, we begin to screw in screws throughout the entire box, in increments of 15-20mm. The fiberboard should also be secured to the central partition and the top shelf.

The hardest part of the job is finished. We put the cabinet in its place, once again check the position of the cabinet by level and proceed to installing shelves, hangers and drawers.

Shelves can be made either rigid (secured with confirmations) or removable (on shelf holders).

To have fewer plugs for holes on the visible side of the wardrobe, I decided to install the shelves on shelf holders.

Everything is simple here. We mark on the sidewall the desired height, using a 4.5-5 mm drill, we make a NOT through hole, up to 8 mm deep, and hammer the shelf holder into it.

A sliding wardrobe is one of the most convenient and compact ways to store things. It has small shelves for light items of clothing, and large ones for bulkier items, there are compartments for storing skis, a compartment equipped with a rod for placing outerwear, etc.

The compactness of the closet is made possible by sliding doors, which do not require space to swing open; they move on special rollers located inside the structure of the door itself. Even a person inexperienced in such matters can assemble such a cabinet, since the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Read the instructions and sort the parts

First, you need to carefully read the instructions and understand the individual parts - find the lower and upper elements, side posts, internal partitions.

If you mix up even one part, you are guaranteed to have to disassemble the newly assembled structure and reassemble everything again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage to correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame

First we install the base (bottom element).

As a rule, this plate is attached to stands located along long side, using confirmations (these are so-called Euroscrews that have a recess in the head for a special hex key).

Installing internal partitions

At the lower end of the partitions there are holes into which dowels must be inserted before installation.

A dowel (chopik) is a small piece of rod round section, used to strengthen wooden joints.

There are blind holes in the bottom plate, which are intended for such dowels. Having aligned the dowels and holes, we install the vertical partitions in their place (an assistant will be needed here).

We fix the shelves

Now, in order to prevent the structure from becoming loose, we install shelves, which in this case act as stiffeners.

We secure them with confirmations.

At this stage, fasteners must be screwed in completely, leaving no free play.

We install the side racks and the top cover

Now the final part of assembling the frame is the installation of the side posts and the top cover. All three elements must be installed simultaneously.

Although this action depends on design features and the location of fastening points on these parts. First, we install the sidewalls, fastening them at the bottom with the base with confirmations.

Then we put the lid on top, align the holes in all the parts and also tighten the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free play, since you will need to level the entire frame.

Aligning the structure

The alignment process consists of the following steps. It is necessary to use a tape measure to first measure one diagonal, then the second and, based on the difference in values, determine in which direction you need to “press” (move) the top of the cabinet so that its corners are perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap the confirmations to the end with force.

We nail chipboard sheets

The next step assembly will involve nailing fiberboard sheets to the back of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a back wall, but will also reliably keep the structure from loosening throughout the entire period of operation.

As a rule, the canvases have a decorative treatment on the front side in the form of a laminated colored surface. The sheets are fastened using small nails, which must be driven into the ends of all cabinet elements (racks, partitions, shelves).

Here it is important to guess the place of nailing, because the cabinet parts are not visible from the back side, and damage resulting from the wrong choice has a negative impact on appearance products.

We place the rails - guides

Now the most crucial moment is the installation of the lower and upper rails for the doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for the movement of rollers:

And the top is divided into two sections:

In both, you must first drill holes for screws to attach them to the base and cover.

The holes must be chamfered to allow the screw to be screwed in flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each plank. We fasten the bottom rail first, marking the corresponding fastening points.

The distance from the edge of the base to the leading edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

To ensure that the doors do not jam and they move evenly, it is necessary to install the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done using a regular building level.

The longer the level, the more accurate the horizontal indicators will be.

The top rail is attached in a similar way with the only difference being that you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in both compartments.

Screws from the set supplied with the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the edge of the rail, the distance should be 2 mm.

We install rods and fittings

Final construction stage There will be a rod installed to accommodate outerwear.

First you need to mark the attachment points for one holder (it is secured with 3 screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with a screw.

The assembled structure must first be tried on, aligned horizontally, and then outlined and attached with the same screws.

We hang the doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutters in the lower bar for the absence of debris that will interfere with the movement of the rollers, once again make sure that the planes are horizontal and check all connections for rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the top rail.

And then the end rollers need to be placed in the groove of the lower rail.

All 4 doors are installed in this way (the main thing is not to confuse the picture).

In principle, there is nothing complicated in installing a wardrobe. You just need to take a responsible approach to all stages of its assembly, and then you will not only receive advanced training as home handyman, but also certainly gratitude for preserving the family budget.

Assembly is complete - the result is in the photo