How to make a table for the kitchen. How to make a great extendable table to save space. Video: DIY table by components

To solve problems of limited free space and increasing its functionality in small apartment, many owners make a folding table with their own hands. By installing it in the kitchen, you can free up space by using it as a dining table.

This is an interior item in the form of a board attached to the wall. Placed in a small room, it serves as a table. It can be an excellent assistant if used correctly.

Reclining table and bench

The folding table is distinguished by its functionality and ergonomics, and fits harmoniously into the space of any room. It can significantly save working space.

Advantages and disadvantages of the product

The design has a number of advantages:

  • Compactness
  • Functionality
  • Stylish design
  • Easy to install

One of the disadvantages of folding tables is their small size. If you make it larger, the result will be a heavy and bulky structure. The operation of such a table will be more difficult. It will be difficult to fold.

Table details

To build a folding table, you need to prepare the following parts:

  • table top
  • bottom and top of the shelf
  • sides and partitions
  • back

As accessories, it is necessary to prepare screws, hinges, confirmants and anchors.

During the work you can use the following tools:

  • electric jigsaw (hacksaw or regular jigsaw)
  • manual milling machine
  • grinder
  • screwdriver
  • drill and set of drill bits

They also use a ruler, tape measure, pencil, level and construction square.

Having prepared the details and necessary tools, you can start working.

Preparation of the drawing

When building a folding table with a wall mount with your own hands, drawings of the parts and the product itself are done first.

A table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be meaningful and even key element interior design, it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need something separate from the living rooms. production room: Woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you get help modern achievements, right there:

  • Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
  • Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
  • Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; is there some more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working element. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
  • It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn the table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe; it’s not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting of horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and is protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan berries are used for weapon stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness; the most delicate carvings on walnut do not chip. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like such wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; in other conifers and many hardwood she is there too. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood, impregnated with VPE, is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects acrylic varnishes water based; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them touch-free before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by completely dry varnish Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine one, on the left in the figure. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To completely raise the tabletop small tool placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the tabletop can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, e.g. inserts in sliding tables.

The legs are attached to industrial tables with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also demand least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach round-headed legs or any legs in general, but you will need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. IN small apartment with a narrow corridor, it is often simply impossible to push a table with legs into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.

Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m thick 20-60 mm with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; of them you are willing and for completely affordable price They will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end of the PVC with edging (edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

  • The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profile, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
  • The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
  • The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
  • Before installing the edging, apply to the surface of the end thin layer silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
  • The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Countertops are often assembled without wires on the plaza - flat surface, covered plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good board panel on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But in the right hands, stacked tabletops made from fragments are simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: the load-bearing frame is prefabricated; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

Exactly. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The aesthetic appearance is very desirable, but is not decisive: suddenly you messed up with the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands to it, you can make steel legs with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. Rustic style kitchen table plans. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or metal fasteners at all. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a table top made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, it is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) when tied, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. above right - small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By lifting the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and when fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. These are essentially 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be “brought to fruition,” but a spring table almost always does. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern mechanisms extension with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving apart/sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at first.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure the possibility of refinishing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rather rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

An oval-shaped folding kitchen table is perfect for those who like to have dinner with the whole family and occasionally receive guests. It's pretty easy to make yourself. Self-made furniture is distinguished by its original design and the ability to take into account individual needs determined by the characteristics of the room and the taste of the owners of the house.

Why an oval table?

An oval-shaped folding dining table is good because it has rounded corners. This avoids “unpleasant encounters” and is especially appreciated by those who have small children at home. The oval shape suggests the location of the table in the center of the room. However, if necessary, you can place such a table near the kitchen corner.

Preparing for work

Before starting work you must:

  1. Determine the dimensions of the future table.
  2. Make sketches and drawings of the design of the product and its individual parts.
  3. Choice of tabletop material and supports.
  4. Calculate required amount materials.
  5. Purchase materials, fasteners and accessories.

Determining the size and shape of the table

The size of the product depends on the area of ​​the kitchen and the number of people that need to be placed at the table. The optimal solution for a medium-sized kitchen would be a folding dining table measuring 120x80 cm (folded), consisting of two parts with dimensions of 60x80 cm each.

It would be correct to draw a sketch of the future product to scale in order to understand what ratio of the width and length of the table will allow you to maintain a beautiful rounded shape even when unfolded, and in a size suitable for a specific kitchen.

For a kitchen of this size, a folding oval dining table measuring 120x80 cm is suitable if placed with kitchen corner. If you place the table in the center of the room, access to the cabinets will be difficult kitchen set And household appliances. When receiving guests, you can place it in the middle of the kitchen.

The optimal length of the dining table top for a comfortable seating for one person is 60 cm. The sketch shows that an extendable table measuring 120x80 cm is perfect for four to six people (six will fit behind it if you move the table to the center of the kitchen). When unfolded, this table can seat up to 8 people. If you need a folding dining table for more guests, you can increase the size of the insert or make two identical ones.

Execution of drawings

It is necessary to complete the following drawings and sketches (option with a tabletop of two parts measuring 60x80 cm and one insert measuring 40x80 cm):

  • drawing of the parts of the main tabletop, to determine the desired shape of the table and the corresponding rounding radius;

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 20 cm

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 30 cm

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 40 cm

  • insert drawing 80x40 cm;
  • sketch of the tabletop in an extended form;
  • for tables with a drawer (underframe) drawing of drawer parts.

The specified dimensions of the drawer parts are suitable for a folding dining table measuring 120×80 cm in the shifted position. It is necessary to make two parts each with dimensions 80×12 cm and 40×12 cm.

Selection of materials

Details of the folding kitchen table:

  • tabletop and inserts for it;
  • supports (legs);
  • king;
  • edge (for tables made of chipboard and MDF);
  • sliding mechanism;
  • tabletop clamps;
  • fasteners.

To make a folding table top, you can use wood, chipboard, MDF, natural stone and glass. Chipboard and MDF can be either laminated or coated with plastic. The thickness of the tabletop can be from 18 to 48 mm (sometimes more).

Natural stone is the most durable, moisture- and heat-resistant material. But this material has a significant disadvantage: it is quite expensive. As an alternative, you can use a countertop made of chipboard or MDF, decorated with ceramic tiles.

When choosing the color and thickness of the countertop, you must take into account the design of the remaining furnishings in the kitchen, especially the thickness and texture of the kitchen countertop.

The legs can be made from the same material as the tabletop, or you can purchase ready-made metal supports. They come in two types: for tables with a drawer and for tables without drawers.

The drawer can also be made from the same material as the table top, or from any other material that is suitable in thickness and texture.

The following edges are used to process laminated chipboard and MDF sections:

The most budget and least practical option- melamine edge, it is the thinnest and is a paper tape with a density of 120-130 g per square meter. m. Its thickness is 0.1 mm.

The PVC edge differs from it in its greater thickness and wear resistance.

The ABS edge is made of plastic and is characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to external influences.

Acrylic edge is often called 3D edge due to its “3D” effect. This is the most advantageous option, in terms of appearance.

PVC, ABS and acrylic edges have a thickness of 0.4 to 2 mm. Depending on the thickness of the tabletop and other parts of the product, a suitable edge width is selected, which ranges from 18 to 55 mm. There are types of edges on sale with an already applied adhesive layer.

Sliding mechanisms for folding tables are of three types according to the method of fastening:

According to the method of sliding, there are two types of mechanisms: synchronous and non-synchronous. In the first case, the tabletop parts move apart simultaneously, in the second, separately.

When purchasing, you need to take into account the length of the non-expanded mechanism and the maximum size of the inserts (these parameters should be indicated in the characteristics of the mechanism).

For a folding table without a drawer measuring 120x80 cm in a folded state with two inserts of 40 or 50 cm, a mechanism 98 cm long with a maximum size of inserts of 50 cm (48/980/T2S) is suitable.

To secure the tabletop, you will additionally need special locks. Their number depends on how many inserts the table has.

Calculation of required materials

Based on the completed drawings you need to calculate:

  • the total area of ​​all table parts made of wood, chipboard or MDF;
  • edge footage, for tables made of chipboard and MDF.

For a table without drawers with a tabletop made of two pieces of chipboard measuring 60x80 cm and one insert 40 cm wide, you will need: 1.3 sq. m. Chipboard, 9 m edges (with reserve), 4 metal supports, sliding mechanism, 4 tabletop clamps, dowels and screws.

Table manufacturing process

  1. Cut out the table parts according to the drawings and cut them out.
  2. Cover the cuts with an edge.
  3. Assemble the table.
  4. Finish finishing.

Tools:

  • large ruler or tape measure;
  • pencil;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • belt sander;
  • drill;
  • iron or hair dryer.

Uncover

Chipboard and MDF can be purchased in the form of sheets (boards) of a certain size. Minimum dimensions sheets of chipboard or MDF are 244×120 cm. From the above calculation it is clear that to make an oval sliding kitchen table measuring 120×80 cm (160×80 in the extended position) you will need one such sheet.

Examples of cutting chipboard sheets for an oval sliding kitchen table

The main tabletop will consist of two parts measuring 60x80 cm. It will be complemented by one part measuring 40x80 cm. The remaining material can be used to make stools and the result will be a wonderful set for the kitchen.

You can cut out the parts using a jigsaw; the roundings are done with a milling machine.

Edge banding

First, you need to carefully treat all the sections with sealant (silicone), let them dry, and then you can start gluing with edges. To do this, use an iron or a hair dryer.

It is necessary to first clean the cuts from wood dust. Then apply the edge so that it completely covers the cut (the width of the edge should be greater than the thickness of the table top). Turn on the iron and set the “synthetic” mode. Place newspaper between the iron and the cut and begin to heat the edge. After it begins to stick, smooth the finished area with a cloth and move the iron further. You need to smooth it until the edge cools down.

If the edge does not have its own adhesive layer, then you can use any universal glue. In this case, the cut surface should be smooth and free of dust. Glue must be applied to both the edge and the end and glue them together, while smoothing them with a roller or cloth. Instead of a cloth and a roller, you can use wooden block, covered with felt.

After completing the work, you need to carefully check whether there are any loose fragments. Then you need to chip off the edge protruding beyond the edges, remove any remaining glue and sand the edges with sandpaper.

Better adhesion can be achieved using a hair dryer. A stream of air with a temperature of 200 degrees should be directed only at adhesive layer. Well-heated glue should protrude from under the edge. Excess glue can be removed only after complete drying.

Table assembly

The assembly is performed in the following sequence:

  • Place the halves of the main tabletop together.
  • Attach a sliding mechanism to them.

  • Install the tabletop clamps.

  • Spread the halves of the main tabletop and insert the removable part.
  • Attach the clamps to the insert so that when pulled apart, their parts coincide with the corresponding parts of the main tabletop.

  • Screw the legs to the tabletop.

To do this on reverse side tabletops, we apply markings with a pencil to determine where to attach the legs. The optimal distance from the edge of the tabletop to the leg is 10 cm. On the ray connecting the center of the circle along which the tabletop was rounded with its edge, we retreat from the cut of the tabletop 13 cm (10 cm + 3 cm radius of the leg) and put a point. This point will coincide with the center of the support.

A piece of furniture such as a kitchen (or as it is also called a dining table) table is the main component of the kitchen interior. Its shape and size must correspond to the size of the room so that all family members can freely fit behind it. It is also important that the kitchen table does not interfere with free passage.

Sliding dining kitchen table-transformer

Currently, stores offer a wide selection of kitchen furniture, of various shapes and sizes, made from a variety of materials. The market offers tables of both Russian and foreign production.

Original round dining table with chairs in the kitchen interior

When choosing a table for a small kitchen, you have to make a choice - you like it when there is a lot of free space, or it is important for you that the furniture is comfortable and roomy. If you just can’t decide on a suitable table for your kitchen, try making it yourself. Anyone who has a certain skill can do this quite well.

Do-it-yourself wooden round table with a four-leg structure

DIY folding table for a small kitchen

Many men who like to DIY can save a lot of money family budget, after all finished goods they are not cheap. Accordingly, you independently select the material for making a high-quality dining table and the necessary fastening. By demonstrating your design skills, you will assemble an original piece of furniture that is ideal for your kitchen interior.

Folding table for the kitchen that won't take up extra space

Don't think this is difficult task. Assembling the dining table will not take much time - just a few days. It's a little more difficult to make a tabletop. It is better to first consult with friends who are involved in such matters, or read information on the Internet.

DIY table with shelves and folding table top

By assembling a table with your own hands, you will create a unique thing and bring an old idea to life. Perhaps, with your help, you will organize the production of kitchen tables, and this will develop into a profitable business.

Deciding on design and construction

Round wooden table with handmade painting

Square wooden table for dining area

The design and shape of the dining table can be very diverse. Designers, using imagination, bring the most unusual ideas to life.

Extending oval dining table with chrome legs

Let's look at the design of this piece of furniture.

Round table It has smooth lines, as if uniting those who sit at such a table. It has several legs or one large one. It’s comfortable to sit at, and you won’t have any associations with your place of work or study. There is one drawback - it cannot be placed tightly against the wall
Oval An excellent option for owners large kitchen, which is divided into working and dining area. Ideal choice for big family, quite strong
Square The embodiment of rigor, but at the same time it is simple and multifunctional. Suitable for small rooms, good space saver
Rectangular Widely used option. It can accommodate many people. It can be placed however you like - in the center, against the wall, near the window.
Triangular This type of table is quite rare in the kitchen. It is used as unusual element decoration, for example as a coffee table

Wooden kitchen furniture set: rectangular table, bench and corner

Glass corner dining table

Owners small kitchen They prefer to use a book-like table or an extendable one. Since when assembled they save a lot of space. Other forms of tables are rarely seen. If you prefer products of an original shape, it is better to have them made to order.

Large classic solid wood dining table

A kitchen table, like any other furniture, is selected to suit a specific interior style. For example, a regular wooden table is suitable for a classic look. High-tech is characterized by right angles and lines, so they choose tables made of plastic, metal, glass, with an emphasis on white and gray shades. For Art Nouveau style it is used unusual furniture with ornate lines. Eco-style implies products made from natural materials.

Original folding dining table in high-tech style

Designer's advice. Whatever table you choose, the main thing is that it matches the interior and complements the overall look.

Necessary materials

Materials for the dining table may vary. Here are the most used ones:

  • laminated chipboard;
  • glued boards, edged;
  • timber

If desired, they can be combined. You will also need: corners, hinges (for folding models), rollers, confirmations, corner fasteners, eccentric bolts, lining legs, tape for edge decoration, plastic profile for the tabletop, plugs.

Required Tools

You can’t do without a standard set of tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • drill;
  • hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • screwdrivers;
  • electric plane;
  • grinding machine;
  • hexagons;
  • construction hair dryer (can be replaced with an iron);
  • tape measure (ruler), pencil.

When making complex models, you cannot do without additional tools.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

We will make the tabletop from wooden boards

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? Let's look at this using the example of a regular dining table. First of all, we prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for the work.

Diagram of the future dining table with dimensions

Then we mark the furniture elements. We start with the tabletop, since this is the largest part of the table. It can be rectangular, round, square or oval in shape. If you are planning to make a table of an unusual shape, make the markings according to the sketches.

We sand the boards with a plane, carefully process the edges so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other

We connect the boards with glue and dowels, remove excess glue on the surface and sand it

Then we apply a drawing of the side posts onto the material - these will be the legs of the future table. Most often, their shape imitates a chess piece. If you want, you can make it in a different shape at your discretion. The main thing is that the structure is stable.

We fasten the legs and make a base for the tabletop

Then we mark the upper and lower crossbars, which will connect the racks and thereby ensure the reliability of the structure. Remember that the lower crossbar is always almost twice as wide as the upper one. Its shape is varied. Typically, the legs are placed from the edge of the table surface at a distance of 15-20 cm.

On next stage We carry out cutting out elements. Place the material on the table. Cut out the tabletop using a jigsaw. To avoid chipping, we place plywood underneath. Similarly, cut out the remaining parts. Do not allow the material to sag. Because of this, the tool may break or the cut element may break. After cutting out the edges of the parts, we grind them with a special machine or go over them with sandpaper.

We attach the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the tabletop later

Using tape to decorate the edges and a plastic profile, we perform trimming. First we put the profile on the edge of the surface. In the place of the angular bend, the profile must be heated with a hairdryer and then rotated. For high-quality fastening use universal glue.

After the glue in the frame has dried, you can begin installing the tabletop on the frame.

Then we trim the legs and crossbars using tape to decorate the edges. Before this, prepare the surface by cleaning it from dirt and grease. Using a hot iron, press the tape onto the edge and glue it. Using a sharp knife, cut off the excess. The resulting irregularities are carefully removed with sandpaper. We process the edges of the remaining elements in the same way.

If you want to make the table longer and wider, you need to strengthen it with two additional cross bars

We assemble the table in the following order. Using confirmations, we connect the legs with the crossbars, positioning the upper one so as to prevent the table top from sagging. We fix the bottom one at a height of 20-25 cm from the floor.

The finished assembled table only needs to be treated with varnish or stain or painted, having previously been primed

We lay the tabletop on the finished base and fix it at the corners. We attach the legs-pads to the racks. We decorate furniture screws with plugs. That's it, the dining table is ready!

Ready-made universal option - tabletop and legs covered with stain

You can paint the legs White color, and cover the tabletop with stain to get an unusual design

If you decide to make a kitchen table with your own hands, then you must make sure that its design is practical, functional, and fits harmoniously into the design of the room. A table made independently has many advantages over factory-made copies - cost, original appearance and convenience.

Before starting production, consider the types of designs to choose the one that will fit into the interior. The dining table should be reliable, durable, stable and rigid. If you are new to carpentry, it is recommended to start by making primitive models that do not require high precision.

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Which table shape do you prefer?

Before you make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to decide on its shape. It is not the least important; It’s better to rely on factory models. Rectangular tables have the following tabletop dimensions:

  • 1500x900 mm – for 6 persons.
  • 2000x1100 mm – for 8 persons.
  • 2600x1100 mm – for 10 persons.
  • 3200x1100 – for seating 12 people.

According to etiquette, only 1 person can sit at the end, so the tabletop has a constant width, regardless of how many people the structure is designed for.

Kitchen round tables made by hand must have a diameter of:

  1. For seating 4 people – minimum 1100 mm.
  2. For 6 people – from 1300 mm.
  3. For 8 people – 1500 mm.
  4. For 10 people – from 1700 mm.

Standard square tables should have a tabletop measuring 900x900 mm so that 4 people can comfortably fit at it.

Manufacturers do not produce square tables large sizes– they take up a lot of space and accommodate fewer people than rectangular ones. Concerning oval tables, then they also became classics. They have an attractive appearance and are able to create an original atmosphere in the kitchen.

For small kitchens with an area of ​​less than 6 m², designs with a semicircular countertop are suitable. If the table is moved close to the wall, it will take up little space, but can accommodate the whole family. If the kitchen has large area, it is better to give preference to large structures.

Determination of overall dimensions

Before you make a kitchen table, you need to clearly determine its dimensions. You can find many designs on sale different manufacturers, and they have similar sizes. The dimensions of the structure depend on the number of people it is designed for and on the shape of the tabletop - oval, rectangle, circle.

If you are going to make a large kitchen table with your own hands, then you need to take into account the area of ​​the room. There are a total of 3 parameters that must be taken into account when choosing:

  • Table height. It depends on the height of the people living in the house, because they will sit at the table more often than anyone else. The height of most people is 1.6-1.8 m. Therefore, the height of almost all table designs is designed for such people - it is 0.9 m. It may differ from this value by 1-3 cm. If people sit at the table If you are more than 1.8 m tall, it is recommended to increase the height of the table to 1 m. It is possible to adjust the seating by changing the height of the chair legs.
  • The width of the table is important characteristic, which also affects the comfort of a person’s landing. It is recommended to allocate 0.6 m for one person. If there are 4 people in a family, and you plan to use a rectangular table with seating on both sides, then it is necessary that the width of the tabletop be 1.2 m. Having decided on the size of the tabletop and height, select a suitable drawing for making a kitchen table. But don't forget about the last parameter.
  • The depth for comfortable placement of one person is 0.4 m. But keep in mind that they are placed in the middle of the table various dishes, salad bowls, bread bins. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the depth by another 0.2 m. If the table is placed against the wall, then its depth must be 0.6 m. When seating on 2 sides, it is advisable to increase this parameter to 1 m.

If you are planning to make a small table for a small kitchen with your own hands, then it is better to give preference to folding or pull-out type designs. They allow you to save space in the room.

Review of materials for making your own table

The kitchen table can be made from any materials - metal, glass, ceramic tiles, but most of the structures are made of wood. Making a kitchen table from wood is a classic. But this material has a drawback - scratches, chips, and abrasions may appear on it.

All these problems can be solved - restoration is carried out, during which the old layer coatings, repairs and surface cleaning are carried out. Finally, tinting and varnishing are carried out. When using the product, the main condition must be observed - treat it with care.

Necessary tools and accessories

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you will need not only quality material without damage (both external and internal), but also the following fittings:

  1. Furniture corners.
  2. Eccentric bolts.
  3. Confirmations.
  4. To attach the legs you will need corner strips.
  5. When making folding tables, you need to purchase hinges.
  6. During production sliding structures Rollers will be required.
  7. Tables made from chipboard require padded legs.
  8. Tape for sticking on the end part.
  9. Plugs.
  10. Plastic profile for table top.

This is a standard set, but other elements may be required, it all depends on the design. You will also need the following tool:

  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Crafting table.
  • Electric drill, screwdriver.
  • Measuring accessories – rulers, tape measures, angles.
  • Metal scribe or carpenter's pencil.
  • Set of drills and bits.

Only after preparing all the materials, tools and fittings can you make a round or rectangular dining table.

Overview of DIY designs

Study the assortment in stores - this will help you decide what type you need. You may not find what will be on sale in the best possible way fit into the interior of your kitchen and you like it. Standard designs for homemade kitchen tables consist of the following elements:

  1. Tsar belt.
  2. Components for transformation.
  3. Tabletop.
  4. Drawers, shelves.

From the tabletop

You can easily make a table from an old tabletop with your own hands. Sometimes the supports - the legs - become unusable, the fastening elements are destroyed, but the base itself remains unharmed and can be used. For small kitchens you can do folding table. When folded, it will protrude no more than 20 cm. This saves space.

From wood boards

Before making a kitchen table with your own hands, decide on the material. If you need to save money, then it is better to use pressed sawdust for the table - fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and the like. You can even use laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 15 mm.

Before making a kitchen table from plywood, consider all the advantages and disadvantages of the material. Veneer can be applied to plywood kitchen counters. The best option plywood will be used for manufacturing - durable, comfortable, and visually attractive.

Plywood is a good and budget material. Plywood can be painted in any color or veneered. At the same time, distinguish from natural wood difficult.

Plywood is made from birch and retains its color and structure for a long time. The parts are connected using self-tapping screws and angles.

Pressed materials have a drawback: if damaged, they are difficult to restore; the element must be completely replaced. Over 5 years of operation, tables made of pressed sawdust wear out so much that it is useless to repair them. In terms of strength, these materials are the weakest - they can survive no more than 2-3 complete disassemblies and reassemblies. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws, which lose their adhesion to the wood in 2-3 cycles.

You can take furniture board, it has a high degree of strength, does not contain harmful substances, if necessary, it can be restored. But there is a drawback - difficulty in processing. Therefore, if you are making furniture for the first time, it is better to give preference to other materials.

Tables made of glass have an original appearance. It has high strength, attractive appearance, resistance to loads, temperature changes and humidity. But there are disadvantages - high cost and high complexity of processing.

From boards

You can make a kitchen table from boards with your own hands; it has an original appearance. The project can be implemented if you have minimal skills in plumbing. The legs for the structure can be used ready-made, or you can make them yourself from wood or metal elements (the use of profiled pipes is allowed). The tabletop is made of several identical wooden boards that fit tightly together.

Fasteners are made in the lower part, the entire upper surface is carefully polished, giving an almost mirror-like surface. But it cannot be left untreated - it is necessary to apply impregnation, primer and paint. If desired, you can apply up to 3 layers of varnish or cover it with decorative film.

Retractable option

A telescopic extendable table in the kitchen will fit well into the interior. The working surface can be doubled. This design is suitable for dining tables. But using it as a cutting material will be problematic - its stability is low. It is better to give preference to more reliable options.

From glass

If you decide to make a kitchen glass table with your own hands, then get ready to face difficulties. All sharp edges must be processed to prevent injury. There are several types of glass fastening:

Using a frame. In this case, a tabletop made of glass is placed in a frame made of metal or wood. This method is reliable, but it has a drawback - there will be gaps at the joints, and it will not be possible to completely get rid of them.
Using special devices. It can be done quickly; you just need to install suction cups.
Connecting parts together using adhesives. Please note that PVA glue is not suitable for this purpose - it is carpentry glue and is not capable of joining wood and glass. It is necessary to use an adhesive that polymerizes in ultraviolet rays. The cost of the glue is high, and special lamps must be used to harden it.

Made of metal

You can make a metal table for the kitchen with your own hands even from scrap materials. As a basis, you can take a table with a foot drive for sewing machines. If necessary, the height is reduced to 65 cm. The tabletop can be made from sheet metal(you just need to make a frame for strength) and from wood (plywood or MDF will do). Needs to be applied high-quality coating on metal to eliminate the possibility of rust and corrosion.

Tabletops of metal structures can be:

  1. Retractable - the tabletop increases, as a result you can fit 4 people.
  2. Sliding - in them the drawstring belt has a tab. If you use it, the capacity increases by 5-6 people.
  3. Mounted – special design allows you to increase the area of ​​the tabletop.

Corner model

If the room allows, then you can use corner structures. Before you make a corner table for the kitchen with your own hands, you need to decide on the installation location. The advantage of this type of design is that people are seated along the entire perimeter of the tabletop. Therefore, even a small table with dimensions of 60x60 cm can accommodate 4 adults.

The best material is wood. Benefits of using it:

  • It is easy to process.
  • The material is environmentally friendly.
  • From an aesthetic point of view it is attractive.

But there are also disadvantages of solid wood furniture:

  1. High cost of finished products.
  2. Requires care.
  3. High sensitivity to changes in temperature and humidity in the room.

From tiles

You can make a kitchen table from ceramic tiles with your own hands. Wood or plywood can be used for the base. Apply to a plywood table top adhesive composition, with which the tiles are attached. The design is practical - it is easy to wash, there is no need to use oilcloth. But the mass of the entire structure is large, so problems with transportation may arise.

From the windowsill

If you are planning to make a table from a window sill in the kitchen, you need to evaluate its advantages:

  • Saving room space.
  • The tabletop is easy to install, you just need to follow the instructions.
  • Aesthetic pleasure - such tables look attractive and unusual.
  • Energy savings - there is enough light, since the entire working surface is located near the window.
  • Wide selection of design solutions.
  • Low cost of the finished structure.

A window sill table also has a drawback - if you like to change your interior frequently, then you should not use such table designs.

Transformer

There is no need to confuse transforming and folding tables. The transformer has an initial state - starting surface. It initially looks like a standard table. But with a few movements its size can be increased by 2-3 times.

If you decide to make a transforming table for the kitchen with your own hands, then you need to select in advance the elements that will be used to attach the panels. Table Features:

  1. If you take it apart, the table will look like 2 small tabletops.
  2. There are slots on the sides that can be used when transporting the table and for hanging towels and napkins.
  3. At the bottom there is a hook for placing various kitchen accessories.
  4. Can be used as a bar counter.

With drawers

For convenience, you can create your own designs for kitchen tables with drawers. Two are enough; two drawers can be used constantly - in one you can store rarely used dishes, in the other you can store tablecloths or cutlery. Such simple elements improve the functionality of the finished table and save space.

But to install the boxes you need to use reliable fasteners, so choose them carefully. It’s not difficult to make a kitchen table with a drawer with your own hands, but you will need to plan it in advance detailed drawing and stick to all sizes. It is imperative to connect all parts of the box frame so that it does not collapse during operation.

What do you do with old furniture?