For many centuries, the color, shape and texture of tiles were for many peoples a kind of architectural ideal for roof covering. And our ancestors couldn’t have been wrong for so many years. The tiles, thanks to their scaly surface, withstand the vagaries of the natural elements and at the same time are pleasing to the eye. Done correctly tiled roof even after a century it does not give up its positions.

The roof with tiles is popular because... has a presentable appearance, and good performance characteristics.

The technology of laying tiles consists only in the fact that the tiles of the lower row must be covered with tiles of the upper row - this is the whole “trick”, and in this case you will get an airtight roof. You can find out all other details from professionals in this matter. Otherwise, the shingles may be mistakenly discredited, and they do not deserve that. In this article you will receive information about the features of laying this material in order to assess the complexity and labor intensity of the work yourself before turning to specialists for help.

Criteria for good tiles

The most important criteria indicators of quality tiles are low porosity and high density. Pores in large quantities contribute to high water absorption and, as a result, a decrease in the frost resistance of tiles. Moreover, the pores should predominantly be closed.

When choosing a material for roofing with tiles, you should remember that the structure of the tiles when scrapped should be uniform, non-laminated. The tiles should be well-fired and, when lightly tapped, produce a rattling-free, clear sound. In addition, there should be no limescale inclusions in the tiles.

Any tile - both cement-sand and ceramic - has a large mass: one square m of covering weighs 40-50 kg, and this figure varies depending on the shape of the tile and the slope of the roof. For this reason, molded ordinary tiles with a tooth-shaped protrusion in the upper part on the back side, which is designed for fastening to the sheathing beam, can easily stand under the weight of their own weight.

But good roofers do not trust only these fasteners. Today's tile roofing technology is thoughtful and reliable down to the details; it has everything you need and not a single extra detail.

Laying tiles: accessories and components

Snow guards for the roof will prevent snow from falling from the roof and prevent possible injuries.

In addition to the tiles themselves that make up the roof surface, manufacturers usually provide a full set of component elements, the number of which increases with the complexity of the roof geometry: wall tiles, half tiles, side tiles (right and left), cornice tiles (edge ​​and row), corner tiles (external and internal) , ventilation, etc.

A separate kit is provided for the ridge, when, in addition to the grooved ridge tiles themselves, the initial and end elements are included (mainly in decorative design), sculptural decoration pieces and hip joints. Installing shingles with this variety will allow roofers to avoid having to adjust and file tiles into place.

In order to more thoroughly treat the junction points and protect other important areas of the roof from moisture seepage when laying tiles, a set of the following components is used: corrugated tape on bitumen mastic, airtight ridge tape (for attics and mansard roofs), impregnated foam rubber seals for valleys, anti-bird curtain rod ventilation tape and much more. They are made, as a rule, from high-quality and corrosion-resistant materials: aluminum, copper, tin. To fasten the tiles, there are steel wire clamps, which have a special design for edged tiles. The skates are secured using clamps made of painted aluminum sheets. For ridge beam special fasteners are provided.

Accessories deserve special attention. First of all, these are snow-retaining elements (in the form of hooks, separate shelves or steps along the entire length of the slope, preventing damage to drainage systems and avalanche-like snow), devices for, for ventilation channels (ceramic heads, etc.).

Laying tiles: preparatory work

Since the type of roof is selected before the design begins, the rafter structure must take into account the approximate loads from the tiles themselves, from wind and snow. Usually this is reflected only in a decrease in the pitch of the rafters (the calculated load for a tile roof is only 20-25% greater than for a metal roof).

Installation and installation of ceramic tile roofing.

The cross-section and pitch of the sheathing are calculated after the customer has contacted the company that supplies the selected model with a roof project in sketch. Collateral correct installation are correct calculations and correct installation battens. In most cases, leading manufacturers develop calculation tables and recommendations for each type of tile, taking into account the length of the slope, the slope of the roof, and the length of possible overlap. The specialists of the supplier company expect required amount tiles, components and additional elements that will be needed for the roof, and in some cases they provide services for adjusting the project for a certain type of material.

Under tiles it is recommended to be 22-60 degrees. In exceptional cases, it is allowed to reduce the angle of inclination to 10 degrees, which requires additional measures for ventilation and waterproofing. The technology in this situation is as follows: a continuous flooring is used, along the rafters along which a counter-batten with a trapezoidal cross-section is stuffed, on top of which roll bitumen-polymer waterproofing is glued and directed, and only after that the sheathing is mounted.

The most optimal for laying tiles is considered to be a slope slope of about 40 degrees. This way, raindrops from getting under the roof are virtually eliminated even with a strong gust of wind. If the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, it is provided additional fastening each individual tile to the sheathing (using clamps or screws), which increases the time and cost of roof installation work.

Usually the lathing is made of wooden blocks with a section of 6x4 or 5x5 cm, its lowest row is made of boards 10 cm wide.

Since the tiles have a horizontal lock with play ( certain models make it possible to move the tiles vertically by an average of 30 mm), individual elements are able to move freely. For this reason, the coating can, without damaging the structure, receive deformations caused by the influence of temperature changes, strong gusts of wind, shaking, settlement of the structure, etc.

If a habitable space under the roof is planned, additional measures need to be taken. To maintain thermal insulation properties, the insulation that is placed between the rafters must be reliably protected. WITH inside this is ensured by a vapor barrier film, with outside – under-roof insulation, which is spread horizontally over the rafters with an overlap and is fixed along them using a counter-lattice.

Laying tiles: installation

Before starting work on laying tiles, all roofing and tin work must be completed and attic ventilation must be installed.

The technology allows installation alone due to the small size of the tiles. Usually the first two rows are laid standing on scaffolding or scaffolding. Then the roofer performs the work while sitting on a triangular bench attached to the sheathing for safety reasons.

Installation always starts from the lower right corner of the roof, moving from right side to the left. Every fourth tile is attached to the surface of the coating, and along the ridges and cornices, near ventilation devices, openings, chimneys and with a slope of more than 60 degrees - each tile.

The tiles are laid either in columns with vertical seams preserved, or in a checkerboard pattern with bandaging.

The installation technology of different types of material has its own nuances

Tape tiles

The method of laying strip tiles involves laying them in parallel rows, each odd row is finished with whole tiles, and the even row is finished with halves. The result is such a displacement of the tiles relative to each other, in which each upper brick covers the junction of the two underlying ones. Besides aesthetically pleasing, it is also reliable.

Flat tiles

Laying tiles belt method gives the roof not only aesthetics, but also additional reliability.

For aesthetic reasons, flat tiles are laid with a large vertical overlap. There can be a single overlap (with a single-layer roof) or a double overlap (as a result of which a two- or even three-layer coating is formed, since the lower rows overlap the upper ones by more than half the length of the tile). In the second case, more material is consumed per square meter and the roof is more expensive, despite the relatively low price of the tiles themselves, than when using tiles of standard shapes.

Due to the lack of a lock at the joints of adjacent tiles, their side edges can be trimmed. This makes it possible to use flat tiles to lay out curved surfaces, such as the conical end of a tower.

Tape tiles differ from flat tiles in that the former has a longitudinal groove designed for more durable fastening of elements.

Groove tiles

For simple pitched roofs groove tiles are used. It is laid in single-layer parallel rows with an overlap in the direction from the pediment along the cornice to the ridge: in length - by 0.7-0.8 cm, in width - by the width of the groove.

Features of stamped groove tiles include the presence of not only longitudinal, but also transverse flaps. Therefore, the technology for installing this type of tile involves fastening each tile to each other along the entire perimeter with closed folds that prevent water from penetrating under the covering. Such tiles are laid in a single layer in the direction from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap along the length and width of the tile by the length or width of the rebate.

Particular care must be taken in installing and securely fastening pieces of tiles cut diagonally (in abutments, valley ridges, hip ridges, etc.).

The quality of laying the tiles can be checked this way: you need to look at the diagonals of the largest slope. They should look like a straight line.

There are few things that can recreate the atmosphere of romantic Europe with cozy streets and memorable places like natural tiled roofs. Beauty and durability are the main features of this coating.

We are ready to take on the installation of ceramic tile roofing for your home, cottage or other functional premises. Professionally and in a short time, our roofers will transform your roof, making it a masterpiece of roofing art.

Cost of installation of ceramic tiles

If you need to build new roof and cover it with ceramics
	Type of work performed.	Cost, rub.	Unit of measurement.
	Installation scaffolding	From 140 rub.	M. sq.
	Mauerlat installation	From 250 rub.	M. linear
	Installation rafter system	From 600 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of a waterproofing membrane	0t 70 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of counter lathing	From 60 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of step lathing 50x50	From 160 rub.	M. sq.
	Laying ceramic tiles	From 550 rub.	M. sq.
	Construction of valleys, ends, cornices and junctions	From 500 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of a ventilated ridge	From 450 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of tubular snow retention	From 750 rub.	M. linear
	Ventilation comb installation	From 80 rub.	M. linear

If you need it to be warm
	Installation of steam insulation	From 70 rub.	M. sq.
	Internal filing board 25x150mm	From 160 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of insulation 200mm (4x50)	From 130 rub.	M. sq.

Additional accessories. Gutter.
	Gutter installation	From 550 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of a drainpipe	From 450 rub.	M. linear

Eaves part of the roof
	Making a cornice frame (up to 1 meter wide)	From 400 rub.	M. linear
	Lining the cornice with decorative material (soffit lining PSP panel)	From 200 rub.	M.pog

Dormer windows
	Installing a roof window in a finished opening	From 5000 rub.	PC.
	Installation of a roof window with the manufacture of an opening	From 8000 rub.	PC.
	Installation of external window frame (for all types of roofing)	0t 1500 rub.	PC.
	Installation of internal window frame (insulation)	From 600 rub.	PC.

How we are working

Construction of a roof followed by covering with ceramic tiles

The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out in stages. Since ceramic tiles have quite an impressive weight, they require special reinforced truss structure. In this example you can see how the process of constructing a roof with an area of ​​1450 square meters occurs. and its covering with ceramic tiles.

Stage 1

Receiving a call from a customer. Discussion of the proposed type of work. Receive the project in electronic form.

Stage 2

Study of the project. Calculation of the cost of materials and work.

Coordination with the customer.

Stage 3

Departure of a specialist to the site. Carrying out measurements of the building to coordinate the dimensions with the project data.

roofing works

Stage 8

Completion of roofing. Hemming of cornices. Installation drainpipes. Dismantling of scaffolding. Delivery of the object to the customer.

The construction of the roof took place in parallel with the internal and external finishing Houses. Despite certain difficulties, the roof was built within three months. The terms agreed upon in the contract were met.

We offer high-quality roofing materials from leading manufacturers. At a relatively low price, you can get a range of services: selection and purchase of tiles in Moscow, their installation and maintenance.

The laying of ceramic tiles is justified by the outstanding technical and aesthetic qualities of the material, the reliability of which is confirmed by almost a century of operation. Created by sintering natural components, natural tiles withstand the entire range of atmospheric factors. However, in addition to the advantages, the coating, which is “difficult” in terms of price and weight, also has disadvantages, namely the labor-intensive installation of piece elements and the need to scrupulously follow technological requirements.

Preparatory stage and calculations

Installation of ceramic tiles can be divided into two standard stages. The first of them consists of careful preliminary calculations and thorough preparation, the second part of the work is direct installation.

How many tiles should I buy?

A sauna roof made of natural tiles can have one, two, four or more slopes located under different angles. The tiles are installed with an overlap, the size of which depends on the steepness of the roof. The value obtained by subtracting the length required to form the overlap from the total length of the ceramic element is the useful length of the material. The usable width is indicated by the manufacturer in technical documents.

Based on the area obtained as a result of multiplying these “useful” parameters, the number of pieces required to equip one meter of roofing is calculated. But it is better to count the number of horizontal rows and vertical analogues, dividing the corresponding roof sizes by the usable width and length. All results obtained are rounded up with the expectation that entire ceramic parts will need to be trimmed.

Have you calculated? Now add another row of tiles to the result, as required when working with building ceramics, for “breaking” and trimming. Do not forget, using the same values, to calculate the number of additional parts for arranging the gables and ridge.

Calculation of material for waterproofing

Correct installation of natural tiles on roofs with a slope of up to 22º is carried out with the obligatory installation of a waterproofing layer. It is recommended to use rolled membrane material, laid with overlapping sheets of 10 cm, with overlaps along the lines of gable and pitched overhangs of 15 cm, with overlaps through protruding corners of 15-20 cm. The amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of ​​the slopes by 1.4.

Note. To ensure ventilation, the waterproofing membrane is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the ridge line. The ridge will need to be equipped with a special insulating tape.

The inlet will need to be left in the chimney passage area and in the wall junction area if the bathhouse is attached to a residential building.

Calculations of rafter legs and sheathing

The approximate weight of natural tiles per 1 m² of roofing is 40 kg. You also need to add snow load, characteristic of a particular region. Therefore, the rafter system must be powerful enough. But for its construction it is not necessary to use a thick beam; it is enough to shorten the installation step of the rafter legs. Optimal choice For rafter leg– timber with rectangular cross-section with side sizes of 75 and 150 mm, maybe a little larger or smaller. It is recommended to install trusses every 90 cm, or even better after 60 cm.

To construct the sheathing, you need to buy timber with dimensions of 50×50 mm; a rectangular analogue of 40×60 mm is also suitable.

Important. The laths laid along the eaves should be approximately 15-20 mm wider than the ordinary elements. This is necessary to form a uniform plane of the slope, because the previous elements overlap.

The number of rows of sheathing is equal to the number of horizontal rows of tiles plus one row running along the eaves.

How much fasteners will be required?

For fastening you need galvanized screws and special clamps. Fix ceramic coating elements in areas of high wind load. It is mandatory to attach the bottom row running along the eaves line, the row along the pediment and the ridge. If the installation of a roof made of natural tiles is carried out on a steep roof with a slope of more than 50º, additionally ordinary elements are fixed in a checkerboard pattern. In this option, one fixed tile will hold the upper and lower “neighbors”.

An important stage of preparation is verification.

Before constructing the sheathing for the ceramic coating, in order to avoid annoying mistakes and distortions, the dimensions of the rafter system being installed must be measured.

• At this stage, you can adjust the direction of the horizontal slats by arranging them in a fan pattern. In such situations, the distances between the laths are increased towards the larger pediment.
• Deviations in the vertical direction are eliminated using an identical fan method, by creating a slight backlash of the elements in the required direction.

Begin checking with diagonals along the slopes. If their sizes do not match, you need to measure each side of the pitched rectangle separately.

If roofing ceramics are installed on top of a waterproofing underlayment and insulation, the roof will need to be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first gap will be between the thermal insulation and waterproofing membrane, the second between it and the coating. So natural ceramic tiles, wooden parts and the insulation will be freed from excess moisture, thanks to which they will serve for a long time.

• First ventilation gap can be formed both by installing the sheathing and by laying an edged board with a thickness of 5 cm along the ridge. If waterproofing material will be used diffusion film, in the formation of this ventilation duct not necessary.
• The second gap for ventilation is provided by the installation of a counter-lattice.

The entire area is covered with waterproofing flooring. Laying the canvas begins from the bottom, moving towards the ridge. Lay in a horizontal direction with obligatory overlap and fastening the sheets together with a stapler or tape. You will also need to fix the flooring around the perimeter in increments of 20 cm.

Note. Between the slats, the flooring should sag slightly. Approximately 3 cm. Thanks to the sagging, the accumulated condensation and moisture will flow into peculiar recesses without lingering on the building materials.

Next, the sheathing under the tiles is installed according to the calculations described above. After installing this element roofing structure control measurements are carried out again. Verified correct installation lathing in a plane. If deviations of more than 5 mm are detected, leveling is carried out by lining wooden elements under the poles.

Installation ceramic elements

To ensure that laying natural tiles does not lead to destruction of the rafter system due to intensive movement along it, all the required material is lifted onto the roof at once. But you cannot place a heavy box of tiles on the rafters; you need to lay them out in stacks of 5 or 6 pieces, evenly distributing the batches over the roof.

• The first step is to lay out rows along the ridge and cornice without fixation. If it is not possible to place only whole parts in a row, trimming the ceramic elements is carried out on the ground with a grinding tool with a disc for cutting stone.
• Through the directions obtained as a result of the initial layout, the lines of the upcoming laying of vertical columns are marked with a dye cord. It is imperative to outline the pediment line and then lines every 3-5 vertical rows.
• The laid out tiles are fixed as indicated in the installation instructions for natural tiles, attached to the product by the manufacturer. According to the rules, they start from the lower right corner of the roof, moving in a row to the left, then up.
• Installation and fastening of additional parts for the ridge and gables is carried out. Before installing the shaped elements, it is installed on the ridge edged board, located edgewise. It should not come into contact with the ridge tiles. At the intersection points of the gable and ridge parts, they need to be adjusted to each other by trimming.
To move safely on the roof under construction, you need to provide yourself with a safety harness. Experienced builders also recommend installing rough sheathing.

Installing roofing ceramics is not an easy task. It is advisable to entrust it to professional performers. But even if installation is ordered, the owner needs to know the sequence and purpose of construction operations in order to promptly identify technological violations.

Makes your home stylish, sophisticated and charming. Moreover, such a roof without losing its beauty and shade. But this will only happen if it is installed correctly.

It is worth remembering that this material is suitable for roofs with a slope of more than eleven degrees (optimally fifty degrees). And today we will look at the technology for installing ceramic tiles, offer installation instructions and the price of work and materials per m2.

Clay ceramics is a material characterized by its solid weight. Therefore, in addition to arranging a strong rafter system, you need to think about how the tiles will be delivered to the roof. That is, provide suitable lifting equipment.

Transportation of tiles is carried out using special pallets (each weighs about nine hundred and fifty kilograms).

To attach individual roofing elements to the sheathing, galvanized (or stainless steel) screws, as well as nails and wire are used. Shingles typically have small keyhole-shaped holes in them. The fastening takes place through these holes. If you need to make additional holes, then use a special roofing tool - a hole punch designed for ceramic tiles.

And special steel cutters allow you to cut pieces evenly ceramic roofing. In addition, roofing pliers with lips of various lengths are produced to work with this material. They are made from durable induction-hardened steel. The rest of the tools are standard: screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver (for sheathing). If you don't have a cutter, you can use a grinder.

This video will tell you about the construction of a ceramic tile roof valley:

Material calculation

Whatever material the roof is made of, the entire structure must be able to withstand load forces of up to two hundred kilograms per square meter. To make the calculations correctly, add to this value the weight of the ceramic (about fifty kilograms per square meter).

Please note that during installation it is necessary to provide for an overlap depending on the slope of the roof. Its value is ten centimeters if the slope is less than twenty-five degrees.

• If the slope is increased (ranging from twenty-five to thirty degrees), then an overlap of seven and a half centimeters will be enough.
• And with a slope of over forty-five degrees, this value decreases to four and a half centimeters.

You can calculate the length of the material (useful) if you subtract from the total length of the ceramic part the size of the segment that is necessary to create an overlap. Well, the usable width is usually indicated in the instructions. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate how many tiles will be needed per square meter.

Number of individual roofing elements required to cover the entire length of the slope can be calculated based on their useful length. Dividing these two values ​​by one another, we get the number of rows. We multiply this number by the number of parts in the row and get total tiles for slope. To determine how much waterproofing is needed, multiply the total area of ​​the slopes by 1.4.

Another tip: you can use it for accurate calculations of all materials online calculator. There are quite a lot of them on the Internet.

We’ll talk about the technology of ceramic tile roofing below.

Technologies for installing ceramic tiles

First steps

Let's start with the sheathing. For it you will need bars of five by five centimeters (or six by four centimeters). Along the sections of the eaves we place wooden parts two centimeters wider than where the ordinary elements are located. The number of horizontal bars in such a sheathing will be equal to the number of rows of tiles with the addition of one more row - a cornice row.

For marking, templates cut to the size (height) of the tiles, as well as coated cord, are used. Horizontal slats are joined on the rafters. The sheathing pitch (optimal) is usually from thirty-one to thirty-four centimeters.

An aero element must be installed under the ridge for ventilation. A waterproof tape is placed along the entire length of the ridge. We should not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. There must certainly be space between the sheathing and the layer of tiles.

Before laying the tiles, they are distributed in stacks (about five pieces) over the entire surface of the roof. Then a row is laid on top - along the ridge of the roof. After this, we proceed to fixing the bottom row (along the overhang). We fix the elements only after we check whether they are laid correctly.

Instructions for installing ceramic tiles are presented in the video below:

Direct installation

We carry out installation starting from the bottom of the roof, moving upward. And also from right to left. At the end, ridge and pediment elements are attached. Moreover ridge elements should touch the edged ridge board only where they are attached. Where the roof ridge and gable intersect, adjustments will have to be made by cutting the tiles.

The tile itself can be of several types, each of which has its own fastening nuances.

• So, if it is a groove tile belt type, then it is placed with the rows overlapping each other, connecting using the existing grooves.
• The grooved stamped tiles are laid in the same way (only you will need more wire for them).
• But flat tiles of the strip type are devoid of grooves. It is also laid overlapping from bottom to top, with each odd row on the edge containing half a tile (brick laying principle). Protrusions outside and inside, as well as roofing nails, help with fastening.

Some installation tips:

• Holes for ventilation must be made under the eaves.
• When waterproofing is installed, a slight deflection is left between the rafters. The waterproofing layer is laid with an overlap of fifteen centimeters, securing it with nails at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.
• A little more waterproofing is placed under the valleys meter width. The overlap of the tile tiles on the valleys is approximately twenty centimeters.
• The thickness of the ridge board (equipped with mandatory aerators) must be at least four centimeters.
• By gluing self-adhesive tape (double-sided) to the valley, you can improve the waterproofing.
• If the valley is longer than six meters, it is necessary to lay out a row of ventilation tiles.

The cost of installing ceramic tiles is described below.

Cost of work

Having ordered the installation of tiles by professionals natural roofing, you'll have to spend money. It costs about seven hundred rubles per square meter.

This is if all components of the roofing system are standard. But if available complex shape roofs will require additional costs.

A specialist will tell you how to install the ridge and abutments when laying ceramic tiles in the video below:

Ceramic roofing is very beautiful, but quite expensive. If you good master, you can try to save on installation. Now I will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles yourself.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of tiles, you need to know the size of the roof, but not only that. The tiles are laid with an overlap, the amount of overlap is determined depending on the slope of the slope:

• Up to 16 degrees – from 10 cm;
• Up to 30 – from 8;
• Over 30 – from 7.

Ceramic tiles are laid on the roof using counter-lattice and sheathing. The second serves as a solid base for the coating, the first provides the necessary ventilation gap.

For the sheathing, sawn coniferous timber with a maximum moisture content of 25%, without knots, is used (SNiP, paragraph II-25-80).

• The pitch of the sheathing (and therefore the number of boards) depends on the slope of the roof and on the model of the tile (order - from 30 centimeters);
• The minimum cross-section of beams for sheathing and counter-lattice is 3 by 5 centimeters;
• For complex roofs or long slopes use a square beam with a side of 5 cm.

To calculate the amount of material and its final cost, you can use the services of our company.

Ventilation and thermal insulation

The technology for laying ceramic tiles involves a device ventilation system in the under-roof space. This is necessary so that inside roofing pie condensation did not accumulate, which leads to the destruction of the insulation and rafter system.

There are two options for constructing a roofing pie. In both cases, the main layers are the same:

• Vapor barrier (bottom layer);
• Insulation;
• Waterproofing.

The difference between single-layer and double-layer ventilation is that in the single-layer version there is only one air layer, directly between the waterproofing and the roof. Two-layer means the presence of two layers, the second - between the waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of technology depends on the waterproofing material. Only membranes with a vapor permeability of at least 750 grams per square can be placed directly on the insulation, which will protect the insulation from moisture and drain condensation to the outside.

note

The total height of the ventilation gap must be at least 20 centimeters. With a two-layer scheme, about two centimeters are left from the insulation to the film.

Apart from the device air gaps For roof ventilation when laying ceramic tiles, special elements are used:

• Skates;
• Cornice.

The types of elements are different:

• Hard aerators;
• Rolled ventilation films;
• Ventilation grates;
• Ventilation tiles.

Elements are selected depending on the type and slope of the roof.

The brand of insulation and layer thickness depend on the region. Examples (for roofs in the Moscow region):

• Mineral wool P175 (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.072) – 40 centimeters;
• Fiberglass (coefficient 0.044) s windproof membrane– 24 centimeters;
• Expanded polystyrene (0.032) - 15 centimeters.

Insulation and waterproofing

1. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the rafters from the inside (from the ceiling) with vertical and horizontal overlaps of at least twenty centimeters.
2. Fixed wooden slats. In the future, when arranging the ceiling, the panels (boards) should not come into contact with the vapor barrier.
3. The insulation is cut into blanks according to the width of the step between the rafters and placed between the rafters in a spacer.

Installation options for the top waterproofing layer

1. Installation of the film directly onto the insulation is carried out with the steam-removing side facing outwards, i.e. towards the roof covering.
2. The film should be rolled out along the cornice along the rafters, starting from the bottom row.
3. Recommended overlap during installation next row– approximately 10 cm for steep roofs. If the slope is less than 22 degrees, it is increased to 20 cm or the joints are taped with double-sided tape.

note

The film is secured with a stapler or roofing nails and finally fixed with counter-lattice boards.

Other methods:

• When using polyethylene-based membranes, the film is pulled over the rafters with a sag of one or two centimeters. At the same time, at least two centimeters should remain from it to the insulation. In cold weather, the film is stretched without sagging.
• With a small roof slope (within 16 centimeters), a welded roof can be used as a waterproofing layer. To do this, it is necessary to make a continuous flooring and fill it with trapezoidal counter-lattice slats up to 5 centimeters thick.

Our works

Lathing and counter-lattice

1. Along the rafters on top waterproofing film we lay counter-lattice bars approximately 1.3 meters long.
2. We fix it with galvanized nails every 0.3 meters not higher than the marker line on the film.
3. At the joints of opposite beams on the ridge, we saw the boards at an angle so that the joint is even. The angle of the cut will depend on the slope of your roof.
4. Between the beams of the valley or hip ridge and the main counter-lattice we leave a ventilation gap of about 10 centimeters.
5. We place the sheathing beams parallel to the earth's surface, starting from the overhangs.
6. The step between the first two bars (on the overhang) is from 32 to 39 cm (measured along the outer edges of the bars).
7. We place the third block under the ridge, at a distance of three centimeters from the joint of the counter-lattice bars. If the roof is steeper than 30 degrees - at a distance of two centimeters.
8. We measure the distance between the second and third beams along their upper edges.
9. We divide the resulting figure by the number of intermediate bars so that the step between them does not exceed the recommended parameters:

• Roof slope up to 22 degrees – 31-32 cm.
• Up to 30 – up to 33.5;
• Over 30 – up to 34.5.

We install the sheathing on other slopes in the same way.

How to lay ceramic tiles

Attention: in this article I will only tell you how to lay ordinary ceramic tiles, i.e. on the slopes. In addition to slopes, the roof has other nodes:

• Endovy;
• Ridge (except hipped roofs);
• Cornices;
• Connections (to pipes, skylights etc.);
• Gables have pediments;
• The hip and tent ones have ridges.

Another article is devoted to the installation of all these elements.

Tile laying technology:

1. Check the roof prepared for laying ceramic tiles for deviations from the plane. For two meters of roof, deviations for sheathing beams should not exceed half a centimeter.
2. Lay out the tiles on opposite slopes in columns of five to six tiles.
3. Lay out two rows, top and bottom, without fastening. If the length of the roof and the width of the tiles are non-multiple numbers, use half tiles.
4. Mark the outer rows of tiles on the sheathing. Additional markings– after 3-5 intermediate rows.
5. The bottom row of shingles should extend beyond the roof by one-third the diameter of the gutter running under the eaves.
6. Lay tiles from bottom to top. Secure the first row with 4.5 mm by 5 centimeter screws or anti-wind clamps.
7. On gable roofs, tiles are laid in the direction from one end to the other.
8. On the hips - from the middle of the slope, which needs to be beaten off with a marking cord from the top to the middle of the cornice.

note

You need to lay tiles on triangular slopes in the following order:

• Middle vertical row;
• Bottom horizontal row:
• Second row from the bottom, from the middle to the ridges;
• Third, etc. to the top.

Which tiles should be fastened with hardware?

• Bottom row (cornice);
• Upper (at the ridge);
• Lateral (at the ends and ridges);
• Any trimmed tiles;
• At the junctions.

If the area is characterized by high wind loads, all tiles must be secured.

For different models tiles, screws (self-tapping screws) 4.5 by 50 galvanized or universal clamps made of stainless steel can be used.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands is a long and energy-intensive process that requires highly qualified installers. Moreover, we are talking about expensive material.

Our company has extensive installation experience roofing coverings, ceramic tiles are no exception. Entrust this matter to us, and you will receive a beautiful, high-quality roof quickly and inexpensively.