Spark arrester for chimney: fire protection. How to make a spark arrester for a pipe - operating principle and installation methods Sparks from a chimney

A spark arrester is a device installed on the chimney of a bathhouse to prevent the emission of sparks that appear during the combustion of solid fuel. The design of the spark arrester is quite simple, so you can make it yourself. How to make a spark arrestor for a bathhouse with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Classification of spark arresters and their application

Before making a spark arrester for a bathhouse, you need to study the theory, and only after that move on to the practical part of the issue.

There are several main types of spark arresters:

Metal mesh casing;
Deflector;
Other designs.

Such devices are installed in the following cases:

If the roof of the bathhouse is made of materials classified as flammable, a spark arrester must be installed on the chimney;
The spark arrester is installed on the pipe coming out of the boiler, since due to the absence of elbows, sparks can escape directly through the chimney (read: " ");
It is mandatory to install a spark arrester on the bath pipe if the stove runs on solid fuel.

In addition to increasing fire safety, spark arresters also protect the chimney from various external factors - for example, birds flying into it. To avoid possible problems, it is worth installing spark arresters even if there is no need for this.

When assembling a spark arrestor for a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to choose the metal correctly - not just any material will do. For example, ferritic steel will wear out very quickly because its service life is extremely short. Galvanized material cannot be used for such purposes at all.

The best option for making a spark arrestor is stainless steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It can last quite a long time, resists corrosion well and is easy to cook. Aluminum zinc, which also has good characteristics. True, in this case the material will have to be secured using rivets.

Having selected the material, it is worth thinking about the size of the cells. If they are large, then sparks from the bathhouse pipe will easily pass through them, and small cells will become clogged very quickly and will have to be cleaned. As practice shows, the average size cells can vary from 1 to 5 mm.

Making a deflector

Deflectors are structurally a little more complex compared to their mesh counterparts, but this complexity is justified - the efficiency of such devices is much higher. There are several classic designs for making deflectors, and the choice is always individual.

The simplest and most convenient design is created using the following algorithm:

First, all elements of the spark arrester must be cut out on cardboard, having previously measured the diameter of the chimney pipe.
The internal part of the spark arrester can be made from a piece of pipe - by choosing the right diameter, you can simply put the structure on the chimney. If not suitable pipe, the required structure will have to be made independently from stainless steel sheets.
Top part The sleeve should have a slightly larger diameter. When making a sleeve from a pipe, one part of it will have to be rolled out. The length of the sleeve should reach the middle of the outer casing.
To create the main casing, a pipe or stainless steel sheet is used. The casing is placed over the sleeve and secured with rivets.
An apron is attached under the casing at a distance of 6 cm - a part of the spark arrester, visually similar to a curved saucer. Sparks will fall on the apron, so its dimensions must be larger than the dimensions of the casing. The same stainless steel is used to make the apron. A hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it, after which the apron is put on the sleeve and fixed by welding.
A cover is mounted on top of the casing, which is slightly smaller in diameter than the main pipe.
Rivets are used to connect individual parts (of course, before fixing, the necessary holes are drilled in the parts of the spark arrester).

The assembled spark arrester for the chimney for the bath is installed in its place and fixed. The structure is ready, and now the bathhouse can be used without any problems.

Manufacturing a mesh spark arrestor

If the design of the deflector seems too complicated, then you can make a spark arrestor from a metal mesh. It is not so effective, but it is often chosen for its simplicity of design, which makes it possible to assemble such protection with your own hands.

The assembly algorithm looks like this:

The first step is to cut out the necessary elements from thick cardboard.
When arranging the mesh, the sleeve is not equipped with an external casing - the structure is put on top of the bath pipe. The sleeve is made in the same way as in the previous case - from a sheet of stainless steel or a piece of pipe of appropriate size.
Two rods with a cross-section of about 5 mm 2 are welded to the mesh. A ring is bent from the mesh, which can be securely located in the internal cavity of the sleeve. When bending the mesh, you need to tap it with a hammer to reduce the stress on the metal.
The ring at the junction is welded, installed in the sleeve and fixed in any way.
A visor is attached to the protruding parts of the rods.

A spark arrester created in this way will provide adequate protection of the bathhouse from fire.

Other spark arrester circuits

Sometimes, instead of the traditional deflector and mesh, bathhouse owners use other devices that prevent sparks from flying out of the chimney.

The most commonly used methods of protection against sparks are:

A piece of pipe is placed on the upper edge of the chimney, the end of which is tightly welded. Several holes are cut into the side of the pipe through which the smoke will pass.
There is a fairly simple design for which the mesh is welded into the inside of the chimney. The problem with this scheme is that the contaminated mesh will have to be completely cut out.
If there are constant winds in the area, the chimney can be closed with a good deflector, but if there is no wind, then it will not be possible to use the bathhouse - there will be no draft.
For protection, you can also install a chimney with several elbows. Sparks will be extinguished by bending. In addition, this design will slightly increase the amount of heat released into the bathhouse.

Conclusion

This article examined the most common spark arresters for baths. You can even assemble these devices with your own hands - it’s not particularly difficult, but that’s all existing schemes quite simple.

Many owners of private houses, dachas and suburban buildings sooner or later they decide to build a bathhouse. However, in order for the future construction to meet all safety requirements, it is important to think through and equip a fire protection system in advance. One of the most indispensable fire-fighting means is a spark arrestor, which prevents the occurrence and further spread of fire.

With this device you can protect your home from fire

general information

The key component of a real Russian bath is a bath stove, which is heated with solid fuel. At the stage of constructing the structure, it is necessary to correctly install both the tank itself and the smoke exhaust system in order to avoid poisoning by combustion products, as well as to prevent fire of walls or partitions. In this case, the chimney should not create a fire hazard outside the room. To do this, many people install a spark arrester on the pipe.

Unfortunately, most owners do not attach much importance to this element, believing that they can do without it. However, fire does not forgive mistakes, and excessive negligence can lead to disastrous consequences.
In fact, it’s not at all difficult to make and install a spark arrester on a chimney with your own hands, so it’s better to be patient and take the time to arrange such an important unit, and only then start using the brand new bathhouse.

You can make a spark arrestor yourself
Built-in spark removal systems
It is no secret that solid fuel used to heat sauna stoves can have different qualities. Quite often, its combustion leads to the appearance of many sparks, that is, hot unburned particles rapidly moving upward with a stream of hot gas. These sparks move along the chimney pipe and fly out at great speed, and then scatter in all directions.
At night, you can see whole “sheaves” of remains of combustible wood. The spectacle is exciting, but it can have dire consequences.

Once outside, sparks can hit the roof structure or its parts. wooden elements. And in the presence of a strong wind, they can lead to the ignition of dry leaves, grass or pine needles, which will cause irreparable losses. Timely measures are the key to successful fire protection.
In this video you will learn how to make a spark arrestor:
To extinguish sparks, it is enough to place special parts with high thermal conductivity in the chimney system. Upon contact with them, the hot particles will lose their thermal potential, slowly cool down and become safe. By the way, in many modern ovens There are already special units for the bathhouse with a quick spark extinguishing function.
The principle of operation of such mechanisms very simple:
Air enters the stove through a special door, and into the combustion chamber through the grate.
The fuel burns, heating the heater.
As a result, hot combustion products pass through a special “labyrinth” of jumpers, where active heat transfer occurs. As a result, under the influence of centrifugal forces, sparks escape from the general flow, break against the walls of the chambers and are extinguished.

But it is important to understand that at this moment the oven is already heating up to high temperatures, so it is often impossible to completely get rid of sparks. Owners often use curved designs chimneys, since in straight sections the probability of spark emissions is maximum. In this case, the operating principle remains similar to the previous one - the direction of the flow of sparks with the walls of the chimney system changes.

This device It has simple diagram work
Installation subtleties
However, it is not recommended to equip such nodes with your own hands, experimenting with configurations. It is important to understand that a high-quality chimney system must be equipped with certain considerations. Oversaturation with curved parts will not lead to anything good, except for a change in the level of traction.
To achieve ideal balance, a simple structure - a spark arrester - is placed on the head of the pipe. Decline thermal potential occurs:
By abruptly changing the direction of flow.
By arranging artificial barriers in the form of mesh, gratings and other parts that do not interfere with the free exit of smoke, but guarantee the maximum percentage of absorption of unburnt particles due to their contact with metal components.

Some chimney spark arresters support both operating principles, making them more productive. Moreover, regardless of the presence or absence of a spark arrester on the pipe, it must have the correct location on the roof slope.

It is more practical to make a spark arrester that supports both operating principles
The simplest models of spark arresters
Ready-made spark absorption systems are available in specialized retail outlets. In addition, you can order them from a familiar tinsmith. However, with minimal plumbing skills, you can make the accessory yourself.
Among the most simple models- a plugged section of pipe with holes on the side walls. They can have a round or slot-like shape. A pipe with an increased diameter is selected for the chimney so that it can be put on top, but without a large gap. A plug is welded to the pipe at the top, and small holes are made on the walls. They can be placed either in rows or in a checkerboard pattern. Often, skilled craftsmen replace these slots with horizontal slits, which can be made with a sander.
Despite its simplicity, the scheme is not very popular. This is explained by a lot of disadvantages, including:
difficulties in calculation optimal quantity and hole diameter for comfortable traction;
the need for frequent cleaning of the accessory due to the rapid accumulation of soot.

In addition, accumulations of carbon deposits inside the pipe can cause a bad odor inside. bath room. In general, it is better to be more patient and make a better spark arrester.
Another simple option for a spark arrester for a bathhouse is to cover the outlet of the pipe with a regular metal mesh. You can use a ready-made lattice structure, which is secured around the pipe with a reliable clamp. You can also try to create a rim with fasteners - brackets.
It should be noted that such simple options are widespread in specialized stores. However, if you have time and desire, it is better to make them yourself.
The disadvantages of this scheme are rapid pollution the internal space of the chimney pipe. Because of this, it is necessary to abandon too fine a grid.
As a result, this leads to a paradox - a rarer grate has a minimum working area, which does not cope well with hot coals and allows them to pass out. The spark absorption efficiency is seriously degraded.

First stage
To understand how to make a spark arrester for a chimney with your own hands, just carefully study the step-by-step instructions and prepare the necessary materials. First you need to decide on a suitable model, shape and size. There are no special restrictions regarding raw materials. The main thing is that the material has a high degree of thermal conductivity and can withstand extreme temperatures.

Before starting work it is necessary to carry out the following actions:
Calculate optimal sizes by taking measurements from the inner surface of the pipe.
Select stainless steel sheets.
Buy a metal grill with cells.
Find the necessary means and tools (metal scissors, grinder, drill, pliers, hammer, compass, riveter, paper and rulers).
Buy a clamp with a suitable diameter and rivets.

If your home workshop has a rental machine, the final product will be of such high quality that it will differ little from the factory one. If such equipment is not available, do not despair - good quality can be achieved with a regular hammer.
In the absence of a riveter, it is customary to use a welding installation. When using such a device, it is important to be careful, otherwise you may burn unnecessary holes. When choosing suitable raw materials, it is better to give preference to high-quality stainless steel. In this case, both solid and perforated sheets with a diameter of up to 5 mm are used.
The mesh size of the metal mesh should be 4-5 mm. Cells that are too large are ineffective, and cells that are too small seriously interfere with free gas exchange and smoke transmission.

Step by step instructions
After selecting the spark arrester model, you can begin to draw it on paper, taking into account the pre-compiled parameters. For work, paper, compass, pencil and ruler are used. The drawing is created to actual size with care - it will be used as a prototype of the finished design.

Add another 1-2 centimeters along the edges. They are needed for connecting elements. The next step is to cut out the prototype with scissors and assemble it to get a basic idea of the future product.
On next stage You can start cutting out the parts of the spark arrestor. These include an umbrella, strip holders, a mesh cylinder, and a piece of pipe with the optimal diameter. Next, the components are assembled using a riveter. If you don't have a tool, you'll have to resort to a welding machine.
When assembling the spark arrester, it is necessary to take into account the features of the model. If we're talking about about a regular accessory without deflector functions, it is important to avoid the appearance of gaps between the components.

When installing a spark arrester with deflector functions, first you need to assemble the deflector for the chimney, and drill connecting holes with a “skirt” at a distance of 6 cm from the bottom edge. Some craftsmen refuse to make a spark arrestor and get out of the situation by changing the configuration of the chimney. To do this, you should determine the type and shape of the pipe, and then begin the following manipulations:
If the pipe is made of metal sheet, then you need to make holes in it in the upper part, and close the head tightly with a lid.
When arranging square chimneys, they are simply covered with a mesh on top.
To reduce the draft, you can use a simple method - close the valve.

The first method is considered the most complex; it has a lot of disadvantages. These include the rapid clogging of the holes with soot and the need for frequent cleaning of the cylinder, so experts recommend using other options in which the spark arrester is easily dismantled.
Node installation
After successfully assembling all parts of the spark arrester, you can begin final stage- installation of the accessory on the chimney pipe. To perform the action you need to climb onto the roof, and if its height is too high, you will need help.
When installing a spark arrester, a special rivet mechanism or metal rod is used. Some of the craftsmen recommend abandoning both options, using welding instead.
However, such advice has a lot of pitfalls, since the design follows fire safety rules. Instead, experts advise using a clamp with a suitable diameter that will allow the system to be tightly and securely fixed to the chimney.
When using rivets, you need to make holes in advance on the pipe and on the spark absorber itself. Next, the product is put on the chimney and secured with a riveter. It is better to give preference to stainless steel fasteners, which have an extended service life.

A conscientious owner building a bathhouse on his site will have to think about not only the comfort and amenities of the future building. Great value have problems ensuring the overall safety of the operation of such a structure. And one of the key issues in this area is a well-thought-out fire safety system.

One of the main elements of a real bathhouse is a stove, which, as a rule, runs on solid fuel. Required to provide correct installation both the stove itself and the chimney system, so as to prevent the possibility of poisoning by combustion products, to exclude the possibility of fire of walls and ceilings and roofing. And one moment - chimney in itself should not become a potential source of danger outside the bathhouse. This can be ensured by making and installing a spark arrester on the bathhouse pipe with your own hands.

There is no need to console yourself with false confidence that you can live without this element - fire does not forgive negligence. Making a spark arrester is not that difficult, but then you can be sure that there is no danger from this side.

Why do you need a spark arrester? The principle of its operation.

The solid fuel used in sauna stoves is not always of the same quality. Often its combustion is accompanied by abundant formation of sparks - hot unburned particles that rush up the chimney with a stream of hot gases.

Probably many people have seen a picture where red sparks jump out of a smoking chimney - this is especially noticeable at dusk or in the dark. It happens even more powerfully – when whole “sheaves” burst out of the crater. The spectacle is certainly beautiful, but it is fraught with great danger.

Unburned hot particles can fall onto the roof or wooden elements of the roof structure. The wind can easily carry them tens of meters away, and the largest of them can cause fires in dry leaves and pine needles, grass or hay, surrounding buildings or trees. In a word, if such a phenomenon is noticed, measures must be taken immediately.

You can extinguish sparks by ensuring that along the path of their movement there are contacts with surfaces or parts that have high thermal conductivity. Hot particles lose their thermal potential, “go out”, and no longer pose a great danger.

The very design of many sauna stoves provides a pre-spark extinguishing function.

Air (wide blue arrow) enters the stove through the blower door (item 1), penetrates through the grate (item 2) into the combustion chamber (item 3), ensuring fuel combustion and heating of the heater (item 4). Further, hot combustion products (wide red arrows) do not immediately enter the chimney pipe (position 6), but pass through a kind of “labyrinth” created by special jumpers (position 5). Active heat transfer occurs here, and in addition, due to a sharp change in the direction of movement, unburned particles (thin red arrows) under the influence of centrifugal forces escape from the general flow of gases, hit the walls of the chambers, and a significant part of them is extinguished here.

However, speech itself is red-hot, and often simply cannot completely extinguish all the sparks. Since emissions of unburnt particles are most likely on straight chimneys, this phenomenon is also combated by adding horizontal sections. The principle here is exactly the same - changing the direction of flow and contact of sparks with the walls of the pipe.

True, it’s better not to experiment with this yourself. The chimney requires a certain calculation, and it is impossible to “oversaturate” it with broken sections - this will negatively affect the draft level, which will pose a different kind of danger.

To achieve the desired “compromise”, a special simple device called a spark arrestor is installed on the head of the pipe. Here two principles can already be applied to reduce the thermal potential of hot particles to a safe level:

So, as described above - sudden changes direction of flow of combustion products.
Creation of artificial barriers (mesh, grate, etc.) that will not prevent smoke from escaping, but will ensure a high probability of contact of unburned particles with metal parts structures with high thermal conductivity.

Many spark arrestor designs use these two principles in conjunction with one another.

We can do one more thing important note. Regardless of the presence of a spark arrestor on the head of the pipe, it itself must be correctly located on the roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard, which are shown schematically in the figure:

Distance from the roof ridge to the chimney pipe, L, mm Location of the pipe head

The simplest models of spark arrestors

A spark arrester for a chimney pipe of any diameter can be purchased at a specialized store or ordered from a master tinsmith. However, if the owner of the bathhouse has plumbing skills, then he will be quite capable of making such an accessory himself.

The simplest spark arrestor is a plugged section of pipe, on the side walls of which round or slot-like holes are drilled or cut. Schematically it looks like this:

Chimney pipe – pos. 1. A piece of pipe (item 2) of a slightly larger diameter is selected for it, so that it can be put on top, but does not give a large gap. A plug is welded in the upper part (item 3). Holes (item 5) are placed on the walls of this improvised spark arrestor - in rows or in a checkerboard pattern. Instead of holes, you can cut horizontal slots with a sander. Inside this cylinder there are stops (item 4) for fixing the spark arrester on the head.

Although the scheme is simple, it is not particularly widespread due to a number of shortcomings. Thus, it is very difficult to calculate the number and diameter of holes required to ensure normal traction. Such a spark arrester will have to be removed quite often for cleaning, since the holes will gradually become overgrown with soot. And the accumulation of carbon deposits on the inside of the cylinder can lead to the appearance of a rather unpleasant burning smell in the bathhouse.

In a word, this is a design “for the lazy.”

Another simplest option– simply cover the chimney outlet with a mesh (grid). This can be done by using a ready-made metal mesh, securing it around the pipe with a clamp, or by making a rim for it with brackets for fastening. By the way, even such primitive options are found on sale, but there are probably no problems in making such simple design on one's own.

There are also a lot of disadvantages to this scheme. You can’t install too much netting – it will overgrow very quickly. And the rarer one has a very small total “working” area, almost coinciding with the cross-sectional area of the pipe. On the upper straight section of the chimney, hot gases gain decent speed, and there is no guarantee that hot solid fragments will straight motion will not slip through the bars. That is, the efficiency of spark extinguishing still remains not at its best.

The mesh cells can be reduced, but this will require increasing its total area so that the smoke escapes without reducing draft. This is achieved by installing a higher mesh “dome” above the pipe head - another simplest version of a spark arrester. Sometimes a welded lattice structure, cylindrical or spherical in shape, is used, which is mounted on the chimney.

These are already quite functional spark arresters, but with one common drawback. They are not provided with protection against atmospheric precipitation entering the chimney pipe, in other words, there is no “roof”. But if you complement this design with an “umbrella”, you will get a quite decent and practical accessory.

By the way, this is one of the most common models produced and industrial enterprises, and private craftsmen. It is quite possible to make such a spark arrester yourself.

Making a simple spark arrester yourself

First, let's look at the general basic drawing of a simple spark arrester:

1 – cylindrical pipe – a glass that is either put on the chimney pipe and fixed with a regular clamp, or is inserted into it. Depending on the design, it may be slightly flared or have a vertical cut, or vice versa - the lower part narrows slightly.

2 – metal grid, with cells no less than 1 and no more than 5 mm. Sometimes a welded lattice structure made of steel rod with a diameter of up to 5 mm is used instead.

3 – rainproof cone-shaped “mushroom” cap.

4 – racks that connect all the parts into a single structure.

5 – rivet connections.

The dimensions of such a spark arrester have a certain pattern, depending on the diameter of the chimney (the lower pipe of the device). For ease of work, the average values are given in the table:

ParametersValues, mm


D	80	100	110	120	130	140	150	160	180	200	230	250
D1	160	200	220	250	280	300	360	400	450
H1, min	50	50	50	50	50	50
H2	150	150	150	150	200	200
H3	50	50	50	70	70	70

It would be most convenient to make such a spark arrester from a sheet of galvanized steel, 0.6 ÷ 1.0 mm thick. It is more convenient to work with a thin sheet, but with a thick sheet the structure is more reliable.

In addition, it is best to purchase a ready-made mesh - galvanized or stainless, with a cell of about 3 ÷ 5 mm. It is convenient to use a rivet gun for connections, but only steel rivets should be used - aluminum will not be entirely reliable under these conditions.

To cut metal you will need special scissors; in straight sections you can also use a grinder. You also cannot do without an electric drill - for drilling holes for rivets.

To make blanks (bending metal along lines), you need a workbench with a metal corner or just a piece of profile (channel, angle, etc.) with smooth edges. The production of some round parts will be easier if there are original templates from pipes of different diameters.

If you have no experience in tin work, then it is best to first make a model from thick cardboard, naturally in full size. After successful testing, cardboard parts will become excellent patterns for transferring dimensions onto a sheet of metal.

To begin with, parts developments are made.

A. With the lower “glass” everything is quite simple. To roll a cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle whose length is equal to the circumference of the base.

Development of a cylinder - “glass”

From the geometry course it is known that the circumference (L) is equal to:

L = π × D, Where π ≈ 3,14, A D– required cylinder diameter.

In this case, a mounting valve with a width of M, equal to 15 ÷ 20 mm - a rivet connection will be made in this place

Such a strip is carefully bent, for example, using a pipe, the edges are aligned, holes are drilled and secured with rivets. For a height of 50 ÷ 100 mm, two pieces will be enough.

B. The blank for the mesh cylinder is made in exactly the same way. The only difference is that when assembling the cylinder itself, it is advisable to lay strips of metal about 10 mm wide on both sides at the junction, and then rive it.

IN. Probably the most difficult thing in this design is to make a cone-shaped cap. However, if you carry out the correct calculation, then this part should come out easily. The main thing is to correctly perform the development (pattern of the cone). To do this, you need to again “immerse” yourself somewhat in geometry.

Obviously, when folded, a cone can give us a circle in which a sector of a certain angular size is cut out. This means that it is necessary to determine the dependence of the diameter and height of the cone on the diameter of the workpiece and the size of the sector.

It is clear that the length of the lateral component of the cone ( WITH) will be equal to the radius of the workpiece. Of the known quantities we have required height manufactured part ( h) and its diameter ( D). Based on this, it is possible to determine and WITH- according to the familiar Pythagorean theorem. WITH is the hypotenuse of a right triangle with legs h And D/2

C = √ (h² + (D/2)²)

Thus, the required radius of the workpiece is obtained.

Now we determine the angle of the cut sector.

It is clear that the circumference of the base of the cone will be equal to the length of the circular arc of the workpiece, which will remain after cutting out the sector.

The circumference of the base of the cone is determined by the formula:

Lк = π × D

Now let’s determine the circumference of the whole workpiece, up to the cutout:

Lз = π × 2С

It's easy to calculate the difference:

Δ L = Lз - Lк

Now it remains to solve a simple relationship:

360° → Lз

α → ΔL

According to the rule of proportion:

α = ΔL × 360/ Lз

This is how the angle of the cut sector is obtained.

For example, we calculate the development of a cone with a diameter of 240 mm and a height of 70 mm

The side (and radius of the workpiece) is:

WITH = √ (70² + 120²) = 139 mm

Cone circumference:

Lк = 3.14 × 240 = 754 mm

Circumference length of the whole circle of the workpiece:

Lз = 3.14 × 2 × 139 = 872 mm

We get the difference:

Δ L = 872 – 754 = 118 mm

Now you can immediately determine the angle of the cut sector.

α = 118 × 360/ 872 = 48.7 ≈ 49°

All that remains is to use a protractor to transfer this angle to the marking of the workpiece with the previously calculated radii and cut it out. At the same time, again, do not forget about the mounting valve for rivets - it is shown in the diagram.

The finished cut out reamer is carefully rolled into a cone (to do this, you can lightly “roll” it on a horizontally fixed metal pin or small diameter pipe). Then you can clamp the cone with a clamp, drill mounting holes and install rivets, finally fixing the part.

G. Another component of the overall design is the racks, which connect all the parts into a single assembly.

The racks are made of the same sheet metal, but for strength it is better to make them three-layer. To do this, when drawing the workpiece, fold lines are provided (shown in dotted lines, so that the outer “shelves” are approximately 2 mm narrower than the central one. Usually, a total rack width of 15 mm is sufficient.

The length may vary depending on the size of the structure. In this case, the need for a margin at the bottom must be taken into account - at least 20 mm to accommodate one or two rivets for fastening to the glass. From above, the edge of the pillar is bent at the desired angle, so that a platform approximately 15 mm long is obtained - in these places the “umbrella” cone will be attached with rivets.

Often the racks are also placed at an angle to the vertical - from the pipe to the edges of the “fungus”. This trapezoidal layout makes the overall structure somewhat stronger. However, this is not of decisive importance.

There can be three racks - then they are placed at an equal angular distance of 120°, or four - with placement at 90° intervals.

The numbering of positions is the same as in the diagram in direct projection.

So, as already mentioned, to begin with it is better to draw out and make the entire structure from thick cardboard. This will help you finally figure out how to pair the parts with the required length of the posts. After a successful experiment, cardboard scans will become ready-made template for marking metal sheets.

When all the parts are ready, you can proceed to final assembly.

First of all, the stand is attached strictly vertically to the branch pipe - the “glass” with one or two rivets.
The mesh cylinder is inserted into the space between the posts so that it fits slightly into the lower “glass” and rests on the rivet heads. The height of the mesh should be such that it rests on top of the umbrella cone during final assembly.
If the racks are located vertically, then for greater strength you can rivet the mesh to them - one rivet per rack.
Next, the “fungus” is set. The mounting pads of the racks are precisely bent so that they fit snugly against the inner surface of the cone. Through holes are drilled through the umbrella and posts, and the entire structure is finally fixed with rivets.

In fact, the assembly of the spark arrester is complete - you can safely install it on the bath pipe and no longer be afraid of the possibility of sparks flying out.

Video: the work of a tinsmith making some spark arrester parts

Manufacturing a spark arrestor deflector

Devices that combine the functions of a spark arrester and deflector perform well. Especially this one structural element important for baths located in open, windy areas. Not only that, the wind can carry sparks over a long distance. When increasing speed, the effect “ reverse thrust”, when, instead of going outside, the smoke begins to penetrate back into the room, poisoning the bathhouse atmosphere and becoming a threat to the health of the people there. Using a spark arrestor deflector solves both problems at once.

The wind does not directly affect the cut of the chimney pipe - the special design of the deflector makes air flow(shown by blue arrows) go around the head from top to bottom and on the sides. In this case, the movement of air is accompanied by the phenomenon of injection - some vacuum inside the deflector, which only increases traction and will never allow the opposite effect.

At the same time, the flow of hot gases with unburned particles contained in it (shown by yellow arrows) makes two sharp turns almost 180 degrees. In this case, all sparks are guaranteed to come into contact with the metal surfaces of the structure, which leads to their extinction.

There are many different different models deflectors - spark arresters. For self-made you can take the TsAGI deflector, which is very common and proven by many years of practice. The name comes from the abbreviation of the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute named after. Zhukovsky, whose specialists once developed this device.

In general terms, a spark arrestor deflector of such a design can be schematically depicted using the following diagram:

1 – pipe – “glass”, with which the deflector is placed on the chimney pipe. All other dimensions of the device parts depend on the diameter of this part - D.

2 - Pipe-diffuser, which is a truncated cone expanding upward. Its diameter D1 in the wide part should be equal 1.25× D. Height, H2 + H1 = D

5 – cone-shaped umbrella, approximately the same as that of the previously considered spark arrester model. Cone base diameter - D2 = 1.7 × D. Cone height, H4 = 0.3 × D

6 – cylindrical outer casing. Its diameter D3 = 2 × D. Overall height - H2 + H3 + H3 = 1.2 × D

3 - An apron can be located under the casing - a tray that prevents sparks from hitting the roof, and additionally serves as a partition to change the direction of gas flow. This apron has a diameter equal to the diameter of the casing, or 5 ÷ 7 mm larger. The shape is slightly curved with the outer contour upward, like a saucer. For strength, radial stiffeners are often rolled onto the apron. To prevent moisture from collecting in it, you can drill a drainage hole.

The entire structure (with the exception of the interface between the “glass” and the diffuser) is assembled on common brackets-posts (item 4) with a rivet connection (item 7). The number of posts is the same as for the above-described model - three, sometimes four. However, the brackets have a more complex curved shape - but this is also easy to calculate during the initial assembly of the layout.

What else is important? The outer cylindrical casing must be positioned at a height H1, with the lower edge exactly in the middle of the diffuser. The upper edge of the fungus cone coincides in level with the upper edge of the casing.

In principle, the assembly should be fairly clear from the diagram and from the example of a spark arrester with mesh discussed earlier. The main differences are more details, more complex configuration brackets, no mesh. And the main difficulties are the manufacture of a truncated cone - a diffuser and its connection to a cylindrical glass.

To make a development of a truncated cone, you will again have to return to geometric calculations. The task is somewhat complicated by the fact that the height of the full cone is unknown in advance before it is truncated. And the initial values are the two diameters of the circles lying at the base and at the top of the truncated cone (the diagram shows the radii), and its given height.

The development is a ring limited by two circles: an outer one with a radius Rzn, and internal - R sound. These are essentially the sides of the triangle shown at the top of the diagram (green arrows).

So the height N is generally unknown, but it is necessary to determine R zn. But we have a given cone height N to and both diameters. The triangle similarity rule is turned on:

Base radius Do/2 (Ro) refers to the overall height N same as radius difference Δ R– to a given height of a truncated cone Nk. And in this equation we know all the quantities, except the total height:

Ro : H = ΔR : Nk

Δ R = (Dо – Dв)/2 = Ro - RV

In total we get:

N = Ro × Hk: (RO - RV)

Having the heights of right triangles, it is easy to determine their hypotenuses using the Pythagorean theorem. This will give you the outer radius of the ring circumference (Rzn) reams and ring width (Sk), which will make it possible to determine the internal radius.

Rzn = √(Н² + Do²/4)

Rsv = Rzn - Sk = Rzn - √(Нк² + Dв²/4)

We've sorted out the ring, but now we need to find out the angle of the sector being cut out of it. Here, in fact, there is a complete analogy with the calculation of a regular cone. You can take the outer radius of the workpiece as a basis for calculations.

The length of a whole circle is:

Lz = 2 × π ×R zn

When the cone is rolled up, the circumference of the base will be:

Lk = π ×DO

The difference between these values (arc length of the cut sector) will be:

ΔL = Lh - LTo

Considering that there is 360° in a circle, it is easy to calculate the angle of the removed sector using the ratio:

α = ΔL × 360/ Lh

You can consider an example in relation to our deflector. It is required to develop a truncated cone with a height Hk = 150 mm, large diameter Do = 190 mm, smaller – Dв = 150 mm

Determine the height of the non-truncated cone:

H = 95× 150 / (95–75) = 712 mm

Outer radius of the reamer ring:

Rzn = √(712² + 190²/4) = 718 mm

The width of the reamer ring is:

Sk = √(150² + 150²/4) = 167

Thus, the internal diameter is:

Rsv = 718 – 167 = 551 mm

Length of the whole circle of the workpiece:

Lh = 2 × 3.14 × 718 = 4509 mm

Circumference of the base of the cone:

Lk = 3.14 × 190 = 557 mm

Thus, the cut sector should be:

α = (4509 – 557) × 360/4507 = 315°

In total, our workpiece itself turns out to be a fairly narrow sector, with an angular width of only:

360 – 315 = 45°

After the development is calculated and cut, a truncated cone-diffuser is rolled up from it and fastened with rivets, for which a mounting valve is left.

Now let’s talk about connecting the “glass – diffuser” unit. Experienced tinsmiths have their own technological secrets, but a beginner can do the simplest thing:

When drawing the development of the “glass” along its upper contour, a number of triangular or trapezoidal valves are left, each approximately 10 mm wide and the same height.

Development of a “glass” with valves for attaching a diffuser

Such valves should not prevent the cylinder from collapsing. When assembling the unit, a cone-shaped diffuser, having the same diameter at the narrow part as that of the glass, is tightly placed on the cylinder like this. so that all valves are inside. Then all these petals are spread as far apart as possible, and rivets are placed in 3 ≈ 4 places around the circumference. For maximum joint strength, it is best to assemble using a heat-resistant sealant.

Otherwise, the general installation of the spark arrestor deflector structure should not be difficult if all the parts are calculated and drawn correctly, if training is carried out on a cardboard model.

Video: basic spark arrestor deflector device

There are other types of spark arrestor deflectors, both simpler and quite complex in design. But, probably, for beginners the examples given will be quite enough for the first time.

Making a spark arrester for a bathhouse with your own hands

IN wooden baths, it is especially important to follow the rules fire safety. Even a small spark from the furnace can cause a fire.

It is not uncommon for sparks from the firebox to fly out of the chimney pipe, especially with good draft. Therefore, a spark arrester must be installed on it.

Types of spark arresters

There are several main types of spark arrestors:

In the form of a deflector;
In the form of a metal casing made of mesh.

Hot gas with sparks passes through the chimney and encounters an obstacle in the form of a metal cap or mesh. Upon contact with them, sparks cool quickly and do not pose a danger to the tree.

Many stove makers prefer to use spark arresters like the Tsaga deflector, since they are more practical than mesh ones. If you use a large mesh, sparks can break through it, and if it is very fine, it will quickly become clogged with soot.

There are also other types of deflectors, for example, the Grigorovich deflector shown in the photo is well suited for chimneys.

Why are spark arrestors installed?

Spark arrestors are not necessary in most cases, and it is not practical to buy expensive off-the-shelf options, but they can provide you with some benefits.

According to fire safety requirements PPB-01-93, the use of spark arrestors is mandatory near flammable materials.
They are also installed in cases of easily flammable roofing (Ondulin, Tegola, scaly), when foliage accumulates on the roof, or if the house is located close to trees, in the forest.
In addition to its main purpose, its use will prevent moisture, leaves, and birds from getting inside.
By reducing resistance, you will eliminate reverse draft and increase chimney draft.

Making your own spark arrestor

You can make a spark arrestor for a bathhouse with your own hands from stainless steel or aluminum-zinc. To do this, you need to measure the diameter of the chimney for the bathhouse and make a template according to the drawing you have chosen.

Note! AISI 304 stainless steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm is best suited for this. Products made from it will last twice as long as those made from ferritic steel AISI-409(430): 10-12 years. For solid fuel boilers, chimneys cannot be made of galvanized steel.

This instruction shows an example of making a Tsaga deflector according to the drawing, only with the addition of an apron for sparks.

The structure will consist of the main chimney pipe nozzle, a protective casing (shell), an apron and a hood cover.

The central inner part can be made from ready-made stainless pipe, it will dress like a chimney cap.
The upper part of the pipe is rolled out into a cone of increased diameter. It should end approximately in the middle of the top casing.
The casing that will be placed on the pipe is cut out by hand and secured with metal plates and rivets.
It is recommended to make an apron under the casing with a distance of approximately 6 cm from the bottom of the casing, into which sparks will fall.

The apron should be wider than the casing, and fixed in the form of a funnel at an angle spot welding. Before attaching it to the pipe, a small recess is made - a lip for a tight connection. Later this connection is treated with sealant.

Note! Additionally, drain holes must be provided in the apron to remove moisture and stiffeners should be rolled.

The top of the casing is closed with a round nozzle, several cm in diameter less pipe. All fastenings are made with stainless rivets.
To calculate sizes top cover and the height of the deflector, you can use the data from the table.

To reliably rivet 2 parts, drill them through at the overlap point with a metal drill. Then insert the rivet into the hole, grab its head with the rivet gun and smoothly squeeze its handles.
For additional structural strength, rolled stiffening ribs are made.

The deflector diagram is clearly shown in the photo:

Required Tools

To assemble the chimney cap yourself, you will need:

Metal scissors;
Hammer;
Drill and drill bit for metal;
Welding machine;
Riveter and stainless steel rivets;
Sheet bending machine.

Alternative methods of protection against sparks

In addition to installing a cap, there are other ways to protect against sparks:

The first method is the simplest. The end of the chimney is welded tightly, and then many holes are drilled from the top ends. This can be done even by installing a prepared pipe on an existing one.
The next method is to weld a metal mesh to the end of the chimney. This option has a significant disadvantage: the mesh quickly becomes clogged and will need to be changed soon to maintain good traction.
If there are strong winds in your area, then install a good deflector on the head of the pipe; it will prevent the formation of reverse draft.
Another way is to reduce cravings. This is not the best option, but it can increase the temperature of the pipe and the number of sparks emitted. For this purpose, additional elbows are created on the chimney.

Another homemade solution you can see in this video lesson:

To prevent sparks from flying directly upward due to high draft, a jumper is made on the chimney pipe, which moves part of the pipe to the side. That is, an artificial bend of the pipe is created with a well for sparks in the middle (see photo below). A small hatch is made in the well for cleaning.

Conclusion

If you don’t want to spend money on buying ready-made sauna deflectors, then you can make it yourself in one evening. The price of ready-made options starts from 1 thousand rubles, depending on the diameter (see also the article “Black sauna: features, characteristics, installation of the stove”).

For more information on this topic, we recommend watching the video in this article:

Spark arrester for bath pipe

Spark arrestors are installed on pipes to prevent sparks from escaping and spreading fire on the roof and around the building. If desired, you can make such a design yourself. To do this, you just need to correctly cut the fragments of the spark arrester. Having considered various options With such designs, you can understand exactly how a spark arrester should be created.

Ways to extinguish sparks from a chimney

To prevent sparks from touching flammable materials, you can use several methods:

Advice! If it flies out of the chimney a large number of sparks, you should first try to reduce the draft and then install a spark arrester.

It is worth noting that the installation of the named structure allows you to protect the chimney from birds that begin to make nests there. Before making a spark arrestor for a bathhouse pipe with your own hands, it is worth considering in detail the process of its creation.

Features of installing spark arresters

The most common are spark arresters, which are made in the form of a deflector and have a mesh. They apply in the following cases:

Not only does a spark arrestor prevent roof fires from flying sparks, it also helps keep birds away from the chimney. Even if the risk of sparks hitting flammable materials is minimal, it is worth installing a spark arrester in order to protect yourself from fire.

When creating the described product with your own hands, it is worth remembering that not every material is suitable for such a design. If ferritic steel is used, the structure will quickly become unusable due to wear of its elements. Also, do not use galvanized sheet metal. It is best to choose stainless steel, the thickness of which is 0.5 mm, as the main material for creating a spark arrestor. This material is resistant to corrosion. At the same time, it is easy to weld.

Aluminum zinc can also be used. But it is worth noting that such material cannot be joined by simple welding. Rivets must be used to connect all structural elements. When installing a spark arrester on a chimney, you should make sure that the structure will not be broken by gusts of wind.

When choosing a material, it is necessary to correctly select the cell size of the purchased mesh. If you choose a product with too small cells, they will become clogged with soot, which will require constant cleaning of the spark arrester. If you choose a mesh that is too large, it will not stop the sparks. It is best to purchase products whose cell size is from 3 to 5 mm.

Stages of manufacturing a spark arrestor

To make a spark arrestor for brick pipe The following tools and materials are required:

stainless steel sheet, the thickness of which should be in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm;
metal mesh with high rigidity;
steel rivets necessary to connect some structural elements;
metal scissors;
Bulgarian;
welding machine.

It is worth remembering that if sparks periodically fly from the pipe, then you should not install a simple visor on it. Such devices are not able to stop flying sparks. To save money, you can not buy ready-made products, but make them yourself, because this does not require experience in performing such work.

The simplest design is made as follows:

First you need to purchase a metal mesh. It is important to choose a rigid material, since it does not deform when exposed to high temperatures.
After this, you need to prepare a piece of metal pipe.
Then a rectangle is cut out of the mesh, the length of which is equal to the diameter of the pipe.
After this, you need to wrap the pipe with mesh and secure it by welding. At this stage, it is important to securely fasten the mesh so that it can withstand strong winds.
At the next stage, the cone is secured over the mesh. Consolidation occurs on metal brackets so that there is a small distance between the mesh and the cone.
At the final stage, the finished spark arrester is fixed to the pipe using metal brackets.

Creating a spark arrester similar to a deflector

It is worth noting that designs created like a deflector are more effective than products with a mesh. Spark arrestors are often created for a brick pipe similar to the Tsaga deflector, to which an apron is added to catch sparks. Creation occurs as follows:

By creating even a simple spark arrester, you can make your bathhouse safer.

Any stove, boiler or fireplace always poses a danger to buildings - especially to wooden baths(It’s not for nothing that they burn more often, isn’t it?). Therefore, compliance with fire safety rules in steam rooms is sacred. And when combustion products are thrown into a chimney, they are often accompanied by sheaves of sparks, from which it is as easy as shelling pears to set the roof or nearby structures on fire. That is why it is mandatory to install a spark arrester on the chimney - a special design, which is a nozzle with a metal mesh and an umbrella on top. A spark arrestor is similar in function to a deflector, but is much cheaper. And it’s much easier to do it yourself, and we’ll tell you how now.

Modern types of spark arresters

There are many designs of modern spark arrestors. But the most common are their two types:

In the form of a roof along which there is a grid.
With metal mesh walls and a deflector.

The main components of the spark arrestor are: a mesh, a covering roof and a spark arresting cover.

But how does a spark arrester work? Quite simply: flue gases pass through the pipe channel, encounter an obstacle in the form of a lid, change direction and exit through a metal mesh. It is about this that possible sparks are extinguished. In any case, a spark arrester is simply necessary for straight chimneys with high temperatures and fairly strong draft - and these are always chimneys of baths and saunas.

How else can you extinguish sparks from a chimney?

In principle, there are several ways to beat off sparks today:

Method 1. Side holes are cut out on the head of the pipe, and the end is welded. You can do it this way if you already have a chimney installed: take a piece of pipe required diameter, drill holes in it, weld the end and insert it into the pipe of the existing chimney from above.
Method 2. Weld a metal mesh into the head of the pipe. But, unfortunately, over time it becomes clogged and has to be replaced.
Method 3. Place a good deflector on the head. But it is really only necessary when the winds in your area are strong enough, and there is a risk of back draft in the bathhouse. If your situation is mostly calm and the area is calm, there are no large branchy trees nearby - then you can limit yourself to one spark arrestor.
Method 4. Create a smoke circulation on the pipe. The easiest way is to make an elbow on the chimney; this will significantly reduce the draft and much less sparks will fly out of the chimney. And the smoke itself will pass through the pipe a little slower, and this is additional heat for the bath. Just don’t overdo it - the traction should be sufficient so that the person in the bathhouse does not get burned. Therefore, if your roof is made of flammable material, or the chimney is straight, or you heat with wood, or all of this together, be sure to install a spark arrestor!

Advice: if sparks fly very generously from your chimney, pay attention - maybe it has too much draft?

There is another compelling reason to install a spark arrester - it prevents birds from getting into the smoke channel and making their nests there. Try to heat a stove after a long break where the chicks have already hatched - the smell in the bathhouse will be terrible, and sticky resin will settle on the walls of the pipes for a long time.

How to make a good spark arrestor yourself?

The main thing here is to be patient and make all the dimensions accurately. The main requirement for a spark arrester is that its cell sizes be no larger than 5 mm. But they should not be too small so that gas can penetrate freely between the cells. The only drawback is that the spark arrestor mesh can become heavily clogged with soot. This happens when you burn wood with a high tar content and the flue gases are not burned (i.e. special device you don't have it for that). This mesh needs to be cleaned, and cleaned regularly, to avoid the unpleasant backdraft effect.

So, the order of work:

Step 1. Measure the size of the chimney opening. We make a sketch of the future parts of the spark arrester.
Step 2. Cut out the necessary parts from metal, attaching mock-ups from cardboard. We maintain precision millimeter to millimeter.
Step 3. We use 1-6 mm metal rods or a piece of finished mesh as a mesh.
Step 4. We connect all the joints by welding. We clean them with a grinder.
Step 5. We fix all the parts with steel rivets.
Step 6. We install the finished spark arrester on the chimney with our own hands, and then secure it well.

For its manufacture, take steel 1 mm thick, and if you use rods, the thinner they are, the better.

Tip: if it is difficult to bend the metal mesh, tap it with a hammer - this will remove the stress from the metal and make it more susceptible to deformation.

If you wish, you can also attach a deflector to the spark arrester. So, we cut out a visor from a sheet of metal and bend it, securing all the bends with rivets. The result is a cone with a diameter slightly larger than that of the main pipe. This is the visor we need, which we will attach to the base of the spark arrestor using steel rivets.

According to SNiP, a spark arrestor mesh must be installed if the roof of the house is made of flammable material or the stove is heated with coal. But even if your roofing material made of non-flammable material, this does not mean that the sparks flying out of the pipe are safe. They can easily ignite dry leaves or poplar fluff, just like wooden gazebo near. But installing a spark arrester takes just five minutes, but peace of mind and safety will definitely be worth it.

How to make a spark arrester for a bathhouse pipe - possible design options

Classification of spark arresters and their application

Before making a spark arrester for a bathhouse, you need to study the theory, and only after that move on to the practical part of the issue.

There are several main types of spark arresters:

Metal mesh casing;
Deflector;
Other designs.

Such devices are installed in the following cases:

If the roof of the bathhouse is made of materials classified as flammable, a spark arrester must be installed on the chimney;
The spark arrester is installed on the pipe coming out of the boiler, since due to the absence of elbows, sparks can come out directly through the chimney (read: “Which pipes to choose for a chimney in a bathhouse - examples of options”);
It is mandatory to install a spark arrester on the bath pipe if the stove runs on solid fuel.

The best option for making a spark arrestor is stainless steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It can last quite a long time, resists corrosion well and is easy to cook. Aluminum zinc, which also has good characteristics, is a good choice. True, in this case the material will have to be secured using rivets.

Having selected the material, it is worth thinking about the size of the cells. If they are large, then sparks from the bathhouse pipe will easily pass through them, and small cells will become clogged very quickly and will have to be cleaned. As practice shows, the average cell size can vary from 1 to 5 mm.

Making a deflector

The simplest and most convenient design is created using the following algorithm:

First, all elements of the spark arrester must be cut out on cardboard, having previously measured the diameter of the chimney pipe.
The internal part of the spark arrester can be made from a piece of pipe - by choosing the right diameter, you can simply put the structure on the chimney. If there is no suitable pipe, you will have to make the necessary structure yourself from stainless steel sheets.
The top of the sleeve should have a slightly larger diameter. When making a sleeve from a pipe, one part of it will have to be rolled out. The length of the sleeve should reach the middle of the outer casing.
To create the main casing, a pipe or stainless steel sheet is used. The casing is placed over the sleeve and secured with rivets.
An apron is attached under the casing at a distance of 6 cm - a part of the spark arrester, visually similar to a curved saucer. Sparks will fall on the apron, so its dimensions must be larger than the dimensions of the casing. The same stainless steel is used to make the apron. A hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it, after which the apron is put on the sleeve and fixed by welding.
A cover is mounted on top of the casing, which is slightly smaller in diameter than the main pipe.
Rivets are used to connect individual parts (of course, before fixing, the necessary holes are drilled in the parts of the spark arrester).

The assembled spark arrester for the chimney for the bath is installed in its place and fixed. The structure is ready, and now the bathhouse can be used without any problems.

Manufacturing a mesh spark arrestor

The assembly algorithm looks like this:

The first step is to cut out the necessary elements from thick cardboard.
When arranging the mesh, the sleeve is not equipped with an external casing - the structure is put on top of the bath pipe. The sleeve is made in the same way as in the previous case - from a stainless steel sheet or a piece of pipe of the appropriate size.
Two rods with a cross-section of about 5 mm 2 are welded to the mesh. A ring is bent from the mesh, which can be securely located in the internal cavity of the sleeve. When bending the mesh, you need to tap it with a hammer to reduce the stress on the metal.
The ring at the junction is welded, installed in the sleeve and fixed in any way.
A visor is attached to the protruding parts of the rods.

A spark arrester created in this way will provide adequate protection of the bathhouse from fire.

Other spark arrester circuits

Sometimes, instead of the traditional deflector and mesh, bathhouse owners use other devices that prevent sparks from flying out of the chimney.

The most commonly used methods of protection against sparks are:

A piece of pipe is placed on the upper edge of the chimney, the end of which is tightly welded. Several holes are cut into the side of the pipe through which the smoke will pass.
There is a fairly simple design for which the mesh is welded into the inside of the chimney. The problem with this scheme is that the contaminated mesh will have to be completely cut out.
If there are constant winds in the area, the chimney can be closed with a good deflector, but if there is no wind, then it will not be possible to use the bathhouse - there will be no draft.
For protection, you can also install a chimney with several elbows. Sparks will be extinguished by bending. In addition, this design will slightly increase the amount of heat released into the bathhouse.

Conclusion

This article examined the most common spark arresters for baths. You can even assemble these devices with your own hands - it is not particularly difficult, and all existing circuits are quite simple.

Making a spark arrestor for a bathhouse with your own hands

Sauna stove design

Stoves, fireplaces and boilers are a potential hazard for the buildings in which they are installed and those located nearby. And if we are talking about a wooden building, the fire hazard of the stove structure increases. This is largely due to the fact that combustion products are released into the chimney. The process is accompanied by many sparks, the contact of which on the roof of buildings causes a fire. To avoid this, install a spark arrester on the chimney. The design is a nozzle equipped with a steel mesh and an umbrella. The product resembles a deflector, but has a much more affordable price. In addition, making a spark arrestor yourself is very simple.

The design, which will be responsible for catching sparks, has several options, but the most common are 2 types. The first is made in the form of a roof, and the second has walls made of steel mesh and a deflector.

Advice from the master!

When making a spark arrester, you should take into account the presence of the main elements: mesh; cover responsible for spark extinguishing; covering roof. It must be remembered that the mesh of the product must effectively extinguish sparks entering the pipe.

Alternative spark arrestor options

You can create other types of spark arresters for baths or saunas. For example, you should make side holes on the head of the pipe by welding the end. You can do it differently if the chimney is already installed. This will require cutting a pipe of a certain diameter. You need to drill holes in it, weld the end, and then insert the workpiece from above into the chimney pipe.

How does a spark absorber work?

The spark arrestor can be constructed using another method. To do this, you need to weld into the pipe head steel mesh. However, this option is not so durable; the mesh will become clogged over time, which will lead to the need to replace it.

Another option for a spark arrestor for a chimney involves installing a high-quality deflector on the head. But its presence is required when strong winds, if calm prevails in the area, such a solution may cause reverse draft to occur in the building where the stove is installed.

You can arrange a smoke circulation on the pipe. This option is the simplest. To do this, install an elbow on the chimney, which will reduce draft and make the outflow of sparks insignificant. Smoke will flow through the chimney more slowly, which will provide additional heat in the room. However, when implementing this method you need to be careful, cravings should not be reduced to zero, otherwise a person may get burned in the bathhouse.

Advice from the master!

A spark arrester should be installed not only to protect the roof, but also to prevent birds from making nests in the chimney. Otherwise, when the stove is fired, there will be bad smell, and a sticky resin forms on the walls of the pipes, which will remain there for a long time.

Tools and materials:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
net;
cardboard;
pencil;
ruler;
steel sheets.

Part manufacturing technology

You can make a spark arrester for a chimney for a bathhouse with your own hands only with patience, since you have to make accurate measurements and calculations. The main requirement for such a design is that the size of the mesh cells should not exceed 5 mm. However, they should not be too small, as this will not allow gas to pass freely between the cells. The spark arrestor mesh for the chimney has its drawback - it is susceptible to clogging with soot. This happens when the stove is heated with wood containing a significant amount of resin. In this case, the flue gases are not completely burned. The mesh must be manually cleaned regularly, otherwise a backdraft effect will occur.

Complete structure

You can make a spark catcher for a bathhouse with your own hands in several stages. The first involves taking measurements of the chimney opening. Next, you should prepare a drawing of future structural elements. Then the necessary parts are cut out of steel using mock-ups made of cardboard. It is important to maintain accuracy.

The mesh can be metal rods with a diameter of 1-6 mm; a ready-made mesh will do the job perfectly.

Next comes the turn of welding, which will fix the joints. The resulting seams can be processed with a grinder. Elements must be strengthened and metal rivets. The finished spark arrester should be mounted on the chimney, securely fastened. The main material will be steel, the thickness of which is 1 mm. When using rods, it is better to choose those that are the thinnest.

When forming the mesh, you should bend it. If this is quite difficult, you can tap it with a hammer, which will relieve the stress from the metal and make it more pliable. If desired, you can also attach a deflector to the spark arrester for the chimney. To do this, use a sheet of metal to form a visor from it. Having bent the visor, you need to strengthen the folds with rivets. This will allow you to obtain a cone whose diameter will be slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney. This design will act as a visor attached to the base of the spark arrester using metal rivets.

If you want to install a spark arrestor made of rods, they must be placed parallel to each other. It is necessary to lay a mesh on top of them, leaving part of the rod uncovered, which will be necessary for fixing to the chimney. Next, you can begin attaching the mesh and the joint of the rod by welding. A plate made of mesh will be used to cover the pipe. The edge of the mesh must be pressed against the pipe with clamps. In order for the mesh to become round, it should be tapped with a hammer. Once the mesh has been bent, you can weld its edges.

Advice from the master!

A sheet of metal will be used to make the visor. It needs to be welded to the ends of the rods.

According to SNiP rules, a spark arrester must be installed on the chimney if the roof is made of flammable material. This pipe element is also needed when burning a stove with coal. But even if the roofing material is not flammable, sparks flying from the chimney still pose a danger. And all because they can interact with dry leaves or poplar fluff. A spark can also hit wooden structural elements that are located nearby. In addition, installing a spark arrestor takes 5 minutes, but this way you guarantee your safety and peace of mind.

In addition to its advantages, individual heating has a significant drawback - the risk of fire. The risk of fire increases significantly when the combustion process reaches high temperatures and fiery sparks fly out of the chimney with great force.

A spark arrester on the chimney will help to cope with this problem - the device prevents the spread of dangerous sparks. The device has a simple design, so it is quite possible to make and install it yourself.

We will tell you how the spark arrester works, describe the features of different models, and give step-by-step instructions for the manufacture and fastening of the element. The information presented will help you do all the work yourself, saving money on your purchase. finished product and call a specialist.

A spark extinguisher placed on the chimney will be a real godsend, especially if the house or bathhouse is located next to a forest. After all, hot sparks in windy weather can easily cover a 300-meter distance to a nearby pine tree.

And this is a direct threat of fire, from which you should insure yourself and your property by installing a protective device on the chimney.

Why do you need a spark arrester?

A device for extinguishing sparks is necessary if materials were used for the roof that can easily catch fire if a spark hits them. Of course, such a decorative coating is not the best choice. But in practice, safety is often neglected in order to implement an original design idea.

A spark arrester is needed if the site local area there is a building of a bathhouse, sauna or other structure where it is planned to be heated to a high temperature. The wood from which the walls of the bathhouse are made can easily catch fire from an accidental spark.

It’s good when a heat-resistant material is chosen for the roof, which can withstand repeated collisions with fiery sparks

And of course, when the house is equipped private system heating and hot water supply. Here the boiler will be heated to a high temperature to meet the heat and hot water. You can't do without installing a spark absorber here.

When the boiler heats up, intense heat is generated, and sparks easily fly out into the street through a straight chimney, forming a breathtakingly terrible spectacle

The structure and principle of operation of the spark arrester

The device for extinguishing sparks has a simple structure and a clear operating principle. Depending on the model of the spark arrestor, its structure and appearance will differ.

But, in all options, the common feature will be the presence of a metal element made of mesh or a solid sheet. Also, there is a base on which all other parts are attached and a cover that prevents the free flight of sparks.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

As a spark arrestor, you can use a deflector, in which an additional protective plate is installed - a skirt with raised edges that encircles the device. About this model in the video:

About the features of the spark arrester and its structure in the video clip:

A spark suppressor for a chimney is a vital device that can protect property and people’s lives. And the price is not bad - especially since you can make a spark arrester with your own hands using scrap materials.

This precaution will help protect your home from accidental fire. After all, the sparks flying out of the chimney will go out as they travel through this metal device.

A conscientious owner building a bathhouse on his site will have to think about not only the comfort and amenities of the future building. The problems of ensuring comprehensive safety of operation of such a building are of great importance. And one of the key issues in this area is a well-thought-out fire safety system.

One of the main elements of a real bathhouse is a stove, which, as a rule, runs on solid fuel. It is necessary to ensure the correct installation of both the stove itself and the chimney system, so as to prevent the possibility of poisoning by combustion products, to exclude the possibility of fire in the walls and ceilings and roof. And one more point - the chimney itself should not become a potential source of danger outside the bathhouse. This can be ensured by making and installing a spark arrester on the bathhouse pipe with your own hands.

The very design of many sauna stoves provides the function preliminary spark extinguishing.

Air (wide blue arrow) enters the stove through the ash door (pos. 1), penetrates through the grate (pos. 2) into the combustion chamber (pos. 3), ensuring fuel combustion and heating of the heater (pos. 4). Next, hot combustion products (wide red arrows) do not immediately enter the chimney pipe (pos. 6), but pass through a kind of “labyrinth” created by special jumpers (pos. 5). Here there is an active transfer of heat, and in addition, due to a sharp change in the direction of movement, unburned particles (thin red arrows) under the influence of centrifugal forces, they escape from the general flow of gases, hit the walls of the chambers, and a significant part of them is extinguished here.

So, as described above – sudden changes in the direction of the flow of combustion products.
Creation of artificial barriers (mesh, grate, etc.) that will not prevent smoke from escaping, but will ensure a high probability of contact of unburned particles with metal parts of the structure that have high thermal conductivity.

Many spark arrestor designs use these two principles in conjunction with one another.

One more important point can be made. Regardless of the presence of a spark arrestor on the head of the pipe, it itself must be correctly located on the roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard, which are shown schematically in the figure:

Prices for ready-made spark arresters

spark arrester

The simplest models of spark arrestors

The simplest A spark arrestor is a plugged section of pipe, on the side walls of which round or slot-like holes are drilled or cut. Schematically it looks like this:

In a word, this is a design “for the lazy.”

Another simplest option is to simply pick up the chimney outlet with a mesh (grid). This can be done by using a ready-made metal mesh, securing it around the pipe with a clamp, or by making a rim for it with brackets for fastening. By the way, even such primitive options are found on sale, but there are probably no problems making such a simple design yourself.

The mesh at the end of the chimney pipe is simple, but not effective enough

There are also a lot of disadvantages to this scheme. You can’t install too much netting – it will overgrow very quickly. And the rarer one has a very small total “working” area, almost coinciding with the cross-sectional area of the pipe. On the upper straight section of the chimney, hot gases gain decent speed, and there is no guarantee that hot solid fragments will not slip through the grate bars when moving in a straight line. That is, the efficiency of spark extinguishing still remains not at its best.

The mesh cells can be reduced, but this will require increasing its total area so that the smoke escapes without reducing draft. This is achieved by installing a higher mesh “dome” above the pipe head - another simplest version of a spark arrestor. Sometimes a welded lattice structure, cylindrical or spherical in shape, is used, which is mounted on the chimney.

By the way, this is one of the most common models produced by both industrial enterprises and private craftsmen. It is quite possible to make such a spark arrester yourself.

Making a simple spark arrester yourself

First, let's look at the general basic drawing of a simple spark arrester:

2 – metal mesh, with cells no less than 1 and no more than 5 mm. Sometimes a welded lattice structure made of steel rod with a diameter of up to 5 mm is used instead.

3 – rainproof cone-shaped cap – “fungus”.

4 – racks that connect all the parts into a single structure.

5 – rivet connections.

The dimensions of such a spark arrester have a certain pattern, depending on the diameter of the chimney (the lower pipe of the device). For ease of work, the average values are given in the table:

Options	Values, mm
D	80	100	110	120	130	140	150	160	180	200	230	250
D1	160	200	220	250	250	280	300	300	360	400	400	450
H1, min	50	50	50	50	50	50	50	50	50	50	50	50
H2	150	150	150	150	150	150	150	150	200	200	200	200
H3	50	50	50	50	50	50	70	70	70	70	70	70

In addition, it is best to purchase a ready-made mesh - galvanized or stainless, with a cell of about 3 ÷ 5 mm. It is convenient to use a riveter for connections, but only steel rivets should be used - aluminum will not be entirely reliable under these conditions.

Prices for stainless steel mesh

stainless steel mesh

To cut metal you will need special scissors; in straight sections you can also use a grinder. You also cannot do without an electric drill - for drilling holes for rivets.

For the manufacture of blanks (bending metal along lines) you need a workbench with a metal corner or just a piece of profile (channel, corner, etc.) with smooth edges. The production of some round parts will be easier if there are unique templates from pipes of different diameters.

To begin with, parts developments are made.

A. With the lower “glass” everything is quite simple. To roll a cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle whose length is equal to the circumference of the base.

Development of a cylinder – “glass”

From the geometry course it is known that the circumference (L) is equal to:

L = π × D, Where π ≈ 3,14, A D– required cylinder diameter.

In this case, a mounting valve with a width of M, equal to 15 ÷ 20 mm - a rivet connection will be made in this place

Such a strip is carefully bent, for example, using a pipe, the edges are aligned, holes are drilled and secured with rivets. For a height of 50 ÷ 100 mm, two pieces will be enough.

It is clear that the length of the lateral component of the cone ( WITH ) will be equal to the radius of the workpiece. From the known quantities we have the required height of the part being manufactured ( h) and its diameter ( D). Based on this, it is possible to determine and WITH - according to the familiar Pythagorean theorem. WITH is the hypotenuse of a right triangle with legsh And D/2

С = √ (h² + (D/2) ² )

Thus, the required radius of the workpiece is obtained.

Now we determine the angle of the cut sector.

It is clear that the circumference of the base of the cone will be equal to the length of the circular arc of the workpiece, which will remain after cutting out the sector.

The circumference of the base of the cone is determined by the formula:

Lк = π × D

Now let’s determine the circumference of the whole workpiece, up to the cutout:

Lз = π × 2С

It's easy to calculate the difference:

Δ L = Lз – Lк

Now it remains to solve a simple relationship:

360° →Lз

α → ΔL

According to the rule of proportion:

α = ΔL × 360/ Lз

This is how the angle of the cut sector is obtained.

For example, we calculate the development of a cone with a diameter of 240 mm and a height of 70 mm

The side (and radius of the workpiece) is:

WITH = √ (70² + 120²) = 139 mm

Cone circumference:

Lк = 3.14 × 240 = 754 mm

Circumference length of the whole circle of the workpiece:

Lз = 3.14 × 2 × 139 = 872 mm

We get the difference:

Δ L = 872 – 754 = 118 mm

Now you can immediately determine the angle of the cut sector.

α = 118 × 360/ 872 = 48.7 ≈ 49°

The finished cut out reamer is carefully rolled into a cone (to do this, you can lightly “roll” it on a horizontally fixed metal pin or small diameter pipe). Then the cone can be clamped with a clamp, mounting holes can be drilled and rivets installed, finally fixing the part.

G. Another component of the overall design is the racks, which connect all the parts into a single assembly.

There can be three racks - then they are placed at an equal angular distance of 120°, or four - with placement at 90° intervals.

The numbering of positions is the same as in the diagram in direct projection.

So, as already mentioned, to begin with it is better to draw out and make the entire structure from thick cardboard. This will help you finally figure out how to pair the parts with the required length of the posts. After a successful experiment, the cardboard scans will become a ready-made template for marking a metal sheet.

When all the parts are ready, you can proceed to final assembly.

First of all, the stand is attached strictly vertically to the branch pipe - the “glass” with one or two rivets.
The mesh cylinder is inserted into the space between the posts, so that it slightly fits into the lower “glass” and rests on the rivet heads. The height of the mesh should be such that it rests on top of the umbrella cone during final assembly.
If the racks are located vertically, then for greater strength you can rivet the mesh to them - one rivet per rack.
Next, the “fungus” is set. The mounting pads of the racks are precisely bent so that they fit snugly against the inner surface of the cone. Through holes are drilled through the umbrella and posts, and the entire structure is finally fixed with rivets.

In fact, the assembly of the spark arrester is complete - you can safely install it on the bath pipe and no longer be afraid of the possibility of sparks flying out.

Video: the work of a tinsmith making some spark arrester parts

Manufacturing a spark arrestor deflector

Devices that combine the functions of a spark arrester and deflector perform well. This structural element is especially important for baths located in open, windy areas. Not only that, the wind can carry sparks over a long distance. As the speed increases, the effect of “reverse draft” is not excluded, when instead of going outside, the smoke begins to penetrate back into the room, poisoning the bathhouse atmosphere and becoming a threat to the health of the people there. Using a spark arrestor deflector solves both problems at once.

Schematically - the operation of the deflector-spark arrestor

The wind does not directly affect the cut of the chimney pipe in any way - the special design of the deflector forces the air flow (shown by blue arrows) to go around the head from above, below and on the sides. In this case, the movement of air is accompanied by the phenomenon of injection - some vacuum inside the deflector, which only increases traction and will never allow the opposite effect.

At the same time, the flow of hot gases with unburned particles contained in it (shown by yellow arrows) makes two sharp turns of almost 180 degrees. In this case, all sparks are guaranteed to come into contact with the metal surfaces of the structure, which leads to their extinction.

There are many different models of deflectors - spark arrestors. For self-production, you can take very common and the TsAGI deflector, proven by many years of practice. The name comes from the abbreviation of the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute named after. Zhukovsky, whose specialists once developed this device.

In general terms, a spark arrestor deflector of such a design can be schematically depicted using the following diagram:

1 – pipe – “glass”, with which the deflector is placed on the chimney pipe. All other dimensions of the device parts depend on the diameter of this part - D.

2 – Diffuser pipe, which is a truncated cone expanding upward. Its diameter D1 in the wide part should be equal 1.25×D. Height, H2 + H1 =D

5 – cone-shaped umbrella, approximately the same as that of the previously considered spark arrester model. Cone base diameter – D2 = 1.7 ×D. Cone height, H4 = 0.3 ×D

6 – cylindrical outer casing. Its diameter D3 = 2 ×D. Overall height – H2 + H3 + H3 = 1.2 ×D

3 – An apron can be located under the casing - a tray that prevents sparks from hitting the roof and additionally serves as a partition to change the direction of gas flow. This apron has a diameter equal to the diameter of the casing, or 5 ÷ 7 mm larger. The shape is slightly curved with the outer contour upward, like a saucer. For strength, radial stiffeners are often rolled onto the apron. To prevent moisture from collecting in it, you can drill a drainage hole.

What else is important? The outer cylindrical casing must be positioned at a height H1, with the lower edge exactly in the middle of the diffuser. The upper edge of the cone-fungus coincides in level with the upper edge of the casing.

In principle, the assembly should be fairly clear from the diagram and from the example of a spark arrester with mesh discussed earlier. The main differences are more parts, a more complex bracket configuration, and no mesh. And the main difficulties are the manufacture of a truncated cone - a diffuser and its connection to a cylindrical glass.

To make a reamer of a truncated cone, you will again have to

Classification of spark arresters and their application

Making a deflector

Manufacturing a mesh spark arrestor

Other spark arrester circuits

general information

Built-in spark removal systems

Installation subtleties

The simplest models of spark arresters

First stage

Step by step instructions

Node installation

Why do you need a spark arrester? The principle of its operation.

The simplest models of spark arrestors

Making a simple spark arrester yourself

Video: the work of a tinsmith making some spark arrester parts

Manufacturing a spark arrestor deflector

Video: basic spark arrestor deflector device

Making a spark arrester for a bathhouse with your own hands

Types of spark arresters

Why are spark arrestors installed?

Making your own spark arrestor

Required Tools

Alternative methods of protection against sparks

Conclusion

Spark arrester for bath pipe

Ways to extinguish sparks from a chimney

Features of installing spark arresters

Stages of manufacturing a spark arrestor

Creating a spark arrester similar to a deflector

Modern types of spark arresters

How else can you extinguish sparks from a chimney?

How to make a good spark arrestor yourself?

How to make a spark arrester for a bathhouse pipe - possible design options

Classification of spark arresters and their application

Making a deflector

Manufacturing a mesh spark arrestor

Other spark arrester circuits

Making a spark arrestor for a bathhouse with your own hands

Alternative spark arrestor options

Part manufacturing technology

Why do you need a spark arrester?

The structure and principle of operation of the spark arrester

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Prices for ready-made spark arresters

The simplest models of spark arrestors

Making a simple spark arrester yourself

Prices for stainless steel mesh

Video: the work of a tinsmith making some spark arrester parts

Manufacturing a spark arrestor deflector

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