To privately wooden house to obtain, it is necessary to make a multilayer structure. This will ensure a cozy microclimate in the room and save money on heating.

But, in order to properly equip your own hands with an even and high-quality final coating, you must first make a subfloor. The structure and complexity will be dictated by the type heating elements, which are planned to be installed in the house.

A subfloor is needed, first of all, to level the surface on which the final coating will be laid. That is why during installation it is necessary to maintain the horizontal position of the laid logs and beams, because they will be the base.

Also, a subfloor is necessary to create high-quality thermal insulation in a wooden house. Its thermal insulation layer is different thicknesses, which depends on the specific insulation used, and it is mounted on waterproofing.

Each element consisting of wood in such a floor must be impregnated with a special moisture-resistant mixture to prevent them from rotting in the future.

In the first few years after laying, log houses can shrink significantly, in some cases up to 17 cm within 3 years. To prevent this from causing deformation of the finishing coating, a system of fastening subfloor elements directly to the walls of the room is used.

In such structures they are rarely used concrete screed, for creating flat surface. The entire load during the use of the house falls on the subfloor, which is why for installation it is advisable to choose dried logs and timber with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

In order to correctly distribute the load on the base, it is necessary to correctly select the step for installing the logs and the thickness of the boards.

During the construction of a home, the subfloor will determine what type of subfloor should be used.

Typically installation occurs on:

• special floors (either beams or reinforced concrete slabs);
• directly to the ground.

To create a high-quality subfloor in any wooden house, the following materials are used:

1. Brick pillars, the size of which is 40x40 cm and at least 20 cm in height. They will be installed on cement mortar. To determine the required number, you need to make a calculation based on parameters such as the size of the logs, as well as the total area of ​​the room.
2. Waterproofing. It can be as usual polyethylene film increased density, as well as other materials with such properties. Such material is necessary to prevent rotting wooden elements.
3. Lags. They will be attached to the installed brick pillars. The distance between them is determined by the size of the boards, and their length will be equal to the corresponding characteristics of the room.
4. Fastening elements such as corners and bolts.
5. Material to be used for the overlay rough coating. It can be like boards or plywood.
6. Elements that will be used as insulation and waterproofing materials.

To choose the right material, you need to give preference to those types that meet stringent requirements. When choosing, you should take into account: the presence of good thermal conductivity, strength, as well as fire safety of the material, complexity of installation and weight.

Among the insulation materials, the following have optimal qualities: expanded polystyrene, glass wool, and also basalt wool.

• The first option is very expensive pleasure. Typically, its use is advisable in cases where the insulation needs to be placed in a layer of minimal thickness.
• Basalt wool is average in terms of price/quality ratio. It is quite dense, non-flammable and has good moisture-resistant properties.
• Glass wool is very sensitive to dampness, so good waterproofing is necessary for its installation.
• Isoplast, polyethylene, as well as PVC membranes and ordinary roofing felt are used as waterproofing. These products have good basic properties to protect the insulation from possible penetration of moisture.

Installation of the subfloor is step by step process laying different layers:

1. First you need to nail the skull blocks to the joists in the lower side part. For this purpose, boards are suitable whose width is 8 cm greater than that of the joists. ;
2. The boards are laid on top of the bars and are not fixed. They will act as the basis for the next layer of thermal insulation;
3. Various film options act as waterproofing. During installation, it is worth remembering that this material should go slightly onto the walls, where it will be fixed with a stapler;
4. After waterproofing, insulation is laid between the beams. If the height allows, it can be laid in several layers, and on top of it is a vapor barrier, which should also extend onto the walls. Fixation can be done using a stapler and tape. If the logs are the same height as the insulation, counter battens are used to create ventilation. They need to be nailed along the joists and you will get the required clearance;
5. The last layer is a covering of boards or chipboard sheets. During installation, a gap of 2 cm must be left between them and the wall. It must be sealed with thermal insulation, after which the subfloor will be ready.

The durability of the finished floor covering also depends on the quality of the base preparation. It is for this reason that laying the subfloor plays such a significant role. The material used during installation must ensure the evenness of the finished structure and be resistant to compression. Modern technologies offer several options for arranging subfloors using different materials.

Types of subfloors

The subfloor in cross-section resembles a layer cake:

• Base. It is he who bears the entire burden.
• Layers of hydro, heat and sound insulation.
• Screed.
• Rough coating.

Not every owner can build something like this, however, you can make a subfloor with your own hands in different ways. Fortunately, there are several options for its arrangement.

Wet floors

The most popular methodology. Its implementation does not require special skills or high costs. The screed is carried out using gypsum or cement-sand mortar. Most relevant in houses with slab floors. The screed is poured onto the layers of thermal insulation. The top of such a floor must be leveled and dried, and only then covered with the final finishing layer.

There are three main types of wet screed floors:

• Single layer. Used to eliminate defects in slabs, usually with differences of up to 1.5 cm.
• Double-layer and multi-layer. They are used when it is necessary to level out significant dissonance in heights (up to 12 cm). It’s simply not possible to eliminate them in one layer.

Pouring the base – great way form perfect surface for laying carpet, laminate or linoleum.

The positive qualities of a wet screed include: moisture resistance, fire resistance, strength and relatively small thickness. The cost of the material is affordable: $1-3 per kilogram of the mixture.

Dry floor

To minimize the installation time of the subfloor, use a dry screed. Solutions practically do not participate in the process of its formation. For this reason, the screed does not require long drying. The creation of the “pie” involves insulating material, sheathing and wood flooring. During installation, ventilation gaps are created.

Important! Screed under ceramic tiles must be treated with a primer. Failure to do so may result in the coating peeling off.

Prefabricated floor

We are talking about a dry screed. It is mounted on top of slabs or flooring with boards. A prefabricated floor is a structure made of rolled, sheet materials and dry backfill. The “pie” usually consists of a screed, thermal insulation materials, lag and dry mixes. A subfloor is installed on top.

Prefabricated floors are different high level soundproofing and serve as a base for most finished floors. They are almost 2 times lighter wet screeds, but they have a decent thickness, so they are not suitable for thin roll coatings.

Floors on joists

This type subfloors are most often found in older homes. The logs level and greatly facilitate the installation of a wooden floor, and also prevent the weakening of the load-bearing beams.

Arranging floors on joists seems quite simple, but it cannot be done without proper preparation. It is impossible to work with them without knowing all the subtleties.

It is not permissible to level the joists using wooden wedges and wood chips. Such a structure is not viable and after some time the floor begins to creak and sag. To level, sand is poured under the joists or the material is trimmed.

Antiseptic treatment and ventilation increase the service life of the frame. It is covered with slabs or sheet material on top, and to reduce the reduced noise index, polyethylene foam or fiberboard can be laid under the logs.

Adjustable floors

These floors are supported on the floor slab through threaded posts. They help raise the finishing coating to a height of up to 7 cm (if we are talking about plywood) or up to 22 (using logs). To create a subfloor, beams, cranial beams and boards are used. coniferous species wood, as a rule, with a reduced grade.

Subfloor materials

To correctly answer the question: how to make a subfloor, you need to decide what materials are needed for its arrangement.

The base is assembled from the following components:

• Bricks. They are used to create pillars that are placed on cement mortar.
• Metal corners and bolts. Attached to brick pillars lags.
• Waterproofing. Choose a material that can prevent rotting.
• Insulation. Place on the bottom layer rough foundation.
• Boards or slabs. Used for flooring.

Of course, these are not all the necessary elements. Their variations are due to the variety of types of rough coating and the wishes of the owner. The quantity is calculated based on the size of the building premises.

The lifespan of a floor directly depends on proper preparation And positive qualities materials included in its composition, including coatings.

Gypsum fiber boards

GVL and GVLV create a perfectly even base for finishing coating. Usually they are laid in two layers, fixed with glue. These plates are usually used for leveling expanded clay backfill or to create a heat and sound insulation coating. They are also suitable for old flooring subfloor. The only thing that should not be done is to combine GVL (GVLV) with lags. In this combination, the material cannot withstand local loads: even furniture legs can break the floor.

The base is suitable for almost any finishing surface: laminate, carpet, tiles, linoleum, cork or parquet. To protect the subfloor from the influence of possible leaks, you need to treat the slabs with a water-repellent compound.

Moisture-resistant chipboard

The material can withstand heavy loads (we are talking about the idea of ​​chipboard high density) and allows you to form a fairly even base. Due to its increased strength, it can be laid both on backfill and on logs.

Chipboard has good thermal and sound insulation properties. Typically, slabs, like drywall, are fixed with glue. They are laid in two layers, not forgetting about treatment with a water-repellent compound.

Important! Chipboard is better Only use in dry rooms and cover with carpet, parquet or linoleum. For additional sound insulation, the slabs are covered with technical cork.

Cement particle board

The material has excellent characteristics:

• High strength;
• Environmentally friendly;
• Water resistant.

DSP does not burn and is not afraid of even serious leaks. The market offers slabs with a thickness of 1-3.2 cm. They are laid on the backfill or on frame joists, laid in two layers (the top one is treated with a waterproofing or water-repellent compound).

DSP is excellent for laying parquet and laminate flooring. The only drawback of the slabs is minor deviations in thickness at the joints (up to 2 mm). In this case, it is unacceptable to cover the surface with cork or linoleum without preliminary preparation grounds. Defects are eliminated by sanding and putty.

Moisture-resistant plywood

Multilayer plywood has many variations in thickness (from 0.3 to 3 cm) and cost ($2.7-39). Due to its high strength, it is often laid on frame joists, but it is also often laid directly on a concrete base under parquet or laminate.

Construction technologies are constantly changing. Modern methods often more effective, but not always cheap. In particular, one of the most affordable flooring technologies is a subfloor with joists. Yes, it's not perfect, but so far it's the most cheap way make the floor In any case, in those regions where the price of timber is still low.

In floor construction, subflooring can serve two functions. The first is to serve as the basis for laying heat, hydro, and sound insulation materials. The second function is to serve as a support for the finishing flooring or floor screed under flooring. Moreover, insulating materials can also be used to improve performance.

One of the options for heated floors and tiles using

Is it possible to make a finished floor without a subfloor? Basically, it is possible, but in this case it is more difficult to achieve the required characteristics. If the requirements are not too high (dacha, summer or guest house, technical building) and it is important to get only minimum required, you can do without a subfloor.

If the requirements are high (for a residential or heated building), as a rule, a structure without rough flooring requires more money. Why? For subfloor use inexpensive materials. The main selection criterion is strength. On appearance no attention is paid and this allows the use of inexpensive materials. For example, unedged board(after appropriate processing), construction plywood, lean concrete slab. Other materials are laid on the rough base and the claims to their strength are minimal. The main emphasis is on “protective” characteristics. After all, the load falls on the floor structure and rough flooring, and not on these materials. And as a rule, they are relatively inexpensive.

All rough substrates can be divided into two large groups: dry and wet. All types or are considered wet. But we are not talking about them here. We will talk about dry ones, and in terms of joists and beams.

Today there are more modern technologies, but the subfloor remains the cheapest in terms of joists. This is a traditional version, which has been modified in order to adapt it to modern requirements for comfort and efficiency. But even with changes, it is difficult to achieve those parameters that are considered the norm today. In particular, sound insulation and thermal insulation cannot be ideal. You can only get closer to the norm. But the solution will not be the cheapest.

Floors on wooden beams

Beams in a floor structure are wooden or metal elements that rest on the foundation and serve to transfer the load. Since wood is still the cheapest tool for us, most often our beams are wooden. They are made from timber - solid, glued, or spliced ​​beams (from several boards) are used.

Beams can rest only on the foundation and can have intermediate supports. In houses with underground intermediate supports They serve as partitions; if there is no subfloor, they stack brick columns or make columns from reinforced concrete. Two layers of waterproofing (roofing felt or something like it, but not film) are laid on these supports, and beams or joists are supported on the waterproofing.

Beams and logs - the difference

How do beams differ from joists? In short, beams are load-bearing structures, but joists are not.

A beam is a linear element of load-bearing structures, supported at both ends (unlike a console) and working primarily in bending. As a rule, the cross-section of the beam is rectangular or square. In wooden houses they are also made from hewn logs. The installation step of the beams and their cross-section are considered when developing the project. Logs are also prescribed, but they are not so critical, so their characteristics can be changed during the construction process.

Lags are not elements load-bearing structure and they are simply made from a thick board, which is often placed “standing” - resting on the narrow part. With this installation, it is convenient to lay insulation between the joists - when choosing the step for installing the joists, the width of the insulation is also taken into account. The subfloor along the joists can also have insulation on top. This type is called a floating floor, since the finishing coating does not have direct contact with the base (in this case, the rough flooring).

There are two important points. The first is when using mineral wool as insulation, you need to measure the actual width of the roll or slabs. It does not always coincide with what is stated. Second, the distance between the logs should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then it can be placed in a spacer and it will hold on due to the force of elasticity. This makes installation easier. But there is one more advantage of this solution. Even if the insulation shrinks a little or dries out during use, gaps will not appear between the wool and the joist, since the material will straighten out.

When laying insulation, the main thing is not to leave any gaps and minimize cold bridges

When using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam as insulation, the pitch of the logs (and their cross-section) is also better to select. But in this case, “compressing” it will not work. The slabs are cut into pieces slightly smaller than the distance between the joists, and the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.

Lag installation step

The installation step depends on the board from which the logs are made:

• for a board 40 mm thick, the distance between the centers of the support is 80-90 cm;
• 50 mm - distance 100-110 cm;
• board thickness 60 mm - 120-130 cm.

The subfloor is the basis for the finishing floor, so it must be leveled to the horizon. The smoother the base, the less problems when laying other materials. Therefore, already when installing the logs, their edges are brought out at the same level.

One of the possible options

If the pitch of the beams is small - up to 80 cm, the rough flooring can be laid immediately, without logs (40 mm board). If the beam spacing is large, logs are laid across, and a subfloor is laid on them.

A couple of comments about the wide board. If your budget is limited, you can save money by making prefabricated joists. Two 25mm thick boards cost less than one 50mm wide board of the same length. We buy two boards, stack them one on top of the other, connect them with nails or self-tapping screws (nails are preferable). We install the fasteners on both sides in a checkerboard pattern. The logs are placed “on edge”, so that they are even stronger than the board – there is less chance of cracks appearing along the wood layer. There is one more nuance that will help avoid “torsion” of the prefabricated log: we place the boards so that tree rings were positioned towards each other.

Floor structures on wooden beams

When installing a subfloor, a board is often used. Basically, it serves only as a basis for laying insulation. The load from the insulation is small, so you don’t have to knock down the flooring tightly, but leave a gap of up to 1 cm. But such a sparse installation is suitable for materials with sufficient density. When using bulk thermal insulation, you will have to make a continuous sheathing.

For long beams or joists, intermediate jumpers are also added for a more stable geometry.

Subfloor on joists under screed (floating floor)

If necessary, you can do it. The only question is whether the beams can withstand the load. This is calculated separately. What's good about this design? Because:

• An ordinary “cold” floor can be made warm. You can even heat it up (if the beams can handle it).
• You can lay tiles on top of a concrete slab, lay sheet material and lay coverings that are demanding on the base - laminate, PVC tiles, linoleum.

Using the same principle, you can make a subfloor using wooden joists without cement. As a top layer, you can lay plywood, OSB and other sheet materials that you consider suitable in two layers. Again, tiles and any other type of finishing coating can be laid on such a base.

What kind of logs and board should I use? You can/should be selected, since the thickness of the board depends on the step of installing the logs:

• the distance between the lags is 80 cm (up to 100 cm is permissible, but not under screed or tiles, under lighter coatings) - board 40 mm;
• installation pitch lag 50-60 cm, board 30-35 mm;
• for boards smaller than 30 mm, support is required with a distance of 35-40 cm (depending on the specific thickness).

In this case, the subfloor may not be continuous, but with gaps. Under concrete slab It is best to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density polyurethane foam as insulation. You can use foam glass (foam glass), but it is very expensive. These materials can normally withstand the weight of a monolithic screed. By the way, since it is laid on an unstable base.

How to ensure long-term use

With this type of floor design wooden beams, it is important to protect the subfloor board as best as possible from rotting. If there is an underground floor below, you need to make sure that it is ventilated (vents) and that the humidity in the underground is as low as possible. You need a blind area around the house (preferably insulated), as well as a drainage system.

As an additional measure, a film with sand is used. A thick sheet of paper is spread on the ground PVC film in two layers - glue the joints with tape, place them on the foundation and secure them there. A layer of sand is poured on top of the film (at least 5 cm, but more is better). The film does not let in most of the moisture (if it is intact and the joints are well taped), and the sand adsorbs the excess and then slowly dries out. The same method is used when using any other subfloor along the joists.

Subfloor made of OSB (OSB). You can remove the rough flooring from the board and lay the slab in two layers

As already mentioned, the subfloor board can be edged or unedged. Required condition— operating humidity. Few people will use kiln drying, but the board must be dry - at least 6-9 months of drying. If the floor of the first floor is being laid, the material must be processed protective compounds. The humidity in the underground will be high, so the quality of processing should be good. It is better to process several times. There are more than enough chemicals for wood today. You can select by properties. If needed folk remedies is a processed oil.

Ground floor above ventilated subfloor

The ceiling of the first floor above an unheated underground floor is different in that it must be well insulated. If you are not going to heat the floor, you need to make sure that it is comfortable even with working air. To do this, it is better to make two layers of insulation and place them in different directions.

In this design, the rough flooring is only a support for the first layer of insulation, so it makes no sense to take a thick board here. Usually they take 25 mm, process it and use it for filing. In the design shown in the figure, it is nailed to the bottom of the beams. cranial block. Usually its cross-section is 25*25 mm. A roughing board is placed on the cranial block. The segments are short - the length is equal to the step between the lags. You can use substandard lengths for this flooring, but there is less waste if the length is a multiple of the joist pitch.

Waterproofing is laid on the rolling boards. Please note that if used as insulation mineral wool, the material must be vapor permeable. It should make it possible to remove moisture from the insulation. If the insulation is polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, foam glass, they themselves do not conduct steam and this layer is generally irrelevant.

The thickness of the insulation should be such that its upper edge is 2-3 cm below the edge of the beam. This is necessary to ensure ventilation gap. Wood changes humidity and it is necessary to give this opportunity by leaving a ventilation gap.

A cross frame is laid across the beams. These are lags. Their height depends on the required thickness of the insulation, and the installation step depends on what kind of flooring you plan on top. The dependence of board thickness on lag pitch is described above. But this can be not only a board, but also any sheet material.

Waterproofing flooring at a distance of 2-3 cm from the surface of the insulation

Vapor-waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation. This time the material should retain both vapor and liquid. In the case of using mineral wool, it is better to use a membrane with one-sided vapor permeability (for example, Isover or other brands have it). It must be laid so that steam can escape from the insulation. This solution is better, as it makes it possible to maintain normal humidity in the floor cake.

There are also options with one layer of insulation (in the picture above). This method is convenient if, according to thermal calculations, the thickness of the insulation is not too large.

What is the subfloor made from?

The subfloor can be made from boards (edged or unedged without bark) and any sheet material, including plasterboard. TO sheet materials include:

Now we are not talking about the environmental safety of the listed materials. Here everyone makes their own decision. The point is that any of these materials can be placed on the logs. These materials fulfill their role as foundations. The thickness of each material depends on the installation step of the beams or joists. Once you decide on a specific material, choosing the thickness will be easy.

The load from the structure falls on its foundation. The structure that precedes the final coating and serves as the basis for the insulation is the “subfloor”. The temperature regime of your room depends on how it is installed. If there are cracks left in it, then it will start flowing from below. cold air, dampness and a rotten smell will appear in the house.

Description

When choosing a material for the load-bearing beams of the floor structure as a whole, consider the area of ​​the room for which it will be intended. The larger it is, the thicker they are. This factor is explained by the fact that the final coating and all materials involved in the process installation work, should be evenly distributed on them.

How to make a subfloor in a wooden house

There are several options for its formation, but the “dry” method is more often used.

The subfloor is formed according to the following principles:

• According to the lags.
• “Prefabricated”, using dry screed.
• “Adjustable” (on plywood and chipboard).

"Prefabricated" subfloor

"Adjustable" subfloor

If the boards are laid on logs, then they are laid on the following base:

• Beams.
• Reinforced concrete slab.

The adjustable floor is formed on the following bases:

• Lags.
• Plywood.

What do you need to know?

It is laid on the main floor using less hard wood. These include coniferous varieties. These are the following types:

• Edged board.
• Gorbyl

In order to achieve the expected results from the installation, you need to know the following:

• The basis of the entire floor structure is a beam, which is laid on a layer of waterproofing (two layers of roofing felt).
• Rolled protective material or 2 layers of high-density polyethylene are spread on it.
• Logs are attached to the beam, which serve as a frame for installation. They are not brought to the walls, leaving a gap of up to 30 mm. This distance will be insurance against possible soil shrinkage (change temperature regime and level groundwater in the soil) and natural fluctuation humidity of the log during its operation.
• The artificially created free area between the wall must be filled with mineral wool.
• The entire tree must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. If ready-to-use materials are purchased, then the cuts made must be protected from moisture and bark beetles.

Do-it-yourself subfloor in a wooden house

To carry out the work, use a board with a thickness of 15 to 20 mm. Properly prepared for milling machines raw material, will create grooves and shoulders on its side. This option will eliminate the need to work with a hammer and nails, which will speed up the assembly process and the tightness of the connection. The rigidity of the structure will not create creaking.

The thickness of the subfloor board affects the distance (step) between the joists. The larger it is, the wider this gap. For example:

• With a board thickness of 40 mm, the step between the lags can reach one meter.
• With a thickness of 35 cm, the step between the logs should not exceed 850 cm.
• If the thickness is less than 35 cm, the step between the lags should not exceed 60 cm.

Of great importance correct location foundation pillars. They are located around the entire perimeter and in the central part of the building.

The thickness of the log is directly related to the spacing of the foundation pillars, since the main beam is attached to them.

The following relationships should be observed between the dimensions of the logs and the pitch of the foundation pillars, expressed in centimeters:

• The logs are 40 thick with a pitch of no more than 900.
• Logs thickness 50 at a pitch of 1100.
• Logs thickness 60 at a pitch of 1300.

Installation of subfloor using plywood

The sequence of work is as follows.

• The beams are placed on a layer of waterproofing.
• They lay on them roll material, providing protection from moisture.
• They fix the logs.
• They are lined with plywood sheet 10 mm thick or moisture-resistant boards (MDS, VAT).
• The seams of the connection are covered with construction tape or sealant is poured.
• Cover the subfloor with a layer of vapor barrier.

To insulate against condensation from the room side, the following materials are used:

• Cement mortar.
• Thick cellophane in 2 layers.
• Rolled foamed polyethylene on a foil base (lay with foil to the room) and other materials.

An air barrier must remain between the vapor barrier and the floorboards. The subfloor must be ventilated through holes in the foundation (vent).

Before application, insulate pipes and meters with construction tape. Apply it in layers using a brush, roller or rubber spatula. Please pay attention Special attention hard to reach places. After the first layer, self-adhesive tape must be applied to all joints and joints. It will be covered with the second layer. The composition should be partially applied to the wall (its lower part).

There are other materials for carrying out similar work. Rolled foil insulation can be used, which will simultaneously help insulate from noise and retain heat in the room. They are laid overlapping with the metal part towards the room.

Video: Correct installation subfloor

Conclusion

This type of “dry subfloor” can serve as the basis for the formation of the main coating. In some cases for installation parquet board or laminate, finished design covered with a layer of waterproof plasterboard.

Video: How to make a subfloor from plywood?

The subfloor, as a base, can be made of wood and concrete houses. The preliminary floor must be perfectly level. Installation of such a coating is a labor-intensive process, and it is best to trust the professionals.

Of course, you can make a subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands.

Before proceeding with installation, we will discuss with you the types and purposes of subfloors.

Types of subfloors

Flooring directly on the joists. In this case, we use chipboard, OSB, plywood or boards, which in turn are laid on logs.

This type of subfloor is well suited for surfaces with low load-bearing properties, which allows you to distribute the load over the entire floor area. It is recommended to use coatings such as laminate, linoleum or parquet boards.

Flooring directly under the joists. It is also called double layer. The space from joist to joist is filled with waterproofing, thermal insulation, and vapor barrier.

Subfloor directly on load-bearing beams. This flooring option should be used when designing a house.

In order to reduce the step between the beams from 1.2-1.5 m, as is usually accepted, to 0.6-1 m, then the beams will replace the logs. We discard the extra layer. In terms of everything Consumables, it turns out that we also save about 30%.

Plus we get an increase in the height of the room. But, in case you have already purchased ready house, don’t be upset, the subfloor boards can be thrown diagonally across the beams, this will ensure high strength of the floor surface.

Types of subfloor:

The wet base is a screed (concrete base) under which the wooden floor will be installed.

Since the concrete base is not level, an additional leveling layer will be required. Do finishing coat, it is possible only after completely dry rough foundation, approximately 7-8 days.

Dry is the flooring lag. They are laid on the ground covered with sand. When installing the log, use a ruler and level. Unlike a concrete base, a floor on joists is difficult to bring to a perfectly level state.

Protecting the subfloor from moisture

All subfloor components must be treated by special means against mold and rot. Processing of all wooden elements is carried out after drying - this is very important point, the less moisture in the wood, the better and more deeply it absorbs antiseptics.

Impregnation is done at least 2 times, do not forget about the cross sections of wood, they must be processed. It is not recommended to lay the boards first and then process them, because the ends will be open to mold and water vapor.

Natural ventilation of the underground, the most important Organizing time, when installing a subfloor. If it is not organized correctly, then not a single antiseptic will help you, and after a while you will have to change the entire floor covering.

Vents are made at a height of 30-40 cm, and 90 cm from the corner wooden house, so that the air does not stagnate.

To protect small rodents, you can install a metal grill on the vents. For the winter, you can close the vents to preserve the heat of the first floor, but be sure to open them as the weather gets warmer.

The preliminary floor does not have to be continuous. For flooring, you can use any material that can withstand this load.

Waterproofing is mainly used over subfloors. But it can also be used before, or crushed stone can be used as a material.

Roofing felt is used as waterproofing on top of the floor. We lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam) on top of the waterproofing.

After the insulation layer, you can begin installing the finished floor, but professionals recommend applying another layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation layer, and then the final floor covering.

Laying a subfloor on a concrete base

The most important condition is that the screed is perfectly level.

There are two options for installing a subfloor on the surface of a concrete base:

Reiki are used when it is necessary to carry out communications, mount additional insulation or the screed has significant differences, more than 2-3 mm.

Between the slats and the screed we lay a layer of waterproofing, usually roofing felt. We align the slats with pads and secure them with dowels. If necessary, we additionally insulate or install communications. Subsequently, we install the floor using boards or slabs.

Remember that two slabs will be joined in the middle on one rail. We lay out the slabs as brickwork, thanks to this we get an even distribution of the load on the slats. We fasten the slabs or boards with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying the subfloor concrete base, apply on a perfectly flat surface. To obtain a smooth surface, auxiliary compounds are used, usually construction adhesive. The glue is applied in an even layer, the slabs are laid one after another.

The glue under the slab removes all the unevenness and the subfloor becomes a monolith with concrete surface. The heads of nails and screws are recessed using a screwdriver or hammer. The holes from the caps are puttied with a special compound.

It is important to always leave a distance of approximately 1 to 2 cm between the walls and the floor. Do not forget to cover this distance with any insulation. If you plan to lay linoleum on top, then it must be sanded with special machines. Mainly the joints of the slabs.

Price of work performed

• Rough floor work for 1 sq.m. - on average 150-200 rubles.
• Finishing floor work for 1 sq.m. - on average 150-200 rubles.
• Completely rough floor, for 1 sq.m - on average 1200-1500 rubles.
• Completely finished floor, per 1 sq.m. – on average 2400-2800 rub.