The last, final operation of installing the floor is the installation of a plinth - a complex element of the interior that performs certain functional and aesthetic tasks. It closes the compensation groove between the floor and walls, if necessary, masks unevenness of the floor and walls near their junction, and you can hide additional wires and cables. Thanks to the skirting board, you can ensure a color match between the floor and walls, floor and doors, floor and furniture. It can interact in color and shape with wall coverings and fabrics in the interior. The width of the plinth is often chosen depending on the height of the room and doorways. The presence of chamfers and relief on the plinth sometimes creates a harmonious transition to the relief of the walls or the pattern of the floor covering.

Skirting boards are made from solid wood, veneered wood, plastic or molded cardboard, laminated, covered with decorative film. If desired, you can preserve the natural color of the baseboard, tint or paint it in any color. It can be straight or angular, single or multi-component, it can be nailed, attached with screws or special elements. Various modifications of skirting boards and fillets are shown in Fig. 61, 62.

In addition to regular skirting boards, some companies, for example Parador, produce skirting boards with snaps. Thanks to this design, skirting boards are easy to install and remove (for example, when changing wallpaper or painting walls), and the geometry of their cross-section allows you to lay behind them electrical cables(Fig. 63).

This reduces the cost of laying electrical networks (no need to ditch walls) and ensures easy access to the wires. In addition to straight skirting boards, shaped modifications are also made for edging columns or the junction of a floor with a wall with an arched surface.

To hide unsightly saw cuts and sloppy corner joints, various plastic plugs are used for internal and external corner(Fig. 64),

and in order to close the end cut of the plinth, for example door frames, elegant plugs are used (Fig. 65), painted to resemble aluminum, which are simply inserted along the cut contour of the plinth. Stickers with matching decors ensure a consistent style.

When decorating interiors, you often have to face the task of creating combined floor coverings, in which, for example, parquet is combined with natural stone, porcelain tiles, ceramic tiles. Joining materials, which have significantly different expansion rates when climatic conditions change, end-to-end with wood is unacceptable. A gap of about 4 mm is left between the border of the parquet and other material, which is filled with elastic sealant or floor sheet cork. Sometimes this gap is covered with a metal transition. These transitions may have different shapes and, if necessary, also be used to combine floor levels of different heights in rooms or at boundaries different types floor coverings.

Aluminum transition thresholds "Parador", able to withstand heavy loads, provide smooth transition between separate rooms with different materials and coatings, leveling differences from 3 to 18 mm (Fig. 66). The thresholds are made to match the color of silver, gold or bronze.

"Parador", capable of withstanding heavy loads, provide a smooth transition between individual rooms with different materials and coatings, leveling differences from 3 to 18 mm (Fig. 66).

The thresholds are made to match the color of silver, gold or bronze.

To hide the gap between floor coverings of the same height, special transition thresholds are used (Fig. 67), and for an accurate connection flooring with a threshold and other elevations, a final profile is used (Fig. 68).

From solid wood of various types of wood, the CHERS company produces various profiled and veneered skirting boards, as well as overlays, frames, and sill moldings (Fig. 69, 1-15).

When installing coverings made of linoleum and plastic tiles, polyvinyl chloride skirting boards are glued to the wall or partitions. The surface of the walls to which the plinth will be glued is thoroughly cleaned of wallpaper, uncured paints and other contaminants. The back side of the plinth is roughened with sandpaper. At the ends, cut to size, the skirting boards are cut on the edge with a chisel and a hacksaw.

After such preparation, the back side of the plinth is smeared with a flat brush with a thin layer of quick-drying glue 88N or KN-2 (KN-3) and allowed to dry for 10-15 minutes. When the first layer of glue dries, the surface is covered with glue again and the baseboard is left to partially dry the adhesive layer for 5-10 minutes. After this, the plinth is applied to the wall, pressed tightly and rubbed with a clean rag. When installing, a gap of 1-1.5 mm is left between the plinth and the floor surface to prevent deformation of the floor covering due to temperature changes in the room.

Wooden baseboards are nailed to pre-installed plugs in the wall.

When installing a monolithic mosaic covering, skirting boards can be made locally using a template strip using the following method. After 2-3 days. After laying the covering, they begin to install the skirting boards - decorative rollers, framing the floor along the perimeter of the walls. The location of the future plinth is moistened, a shaped template strip is installed and loaded. Then the mosaic mortar is laid in the gap between the wall and the batten with a trowel. Having filled the gap to half the height of the template strip, it is compacted with the edge of a trowel, after which the gap is filled to the upper edge of the template, compacted again, excess mortar is removed and the surface is smoothed with a clean trowel.

After the solution has set, the templates are removed, small holes and chips on the surface of the plinth are repaired with the solution, and the finished plinth is covered with a moistened cloth until the solution has set.

Finished skirting boards should not have protrusions or other defects visible from a distance of 3 m.

Below is the production technology of 4 finishing works, used in finishing the building.

7.1. Improved plastering of walls with cement mortar on stone

1. Scope of work:

1. Stuffing strips plaster mesh at junctions.

2.Applying the solution to the surface with leveling and troweling of the covering layer.

3. Plastering the slopes of heating niches.

4. Coating boxes, platbands and baseboards with mortar.

Plastering the surface is carried out by applying plaster compositions in the following sequence:

With improved plaster:

a) applying spray from conventional solutions;

b) applying a layer of soil from conventional solutions, followed by its leveling and alignment;

c) cutting corners, husks, appendages;

d) cutting ceiling rustics;

e) applying a covering layer followed by grouting.

Preparing the surface for plastering

Preparing the surface for plastering involves cleaning the surface from plasters that have lost their adhesion and astringent properties, products of brick destruction, old peeling paint layers, dust and dirt. Cleaning methods and means depend on the chemical composition of the material being cleaned, the nature of the contaminants and deposits. Requirements for the quality of cleaning are determined by the type of finish being designed.

Dust off surfaces before applying each layer of primer or plaster compositions. If necessary, surface notches must be made.

The adhesion of the plaster coating to the base depends on the quality of surface preparation for plastering. For interior decoration of ceilings, walls and partitions, this indicator, according to Table 8 of SNiP 3.04.01-87, must be at least 0.1 MPa.

Grease, bitumen and oil stains (traces of grease), efflorescence, protruding reinforcement, and rust are not allowed on the surfaces to be plastered. The surfaces of the walls are cleaned of mortar deposits by cutting them off with scrapers and plaster hammers, after which the surface is cleaned of dust with a rag.

Methods of applying and processing layers of plaster.

Improved plaster is performed according to grades without additional corrections. Brands are often arranged “under the cord”, i.e. without adhering to strict verticality. After preparing the surface, marks and beacons are arranged. Apply gypsum paste or mortar to each driven nail, align its front side at the level of the nail head and cut off the sides. Stamps are made in order to establish a rule on them, which is secured with plaster, nails or clamps. Typically, plaster or mortar is applied. After the plaster or mortar has set, the rule is removed by striking it lightly with a hammer, after which a strip of mortar, called a beacon, remains on the wall. Two beacons are made in the corners to form husks. After plastering the upper part of the walls, a pad is made using a regular or shaped trowel.

The work can be done this way. The top of the walls is plastered to the scaffolding, the walls are covered, smoothed and rubbed. Then the lower parts of the walls are plastered. During the plastering process, the work is checked, correcting inaccuracies. The deviation of the width of the plastered slope from the design one should be no more than 3 mm. To avoid large deviations on the walls with window openings, the walls are hung, beacons are arranged, a rule is applied to them, a distance equal to the width of the slope is measured from it, and the window frames are strengthened at this distance. This event ensures the exact width of the slopes. The top of the boxes on one wall should be at the same level.

Machines and mechanisms used when performing work:

for transporting materials to the workplace - Construction mast lifts 0.5 t

for applying layers of plaster - Mortar pumps 1 m 3 / h

Name and list of materials required to complete the work

Ready-made finishing mortar, heavy, cement-lime 1:1:6

Woven mesh with square cells No. 05 without coating

Gypsum binders G-3

Construction nails with flat head 1.6x50 mm

Technological properties of materials (mobility of mortar mixtures for plaster).

Purpose of the solution	Immersion of a standard cone, cm
Purpose of the solution	For manual method application	For mechanized method application
Spray solution
Soil for soil
Covering solution:
with plaster
without plaster

Name and list of main hand and mechanized tools

Quite often, indoor renovations are completed by installing and painting the baseboards. The plinth allows you to finally decorate the room and give it a certain attractiveness. There are several options for skirting boards, installed both on the floor and on the ceiling. We will learn further about what paint to paint the baseboard and the features of this process.

Floor plinth for painting: types of floor plinths

The plinth plays the role of not only an aesthetic element of the room, it also performs a certain functional load. Yes, installation on the floor wooden covering, requires the arrangement of a compensation gap, which is hidden behind the baseboard. The absence of this gap leads to deformation of the floor covering.

With the help of a plinth it is possible to hide certain communications that spoil appearance premises. The plinth is a transitional element from the ceiling to the walls and from the walls to the floor; it creates a certain harmony of color.

There are many options for floor skirting boards, which vary in shape, color and material.

The first version of the floor plinth is the most popular and ancient. For its production it is used natural wood. There are many options for wooden skirting boards, in different price categories, quality and species. A wooden plinth involves painting it in a certain color or varnishing it. Periodically, wooden baseboard painted during use.

Veneered type plinth - has wooden base And decorative coating. To protect the veneer, its surface is covered with melamine film. Veneered plinth is less expensive than wood, but it is resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations.

The easiest plinth to maintain and install is made of plastic. It is suitable under carpet, laminate and linoleum. Majority plastic skirting boards The texture resembles wood, but has higher performance characteristics. These skirting boards are distinguished by the presence of special channels inside which wires can be hidden.

The MDF plinth is installed on a flat wall and consists of a special strip that has a high mechanical strength. Apply to the surface of the plank paper base, forming the color and texture of the baseboard. This version of the plinth is environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature changes, and hygienic.

Aluminum floor plinths are rarely used in residential areas. Its use is relevant in industrial establishments. This version of the plinth is highly durable, hygienic and has a long service life.

The polyurethane version of the floor plinth is widespread. It is not afraid of moisture, so it is great for kitchens and bathrooms.

Paintable flexible skirting board made of polyurethane has good performance characteristics and can be easily installed indoors, repeating its shape. Due to flexibility polyurethane baseboard it is able to hide the largest irregularities in the walls. In addition, the product is characterized by the presence of grooves inside which wires are installed. Among the advantages of a flexible skirting board for painting, we note:

light weight of the product;
simple and quick installation;
resistance to mechanical loads;
resistance to moisture and temperature fluctuations;
use in various rooms: both in the bathroom and in the bedroom;
Possibility of self-coloring.

Floor plinth for painting: technology for painting floor plinth

Not each of the above options for floor skirting boards is suitable for painting. Some models are sold ready for installation and do not require additional finishing.

Most often, skirting boards made from fine-grained wood are used indoors; such products are sold both painted and unpainted. Buying skirting boards for painting has many advantages, such as:

perfect surface smoothness;
the presence of a primer layer that provides additional protection baseboards;
high level of permanent strength;
the ability to repaint the product in the desired color;
ease of installation;
masking the joint between the floor and the wall.

The process of painting skirting boards is quite complex and begins with choosing suitable color. When choosing the color of the baseboard, take into account the color of the floor and walls, the shade of the furniture in the room, the size of the room, design, main and additional lighting.

1. Paint the baseboard to match the ceiling or floor. With this move it is possible to increase the volume of the room.

2. If indoors low walls, then the baseboard should be painted to match the tone of the wall, so the walls will appear higher.

3. Another option is to paint the baseboards in color door frame Thus, it is possible to harmoniously connect them with each other.

4. If light and discreet colors are used in the decoration of the room, then you can paint the baseboard in contrasting and bright color. Thus, it is possible to achieve emphasis on this element.

For the manufacture of MDF skirting boards wooden plywood and a layer of paper are used for painting. The presence of a melamine coating protects the baseboard from moisture and other irritants. This version of the plinth is easy to install and maintain. There are options for MDF skirting boards with a pattern already applied or for painting.

There are two options for MDF skirting boards for painting:

light gray;
white plinth for painting.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of applying paint to floor skirting boards from MDF:

1. Painting the baseboard is done only after completion installation work. In order to prevent the paint composition from getting onto other surfaces, cover them with masking tape.

2. Before you start painting the baseboard, sand it using fine-grit sandpaper. Thus, lint will not rise on the surface of the panel.

4. To paint the baseboard, use a standard brush, the size of which directly determines the size of the baseboard.

When choosing a paint composition for skirting boards, pay attention to its components. For interior work We recommend giving preference to latex, water dispersion or acrylic base. After applying primer to the surface of the baseboard, begin painting it. To perform the work you will need:

directly to the baseboard;
paints;
gloves;
brushes;
polyethylene films;
containers for water.

Install polyethylene film on the floor. Put on gloves and start painting the baseboard. Work carefully, apply paint evenly, thin layers. Wait for the first layer of paint to dry and repeat the above steps again.

Painted wooden plinth - painting technology

For the construction of wooden plinths they use solid wood. This material is characterized by high strength, environmental safety and long service life. Before starting work, two layers of primer are also applied to the wooden baseboard. It will reduce paint consumption and increase adhesion between the wood and the paint composition.

When painting both the wooden floor and the baseboard at the same time. It is recommended to paint the baseboards first, and then the floor. During the work process, make sure that the paint does not drip onto the floor.

In order to avoid the appearance of drips, a spatula is placed under the extreme part of the plinth, and painting is done using a narrow brush.

If the floor will not be painted, it is recommended to protect it and the walls with masking tape. In order to receive high-quality coating, which will serve you for many years, apply paint to the baseboard in a thin and even layer. Painting with a large amount of paint will cause swelling and deformation of the coating. After applying each coat of paint, wait until completely dry, before applying the subsequent one.

Painting wooden baseboards - optimal solution for cases when it is not possible to find a skirting board of the desired tone.

What paint to paint the baseboard: reasons for painting the baseboard

Ceiling plinths are most often produced in light color, if the room has a light ceiling, then they will harmonize quite well with it. Therefore, there are supporters of the opinion that the plinth for ceilings on a foam, polystyrene or polyurethane basis does not need to be painted.

However, these options for skirting boards need to be painted, even white, for many reasons. Let's take a look at some of them:

These types of skirting boards quite often contain minor defects in the form of dents and scratches, which become noticeable in daylight; painting can correct this defect;
polystyrene foam has a loose structure that is translucent, its coloring gives the plinth greater solidity and improves its appearance;
dust accumulates better on unpainted material, and over time it turns yellow;
to clean painted baseboards, just wash them with a damp cloth;
in addition, it is with the help of paint that it is possible to hide the corner joints between the baseboards;
skirting boards made of wood are also painted, the paint ensures their protection and external factors and improves service life;
with the help of paint it is possible to create a baseboard of any shade that is in harmony with the room.

The process of painting the baseboard in an unspecified form is more convenient. However, in this case, after installing the skirting boards, the joints between them will remain visible. Yes, and there is a risk of contamination of the baseboard during installation work. Therefore, most often, skirting boards are painted after they are installed on the wall.

If the color of the baseboard and ceiling match, they are painted at the same time. At the same time, it is better to do this after completing final finishing walls in the room. Before applying the coloring composition to the surface of the ceiling plinth, it is recommended to coat it with a primer. It can be applied before fixing the skirting boards to the wall.

Enough important issue is the choice of coloring composition for finishing the baseboard. To paint the baseboard for painting, you need to use paint that has water base. Polystyrene foam, polyurethane - destroys alcohol, solvents such as white spirit and other aggressive substances.

Therefore, when painting skirting boards, it is recommended to use acrylic, latex or water-based paints. If the skirting board is painted before its installation, then it is allowed to use paint in a can. Thus, it is possible to speed up the work process. If you need paint a certain color, but couldn’t find it in the store, you’ll have to tint the coloring composition yourself.

How to paint foam baseboards

Before painting the ceiling plinth, it is necessary to prepare the surface for work. Eliminate defects between connected parts in the corners, get rid of scratches and dents.

In general, before you start applying paint to the baseboards, do the following:

1. Provide yourself with a sponge or soft rag, a container of water and a rubber spatula. Using a putty knife, spread the putty where two skirting boards meet or where there are imperfections on the surface of the skirting board.

2. To remove excess putty, use a sponge soaked in water. If there are joints between the baseboard and the wall, also seal them with putty solution.

3. Wait for the putty composition to dry completely and sand the surface with special tools.

4. After this, proceed to painting the baseboards.

The process of painting baseboards is quite simple if you do everything technological aspects its implementation. The nature of the work is determined by the stage of painting, whether this process is the final one in finishing the room, or after that the wallpaper will be glued to the wall. On initial stage work, it is necessary to clean the baseboard from dirt and apply a layer of primer to it.

If the baseboard is painted before finishing work on the ceiling and walls, then in this case it is preferable to use a spray can. The work will pass faster and takes little time. If the plinth is painted after finishing the walls, then, if necessary, masking tape is installed on the wall and ceiling to prevent paint from getting on them.

If paint does get on the wallpaper, you need to use a damp cloth or sponge to remove it. If you can’t stick masking tape on the wallpaper, then use the option below for painting the baseboards. Take a wide putty knife and install it to the baseboard from the wall side. Paint sections of the baseboard gradually, moving the spatula. After covering the baseboard with paint the first time, wait until it dries completely and repeat the process one or two more times.

The installation of any type of floor covering requires compliance with a certain sequence of work. Only in this case, the performance qualities of the selected floor will not disappoint their owner for many years.

Let us dwell on the technology for making mosaic floors based on concrete mixtures.

The technological sequence of the device process is determined by the following steps.

Preparing the underlying layer for a mosaic floor

It must be remembered that work on the installation of concrete mosaic coverings is carried out subject to certain temperature regime at the floor level and its base - above 5? C.

Also, the temperature of the materials used in the work should not be lower than this value.

The overwhelming number of types of mosaic monolithic floors consist of two layers:

underlying - a lower layer of cement-sand mortar laid directly on the base of the floor ( concrete preparation on compacted soil, reinforced concrete screed over the insulation layer, directly reinforced concrete slabs floors). Its thickness varies from 20 to 35 mm, sometimes more if a thermal heating circuit is installed in it.
front - a covering made of a mosaic-concrete mixture, the thickness of which varies from 15 to 25 mm and depends on the size and material of the mosaic inclusions in the decorative concrete mixture.

The compressive strength of each layer must be more than 200 kg/cm 2; as a rule, it is determined by the design documentation.

According to the technology for installing mosaic floors, for laying the underlying layer for the purpose of better adhesion to the base, it is prepared: the entire concrete surface the bases are notched or cleaned metal brushes. Special attention allocated to places of passage or exit engineering communications c, the holes around them are carefully sealed.

Lighthouse slats for laying the underlying layer are placed in increments corresponding to the length of the rules. Their thickness is assumed to be the same as the thickness of the cement-sand mortar, for the preparation of which Portland cement no lower than M400 is used (according to GOST 10178-85*).

Immediately before laying the underlying mortar, the entire rough surface of the base is moistened with water and treated with cement laitance.

The solution is laid in strips 1 ~ 1.5 m wide between the lighthouse slats. Then it is compacted using either wooden tampers or special vibrating slats, and leveled with a scraper - as a rule.

Such compaction eliminates possible cavities and air cavities inside the mortar mass, and also additionally ensures the strongest adhesion of the underlying layer to the base.

There is no need to smooth the surface of the underlying layer; on the contrary: it should be rough enough so that, in turn, it most reliably “adheses” to top layer– mosaic-concrete mixture.

Installation of lighthouse slats and core dividers for mosaic floors

After the underlying layer of cement-sand mortar has set (but not hardened!), the future mosaic is marked on it according to the design drawing.

At the boundaries of different color or texture elements, dividing veins are installed from various materials(usually brass or aluminum). Glass dividers are installed mainly in designs with strict geometric patterns of rectangular shapes.

The lighthouse slats are set in such a way that their top edge is 2 mm higher than the design level of the finished floor of the room (finally finished). The levels of the lighthouse slats and dividing veins must match.

To do this, if necessary, the veins are sunk into the unhardened underlying mortar layer. To avoid displacement of the separators, they are strengthened in a given position using cement marks.

This entire structure of lighthouse slats and vein dividers serves to accurately match the mosaic mixture laid between them to the given pattern.

In cases where the mosaic coating does not provide any ornament, it is sufficient to install only lighthouse slats with intervals between them of no more than 2.5 meters; this is required to eliminate the possible occurrence of shrinkage cracks in the monolith during its hardening.

The compositions of mosaic mixtures vary greatly. Both in terms of the mosaic filler and the type of binder, it depends on the purpose of the premises.

If you adhere to the standards, then for cooking 1m? The mosaic mixture will require: stone chips or crushed stone (5-15 mm in size) - 0.875 m?, Portland cement M400 (white or pigmented) - 0.6 tons, water for mixing the mixture - 312 liters.

The order for mixing in a concrete mixer is as follows: first - water, then pigments (if required) and cement, then add crumbs or crushed stone.

The mosaic composition is prepared directly on site with the expectation that the prepared mixture can be laid in 1 - 1.5 hours

Laying mosaic mixture and care

The mosaic mixture is laid on the underlying layer, which has not yet hardened, only then will both layers be securely connected into a monolith.

Where the mosaic floor adjoins vertical structures buildings (walls, columns), to eliminate the formation of deformation cracks in the floor covering, gaskets made of rolled bitumen or rubberized materials are laid at the junction points.

After laying according to a given pattern, the mosaic mixture is compacted to the level of the veins and lighthouse slats. An indicator of sufficient compaction can be the uniform appearance of laitance.

Once compaction is complete, the surface is smoothed using trowels. This technological operation must be completed before the mosaic mixture begins to set.

While the concrete mosaic mixture is gaining strength, it is necessary to protect the layer from rapid moisture loss.

Sometimes, instead of sawdust, covering is used polyethylene films, the main thing is that the entire floor must be covered evenly and do not forget to monitor the presence of moisture under the film at high temperatures.

Facial finishing of mosaic floor

Sanding mosaic floors begins no earlier than the coating reaches such strength that peeling of the mosaic filler is excluded. As a rule, this work begins on the 7th day after installation.

The surface is freed from covering materials, moistened with water and sprinkled with quartz sand. Then they carry out roughing - grinding with coarse-grained abrasive stones to a depth of 3 - 4 mm.

Then the coarse stones are replaced with abrasives with finer grains. The sanding process for mosaic floors is repeated until the mosaic pattern is revealed sufficiently to suit the design.

Surface polishing and polishing is carried out only if there are direct instructions for this in the design documentation.

When, during the process of sanding mosaic floors, any defects are revealed (pores, cracks, cavities), they are puttied cement mortar, and after drying - sanded.

Finished mosaic coverings have an even, horizontal and smooth structure with a uniform distribution of stone filler. Veins – correct forms with a clear arrangement of ornaments.

Installation of skirting boards for mosaic floors

Like any covering, skirting boards add the finishing touch. Skirting boards for mosaic floors are made either during the installation of the surface, or immediately upon completion of its installation.

The material of the skirting boards is the same mosaic concrete mixture, as a rule, the predominant shade. Skirting boards are made using a special template that gives it the required shape. The template can be metal or wood.

Sometimes for the manufacture of plinths they simply use cement-sand mortar, on which the plates are attached - the tiles of the main stone material coverings.

If design solutions do not assume eastern floral ornaments or with many small parts, then the technology for manufacturing a mosaic surface may well be mastered by the developer.

Another deciding factor to do it yourself or turn to specialists may be the need to purchase or rent special equipment and machines for grinding.

Tutorial

Plastering works

§ 14.6. Pulling out platbands and installing skirting boards

When pulling out the platbands (Fig. 79), a lot of time is spent cutting the corners. To speed up this operation and improve productivity, top part Platband 1 is pulled out slightly longer than required in order to then cut off the rod at an angle of 45° and cut the corner not on both sides, but only on one. The lower parts of the side trims 2 and 3 must be pulled until they are completely connected to the window sill rod 5.

Rice. 79. Pulling out platbands:
1 - top trim, 2, 3 - side trims, 4 - right side, 5 - window sill rod, 6 - template

When pulling out the window sill rod 5, it is advisable to make the upper sill on the profile board as narrow as possible and pull it out not along two, but only along one wide lower rule 4, which gives stability to the template 6.

In bathhouses, laundries, staircase landings, in the halls residential buildings and other similar places, cement plinths are sometimes installed. Using templates to pull them out is inconvenient and time-consuming. It is best to make a profile trowel and use it to rub the baseboard correctly. It's even easier to cast a plinth. To do this, a wooden plinth with a reverse profile is installed at some distance from the wall and a thick solution is poured into the gap.

The next day the wooden plinth is removed. To make it easier to remove from the solution, it is lightly lubricated before installation. machine oil or other lubricant. After stripping, the plinths are corrected.

The plinth can also be installed from pre-prepared concrete parts.