Whether you like to swim or just relax near the water, relaxing on the shore of a body of water is one of the wonderful pleasures of summer. But not every summer resident has the opportunity to build a summer house near water. Therefore, sooner or later, each of us thinks about how difficult it is to make a pond on the site with our own hands. Ideally, we see a pond at the dacha not only as decorative element landscape design, but also as a small pond in which you can happily swim on a hot day.

However, faced with colorful descriptions of the technical difficulties, costs and nuances of regular care, many of us give up on this idea.

Let's start with the basics - what fundamentally distinguishes a pond from a swimming pool is the self-regulation system.

DIY swimming pond.

We'll walk you through the process of creating a pond step by step, so you can make your own garden pond - creating a cool oasis in the middle of the heat right on your summer cottage, where with every light breath of fresh breeze our everyday worries disappear.

A garden pond is a living organism.

The pond at the dacha imitates the process that nature uses to keep lakes clean. Everything from the size and shape of the pond, plant species and water circulation are designed to maintain the pond in a stable natural state.


The problem that a pond owner faces is maintaining a balance between plants and water - the plants either die or cover the entire surface of the pond. Only a pond that represents a balanced ecosystem provides optimal water clarity and quality, and maximum enjoyment from swimming in the pond.


The water in the pond must circulate among the roots of the plants to cleanse itself. Plants enrich the water with oxygen, which supports the vital activity of beneficial bacteria that utilize pollutants and potentially pests, and also create habitat for dragonflies, frogs and other aquatic inhabitants. The result is a stable, ecologically diverse system. Nature has revealed its technology to us and we need to use it carefully.

How to make a pond yourself. Principles of pond operation.

Water is a living biologically active component and all purification occurs due to the work of plants and beneficial microbes. For this purpose, the pond has a swimming area and a filtration area for plants. The filtration zone is actually the swamp part of our water zone, and just like in nature, it is this zone that guarantees the cleanliness of the entire reservoir. This zone must occupy at least 50 percent of the total surface area of ​​the pond.
If you have noticed, in nature there are almost no tiny bodies of water with consistently clean surface water - they quickly become overgrown or silted up. Natural stable biological balance can be achieved in ponds with an area of ​​100 sq.m. Smaller ponds require more of our attention, because... Their biological balance is precarious. Therefore, to maintain cleanliness, these ponds include a skimmer and UV sterilizer, but still offer a chemical-free swimming area and support the growth of aquatic plants.


It is useful to regularly enrich the water with oxygen by adding a small waterfall, stream or fountain to the pond. Although, an aerator can be used for the same purposes.

How is water purified in a pond?

You can see that the process of filtering water in a pond is not complicated:
1. Water from the swimming area flows into the regeneration area.
2. Water circulates back to the bathing area.

Through drainage pipes under the roots of plants in the regeneration zone and/or after the skimmer, water is pumped through a UV sterilizer into a waterfall, stream or to the bottom of the swimming area. The pipe leading to the bottom of the swimming area is raised slightly above the bottom so that the flow of water prevents the formation of silt on the bottom.

What should the shape of the pond be?

The pond bowl looks more like a soup bowl with large rims than a bathtub. The height difference should be about 30 cm for every meter of depth. It is this shape of the pond bowl that ensures the stability of the walls. The picture shows a cross section of a pond with a planting and swimming area:

After compacting the surface layer of soil in the pit, geotextiles and a sealed liner are laid on the bottom of the pond. In the plant area there are drainage pipes and gravel. In order to separate the swimming zone from the plant zone, a small mound is formed - its top is 3 cm lower from the surface of the water. You can make it from bags of sand or gravel. The mound allows water from the swimming zone to pass into the plant zone, where the water is filtered by plant roots, and at the same time protects the plants from fluctuations in the water of the swimming zone.


This pond design will allow you to conveniently clean the swimming area without affecting the plant area. In addition to cleaning the water, the shallow waters warm up quickly and provide habitat for frogs and other invertebrates, which you will appreciate when they begin to eat mosquito larvae.

To imitate the natural contours of a pond, use a combination of different pond edge profiles. If you place plants on the terraces of the pond, it is better to do this in pots so that they can be easily removed when cleaning the pond.

What size pond is suitable for our site?
The optimal size of the pond is 1/10 of the area of ​​your site.

What about mosquitoes?
One of the first questions that arises when you hear the word “do-it-yourself pond” is what about mosquitoes? Mosquitoes breed only in stagnant water, but the water in a pond will never be static, so mosquitoes will find it unattractive for their habitat. Even if at some point they appear, the ecosystem of the pond in the form of frogs will reduce their population to a minimum.


Why make a pond at your dacha?
People who make a pond with their own hands make this decision because they want their pond to be a beautiful part of the landscape design and at the same time have a clean, attractive place for swimming on a hot day.
Is it possible to have fish in a swimming pond?
Unfortunately, fish, on the one hand, happily eat beneficial microflora, on the other hand, they are carriers of pathogenic bacteria, so there should be no fish in bathhouses.


Is it possible to do sand beach on the pond?
The best solution for entering the pond is a walkway or ladder. For a beach entrance to the water, you need enough area, because... The angle of entry into the water is small. In addition, the sand quickly silts up - those beaches that we see are often simply trampled down to sand, most of the shore of the pond is usually densely overgrown with plants.

Should I swim with frogs?
Yes, frogs are full-fledged and important inhabitants of the pond. Additionally, to purify the water in the pond, it is good to have bivalve shells or pearl barley, which filter water up to 40 liters per day. You can also get snails (coils, livebearers) - they eat dead plants and clean the pond well.

Which the best place for a pond?
It is better to place the pond away from trees, because... falling, the leaves will rot in the pond. Moreover, growing roots can damage the waterproofing film or tilt the finished container. The illumination of the area should be about 5 hours in the morning, and the rest of the time should be in partial shade. The pond does not need high illumination because... leads to increased formation of algae and overheating of water in the reservoir.

What to do with a pond in winter?
In winter, the pond, like natural bodies of water, freezes. There is no need to drain it. For the winter, all equipment (pumps, filters, skimmers) must be removed from the pond.

Does soil type affect the creation of a pond?
No, the composition of the soil does not affect it. There is a misconception that it is good when the groundwater level is high. In fact, groundwater at the freezing level is more of a problem. When ice freezes, it can bulge the bottom of the pond. This is especially problematic if the pond is made on the basis of a rigid finished mold.

DIY pond made of film.

The main question when creating a pond is how to make it waterproof. There are several types of pond waterproofing - film, clay castle, concrete and rigid form installation.

Installing a rigid mold is a simple and durable method, but they are not usually available large sizes up to 3.5 sq. meters. Their service life is 10-50 years.

Waterproofing with concrete is the most expensive; in addition, to protect it from frost, it requires additional treatment with a frost-resistant agent and liquid glass.

A clay castle is the cheapest in terms of materials, but the most labor-intensive. In order to waterproof a pit with clay, the compacted soil is covered with wood ash or soot. Then a 15 cm layer of clay dough is applied to the walls and compacted. When the layer dries, apply a second 30 cm. When the layer is almost dry, crushed stone is poured onto it, slightly pressing it into the layer.

The optimal solution for the construction of ponds with an area of ​​more than 5-6 sq.m. - film waterproofing.


How much film is needed for a pond:
Film length= length of the pond + 2 depth of the pond + 50 cm reserve for fasteners.
Film width= pond width + 2 pond depth + 50 cm margin for fasteners.

The film is available in widths from 2 to 10 m and lengths of 10-50 m. Knowing your needs, you can choose the optimal roll. Buy the film before digging a pit; this will allow you to cover it immediately when the pit is ready, preventing its edges from fraying.
Which film to choose for a pond.
PVC film for a pond is cheaper, but over time it is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, its service life is 8-10 years.
Butyl rubber fabric is more expensive, but has protection from both ultraviolet and cold. The service life of such film is 50 years.

DIY pond construction photo.

A do-it-yourself pond begins with marking a pit. The curved shape can be marked with a hose. We remove the turf along the coastline and remove the soil with a bayonet - this will be the line of the swamp zone, then the next level of soil is removed inside the resulting border, and so on. As a result, our terraces will be 50 cm wide with slopes of 20 cm. When the pit for the pond is ready, all solid objects that can damage the film: stones, roots, etc. , we remove. We level and compact the walls and bottom of the pit.

Before work, the film is laid for several hours in a sunny place so that when it warms up, it becomes more elastic. Film installation is done in warm weather. Overlapping panels of geotextile or felt are laid on the compacted pit; they are needed to protect the waterproofing film from protruding roots and stones over time.


Spread on top of geotextiles waterproofing film with a margin of 50 cm at the edges of the pit. The edges are temporarily fixed with stones. The film is allowed to sag a little, smoothing and leveling it to the shape of the pit.


The film inside the swimming area can be protected with dry stones stacked on top of each other.


Instead of stones, you can use bags of gravel or sand. But keep in mind that it is more convenient to care for a pond with film walls. – it is easier to clean it from silt and mud.

Fill the pit with water in portions, removing air bubbles from under the film.

When the pond is completely filled with water, securely fix the ends of the film in a trench, which is made at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the pit. In a trench 20 cm deep, the edges of the film are wrapped in a roll and covered with stones and pebbles.

We make a pond with our own hands. Coastal decoration.

After you have made a pond with your own hands, before you start decorating the shore, you need to water it generously and wait 2-3 days, because... shrinkage is possible. In addition, during this time the water in the pond will settle.
We mask the film on the shore with crushed stones, stones, and snags. We plant plants in shallow water. A pond needs plants that saturate the water with oxygen. There are many suitable plants - reeds, crabgrass, iris, bathwort, marigold, arrowhead. Any plant that grows on the shore of a natural body of water will be suitable for your pond. Don't forget about algae, such as hornwort, which just floats in the water. Deciduous ornamental shrubs It is better to plant behind marsh herbs that are planted directly on the shore.


Illumination adds additional charm to the pond.


Floating flower beds look seductive on the surface of the pond.


Pond safety.

If there are very young children in the family, then perhaps the construction of a pond should be postponed until they are older. It is necessary to consider visiting the pond by elderly people and children school age. Do comfortable staircase to enter the pond, remember to clean it so it doesn't become slippery! It is better to cover all other sides of the pond, except the entrance, with plants.

Pond care.

The new pond will find its own natural look within a year - while it forms its ecosystem. The small world of your pond is very vulnerable. The pond may quickly heat up or freeze, water may evaporate, or the pond may overflow after rain. This puts stress on aquatic life that cannot immediately transition to a safer, more stable environment.


Therefore, your pond, like any living organism, requires care. On a hot day, you need to add water, use a net to collect debris that floats on the surface, check whether the plants have grown or perhaps something has not taken root and needs to be replanted. However, a surprising number of life forms will colonize your new pond; they will quickly explore new waters and will stay if conditions suit them.

The quiet splash of water is the most enchanting melody of a hot summer; water bewitches, attracts and seduces us playful game light, transparent depth and life-giving coolness. A DIY pond will give your dacha a special charm.

Having your own pond on your own property is not only one of the ways to create a comfortable, relaxing atmosphere at your dacha, but also an opportunity to add an exclusive twist to landscape design. Do you think such a hydraulic structure is beyond your strength? You’re wrong, we’ll tell you how to lay a pond with your own hands, spending a minimum of money and effort.

Selecting a location

A well-chosen place for the future pond is the key to its long-term operation and maintaining a presentable appearance.

Accounting for relief and soil

There are several important rules, which will help you choose the right place for the structure:

1. Openness of the site. It is recommended to choose a place that is as open as possible, free from trees, bushes and other plantings. The presence of plants nearby is undesirable for several reasons: root system trees will damage the walls of the reservoir, and leaves, fruits or branches, falling into the water, will rot, which is why the water will quickly begin to deteriorate.
2. Relief and soil. The best option is an area that remains wet for a long time after rain, because loamy or clay soil. Placing a pond here will provide an opportunity to significantly save on waterproofing. Great place depressions or hollows formed naturally can serve as a reservoir. And if the pond is located in an area with a high level of groundwater, it will be necessary to implement drainage systems.
3. Proximity to a water source. Such reservoirs should be carefully and regularly looked after: change the water, clean it of algae, so it is very important to provide for the presence of a water source nearby, which will significantly speed up and facilitate the process of filling the structure with new water.
4. Possibility of territory expansion. If the size of the plot allows, then you should take into account in advance the possibility of expanding the pond: creating new decorative designs, construction of a bridge, gazebo, etc.

Correct lighting

A large role in choosing a location for future design sunlight plays. It is very important to choose a moderately lit area, without direct sunlight. Constant sunlight will dry out the water and promote the active reproduction of aquatic bacteria, activating growth green algae, formation of mud. On the other hand, a lack of sunlight will lead to inhibition of the growth of ornamental plants.

Important! You can build an artificial pond on any type of soil. However, for some of them, construction costs and time will increase significantly.

The ideal is:

• the area over which the sun appears before 11:00 am and after 15:00;
• general illumination - no more than 6 hours a day;
• darkening of the pond - at least 40% during peak sunshine.

Construction technologies

There are several technologies for constructing an artificial pond, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Having studied the features of each, you can do optimal choice for your site.

Film

The simplest, cheapest and universal method formation of a pond - using a special film. To organize it, 2 types of film are used:

After the selection of a suitable film is completed, construction work begins:

1. Mark the area where the pond will be located.
2. Dig a pit according to the dimensions of the structure.
3. Prepare the substrate. To do this, the walls and floor of the pit are well compacted, a layer of waterproofing is laid, which can be geotextiles or PVC film, covered with sand and compacted again.
4. A film is laid on top of the sand layer. During this event you may encounter some problems: firstly, due to uneven surface Wrinkles may form on the film. This is quite normal, but it is better to try to make one large fold than many small ones. Secondly, it is not recommended to allow the material to be stretched, since it may burst under the weight of water.
5. After laying the film, begin pouring water. The pond filled with water is left for several days, and then the protruding pieces of film are carefully cut off.
6. The last stage is the strengthening of the “coastline”. Stone, pebbles, geomats, and gratings are used as reinforcing materials.

This method has a number of advantages over others:

• low cost of materials;
• simplicity and ease of implementation;
• the ability to create a structure of any shape and size;
• fast pace of pond creation;
• there is no need to contact specialists, since even an inexperienced master can build a reservoir.

Did you know? Very often the bottom of the pond is lined with film blue color, supposedly to match the water. In fact, blue bottom does not exist in nature - it is dark or dark gray. This is the color that should be preferred.

When organizing a pond on a film basis, you need to remember that it will not last long, and you need to be prepared for the fact that it will have to be repaired annually. The film is easily damaged, torn or cut when cleaning. In addition, edges lying on the surface can melt when exposed to the sun.

A concrete pond is considered one of the most durable, reliable and durable ponds. Its construction takes place in several stages:

1. They dig a pit with a margin of 20–25 cm, which is necessary to strengthen the bottom.
2. Remove stones, remnants of roots and other objects from the pit.
3. Cover the bottom with a 15 cm layer of crushed stone and compact it.
4. Starting from the center to the sides, lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. Concrete is poured: the solution is mixed, a reinforcing mesh is made, and the mixture is poured. Allow to harden and finally apply a layer of liquid glass.

A concrete pond can boast of the following advantages:

• strength and durability of the structure;
• the ability to create a reservoir of any shape;
• ease of maintenance;
• low cost of concrete solution.

However, building a concrete bowl is not as easy as it seems at first glance. During the work it will take a lot of effort and time. Besides, concrete structure requires additional processing frost-resistant agents and liquid glass.

The easiest thing to organize is a pond made from a ready-made bowl. IN construction stores You can purchase structures made of polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride.

Important! Ordinary concrete needs both internal and external waterproofing. There are brands of material that are not afraid of moisture, but they are very expensive and require special technology fills. Because of this, using expensive concrete to create ponds is in most cases impractical.

Such artificial ponds quite durable and frost-resistant. Their main advantages are considered to be:

• Not heavy weight designs;
• convenience and ease of installation;
• quite a decent service life - up to 15 years;
• low maintenance requirements.

Plastic ponds are not without their disadvantages, including:

• small dimensions and inability to expand the reservoir;
• high price for quality material;
• unnatural appearance.

You can also make an artificial pond from available materials. For example, old cast iron bath can serve as an excellent form for a future reservoir. Such a pond is highly resistant to sun and water, is quite durable and can last for many years.

The disadvantage of this design is its unnatural appearance, since the bathtub has only rectangular shape, as well as the large weight of the material, which may cause problems with its transportation to the site.
An old one can also serve as a form for a pond. car tire. Of course, there is no need to talk about a large pond here, but organizing an original, interesting corner on your site is quite possible. To build it you need:

• cut off the top of the tire;
• dig a hole, with a small margin around the perimeter;
• lay the tire down and cover it with film;
• secure the film, pour water into the pond.

Did you know? Ifinto the pond plannedlaunch fish, then its depth should be at least 2 m, and for carp habitat - at least 2.5 m. It is this depth that allows the water not to freeze in winter.

The coastal zone of the reservoir can be decorated with stones, pebbles, and various plants.

How to make a pond

To make a good, high-quality pond with your own hands, you should put in a little effort, as well as spend your time and money. But the result is worth it, and the mini-reservoir will delight you and your family for many years.

The process of building a structure that will function year-round consists of the following stages:

1. Formation of the pit. One of the most important and at the same time difficult actions is digging a pit. On the rise of the pit it is necessary to make several terraces: the largest - at a depth of about 2 m, where fish will live. Further, gradually rising - at a depth of 1 m and 0.5 m, respectively. It is necessary to ensure that the walls of the pit are not completely smooth, but are formed in the form of small steps, otherwise, after the film is laid, it it will simply “slip”. After digging a pit, it is necessary to remove upper layer soil by approximately 0.5 m, forming a small trench. Such an improvised “side” needs to be made at a slight slope so that water after precipitation does not flow into the reservoir, but remains in the gutter. Next, you should carefully compact the walls and bottom: first use a wide board, then sprinkle the walls and bottom of the pit thin layer sand and compacted with feet.
2. Strengthening the structure. To give the structure strength, you will need grade 500 cement, water and a regular watering can. The work is carried out according to the following algorithm: the steps of the pit and its bottom are generously watered with water from a watering can, then sprinkled with a fairly dense layer of dry cement. When the cement is absorbed, a strong “crust” forms on the surface. Such manipulations are carried out over the entire area of ​​the pit. Upon completion, it is necessary to leave the pond to harden for 1 day so that the cement sets.
3. Laying rough and finishing films. A film is laid at the very bottom of the pit (where the terrace is 2 m deep), or you can use an old inflatable pool as a material. The bottom is covered with a pool or film and secured to the ground using metal brackets (you can make the brackets yourself by bending the rod into a U shape). Next, using a rough film, you should line the entire area of ​​the pit. To keep the film in place and not move, it is fixed on the ledges with stones or bricks. On top of the rough it is necessary to lay the finishing film in the same way, fixing all the ledges with small layers of stones. The finishing film has good wear resistance, frost resistance, and can last for many years. After laying the film, you need to make sure that along the entire edge of the bank there is a sufficient margin of 20–30 cm, which is necessary for reliable fastening edges.
4. Pond decoration. The coastal part of the pond along the perimeter must be lined with small wooden blocks (logs). It is advisable to “adjust” each such blank to the same size, so that such an artificial fence has aesthetic appearance. Also the territory between wooden piles and the edges of the pond can be lined with natural stones. Next, the pond is filled with water and decorated as desired: plants, algae or reeds are planted, and wooden snags are placed. If the reservoir contains fish, then you need to add some river water to it.

Video: how to make a reservoir - a pond on a plot, dacha

DIY fish pond: 4 ways to build a pond with instructions + 5 benefits of film insulation + 9 tips for building a pond.

Starting your own business can be very difficult.

Some ideas are very profitable, but only in the long term. How can you make money flow to you within a couple of months?

The fish pond will become one of the best options , What . Today we will look at how you can make this idea a reality.

Detailed instructions and tips for arranging a pond for fish farming will allow you to build the main component of your business project within 3 to 10 days.

Fish pond: popular destinations

In Russia, fisheries are located at high level since ancient times.

Strong competition from foreign producers has driven large companies supplying fish products out of the market. This event gave impetus to the development of small businesses aimed at supplying regions where importing fish from afar is not a financially viable solution.

What are the directions in fish farming?

• Growing in a pond.

  Suitable for most species that are bred on an industrial basis.

• .

  Suitable for river species such as pike, crucian carp, perch and others.

• Cage fish farming.

  Requires placement on natural reservoirs, which is not always convenient.

• Homemade mini-ponds.

  They have non-standard proportions in terms of structures.

Today we are considering the first direction - growing fish in a pond.

It is optimal for implementation and does not require large expenses. The advantages include the high payback rate of the reservoir.

Where to start building a fish pond?

The first thing to take care of is the place where the pond will be located.

At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing special here, and absolutely any site will do. But if you want the pond to serve you for a long time, you should pay attention to the generally accepted principles of constructing such structures.

How to choose the best place to build a pond:

• Begin construction on a hill, otherwise water may fall into the pond. rainwater and drain the dirt.
• There should be no bushes or trees near the place where the building will be located.

  Leaves that fall into the pond will trigger the process of decay, which will negatively affect the general condition of the reservoir.

• It is desirable to have artificial shade.

  It should not cover the entire area.

  The optimal location would be to constantly position about 30% of the space in the shade throughout the day.

• It is better to select soil without large stones or clay.

  The process of digging a hole for construction will be simplified many times. But here it is at the discretion of the owner.

The depth of the pond for normal functioning must exceed 160 cm.

There should be no foreign impurities at the bottom, but vegetation will always be in place in a finished pond.

The location must be suitable not only for keeping animals. The fish must be able to go through its entire life cycle, including spawning.

4 ways to build a fish pond

Method 1. Fish pond without finishing.

Easiest to build. All you need to do is make a depression for the future reservoir and cover its walls with clay mixed with turf.
But let's still look at the technology in more detail.

What materials will be needed:

• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• mixture - clay with turf;
• tubes for water supply/discharge;
• shovel for leveling the walls of the pond.

This is just a rough list. If you are planning a large pond, digging can be done using large construction equipment.

Construction scheme:

1. Draw the boundaries of the future construction site.
2. Dig holes along the marked boundaries.
3. Draw canals from the pond to the water supply point.
4. Place the tubes along the dug channels.
5. Combine clay with turf in a ratio of 50% to 50%.
6. Use water to obtain the desired consistency. Be careful not to let the mixture become too liquid.
7. Line the bottom and side walls of the cavity with the mixture.
8. Fit problem areas To the right proportions and level everything with a spatula.

Whether to cladding or not is up to you to decide. The resulting pond is already a full-fledged reservoir where fish can be raised.

Method 2. How to build a fish pond with film flooring?

The most flexible of the options, which does not require special construction instructions. The scheme is easy to implement even for those who are doing this for the first time.

What materials will be needed:

• digging tools;
• drainage pipes;
• film 0.5 - 1 mm thick, preferably black;
• pegs or stones.

The flexibility of this method lies in the ability to make boundaries of any irregular shape. The film will lie along the perimeter and, when filled with water, will acquire the contours of a depression.

To build you will need:

1. Outline the boundaries of the future pond.
2. Dig a recess with arbitrary wall relief.
3. Construct channels for drainage.
4. Cover the recess with film and make holes at the junction points of the water supply pipes and the pond space.
5. Secure the edges of the film with pegs or stones.

Experience in fisheries has shown that the best option Polyethylene is used to insulate the pond. For large spaces, custom-made film with increased strength indicators is used.

What are the advantages of polyethylene waterproofing:

• low cost of material;
• simplified installation procedure;
• after installation, the pond is immediately ready for use;
• the material is very durable;
• easy to carry out renovation work with the material.

In addition, the film is non-toxic to fish and safe for aquatic vegetation.

If desired, you can order special waterproofing with increased strength.

Method 3. Fish pond using plastic.

Unlike the options described above, here the main difficulties may arise at the stage of adjusting the shape of the recess to the relief of the plastic.

Plastic frames are usually made to order. It wouldn’t hurt to think about what you want your pond to look like and discuss the issues with experts.

Instrumentation is not particularly different from construction using other methods. The main component is a plastic frame, under which all other parameters should be adjusted when building a pond.

Construction algorithm:

1. Take measurements of the frame, such as length, width, diameter.
2. Make markings on the ground according to the shape of the plastic frame, taking into account the dimensions.
3. Dig a hole, observing the shape and depth of the workpiece.
4. Make an allowance of 6 - 7 cm around the perimeter for further adjustment.
5. Place the mold and draw channels to accommodate the water supply pipes.
6. Connect the pipes and finally level the space around the perimeter of the structure, filling the gaps between plastic mold and the shore.

The downside, perhaps, is the fixed size of the pond. If you plan to develop a large business, this construction method will not work.

Although the design is durable compared to other options, the cost plastic frames quite high.

Method 4. Construction of a fish pond from a concrete mixture.

The most time-consuming method to achieve your goal.

The result will be a highly durable and high quality fish pond. You should take the choice of location and procurement of materials for construction especially seriously.

What materials will be needed:

• tools for digging holes;
• sand with fine gravel.
  Required to strengthen the base at the bottom in the presence of soft areas;
• tubes for collecting/draining water;
• waterproofing material.
  The ideal option would be a film with a thickness of 0.6 mm;
• cement with filler (sand or small crushed stone);
• shovel for leveling the surface of the pond;
• containers for mixing components;
• reinforcing mesh;
• liquid.

The process of building a fish pond in this way is a step-by-step process and can take 1-2 weeks.

The technology should be strictly adhered to in order to avoid problems with the fish farming pond in the future.

Algorithm for constructing a fish pond:

1. Using a pointed tool, draw the boundaries of the future reservoir.

   Choose the form at your discretion.

2. Dig the 1st test layer along the perimeter of the borders by 1 bayonet.

   The bevel of the side walls should be no more than 25 degrees.

3. Dig water inlet and outlet channels for pipes.
4. Place the pipes inside the channel.
5. Dig a hole to the depth you need.
6. The soil at the bottom should be compacted manually or using special tools.

   If the bottom is soft, it needs to be strengthened using sand and gravel.

   The layer of stones is covered with sand no more than 1-2 cm thick.

7. Cut the insulating film to the shape of the bottom of the pond with a margin for the walls.

   Press the material well to the ground and secure it at the top with pegs or stones.

8. Mix the concrete.

   For the preparation, use 1 part cement to 3 parts sand (the filler may be different).

   Mix everything thoroughly and add liquid to obtain the required consistency.

9. Spread the resulting solution evenly on the surface. waterproofing material no more than 1 cm thick.

   After application, allow the concrete to harden before applying the next layer.

   Continue the process until the thickness concrete covering will not become about 9-10 cm.

10. After 4-5 layers of concrete mixture, reinforcing mesh should be laid.

    It will be a good support for your pond.

    Place the mesh along the bottom walls, and, pressing lightly, adjust it to the shape of the recess.

    Pour the next layer of concrete on top and let the mixture harden.

11. Place water supply/discharge tubes in the channels.

    Adjust the joints of the holes between the walls and the pipe.

    Fill the gaps with concrete and smooth them out with a spatula.

12. Carry out the cladding concrete mixture using a spatula around the perimeter of the entire pond.

Minor nuances and errors can be resolved after filling the pond.

The construction is very strong and durable. If you wish, you can beautifully decorate the shores and, in addition to trade, begin providing tourist fishing services.

All 4 methods of creating a reservoir for fish farming are easy to implement with the proper level of perseverance and effort.

Based on the size of the desired structure, it is worth choosing the most rational methods of constructing a pond.

Construction of a fish pond

We have looked at how you can create a pond for fish breeding, and now let's dwell on the issue of its design and arrangement at all stages of construction.

1) What equipment is needed to set up a pond?

Have you filled your pond and want to start breeding fish?

Animals living in open water bodies have their own characteristics that are reflected in their living conditions. You should find out more about the type of fish you are going to breed and prepare for it optimal conditions.

Will become indispensable in any pond gravity filter.

Mobile attachment for filtering pond water when breeding fish. The price for such a mechanism is in the range of 4,000 – 6,000 rubles.

The next indispensable attribute of any place where aquatic life is bred will be compressor. It will prevent the death of organisms by saturating the water with oxygen.

Well, the 3rd necessary element - ultraviolet sterilizer, which will prevent the water from blooming. For the price, count on 20,000 - 30,000 rubles, depending on the power and coverage area.

Other components for your pond depend on the species of fish you plan to raise. Information about each species can be obtained individually from specialists or by attending fish farming training seminars.

2) Water quality requirements for fish.

Water is the main component of success in fish farming. Optimal conditions will allow animals to gain weight and reproduce well.

External impurities such as bleach, methane and hydrogen sulfide must not be allowed to enter.

A. General requirements.

Water for fish should not have strong odors and bright colors in colors.

Farmers often add carbon dioxide to improve the condition of the liquid, but its excess can also harm the microflora. The maximum permissible value of carbon dioxide is 15 mg per 1 liter.

b. Reaction of water to pH.

There are 3 possible states water in the pond – neutral (PH = 7), acidic (PH 7).

The optimal value is within 5 – 7 points. To reduce the acid level in the liquid, the installation of special lime filters is required.

c. Iron level.

When filling a fish pond with water, pay attention to the iron salt content.

When reacting with water, oxidation occurs with high oxygen absorption, which negatively affects the condition of the fish. During acid reactions, a brown coating settles on the gills, interfering with respiratory processes and leading to death.

To prevent such situations, periodically aerate the water.

Plants are necessary for stable bioflora in a pond.

The list of acceptable flora representatives can be found in the table below:

Periodic tests for microbiological and mineral indicators of the state of water will help to track problems in a timely manner. Experts will give advice on how to correct the situation and improve the situation.

Industrial ponds are not particularly beautiful in design. Their main goal is to create the most comfortable conditions for fish farming.

Our tips will help you properly build and design your pond.

9 tips for setting up a fish pond:

Do not allow the water level in the pond to exceed.

The construction of a drainage canal will help keep this factor under control.

Its width can reach 70 cm, and its depth - no higher optimal value in a pond.

The side walls are at a slope of 20-30 degrees and are reinforced with materials of your choice.

The maximum depth of the pit should not exceed 3 meters.

These are optimal conditions for wintering and fish breeding.

About 30% of the area must be allocated to the shallows with a depth of 0.5-1 m.

This will allow the fish to spawn, and will simplify the feeding procedure for you.

Make at least one of the banks flat.

The procedure diversifies the flora and improves general condition pond.

Give priority to building a pond with drainage capabilities.


To simplify the fishing process, make a small depression in the center of the pond below the drain level.

It is in this that the fish remaining after draining the water will be located.

Clean the bottom of silt and other sediment a couple of times a year.

Sludge is a very useful fertilizer for plants and another source of income for your business.

Clean the perimeter of the shore near the pond.

When constructing a pond, the earth from the pit should be used to strengthen and form the banks.

The optimal geometric solution would be an oval model of the pond design.

If you are counting on collecting precipitation, then use a rectangular shape.

These tips will help you avoid common problems with contamination and die-off of farmed fish in your pond.

Be careful about the type of fish you plan to breed. It may be necessary to grow them special conditions, which will entail the purchase of additional equipment.

How to build an eco-pond on your site with your own hands?

Detailed guide with practical example will inspire you and answer this question:

Fish pond– a good source of permanent income. Which construction and propagation method you choose is up to you.

The payback period for a fishing business is on average 3-7 months, depending on sales volumes.

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A small pond can decorate and diversify any suburban area. And it will be even more pleasant if you build such a pond with your own hands. This may seem difficult, but with good instructions there shouldn't be any problems.

Swimming flock decorative fish — best decoration pond

Traditionally, work begins with preparatory activities.

Stage 1. Decide on the location and size

First, we decide on the place where the decorative pond will be located. To do this, we take into account the following points:

• there should be no trees nearby, as their roots can damage the bottom of the structure, and their leaves can clog the water;
• the place should be open and illuminated by the sun for at least 6 hours a day (this will increase the intensity of algae reproduction without infringing on terrestrial plants);
• if possible, it is advisable to leave space for future expansion of the pond;
• The area of ​​the reservoir should not exceed 3% of the entire site.

In a word, than smaller area, the easier it is to carry out construction works. In terms of depth, we divide the reservoir into three levels:

• for plants near the shore;
• shallow water for winter-hardy water lily;
• a recess in which fish will winter (if we breed them).

Note! It is undesirable to make the reservoir too deep - it is enough to make a depth of 1.6-1.8 meters (that is, below the soil freezing level). The burial area should not exceed a fifth of the entire pond.

Stage 2. Deciding on the material

There are quite a lot of materials that can serve as the basis for a decorative pond, but the most popular of them are the options below.

Due to the fact that the construction of a decorative pond from a mold is unlikely to cause any difficulties, we will consider in more detail the second construction option.

Prices for ready-made ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Ready-made ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Stage 3. Prepare consumables

The work will require:

• PVC film;
• roofing felt;
• round stones;
• rope;
• stone slabs;
• shovel;
• sand;
• bricks;
• fine gravel.

Having prepared everything you need, we proceed to the next stage.

Stage 4. Digging a pit

Step 1. First, we create a scale sketch of the future reservoir, indicating the size and width of the curtains (shelves for plants, that is, the upper stage of the structure). This will help avoid possible difficulties not only during construction, but also when planting plants.

We also think about the accent of the composition - a large original stone, for example, a sculpture or just a tree.

Step 2. Using a rope or sand, we outline the expected contour of the reservoir. We make sure to check that all the banks are at the same level, and then use a shovel to cut the turf along the perimeter of the pond.

Step 3. Now let's start the excavation work. First, we dig a pit to the depth of the first level (about 30-40 cm) and mark a line from which we will dig down to the second level (90 cm). Next, we create the deepest level (up to 1.8 meters, if we plan to breed fish), and extract the last portion of soil.

Note! It is recommended to regularly check the level of the banks while digging a pit. If there is no water level of the appropriate length, you can take a simple long board and attach a 50-centimeter device to it.

Step 4. To dig a reservoir, it is advisable to use the services of specialists in this kind of work, accompanied by a small excavator, because this work is quite difficult. But if you decided to do this stage of the work yourself, then you should be prepared for the fact that moisture will accumulate in the pit and you will have to dig in dirty slurry. To remove water, you can use a pump (but only one specifically designed for pumping liquid with solid particles). You can dig another hole nearby to dump water into.

Step 5. Carefully inspect the bottom of the finished pit for branches, sharp stones and anything that could damage the film. We check the horizontality of the banks and, if necessary, level them.

Step 6. We dig a ditch 20 cm deep along the perimeter of the pond to fix the film. Then, using a rope, we measure the dimensions to determine required size films, add 0.5 m on each side.

When conducting earthworks You may be faced with the problem of where to put the soil from the hole. An excellent solution to this problem is to raise the level of the site by evenly distributing the soil over the entire area of ​​the garden. Another option is possible - to use the land to build an alpine slide.

Stage 5. Lay the film

Step 1. Cover the bottom of the pit with a 15-centimeter sand “cushion” and compact it thoroughly.

Step 2. To protect the PVC film from damage, lay a layer of roofing felt (laying is done with an overlap).

Step 3. Cover the bowl of the reservoir with film. We do this freely, with a small margin along the banks. We press the ends of the film with bricks.

Note! To increase the elasticity of the film, it is advisable to lay it on a sunny day - under the influence of temperature, the film will stretch better and easily bend around all the protrusions of the pit.

Step 4. Fill the pond with water, but do not rush to cut off the excess film. It is necessary to wait approximately 24 hours for the PVC coating to take on its final volume. Then we cut the film, place its edges in a previously made trench, tuck it in and fill it with crushed stone.

Note! Often the width of the film is not enough for the whole pond. In such cases, several pieces are connected to each other by soldering.

Prices for different types of pond films

Pond film

Stage 6. Setting up a decorative pond

Step 1. In order to prevent the earth from falling into the bowl of the reservoir, we strengthen the edge. This can be done using:

• stone blocks;
• plastic pipes nailed to pegs.

Lay out the edge natural stone(although you can use brick, tile, and other materials), we decorate it with a group of boulders or one large block.

Step 2. We lay out the bottom of the reservoir with crushed stones or stones. Then we place the pre-prepared plants in plastic containers and arrange them in clumps. It is advisable to use plants that saturate with oxygen (such as hornwort, water lily, swamp grass, etc.). After this, the pond can be completely filled with water.

Note! For correct selection hydrochemical preparations and a pump, it is necessary to measure the volume of the reservoir. To do this, when replacing water, take water meter readings before/after the filling procedure.

Step 3. We can make a small stream for permanent circulation of water - this will prevent the latter from stagnation. To do this, we raise the source slightly above the level of the reservoir and install it to supply water from a bowl. We are planning to decorate the mouth of the stream, for which we can use:

• stones;
• containers made of glass or clay;
• planting.

Step 4. We install at the bottom of the reservoir, stretch the pipes to the source and connect them to the cleaning filter. The latter must be pressure, that is, with reverse cleaning provided, since it is much more efficient than usual.

All, ready! All that remains is to regularly clean it from dirt and use special means, revitalizing the water and preventing the excessive spread of algae, as well as removing plants for the winter.

When building a pond, it is difficult to avoid some mistakes, especially in the compositional plan. For this reason, you need to be aware of common mistakes that gardeners make.

Plant growing zones	Plants
Coastal zone	Conifers, elderberries, ferns, meadowsweet, lilies of the valley, bergenia, etc.
Coastline	Lipstick, fluffy, marigold, speedwell, snake knotweed, forget-me-not, etc.
Plants for decorating shallow waters (up to a depth of 5-20 cm)	Calamus, reed, parasol, cattail, arrowhead, etc.
Deep-sea plants 30-150 cm	Water lily, water lily
Plants to decorate the surface of the water (floating on the surface of the water)	Duckweed, water paint, telores

Finally, having planned self-construction pond, practice first - make, for example, a miniature pond, and only then move on to larger compositions. This will significantly increase the chances of success.

Good luck with your work!

Video - Creating a pond at the dacha