It is difficult to properly organize the cutting off of moisture in a shower room or sauna even in stone buildings where there are no moisture-sensitive building materials, such as logs, beams and compacting packing. But the equipment and finishing for bathrooms are the same for both brick and wooden buildings, so waterproofing the bathroom in wooden house It is produced using a special technique that takes into account the characteristics of building materials and the thermal conductivity of walls.

It is noteworthy that the most complex issue in this case - not how to do it, but which waterproofing scheme to choose, since there are several options for solving this problem, and quite often these solutions are not interchangeable.

This review contains information about what should be taken into account first of all when drawing up a work plan for waterproofing bathrooms with your own hands.

Despite all the specificity of the interior in wooden houses, the arrangement of bathrooms and toilets in them is preferred to be done in the same way as in stone ones. That is, tiles, ceramics, glass, stainless steel and a minimum of materials prone to destruction under high humidity.

At the same time, protection from moisture should be such that it excludes not only direct contact of water on the wooden elements of the log house, but also the likelihood of condensation accumulation on inside walls

This is especially true for wooden houses, since bathrooms are usually located in corner rooms, where colder walls, when in contact with a warm and humid atmosphere, will be guaranteed to be saturated with moisture.

I must say that universal solutions when finishing bathrooms in log or timber houses does not exist. Depending on the condition of the soil, the design of the base and the method exterior finishing walls are being developed individual scheme waterproofing.

In addition, when designing “wet” rooms, exhaust vents must be provided. ventilation ducts with higher performance. But in practice, not all developers agree to such complication, so the entire burden of protection wooden elements log house from excess moisture falls on the waterproofing.

In general cases, it should be assumed that a bathroom in a wooden house must have complete moisture insulation in all directions: floor, walls, ceiling, ventilation.

At the same time, it must be taken into account that for the floor and walls it is used different ways waterproofing.

Floor

Of all the diversity possible designs Bathroom flooring should include a basic option consisting of the following elements:

• primary waterproofing;
• concrete screed as a leveler;
• final waterproofing;
• base for tiles;
• tiles laid on elastic glue;
• epoxy grout joints.

It is possible to modify this design into subtypes: “heavy” and “light”.

The first option is to fill the space between the joists concrete mixture- used for bathrooms on the first floors and in cases where it is planned to install underfloor heating circuits.

The second method involves leveling under the tiles without concrete screed and is used when it is necessary to minimize the load on the floor. This option is in demand, as a rule, for arranging bathrooms on the second floors.

It is important to consider that in wooden houses they always use double waterproofing of the floor!

Walls

Waterproofing walls and ceilings in wet areas wooden houses Most often they are carried out according to the ventilated cladding scheme.

The walls of the log house are covered with an insulating film, on top of which the frame and finishing elements are mounted. The film should be such that it creates a vapor barrier effect.

How to create moisture protection for walls yourself will be discussed in more detail in the following sections. Here we note that the main emphasis in this case is not on blocking the paths of drip moisture, but on creating conditions for normalizing the moisture content of the logs naturally.

Initial stage: primary waterproofing

As mentioned above, in wooden buildings it is strongly recommended to have two levels of waterproofing:

• in the transition zone from the ground (floor) to the floor;
• and as a base for laying the finishing coating.

Since subfloor joists in wooden houses are usually not removed, primary waterproofing in this case is best done using reinforced polyethylene film.

The film is laid overlapping and then sealing the joints with special tape.

The finished base should look something like the picture on the left.

In cases where the logs are installed on subfloor boards, you can use a coating version of waterproofing based on bitumen mastics.

No special tools are needed to complete this stage: cutting the film can be done with an ordinary construction knife or scissors, and a wide brush is enough to apply bitumen mastic.

Please note that the edges of the insulation cover should extend onto the wall, forming a protective tray.

Alignment

The next stage is to create a strong and level base for finishing. Since in most cases ceramic tiles are used as flooring in showers, such a base must be as durable as possible.

Separately, we note that the difference between the “heavy” and “light” flooring options lies in the method of implementing this stage.

The lightweight version involves filling the cavities between the joists with mineral wool insulation and then covering the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

An important point: there must be a ventilation gap (at least 30 mm) between the vapor barrier and the next floor level.

In this case, leveling the base is done by laying OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood on the logs.

In some cases, to give the floor special rigidity, OSB boards or plywood are laid in two layers, with the joints overlapping.

A simpler, and also more often used, is a “heavy” floor, in which a concrete screed acts as a leveler.

Several factors speak in its favor:

• lower price;
• solidity, completely eliminating deflections and shrinkage under the tiles;
• possibility of using coating or liquid waterproofing for showers without tray;
• lower height.

Please note that even with lags, the screed is still made with reinforcement metal mesh. Therefore, the leveling process using a concrete screed is carried out in several stages:

• installation of communications;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• pouring the concrete mixture.

To make the coating smooth and without cracks, we recommend using ready-made mixtures with plasticizers.

When leveling the floor for showers, remember that its height must be at least 20 mm lower than the level of the other floors. This is necessary to minimize the risk of water spilling from the shower into other rooms.

Basic waterproofing

Given that today's bathrooms are often viewed as 100% humidity environments with the potential for a water film to form on the floor covering, the second layer of sealing must be especially reliable.

In this case, the following technologies are used to create it:

• laying of roll insulators;
• multi-layer application of sealing mastics with a brush;
• filling polymer compositions under self-leveling floors;
• polyurea coating.

It is most convenient to seal a concrete screed with mastics. Methods of application may be different, but in all cases it must be taken into account that a sealed pan must be created in the lower part of the room, and additional insulation of “wet” areas must be made on the walls.

If a shower stall is used instead of a bathtub, the wet area is considered to be the entire area of ​​the wall at a distance of 50 cm from its contours.

Please note that all corner joints must be taped with a special tape, on top of which a second layer of mastic is applied.

All technological features This stage is usually specified in the instructions for the corresponding mastic. But it should be emphasized that repeated layers in multilayer coatings are applied perpendicular to the direction of coating of the previous layer.

When considering the waterproofing of floors in bathrooms, one cannot fail to mention self-leveling floors, which are rapidly gaining popularity.

By “self-leveling floor” we mean the following set of components:

• self-leveling leveler (at the same time acting as waterproofing);
• decorative film with a pattern;
• acrylic varnish applied over the drawing (also by pouring method).

If as finishing If there is such a floor, then the second layer of waterproofing, which was discussed above, does not need to be applied.

Wall and ceiling protection

Waterproofing walls in shower rooms is done in several ways. And quite often without tiles, using wood finishing elements.

The simplest, but at the same time least preferable, method of moisture insulation in houses made of timber or logs is to specially impregnate the elements of the log house water-repellent compounds without additional finishing.

This approach is acceptable only when the bathroom is located in the interior of the house. But even in this case, after two or three years, serious problems with inter-crown seals may arise.

The standard solution is to install a frame on which either drywall is attached (under tiles) or lining made of durable wood is mounted.

Direct waterproofing - with the application of insulating mastics to the walls - is carried out only in “wet” areas. Over the rest of the area, the walls are sheathed with a vapor barrier film, and in such a way that there is a ventilation gap between the film and the next level of finishing.

At independent execution During vapor barrier work, the direction of the membrane should always be controlled. Smooth side the film should be directed towards the insulation (or towards the wall, if sheathed interior walls), fleecy - towards the room.

Protection of ceilings is carried out using the same technology as for walls, only instead of a frame under plasterboard or lining, a suspended ceiling structure is installed.

Waterproofing of finishing elements

If wooden elements are used to decorate the walls and ceiling, then you should take special care of their special treatment, since under conditions of sudden changes in humidity and direct contact with dripping moisture, unprotected wood will lose its original appearance within six months.

The best, but at the same time the most in an expensive way To avoid the harmful effects of moisture on the finish, one should use special types of wood (larch, teak, heat-treated pine).

When using cheaper lining, it should be treated with antiseptic compounds and oil impregnations.

Let us emphasize once again that it is not the front, but the back side of the finish that is in greatest danger, therefore Basic structure It must have a ventilation gap for its installation.

The second important factor that directly affects the moisture resistance of wooden finishing elements is proper ventilation premises. If it is not possible to provide the required level of air exchange, then when decorating the walls it is better to give preference to ceramic tiles.

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for the manufacture, repair and modernization of any components included in the design of a log or timber house, including waterproofing floors in baths and bathrooms. Clarify the details of cooperation and call a specialist for development detailed plan work can be done by telephone or other means of communication published in the section.

For obvious reasons, waterproofing wooden buildings is more difficult than brick or reinforced concrete. The instability of wood geometry when humidity changes, the relatively low resistance of natural wood to rot - all this increases the requirements for waterproofing.

But all difficulties can be overcome - even in cases where the work is done with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. At the right technology and due diligence, waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house can reliably protect the floor and walls in conditions of high humidity.

When they talk about waterproofing floors, they sometimes mean technologically different measures. There is waterproofing aimed at protecting the wooden floor from moisture coming from below in the form of evaporation or capillary rise from the ground. And there is water protection against drip water or its vapors arising as a result of normal operation of the premises or a breakdown of the heating or water supply system.

If the bathroom is on the ground floor, then proper waterproofing of the subfloor can not only protect the lower wooden structures from rotting, but also reduce the degree of deformation wooden floors. Which means creating Better conditions for waterproofing carried out from inside the room. Therefore, when building wooden houses, it is necessary to carry out all the required waterproofing measures to protect the floors from moisture from below. These include the following operations.

1. External and internal waterproofing of foundation/basement walls using coating or sticking of waterproofing materials.
2. Filling the underground space with sand, expanded clay or slag to prevent the capillary rise of moisture from the soil into the underground.
3. Treating all wooden floor elements with antiseptics. It is advisable to do this before installing them in order to be able to cover the wood from all sides.
4. Laying a water vapor barrier on the lower floor covering to prevent the penetration of vaporous moisture from below into the ceiling and insulation.

Waterproofing a wooden bathroom floor

The technology for waterproofing wooden floors in a bathroom depends on two factors - the design of the floor and the type of compounds used. The following materials are used to waterproof wood.

• painting and impregnating;
• coating;
• backfill;
• injection molding;
• stick-on

Preparing the floor for waterproofing

Waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom requires careful preparation grounds. The surface is cleaned of dirt and old paint, if necessary, cycle. Putty and seal all irregularities and cracks. Prime the surface in several layers. The joints and interfaces between the floor and the wall are taped with reinforcing tape.

Painting

This is the simplest and cheap way waterproofing the floor, and if only varnishing is done, then the only one that allows you to show the wood texture of the flooring. In all other cases, waterproofing hides the beautiful texture natural wood. On the one hand, this can be considered as a disadvantage, and on the other hand, as an advantage, since it allows the use of not only treated expensive monolithic wood for the floor, but also cheaper board materials in the form of fiberboard, OSB or plywood.

Usually, painting the floor, due to its simplicity, is done by hand. When choosing paint and varnish, you need to pay attention not only to their moisture-proof properties, but also to wear resistance.

These conditions are best met by paints based on alkyd-urethane resins, bitumen and polymer varnishes. Painting is done in several layers.

Painting waterproofing has its advantages, the main ones being simplicity and low cost. But at the same time it is the least durable and reliable way water protection. It lasts for several years, after which the floor needs to be re-applied.

Coating

Coating polymer and bitumen compositions provide much more high level protection of the floor than paints and varnishes. And at the same time, their application is not much more difficult than painting; it can easily be done with your own hands.

Mastics are applied to the prepared surface with a hard brush, spatula (preferably serrated) or a roller with the obligatory approach to the bottom of the walls. To make the waterproofing more reliable, it is recommended to lay a fiberglass reinforcing mesh between the first and second layers. Each applied layer is given time to dry.

Can be used for coating various compositions, but preferably not on cement based. When humidity changes, the tree changes its geometry, and the coating cement compositions may become covered with cracks.

Liquid glassine, consisting of polymers and various additives, is considered a very good protective material for wood. It is specifically designed for waterproofing timber structures, although it can also be used on brick, concrete and stone. Glassine contains various components that make it a multifunctional coating - fungicides, antiseptics, substances that give the material great penetration into the pores of wood. It can also be used as a primer. An additional plus is that the surface treated with liquid glassine can be covered with ceramic tiles.

Fill

Molded waterproofing materials are considered the most reliable of all existing ones. In terms of its composition, it is bitumen or asphalt concrete, which has high fluidity and, when poured, forms a continuous, elastic coating that can compensate for all deformations of the wooden floor. Molding materials are produced in the form of ready-made liquid compositions or powders diluted before use.

Before pouring, perimeter formwork is installed on the prepared floor. First, a small amount of the mixture is poured and leveled as a primer. In total, several layers are required, the recommended total thickness of which is 2-3 cm. Air may remain in the mixture when pouring; it must be released outside by rolling liquid surface needle roller. After hardening, it is laid on the waterproofing flooring- ceramic or polymer tiles, linoleum, laminate, etc.

Backfill

Backfill waterproofing is done with so-called bentonites, which are hydroaluminosilicate, or, more simply, a special clay that swells when water is added, forming a waterproof gel. Concrete concrete has low thermal conductivity, so it can also be used as insulation. The layer thickness is usually 6-7 cm.

In general, hydroaluminosilicate is recommended to be used at an earlier stage of waterproofing; it is advisable to lay it between the joists when installing the floor. But bentonites can also be used for waterproofing done from the inside of the bathroom. In this case, you just need to disassemble the floor down to the joists and lay the material between them.

Pasting

Rolled tapes are used for pasting sheet materials with a base made of polyester or fiberglass - traditional hydroglass insulation or new synthetic materials, such as mostoplast, isoplast, etc. Insulation strips are laid on a prepared base, overlapping each other and extending onto the wall by 10-20 cm. Both self-adhesive bitumen-polymer membranes and materials for fastening which need to be applied to the floor with a layer of glue are used (usually bitumen mastic) up to 1.5 mm thick.

Bonding joints can be done either with or without heating. The first option is more complicated; doing it yourself without practical skill is not recommended.

Apply over sheet waterproofing cement strainer, performing the function of a base for a finishing floor covering - for example, polymer or ceramic tiles. The screed turns out to be floating, since there is no real adhesion to the sheet waterproofing. Therefore, to increase strength, it is recommended to lay a metal or plastic reinforcing mesh in it. To prevent the screed from absorbing water in case of emergency spills, sometimes a coating waterproofing layer is also applied on top of it.

Waterproofing the ceiling and walls of the bathroom

Unlike buildings made of brick or concrete, the walls and ceilings of bathrooms in wooden houses also need reliable waterproofing - not as thorough as the floor, but serious enough to successfully withstand the damp atmosphere of the bathroom. Moreover, waterproofing should not be local, but continuous.

One of the options for designing and waterproofing walls and ceilings is covering them moisture-resistant plasterboard followed by coating with latex mastic. After this, the plasterboard surfaces can be painted or pasted over. vinyl wallpaper or tiles.

Final coating of the waterproofing layer

On my own waterproofing layer not intended to be walked on. For this, it does not have sufficient wear resistance, and it does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it needs to be covered on top with some standard floor covering. The only exceptions are painting and varnishing, which are finishing operations in themselves. Various moisture-resistant materials can be used as flooring for waterproofing - ceramic or vinyl tiles, linoleum, moisture resistant laminate. The main thing is that their composition and the glue with which they are attached are compatible with the waterproofing material.

Houses made of wood are rightfully considered the best option housing: they are environmentally friendly, have a special microclimate and are well ventilated. However, wood fiber has a drawback: it quickly absorbs moisture, retaining it inside for a long time. At the slightest increase in temperature, the material begins to rot, interior spaces It affects mold, which is quite difficult to get rid of, and the air in the rooms is filled with its toxic fumes.

Waterproofing with films

Such consequences can be avoided during construction. To do this, following the technology, you must correctly perform the following processes:

1. Surface preparation;
2. Installation of a vapor barrier film, as well as a ventilation gap;
3. Laying insulation;
4. Film waterproofing installations;
5. Facade cladding.

To protect walls from moisture, a special film is used, which is a three-layer material. The main and central layer is a polyethylene reinforcing mesh, covered on both sides with polyethylene film lamination.

Its direct purpose is high-quality protection of thermal insulation, as well as wooden structures from the destructive effects of moisture. Waterproofing is the second barrier (after the façade covering) that prevents precipitation from entering the structure.

Moisture-proof films are optimally suited for wooden houses, because they:

• safe for health;
• not susceptible to rotting or fungal infection;
• prevent the formation of mold;
• do not emit toxic fumes;
• resistant to UV radiation;
• durable;
• help retain heat.

The cost of such films is relatively low, but they are significantly superior to outdated, ineffective materials.

Installing waterproofing when insulating walls

Homes from natural materials are quite beautiful, so the outer parts of the walls are usually left untouched. However, many owners are increasingly insulating their houses from the street side, decorating the walls with functional finishing materials. Modern technologies, as well as an extensive selection of materials allow you to create high-quality ventilation system such facades, as well as extend the life of houses.

To perform insulation and, in particular, waterproofing of walls wooden house do it yourself, you will need:

• special emulsion to protect against mold and/or mildew;
• aluminum self-adhesive tape for insulation work;
• required amount mineral wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• construction stapler;
• hammer;
• timber for sheathing with a section of 40×100;
• scissors or construction knife;
• nails;
• jute tow;
• thin slats;
• dowels;
• construction level;
• self-tapping screws;
• waterproofing film;
• screwdriver, drill or hammer drill.

Work order:

1. The walls are cleaned and treated with a special emulsion or several compounds, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly. An antiseptic is applied to the bars and slats.
2. Treat cracks, cracks, gaps with tow, compacting the material well.
3. Using slats, a hammer and nails, install the vertical sheathing at 100 mm intervals.
4. Attach the pre-cut vapor barrier sheets to the sheathing with a stapler, laying the material with the glossy side facing you (the porous side is directed towards the wall). Pay attention to creating a gap for ventilation: leave 20 mm holes between the slats. up and down. Carefully seal all joints with special tape.
5. Installation of sheathing. The beams (located with an edge to the surface of the wall) are stuffed with nails or screwed with self-tapping screws, always using a level. The pitch of the lathing depends on the width of the mineral wool slabs - so that it is convenient to lay it. It is important to use solid timber, because the facade frame will be installed on it.
6. Laying thermal insulation in a “checkerboard” pattern with complete exclusion of gaps.
7. Installation waterproofing film. Required condition: overlap of canvases is 100-150 mm. The canvases are carefully stapled to the sheathing. The joints are sealed with special tape.
8. Ventilation gap made using lathing with a 25×50 lath. A protective metal mesh is installed below.
9. Installation finishing material according to the instructions.

Typically, bathroom flooring is laid on concrete base. But in a wooden house, the subfloors in all rooms, including the bathroom, are made of wood, and sometimes wood is also used as a finishing coating. The task of waterproofing wooden floors is particularly acute. They need to be protected from groundwater, if the bathroom is located on the ground floor, and from water spilling on the floor and water vapor with which the air is saturated.

Features of waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom

First of all, not all wood will do. for a finished bathroom floor. It is necessary to choose varieties that are as resistant to rotting as possible. This is larch or teak, the wood of which is rich in essential oils.

Also suitable for the bathroom - bark balsa wood has sealed pores and does not absorb moisture. You can also use thermowood that has undergone special treatment, from which decking boards are made.
For reliable protection a whole range of measures is required to prevent floor moisture in the bathroom of a wooden house:

• If the bathroom is located above the basement, ground floor, it is necessary to waterproof all of it structural elements, from floor to ceiling
• If the bathroom or shower is located directly above the ground, it is necessary to take care of waterproofing the joists and piles on which they rest. It is advisable to pour a layer of expanded clay between them and lay it on top plastic film to protect the floor from groundwater
• To reduce the impact of water vapor on the floor in the bathroom, good ventilation is necessary
• If you are installing a shower room with a drain hole directly in the floor, it is necessary to give it a slope so as not to expose the wood to prolonged contact with water

It is also worth making sure that neighboring rooms are not damaged if the bathroom is flooded. To do this, the floor level in the bathroom is made a few centimeters lower and separated from the corridor by a high threshold.

Preparing to waterproof a wooden floor in a bathroom

Waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom can be done using different technologies– painting with liquid polymer or bitumen-polymer mastic, emulsion, coating with thicker compounds, pasting with roll materials. Regardless of the chosen method, preparatory work is required:

1. The joists and floorboards are inspected - elements that have rotted must be replaced
2. Gaps and cracks are sealed with woodworking mastic
3. The floors are cleared of debris, thoroughly washed and allowed to dry.
   The wood is treated with an antiseptic
4. A primer is applied, which uses a special dry mixture diluted 1:1 with water
5. The floors are drying
6. Corners, joints of walls and floors are covered with waterproof tape extending onto the walls by 5-10 cm, and elastic liners are installed in places where pipes are inserted.

Important! The primer should be selected in the same class as the waterproofing composition, ideally the same brand or recommended by the manufacturer. Some waterproofing compounds, diluted in lower concentrations, can be used as a primer.

Painting waterproofing

Painted waterproofing is the most affordable and easiest to apply, but at the same time the least durable. But in the case of processing wooden floors, this method has additional benefit – liquid composition penetrates deep into the wood, impregnates it and improves its water-repellent characteristics. The best effect is obtained if you stick a roll or sheet of waterproofing on top of the layer of paintable waterproofing and perform several layers in this way.

Painting waterproofing of wooden floors in the bathroom is carried out in 3 stages, with a break of 2-3 days after the first, and 5-6 days after the second, so that the composition has time to saturate the wood. The composition is applied over the entire surface of the floor with a roller, hard to reach places a brush is used. There should be no unpainted surfaces left.

If paint waterproofing is not combined with adhesive, it is advisable to provide additional protection wooden subfloor, laying soft linoleum on top of the waterproofing. You need to use a solid fabric so that there are no seams, cut the linoleum so that its edges extend onto the walls by about 5 cm, and glue them with silicone sealant.

Coating waterproofing

Coating waterproofing is slightly more difficult to apply than painting due to the greater thickness of the composition. It provides a more reliable and durable result, but choosing a suitable composition for waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom is difficult.

Cement-polymer dry mixtures are mainly intended for application to concrete bases and cement-sand screeds. Bitumen, bitumen-rubber mastics with adhesion to wood are intended for roofing works, they cannot be used indoors.
Suitable for woodworking are ready-to-use mixtures based on synthetic latex Knauf Flechendicht, Mira 4400 multicoat.

The manufacturer recommends applying Knauf waterproofing in 3 layers at intervals sufficient for drying (at least 2-3 hours). The same composition, diluted 1:4 with water, can be used as a primer. Mira waterproofing is applied in 2 layers with an interval of 1-2 hours. It is recommended to use it for a rough wooden floor, and lay tiles on top.

If the instructions for the mastic or polymer-cement mixture do not indicate that it can be applied to wooden base, contact the manufacturer's representative to clarify whether such an application is possible.

Roll waterproofing

Roll materials – optimal choice for waterproofing wooden floors. When settling in roll waterproofing, unlike coating and painting, there is no need to maintain an interval between laying layers. Therefore, the entire scope of work can be completed within one day.

In the bathroom it is better to install waterproofing using the cold gluing method., attaching roll or sheet materials to the base using mastic, which does not require heating. Fusing waterproofing using a hair dryer is a more complex technology, which is more convenient to use in an open space, for example, during roofing work, and the use of a gas burner when working on wood is unacceptable.

To perform this, the prepared, leveled, cleaned and primed base is covered with a layer of mastic 1.5 cm thick, and classic roofing felt or its modern analogues based on fiberglass or fiberglass are laid on it.

The material is rolled with a roller so that it adheres properly to the base. You can also use self-adhesive ones in the bathroom. waterproofing membranes. Remove from the bottom before installation protective film, additional gluing with mastic is necessary only in places of overlap.

Roll or sheet materials are laid in several layers, with an overlap of 10-15 cm and an overlap of 20 cm on the walls. It is necessary to ensure that the joints of the panels do not fall at the junction of the walls and floor and do not end up in the corners. After laying all layers is completed, the edges are treated with polymer putty.

Video

Methods for waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom

Coating waterproofing of floors made of OSB panels using Knauf Flechendicht composition

Bottom line

The wooden base of the bathroom floor can be protected from moisture by coating, painting or adhesive waterproofing. Less commonly, cast waterproofing is performed using liquid polymer compounds. You need to select materials for interior work, which have good adhesion to wood, and to improve it use a primer or primer.

When choosing a waterproofing method, you need to consider what finishing coat will be placed in the bathroom. Thus, tile adhesive does not adhere to a bitumen or rubber base, and such waterproofing will have to be covered with a layer of screed. Linoleum can be combined with any waterproofing. If the finishing coating is made of moisture-resistant wood, it must be additionally treated with impregnation, varnished and the seams between boards and slabs must be carefully sealed.

Waterproofing is a hidden process, the results of which are hidden under the finishing materials of the bathroom, so many home owners are not aware of its existence and beneficial properties.

But as practice shows building construction and materials that are constantly in contact with moisture become unusable over time, especially for wooden structures. That’s what we’ll talk about today - in this article we’ll look at how to waterproof a bathroom in a wooden house.

What do you need to know?

A wooden building, due to the characteristics of the material from which it is made, requires more careful care than, for example, a stone building.

Wood is a living material; if it gets wet, it swells. high temperature– dries out, decreasing in volume; due to these properties, the structure of the building is constantly, as it were, in motion, which has a detrimental effect on the integrity of the structure.

To avoid this, high-quality waterproofing is required in rooms with high humidity, which include the bathroom.

Waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house comes in two types:

What is the difference between waterproofing a high-rise building and a wooden house?

When doing renovations in an apartment in a multi-storey building with your own hands, and installing waterproofing in the bathroom, you will probably think that in wooden houses things should be completely different.

But this is not true except for some points. Due to the fact that waterproofing is primarily a waterproof layer. It doesn’t really matter what you lay it on - concrete or wood.

It is only necessary to treat the wood with special water-repellent compounds, such as varnish or stain, if you apply wet polymer-cement waterproofing. Bituminous mastic has good adhesion and easily adheres to wooden structures, well, then the usual is performed cement-sand screed and ceramic tiles are glued.

Also, in wooden houses, attention should be paid not only to the floors and walls, but also to the ceilings.

If you have an underground space under the bathroom, then it is imperative to waterproof it too. This is usually done using rolled welded or pasted materials.

Materials and tools needed for work

So, you are about to waterproof your house with your own hands. Let's first look at the tool you will need for this task:

• roller;
• wide brush;
• putty knife;
• construction knife;
• yardstick;
• trowel and rule (when using polymer-cement compositions)
• gas-flame burner with a propane cylinder (when using fused rolled materials).

Now it’s time to look in more detail at the materials needed to waterproof a bathroom in a wooden house.

Step-by-step instructions: how to make waterproofing

Since waterproofing in a bathroom in a wooden house will be done both on the floor and on the walls, we will consider each process separately.

Before starting work, the floor must be prepared by removing all debris and dust. Then, if it is roll waterproofing, the sheets should be cut to length with a margin for overlap and laid on a floor previously primed with mastic.

If you use roofing felt, the seams need to be heated gas burner. If you use coating waterproofing, then everything is simpler; apply the composition to the floor with a brush or roller, wait until it dries and you can begin the following work:

Waterproofing scheme for a wooden bathroom

Particular attention should be paid to communications passing through ceilings. In these places, the pipes must be wrapped with a special tape, after which they should be well filled. bitumen mastic:

Waterproofing walls is performed in different ways, depending on the materials from which it is made. If round timber was used, then rational decision There will be a plasterboard system installed, with the installation of film waterproofing between the wall structures.

If timber was used or OSB boards, then it will be easiest to carry out coating waterproofing with bitumen mastic; before applying it, you should thoroughly treat all cracks and chips, then apply a layer of waterproofing, and then a second layer perpendicular to the first:

What mistakes are most often made during such work?

A common mistake when installing waterproofing with your own hands is an unprepared surface: due to voids or some kind of contamination, the waterproofing material may poorly adhere to the surface and subsequently moisture will begin to enter there and destroy the material.

They also can’t stand it technological process, for example, they begin to load the waterproofing layer without waiting for it completely dry, which also leads to its damage.

In a word, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to turn to professionals. For your information, we provide the following approximate prices for their services. The installation of roll waterproofing will cost you from 300 rubles per 1 sq.m., the price of coating ranges from 320 rubles. up to 360 rubles, wrapping will cost from 330 rubles to 380 rubles. for 1 sq.m.

To summarize, it can be noted that by waterproofing the bathroom of a wooden house with your own hands, you can safely forget about the presence of any threats associated with flooding of the lower floors or damage to expensive materials. This means comfort and tranquility in your home are guaranteed.