Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
Now we have reached the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I made the ship by eye and didn’t pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn’t write them down exactly, but there are some. I won't torture you nautical terms because I myself am not good at them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yard, keel. This is where we will begin our work with the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer, place it on some kind of plywood or board, and coat it well with glue. We secure it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl when drying. Let's start with the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back part is 8 cm. If the height dimensions are larger than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After cutting out the keel, we sand it a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a textured coating, we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread from two, as you prefer. While everything is drying, we mark the ribs of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We place the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and sand it with sandpaper packed onto a block.
After we have plywooded the keel, we will make the deck and will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. Deck length 45 cm, width 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. From the back we measure 11 cm, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we're starting to have trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside then the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I only realized when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We place the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front and also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this:
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to support the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and install the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. Let's make the next edge. It will be installed at the mark where the front part of the deck begins to curve.
The rib width is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and also 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We place the future rib on the rectangle, combining upper part and right top corner. Draw along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic rib configuration
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After this we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true for the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fasten and glue the deck.
When this is all done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything up and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and back of the ship. After this, we cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We begin the most labor-intensive work: plywood the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width is 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and minor irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
of the ship one to one to the bow and to the rear of the ship with an overlap. Pre-apply fresh glue to the gluing area. This is what we got. Now let's clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the curve and protrudes 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the curve is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the curve and is 16.6 cm, protruding by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm. Additional decks have been made; now we will glue them in the same order (you can also glue them using an iron).
First we glue the front part of the deck. Then we plywood it. After this, we ply the main deck before starting to round and install the back of the additional deck. Next, glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered since it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded and we move on to making the sides of the rear part of the model. We cut two strips 4 cm wide. You determine the length yourself. Start from the point of curvature. The rear part of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make slits on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and apply glue. Once the glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer to width and glue them with an iron, simultaneously bending them along the contour of the deck. We made the side boards, but since they need to be turned out, we carefully sharpen them at an angle, trying them on the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the side will not be difficult for you. Next we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows what she looks like. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A small explanation about the photo. Lateral
the platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we have made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and adjusted, we glue them to the deck and after that we glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we plywooded it. Next we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be unfolded, but at a right angle. After the last deck has been made, glued and veneered, we make
finishing sides. With the rear deck superstructure completed, we move on to the bow of the model. We also make front sides with
at an angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The sides were made, installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of the insert with windows and the upper platform. Dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part 12 cm. Protrudes 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made the platform and the insert with the windows, we glue them. Then we ply the area. Next we make the sides of the central part of the model. We cut 2 strips, ply them on the inside, mark them
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. We're done with the stairs, let's move on to the railings. 4 mm stripe mode. We plywood them on three sides, glue them at a distance of 1 mm from the edge, sawing them on a mustache. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode, but we only veneer the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the others. This is to make it easier to mark.
We drilled a hole, tried it on the pilaster, and marked the remaining points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. We cut off the excess, clean it and
plywood. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we ply the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Let's move on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole to install a flagpole made from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we begin to sea it. We seam those parts that you consider necessary. We're done with the stain. Let's do 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails we will need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle making and installing sails.

For model making enthusiasts, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most sought after materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the Internet, and therefore it is with plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with modeling various ships.

Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant amount of knowledge and a certain skill. In this article we will only talk about the most basic techniques, and you will hone further skills yourself.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small model of a ship, then you will need the following materials:

• Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and non-fibrous. Wood blanks must be smooth, without knots or damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck) and for fine detailing.
• Plywood is perhaps the most popular material. For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since these are the types of wood that provide the minimum number of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of 0.8 to 2 mm.

Note! Sheets of beech veneer of thin thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much easier.

• Veneer – thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting surfaces from inexpensive material.
• Fastening elements - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper nails.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made from metal casting. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparing for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

• First we need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with shipbuilding art, we recommend downloading drawings of a ship made from plywood online: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even to a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a ship from ready-made parts. Beginners will be interested in such kits (although the price of most of them is quite significant), but it is still better to master the technology from the basics.

• After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything necessary is available. In principle, if something is missing, you can buy more a little later, because building a ship (even a miniature one) is not a quick task!

• After printing the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
• We transfer the templates to .

Cutting out and assembling parts

You can cut blanks using either a manual or an electric jigsaw.

The latter costs more, but with it you have less trouble when cutting small parts:

• IN plywood sheet We make a starting hole into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
• We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
• We process the sawn workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. This way we will spend significantly less time, and the work will move faster.

When everything is ready, we begin assembling our ship.

• First, we put transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - the keel. At the bottom of each frame there is usually a groove for fastening to the plywood keel.
• For connection you can use standard glue, or maybe special adhesive mixtures, intended for ship modeling.
• We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. U simple models the deck is a single sheet of plywood, and for complex ones it can be multi-level.
• After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case we will be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
• For bending, you can heat and humidify. After this, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The body can be covered with a continuous sheet for painting. But to imitate plank cladding, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

• We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave it to dry.

Final finishing

By by and large, this is where carpentry ends and art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

• Make from thin plywood and secure deck superstructures.

• Extend the sides so that they protrude above the plane of the deck.
• Cover the surface of the deck with wooden veneer or outline it with an awl, imitating plank cladding.
• Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
• Secure the masts with all additional devices (the so-called spar), install the sails and stretch this entire structure using rigging threads.

Finally, all plywood parts must be treated with stain and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Conclusion

Almost anyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - just patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement complex drawing with many small details, you will have to work hard. That's why we recommend starting with the simplest models and gradually increasing your skill!

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

You can create a model of an antique ship yourself without buying finished design for assembly. To achieve a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

Materials

To make a historical ship with your own hands, prepare:

• plywood or balsa wood;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• wood glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood was used as a base, but balsa wood. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, which requires a saw to cut it, balsa wood Everything was done with a simple sharp knife. Thin stripes For work, you can also take them from any material, they just have to bend well. Wood glue should not be replaced with hot glue, much less super glue.

Step 1. On paper you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may undergo slight changes as you work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in old style, and not repeat exact copy specific vessel.

Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was spent making the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, using the existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that when attaching the ribs, they are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees.

Step 4. Once the skeleton is ready, start decorating its sides. To do this, glue a long strip along the center line of the side part. Continue to focus on it when you glue the rest. It is better to glue the slats in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Additionally secure the slats using clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue has completely dried. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the slats in the next area.

Step 5. Work out all the places where gaps form between the slats epoxy resin. When ready, coat all parts of the ship with wood varnish.

Step 6. After the main work, move on to finishing. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue slats over areas with obvious defects to hide them. You can make it from rattan horizontal line, emphasizing the smooth shape of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7. Masts must be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing lattice from small rods and assemble the entire structure.

Step 8. Make a template for the ship's deck from paper and, based on it, build a deck part from wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Use plywood to make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9. Glue the wooden strips at the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with wood glue. Don't forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.

The element of water has always attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up before you is the most amazing thing that can happen in life. In order to set sail, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Even if it is not as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.

Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite thing that they don’t mind devoting free time. Some people have a collection of stamps, some are into photography, some like to cook, knit, draw,... and so on, you can’t list everything.
One of my favorite things, or, more simply put, hobbies, is. This news is dedicated to them.

After this, you can leave the “skeleton” to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. Of course, you can just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough...

After this, the decks (or deck, if there is only one) are placed in their proper place and the first hull begins. Typically, a ship model is covered twice - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood.
One by one, the planks are attached to the “skeleton” using glue and small nails, which will be removed when the glue dries.

The work is delicate, the planks do not always bend easily and can break.

After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!

Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand them properly.

Then you can proceed to the front cladding. You need to be extremely careful with it - the planks are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.

The technology is the same - glue and nails.

You can imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, is 1300 mm long...)...

I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read it is welcome!

And this is the model, probably, of the famous ship in the world - “Santa Maria” (in the process of assembly, of course).

After the second skin is finished and sanded, everything can be varnished. And then we’ll take care of the deck - ladders, boats, hatches,...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic at all.

Exterior detailing is no less important.
Well, after the hull is completed, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.

Each knot is tied by hand (the same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply countless!
The sails must be pre-stitched. At Santa Maria they still needed to be painted.

If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination.
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.

And only when the very last knot is tied can the ship be considered ready!
You can proudly put it in the most visible place and with an enthusiastic “Wow!” guests, looking down, say “Yes, I did it myself...”.

Wooden ships and sailboats

For many, prefabricated ship models are something more than an ordinary hobby and interesting activity. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon, each ship personifies all the power and splendor of the sea.
Tabletop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities; it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become worthy decoration any room, be it a study or a home living room.

To work on each ship model you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But the result of painstaking work is an assembled model, which will become a well-deserved source of your pride.

Wooden ship models for beginners

CONSTRUCTO
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ARTESANIA LATINA
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Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools
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