Plasterboard ceiling systems give considerable room for creative imagination to maneuver. Designs equipped with internal lighting are especially popular.

general information

A backlit plasterboard ceiling is a very popular design solution. It is distinguished by external beauty and practicality. For the arrangement of the electrical part, you can use a variety of combinations of different lighting fixtures. As a result, it is possible not only to change the intensity of the luminous flux, but also to influence the spatial perception of the room.

Strengths of using a backlit false ceiling:

• Creation of an absolutely flat base on the surface of the base without the use of time-consuming screed and plaster.
• Significant simplification of the procedure for preparing the rough base. It is allowed that the previous finish, drops, cracks, etc. remain on it.
• The possibility of convenient camouflage under the suspended canvas of various communications - cables, wires, pipes, ventilation ducts, etc.
• High decorative possibilities. This is especially true for the creation of a multi-level suspended ceiling from plasterboard with lighting.

The designs also have disadvantages:

• Understatement of the total height of the room by about 10 cm due to the frame. This applies to both stretch and backlit plasterboard ceilings.
• The complexity of the procedure. In any case, you will need an assistant and some experience in arranging electrical systems. If you install and connect lighting fixtures incorrectly, this can have very sad consequences. The resulting short circuit is sometimes a fire hazard.

When developing a plan for installing a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, it is recommended to pay special attention to the following important points:

1. Using multiple lighting zones in the room. As doctors say, for eye health, it is better to use several low-power lamps than one bright lamp.
2. A drawing of the location of spotlights is developed in the most careful way. In the kitchen, the work surface and the eating area need separate lighting. In the bedroom, contour lighting around the bed has proven itself well. Additional lighting for the cabinet, bookshelves and desk is often used. Lighting zoning is also used in the hallway: a hanger, mirrors and the perimeter of the ceiling are equipped with spotlights.
3. Light imitation of sun glare, aurora borealis and starry sky has excellent decorative characteristics.
4. It is necessary to position the lighting devices in such a way that they do not blind the eyes.
5. Thanks to the correct placement of the backlight, you can correct the proportions of the room. If you direct the light to the walls, there will be an effect of visual expansion of the space.
6. Each group of luminaires in different functional areas of the room needs an autonomous switch.
7. It is advisable to decorate small rooms with multi-level plasterboard ceilings with LED lighting.
8. Before making a backlit plasterboard ceiling, a detailed diagram of the future design is being developed. It contains information about all sizes, types and locations of fixtures.

What are the lamps

In order to make a backlit ceiling, as a rule, the following types of lamps are used:

• Point... With their help, night illumination, emergency lighting, zoning of premises, illumination of the working area, etc. are set up. This type of lighting belongs to the budget, and is suitable for lighting plasterboard ceilings of any configuration. Such schemes are very simple to implement: as a rule, such work is performed on their own, without the involvement of a professional electrician. To achieve the final aesthetics of the finished structure, it is necessary to arrange the holes in the plasterboard as accurately as possible, strictly according to the diameter of the lamp. Spotlights most often play a supporting role in combination with basic lighting.
• Chandelier (ordinary or LED)... Products of this type are presented in a significant variety of shapes and colors. No replacement wiring is required to install them. In combination with suspended plasterboard systems, surface-mounted and pendant lights are not always the best solution. The fact is that their use further exacerbates the effect of the lost height of the room.

• Daylight... They are mainly mounted in non-residential premises. They are distinguished by their low cost and ease of installation. They consume little electrical energy. The service life of fluorescent lamps, in the presence of a stable voltage, is quite long.
• Fiber optic... These lamps are an innovative development that allows you to create the effect of a starry sky. Installation of fiber optic luminaires is expensive and laborious. These systems look best in rooms with high ceilings.
• LED strips... An excellent option for arranging multi-level ceiling systems. These inexpensive lighting fixtures have a number of strengths. They are able to create uniform diffused illumination, replacing a conventional 200 W lamp. It is very easy to install the tape: one of its sides is specially equipped with a sticky base. The LED strip in the plasterboard ceiling demonstrates high energy efficiency and durability.

How to choose an LED strip

Light-emitting diode (LED) tape is a narrow flexible strip no more than 9 mm wide. Conductive tracks, diodes and resistors are applied on top of the product.

When choosing a suitable option for installing a plasterboard ceiling with diode lighting, it is recommended to pay attention to the following points:

1. Diode type. The most common diodes are SMD3528 and SMD5050. The first variety (3528) always gives one lighting color, the second can be white or multi-colored. The SMD5050 diode is more expensive and consists of three crystals, which ensures its durability. SMD3528 tapes last less, due to the gradual burnout of the phosphor. The tint of the light turns blue because of this.
2. The frequency of concentration of LEDs on the surface of the tape. Most often, there are bands with a frequency of 30,60,120 bulbs per 1 running meter. As the density increases, the brightness of the lighting increases. To equip a plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the perimeter, the density of the SMD3528 tape should be at the level of 30 or 60 diodes. If the goal is to illuminate a stretch glossy ceiling or partial illumination of a room, it is recommended to use SMD5050 tape with a density of 60 diodes or more.
3. Shades. To achieve multi-colored illumination, it is necessary to purchase 5050 strips, the base of which contains blue, red and green diodes.
4. Degree of protection. The belts can be equipped with additional protection against moisture. Such products are torn by special silicone insulation, which effectively resists flooding from above.
5. Equipment. LED strips must be completed with a power supply. As an option, SMD5050 belts can contain a remote control system and a controller. You also need to choose skirting boards for the LED strip that will best fit the ceiling.

What are the backlit plasterboard ceilings

Plasterboard ceiling with LED strip can be equipped in an open and closed way. In the first case, much less work will be required: it is enough to arrange neat holes in the right places of the slab and mount lamps there. The main thing is to adhere to the recommendations for the weight of the lighting devices used: the total indicator should not exceed 10 kg. This is due to the weakness of the frame structure and sheathing sheets.

How to make a backlit plasterboard ceiling

To equip a plasterboard ceiling with hidden LED strip lighting, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Plasterboard boards.
• Components for the construction of the frame - guides, wall profile, ceiling direct suspensions.
• Mountings. Dowels, screws, etc.
• Fastening mesh for additional reinforcement of the butt joints.
• Metal scissors, pliers, screwdriver, knife, screwdriver and hammer drill.
• Simple pencil, building level, twine.
• A set of spatulas and putty.
• LED strip kit. In addition to the luminaire itself, there is a power supply unit, wiring with a cross section of at least 0.75 mm, insulating materials.

Installation of the frame of the upper level of the suspended ceiling with illumination is carried out in the following sequence of operations:

1. An indent of 10 cm is made from the floor slab and a solid line is struck along the perimeter of the room to be finished.
2. The starting profile is screwed along the broken line. It acts as a guide for the main profile, which is fixed to the ceiling using hangers. The mounting step is about 40 cm.
3. The elements of the main profile are reinforced with additional lintels, which are cut from the same profile. This makes the frame more rigid.
4. The finished structure is sewn up with plasterboard plates using self-tapping screws.

After that, they move on to arranging the box for lighting:

1. The base surface is equipped with a drawing of the lower level configurations. The applied markings act as a guideline for the installation of the guide profile. The shelves of the ceiling element should be directed downwards, and the shelves of the wall element should be directed towards the opposite wall. The profile of the main frame is used to fix the ceiling rail.
2. Suspension racks are made from the main profile. When cutting blanks, the height of the ceiling of the lower level is taken as a reference point.
3. One of the sides of the suspension is equipped with an incision (4-5 cm), followed by bending the back wall inward. When calculating the number of suspensions, the dimensions of the ceiling are taken into account. Installation step - 1 suspension / 50-60 cm.
4. The finished elements are mounted inside the guide profile with the whole end. Self-tapping screws are used for fixing.
5. The ceiling profile also serves as a material for the manufacture of lintels, the length of which corresponds to the length of the lower part of the box. The number of such elements must match the number of suspension posts.
6. The workpieces are immersed inside the wall guide profile, fixing them on self-tapping screws. When joining the opposite edge of the workpiece with the hanger, an angle of 90 degrees must be observed.
7. The result is a backlit suspended ceiling niche skeleton with a protruding profile. All protruding parts are decorated with plugs from the same ceiling profile. On top of the finished base, plasterboard sheets will subsequently be installed.

Installation of plasterboard sheathing

Prepared in advance narrow strips of drywall are installed as follows:

• Plasterboard elements are screwed along the niche shelves.
• Next, the vertical sections of the structure are sheathed: the sheets are installed here on suspension racks and ceiling rails.
• In the next step, the horizontal area of ​​the niche is sewn up.
• At the end of the procedure, the end sections of the box are made out with plasterboard strips, inside which the backlight will be placed. The upper and lower levels must be separated by at least 50 mm.

Electrical connection

The list of operations on how to make a backlight in a plasterboard ceiling:

1. There are marks on the LED strip where cutting can be done.
2. Switching of individual pieces of tape is carried out using a soldering iron or special LED connectors.
3. When choosing a power supply, it is recommended to provide a power reserve of 20-30%.
4. Installation on metal parts of the frame requires the mandatory use of insulating pads. Before starting installation work, the system must be de-energized.
5. When installing a multicolor diode, it is important not to mix up the polarity: the blue and black wires are a minus, and the red is a plus.
6. Before the final fixation of the tape, it must be tested for operability.
7. Long sections of tape are switched differently when connected in series. As practice shows, the parallel connection of segments from 5 m in length demonstrates greater safety. For this, wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm are used. In this case, the power supply must be taken more powerful than usual.

Finishing

The finished plasterboard structure is impregnated with a primer and putty, paying special attention to the joints. After drying, sanding and painting are carried out. Instead of paint, you can use wallpaper.

Various structures are made of drywall, including ceilings. This material gives unlimited possibilities in terms of creating all kinds of surfaces, shapes, niches and false partitions. One of these original designs is a floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting. The first glance at the ceiling surface gives the impression that the ceiling is simply suspended in the air, not attached to the walls. We will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of such structures, their types and installation sequence.

Types of soaring ceilings

The soaring plasterboard ceiling with lighting in the photo looks beautiful and original. It seems that the coating is not rigidly fixed, but as if suspended above the floor. In fact, this effect is achieved due to the fact that the drywall sheet is mounted on a hidden frame so that there is a shelf around the perimeter for installing LED lighting.

It is the hidden illumination of the ceiling and the special design of the tier that create the effect of soaring. The LED strip along the perimeter of the suspension system casts light onto the upper level, giving the impression that the ceiling is not rigidly fixed.

There are several types of floating ceiling coverings:

1. The easiest to manufacture single-level soaring ceilings. LED lighting is placed around the perimeter of the room in a niche behind the suspension system.
2. Two-level pavements consist of a main pavement plane and a bottom tier, which can have any shape. The backlight is installed along the perimeter of the lower level.
3. Multilevel systems are the most difficult to implement. There may be different options for installing the backlight and the main light sources.

Important! The floating effect of the suspended cover cannot be achieved without the use of backlighting.

Varieties of backlights

GKL ceiling lighting can be open and hidden:

• in the first case, conventional built-in lighting devices are used, which are installed in the ceiling tiers;
• hidden illumination of the plasterboard ceiling is performed in the shelf of one of the tiers, where the LED strip is placed (the strip itself is not visible, but the light from it freely falls to the upper level of the ceiling thanks to the open shelf).

The following lighting devices are used for the backlight device:

1. LED Strip Light differs in a variety of colors and ease of installation. There are single-color and multi-color ribbons. The latter require additional installation of an RGB controller and the purchase of a remote control.
2. Neon tubes are practically not used in residential premises, because they emit a characteristic noise during operation.
3. Fiber optic filaments are economical and have an impressive service life. With their help, various effects are created on the ceiling, for example, the "starry sky".

Also, according to its functional purpose, the ceiling lighting can be used as a source of the main lighting in the room. This option is more suitable for bedrooms where you do not need to make bright light.

Zone lighting helps to divide the room into separate functional areas. It is usually installed in a lowered tier above the dining or sleeping area, bar counter, work area in the kitchen, or divides the living room into two parts.

Decorative lighting creates a certain mood in the room. It should not be very bright, it is designed to highlight certain elements on the ceiling, emphasize the outlines of tiers or create a floating effect.

Advantages and disadvantages of soaring ceilings

A plasterboard suspended ceiling has the following advantages:

1. When the backlight is turned on, the room appears visually taller and more spacious.
2. When installing a ceiling, you can embody a variety of design fantasies.
3. By installing LED lighting, you save on energy costs.
4. A soaring plasterboard ceiling with backlighting can be done with your own hands. It is important to follow the instructions exactly, have minimal construction skills.
5. Such designs and special lighting create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the room.
6. It is convenient to hide the unevenness of the base surface, protruding building structures and engineering communications behind suspended ceilings.
7. In addition to LED lighting, you can install built-in lamps or hanging lighting in suspension systems.

The disadvantages of such ceilings include some installation difficulties that beginners may have. In addition, the suspended ceiling steals the height of the room a little, so it is not suitable for low apartments. For self-installation of an LED strip, you need to have certain knowledge and skills.

Installation sequence

Before the construction of the structure, you need to make a drawing on a scale, on which all the levels, the frame diagram, the installation locations of the lamps and fasteners, as well as the sections and heights of the levels will be drawn.

In principle, the base surface does not need any special preparation, since it will be hidden behind the suspended structure. But if the old ceiling covering is fragile, then it must be removed. Old paint and wallpaper are cleaned off with a spatula, whitewash is washed off, and flimsy plaster is knocked down with improvised tools.

After that, all the cracks and cracks in the ceiling are repaired. If this surface will be used as the upper tier of a two-level coating, then it is putty, polished and primed. After that, the ceiling is ready for painting and installing the frame.

Materials and tools

To make a soaring plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, stock up on the following materials:

• ceiling and guide profiles;
• ceiling plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• dowels and screws;
• single-level crab connectors;
• construction tape;
• putty;
• painting net;
• dowel-nails;
• LED Strip Light;
• perforated hangers;
• corner fasteners;
• primer;
• insulating tape;
• wires.

You will also need the following tools:

• tape measure, pencil;
• construction and laser level;
• screwdriver and hammer drill;
• ladder;
• chopping cord;
• construction knife;
• spatulas;
• containers for different mixtures;
• scissors for metal;
• hammer;
• brushes and rollers.

Separately, it is worth considering the issue of choosing a lighting device. For soaring structures made of gypsum board, you can use lamps with incandescent lamps, halogen devices or LED strips. In principle, there are no restrictions on the power of the luminaires. It is important to lay the wiring in insulating ducts.

Room layout

First you need to mark the walls and ceiling of the room. Since the suspended structure will consist of two tiers, you need to determine the height of each of them.

After that, we proceed to the markup:

1. Using a laser level, we measure the height of all corners in the room, find the lowest of them. From this corner downwards we measure the height of each level. We will have two points.
2. Using the same laser level, we transfer the obtained points to the other corners in the room. Using a chopping line, connect all the points with horizontal lines.
3. On the base ceiling, we draw lines along which we will attach the longitudinal profiles of the frame. We draw them in increments of 40 or 60 cm, which is a multiple of the width of a drywall sheet equal to 120 cm. A reinforced frame with a slat pitch of 40 cm is made for heavy structures with several levels.
4. Along the lines on the ceiling, we put points in increments of 60 cm. Perforated suspensions will be attached in these places.
5. On the base surface we draw the outlines of the lower tier. If you need to make a smooth line, then it is more convenient to draw it from several mating circles. We tie their radii to anchor points (corners of the room or its center).

Assembling the frame

We begin to make a plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the perimeter with the assembly of the frame.

We work in the following order:

• According to the markings on the walls of the room, we fix the guide profiles. If the lower tier is located along the walls of the room, then the NP profile for it is also attached to the walls. If it is located in the center of the room, it will be constructed after the installation of the upper level frame. We attach the profiles to dowels and self-tapping screws, which we install with a step of 30 cm.
• Next, we fix perforated hangers on the base ceiling. To fix each supporting element, we use a pair of dowel-nails.
• Then we cut the ceiling profiles according to the dimensions of the room, insert the ends into the groove of the guide elements on the wall. In the central part of the rail, we fasten it with short self-tapping screws to the perforated hangers. Using the same self-tapping screws, we fasten the longitudinal strips to the NP profiles.

Similarly, we construct the frame of the lower level, but along the line of the tiers difference when assembling the frame, we release longitudinal profiles to form a shelf for hidden lighting. We put on the NP rail on the open end of the PP profiles. If you need to make the curvilinear outlines of the lower level, then we cut the shelves of the NP rail with an equal step and then bend the bar.

Important! We lay the wiring for the LED strip and other lamps at the stage of assembling the supporting frame.

Fastening drywall

First, we sheathe the upper level of the ceiling. We fasten drywall sheets from the corner of the room. Each sheet should be fixed on 3 or 4 longitudinal rails of the frame. The joint of adjacent gypsum boards must be exactly in the middle of the lath.

Important! Be sure to offset the end joint of the sheets in adjacent rows so that the 4 corners of the slabs do not converge at one point.

We screw the fasteners around the perimeter of the sheet with a step of 15 cm, and from the edge we place them at a distance of no more than 2.5 cm. The self-tapping screws in the central part of the sheet can be screwed in with a step of 25 cm. We recessed the caps of the fasteners into the body of the material to a depth of 1 mm. Cut the slab if necessary. In the place of the cut, you need to make a chamfer 1/3 of the thickness of the material at 45 degrees. It is needed to facilitate the filling of seams and the laying of the reinforcing tape.

We sew the second level in the same way. But along its perimeter we make an open shelf. The end of the shelf is sheathed with a strip of gypsum sheet to a height of 3-4 cm.

If the edge of the lower tier is curved, then the GCR strip can be bent in two ways:

• make cuts on one side of the material by a third of the thickness with an equal step, then bend the strip;
• walk along the reverse side of the gypsum board with a roller with needles, moisten the surface with water, after soaking the strip bends easily.

After sheathing the entire frame, carefully putty the seams using the serpyanka reinforcing tape. We put it in a layer of putty mortar. You also need to putty the grooves from the screws. After the putty has dried, we grind and prime the surface. If the structure is painted, then the entire ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard is putty with a finishing mixture. When it dries, we grind it again, soak it twice with a primer.

Backlight mounting

Before installation, the LED strip is cut or soldered to obtain the backlight of the desired length. You can cut the tape only using special markings in the form of a dotted line and scissors. Observe the polarity when soldering individual pieces.

After that, the prepared tape is connected by spreading it out on the floor to check its functionality. Then the LED lights are placed in a shelf on the ceiling. To do this, remove the paper strip from the adhesive coating on the back of the LED strip. The backlight is glued to the base, laid on a shelf made of gypsum board. The tape is connected to the power supply and RGB controller.

Finishing

Painting with interior paints is more often used as a finishing finish for a floating ceiling. Also, ceiling structures can be pasted over with wallpaper or self-adhesive film. Please note that light glossy surfaces reflect the light from the backlight better, make the room visually taller and more spacious.

If it is decided to use painting as a finish, then the ceiling in a room with normal humidity can be painted with water-based paint. If such structures are mounted in the kitchen or in a place with fluctuations in humidity, then it is better to choose silicone or acrylic paint.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling combines beauty and functionality, so it's definitely worth spending time studying the technology of its construction. Of course, the process of installing such a ceiling cannot be called simple, but nevertheless, even a beginner can cope with such a task - of course, if this newbie approaches the process responsibly and starts work by studying the theory.

What do you need to work?

Materials (edit)

A plasterboard suspended ceiling with built-in lamps or LED strip located along the perimeter of the ceiling is a fairly universal solution. On the one hand, with such a structure, we ensure the perfect leveling of the ceiling, regardless of the initial state of the ceiling slab or other load-bearing surface. On the other hand, we get the opportunity to install adjustable lighting over a large area, completely (or almost completely) getting rid of shaded areas.

The obvious advantage of this technology is the rather high speed of the ceiling construction - unlike plastering, we do not have to wait a week or more for the applied solution to dry.

For the installation of a false ceiling, we will need:

1. Galvanized profile for the frame (starting and ceiling).
2. Metal suspensions to form the required gap between the gypsum board and the load-bearing part of the ceiling.
3. Drywall (standard for most rooms, moisture resistant for kitchen, bathroom, toilet and balcony).
4. Fasteners for profiles and drywall (anchors, self-tapping screws for metal and gypsum board).

1. Plaster for gypsum plasterboard.
2. Serpyanka ribbon.
3. Perforated corners for masking corner joints.
4. Primer.
5. Finishing materials (interior paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper, etc.).

We purchase separately materials for lighting:

1. Flush-mounted ceiling luminaires (for incandescent, halogen or LED lamps).
2. Connecting wire PVA 3 × 0.75 or PVA 3 × 0.5.
3. Cable channels with clamps for fastening.
4. LED strip for backlighting.
5. Transformer and dimmer for LEDs.
6. Insulating tape.

Instruments

A backlit plasterboard ceiling can be made using less sophisticated tools. And yet the set of devices, without which work would be practically impossible, turns out to be very extensive.

My minimum includes:

1. Rotary hammer with drill bits for concrete / brick.
2. Crown drill for making holes for lighting fixtures.
3. Screwdriver with magnetic bits and drywall attachment.
4. Shears for metal for cutting a profile.
5. Saw for cutting gypsum boards.
6. Sharp knife for working with drywall.
7. A plane for processing the edges of gypsum plasterboard sheets.
8. Spatulas for leveling the sheathing.
9. Grinding floats.
10. Priming and finishing brushes.
11. Electrician tools - standard and indicator screwdrivers, pliers, sharp knife, etc.

To the additional devices that greatly facilitate the work, I would include a rack or painting trestles: without them it will be very difficult to sheathe the ceiling.

Installation technology

Main ceiling frame

There are different ways to make backlit plasterboard ceilings, so here I will describe the two most common modifications. The easiest way is to install an ordinary suspended ceiling, behind which wires and built-in lamps are hidden.

Such a ceiling is assembled on a horizontal frame:

1. First, we need to mark the room. To do this, we check the height of the walls in each corner and find the lowest corner. From this point, we set aside a distance equal to the gap of our future ceiling - from 50 to 100 mm or more. Most often, the size of the gap is determined by the size of the recessed luminaires.

1. Then we prepare the floor itself. Since plasterboard sheathing perfectly hides all defects from prying eyes, I usually limit myself to dismantling large fragments of the old finish and all the parts installed on the ceiling (cornices, bracket, etc.). After that, it is advisable to treat the ceiling and the upper part of the walls with an antiseptic primer - this way we will protect ourselves from fungi that may appear behind the cladding.
2. The next stage is the installation of the UD starter profile. We cut the U-shaped parts to the size of the room and apply them to the walls, after which we drill holes for fasteners with a puncher. We fix the profile strictly according to the level, using plastic dowels and metal locking screws with a tapered point (the so-called “express mounting dowels”).

1. Then we apply markings directly to the ceiling with a step of 400 mm. Using the markings with the same indentation, we fix the ceiling hangers, fixing them with anchors. Bend the sides of the suspensions vertically down.
2. Now we mount the C-shaped profile (CD), which will serve as the basis for our ceiling. We cut the profile panels to size, after which we bring the edges into the starting profile and fix them with self-tapping screws. We fix the spans on suspensions, carefully leveling them to a level or a stretched cord. After fixing, bend the free edges of the suspensions up.

1. For greater rigidity, we lay the transverse profiles: we place them perpendicular to the already installed ones, also fixing them on the suspensions and in the starting profile on the walls. At the intersections of the profiles, we install special connectors - crabs.

If it is planned to form a box around the perimeter of the room, then for greater rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to install an additional support profile where the border of this box will pass. In principle, you can do without this trick, but it will be much more reliable.

Perimeter box

Sometimes the backlight is not mounted behind the main skin, but in a box around the perimeter of the ceiling or on a special side shelf (in the case of an LED strip).

Such a box is also quite simple to construct, but nevertheless there are tricks here:

1. In the first step, we need to determine the height of the box. As in the case of the base ceiling, we set aside the required distance from the upper edge of the room (whether it be a ceiling or plasterboard sheathing) and draw the main line on the wall strictly according to the level.

If the box is mounted without the preliminary formation of the first level of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling, then the floor itself should be perfectly flat. This can be achieved with plaster followed by putty.

1. Then we mark the width of the future box on the ceiling and also draw a line.

1. We install the starting profiles UD according to the marks: we fix them on the wall or the main ceiling with anchors, on the plasterboard sheathing - with self-tapping screws. Here, a pre-made mortgage from the main ceiling profile will come in handy: it will ensure the reliability of fixation.
2. Then we make several tens of segments from the CD profile, the length of which should be equal to the height of the box - they will perform the function.

1. We attach the segments to the upper starting guide in increments of about 30 - 40 cm. They should be located strictly vertically.
2. Now we make the same number of segments, but their length should be equal to the width of the box.
3. If a ledge shelf is made for an LED strip, then we make a margin in length equal to the width of this shelf.

1. We put one edge of each segment into the starting profile on the wall, the second we connect with a vertical impromptu suspension. Carefully align the bottom edge of the resulting structure and connect all the parts with self-tapping screws.

Sometimes, to ensure greater rigidity or to form the plane necessary for fixing the shelf, another UD profile is attached to the improvised suspensions, but in some cases it is possible to do without it.

We repeat these operations for all suspensions - this is how we get a frame, inside which a perimeter illumination or LED strip can be placed. After the installation of the frame, the wiring is carried out, but we will talk about this stage of the work in the corresponding section.

Plasterboard cladding and finishing

Now we need to figure out how drywall is attached to the profile.

There are no particular difficulties here, but again - it's all about the nuances:

1. We cut the sheets of gypsum into fragments of the size we need. When trimming, the edge of the sheet intended for joining must be processed with a plane to obtain an even edge. It is also advisable to chamfer at an angle of 450 - this will make it easier for us to seal the seam.

1. We apply each sheet to the ceiling and align it so that its edge falls in the middle of the ceiling profile. We fix the sheet to the guides using self-tapping screws, twisting them in a checkerboard pattern.
2. To fix the gypsum board to the ceiling frame, it is convenient to use a special attachment for a screwdriver: it ensures strict adherence to the sufficient screwing depth of the self-tapping screw, so that we will be practically insured against passing the cardboard layer.
3. When lining the ceiling of a large area, we place the gypsum board sheets in such a way that the seams between them do not coincide. The optimal gap between the sheets is up to 4-5 mm - it compensates for the deformations of the gypsum board, so that the ceiling will not swell with changes in temperature and humidity.

1. The frame of the box is sheathed with plasterboard strips, cut to size: first we fix the lower plane, and then - the side sheathing.
2. When forming a shelf for an LED strip, the side edge is formed from a thin strip of drywall, which is attached to the UD profile, fixed at the ends of the guides. In this case, we leave a gap between the upper edge of the side edge and the ceiling, sufficient for the passage of light.

1. We glue all the joints between the sheets with a serpentine and fill it with putty (the chamfer is exactly what ensures good adhesion of the gypsum board and the putty mixture).
2. We glue a special perforated corner on the corners of the box and on the joint of the box with the ceiling. We close up the corner with putty, carefully all the planes.

1. We also level out all defects and damage to the drywall itself with a putty.
2. At the last stage, we cover up the caps of the screws.

1. After polymerization of the putty, we wipe the surface with a fine abrasive, and then we carry out decorative finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying textured plaster, etc.

When we make illuminated ceilings, we need to form holes for built-in lamps. Each master decides for himself when to do it best.

I prefer to drill drywall after sanding, but before finishing. This way, I am guaranteed not to ruin the painted or wallpaper-pasted ceiling - and the lamps themselves can be installed after decorating.

A few words about arcs from the profile and gypsum board

Sometimes, when installing a backlit ceiling, it becomes necessary to form a curved surface. Therefore, we need to first bend the profile, then fix it on the base, and then fix the curved gypsum board to the frame.

This is done - if you know how - quite simply:

1. We cut the profile part intended for bending to size, and turn it over so that the flat base is at the bottom, and the vertical sidewalls look up.
2. Then we take scissors for metal and cut the sidewalls to the base in increments of 50 to 80 mm (the smaller the radius, the smaller the step).
3. We carefully bend the profile according to the configuration we need. We carry out the final bending already during installation, adjusting the position of the profile relative to the markings and fasteners applied to the ceiling.

You need to work, of course, with gloves!

With drywall, the situation is somewhat more complicated: this material is quite fragile, and therefore, if you try to bend it without preliminary preparation, it is almost guaranteed to crack. However, there is a way out:

Along the cuts, the strip can be bent without the risk of cracking.

Well, with less risk!

1. To form curved surfaces, we purchase a special arched gypsum board with a reduced thickness, which bends much easier.
2. Then, on the seamy side of the cut GKL strip, every 30 -50 mm, we make cuts almost the entire thickness of the gypsum layer. Now, when bending, the wrong side of the material simply diverges, and the front part forms the arc we need.

1. The second way to bend the gypsum board to form beautiful ceiling contours is to moisten the material. Turn the workpiece over with the wrong side up and use a roller to gently moisten the sheet. After about an hour (the water is just absorbed), we begin to bend the strip right at the attachment point, immediately fixing each self-tapping screw to the frame.
2. Some experts also recommend rolling the inside of the drywall with a needle roller. In theory, this should work, but I myself have not used this method, so I will not dare to recommend it with 100% certainty.

In any case, when bending the gypsum board, you need to act very carefully: even the precautions described above do not guarantee that the material will not crack with any awkward movement.

Electrical part

Wiring

Naturally, when designing a backlit plasterboard ceiling, you need to pay attention to the electrical part of the system.

Since the wiring in this case will be hidden behind the cladding, we do not have to gouge the ceiling - so the laboriousness of laying the network will turn out to be quite acceptable:

1. To begin with, we decide where we will have the lamps. When using standard built-in lamps, it is advisable to place them no further than 0.7 m from the wall and 1.2 - 1.5 m from each other: this way there will be no shaded areas in the room.
2. We mark the locations of the lamps on the base (the first level of the false ceiling or ceiling), after which we mark the routes along which the wires will pass.

1. We remove the wires from the junction box in the room (as I noted above, PVA 3 × 0.75 or PVA 3x0.5 will be enough) in non-combustible cable ducts. I usually use a corrugated casing, but you can also use a square box - its price is slightly higher, but it can be left in open areas, as it looks neat.

1. When designing lighting hidden in a false ceiling, I usually lay two branches powered by separate switch keys. The bulbs should be connected to these branches one by one - then we will be able to regulate the light intensity as efficiently as possible.
2. I pull the cable channels with wires through the ceiling frame (or through the frame for the box around the perimeter) and fix it either to the frame elements or directly to the ceiling. For fixing I use clamps, trying not to damage the corrugation when tightening them.

1. Opposite the installation site of each lamp, I leave a free loop of a wire about 40 cm long. To save time, when connecting the lamps, you can immediately cut the wire, strip the ends and connect the terminal block.

If the design of the lamps used provides for this, then I fix the bases of the lamps on the ceiling and immediately connect the wires to the terminals.

The supply cable is led to the switchboard. It should be connected only after the installation of the luminaires is completed - solely for safety reasons.

Installation of luminaires

Instructions for installing recessed light lamps into a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard (whether it be a ceiling or a separate box) is very simple:

1. Using a crown drill, you make holes under the base of the hidden lamp in the selected places. Instead of a crown, you can use a "ballerina" or even cut out the nest with a knife. In the latter case, it is not so neat, so this method is only suitable for lamps with a wide decorative base that can overlap the edges of the hole.

1. Then we carefully remove from the space behind the casing a loop of wires or a wire with an installed terminal block. You can get it with a wire hook.
2. We connect the wires to the contacts of the lamp. As you understand, I prefer to attach all devices to terminal blocks, but in principle, you can simply twist the conductors, carefully insulating the contact points.

1. We bring together the spacer mounts of the lamp, insert the body into the hole and release the spacer. The spring opens and presses against the drywall from the wrong side.

Everything! Now we just have to install a protective cap or a decorative overlay that masks the attachment point.

LED strip option

Material selection

An open plasterboard box with lighting on the ceiling is usually equipped not with individual lamps, but with an LED strip. This tape is a strip with fixed LEDs that must be connected to a power source through a special power supply.

Choose a tape according to the following parameters:

Parameter	Features of choice
Colour	There are three options here: whites are the simplest, cheapest, and therefore the most common. They are used for general lighting, have a relatively low decorative potential; monochrome - green, blue, pink, etc. They are almost never used as the main source of lighting, therefore they should only be used for decorating a room; multicolor (RGB) - include diodes of several colors, so we get the ability to change the color of the glow. A special controller is used to control the tape.
Density of LEDs	This parameter determines how many luminous points will be on one meter of tape. The most common products are those with 30, 60 or 120 diodes. Naturally, the more LEDs on one meter, the brighter the tape.
Power	Determined by the size of the diodes used. As a rule, the power is indicated both on the packaging and on the tape itself: SMD3528 - uses diodes 3.5x2.8 mm, used mainly for contour decorative lighting; SMD5050 - works on 5x5 mm LEDs, can be used as a source of background lighting.
Security	LED strips are often produced with moisture protection. For ceiling lighting, this parameter is not so important, but it is still necessary to have an idea about it. The degree of moisture resistance is indicated by marking: IP20-33 - no moisture protection, basic dust protection. Suitable for lighting in residential areas; IP44-65 - LEDs are protected with a silicone coating that prevents dust and moisture from entering the contacts. Can be used in kitchens, bathrooms, etc .; IP66-68 - sealed tape in a silicone or PVC jacket. They can be used both outdoors and even under water at shallow depths.

In addition to the tape itself, for mounting the contour lighting you will need:

1. Power Supply.
2. Tricolor controller.
3. A dimmer is a device that allows you to adjust the brightness of LEDs.

Installation technology

LED strip backlighting can be mounted in different ways, but I prefer this algorithm:

1. I cut the tape into lengths up to 5 m.
2. You only need to cut along the lines marked on the tape itself, otherwise we will damage the electrical circuit.
3. I carefully clean the contacts at the end of each segment.

1. Observing the polarity, I connect the wires from the power supply to the tape contacts. To do this, I use either special connectors, or - in the old fashioned way - a soldering iron.
2. I close the place of soldering with a heat-shrinkable insulating tube.
3. If necessary, I connect a dimmer and a controller for color illumination to the network.

1. I put the tape on a gypsum board shelf, fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling. I fix the product with a self-adhesive layer on the seamy side, positioning it so that the light hits the ceiling and is reflected into the room.

1. I install the controller, dimmer and power supplies in a separate place, providing more or less free access to these devices.

After completing the work, I test the system. If everything is on and switches as it should - congratulations, the backlight is ready!

Conclusion

The illuminated plasterboard ceiling is both beautiful and practical at the same time. That is why I like such structures so much: yes, in order to erect such an overlap, you will have to work hard and think over everything thoroughly. But the result is clearly worth the effort.

If my story and the examples attached to the images inspired you, study the video in this article, think over the design of the ceiling, and, if necessary, ask questions in the comments.

The creation of a beautiful, cozy interior is probably the desire of every person who is concerned about the renovation of his house or apartment. Among the important stages of improving the premises, of course, it is necessary to highlight the creation of the ceiling.

Today there are various options for ceilings: from stretch to multi-level. Of course, each of them has its own advantages, but backlit plasterboard ceilings can become a real decoration of the interior. What is their advantage.

Benefits of illuminated ceilings

1. Backlit drywall has one undoubted advantage - this combination allows, with a moderate combination of beauty and functionality, to stylishly and tastefully equip your own home.
2. Drywall is a fairly simple material to install and use. If you have some skills in electricity, then there will be no problems with creating ceilings with any lighting.



3. The ceiling will be flat, since the sheet has a smooth and even surface.
4. Drywall is an environmentally friendly product - it does not emit toxins.
5. Drywall is fireproof.

Design features

Despite the external showiness and complexity, it will not be difficult to create such ceilings. Even in the absence of the necessary skills in working with electrical appliances, you can use simple recommendations that will allow you to quite successfully mount the backlight into your plasterboard ceiling.



According to the design and location of the luminaires, such ceilings can be divided into main groups:

• with open backlight;
• with hidden backlight.

Open backlit ceilings

The first group of ceilings assumes that the luminaires must be built into the ceiling using specially created holes in the plasterboard ceiling, or a simple suspension to it is carried out.

Keep in mind! For plasterboard ceilings, the weight of the pendant lights should not exceed 10 kg. This recommendation is caused by the low bearing capacity of the sheathing and the frame of this ceiling.

Ceilings with hidden lighting

In the second case, the luminaires must be placed in specially equipped niches, which are located between two levels of the ceiling. As a result, the light from the lamps does not spread directly into the room, but goes to the ceiling and is reflected from it, creating a unique atmosphere in the room.

Thanks to such lighting in the room, coziness is formed, emphasized, and your home takes on a sophisticated look.

When creating a backlit plasterboard ceiling, first of all, you should decide on the backlight option and the shape of the ceiling. For small rooms, it is advisable to use a single-level design, since a multi-level option will significantly reduce the height of the room, which will lose 8-15 cm. If the room is large, then you can build where your design ideas will be involved.

Types of backlighting that can be implemented

When creating a backlit plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to optimally select the lamps for the backlight. In most cases, fluorescent or LED lamps are used to create lighting for suspended ceilings, however, other options can be used.

Before starting work, you should evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of various backlights and choose the one that suits you best.

Backlight types:

• lamps;
• LED lights;
• chandelier;
• duralight;
• neon lights.

LED lights

For lighting, LED lamps or LED strip can be used. In the case of plasterboard ceilings with side niches in several levels, the illumination in the form of a tape will look quite interesting, it will be very practical and functional.

The backlight can be made in different colors, to control the modes, you can use an RGB controller or dimmer.

Advantages of LED backlighting:

• lack of heating of structural elements;
• low power consumption;
• ease of placement of the backlight.

Disadvantages:

• low level of room illumination;
• reworking of the wiring is required;
• a step-down transformer must be installed.

Light fixtures

This option is very common. In this, the fixtures are built in pointwise. To place them, markings are made and holes of the required diameter are cut out for the lamps. Their number, as well as their location, is selected based on the purpose of the room, ceiling design, natural lighting.

Luminaire advantages:

• modern design;
• easy to install on your own.

Disadvantages:

• low light level;
• lamps that use incandescent lamps consume a significant amount of energy and also get very hot;
• rewiring required.

Classic chandelier

This option is the simplest, because you only need to choose the color, shape, number of lamps, and then use the old wiring to connect the chandelier. It is recommended to use energy saving lamps. For combination, you can use warm or cold lights.

Advantages of the chandelier:

• the simplest and fastest installation;
• high level of illumination.

Disadvantages:

• visual reduction in ceiling height;
• a significant contrast to the modern interior.

Neon lights

Thanks to the neon lights, you can create pretty smooth outlines. At the same time, you can create a unique design using a variety of color solutions, which abound.

Neon lighting can be placed in the niches of the walls, along the ceiling of the room. The installation technology in this case is akin to installing LED strips, but in this case, professional skill in performing these works may be required.

Advantages:

• a large selection of colors;
• modern design.

Disadvantages:

• complexity;
• the need for professional skills.

Duralight

A feature of this type of lighting is that the tubes with incandescent lamps (duralight) are arranged in series and the failure of one light bulb will require replacing the adjacent segment. It is desirable to use modern duralight, where LEDs are used instead of incandescent bulbs. This will also reduce power consumption, increase the resource and brightness of lighting.

Duralight is often used as additional lighting.

Advantages:

• one of the cheapest options.

Disadvantages:

• low durability and reliability of duralight when using incandescent lamps.

Frame installation instructions

First of all, to create a drywall niche for hidden lighting, you need to use a metal profile.

Installation of the first level frame is carried out as follows:

1. It is necessary to retreat from the ceiling about 100 mm and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. In order for the line to be even and correct, you need to use a hydro level or a laser level.
2. The starting profile should be fixed to the wall along the line.
3. Then you need to insert the main one into the starting profile and fix it to the ceiling additionally using suspensions (distancers). The profile is fixed at intervals of about 40 cm.
4. To give the structure rigidity using crab connectors, jumpers made from the same profile are installed between the main profiles.
5. With the help of crabs and hangers, profiles and lintels are connected.

At the end, the frame is sheathed with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws. As a result, the first basic level of the ceiling structure will be ready.

The next step will be the installation of a niche for lighting. To create a niche for hidden lighting, it is necessary to build a second level.

Second level frame

1. At the first level of the ceiling, draw the border of the second.
2. It is necessary to retreat 4-6 cm (under the width of the cornice), after which the starting profile should be fixed to the ceiling.
3. With scissors for metal, it is necessary to cut the segments of the main profile, which will be sized. They should be fixed with self-tapping screws in the starting guide, as a result they will be assigned the role of suspensions.
4. You should also fix the starting profile from the bottom side to the hangers.
5. In the formed frame, you need to insert the main ceiling profiles, connecting them into a common structure.
6. The necessary wires must be brought out and sheathed the frame in the same way as was done with the first.
7. At the end, protruding screw caps are performed, as well as over the rest of the area. To protect the seams from cracks, you can use a fiberglass "cobweb".

Today drywall is used for various types of work, it is especially widespread in the sheathing of planes. In addition to wall cladding, it is used to create various structures. You can make a ceiling out of it with your own hands using various lighting effects. This material has its advantages and disadvantages.

Consider the features of installing a plasterboard ceiling with lighting.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a heat-resistant building material that is well suited for creating a flat surface, the formation of three-dimensional forms. This material is easy to process, including cutting any contour, drilling holes.

Depending on the desired shape, single-level, two-level and multi-level ceilings of the usual and curly type are made from it. For single-level ceilings, the main advantage is simplicity and reliability.

Basically, this option is used for small rooms, except for the bathroom and kitchen, where high humidity can destroy the material. In the absence of moisture, a plasterboard ceiling can last for decades, therefore, such structures today decorate different rooms of a modern person's dwelling.

With the addition of bright backlighting, multi-level designs look chic and voluminous. Complex elements of a wide variety of shapes, decoration, various options for inserts are a small part of the design imagination. Lighting devices contribute to achieving an excellent effect in the design of structures.... Curly ceilings are mounted using non-standard elements in the form of flowers, butterflies, curls, clouds, stars.

Backlight types

There are two types of lighting for plasterboard ceilings.

Consider the features of each.

Open backlight

These luminaires are inserted into the holes prepared for them in the ceiling sheathing. Sometimes they are simply hung from the ceiling. Most often, this type of lighting is used in single-level structures..

It is necessary to take into account the weight of the hanging lighting: a backlight weighing more than 10 kg may not withstand and ruin the entire cladding.

Hidden

To make a ceiling with closed backlighting, you need to calculate the layout of the fixtures well. Such systems are made when installing multi-level ceilings.... Lighting devices are built into specially made niches. To create a cozy atmosphere in the premises and an original atmosphere the stream of light is not directed directly into the room, but onto the ceiling plane reflecting light into a common space.

Style and design

The design of plasterboard ceilings is often complex. At the same time, it is an entertaining task in the process of renovating a room. When solving it, you need to pay attention to the functional purpose of the room, furniture furnishings, general decoration. This will help to rationally divide the space into zones, save from visual errors and negative perception of the room. You can get confused by the variety of design options through the backlight.

You need to carefully consider the design if you want to end up with a bright and updated interior. A single-level ceiling can be decorated to your taste (for example, painted with enamel, wallpaper on top). It is advisable to use light colors, dark shades will visually reduce the space.

Multi-tiered structures in a classic interior are used in public halls, exhibition galleries and other institutions. Intricate reliefs will decorate children's rooms, spacious rooms, bedrooms.

You can make the ceiling in the form of a wave. Pictures or, for example, a standard circle are also suitable. The figured design will amaze children and adults with its unique sophistication.

The color combination of the ceiling with the colors of the walls, furnishings will be magnificent, patterns made in the same style look good. You can decorate your home by equipping the ceiling with lighting. Lamps add more light and comfort.

Required tools and accessories

For the installation of such structures, complex tools are not required; this does not require special knowledge and skills.

To equip the ceiling with lighting it is worth preparing:

• screwdriwer set;
• drill;
• pliers.

To mount the ceiling itself, you need a little more fixtures. These include:

• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• hacksaw;
• scissors for metal;
• building level;
• roulette;
• pencil.

In addition, it is desirable to have a design diagram and plasterboard material, as well as light bulbs and profiles.

How to do it?

Having decided on the choice of design, lighting option, color performance of the future design, installation can be performed.

The list of works is usual:

• marking, frame manufacturing;
• sheathing with material;
• installation of lamps.

Let's consider the main points:

• It is necessary to measure the required distance from the ceiling and draw horizontal markings around the perimeter of the entire room. The size of the gap between the ceiling and the marking line depends on how much the height of the walls allows (preferably about half a meter). To do this, use a tape measure, a level and a pencil.
• Along the markings, it is necessary to fix the profile to the wall surface. It is necessary to insert the main parts into the profile and attach it to the ceiling with special hangers. The profile elements must be inserted at intervals of about 400 mm.
• To strengthen the structure using crab connectors between the main parts, it is necessary to add profile jumpers.
• Then gently sheathe the frame with sheets of drywall using self-tapping screws. It is better to cut drywall with a sharp construction knife. The cut side of the sheets should be processed with a special plane and sanded with sandpaper, removing minor flaws. The result should be a full-fledged basis for translating the conceived design into reality.

If the project involves a multi-tiered structure, then you need to start creating a niche:

• It is necessary to draw the outline of the upcoming level on the main tier of the ceiling.
• Having retreated by the thickness of the gypsum board from the contour, you need to attach a profile to the ceiling.
• After that, it is necessary to cut the profile elements as large as the height of the second tier. Then they need to be screwed to the main profile with self-tapping screws (they will be used as suspensions).
• Another profile must be attached to the bottom of the suspensions.
• The resulting frame must be supplemented with jumpers, combining them into one structure.
• After that, the wires must be brought out in the right places.
• Then it is necessary to sheathe the frame and the sides of the tier with plasterboard.

In the final stage, it remains to putty the seams of the cladding material, remove the caps of the screws and mask the resulting flaws. After the putty it is necessary to sand the entire surface in the necessary places, giving the base evenness.

Finishing can be done in any suitable way.

To repeat the contour of the tier with the profile, you need to construct it in pieces of certain size, the same applies to the plasterboard elements of the level board.

In the bedroom

The most comfortable room designed to relax and unwind body and soul is the bedroom. She must be comfortable, while consistent with fashion trends.

A large role in the design of such a place is played by the appearance of the ceiling. The square version of the design looks quite attractive.

Single-tiered

This option is the simplest, it can be done beautifully by adding lighting effects. But on such a ceiling, the possibilities are limited, it is not always possible to realize everything that you want. Therefore, such designs are often uncomplicated.

Two tiers

These designs will give the bedroom a visual dimension and completely change the look of the entire room. Professionally made two-level plasterboard ceilings create a comfortable, unique environment.

Tiered

These systems are the most complex to manufacture, such devices will give the bedroom a stately chic, add luxury, they imply the use in decoration of various decorative forms (for example, arches, moldings).

With multi-level ceilings and lighting you can successfully divide the bedroom into separate functional zones by highlighting the bed area... The formation of different levels can visually play up the flaws of the ceiling, make it higher or lower.

A variety of lighting options make it possible to make multi-level ceilings luxurious and sophisticated. That is why they have become the key design elements of plasterboard structures today. In the design of the ceiling for the bedroom, it is better to use rounded and lax forms: they will bring peace and tenderness to the atmosphere.

In the hall

The hallway is the look of every house. Its appearance should make a favorable impression. The furnishings and decoration should be combined with each other as much as possible. It is good if they are made in a general style. The ceiling must be made in the same design.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling, of course, will not make a huge room out of a microscopic hallway, but if you correctly calculate the structure, you can create a visual sense of spaciousness, which is present in large rooms.

Many designers advise ceilings with distinct geometric features for such corridors..

Niches of regular shapes located in the center visually expand the space of the room. If the hallway is narrow and in addition long, it is better to make geometric niches in several places.

In a spacious hallway, you can give free rein to fantasies. There is room for experimentation and improvisation. There will be various options for the execution of the ceiling sheet, since the area gives everything to create a masterpiece of any complexity and shape. Due to the quick installation and the ability to implement the most daring ideas, such ceiling surfaces have achieved the recognition of the masters of design.

In the hallway, a soaring multi-level ceiling with a rim looks great. It needs to be supplemented with a diode tape. All these tricks are capable of creating a real masterpiece even from the smallest and cramped hallway.

While drywall is easy and straightforward to work with, there are some helpful tips for creating harmony in your design.

Let's note the main criteria:

Room height

This is the main parameter, it can significantly affect the design possibilities. With low ceilings, the slightest loss of space can negatively affect the interior as a whole.... There are ready-made options for multi-tiered structures suitable for low rooms.

A variety of plasterboard structures can allow you to make a beautiful ceiling even in low rooms.

Lighting

If natural light does not penetrate well into the room, you need to focus on the lighting and the choice of the ceiling option. Additional lighting with adjustable luminous flux level will add the necessary lighting.