When designing any metal structures, the question arises - what kind of rolled metal and what cross-section should be used to ensure the reliability of the structure under the influence of expected loads. You can find accurate calculation methods or use software resources that allow you to calculate almost any structure. However, this is almost always only possible for professionals who know how to use software, who know the technology of production of metal structures and have an understanding of rolled metal.

Very often, when designing small and uncomplicated objects, for example, stairs to the second floor, you have to choose rolled metal based on experience, as they say “by eye.” In order to somehow justify your choice, and at the same time instill confidence in both yourself and the customer, we offer the simplest (“for beginners”) calculation option.

Let's say we need to build metal carcass stairs to the second floor.

Let it be: the length of the stairs is 3m. , tilt angle 30 0, estimated load: 200 kg. – weight of the structure and 500 kg. – additional load. It is necessary to select a profile pipe for the load-bearing beam (string)

The calculation is carried out with a certain degree of approximation. Figure 1 shows a diagram of the staircase beam,

Fig.1 where:

L – beam length,

q – angle of inclination of the stairs

In our case: F = 500kg.

L = 300cm.

q = 30 0

P = 200kg.

For simplicity of calculation and, taking into account that in the end the staircase to the second floor will be quite rigid, allowing the load to be distributed, we will reduce the existing diagram (Fig. 1) to a diagram with a uniformly distributed load,

Fig.2 where: b is the horizontal component of the beam,

For our case: b = L *cos q = 300*cos 30 0 = 260 cm.

Q = F +P = 500kg.+200kg. = 700kg.

G= Q/ b = 700kg/260cm. = 2.7kg/cm.

Under the influence of loads, the pipe will begin to sag. With minor deflections, after removing the load, the pipe will return to its original state. If the load exceeds the permissible one, deformation (irreparable deflection) of the pipe may occur. In order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to compensate for the bending moment (arising from the action of the load) by the resistance moment of the pipe. In our case, the formula for the bending moment is:

M = q* b 2 /8 Substituting the data we get: M = 22815 kg.cm.

The moment of resistance of the pipe depends on the material of the pipe (stair beam) and is calculated by the formula:

W= M/ R, where: R – design resistance metal

pipes, for steel St.3 – R = 2100.

Substituting the values M And R , we get that W = 10.86cm3

The moments of resistance of profile pipes are calculated and tabulated, which can be found in the relevant Internet topics. Using the tables, we need to take pipes with W more than that obtained in our calculations (> 10.86). Moment of resistance greater value 10.86 for pipes 70x70, 80x80, etc. If you take a pipe 50x100, then on the side 100W = 24cm3, i.e. almost two and a half times more than in our calculation. Thus, for the beam (string) of our stairs to the second floor, a 50x100 profile pipe is quite suitable. Rolled metal for load-bearing elements stairs should be taken with a three to five times margin against possible loads. Additionally, it is necessary to check the deflection of the beam (strings, stringers of the stairs). In the case of a uniformly distributed load, the deflection is determined by the formula:

f = 5 Gb 4/384 EI Where: f — maximum deflection

G – uniformly distributed load

b – horizontal projection of the beam

E – modulus of elasticity (tabular data)

I – moment of inertia (tabular data).

For our case G = 2.7 kg/cm., b = 260cm., E (for steel St.3) = 20.4*10 5 kg.cm 2 (reference data), I (for a pipe 50x100) = 137cm. 4 (tabular data). Eventually:

f = 0.6 cm.

The deflection is insignificant, but at the beginning we simplified the problem and brought it to the option of a uniformly distributed load. In reality, the load will be concentrated and the deflection can be three times greater. On the other hand, we calculated only one beam (string, stringer). If we take classic version with two, for example, stringers, then the deflection will again decrease. In general, if the deflection is not permissible, then you should make supports, connect several pipes, or look for other options.

In conclusion, it must be emphasized that we did not try to make accurate calculations, but tried to prove that the 40x80 or 50x100 pipes used in the construction of stairs are quite the correct option.

Choice profile pipe for the installation of stairs is due to the fact that this design is easier to use and much more variable in design; it is suitable for use both indoors and outdoors. However, to make reliable design do it yourself is only possible if you have experience welding work.

Profiled pipe – universal material, at the same time light and durable, aesthetic in itself and goes well with other construction and finishing materials.

You can make it from a metal profile as follows: stationary stairs, located in the house and on the street, as well as mobile structures for utility purposes.

Any staircase consists of steps and a support system - a stringer, on which the steps rest from above, or a bowstring, to which the steps are attached at the end.

The support system for staircases made from corrugated pipe is usually load-bearing beam, on which steps are laid on top.

There are:

• straight stringer - a straight beam is located along the entire length flight of stairs, the legs on which the steps will rest are welded to the main beam;
• a broken stringer consists of horizontal and vertical pipe sections connected to each other, forming a stepped structure, on which the steps rest directly.

The type of staircase is determined by the configuration of its main elements: marching, spiral staircases and stepladders differ in structure. Additional details such as railings and balustrades add convenience and aesthetics to the design.

Marching

Structures of this type are the most convenient for lowering and lifting and are quite simple to design and install, which is why they are most often built in private houses.

A staircase consists of one or more flights - arranged in a row of parallel steps, supported by one stringer or two or three parallel ones.

A single-flight structure can be installed inside the house if there is enough space. In case of shortage free space, which can be used to organize movement between floors, the staircase is erected in several flights. At the same time, when turning, the structure is supplemented with a platform or winder steps.

The landing provides additional strength, but significantly eats up space. To save space between flights, winder steps are made - their edges are not parallel, the width decreases from the edge of the stairs to the turning point.

To make the structure more reliable and save space, flight stairs are placed along the walls, and they try to organize turns in the corners between two walls.

Flight structures are also erected on the street - if the house has a high base or a non-residential first floor, a one- or two-flight porch is made.

Note! Winder steps due to the difference in width, their surfaces are more traumatic. The risk of tripping and getting injured is especially high among children and the elderly.

Screw

Stairs of this type are the most aesthetically pleasing and space-efficient, but they are also the most difficult to design and install, so they are not universally popular.

The support system consists of one spiral stringer, on which the wide edge of the step rests in the shape of a truncated sector, and a central pillar, to which the steps are attached with the narrow edge of the step.

The screw designs look really original, and they can literally fit on a small space. But climbing a narrow spiral staircase is difficult even on your own, about lifting furniture and household appliances out of the question.

To solve this problem, you can build an additional staircase on the street, and leave the screw structure in the house more for beauty.

What is a staircase made from a profile pipe, what qualities does it have, what are its advantages and how to make it yourself? When constructing them, the most different designs, where the profile pillar serves as the base. Welding technologies and metal processing methods of the present time make it possible to produce hardware at a new level, which is characterized by increased quality and reliability. Professional welders and blacksmiths hone their skills, producing impeccably crafted metal products that can surprise even those with an aesthetic taste.

These skills are good for building outdoor stairs. For interior spaces cottages, dachas and other multi-storey premises are suitable interfloor stairs from a profile pipe that can be made with my own hands. You can also make a spiral staircase from this material. Although making such a design is a process that requires time and labor, these products are strong and durable and are well worth the effort. Examples of such structures can be seen in the photo.

According to classification they are divided into different groups, but we are interested in indoor ones that you can do yourself. Most often, pipes with a cross section of 40 by 60 are used (see photo). When using smaller sizes, the design is considered unreliable, because a profile of this size is not strong enough.

How to build a staircase with your own hands

The most you need is the ability to work with welding, and, of course, the presence of a profile and a corner. It's not that difficult to build it on our own. By the way, if you do not have welding skills, then representatives of this profession can be found everywhere and always.

Here specific example such work. I think many people are wondering how to make the design that is being created take up as much space as possible. less space in our house. With all this, not many people like screw designs or almost vertical ones.

First you need to make a frame that will hold the structure. You need to prepare the basic elements: pipes, angles, and a welding machine.

Marching structures

1. Corners are welded to the side edges of the frame, welded from pipes.
2. Steps are attached to these corners. They are welded from sheet iron.
3. Then the burrs are removed using a file.
4. Next, before painting, the structure is primed to prevent rust.

Screw designs

To create a frame spiral staircase, take required length a pipe and a similar one, but of a larger diameter, for steps.

The pipe for the steps is cut into sleeves approximately 220 mm long.

1. Before starting work, we need to know how many elements we need. Divide the height of the room in which ours will be located homemade design, for the estimated length of the space between the steps, that is, 220 mm.
2. Then you need to cut the gasket and console from steel. We weld the gasket to the console, then weld the resulting elements to parts of the pipe (100 mm in diameter).
3. We install the steps onto the gasket using self-tapping screws. The tight fit of the sleeves located on the pipe must be maximum; distortions and backlashes are not acceptable. If gaps appear due to an inaccurate diameter, we make sealing rings.
4. Then you need to mark and assemble the steps. They need to overlap about five centimeters. To do this, the length of the circle should be less than the wider side of the steps.
5. Now all that remains is to put all the pieces together.

See also the video of the assembly of the structure.

As you can see, making a staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands is not so difficult; simple equipment and skills are enough home handyman and a little bit of life savvy.

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Staircase made of profile pipe - 2 of the most best options for home and garden

Square or rectangular hollow metal pipes have long become almost the main material for the construction of lungs frame structures in private construction. Familiar to everyone ladder Made from a profile pipe with your own hands, you can find one in almost every dacha.

To weld it from the pieces of material left after the construction of a fence or gazebo, you don’t need a lot of intelligence, weld the crossbars between the guides and use it. Today I will talk about the calculation and assembly of more complex marching and screw structures from the same profile pipe.

What you need to know when calculating any staircase

The calculation of a staircase made from a profile pipe is not much different from the calculation of similar structures made of wood or concrete. Such calculations cannot be called too complicated, the instructions are standard, but you should not neglect the stage of drawing up a drawing or at least sketching a sketch, with laying out all the dimensions and angles.

Calculation of the marching structure

Marching structures are rectilinear structures that do not have smooth bends or turns. There are also stairs with an intermediate turning platform, and if all the flights joining them are straight, then such structures also belong to the flight.

• You should start by measuring the height of the future flight of stairs. This is the easiest way to do it. The flight height refers to the distance between the floor of the lower and upper floors. In other words, you need to add the thickness of the interfloor ceiling to the height of the ceilings;
• In order to make it comfortable to walk on your stairs, you need to clearly calculate the dimensions of the tread and riser. The tread refers to the platform on which we place our feet, and the riser is the vertical distance between the treads. In both cases there is a comfortable operating range, so for the tread it lies in the range of 200 - 400 mm, and for the riser 150 - 200 mm;

• But it is equally important to maintain the correct relationship between the selected values. There are also a couple of formulas to calculate this ratio. I prefer A + B = 470 mm (“A” is the height of the riser, “B” is the size of the tread). In addition to it, there is another formula 2A + B = 640 mm, to be precise, not exactly 640 mm, but from 600 mm to 640 mm;
• The minimum width of a stationary home span starts from approximately 800 mm;
• Once you have calculated the appropriate tread and riser sizes for you, you can already calculate the number of steps (the height of the span divided by the height of the riser) and the horizontal distance from the beginning to the end of the span (the number of steps multiplied by the size of the tread);

With a ceiling height of more than 2.5 m, the horizontal distance (along the floor) from the beginning to the end of the flight starts at approximately 5 m. For small rooms it makes sense to build a turntable with a rotation of 90º or 180º.

• Now we just have to find out the most important thing. What will be the size of the future stringer made from a profile pipe? The Pythagorean theorem will help us here. For those who have forgotten a little, I remind you that the square of the hypotenuse must be equal to the sum of the squares of the legs (a² + b² = c²). We have two legs, this is the flight height and the horizontal size, all that remains is to calculate the hypotenuse, which is actually our stringer made of a profile pipe;
• There is one more point that must be taken into account when calculating: the angle of inclination of the march. So, according to SNiP, for stairs in residential premises this angle ranges from 23º to 37º. If it’s less, then it’s already a ramp, and if it’s more, then you’ll get tired of climbing those steps.

So that you fool yourself less with all the calculations, in the table below I have collected the most popular parameters of direct marching structures:

Step dimensions		March angular inclination (given in degreesº)
Step width	Riser height
400 mm	100 mm	14
380 mm	110 mm	16
360 mm	120 mm	18
340 mm	130 mm	21
320 mm	140 mm	23
300 mm	150 mm	26
280 mm	160 mm	29
260 mm	170 mm	33
240 mm	180 mm	37
220 mm	190 mm	40
200 mm	200 mm	45

When calculating, it is extremely rare to obtain integer, convenient numbers. So, it’s better to round the data up, so it will be easier for you to work in practice.
And the error that remains is compensated by the height of the first stage. Believe me, if it is a little smaller, no one will even notice.

Calculation of a spiral staircase

The choice in favor of a spiral staircase is most often made due to a lack of space, although in some cases this decision is caused by original idea designer. The price of such work for professionals is much higher, so it makes sense to calculate and collect load-bearing frame do-it-yourself stairs from a profile pipe. Moreover, this is not much more difficult than working with a straight march.

As in any business, there are 2 ways, for the lazy and for the persistent. If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then you can use a calculator for calculating spiral staircases, of which there are now plenty on the Internet. And for those who are persistent, I will further tell you how this is done manually.

First, let's look at the parameters and notation. By the way, the same notations are used in most electronic calculators.

• “H” is the vertical height of the structure. That is, the height of the ceiling, plus the interfloor ceiling;
• “H¹” is the interturn distance. This should be understood as the distance from the step you are standing on to the step above you. Naturally, this parameter should not be less than average human height, about 185 cm;
• “h” is the height of the tread, this is what we called the riser in the staircase;
• “h¹” - tread size or step depth, as you like;
• "R" - outer radius along the edge;
• “R¹” is the working radius or the one along which a person will climb the stairs;
• “r” is the radius of the central support.

• Along the working radius line, the depth of the tread should be in a range that is comfortable for a person, it is the same as in the case of linear marches of 200 - 400 mm;
• The width of the tread next to the central support must be at least 100 mm;
• The minimum span width is 1 m, but if you are not going to make railings, then this value increases to at least one and a half meters;
• In spiral staircases, the risers are usually left open, this is much more convenient. Compared to marching structures, a slightly larger variation in riser heights of 120 – 220 mm is allowed here.

As in the case of marching structures, you need to start with preliminary measurements. This includes the outer radius of the structure, the height of the staircase and where you plan the entry point and exit point, this is called the angle of twist of the structure. After this, you can start making calculations.

For example, I took fictitious values, you will naturally substitute your own. Let the outer radius “R” = 1000 mm, the height of the structure “H” = 3000 mm, the twist angle ω = 360º, that is, the entrance and exit are located above each other.

With this data we can find the working length of the march “L”, that is, the size of the stairs along the working radius line. It is believed that the working radius is about 2/3 of the maximum. Starting formula L=2πR¹.

Now we find out the number of steps:

• Let the tread size “h¹” be 250 mm, the basic formula is n=L/h¹;
• Therefore, 4190/250=16.79. The number of steps cannot be fractional, so we round up to 17, in addition, our top step coincides with the floor level, as a result we get 16 pure steps.

If we take the minimum size (100 mm) of the tread at the central pillar, then we can fully calculate the dimensions of the entire tread, only for this we will also need to find out the length of the structure along the outer radius “Lext”.

Lext = 2πR = (2*3.14*1000) = 6280 mm. Now we substitute everything into the starting formula.

h¹ = (7536/17) =369 mm

The height of the riser here is calculated in exactly the same way as in the flight span. The total height “H” is divided by the number of steps “n”, resulting in:

h = (H/n) = (3000/17) = 176 mm.

Correction of the ratio of steps is also permissible here and is done according to the same formula as for a linear march, only the designations change slightly.

2h + h¹ = 600 ... 650 mm. After correction we get a riser height of 190 mm.

But that is not all. We still need to calculate the dimensions of the upper exit platform. As you remember, our twist angle is 360º, the height of the riser in our case is 190 mm, the total height is 3000 mm.

In other words, by going up 4 steps, we will lose the height of 760 mm. If we take into account the thickness of the ceiling, then we have about 2m left. Therefore, the width of the upper platform should not exceed the width of 4 treads, otherwise tall people will cling to their heads.

Both when designing linear flights and when calculating a spiral staircase, try to ensure that the number of steps is always odd. The fact is that it is subconsciously more convenient for a person to start and finish a movement with one leg.

Assembly of structures

If you can handle the calculations and drawing up a sketch, marking the pipes for the future staircase will not be difficult for you. Therefore, we will go straight to the question of how to weld a staircase from a profile pipe.

Theoretically, of course, such a structure can be assembled using studs and bolts, but, not counting the complications in the calculations, the time and effort required to assemble this staircase will take at least 3 times more.
Plus, this option is not considered absolutely reliable, since the bolts tend to loosen during operation. Therefore, I do not advise you to get involved with such models.

Assembling the march flight

Linear marching structures can be of two types: a staircase based on a powerful, flat profile pipe and various designs with broken stringers.

Designing and welding the first option with a solid, straight pipe is much simpler and takes much less time, but the price of such a structure is slightly higher. This is due to the fact that as a base you will have to buy square profile with a minimum cross-section of 100x100 mm, although I recommend taking from 150x150 mm. Such stairs are much more reliable and look better.

In addition, the platforms on which the treads will be attached should not be more than half narrower than these same treads. Therefore, you will have to weld additional metal sheets thickness from 3 to 4 mm, and such an amount of thick, high-quality metal inevitably leads to an increase in the cost of the project.

As you understand, on a flat inclined pipe, the horizontal treads will need to be secured somehow. Consequently, the sites will have to be welded on. You can do them in two ways.

1. After we have calculated the angle of inclination of the pipe and marked the places where the steps are attached, pre-cut metal sheets are welded horizontally to the base along the entire width of the profile pipe, and wooden treads will subsequently be screwed onto them. But naturally, one horizontal seam cannot withstand such a load, so supports will have to be welded between the sheet and the pipe. These can be metal plates, pieces of reinforcement or profile pipes of a smaller cross-section. As you can see, it’s nothing complicated, but to be honest, this option doesn’t look very nice;
2. I like the second option better, it is simpler and looks more aesthetically pleasing.. The supports for the platforms are cut from the base profile pipe and sheets for the treads are welded onto them. To do this, mark a cut on it at the calculated angle, take a grinder and. From the side, such a cut will look like a triangle, and from the front side it has the shape of the letter “P”. Further along our cut we weld this support to the base pipe. The diagram shows both options.

Since the entire structure will actually be based on one pipe, the weight there will be serious and there will be colossal point pressure at the junction of the profile pipe with the floor.

In order to distribute it evenly over a larger area and insure against the lateral tipping of the ladder, you need to go to the base of the pipe and the fixation point to interfloor covering weld metal plates with a thickness of 5 mm. The dimensions of such plates should be slightly more area steps.

Now let's look at assembling a staircase based on a broken version of the stringer. In addition to cost, such designs are good for their low weight. After all, they use pipes of a much smaller cross-section.

It is believed that optimal size is 40x60 mm. More is possible, less is not advisable.

Here, as in the case of a straight stringer, you can cook it in two ways:

1. According to the first method, the profile pipe is cut into separate sectors corresponding to the dimensions of the treads and risers, plus a margin for the thickness of the pipe. After which all these pieces are welded together into a finished string. In theory it sounds simple, but in practice there is too much welding work and it is not a fact that you will be able to weld everything smoothly everywhere;
2. According to the second option, everything turns out much more elegant and faster. The idea is to use a grinder to cut out sectors in the form of isosceles triangles from a straight pipe, leaving only one wall intact. After this, we bend the pipe and weld the connection. I have shown what it looks like in the diagram.

As for the plates for support points, for a profile pipe with a cross-section of 40x60 mm it is enough to weld squares of approximately 200x200 mm and secure them to 4 anchors. Although, if possible, of course, it is better to connect two or more broken stringers on a single monolithic plate.

Assembly of the screw structure

Installation here begins with the installation of a central supporting round and preferably thick-walled pipe. The load on it will be serious and here the savings may come back to bite. As I already said, the pipe cross-section starts from 100 mm, this is the minimum width of the tread at the base.

Naturally, the pipe itself from below must be based on a thick, reliable platform. If you are installing a ladder at the construction stage, then in order not to spend money on an expensive thick iron sheet, you can weld a cross from the same profile pipes at the bottom. Then wall it all up in a screed.

The supports themselves for the treads can be made of two types. What is it in bearing capacity, and in terms of aesthetic characteristics they have little to show for it. Here it all depends on what section of the profile pipe is at hand:

1. If you have a thin tube 20x20 mm or 30x30 mm, then it is better to weld the frame around the perimeter of the tread, in a closed loop. In order not to measure each arc separately, you should immediately make a pattern from wooden blocks stuffed on chipboard sheet. With such a device, all you have to do is insert the cut tubes into your pattern and “tack” them by welding;

1. There is less hassle with the second option. But it uses profile pipes with a minimum cross-section of 40x60 mm. There is no need to construct any patterns here. Simply cut pipe sections along the working radius of the stairs. At the outer end, in the shape of the letter “T”, weld a piece of the same tube, slightly smaller than the width of the tread, and at the end weld this entire structure to the supporting pipe.

In both the first and second cases, one fixation point on the support is not enough for the step. Therefore, I recommend welding additional support under the step frame. There is no guarantee that you will be able to weld everything firmly and efficiently, and with a support the reliability of the step increases significantly.

Finishing work

Most often, the frame of a staircase from a profile pipe is lined natural wood. According to my observations, it is much cheaper, beautiful and reliable.

When selecting a board for treading, the most important thing is strength, so its thickness should be at least 40 mm. The thickness of the facing for risers and side string, if required, does not have of great importance, since these parts of the staircase carry only an aesthetic load.

Don't forget that you are dealing with metal, and as you know, it can rust. I don't think you're going to spend a fabulous amount of money on homemade ladder made of stainless steel. Therefore, after assembly, you first need to clean it with a file or better than a grinder all welds. After this, degrease or prime the structure and finally apply 2 - 3 layers of good paint.

Many people recommend powder coating the metal. So, such things as powder painting or nickel plating of metal can be done exclusively in the factory at professional equipment. At home, you can only paint or varnish the stairs.

Conclusion

For self-made a staircase frame made from a profile pipe fits perfectly. It's much easier than building stairs from wood, plus durability metal structure much higher. In the photo and video in this article it is given additional material for the manufacture of stairs. If your question remains unanswered or you have something to add, write in the comments and we’ll talk.

July 22, 2016

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A staircase from a profile pipe is created with your own hands using a welded and prefabricated method. For its manufacture, attached, stationary and other options are considered. For clear example, options for installing the structure in the form of a direct, screw and mobile structure are discussed below.

Important Details

• To reduce weight profile design inserts made of wood, glass, stone and ceramics are used.
• A do-it-yourself extension ladder from a profile pipe is made as an addition to the porch, external access to the attic and installation indoors.
• To create steps, profiled pipes with a cross-section of 5-7.4 cm are used. Shaking and vibration can be eliminated by reducing the length of the racks in the spans.
• The inclination of the steps is 1:2 or 1:2.5, which corresponds to an ascent angle of 30 to 40 degrees.
• A properly designed do-it-yourself staircase made from a profile pipe in the drawings has no more than 18 steps. In the presence of high ceilings, a platform is being built between the marches.
• For convenience, an odd number of steps is created in the march. This allows you to start and end your step on the same foot.
• The height of the steps is 15 – 21 cm.
• The width of the steps is 30 cm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the wider the treads.

A do-it-yourself metal staircase made from a profile pipe can have an alternative in the form of two channels. Initially, the support frame is welded, then the frame for the steps. It is placed in two ways:

1. On top of the channel;
2. Inside the frame.

In the first option, the corners are welded to the upper flange of the channel. And in the second case, preliminary fastening of the corners to the inclined beams inside is created. The remaining parts of the step frame are welded to them. Below is a do-it-yourself staircase made from a profile pipe in the photo.

Preparation of materials

• Channel 16 (height 16 cm, shelf width 6.4 cm) with a length commensurate with the flight. You will need 2 beams.
• Thick-walled profile 4x4 cm. Its quantity is determined by the number of steps. To create a small march you will need 20 linear meters.

Tools for constructing a march:

• Saw for metal structures (pendulum version).
• Drilling machine.
• Welding.
• Electric drill.

Installation steps:

• An interfloor staircase made from a profile pipe with your own hands begins with cutting the stringers to the required parameters so that after installation they form an abutment on the floor with the flat side of the cut.
• For a more durable fixation on the floors of the first and second floors, metal beams are laid to the concrete base under the floor surface (a channel with parameters of 22 cm can be used). The length of the beams should be greater than the width of the stairs.
• The load-bearing channels are attached to the embedded beams. Welding is used for this.

Here you can find out in detail how to make a staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands in the video:

Blanks for rectangular steps are created from the profile.

• The workpieces are mounted on guides and welded to them. To create reinforcement for the structure, vertical supporting parts from the same pipe are used.
• To make the device lighter, steel corners can be used instead of a pipe.
• The frame is cleaned and painted to prevent damage to the structure.
• Solid treads are laid on a metal base with further fastening using self-tapping screws. To do this, the gaps are pre-drilled.
• Supports in the form of pillars are welded on the sides of the guide channels, and handrails are placed on top.
• Mounted on steps vertical racks. Instead of balusters, horizontal rods or sheet plates such as plexiglass, plastic, veneer, triplex, etc. can serve.

Metal frame for staircase

Work plan:

• Marking and cutting profiles, connecting frames under steps.
• Concreting the structure.
• Installation of stringers;
• Equipping the back of the steps with corners.
• Welding steps together.

Installation instructions:

• The number of steps and their parameters are calculated.
• To create the frame, a 10x10 cm profile and 4x4 cm corners are used. In this case, the pipe is used instead of a channel, as it is characterized by great rigidity.
• Create a pedestal for a flat structure. The lower starting point for the beginning of the steps is located at the edge of the platform.

Attention! in case of installing a direct structure, a pedestal is not required, since it is important to take into account starting points between floor surfaces

• This is how a profile pipe is mounted, welded to the lower platform, and at the top, using anchors, it is fixed to the wall surface. Then the pre-cut corners are welded.
• The vertical parameters of the corners must have precise parameters, and the horizontal part of the products can protrude beyond the profile.
• A gap is created between the steps and the wall surface for wallpapering.
• Railings are welded to the side of the profile. Typically, the installation of railings is carried out with a distance of 10 cm from the edge. However, this will affect the narrowing of the stairs.

Screw designs

The pipe to create steps is cut into 22 cm sleeves.

To determine the number of elements, the height of the room is divided by 22 cm, that is, the dimensions of the riser.

The gasket and console are cut from a steel billet. The gasket is welded to the console, then the resulting elements are attached to parts of the pipe (thickness 10 cm).

The steps are placed on the gasket using self-tapping screws. The tightness of the sleeves placed on the pipe should be increased. The formation of distortions and backlashes is excluded. If holes are formed with an inaccurate diameter, sealing rings are created.

Then the markings are made and the steps are assembled. It is important to provide for an overlap of approximately 5 cm. The length of the circle is no less than the wider part of the steps. All that remains is to assemble a single structure. Gaps are immediately drilled to secure future steps. The structure is primed.

Attention! The staircase railings can be made from iron; a 4x4 cm profile pipe is used for the posts, and a 2x2 cm pipe is used for the handrails.

Then you can build wooden handrails on top of the metal. Forged elements are usually used in railings. Hammer paint is used to paint the stairs.

After it dries, temporary steps are installed. This will require laminated pine boards. They need to be varnished. To attach the steps you will need 32mm wood screws.

Ladder

Structurally, the product looks quite simple. It forms an emphasis with bowstrings on the wall and floor surface. The slope of the structure is 60-75 degrees. The steps are placed at one interval of 35 cm from each other. To eliminate sliding properties, plastic or rubber tips are placed on its supports.

Materials for production:

• Rectangular or round section 2 m long. One rectangular profile 165 cm long (for steps). Typically, duralumin pipes with a thickness of 2 mm are used.
• Nuts, bolts M8x70, washers.
• Ideally, welding is used. In this case, screw connections are not needed.
• 4 plastic or rubber protection for the bottom of the supports.

To create an attached structure, you need to prepare steps. A profile whose length is 165 cm is cut into 5 identical products 33 cm long. Markings are made on two profiles 2 m long. Marks are placed so that there is a gap of 35 cm between them.

Provided that bolts are used to fix the steps to the base, it is important to create clamps from thin strips of metal, designed for bending pipes symmetrically to the shape and drilling gaps in them. In this case, an indentation of 1.5 cm is made from the edge. Gaps are made in the pipes of 2 m each. This is facilitated by preliminary marking. If welding is used for fixation, this aspect is skipped.

Steps are attached. Plastic or rubber tips are placed on the legs.