Modern varieties of roses are the result of thousands of years of selection of ordinary rose hips, which have brought their magnificent fruits. What was so interesting to ancient breeders about this flower besides its amazing beauty? At that time, roses were considered medicinal plants with a healing aroma, and rose oil became a real breakthrough in perfumery. IN this moment All varieties of these flowers can be divided into two main types - self-rooted roses (that is, plants with their own root system) and grafted ones.

If you decide to create your own rose garden, you should decide in advance which type of flowers to give preference to, since the care and propagation of own-rooted and grafted roses are somewhat different.

Video “Roses, how to plant a rosary”

What flower can be called ideal? The one that has a delicate aroma or an amazing hue, the intricate shape of the petals or the rich green of the leaves? Whatever criterion you choose, the rose will perfectly meet it. Even in the times of ancient civilizations, people identified roses with greatness and beauty, endowed the flower with truly divine properties and improved it in every possible way.

Most resistant varieties roses were considered to be self-rooted - what are they? These are plants whose root part carries all the genetic characteristics of the selected variety. It doesn’t matter whether the first shoots froze in the spring - new ones will come from the roots and they will have the same roses as the old ones.

But grafted varieties do not have such resistance. As a rule, they are obtained by budding, that is, grafting varietal cuttings with adapted and stronger rosehip roots. Over time, such flowers can run wild, become smaller and degenerate. And if the varietal part freezes, rosehip shoots begin to grow from the rootstock.

Own root roses

The method of propagation of these two types of roses is also different. The main difference is that self-rooted plants can be propagated by layering or cuttings, as well as by dividing the mother bush, while grafted roses can only be propagated by grafting onto a “donor” rootstock.

The list of differences and advantages goes on, because our own root varieties:

resistant to low temperatures;
have more powerful immunity;
are distinguished by lush flowering;
do not form root shoots;
they do not run wild and can self-rejuvenate.

The disadvantages of growing and caring for self-rooted roses include difficulty in growing and a long period of growing the root system - at least two years. In this regard, young bushes, especially in winter period requires special care. Such plants are more demanding of soil and watering schedule.

Methods for propagating self-rooted roses

The most effective and in a productive way Propagation of self-rooted plants is considered to be green cuttings. Stem cuttings root quickly and reliably; moreover, such propagation does not require much space or knowledge of budding techniques.

To increase the reliability of green cuttings, you should choose plants with high rates of rooting of cuttings. These roses include the following varieties:

large-flowered climbing;
small-flowered climbing;
semi-climbing;
miniature.

Floribunda, polyanthus, remontant, hybrid tea and park roses take root slightly less well.

So that the roots do not rot, and the flowering is always lush and long, roses are planted on a hill, in a well-lit place.

Preparing planting material correctly

It is best to take cuttings from your own rooted roses in the spring, after the ground has completely thawed. If this did not work out in the spring, cuttings can be postponed until summer or autumn, although rooting is worse during these periods.

Preparation of cuttings consists of several stages:

Selection and cutting of annual completely healthy shoots into fragments of 20-25 cm with the obligatory removal of peduncles and lower leaves.
Keeping the resulting cuttings in a honey or manganese solution for disinfection and nutrition.
Dry the cuttings and trim the lower ends at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp tool, as close as possible to the lower bud.

The finished cuttings are planted in pots with peat soil, buried a few centimeters, that is, two buds. After this, the pots are buried in the soil up to the top edges. And water well. Watered cuttings are covered with a jar to create a greenhouse effect. The plants will spend about a month like this, you need to keep an eye on it. So that the walls of the jar are always covered with droplets of water. To do this, the jar is periodically removed for a short time, and the plants and soil are generously sprayed. This procedure is recommended to be carried out every three days.

You can remove the jar only when the green cuttings no longer fit under it. Plants also need to be acclimated to the sun gradually.

Planting rooted cuttings in the ground

Before planting rooted young roses in the ground, you should prepare the planting site in advance. To do this, dig a planting hole with a depth and a diameter of half a meter. A layer of expanded clay is poured onto the bottom, and then a layer of fertilizer made from humus with ash and dolomite flour. The finished rose is planted in this layer, carefully sprinkling the hole fertile soil, and water.

The nuances of caring for a rose garden

The main and regular steps for self-rooted roses are: proper watering, timely sanitization, pruning and fertilization. An alternative to watering in humid climates is loosening the soil and further saturating it with oxygen.

Watering rules include regular and abundant irrigation, since overdrying of the soil can negatively affect not only the above-ground part of the bush, but also its root system. Insufficient watering leads to crushing of flowers, loss of brightness of shades and lack of aroma. Watering is reduced only with the onset of autumn cold weather, and in the winter it is stopped completely.

Fertilizers should be applied according to the following scheme: at the beginning of summer - liquid organic matter with minerals twice a month, from mid-summer - twice a month nitrogen-containing compounds with potassium and phosphorus, which slow down the growth of stems.

If roses are no more than a year old, they can bloom only towards the end of the season, and will disappear into the snow with open flowers and buds. It's not scary, nah next year flowering will begin on time.

To help roses survive the winter, the bushes must be carefully pruned in the fall, carefully removing all tops and young branches. After pruning, it is best to hill up the bushes well, creating an earthen roller at least 20 cm high around the trunk.

As soon as the temperature on the thermometer drops below 10-15 degrees with a minus sign and the surface of the soil becomes hard, the rose should be carefully covered with spruce branches or dry leaves. Sawdust or pine needles are suitable as a replacement. The height of the shelter should be more than 20-25 cm. Remember to thoroughly moisten the soil around the bush first. In winter, you should be afraid not only of frost, but also of rodents, which do an excellent job with the shelter material, making nests in it and eating up trunks. To avoid this, you can first install a metal or plastic barrier made from cut canisters, buckets, or kegs around the bush.

Video “Pruning and covering roses for the winter”

As soon as the snow melts, all the shelter must be carefully removed so that the roots and trunks do not dry out. survive frosts, abundant soil moisture. But in the spring, it is necessary to promptly rid the bushes of spruce branches in order to prevent damping off of the soil and rotting of the roots. It is possible to unplant the bushes only in cases when night temperatures become positive.

Own-rooted or grafted: which is better?

This question cannot be answered unequivocally. Among amateurs there are many admirers of both types. Here you need to take into account, first of all, the climate and your own preferences. If winter temperatures rarely fall below zero, and the sun is too active, it is best to choose grafted roses for planting, and for northern latitudes, own-rooted varieties are more suitable.

Despite the troublesome and difficult cultivation, caring for roses is worth the effort. As a result, you will receive abundantly flowering, magnificent bushes that can decorate any area and delight the entire area with an incredible aroma. Such flowers - unique way create an unusual and spectacular landscape design.

When terms like “rooted roses” and “grafted roses” are used, novice gardeners have no idea what they are talking about. we're talking about, or rather, they do not see the difference between these two categories. Indeed, both roses are practically no different in appearance.

Is it better for a rose when it grows on its own roots? And what will happen if it is grafted onto other roots? Let's identify the differences between native root roses and grafted shrubs.

All about grafted roses

Many of the rose bushes on the market are presented to buyers as “grafted” rose bushes. They have the top of a variety that is usually not as hardy when grown on its own root system. The lower part - the rootstock - belongs to another, more hardy variety, and sometimes wild species roses

In order to determine whether a rose has been grafted or not, examine the lower part of the plant: a protrusion in the form of a thickened ring will be visible at the grafting site. Ungrafted roses will have the entire stem the same.

Let's look at an example. If we need strong roses, then the lower part of the grafted bush can have roots climbing rose, for example, R. Multiflora or the “Doctor Hugh” variety, which is extremely hardy and strong, and in addition, shoots very quickly and actively. Even top part For some reason it will die, the lower one will give new shoots. The only downside in this case will be that “Doctor Hugh” does not bloom as beautifully as we would like, so it will have to be grafted again.

Another good rootstock for grafting roses is Fortuniana. But it should be noted that in this case it is important not to forget about winter shelter, since these roses tolerate winter less easily. But at the same time, varieties grafted onto this type of rootstock produce flowering much more actively than those grafted onto R. Multiflora or Dr. Hugh.

So, when looking for rose bushes for your garden, remember that grafted bushes consist of two types of roses, so when the upper part dies, the lower buds and root shoots will not inherit the flowering properties. New plants may look like wild roses.

Roses on their own roots

“Own root” means that the rose bushes are grown on their own root systems. Some of these plants will be less hardy and more prone to disease until they mature. You can also find varieties that retain weak adaptation throughout their lives.

Before purchasing a rose with its own root system, you must make sure that the variety is guaranteed to be suitable for your conditions. In addition, do not forget that you can do the grafting yourself, so if you really like the plant, buy it, but only on condition that you have a good rootstock for it.

Most often you can find ungrafted dwarf (miniature) roses. They are indeed more tenacious than their tall, abundantly flowering relatives. Also, wild varieties of roses are not grafted, since they themselves are winter-hardy and strong against any disasters.

Conclusion: The advantage of roses growing on their own roots is the ability to maintain the purity of the variety, even if aboveground part will completely die. The advantage of grafted roses is resistance to cold and disease.

Which roses to choose, grafted or with their own roots?

Disputes on this topic have not subsided for a century. To decide, it is worth listening to both sides.

Flowering, early ripening.

Self-rooted roses . Most of the heritage (old varieties of roses) are grown on their own roots. Such plants take root well and grow from ordinary rooted cuttings obtained from original plants taken in old gardens. Self-root roses are propagated by rooting stem cuttings of one rose variety. Such plants will produce several new full-sized stems each year, reaching maximum height and width in 2-5 years, depending on the variety. It should be noted that they do not bloom immediately in accordance with the ripening period, but when they reach the flowering period they give a gorgeous result.
Grafted roses . Hybrid tea roses became popular in the 20th century, they were obtained by grafting onto another variety. The rootstock had already become a method of mass production of the desired variety. Roses are grafted onto a previously grown rootstock, so they usually reach mature size in 2-4 years. Those. you can save a whole year by getting early blooms.

Morbidity, survival rate. Grafted roses do not inherit, while roses with their own roots carry the disease with them when propagating. But from the point of view of survival, one can still argue here.

Self-rooted roses are usually sold in pots in moist soil all year round. When buying a seedling, you can absolutely say whether it is alive or no longer suitable for planting. This plant is very simple, the survival rate in this case is also high. Grafted roses can be sent for sale only in a dormant state, therefore, when purchasing such a plant, we will not be able to find out whether it has retained its viability until the bush comes out of dormancy after it has been planted. In addition, with self-rooted roses you will never have to bother with removing unwanted growth. At the same time, grafted roses require regular removal of new shoots, since they will not be varietal.

Survival . The rose's own root, if it dies from the cold, can produce new varietal shoots. After the death of the aboveground part of the grafted roses, you will have to vaccinate again. A number of experts believe that some varieties grow better on their own roots, while they bloom profusely and are more hardy. Others claim this about grafted roses. However, practice shows that young roses on their own roots at first are not strong enough to fight some diseases, while grafted seedlings show the opposite result.

Found another one interesting article:

Initially, flower growers bred roses only from their own roots. Then someone enterprising thought of making a T-shaped cut on the shoot of a wild rose and inserting the eye of another rose into it. There was a time when a cutting of a favorite rose was rooted under a pickle jar. Nurseries planted plots with hundreds of cuttings and waited for them to take root. The introduction of budding brought fundamental changes to the production of roses, and the process of breeding them was significantly accelerated. Latest methods allowed even weak roses to survive on their own roots and, thanks to the powerful roots of the rootstock, achieve marketability.

For several decades now, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budding (grafted) roses compared to their own roots. For many years, budding roses have been perceived as scientific achievement. But self-rooted roses also have many advantages: winter hardiness, disease resistance, abundant flowering. In addition, they do not form a rootstock.
The disadvantage of budding roses is that in the northern regions their cultivation requires a lot of effort, otherwise they will freeze in winter.

Preference for grafted or own-rooted roses is not only the result of personal preferences. Sometimes it all depends on what's on the market planting material: some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted, and the situation is constantly changing. Due to various transformations in economic system rose production, the world's main suppliers modern varieties, like producers of antique and collection roses, began to offer mainly their own root roses. The fact is that budding roses requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. But to simply plant shoots in the ground, you do not need qualifications, and such work can be mechanized in some part.

Endurance and health

The advertisement claims that the two main advantages of self-rooted roses are increased winter hardiness and resistance to the mosaic virus. However, since the virus spreads during the propagation process, using a cutting from a diseased plant will result in a rooted rose infected with the virus. On the other hand, if you graft healthy plant on a virus-free rootstock, the budded rose will be virus-free. Knowledgeable and responsible rose growers always work only with roses that are not infected with the virus, so it does not matter what breeding method they use.

When the production of budding roses moved from specialized nurseries to wholesalers, these plants began to be sold in the northern regions. Manufacturers recommended planting the rose so that the grafting site is 2.5 cm above the ground. However, there is experience that a budding rose, planted with a graft 2.5 cm below ground level, will be as winter-hardy as its own root.

It has already been proven that the endurance of a rose is determined by its genes. This means that if it is grown on its own roots, it will not become more resilient. George S. Thomas, an American rose grower of the early 20th century, conducted joint experiments with grafted and rooted roses. He ultimately concluded that rooted roses, with the exception of ramblers and species roses, required a climate “free of extremes of any kind” to succeed. This was written by a man who lived exclusively for roses and for roses (maybe that’s why his widow hired a bulldozer shortly after her husband’s death and destroyed all the roses), so his conclusions are trustworthy.

Both budding and self-rooted roses can suffer from problems that arise during the production process for various reasons. For example, budding roses grow very long from the grafted eye to the roots, which, as a rule, creates difficulties when planting in northern regions. At the same time, many of the company's customers were sent their own root roses with an undeveloped root system in small pots. Flower growers call such rooted cuttings “scrambles.” Of course, with very careful care and a lot of effort, they will turn out to be full-fledged plants, but you will have to work tirelessly.

Sometimes nurseries grow some roses on their own roots, offering them to customers as seedlings with a lush, attractive shape. It must be remembered that self-rooted roses rarely have a lush form, and this is only possible if a bushy variety was used for this breeding method.

When buying a varietal rose, flower growers, of course, expect to receive the same plant that nurseries once chose for introduction. However, some varieties, such as Peace and Amber Queen, can be seriously damaged by grafting with weak eyes. This happens either due to negligence or due to haste - if the nursery needed to receive a lot of seedlings in a short time. Such a decrease in the growth energy of budding roses is excluded when breeding rooted roses: a cutting with weak eyes simply will not produce a marketable seedling and, therefore, will not go on sale.

So which is better?

For experienced florist If you use the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether you buy a budding or your own rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian rose of the Explorer series - rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a specific variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, antique roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.

After planting, gardeners rarely think about the roots of roses, and in vain. If you carefully examine them, you will once again be convinced that both grafted and self-rooted roses have advantages. You often find that best plants were initially grafted, and over time began to grow on their own roots. The fact is that the roots have the ability to grow at the base of the trunk or on any part of the rose that is underground or touching it.

Taking into account all of the above and analyzed, we can draw the following conclusion: nothing accelerates the growth of a rose more than a powerful rootstock, but its own roots eliminate many problems when growing.

ROSES. ROOT OR GRAPTED. GROWTH.

Own root or grafted.

Grafted roses are now found on sale more often than own-rooted ones - this is due to the higher simple process production of grafted roses.

Nurseries take two-year-old rootstocks and, by grafting a rose onto them, within a year they receive fully grown, marketable seedlings.

Cuttings of roses need to be grown from scratch for several years. Large industries it is not profitable.

Both grafted and self-rooted roses have their advantages.

Some gardeners look exclusively for their own rooted roses, while others trust only grafted ones.

The choice is yours.

In our practice, both have proven themselves well, of course, with the right approach to their characteristics.

Growth rate and strength:

Grafted roses, in the first couple of years after planting, outstrip rooted roses in growth, just as they are grafted onto a rootstock that is already 2-3 years old.

In the first years, the own-rooted ones lag behind the grafted ones, gaining strength in the third or fourth year. Then it can even overtake the grafted rose in terms of growth and flowering.

Winter hardiness:

Winter hardiness depends on many factors. But, if we consider the same variety, on its own roots and grafted, then the self-rooted rose will be inferior to the grafted one only in the first couple of years. Then she gains strength and builds up root system not worse at all. Their winter hardiness is approximately equal.

Recovery:

If suddenly after harsh winter Rose bushes freeze slightly, then their own roots are restored from underground buds.

And a grafted rose, having frozen, will only produce rosehip shoots from under the ground. Although this problem can be solved by initially deepening the grafted rose bush. In this case, cultural renewal buds are preserved underground.

Overgrowth:

Another advantage of a self-rooted rose is that it does not produce wild shoots, as happens with a grafted rose.

Used as rootstocks for roses different kinds rose hips, only a few of them do not produce root shoots. Such growth must be removed in a timely manner so that it does not drown out the main bush.

Lifespan:

The lifespan of a grafted rose is 10-12 years at best. There is always a gradual separation of the scion from the rootstock. Depending on the quality of the graft and compatibility, this process takes different time, sometimes roses die within 3-5 years.

It is good if, when planting, the grafting was deepened (by 10 centimeters, depending on the soil) and the rose managed to move to its roots by the time the rootstock was rejected.

Self-rooted roses live much longer than grafted ones. With proper care, their age reaches 30-40 years.

Root system:

Self-rooted roses have a fibrous root system with shorter and more branched roots, located relatively shallowly, compared to the roots of rootstocks of grafted roses. Consequently, it is easier to fertilize and you can make a not very deep planting hole. This rose can grow on soils with close lying groundwater, where the grafted rose will not feel very good.

At the same time, a grafted rose has a long, tap root. It will suffer less from lack of moisture than a self-rooted rose.

Bloom:

It has been noticed that self-rooted roses bloom more intensely than grafted roses of the same variety by 10-15%.

In other respects (height, bush shape, color and other qualities of the variety) there are practically no differences.

Wild growth.

It happens that grafted roses grow wild shoots.

It grows below the grafting site, directly from the rootstock. It must be removed immediately by digging up the bush a little and cutting it out from the base.

It can be difficult for an inexperienced gardener to understand whether the growth is coming from the rootstock or whether it is a cultivated shoot.

Many people think that cultivated roses have a leaf consisting of five leaves, while rosehips have seven leaves. But that's not true. Among modern roses there are many varieties with seven and even nine leaves per leaf.

Therefore, before cutting out the shoot, make sure that it is really different from the main bush.

Wild growth is usually more dull and does not have reddish tint on young shoots, like many varietal roses.

Purchased roses often become wild over time.

The reason for this phenomenon is their grafting onto rose hips, the offspring of which begin to take nutrients, due to which the grafted variety gradually dies.

This can be avoided by growing own root roses, we’ll talk about this today in the next article in the “” section

The procedure is simple; both climbing and park roses take root equally well for me.

The main thing is to cut

In June, before the plants bloom, I cut annual shoots.

I cut each of them into several cuttings 15-20 cm long, remove the peduncles and 2 lower leaves.

After this, I keep the cuttings in a honey solution for 1 hour (1 teaspoon of honey per 1 liter of water), and then immediately plant them at an angle of 45 degrees, on a prepared bed with light, fertile soil.

I plant in such a way that the grown plants do not interfere with each other in the future. After planting, I water the cuttings well and cover them with plastic wrap.

Watering

For about a month, until the cuttings take root, I water them at least 2 times a week. Then I gradually open the film for ventilation: at first for no more than an hour in cloudy weather, gradually increasing the time and after a few days I remove the film completely.

Feeding roses

Every 2 weeks, I feed the rooted plants with an infusion of slurry (1:10) with the addition of 1 liter of ash (per 10 liters of solution). Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows and pull out the weeds. In the fall, with the onset of steady cold weather, I cover the bed with spruce branches, and in winter I sprinkle it with additional snow.

Transplanting roses to a permanent place

In the spring, when the soil thaws and warms up a little, I transplant the roses to a permanent place.

I dig a hole measuring 50x50 cm, lay drainage at the bottom (a little crushed stone or broken red brick), add 2-3 buckets of humus, 1 liter of ash. 300 g of superphosphate and a little dolomite flour, mix everything thoroughly and form into a mound. I install the seedling so that its apical root is 7-10 cm below the soil level. Then I fill it with the top fertile layer soil and water it abundantly.

Pest Control

When pests appear, I treat the bushes with Inga-Vir or Fufanon solution (according to the instructions) with the addition of liquid soap. I try to do this late in the evening, when the flight of bees and other beneficial insects stops.

Advice for rose growers:

For more long flowering Roses, pinch out strong annual shoots. Thanks to this, lateral growths with peduncles will appear on them.