Well, why else would I want to buy a music box? Then I saw a review, there I saw the mechanism - the puzzle came together and here it is on my table in a cute box.

You could already buy it on Aliexpress finished design, but then the toad woke up and started strangling me. Give more than 3 USD for a music box? If only it was made of gold and diamonds ( ok, cubic zirconia)...

It was decided to buy a musical mechanism and make the box ourselves.

Cost at the time of purchase: 2.9 USD

The mechanism was packaged in such a way that I thought at first that the seller had made a mistake and sent me the music box already in some kind of case. But when I unwrapped the package, it turned out that the bulk of it was packaging material. For what? ATTENTION: so that the cardboard box with the bow does not get wrinkled.

The mechanism itself is metal - it is unlikely that anything will happen to it, even if you step on it. Even the protruding part of the handle is very durable.

Everything is extremely simple. We take the mechanism, select or make the box ourselves, install the mechanism into the box with bolts... STOP! Where are the promised bolts?

I remembered about the bolts a week later, when I again went to look at the seller’s product description. In the photographs it has a mechanism with 3 bolts for fastening, but I received it without them. Where are my bolts???

I had to stick it to the bottom of the box with double-sided tape. And because my husband had a period called: " What else could be glued together with two-phase glue?", then the mechanism was placed on it for reliability. Is there a lot of glue left? It doesn’t matter... now we’ll seal the box tightly!

On my question: " Why did you seal the box itself?“There was no answer, the husband just shrugged his shoulders and smiled. I had to sigh languidly, shake my head and test the mechanism in action in the new case from the old Rocket watch.

I had to make a hole in the box for the pen. The Chinese Dremel easily coped with this task ( review will be). But why the husband needed to make a second hole again remained a mystery. The sound was exactly the same without it.

DESCRIPTION.

The mechanism and body are metal except for the plastic gears and inner drum. The knob rotates in both directions, but the sound only gives the correct direction.

Mechanism size 4.4 x 3.4 x 2 cm + rotating handle.

The pen has a movable tip for easy rotation.

The seller sent the order in random order and out of 6 melodies I got drum 002B with music - “Swan Lake Finale”.

There is a possibility that you can ask the seller to send a specific drum, but for this you need to know all their numbers and sounds. I was pleased with the seller's choice.

The sound will be loud if the mechanism is installed on hard surface. In the box the sound is doubled. If you play a music box in the kitchen, you can hear it even in the room.

The melody is pleasant, I only noticed one fib at the end, but maybe that’s how it should be. The faster you turn the handle, the faster the melody plays and vice versa: the slower you turn, the slower the drum rotates.

FOR A CHILD.

I bought the mechanism for various reasons:

1. I wanted to.
2. Child development.

What can a child’s music box mechanism develop:

• Logic and intelligence - where and how to turn to make the melody sound.
• Hearing - pleasant melodies with the right notes.
• The feeling of beauty - Swan Lake and the music from it are classics.
• Fine motor skills - the handle is small and you need to hold it tightly with your fingers.
• Sense of tact (rhythm) - rotating faster or slower sets the tempo.
• Fantasy, imagination - if you make the body together.

CONCLUSION.

I was pleased with the mechanism and the child liked the music box. I don't mind the money spent. There was an idea to make a music box in the style of decorating with pasta and cereals, coffee beans, quilling or appliqués...

When I calmed down my raging imagination, I realized that the child would not let the design last long and the most reasonable option for a music box would be a tightly sealed square watch box.

I wish you happy shopping!

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We will talk about a device that is very simple to manufacture (even for a novice amateur electronics engineer), but at the same time extremely interesting and useful - an electronic “music box”. Also, as an example, I will show and talk about one of the possible incarnations and applications of this device - about the last gift I made to my girlfriend based on it.

History of creation

There will be many letters here that relate to the matter rather indirectly, and if you want,

It all started a long time ago, several years ago, when I wanted to give a girl some interesting, original and memorable birthday gift. And definitely with your own hands. There was very little time left before the holiday, two days, during which it was necessary to come up with something and, in fact, implement it. The day was spent thinking - hundreds were spinning in my head variety of options, from all kinds of LED “flashing lights”-hearts, to various electro-mechanical crafts. But all this was not the same: either it was too simple and hackneyed, or, on the contrary, quite complicated (and there was absolutely no time left!). Suddenly a simple, but wonderful, as it turned out, idea came to my mind: why not make a musical card? And not a simple one, but with a “trick”, with an original melody. Moreover, we had “our own song” to which we met and which evoked in us all sorts of pleasant romantic memories and experiences.
This is how the very first version of the “music box” was born, the progenitor, so to speak. Very simple, assembled on a quick fix wall-mounted from PIC12F675, piezodynamics, photodiode, a pair of resistors, a three-volt element 2016 and packaged in a postcard drawn in Photoshop. As a result, this postcard was able to write out that same melody in a rectangle when opened (and the light hit the photodiode). Just like that, unpretentious and simple.
But the idea turned out to be extremely successful, many times more than I expected. Subsequently, I made several more such simple cards at the request of my friends, for their other halves. And in each case, such a gift evoked a lot of emotions both among the recipients themselves and among their parents, girlfriends and acquaintances :)
Quite a lot of time passed, everything started to spin, the project was forgotten. But it so happened that I remembered the music box again. This time it was supposed to be a gift for March 8th. At that time, I was actively studying Atmel microcontrollers, in particular playing with the ATtiny45, and decided to improve the music module for this purpose. Moreover, this time there was a lot of time. That's where it all started.
Looking for various information On the Internet, I came across Mr. Chan’s website, widely known in narrow circles. More specifically, one of his designs, a miniature synthesizer, just on my favorite MK :) Some time ago I almost finished a four-channel synthesizer on PIC18, but, alas, I destroyed the work in my heart (which I later regretted more than once). And Chan’s design was completely self-sufficient and complete. All that remained was to add a “trigger mechanism” to it and off we went!
I updated the code a little and the trigger mechanism was ready. But then everything turned out to be somewhat less rosy. The main problem with the design was that it sounded too quiet. No matter how hard I tried, with direct drive of the speaker from the MK pins it turned out quiet and that’s it! As a result, a strong-willed decision was made to add a power amplifier. The choice fell on the LM4900, then available in Terraelectronics. Again, we had to make some more changes to Mr. Chan’s code in order for the synthesizer to work correctly with an external amplifier - make a power-saving leg control so that the amplifier does not eat up the battery when idle, and reconfigure the PWM to correctly output the signal from one pin. After these changes, the prototype worked just perfectly. Then I drew the first version of the board (which, as it turned out later, had a bug in it:) and assembled the music box like a human being. Next, everything follows the beaten path - a homemade postcard, installation of the module and donation.
Of course, this device was several heads higher than the previous ones - the very realistic sound of a “real” box and the polyphony made itself felt :) The gift, as in previous times, a long time ago, caused a sensation. And I also collected about a dozen such modules for friends.

Now about the device itself

The current version of the module, the third, contains several more changes and one interesting innovation - light and sound channel, to which you can connect, for example, an LED. But first things first.

Let's start with the diagram, it is very simple:

Its heart is a microcontroller ATtiny45/85. He is actually involved in the synthesis of music, controls the light and music channel and energy saving of the amplifier. The second most important element is the audio power amplifier TPA301D. Connected to amplifier speaker, which is outside the module. There's also a transistor BC847, controlling the light and music channel and several passive elements - resistors and capacitors. All this is powered by 2-3 alkaline elements (for example, AAA) located in the external battery pack(the most common, Chinese). As you can see, the scheme is really elementary.

Operating principle of the circuit

Most of the time the device is in sleep mode. The MK falls asleep at the command of the firmware immediately after turning it on, having previously “put to sleep” the amplifier by installing it on its leg "SHUTDOWN" high level(by connecting a weak leg brace "PB0" to “+” power supply inside the MK). MK wakes up when interrupted by foot "PB2/INT0". Initially, the leg is also pulled up to the “+” power supply inside the MK and it must be short-circuited to the ground.
From the “PB1/OC1A” pin of the MK, the audio PWM signal, in order to filter it from the carrier, passes through a simple second-order RC filter ( R2-C3), which must be calculated (and in our case it can be simply “estimated”) for a cutoff frequency that is much lower (ten times) than the carrier frequency. And the filtered signal, through a blocking capacitor C2, is already supplied to the amplifier input.
The MK also controls an additional light and music channel. An NPN transistor is used for this. Q1 V key mode, the base of which is connected to the MK leg "PB4/OC1B" through a current limiting resistor R1. There may also be a limiting resistor in the collector circuit ( R3) - will not be superfluous. The transistor is also controlled by a PWM signal. Everything is done very simply - in best traditions"blinking" LEDs from the Arduino :)
The power supply is decoupling tantalum ( C1), the simplest amplifier kit that acts as a decoupler ( C4), and adjusting the gain (volume), in general, can be found in the datasheet for the amplifier. If necessary, the gain can be calculated quite accurately using the most common method for op amps for the ratio of the resistances of the input resistor R4 and resistor feedback R5, since it can be useful to adjust the volume for a specific speaker or design.

Printed circuit board

Simple as hell, drawn in DipTrace:


This is already the third version, which takes into account all the previous shortcomings.
The board is designed for surface mounting and is single-sided, which greatly simplifies the process of installing it. homemade. You can use any method: laser-iron, photo method, or even draw paths with a marker (not for everyone, of course).
All elements are 0805 (including “zero” jumpers), tantalum - A or B, a transistor in SOT23 and an MK with an amplifier in SO-8. All “peripheral” components - battery pack, speaker, LEDs and button (photoresistor, reed switch) are soldered to the corresponding “circles” on the board. That's all.

Software part

A little about sound synthesis

You can clearly read about the synthesis method used in the device in the original from Mr. Chan. You can also google “wavetable synthesis”. If you don’t speak the language, then in short, the audio sound is stored in the MK’s memory. sample(separate sound), so-called. "wavetable", which in our simplest case is conditionally divided into two logical parts, generally forming "envelope" - "attack", the beginning of each new sound, and "sustain", exposure, a fragment constantly looped throughout the sound of the note. Is there some more "decay", “follow-up”, the part that sounds after the note is taken down. In our case, it is simply implemented by gradually fading the sound of “sustain.” The MK has a timer that causes an interruption at a certain frequency, where, in accordance with the current position along the “envelope” and the pitch of the note, the note is selected desired value from sample memory. Moreover, in this way you can synthesize several channels (that is, notes) at the same time, everything depends only on the computing power of the MK and the sampling frequency (sound quality). Then these values ​​are mixed and sent “to the output” (in our case, to the PWM control register). All this disgrace, as I mentioned above, is called “Wavetable synthesis” or “table-wave synthesis”.

The core of Mr. Chan's synthesis remains virtually unchanged. I only changed the PWM output method a little, due to the abandonment of “ direct drive» dynamics with MK. I added a “trigger mechanism”, energy saving control for the MK and amplifier, and also wrote code for controlling the light and music channel, which works this way: based on a special event from the score, the LED “lights” in the right places, and then smoothly “extinguishes” it. Well, I “ported” (that’s a strong word, of course) the code to Studio, for convenience.
The code is written in AVR assembler and consists of several files: "mbox.asm"- actually, the program itself; "notes_pitch.inc"- indicating the correspondence of the mnemonic names of the notes used in the score to the increment coefficients of the pointer position in the sample (that is, as a result, the pitch); "wavetable.inc"- sample data (“table”) and attenuation curve “decay”; A "score.inc", as you probably guessed by the name, contains the score of the work being performed, “notes”.
Initially, in “wavetable.inc” Chan himself “hammered” the sound of the box. But if necessary and desired, it can be changed to any other using an auxiliary script "wav2asm.pl", or just with your hands.
The situation was more complicated with the score. Initially, they were supposed to be written by hand, which will undoubtedly bring a lot of pleasure to masochistic people, especially if the score is not at all simple.
For a person who is going to use his own score and, presumably, has at least some familiarity with music and notation, it would be easier to draw the score in any available music editor and use it in some way. For this I wrote a special converter program, which takes as input a midi file of format 0, and as output gives the finished file “score.inc”. It can also independently arrange LED lighting events for all notes found in the first channel, that is, if the melody is initially logically separated from the accompaniment and placed in the first channel of the midi file, then we will get a score that will light the LED in time with the melody, if we want and check the box. In fact, this is perhaps one of the most beautiful options operation of the additional channel.
The program can also transpose the resulting score one or two octaves up/down, which in certain cases can greatly facilitate the work of writing the score.
The program interface looks simple, clear and unpretentious, and Delphi sources are included in the kit:

By the way, as someone suggested to me at the time (for some reason I didn’t think about it at all), there are a lot of resources on the Internet where you can get ready-made midishkas with the desired melodies. They will only need a little modification to be used in my converter. And some may not even need to be modified.

What else could you need?

Let's say you bought/obtained all the necessary components, made a board in one way or another, or, as an option, simply soldered everything by surface mounting. What else will you need? You will need a programmer. If you have had or are dealing with an AVR, then you most likely already have one. And so, for example, “USBasp” in hundreds of incarnations or any other will do. There is nothing supernatural here. The archive with everything contains an already compiled binary, which can be immediately uploaded to the controller and used if there are no intentions to edit or rebuild anything.

Application

And now, as promised, I will tell and show one of the hundreds possible applications module, Kawasaki musical rose.
Rose Kawasaki, one of the masterpieces of origami, is generally a separate big topic, which you can fully familiarize yourself with on the Internet.
Structurally, the thing itself is made of two parts:
First, rose, folded from a colored sheet of paper and glued onto a twisted stem with leaves (also folded from colored paper). There is a thick copper wire running inside the stem (for strength) and a small neodymium magnet is hidden at the very bottom.
Second part, vase, cut and glued from thick white cardboard. Inside it is installed the module itself, a speaker (glued to a resonating volume filled with cotton wool), super-bright white wide-angle LEDs matted with fine sandpaper and a battery pack attached to the bottom of the vase for easy access to the batteries. And, of course, the reed switch is a “trigger mechanism” that works in tandem with a magnet in the stem. It is installed in such a way that the module is activated when the rose is removed from the vase.
Schematically it looks something like this:

Here are a couple of photos of the prototype:

And a video of the work. The video plays the composition “Tenderness”, which I arranged for the box, and which is included in the archive as the source (typed in Sibelius) and middling, as well as the finished generated score:

As usual, my eternal problem with normal sound in video makes itself felt. A thousand apologies. If you are interested in hearing how the design sounds in normal quality, you can download the empetrishka from here.
This is just one of the possible uses of the design. How you use your module will depend on your imagination ;)
I can only wish you success in this difficult creative endeavor.
Give joy to your loved ones!

Disclaimer and thanks :)

P.S. This is my first post here, so please don’t kick me too hard if I’m wrong about something or somehow.
P.P.S. I have already published this material partially and in scattered form on my LiveJournal, more for myself, to note some points and leave a reminder, but since the device turned out to be very interesting and successful, and there have already been several modifications of this device in almost a couple of dozen incarnations with have more than fulfilled (and continue to fulfill) their purpose - they delight the ears and eyes of girls - then I decided to tell you about it too.
P.P.P.S. Also, my friend has been encouraging me to write about the following device here on Habré for a long time, and finally, I gathered my strength, compiled the material and decided to write this post, for which I thank Dlinny a lot!

People who prefer to make memorabilia and gifts themselves sooner or later think about how to make a box with their own hands. To do this, you do not need to have any special skills in a particular field. To work, you will need a set of tools and available materials: cardboard, fabric, plywood, glass, etc. You can also use old postcards or a tin of cookies or tea.

Homemade box in the form of a cardboard book

You can make a cardboard box in just a few hours. For this you will need following materials and tools:

• binding cardboard;
• a piece of cotton fabric measuring 300 mm x 600 mm;
• thin padding polyester;
• scrap paper 300 mm x 300 mm;
• cotton lace 300 mm long and 30 mm wide, metal frame for decoration, etc.;
• quick-drying and non-marking adhesive;
• Double-sided tape;
• scissors;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• iron ruler.

All work is divided into several stages:

• preparatory;
• making the base;
• creating a “cover”;
• decoration.

Preparatory work

At this stage, you need to make all the necessary blanks from cardboard, fabric, padding polyester and paper for interior decoration. Eight elements need to be cut from the binding cardboard:

• 170 mm x 115 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 170 mm x 30 mm - 1 pc.;
• 160 mm x 110 mm - 1 pc.;
• 160 mm x 40 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 108 mm x 40 mm - 2 pcs.

Make blanks from padding polyester in advance with the following dimensions:

• 400 mm x 40 mm;
• 170 mm x 115 mm;
• 170 mm x 30 mm.

Working with the frame

Algorithm of actions:

Making the “cover”

Procedure:

Decor

To decorate a future box, it is advisable to choose any elements you like that can be sewn or glued. In this case, a tag, a metal frame and lace were used.

Procedure:

From postcards

From old postcards with a similar theme, you can make a “chest” for storing photos. Necessary materials and tools:

• old postcards;
• threads (floss, knitting, iris);
• needle with a wide eye;
• scissors;
• pencil;
• ruler.

For manufacturing, it is advisable to use the drawings:

Using these drawings you need to create patterns. To do this, you need to transfer the elements onto postcards and cut out the details along the contour.

Algorithm of actions:

Classic plywood

For beginning craftsmen, the easiest way to make a box is from plywood. Required materials and tools:

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding directly to making the box, you need to cut several blanks from plywood with the following dimensions:

• 23 cm x 14 cm - 1 pc. (bottom of the box);
• 14 x 7 cm - 2 pcs. (end sides);
• 25 cm x 7 cm - 2 pcs. (sidewalls);
• 25 cm x 16 cm - 1 pc. (lid);
• 14 cm x 4 cm - 2 pcs. (external partitions);
• 14 cm x 9 cm - 1 pc. (outer cover No. 1);
• 14 x 7.5 cm - 1 pc. (outer cover No. 2).

You also need to make the parts in advance for assembling the small box, which will be located inside the box:

• 4.5 cm x 4.5 cm - 4 pcs.;
• 4.5 cm x 6 cm - 2 pcs.;
• 6 cm x 6 cm - 1 pc.

When cutting plywood with a jigsaw, the edges are uneven. Therefore, they need to be sanded, as well as the surface of the walls that will be inside the box.

Assembling the outer frame

At this stage it is necessary to assemble the base. Procedure:

Making a small box and a large lid

Procedure:

1. Make a small box using the same principle as a large one.

Firing and staining

Algorithm of actions:

1. Lightly burn the workpiece to form beautiful scorch marks.

To Work with blowtorch need to be very careful. Plywood should only be burned lightly to avoid the formation of unsightly burnt chips.

Glass wedding

Glass ring box can become a good gift for a wedding. For work you will need the following tools and materials:

• window glass 3 mm thick or stained glass;
• glass cutter;
• soldering iron;
• Sander;
• blue permanent marker;
• ruler;
• copper foil with black backing;
• flux;
• alcohol;
• natural sponge;
• solder;
• antioxidant.

The wedding box is made in the shape of an open icosahedron, which consists of regular triangles with sides equal to 6.5 cm and a height of 5.6 cm. To cut the glass correctly, you will need a pattern.

Procedure:

1. Place the pattern on the glass and trace the outlines with a marker.

2. Cut out the glass triangle along the contour using a glass cutter and a ruler. You need to press it hard enough to get even edges.

3. Turn the glass over reverse side, place it on the ruler and press to break off the resulting part.

4. Using the pattern, cut out all the other glass elements of the box. There should be 15 triangles in total.

5. Inspect the edges of the parts for chips and irregularities.

6. To make the parts perfectly smooth, the edges should be sanded using a special grinder. In this case, you need to cover your eyes with safety glasses to prevent small fragments from getting into them.

7. The treated pieces of glass must be rinsed with water and dried naturally on a paper towel.

8. Before proceeding to decorating the elements with copper foil, you need to wipe each piece of glass with alcohol.

9. To decorate the details of the box with foil carefully, the glass must be placed in the middle of the ribbon.

10. Wrap the edges of the triangle with foil, pressing it tightly to the surface and smoothing it with any flat object.

11. Carry out this operation with all other parts.

12. Now you need to treat the edges with flux. To do this, you can use a cotton swab or brush.

13. Using a soldering iron, apply solder to the edges of the parts. It is important to ensure that the glass does not crack due to high temperature. During operation, the soldering iron must be periodically wiped with a sponge to remove burnt tin and carbon deposits from it.

14. Now is the time to start assembling the box. Parts are placed in angles.

15. To connect them together, you need to apply solder using a soldering iron at two points.

16. Gradually assemble the entire box.

17. Internal seams also need to be sealed so that they are even.

18. Make the external seams more voluminous by applying several layers of solder to them.

19. Sand the seams with steel wool until smooth.

20. Treat with an antioxidant to prevent oxidation and add shine.

With musical mechanism

A music box can be a great birthday gift. And for this you don’t have to buy it in a store; it’s easier to make it yourself.

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• tin can (can be used for cookies or tea);
• putty for metal;
• acrylic primer;
• PVA glue;
• Matt lacquer;
• decoupage card with notes (or napkin);
• compressed cardboard 3 mm thick;
• velvet;
• jigsaw with jewelry file;
• scissors;
• brushes;
• glue gun;
• glue stick;
• ruler;

pencil.

You will also need a ready-made musical mechanism. It can be taken from old toy or buy at a specialty store.

All work will be divided into the following stages:

1. Formation of the external frame.
2. Interior decoration.

Tin can box base

Algorithm of actions:

1. Cover the surface of the can with automotive putty. After drying, sand and coat with primer in 1–2 layers.

2. Cover all parts of the box with decoupage napkin. You need to cut a circle with the same diameter as the lid, taking into account the height and making a margin of 1-2 cm. Apply glue to the tin surface with a brush, apply a napkin, and smooth it out so that there are no wrinkles. Using the same principle, decorate the lower part of the box.

3. Make a hole for the musical mechanism where the key will be inserted.

4. After the surface has dried, you need to cover it with matte varnish in two layers. The frame of the box is ready.

Interior decoration

Procedure:

1. Cut out the bottom from cardboard. To cover it, you need to make a circle of velvet with the same diameter, but leave a small allowance. Glue the fabric to the cardboard base using a glue stick.

2. You will also need a box for the musical mechanism and a side panel. They are made according to the same principle as the bottom.

3. Secure the velvet parts inside the box using a glue gun. First place the musical mechanism under the box.

4. If desired, additional compartments can be made from cardboard and velvet, for example, in the form of a box with an opening lid or a bag with drawstrings. And trim the outer sides with velvet ribbon.

5. On inner surface The lids can be glued with a photo or any picture you like with a cardboard base, which needs to be coated with acrylic varnish. To hide the edges, attach a velvet ribbon and a satin cord around the perimeter of the circle, and hide the joint under a bow.

Making a box with your own hands from scrap materials is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. And suitable decor will help give it a finished look: beads, old unnecessary jewelry, stones for jewelry, buttons, shells, ribbons, labels, etc.

Our little princess, my beloved niece, is approaching her first birthday. For her mother’s (my little sister’s) birthday in February, the children broke our baby’s favorite musical toy, glass bowl with bears. And I didn’t let the musical mechanism be thrown out of it with the expectation that I would come up with something. And so I decided to make a box. Girls love boxes. I'm a girl myself and I know :) While our Sonechka is little, mom will collect the girls' favorite treasures in the form of beads, rings and bracelets.
One of my hobbies is boxes self made, and over the long time that I’ve been doing this, I’ve already accumulated a lot of all sorts of materials.
So. We need a tin of cookies or sweets. You can also just buy a tin can. You can now find any jars in craft stores. I found cans in a tea and coffee shop. Just banks. But this time I got a cookie jar from the Spartak confectionery factory. She's big. The diameter is 22 cm, and the height is 7.5 cm.

Metal putty, acrylic primer, acrylic lacquer, PVA glue, brushes, decoupage rice card with notes (the rice card can be replaced with a decoupage napkin), scissors, musical mechanism. We also need a glue gun and a glue stick. I love working with rice pads and cards. Under the influence of glue they do not tear or deform. And they have a pleasant texture to the touch. Everything else will be selected as we go. Sometimes at the very beginning I don’t know what the result will be. That is, usually at the very beginning there is some theory, but very often during the work something changes.
But my bank has one significant drawback. The surface of the lid is not smooth. There are cookies squeezed out on it. So I took automotive metal putty and smoothed the whole thing out. There are no photos of the process, since there was no one to take photographs, and besides, the putty smells extremely strong and unpleasant. When the putty has dried, it needs to be sanded. I deliberately did not sand it to perfect evenness and smoothness.

Then we cover our entire future box with primer in one, or better yet, two layers. The second layer is applied only after the first layer has dried thoroughly. I think there is no need to explain why soil is needed.

So everything dried up. It's our napkin's turn. First we glue the lid. We remember the lessons of labor in primary school. Cut out a circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the top of the lid plus the height of the lid plus a couple of centimeters just in case. Apply glue to the lid with a brush and carefully place our circle on top part lids, smooth them out so that there are no wrinkles. Very carefully so as not to tear. Unfortunately, there are no photos of the process, since there was no one to take photographs. We have leveled it on the top part, now we take the lid in our hands and carefully, moistening it in glue, use a brush to glue the card to the side walls of the lid. In the same way we paste over the lower part of our future box. It's easier here. You need a strip with the height from the stop rim to the bottom plus the height to the bottom. I have plus 5 mm to the main length. And a circle. We put our box on the map and outline it with a pencil. Let it dry.

It took me several hours to dry. The glue must be completely dry before applying varnish. Otherwise the varnish will stick to your hands. I bought at hardware store wood varnish. Special varnishes for decoupage have failed me more than once. They are expensive and stick to your hands finished product. So I went and bought varnish at a hardware store. I don't like gloss, so when choosing a varnish, I settled on a varnish that has a matte surface.

Means, next step Varnish will be applied. The varnish must be applied strictly according to the instructions. In two layers. Dry each layer thoroughly.

Here you go. Dried. Now the fun begins. At the very beginning, I forgot to make a hole for the musical mechanism, so I had to make the hole after applying the varnish. Make the hole very carefully. I neglected safety precautions and drove a screwdriver into my finger directly into the vein. Having filled the hole with peroxide and with difficulty stopping the bleeding, I began to attach the musical mechanism. Since I was slightly injured, I forgot to take a photo. this process. Then it turned out that the key that a watchmaker I knew had picked up for me was very large and ugly. And then, with the help of my charm, I persuaded a turner I knew to make me a small key made of brass. Here he is handsome.

So. Now let's start working on the interior "decoration". First of all, you need to finish the walls, bottom and hide the mechanism. We take cardboard and cut out the parts. Somewhere a long time ago I dug up a very cool compressed cardboard 3 mm thick. From it I cut out parts that will hide the mechanism. The bottom and sides were cut out of cardboard with a density of 300 g/m2. We cut out the same parts only with an allowance from velvet. Here are the details. Take a glue stick and velvet. I really like gluing fabric to cardboard with a glue stick. I buy expensive pencils from Kohinoor or Erich Krause. But now, as luck would have it, I couldn’t find either one and again bought the most expensive glue stick at a hardware store. German manufacturer. I took it at my own peril and risk, but it paid off. So, we apply glue to the cardboard and apply velvet. Let it dry and glue the seams. Something like this.

Sidewall

This is a box for the mechanism

back side

Donyshko

Using a glue gun, secure the velvet parts inside the box. Already in finished form.

Next we make a drawer for small items. Initially, I wanted to make a box that would be like a continuation of the box for the mechanism. But when I tried everything on, I realized that it turned out to be some kind of garbage and decided to make the drawer separately. I cut out a sector of the circle (lid) and a wall from thick cardboard. I glued them together at a distance of 4 mm from each other so that the structure bends. I trimmed the velvet along the edge. I sewed the edges of the velvet with a thread and a needle. And she secured everything inside the box. Everything seemed pale to me, so I used a glue gun to secure brown satin cord along the joints. The beads act as a stopper to prevent the lid from falling through.

We paste on both sides. Bends.

Sewing the edges

I looked at the result and decided to add another compartment. And to make it interesting (I’m making a box for a girl), instead of a lid I made an imitation of a bag that is tied with a satin cord. Everything is attached with a glue gun. Here you go. It seems like nothing is wrong.

Now with a bag

Now you need to decorate the outside of the box. I honestly and for a long time and in different places looked for the braid that I needed, but I couldn’t find it. And so I bought what I had to make something that would suit me. Organza ribbon, satin cord and velvet strip. I took an organza ribbon and ironed it with adhesive tape to glue the velvet strip onto it. I glued all this beauty to the box with a glue gun. Something is missing. Pale. Then I used a glue gun to glue the satin cord along the edge of the velvet ribbon. I made a bow from velvet and organza ribbon and attached it next to the key. This way I hid the junction of the braid and hid the key a little.