When you get an apartment, you undoubtedly want to make it cozier, more comfortable and larger. Nowadays, one of the ways to make your home appear larger is to create arches instead of doors.

Various photos of arches show how varied they are and how much they change appearance housing. How to make an arch with your own hands will be briefly described below.

Types of arches

An arch is an opening in a wall that does not have a ceiling in the form of a door. Their types differ only top part, or more precisely, by how the corners are constructed (straight, rounded or curly).

IN modern world There are 7 types of arches:

• classic;
• "modern";
• "romance";
• ellipse;
• trapezoid;
• "portal";
• semi-arch.

The first four types have rounded corners and differ only in the shape of the rounding.

So a classic arch is a semicircle with a radius of half the width of the opening; “modern” has a small corner radius; “romantic” and ellipse are similar to each other and represent ordinary rounded corners.

The trapezoid and the portal are another matter. These two types use sharp corners. In a trapezoid, the top accordingly represents this figure, and the “portal” is an ordinary opening without a door.

However, even an unremarkable “portal” can be made to sparkle with new colors, giving the supports the appearance of columns in the ancient style (Greek or Roman).

Although the trapezoid is quite unusual solution, but will not suit any style, so it is used much less often than other arch options.

The last type is a semi-arch, as the name implies, it consists of 1 rounded and 1 right angle. This type of arch began to be used recently, but it has already gained popularity.

It is up to you to decide which arch to install in your apartment, but we will dwell in more detail on arches made of plasterboard, as the most convenient material for construction.

Step-by-step instructions for creating an arch

We choose the future shape of the arch. It is important that she approaches general style premises that will connect.

We clean the opening from the plaster and level it. It’s simple here - the cleaner the surface of the work, the more reliable the fastening.

We fasten the arch frame. We construct the frame itself from a profile (possibly from wooden blocks).

We attach a cut out plasterboard arch (one side) to the frame. To get the arch the desired type, in the middle of the plasterboard base we make a hole for a nail. We tie a string to it and get a homemade compass. Now, by changing the length of the rope, you can change the radius of rounding of the corners and their appearance.

We apply drywall on the other side and mark an arch on it, like a stencil, then cut it out and attach it to the frame.

Under no circumstances should this be done on the floor, since the opening is usually asymmetrical, which has the most detrimental effect on the accuracy of the one-to-one markings.

Note!

We measure the resulting arc and use the profile to make a tape for fastening. After this, we attach the resulting tape to the arch arch using self-tapping screws.

We install jumpers. Their size is calculated simply: arch depth minus 1.5 centimeters, material of manufacture - metallic profile, less often a tree. We attach a sheet of drywall to the end of the opening with self-tapping screws.

We carry out Finishing work(we smooth it out with putty, fill in possible holes, paint or glue wallpaper).

Other ways to make an arch

You can also make an arch in the opening in two other ways. The difference between these methods of creating an arch is in the fastening of drywall.

In the second option, it is attached to the jumpers not with a whole sheet, but with specially cut pieces (set) using a special solution (water, putty plus PVA glue) and this must be done without delay, since the solution hardens very quickly.

Note!

The third option involves wooden lintels mounted on glue. Drywall in the opening to the lintels is also glued.

How to bend drywall?

In addition, the question may arise: how to bend drywall? Thin cardboard (6 mm) is best suited for this.

And there are at least 2 ways to bend it:
Method 1 - roll a roller on cardboard to break the plaster in it, soak it in water and gradually screw it to the tape with self-tapping screws.

Method 2 – make cuts on the drywall every 4-5 centimeters. When you attach it to the end of the opening, the material will burst at the places where the cuts are made and will adhere better to the wall surface.

We wish you good luck in completing your work!

Photo of the arch with your own hands

Note!

In ancient times, arches symbolized the firmament, the road of life, freedom, victory (triumphal arches among the Romans), protection (the arched form of city gates among the Slavs). And now designs of this type have not been forgotten, and most importantly, they are not difficult to make. So, a unique arch in the apartment and at the same time - with your own hands!

Create an arch of any shape

In apartments with a standard layout, the arch performs both decorative and practical functions - it separates neighboring rooms, making them more spacious, original, and organic. It also highlights functional areas, creates an atmosphere of coziness and comfort in the interior.

If the decision to make an arch with your own hands is made, you will first have to solve a number of questions, the answers to which will affect the financial and time costs.

Should I make one arch or several? Successful design move– make both the door and window openings arched. An interesting choice is the use of identically shaped door openings and wall niches. The column and arch look original together.

What size should I make the arch? Its parameters match the dimensions of the doorway or slightly exceed it. If the design is made on the entire wall, then we're talking about already about the vault, not the arch.

Shape selection arched design depends on design and style and is limited only by imagination. Choose from the main directions:

• round (semicircular) arch - a classic, common option;
• Arabian (Moorish, resembles a horseshoe);
• pointed - two arcs intersect in one corner;
• concave - convex arcs go inside the opening;
• keeled - a semicircle with a pointed corner at the top;
• elliptical - the upper part of such a structure is an ellipse;
• parabolic - the upper part is made in the form of a parabola.

These are not all the options, but if the goal is to make an arch with your own hands, then preference is given to the traditional semicircular shape.

Classic (round or semicircular) arch

The choice of material is not limited: everything is used - from plywood to brick, but plasterboard remains the “top” due to its relative cheapness and versatility (it allows you to make an arch of any complexity and shape in doorway), ease of finishing and speed of DIY installation.

The work will involve arched plasterboard(GKLA), due to the use of durable cardboard and reinforced fiberglass, this material is easily bent without damage.

How to make a plasterboard arch in a doorway with your own hands?

The operating algorithm is as follows:

1. Preparing a cardboard mockup

The first stage in finishing the doorway is preparatory. It is associated with taking measurements and making a template for the future arch.

Experiment by drawing the outlines of the planned structure on the wall, this will allow you to clearly visualize the result.

The installed arch will visually reduce the opening by 20 centimeters, so if its size cannot be increased, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​​​installing an arch. Otherwise, instead of a noble arched structure, you will end up with a “hole in a hole.”

Removing the door frame

So, the arch visually reduces the opening, conclusion - increase the size if the ceiling height allows. How to determine how much? Do this so that the height of the expanded opening exceeds the top point of the planned arch by five centimeters.

An important condition for ensuring good result– evenness and verticality of the walls. Otherwise, the arch will turn out skewed. Conclusion - the walls are pre-finished with plaster and allowed to dry.

After expanding the doorway, prepare the surface by smoothing out uneven areas, get rid of excess material, removing dust and dirt.

Doorways in load-bearing wall may not be altered without appropriate permits.

This is how a profile is cut

Installation of an arched structure

Making a frame yourself is not that easy, but it is quite possible. For this, builders recommend using a U-type metal profile (the so-called pawn, or more precisely, a 27/28 guide profile).

The size of the guides is determined by the width of the arch, quantity - 2 pcs. Install the frame on both sides of the doorway, slightly deeper inside (after fastening the drywall and applying putty, it will be flush with the wall).

Starting from the top, attach the first profile, then be sure to mount the second parallel to the first. Then they fix it on the sides, from top corner to the rounding point of the arch.

In order for the profile to bend effortlessly, cuts are made on it at an average interval of 6.5 cm, for which metal scissors are used.

You can give the profile the desired shape by bending it according to the layout. When the frame arc is ready, it is attached to the ceiling and walls.

An example of bending a metal profile according to the layout

The profile frame is fastened to brick or concrete walls with dowels; self-tapping screws are also suitable for wooden ones.

Preparing drywall for installation in an arched frame structure

Draw a curved arch line using two identical plasterboard sheet. If you don’t have a compass, use the means at hand - an awl (or self-tapping screw), thin rope and with a simple pencil or a ready-made flexible workpiece.

Make two identical halves along the intended line using a metal file (a simple hacksaw or electric jigsaw).

The process of cutting drywall along an arc line

Bend drywall

To finish the lower end side of the arched arc, cut a strip of a given size and bend it. For deformation, it is recommended to place a weight on the sides of the strip. To simplify the procedure, drywall is moistened with water and the surface is pierced with a needle roller.

Next, the still wet deformed strip is attached, starting from the middle of the arch, fixing it with metal screws along both sides. In accordance with the work technology, the drywall is allowed to dry. The time allocated for this is 12 hours.

Bending drywall with a weight

Treatment

The final stage of the main work - finishing. All joints of the arch are finished with putty, glued with reinforcing tape and puttied. Next comes step-by-step sanding and priming.

Decorative finishing

The culmination of the process of making an arch with your own hands is its decoration.

Video to help craftsmen:

How to finish an arch

The even shape of the arched structure in the apartment is half the success; finishing is no less important. You can decorate the finished arch with decorative narrow stone. A budget option– use of plaster, wallpaper, paint and varnish materials, decorative plaster. The flight of fancy is not limited. Decorate the arches by installing lighting or stained glass.

In contact with

Once upon a time, only a professional could make an arch. This was before the advent of drywall. Now even a beginner can make an arch from plasterboard. You don’t need a special tool for this, the technology itself is simple and straightforward - just follow our instructions.

Where to begin

The most common arches simple shapes- parts of a circle or oval. These are the ones that are best suited for most traditional styles interior where you are welcome correct forms and symmetry. In addition, they are easiest to make with your own hands.

1. Classic round arch. 2. Modern. 3. Romance. 4. Ellipse. 5. Trapezoid. 6. Half-arch

But first you need to decide whether the height of the arch will be sufficient. And if for a niche in the wall the dimensions do not play a special role, then for the passage between rooms the ratio of the width of the arch and the distance from the floor to the point where the arch meets the wall of the opening matters a lot.

The wider the opening in which the arch is formed, the larger the bending radius will be required so that the shape of the arch is proportionate

Usually they are guided by the simple ratio of a standard interior door - 80-100 cm width by 200 cm height. That is, in the plane of the opening, taking into account the arch, it must be inscribed in “ pure form» a rectangle of this size. Following this rule, you can determine that the width of the opening is:

• 100 cm corresponds to the height of the lower points of the arch about two meters;
• 200 cm - about 180 cm;
• 300 cm - about 160 cm.

It follows from this that if an arch is made where the standard one stood interior door, then the height of the opening will have to be increased.

The easiest way is to arrange an arch in a new place during redevelopment, when interior partitions are reinstalled. And here we must remember the recommended distance from top point arches to the ceiling - usually it is 40-60 cm. Often the height of the ceilings does not allow the arch to be “fitted” in accordance with this rule, and this point is raised a little higher. But even in this case, you should not reduce the clearance to a ceiling level of less than 30 cm.

Once the approximate values ​​for the points of connection with the opening and for the height of the arch have been established, the arch in the opening can be modeled using available means and make sure that it corresponds to the general design.

It is convenient to use a special plastic corner for arches, which will ultimately be used when finishing the opening

One of simple ways modeling is the use of a long strip of flexible material as a pattern, for example, plastic skirting board with hard edges. The plinth is applied with the edges at the lowest points arched opening, bend to the height of the arch, if necessary, change the shape of the arch, adjusting the degree of bending. Mark the points at which the arch meets the opening and place corresponding marks on the plinth.

Plasterboard blanks

For the walls of the arch, you need to cut out two rectangles from plasterboard. The dimensions of the workpiece are the width of the opening and the distance from the junction point of the arch in the opening to the ceiling of the opening itself (or to the ceiling for new partitions).

Then, on one of the blanks, using a plinth, the shape of the arch is modeled. To do this, align one of the marks on the plinth with the corner of the workpiece and bend it until the second mark is aligned in the corner of the workpiece opposite in width. Draw an arc on the workpiece with a pencil and cut out the first wall. And it will serve as a template for cutting out the second wall.

To obtain a sector along the radius, it is better to use an awl, a nail and a pencil tied with thread or rope. The length of the thread from the pencil to the nail will determine the radius of the sector.

L is the width of the opening, H is the height of the arch, R is the radius of the sector, D is the supply of material equal to the thickness of the finishing of the ends of the opening

If you need an ellipse, then on the blank for the arch long side fix two nails, leaving the same distance from both sides by about 10-15 cm. A thread is tied to the nails so that it hangs freely, and when pulled along the edge of the sheet, reaches its edge. The pencil is wound by the thread and the shape of the arch is outlined.

For the vault of the arch, you can use a strip of ceiling plasterboard (it is thinner, only 9.5 mm), but the remainder of a standard sheet is also suitable, since with a small width of the strip it is not difficult to give it the required shape. The size of the blank for the vault is equal in length to the distance between the marks on the plinth, and in width - the thickness of the wall in the opening. The narrow sides of the workpiece are cut at the ends along one side of the corner so that the arch fits more tightly at the ends of the walls of the opening.

Formation of the arch frame

The supporting frame for the walls is usually made of a metal rack profile. Depending on the materials of the partition and its thickness, the width of the profile may vary.

So, if the arch is mounted in an opening where the walls are made of gypsum plasterboard, then they use the same CW rack profiles that are installed in load-bearing structure. In this case, the profiles are secured in the opening with metal screws.

For walls made of bricks, building blocks (gas or foam concrete, gypsum), monolithic concrete The width of the rack profile is selected individually. It is often easier to use a double frame (one for each wall of the arch) from a narrow CW profile with a back of 50 mm than to select a wide profile for a single frame. Dowels are used for fastening to the wall, and a different type of fastener is selected for each material. If the frame is mounted from a narrow profile, the holes for the dowel are drilled at an angle to prevent the edge of the opening from crumbling.

For side racks, the profiles must have a length equal to the distance from the ceiling of the opening to the points of connection with the arch. Since the arch “fits” in the opening to the partition at an angle of less than 90°, the lower corners of the profile are trimmed so that they do not protrude beyond the edge of the walls of the arch.

If the frame is mounted in a gypsum board partition, then you can clearly see how it needs to be secured so that the arch is flush with the wall surface.

For partitions made of other materials, when attaching the frame, you need to step back from the edge of the wall at a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard plus the thickness of the finish (which is at least 1-2 mm per layer of putty for wallpapering or painting).

If the wall has a layer of decorative plaster or is lined wall panels, then the fastening of the frame should go to the main material of the wall so that the walls of the arch are in the same plane with the surface of the partition itself, and not its decorative finish. This rule is followed on each side of the arch.

Arch installation

The walls of the arch are fastened with self-tapping screws with a distance between the fastening points from 15 to 25 cm, but not less three points on each side. The distance from the corner to each extreme fastening point should be within 5-10 cm, and the fastening line should be 15-20 mm from the edge of the arch wall.

If the arch has built-in lighting, then the wires should be laid in advance, leaving leads or loops at least 15 cm long

After both walls are secured, two strips of an arched profile are screwed to them from the inside through drywall to secure the vault. If there is no arched profile, then it is made from a CD profile, symmetrically cutting wedges on the sides at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other.

To bend a strip of workpiece into an arc, it is moistened with a sponge on both sides before installation. Then they roll it on one side with a needle roller (another way is to prick it with an awl over the entire surface by 1/3 of the thickness of the sheet) and wet it again only along the perforated side. Place it on the floor at an angle to it and the wall. When the workpiece begins to bend under its own weight, it is screwed into place to the arched profiles.

Finishing work

The final stage begins when the vault is dry:

• the surface of the drywall is primed;
• seams and joints with the wall are reinforced with serpyanka, and the ribs of the vault are reinforced with plastic perforated corner;
• putty, rubbing the attachment points, seams and joints;
• “bring out” the corners of the ribs;
• dried and polished.

The arch is ready. You can start decorative finishing.

You can make an arch in a doorway in various ways. Each of them is selected based on specific situation. It is necessary to take into account the construction skills possessed House master, and financial opportunities.

It is worth noting that it is possible to qualitatively install an arch in a doorway with your own hands only when all the features of this design are taken into account. The fact is that this finishing option has its pros and cons.

The advantages include the following aspects:

• Visual increase in space. In this case, two factors are combined at once. The first is that an opening without a door unites two rooms, this erases some existing border. The second is based on the shape of the structure.
• An excellent option for zoning. Indeed, an arch can be an excellent solution to the problem of dividing a single area.
• Nice decorative look. This design can decorate any interior. It should be borne in mind that the overall design must be harmoniously thought out.

We must not forget about the existing shortcomings. They consist in the fact that the feature of this product is openness, since there is no door leaf. Therefore, there is a complete lack of sound insulation and the penetration of foreign odors, if we are talking about the border with the kitchen area.

When designing an arch, you should think about the fact that the feeling of security will disappear

Existing options

What is special about installing an arch in a doorway? The point is that there are different kinds of these designs:

1. Ellipse. This configuration is considered to be classic. It is made round. All transitions are very smooth.
2. Round. This option allows you to expand the opening. This method is suitable for cases where zoning is required.
3. Trapezoid. Assumes the absence of rounded areas.

Arch - various types of structures

On a note! You can often hear that an arch and a portal are two different architectural element. In fact, the portal is the most simple solution arched design. It is made in the form of a rectangle, sometimes supplemented with rounded corners.

Features of the construction of arches

You can make an arch in several ways, but you need to take into account the height of the openings.

For low openings

This method of creating an arch involves pre-marking the surface. The marked area is cut out (hollowed).

The general technology is as follows:

• The opening is being dismantled. Deleted old box. Part of the crumbling plaster is removed.
• Height is determined future design. Lines are drawn along two vertical sides. They must be equal and made exactly at the specified height.
• To obtain the radius of the arch, the existing width is measured. This value is divided in half.
• Between vertical posts held horizontal line. It should be located at a level that will correspond to the beginning of the rounding.
  

  On a note! It is important to consider that the distance to the ceiling should not be less than 30 cm.

• The center is marked on the drawn line. The self-tapping screw is screwed in. A cord is attached to the screw, which must be equal to a given radius. A pencil is attached to the end of the rope. This tool marks the bend.
• Trimming is done according to the existing markings. If the wall is strong enough, then chiselling is performed. To make the work easier, pre-drilling is done.

It is necessary to comply with the requirements for the construction of the arch

Thus, the required shape is obtained. Next, you should process it carefully. This is done by grinding. The resulting structure is treated with putty or plaster. They can serve as final finishing material.

For high openings

The door arch can also be made in another way. It consists in the fact that plasterboard and a metal profile are used as the main material. The technology assumes that everything will be done along an existing opening. The following actions are performed:

On a note! The created sheathing should be recessed to the thickness of the gypsum plaster boards used. Minor errors may occur. They can be easily corrected with plaster.

On a note! If you need to install an arch very quickly, the best solution would be to use a ready-made structure. These products are made from various materials and have standard configurations.

After all the procedures it turns out almost finished design. All you need to do is install a fragment of a gypsum plasterboard that will close the open arc-shaped space. The procedure is performed as follows:

1. The bending section is measured.
2. The resulting size is transferred to the drywall.
3. The required fragment is cut out.
4. This part needs to be bent. To do this, it is cut from the wrong side into strips.
5. Carefully place into place and secure.

Finished arch from plasterboard

The completed structure requires additional decorative finishing. It should be noted that drywall makes it quite easy to create an arch with your own hands. If you use wood as a material, you must have sufficient experience to correctly process and install such a product.

GCR boards are used as substitutes fibreboards, plywood.

Plywood is often used to create arched openings instead of drywall.

There are some tips that will help you get a beautiful arched opening:

• The general appearance of the arch should correspond to the interior design.
• To get more original design- it is drawn up with different sides individually.
• Existing communications should be laid in advance.

Summarizing the above, it can be noted that there are various ways to make a door arch. You just need to be patient and adhere to certain rules and recommendations. Then everything will definitely work out.

You have decided to make a European-quality renovation, maximizing the living space, but demolish load-bearing partitions it is forbidden. The installation of arches is one of the solutions to this problem. Using a material such as drywall, you can successfully complete the job yourself in a short time.

Types and features of door arches

Before you start making an arch, you need to choose which configuration best matches the decoration, furniture and purpose of your room.

Arch configurations

There are seven main types of arches, differing in the upper outlines and the shape of the corners of the junction with the side vertical wall:

1. “Classic” - used for high openings in any interior and is an arc with a radius of half the width of the opening.

   Classic arches are most often installed in long corridors or at the entrance to the kitchen

2. “Modern” - used for wide open openings and is characterized by a gentle bend of the arc, while the line of transition to the vertical is sharp and broken.
   

   Arches of the "Modern" type are used in rooms with classic finish, installed after dismantling the window and balcony block or as an entrance to the office

3. “Romance” - the top is horizontal, the corners are rounded, the opening is wide and low.

   Arches of the “Romantic” type are made in wide and low openings

4. “Elliptical” - characterized by a slight gentle bend at the top.

   An elliptical arch unites rooms where there are no height restrictions and looks softer than “Romantic”

5. “Trapezoid” - according to the trapezoidal shape of the corners of the junction of the top and the side slopes.

   The "Trapezoid" configuration fits well with classic finishes

6. “Portal” is an outline in the shape of an elongated rectangle.

   The “Portal” configuration looks like a long rectangle connecting rooms of low height, usually with wooden paneling

7. “Half-arch” - one side is completely vertical, the second is made in the form of a semicircle. Often used by designers in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, art deco.

   The “Half-Arch” configuration is a variant of the classic arch for low rooms

We select a suitable configuration and evaluate it visually by cutting out and securing the paper outline of the arch in the opening. After that, remove it and save it for cutting.

When choosing from a variety of beautiful pictures, try to evaluate whether you can make such an arch yourself and whether your choice matches your available finances.

Preparing to make an arch

Before performing work, it is necessary to select the right materials and tools depending on the size of the opening, the type of wall or partition and its thickness.

Selection of materials

To make an arch you may need:

1. Plasterboard sheathing. Along the mounted frame, the arch is sheathed with 9.5 mm thick plasterboard, which provides strength, the ability to easily bend and cut out the desired shapes. For work, use sheets measuring 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm with the following markings:
   
2. Frame. It is most often made from galvanized ceiling, load-bearing (PN 60x27 mm) and corner (PU 27 mm) profiles with a length of 2400 or 2800 mm. There is a special arched profile that easily accepts any bend. Profiles are used for installation in all walls, excluding wooden or thin partitions, where it is preferable to use wooden bars or strips. For small openings, plywood can be used.

   For the manufacture of the frame, profiles for various purposes are used

3. Fastening elements:
   
4. Materials for preparing for finishing after installing drywall. Reinforcement of joints, which prevents cracking and imparts strength, is carried out with special lining paper, fiberglass mesh or perforated corner. Final finishing, the removal of seams and cracks is done with acrylic or gypsum putty, cleaning is done with fine, medium and coarse sandpaper.
   

   To reinforce corners and large recesses at joints, use fiberglass mesh and perforated corners

Tools required for work

The following tools are prepared according to the work being carried out:

Preparing the opening

We carry out the following preparatory work:

Video: preparing the opening

DIY arch installation

Let's look at the installation technology using an arch as an example. classic type. First, let's cut the drywall:

Using a knife or jigsaw, carefully cut out the front part of the casing along the drawn line. Then we mark it and cut out the second part.

A high-quality and even cut is obtained when using a jigsaw. Other tools can damage the edges. To prevent damage to the edges, before cutting, place wide paper tape on the cutting line.

Installation of a profile frame

The opening most often has a geometric irregular shape. We draw a level line on the walls of the opening, and from it we mark the bottom of the frame elements and the front linings to ensure the alignment of the upper cladding of the arch.

The method of performing work is determined by the prepared profile:

1. We install the ceiling profile, framing the top of the opening on both sides, retreating from the plane of the walls inward by the thickness of the drywall. We measure the length of the side profiles using the cut out front plasterboard lining.

   We mount the profile on the top of the opening

2. According to the length of the arc of the front stitching, we cut off two pieces of the profile corner.
3. We take one of them and use metal scissors to make parallel cuts to the corner of the shelf, 3–5 cm apart.

   We make cuts on one shelf of the corner, which will allow you to easily bend the profile

4. Carefully bending, with the notched side we screw a section of the corner with a pitch of 120 mm with self-tapping screws to the arched edge of the plasterboard front part.

   Carefully bend the profile and screw it to the cut out plasterboard arch

5. We just bend the second piece of the corner along it.
6. We sew on the front part with a screwed corner, fastening it with self-tapping screws to the perimeter frame in increments of 120 mm.

   The front part is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws

7. We cut jumpers from ceiling profile length equal to the thickness of the opening minus 15 millimeters, and install them every 200–250 mm.
8. At the ends of the jumpers, use metal scissors to cut off 20 mm from the rack part of the profile, leaving the lower flat part. We attach the jumpers to the screwed corner, retreating 5 mm from the edge attached to the drywall.

   Jumpers from the profile are prepared for installation by cutting off the side rack part

9. We attach the remaining curved corner to the second end of the jumper with a whole shelf and install the second front lining.

   We mount the jumpers, attach the second corner to them and screw the second front part

Video: flexible profile for gypsum plasterboard

Arched profile frame

According to its characteristics, the arched profile is more plastic and stronger than the corner. It is used for fastening curved elements:

Installation of a frame made of wooden blocks

WITH wooden frame constant changes occur - unlike metal, it reacts to seasonal deformations of the building, changes in humidity and temperature. If you sew drywall onto a wooden frame directly, over time cracks will appear at the joints caused by deformations at the fastening points. To overcome this shortcoming as intermediate material They use plywood, which gives the structure additional rigidity, and plasterboard is already installed on it. The frame is attached directly to the front of the plywood arch. The work is performed in the following order:

1. We calculate the dimensions of the sheathing using the formula 2 thickness of gypsum board + 2 thickness of plywood.
2. We subtract the resulting figure from the thickness of the opening to obtain the width of the frame bar. If it turns out to be more than 120 mm, which corresponds to the average width of the board, we make a frame from a double 40x40 bar with insertion of bosses. To do this, we connect the cut bars with two bosses every 150 mm.
3. Using the cut out front surfaces of plasterboard, we make the same figures from plywood 3–4 mm thick.
4. We screw them with self-tapping screws to the bars - first to those framing the rectangular parts, and then to the stiffening ribs parallel to the sides - vertically, every 120 mm.

   We attach wooden blocks to the front lining of the plywood arch

5. We install plywood lining with a wooden frame at the top of the opening, deeper than the plane of the wall to the thickness of the plasterboard.

   We install a frame with bosses sewn onto plywood into the opening

6. We cover the opposite side with a second plywood sheathing.
7. We check the ratio of the curved sides with a level, a construction square, and trim or clean it with sandpaper.

   We screw the second front plywood lining onto the frame

Laying communications

If the design project involves the installation of lamps, we lay the cable along the mounted structures to the installation location of each light source and secure it so that the end of the cable hangs over the lower plane.

The cable is attached to the structures, the ends extend beyond the plane of the filing

After sewing the stripe and its finishing cut holes with a crown and install lamps.

Holes of the required diameter are cut out in the lower strip of the arch, into which lamps will subsequently be installed.

Drywall installation

We cover the finished frames with plasterboard:

• made from an arched profile - on both sides along the finished frame;
• from wooden blocks - on top of plywood. If there is no cut arc in the prepared rectangles, we do it locally, focusing on the lower edge of the plywood;
• on metal carcass facial coverings are installed during its assembly.

Then we check that the curved cuts correspond to each other with a level or a construction angle, and level them by running a float with attached medium-grain sandpaper several times simultaneously along the bottom of both sides.

After stitching front sides sew drywall onto the bottom of the arc:

1. We make accurate measurements of the length of the curved part of the front surface.
2. We cut out a strip of plasterboard 100 mm longer than the measured distance and a width corresponding to the distance between the front surfaces.
3. We apply marks on the prepared strip at the locations of the jumpers and lamps.
4. We drill holes for the lamps.

We sheathe the arched bottom with this strip, doing the work in one of two ways:

1. “Dry” - we make parallel cuts every 50 mm for half the thickness of the sheet and fasten it to the frame from the center of the arc with self-tapping screws in increments of 100 mm.

   We make cuts on one side of the stitching, bend the strip and secure it

2. "Wet":
   • Using a special roller with needles, we pass the side without markings several times. If there is no roller, randomly use a knife to make shallow cuts 20–30 mm long, every 15 mm, across the entire surface;

     Using a special roller, we apply punctures in the plasterboard strip

   • if possible, we make a U-shaped box from boards according to the size of the opening;
   • moisten the treated side with a sponge and water;

     To obtain an accurate and even bend, the strip must be laid on a pre-assembled box

   • after 40 minutes, screw the finally curved strip from the center of the arc onto self-tapping screws;
   • trim off excess length.

If there is no box, you can lean the strip against the wall with the wet side down, and after starting to bend, re-wet it.

The wet bending method is more difficult, but it gives more flat surface, on which you only need to putty the screws.

Video: methods of bending the bottom strip of sewing

Making vaults by gluing

Work can be performed on a partition of medium thickness:

Pre-finishing

A perforated corner is installed on drywall joints for reinforcement

Mix the putty in small portions - acrylic or gypsum based.

Using a spatula, apply it to the joint between the drywall and the main walls and smooth it, comparing the surfaces. If the unevenness is significant, apply the putty 2-3 times, waiting for the applied layer to dry.

If the unevenness is deep, the putty is applied in several layers.

We putty the screw heads, joints, glued paper, perforated corner.

Having sealed the existing seams, potholes and strengthened the reinforcing materials, we leave the coating to dry.

After drying, carefully clean all irregularities with medium-grain sandpaper, being careful not to damage the reinforcing layer.

We wash the surface with a damp sponge.

We apply thin layer finishing putty, we eliminate irregularities.

After drying, smooth again with medium-grain sandpaper and wipe with a sponge.

After each layer of putty has dried, the surface is sanded with medium-grain sandpaper.

Apply the last, third thin continuous layer, trying not to scratch the surface with a spatula.

Leave to dry for 12 hours.

We polish the surface.

If there is no reinforcing corner and paper, after applying the first layer of putty, unwind a roll of fiberglass mesh of the required width and cut it off desired length, pressing it with a spatula, we fix it on the corner, cut the wrinkles of the mesh on the arched surface and place its ends on top of each other.

Glue the mesh to the corner on a layer of putty

If the bending was done using a dry method, the kinks from the cuts will most likely be slightly visible.. In this case, for leveling, we additionally apply another continuous layer. acrylic putty. After drying, sand and apply finishing putty.

We also independently replaced the door with an arch in our apartment with an old layout. The first difficulty was that the entrance to the hall was double door 1600x3000 mm was located on the corner, close to the front door. A large open doorway into a small room, where people enter in street shoes and clothes, was not suitable. After lengthy debate, we decided that we would make a semi-arch in a semicircle towards entrance doors to build up a blank wall into the corridor. Height - 2500 mm, arch radius - 1500 mm. We sew up the opening above the 2500 mm mark and 1000 mm from the floor on the side of the arc, and in the rest of the space we make stained glass. The old partition was made of double shingled boards and plastered, the opening was only 90mm thick. We framed the entire old opening with a 60x10mm planed batten on all sides, and above 2540 mm we made a frame out of it for the blind lining of the wall. We bought an arched metal profile 3000 mm long. A quarter circle with a radius of 1500 mm was drawn on an old cardboard refrigerator packaging. The profile was bent along it and installed in place, securing it to the upper frame under the wall lining. At a height of 1000 mm from the floor, a side frame was completed from the lath for lining the wall, secured to the profile and lath on the opening. Based on the measurements of the frames and the drawn quarter circle, the upper and lower linings were cut out of plasterboard and secured to the frames with self-tapping screws. We measured the profile that remained uncovered and, using it and the semicircle drawing, we marked and cut out arc linings from plasterboard 60 mm high, aligned with the profile along the bottom of the arc. Pieces 15 mm long were cut from a 60 mm lath and secured to a bent profile at 150 mm intervals. We attached the side plasterboard linings to the profile. Then we bought 6 corners for tiling and 3 plastic panels same beech color. We lined all the openings and the bottom of the arc with panels using tile corners. Before this, we completely puttyed and leveled the plasterboard linings with the wall, covering the joints with fiberglass mesh. To ensure that the putty lays evenly, I advise you to completely prime the drywall with an acrylic compound. Finishing touch- purchase of slats plastic holder beech colors for glass, sticking it on liquid nails and glazing. The only thing I regret is that after the exchange of the apartment it burned down HDD There are no photographs left on the computer of the resulting miracle, which I am proud of.

Finishing

There are many design solutions fine finishing. Take your time to look at them. When making your final choice, have full confidence that you can do the work yourself and master financial questions. After that, feel free to realize your fantasies. You will succeed.

Video: DIY plasterboard arch

Making an arched opening with your own hands is quite possible. It is important to work carefully and know what you want to get as a result.