Installation of cable wiring

Installation of electrical wiring is carried out in two stages.

At the first stage in the workshop they prepare electrical wiring elements, complete anchors, tensile structures and supporting devices.

Measuring the cable required length and “charge” one end of it into the lanyard ring, at the other end they make a loop under the hook or close it on the lanyard if tension couplings are used on both sides. The cables are connected to the end fasteners by installing a loop at the end of the cable. different ways, for example, using the so-called thimble and bolt clamps.

Drawing. Making the end loop of the cable: a – cable termination diagram; b – thimble; c – bolt clamp-clip.

The sequence of operations to complete the loop is as follows.

The cable is looped around the thimble and a clip-clip is attached to the end of the cable (stage 1). The second clamp is attached as close to the thimble as possible (step 2). Install the remaining clamps between the first two (step 3), while tightening the clamp nuts with force, but not tightening them completely. [ Total clamps in the loop is determined by the calculated pulling force of the cable, which in turn depends on the length of the cable wiring span, the mass and number of electrical products attached to the supporting cable.] If a “slack” of the cable has formed between the clips, then it is eliminated by tensioning the end of the cable that goes around the thimble , and then finally tighten the clamp nuts.

Drawing. Bolt clamp K676 for making an end loop support cable

Below are several videos that show the principle of making an end loop on a support cable using various clamps.

Drawing. Making a loop on a support cable using a pressed sleeve

The sequence of operations is as follows. The cable is threaded into the sleeve with a loop so that its end protrudes from the sleeve by 1-2 cm. Next, the sleeve will be crimped using a special tool - a press (manual, electric, hydraulic), having previously selected a matrix for it (the size of the matrix depends on the type of sleeve, used for crimping). Crimping begins from the middle of the sleeve, then crimping is performed from the edges of the sleeve. After crimping is completed, its quality is checked using special templates.

You can make the end loop of the support cable without using special devices(clamps, sleeves, etc.) and tools. In this case, the end of the cable is woven in a special way into the main part of the supporting cable. It should be noted that making a loop using this method requires much more time.

If steel wire or rod rod is used as a cable, loops at the ends are made without the use of clamps, by simply twisting the wire into a spiral at a length of 60-80 mm.

In addition, execute end seal the support cable can also be installed without organizing a loop, using special tips mounted on the cable by crimping. An overview of these mounting products, as well as an example of how to terminate a support cable, is shown in the video below.

After completing the end seal of the supporting cable, branch, connection and input boxes are installed on the cable wiring and secured. Pre-measured wires and cables are attached to the supporting cable; the distance between the points of attachment of the cable to the supporting cable should not exceed 50-60 cm.

At the second stage carry out installation of cable wiring to building structures at the installation site. Lamps are attached to the wiring, as a rule, at the second stage of installation, when the cable wiring is unwound on the floor, temporarily suspended at a height of 1.2-1.6 m for straightening the wires, hanging and connecting the lamps (if they were not mounted on the cable line in workshops). Then the electrical wiring is raised to the designed height.

Install the end fastening structures to building elements buildings and structures.

The most reliable fastenings of anchor structures to building surfaces are fastenings in brick and concrete walls and floors using through bolts and through anchors or fastening anchors using through studs with installation of enlarged square washers on the back side of the fastening. In anchors with such fastenings, the pulling forces correspond to the actual strength of the material from which the anchor is made, depending on the grade of steel and the cross-section of the threaded part of the fastening rods.

Drawing. Execution diagram end fastening using a through anchor bolt

Fastening of anchor structures to walls and ceilings is also carried out using grease-in pins or expansion dowels. Such fastenings are less reliable, since they largely depend on the quality of workmanship and the accuracy of the prepared holes in size and the reliability of embedding anchors in them. Therefore, these methods of fastening anchors are used for less responsible intermediate fastenings load-bearing cables and guy ropes.

Drawing. Scheme for performing end fastening using: a – grease-in pins; b – spacer dowels.

Fastening of anchor structures to metal trusses and building structures is carried out using crimped steel fasteners or similar parts, as well as using bolted connections or welding the anchor along its perimeter using electric welding.

Drawing. Diagram of end fastening to metal elements building structures using: a – crimping steel fasteners; b – welding.

TO wooden bases The tension cable is secured with metal screws and a hook.

In each individual case, the choice of anchor design and method of fastening is made depending on specific local conditions, the material from which the parts of the anchor structures are made, and the compliance of the design with the calculated pull-out force created by the cable wiring.

Drawing. Installation of cable wiring

The suspension of the supporting cable and its tension is carried out as follows. First, the cable is pulled along the length of the wiring and one end is secured to the end anchor structure. Tensioners(turnbuckle, anchor bolts) must first be loosened (so that there would be movement afterward to adjust the degree of tension of the cable). Then the support cable is pre-tensioned. Depending on the length of the span, pre-tensioning is carried out: for small spans - manually, and for large spans - using blocks, pulleys or winches. The cable is tensioned until the calculated sag is obtained, but with a force not exceeding that permissible for a given load-bearing cable. The tension force of the supporting cable is monitored by a dynamometer connected in series with the cable of the pulley or pulley. The final tension and adjustment of the supporting cable is carried out by tightening the previously loosened tensioning devices: turnbuckle (tension coupling), anchor bolts.

The cable sag in spans should be within 1/40-1/60 of the span length. Splicing of cables in the span between the end fastenings is not allowed. To prevent swinging of lighting electrical wiring, guy ropes must be installed on the steel rope.

After tensioning the supporting cable, it is grounded.

There are situations during electrification when it is necessary to supply electricity to a separate room. At the same time, it is not possible to lay the cable in a trench due to the complexity of the terrain or architecture. Therefore, along with such types of external laying as trays, cable ducts, pipes, corrugations, wall mounting, there is such a type of laying as cable wiring. In this article we will look at the technology of installing a cable on a cable with your own hands.

Application area

According to this method, it is applicable for networks up to 1000 volts. Most often, cable wiring is used in places where organizing an overhead line does not make sense, and it is enough to throw a cable attached to the cable, and this will be enough to electrify the facility.

In this way, lighting networks and electrical wiring for sockets in warehouses, power cables in production workshops, and also between two separate buildings are installed.

For home handyman this method wiring has a certain interest. This is because with the help of simple technology it is possible to electrify outbuildings in the country. Thanks to cable wiring, it is possible to conduct light from the house to a bathhouse, garage, shed, gazebo and others spaced some distance apart. personal plot buildings and lighting devices.

Preparatory work

First you need to decide on the wire and its cross-section. We talked about this in the corresponding article. After this, you need to measure the length, taking into account the entire route of wiring from the machine to the distribution panel. When choosing a cable and suspension elements, you need to take into account the weight of the wire in a given area, with a threefold safety margin. Since in difficult weather conditions the load on suspended structure increases, can cause a break and blackout. Mostly galvanized steel cable with a diameter of 4.6 to 6.8 mm is used. In cases where the length of the suspension is short and the weight is such that it can be neglected, instead of cable wiring, string wiring can be used (galvanized steel wire or varnished hot-rolled wire from 5 to 10 mm is pulled).

Installation technology

First you need to secure the anchor and the fastening elements of the cable wiring to the selected area. For the most part, these are steel plates pulled together on both sides of the wall with studs and rings welded to them for hanging the cable. The tension of the fastenings is done to strengthen and avoid their falling out, distributing the weight of the load evenly along the wall, and not at the fastening points.

The height of the suspension should not be lower than 2.75 meters above the pedestrian area, and not less than 6 meters above the vehicle passage. All standards for overhead electrical wiring, including the distance between supports, are indicated in the diagram:

After installing the strings, they begin tying the cable with a bandage. To hang cable wiring on the street, you can use plastic clamps, galvanized iron strips, and galvanized binding wire. The distance between the bandage is 50-80 cm.

When using a binding wire, it is necessary to prevent the core from cutting into the insulation; for this purpose, a gasket is made between the bandage and the wire made of insulating material. The winding area of ​​the bandage should be distributed as much as possible by laying 7-10 turns of the bandage. When using plastic clamps, check their operational data. Otherwise, in frosty winters or very hot summers, you will find scattered clamps.

When laying the cable externally along the cable, it is also necessary to protect the line from the influence of the environment on the insulation, so it is recommended to stretch it in a corrugation, as shown in the photo below. This will then reduce the cost of operation and restoration of cable wiring.

If the span is short or there is no possibility of attaching the cable to the cable at the installation site, it is possible to assemble the suspension on the ground. The already prepared structure can be stretched and attached.

By following our instructions, you can independently conduct electrical wiring to separate buildings in the country. We also recommend watching a useful video that shows how to make a loop on a cable with your own hands:

Preparing the cable

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to install cable wiring with your own hands. As you can see, laying a cable along a cable is quite a labor-intensive task, but it is still within the power of a home handyman!

For various reasons, it is not always possible to conduct underground electrical cable to an object that needs to be supplied with electricity. In such cases, the technology of laying cables or individual wires through the air on a cable is successfully used. In the article we will look at how to install and lay a cable on a cable to a house or garage, and what types of fastening are used.

Scope of technology

Such technologies are used only in electrical networks with a voltage not exceeding 1000 volts, the requirement of the PUE is Chapter 2.1. In most cases, the laying of cables on cables is used from buildings or power lines to individual structures over short distances. Where installation of power line supports or digging trenches for cables is impossible according to technical specifications production during the operation of facilities, or unreasonably in terms of the volume of work performed, is expensive from a financial point of view.

In production workshops, warehouses, buildings with large areas, high ceilings, for lighting the best option is the use of these technologies. Cable ropes are used for electrical networks street lighting separate territories.

For private home owners, this wiring method eliminates the time-consuming work of digging a trench. Easier from switchboard in the house, stretch the cable over the air to outbuildings:

• workshop;
• summer kitchen;
• gazebo with barbecue;
• chicken coop;
• bathhouse and other possible structures in the courtyard of a private household.

Cable wiring allows you to conduct light three-wire wires for electrical consumers of low power and cables with large cross-section wires for power supply of powerful household appliances. Before proceeding with the installation of cable wiring, preliminary calculations are required.

Preliminary measures before installation

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine how much power will be consumed by electrical appliances in the structures that are planned to be provided with electricity. Based on the power consumption, the cross-section of the cable wires is calculated, its length and weight are taken into account. These parameters determine which fasteners to use, the diameter and material of the cable. To calculate power consumption and cable cross-section, a more detailed study of a separate topic is required. In simplified form it looks like this:

• The power of all electrical appliances is summed up, which are supposed to be used in the calculated network. The power of each device is indicated in product passports or nameplates on the housing. The simplest example of a lighting lamp is always written 40 on them; 60; 75 or 100 or more watts.

∑Р = P1 + P2 +…Pn = 3.7 kW. (3700 W) – Total power.

• Determine the maximum possible current in the circuit

I = ∑Р/ U=3700 W/220 V = 16.8 A. – Maximum current.

U – network voltage.

• To determine the cross-section of wires in a cable, use the table

In our case, we choose a maximum current value slightly greater than 19A, taking into account that additional household appliances may be used in the future. According to the table, we obtain a power of 4.1 kW, which corresponds to a copper wire cross-section of 1.5 mm. You need to understand that the cross section is not the diameter, it is calculated using the formula:

Experienced electricians are well aware of the standards of cables and wires and determine the cross-section by eye. For ordinary consumers, there are tables for determining the cross-section by diameter, it is enough to measure the diameter of the wire with a micrometer or caliper and determine its cross-section using the table.

• Next stage preliminary work, cable length measurement from the distribution board in the house to the switchgear ( switchgear) on the building to which the cable structure is stretched. This can be done with a regular tape measure,

Tip #1. Be sure to take into account the cable reserve for cutting and connecting to the control panel; add approximately 30 cm at both ends.

Selecting the diameter and material of the cable

Determine the weight of the cable and other elements that will be attached to it. If the distance between support fastenings 5-6 m and the weight of the wire is not significant, you can stretch galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. When the distance is more than 10 m, the cable is heavy, especially if the cable structure is used with lighting elements, galvanized cable is used steel rope with Ø 4-6.5 mm. Such a cable will withstand any cable with a wire cross-section of up to 10 mm/sq.m; larger cables are not used in private households due to limited power consumption. You can also hang up to 5 pieces on such a cable. lighting lanterns in a lightweight housing.

The cable can be wound and weighed on ordinary scales, or calculated by knowing its brand according to the characteristics table, which is included with the sale. The weight of the cable per 1 m is indicated, you need to multiply the specified weight by the number of meters you get total weight piece, which is used for fastening to a steel cable.

For domestic conditions, in order not to waste money, you can hang the cable that was used for hidden wiring. To make the insulation last longer, lay it in corrugated pipe, its weight is not significant. There are reference tables indicating the brand and weight of the cable. You can look it up on the Internet; some sites have calculators for calculating the length and weight of wires and cables.

Tip No. 2 Use the calculator on this site http://kabelves.ru/

Table indicating the cable brand and weight in kg. by 1 meter

For high current loads, it is better to use special cables for overhead cable structures:

• AVT, AVTS, APT already have a built-in supporting steel cable;
• AVRG, ANRG, APVG, AVVG are suspended from a supporting steel cable.

Supporting and tensioning elements of cable wiring

These products are installed on the walls of buildings, structures between which tension is stretched. Depending on the material and diameter of the cable, the fastening design is selected:

• Tension bolt, hook and tension anchor are used for flexible stranded cables industrial production bearing heavy loads, rolled wire with a diameter of up to 6 mm can be used.
• Anchors for tensioning strings with a small diameter are designed for light wires with a cross-section of up to 6 mm at a distance of up to 10 meters, without elements lighting fixtures.
• Anchors for industrial cables and wire rods are capable of supporting heavy cables and lighting elements at a distance of up to 12 m without additional supports.
• Fasteners for stringing parallel lines are often used for dual purposes, for power supply to structures and placement of lighting lanterns. A power cable with a wire cross-section of 10 -35 mm/sq. is laid along one cable, lighting partitions are installed on the second, distribution boxes With copper wire 2.5 – 4 mm.

All these designs have individual characteristics when installed on the walls of buildings.

Requirements for installation of end fastenings and installation features

Never attach end pieces to decorative building siding or roofing components. Devices designed for heavy loads are fixed on both sides load-bearing wall steel plates fastened with through bolts. As shown in the picture for the tension bolt with hook. They must be located above pedestrian passages at a height of at least 2.7 m, and above vehicle passages at least 6 m. Anchors for strings with lighter loads can be secured with simple anchor screws for concrete.

Ideally, tension anchor devices are installed in the wall during the construction of buildings according to the project. In practice, this is not always provided for; then you have to drill into the walls with a hammer drill. Under the end fastening, a metal plate with a bolted contact is attached at 20-30 cm for grounding the cable. It is connected by a welding joint with rolled wire with a cross-section of at least 16 sq/mm, which goes to general outline grounding. In some cases, grounding is performed with a separate copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 sq/mm bolted connections.

Laying the cable on a cable when connecting to a wall

Installation and tension of the cable

After installing the terminal fastenings, the cable is attached to the guy wire on the ground, lighting fixtures with junction boxes are fixed and connected. The assembled structure is delivered to the installation site and unwound along its entire length from one mounting anchor to another.

The length of the cable must be at least 2 m greater than the distance between the end anchors. The reserve will be needed to seal the fastening on terminal devices and bringing the ends to the grounding terminals, which are located below the anchors. The end loops of the cable are attached to the tension anchors, after which they regulate the tension. The tensile force should be up to 100 kg/cm for light structures with cables with a cross-section of 4-10 sq./mm. For heavy cables with a cross-section of 16 – 25 sq./mm – up to 500 kg./cm. This parameter is measured by a dynamometer, which is installed between the anchor and the tension loop.

After tensioning the cable, the ends of the cable are grounded, the cable is inserted into distribution devices and connected to protective circuit breakers.

Elements for fastening the cable to the cable

To securely fix the cable with the cable, there are several devices:

The simplest method cable twisting with stretching using ordinary aluminum wireØ 2.5 – 5 mm with insulation. At connections every 50 -80 cm, 7-8 turns of wire are made, tightly turn to turn. To prevent the cable insulation from being pressed through by the fastening wires, the fastening point is wrapped with a rubber plate, and the wire is wound on top. It is recommended to use rubber for gaskets from old car inner tubes;

The device is attached to a guy wire, the cable is laid in a groove, covered with a strap, which is threaded into the lock, tightened and securely fixed. The castle is designed in such a way that reverse side The strap cannot be pulled out; to remove it you can only cut it.

Plates with are produced with loops different sizes. One plate is put on the cable and the other on the cable. In the center of the plates there is a hole with a thread for a bolt; they are aligned and tightened with a bolt.

All connections, regardless of the design, are installed after 50 - 80 cm.

Distribution boxes and lighting devices for cable mounting

To fasten distribution boxes, special galvanized iron plates with cut-out shapes are used. A part of the plate is bent from the cut-out shape, a cable and a box are inserted, after which everything is fixed with bent elements.

To fasten lighting fixtures, galvanized plates of a special shape are used, but the principle of fastening remains the same, shown in the figure.

• Cable;
• Plate;
• Cable;
• Junction box;
• Lampshade with lamp socket.

Frequently asked questions for electricians

Question No. 1. You can tighten the cable, then attach the cable and other elements?

It is possible if the installation conditions on site allow this to be done without compromising safety when working at height. But after this you will definitely have to increase the tension, since the load on it will increase.

Question No. 2. What wire should be used to connect the fasteners under the anchor to the ground loop?

Depending on your capabilities, rolled wire with a welded connection or copper, preferably with yellow-green insulation, as determined by the PUE. The cross-section of the wires must be at least 2.5 sq/mm.

Question No. 3. Can I use a cable as a neutral wire?

Yes, provided that it is properly grounded.

Question No. 4. Which circuit breaker install for a cable routed along a cable?

The design of the cable outlet in this case does not matter; the circuit breaker is installed based on the maximum load current in this circuit.

Question No. 5. Can distribution boxes be hung for outdoor wiring?

The cable thimble is currently an integral and indispensable part of most lifting, tensioning, holding, towing, fastening and many other similar machines, mechanisms and structures used in the most various fields production and human activity. It is quite reasonably believed that thimbles (kous) were first used to equip ship cables and ropes with them, and by Dutch sailors, which is confirmed by the translation of this word from the native language of Holland - “stocking”.

1

A thimble is a special mandrel for a loop (fire) of a cable (steel or made of soft materials), protecting it from damage, breakage and rapid wear (abrasion). What does it consist of and how is it actually carried out? protective function this product? The outer side of the thimble is made in the form of a groove (has a groove), into which the cable, that is, its loop, is placed, quite tightly. And this mandrel itself has a shape as close as possible to the contour of the fire.

Thanks to this design of the thimble, the cable, being in its groove, does not come into direct contact with the part (element) to which it is attached with its loop. The shape and dimensions of the mandrel ensure that the rope fits evenly and without kinks. The sides of the thimble groove do not allow the loop to come off, and also protect the cable from damage from the side, although there it is least susceptible to wear and other mechanical stress.

Since thimbles are used in so many areas of production and human activity, several types are produced, which are listed and briefly described in the corresponding publication on the site. This is an article. Within the framework of this publication, we only note that in form ( appearance) this mandrel can be round, triangular or teardrop-shaped. Thimbles in the latter version are the most common and are used in almost all cases where such cable protection is necessary.

Thimbles are made mainly from carbon steel, but there are also plastic ones. Steel ones are made by casting, stamping or forging, followed by galvanizing or painting to ensure their protection against corrosion. Structurally, the thimble can be made one-piece or composite, consisting of several parts. One of the types of such mandrels is shown in the photographs below. Moreover, this is a teardrop-shaped thimble.

Of course, each rope (a certain range of diameters) has its own thimble, that is, with the corresponding external, internal and groove dimensions.

Moreover, for the same cable, the dimensions, dimensions and weight of thimbles produced in accordance with different GOSTs differ. As an example, we can compare the two most common and most popular types of mandrels. These are of the same shape, but produced in accordance with GOST 19030-73. The drawings according to which they are made are presented respectively in Fig. 1 and 2. Taken from these GOSTs.

Rice. 1. Throngs standard 2224

Rice. 2. Throngs standard 19030

Let's compare the characteristics of these two products, designed for a cable with a diameter of 3 mm. Both standards produce thimbles used to protect the fire of ropes with diameters in the range of over 2.5 and up to 3.5 mm inclusive. But the characteristics of these mandrels differ, as can be seen from the table presented.

Table 1. Dimensions and weight of thimbles for cables with a diameter over 2.5 and inclusive up to 3.5 mm (including 3 mm) standards 2224 and 19030

GOST products	Size designation on the corresponding drawing and its value, mm

The weight of thimbles of these standards for a rope with a diameter of 3 millimeters, as can be seen from the table, is only 8 and 1.1 grams. But the weight of mandrels for powerful cables is already measured in kilograms and even tens of kilograms.

2

Of course, you first need to choose a suitable cable. In this case, first of all, one should be guided by the value of the maximum breaking force of the rope. That is, such a tensile force that cannot be exceeded, and it is able to withstand it without any damage. No less important are the conditions, method and purpose (for what work it is intended) of using the cable. Only by taking into account all these parameters will it be possible to choose the right ones, either soft ones from natural or synthetic materials.

Selection of the necessary ropes for the thimble

Only after choosing the type of cable, and then its diameter, can you begin to select a suitable thimble. First his appearance. In this case, first of all, one should proceed from what type of rope is used (steel or soft) and, again, be guided by the conditions, method and purpose of its use. The thimble standards reflect this information, including restrictions on use. And only after deciding on the type of mandrel, you can begin to select a specific product, that is, to match the diameter of the existing cable. The standards for thimbles contain tables of their standard sizes, which indicate what dimensions the mandrel should be taken for each rope thickness. So, when using GOSTs or reference books, the process of choosing a thimble at all stages (from selection by type to mandrel dimensions) will not cause any difficulties.

If the search for the desired thimble is carried out without using regulatory documentation on it and only in size, then you should be guided by the following standardized requirements, which will ensure maximum service life of the rope and safety of work:

1. The inner diameter of the mandrel (in the above figures and tables these are D and d) should be approximately 4 times greater than the thickness of the cable. For a rope with a thickness of 3 millimeters indicated as an example, the thimble has D = 12 and d = 10 mm (according to GOST 2224 and 19030, respectively).
2. Groove dimensions per outside The thimble should be such that the rope fits into it ("sank" in it) from 2/3 of its diameter to a position almost flush with the edges.

Compliance with the last requirement can be determined by applying the cable to the mandrel, or by calculation - by measuring the thickness of the cable, the diameter of the groove and its depth. For the 3 mm thick rope indicated as an example, the thimble of standards 2224 and 19030 have a groove diameter of 4 and 3.4 mm, respectively. Divide by 2 to find the radius. We get 2 and 1.7 mm, respectively. Or we measure the depth of the groove: 2.5 and 1.7 mm, respectively. Judging by the diameter of the cable (3 mm), it will not fit completely into the gutter, and 2/3 of its thickness is 2 mm. That is, these thimbles are suitable for rope with this thickness.

3

There are many ways to attach cables and ropes to thimbles. Below in Fig. 3 presents almost all of them, at least the most frequently used ones.

Brief description of the options presented:

• a – the end of the cable that goes around the mandrel is braided onto it;
• b – the end of the rope is attached to it with special clamps, the number and location of which depends on its diameter;
• c – sealing into a thimble, the body of which consists of 2 halves, using its wedge and clamp;
• d – filling the unbraided end of the rope in the thimble body with a low-melting alloy;
• d – crimping with an oval steel or aluminum bushing (seal) on a special press.

The main and most common methods are options A and D. However, for high-quality crimping you need special equipment. But you can do the braiding yourself. How to do this correctly is discussed in the following chapters. The tools required for this are shown in Fig. 4.

Fig 4. Tools required for raking work

Moreover, this set is used both for working with steel rope, and soft: 1 – pile; 2 – a bit like a pile driver, but this tool is called a wiring tool; 3 is a tamper; 4 – this is an awl, maybe different, but always quite powerful and sharp; 5 – wire cutters; 6 – steel rod or wooden stick; 7 – thin hemp rope; 8 – front sight (for shipbuilders) or simply wooden hammer; 9 – not necessarily this, but a sharp knife; 10 – any mechanic’s hammer. In addition, you may also need a bench vise and soft wire.

4

At a certain length from the end of the rope, we temporarily tie it with wire or a thin vegetable cable (rope). Then we unravel the rope into strands, which we also tie, but at the very ends. After this, as shown in Fig. 5, put the cable into the groove of the thimble and then fix it on it with wire or rope.

Then each of the loose strands must be passed (punched) under the corresponding strands of the descent (unraveled part) of the cable. Before doing this, it is recommended to rub the strands with wax.

Punching is carried out according to the rule “through one strand under one” and in the direction from the thimble, that is, in the opposite direction to the descent of the cable. In addition, punching should be done like this: we place each free strand over the nearest strand of the unraveled part of the rope and pull it under the next one using a pile. This is how all punches are performed. In total, you need to make 3-4 of them with each free strand. During the work process, after each punching, the strands must be tightened (tensioned) and beaten with a hammer or other wooden hammer.

The last punching should be carried out in strands, from which we first cut out half of the fibers (threads). Then we remove the temporary markers - the straps around the thimble and the unraveling end of the rope. We also carefully cut off the loose strands near the cable itself. The result should be what is shown in Fig. 6.

Sometimes, for greater strength, another punch is made, but in this case, half of the remaining fibers should be additionally cut out from each free strand. And to increase the strength and service life of such a thimble seal, half of the interweaving of strands is tied - tightly wound over the top and a cable of smaller diameter is tied. Shown in the far right image Fig. 7 for simple fires without thimble.

The piercing is carried out in the direction from the end of the punch to its middle. But after the middle, the cage is not applied to prevent the rope from becoming damp.

5

We measure approximately 500–700 mm from the end of the rope and apply a temporary but durable bandage in this place using soft wire. Then we bend the cable around the thimble. In this case, the dressing site must be set in the same way as shown in Fig. 5 for soft rope. Then we fix the cable to the thimble in several places, tying them tightly with wire. After this, we unravel the free end of the rope (with a dressing) into strands, which are then slightly separated into different sides in the form of a spider.

The ends of the strands, if they consist of several strands, are tied with wire. If there is a soft core (organic or synthetic), then we cut it out along the entire length of the unbraided end of the cable.

Then we clamp the rope in a vice with the thimble towards us and so that the running (loose) strands are on the right. Select the first strand for punching (No. 1). This must be done so that upon completion of the work and removal of the dressing, the cable does not unwind or twist. Then, using an awl, prying up the strands of the unbraided (root) part of the rope, we punch it with running (unbraided) strands. There are several ways to do this, but the most common is shown in Fig. 9.

We carry out the first punching (middle diagram of the upper half of Fig. 9). In the first punch we pass running strand No. 1 through the cable from right to left and in the direction from the thimble, that is, in the opposite direction to the descent of the rope. In this case, strand No. 1 needs to be threaded under 1 molar. Then we break through the strands in the same direction: No. 2 - under 2 molars, No. 3 - under 3. All 3 strands, as seen in Fig. 9 must be punched in one place. We start running wires No. 4 and No. 5 in the same place as the first 3, but in the opposite direction, punching them under two and one root strands, respectively. Running wire No. 6 is threaded as shown in Fig. 9, covering with it strand No. 1 and the one that it broke through.

All subsequent punches are made from right to left and according to the third (right) diagram of the upper half of Fig. 9. That is, the running strands are threaded through one adjacent one under the next two root veins. The last punching must be done with only half of the total number of strands (for example, No. 1, No. 3 and No. 6).

The total number of punches depends on the rope diameter:

Upon completion of each punching, the running strands must be tightened. Depending on the thickness of the cable, this is done manually with pliers or using a bench vice or manual and electric hoists. And after the final punching and wrapping, the ends of the running wires must be cut off at the cable itself. Then, for greater strength and durability of the rope, the entire punched area is tightly wrapped (wrapped) with soft, preferably tinned wire. Finally, remove all the straps.

It is best to seal the rope directly onto the thimble, as suggested above, when it is thin or of small diameter. With powerful cables they do things differently. First, they make a fire (loop), in exactly the same way as suggested above, and only then they insert a thimble of suitable size into it.