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Proper sharpening of a tool reduces its consumption and accordingly increases its service life. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the cutting edges and sharpen the tool in a timely manner, avoiding excessive wear and especially breakage.

Sharpening and manufacturing of hobs

The production complex of the Spetsstanmash plant offers a full range of services for the manufacture and repair of metal parts and structures, including: production and sharpening of cutters for metal, wood, cast iron, aluminum, graphite or plastic.

The cutter is important tool in industry and workshops. It is a part of different shapes, with distinctive feature sharp teeth. Its main function is mechanical restoration prepared material.

The operating principle of milling is the translational rotational movement of the cutter teeth.

Depending on the type of tool used, the result is:

• small grooves or grooves when using end mills;
• milling large surfaces;
• milling baguettes, window frames, gears, etc. using spiral cutters,
• cutting using a disc cutter (plinth, paneling, lining, wall beams, etc.).

An important characteristic of a cutter is the material it is made of, in particular the cutting part. These can be teeth made of high-speed steel, mineral-ceramic, metal-ceramic or diamond.

Diamond cutters are considered the most durable due to their natural physical characteristics. But, they are the most expensive. All other materials become dull after some time during use, especially if used incorrectly. Purchasing new tools is expensive, but our skilled craftsmen and high-precision modern equipment allow quality to perform this type of repair, such as sharpening knives for cutters of any geometry:

• sharpening hob cutters
• sharpening of disc cutters
• core cutters and other types.

Professional work on sharpening cutters increases the durability of the part and significantly reduces the consumption of cutting teeth.

Sharpening hob cutters: from 600 rub. / PC. (depending on wear)
Minimum sharpening time: from 10 working days
Minimum order amount: 3500 rub.
* The exact cost can be found using the form or by phone

In the modern variety of services presented on the market building materials, it’s easy to find help in sharpening cutters.

But don't rush this work you can do it yourself. This is typical not only for work on sharpening cutters, but also for other types of work.

The standard cutter sharpening machine has two chucks of different configurations. One of them is for three feather cutters, and the second is for two and four feather cutters. It is difficult to make a mistake in this case, since if the number of cutter feathers is incorrectly set, it will not be possible to insert the cutter into the chuck.

Having decided on the choice of chuck, you can proceed to the immediate stages of sharpening the cutters:

• sharpening on a ribbon;
• end sharpening.

Sharpening on a ribbon

You must use one of the corresponding cup sockets. From the standard set of collets, select a collet of the appropriate size (8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm).

We insert the collet into the chuck and secure it with a clamping nut. This procedure is done without any effort; the clamping nut rotates freely and does not need to be tightened.

1. In the socket of the glass we set the length of the ribbon to be sharpened. As a rule, this distance is adjusted by unscrewing the screws located in the cup socket. By moving the bottom of the socket up or down, we select the length, and then fix the screws back.
2. We install the cutter into the chuck through the upper hole, while pre-setting the diameter of the cutter and the sharpening angle on the adjusting screw. We fix the prepared chuck in the glass, while correctly setting the lines of the cutter in relation to the element being sharpened. That is, the cutter should cling to the pin with its grooves.
3. Then we turn on the machine and, using the feed regulator, bring the cutter to the grinding wheel until the sound of contact begins and sharpen the cutter strip on all sides. The metal removal from the cutter being sharpened can be reduced or increased using the regulators installed on the machine. This adjustment necessary when changing the diameter of the cutter and correcting existing irregularities in the cutter being processed.

Sharpening the end cutter

To sharpen the cutter along the end, you must use the second chuck socket located on the machine.

In this case, you need to perform the previously described steps to set the diameter and length.

1. Depending on the hardness of the metal being processed, the settings on the socket are set. The harder the metal, the more the socket ring rotates towards the “+” sign.
2. Next, turn on the machine, insert the prepared chuck with the cutter into the socket and process the part until the characteristic noise stops. Each groove of the cutter is machined.
3. In the additional slot of the machine, the cutter is sharpened from the end, for which the above steps are performed.
4. Last operation - processing back wall cutter, which is produced by inserting a chuck with a cutter into the corresponding slot of the machine.
5. Thus, the cutter was sharpened in compliance with all the required geometric features separately and in relation to each other. The sharpening is uniform on all sides.

Do-it-yourself sharpening of cutters

You can perform this procedure yourself and use available tools.

This feature will save money and, if used repeatedly, save valuable time.

1. First, we clean the cutter from carbon deposits, for which we use a special liquid, similar to those used to clean car engines. You need to fill the cutter and wait about three minutes, then clean the cutter on all sides with a brush.
2. Next, we take a diamond stone and begin to sharpen the cutter along the leading edge (movement of the cutter channel along the diamond stone).
3. The block is moistened with ordinary water. After sharpening, you need to wipe the cutter with a cloth.

The quality of manual sharpening differs significantly from sharpening using a special machine, but in manual version time is saved.

Today there is enough production a large number of cutters of various sizes. They can be classified according to functional and design qualities.

Sharpening of end mills is carried out using special devices for such tools. In some cases, sharpening can be done manually.

The cutters have a relatively large length and uneven teeth for cutting. During the sharpening process, you will need to take care of the movement of the base of the wheel along the edge. In this case, you will need to sharpen shaped cutters that have a backed corner. You should know that sharpening is quite difficult. To preserve the profile of the structure and facilitate the sharpening process, the backed teeth will need to be sharpened exclusively along the front base. Sharp teeth, which have a straight or curved shape, must be sharpened exclusively along the rear base. Slotting and parting cutters can be sharpened along the front and back bases of the teeth.

Geometry of cutter teeth

Geometry of the cutter teeth: a - sharpened tooth, b - backed tooth.

To sharpen correctly, you will need to know the geometry of the cutter teeth. The design of the teeth distinguishes between cutters with backed and sharp teeth. In the latter, the part of the rear base, which is adjacent to the cutting edge, is a plane. Teeth with sharp ends are in most cases sharpened along the back base, but they can also be sharpened along the front base of the tooth.

The backed teeth that come with the end mills have a back base that follows an Archimedes spiral. It is quite difficult to process a shaped base technologically, so you can sharpen cutters with backed teeth exclusively on the front base.

Regardless of the number of teeth in the cutter, each of them can be considered as a separate tooth, which is characterized by typical parameters for the tooth - the angles of the front and back, the size of the sharpening area, and the angle of inclination of the teeth.

The sharpening platform is an element of the rear base of the tooth, which is subjected to grinding during the sharpening process along the rear base. The maximum wear of the teeth will occur along this base. Its size affects the magnitude of the friction force between the tool and the workpiece, so the base must be maintained in a specific range.

Scheme for sharpening prefabricated cutters on a universal sharpening machine.

The main rake angle is the angle between the tangent to the front base and the base of the axis. It can be measured in a plane that will pass through a given point perpendicular to the main cutting edge.

The main relief angle is the angle between the tangent to the rear base at a given point of the main cutting edge and the tangent to the plane of rotation of this point. This angle helps reduce friction between the tool and the workpiece.

Using the auxiliary relief angle, you can characterize the large gap between the milled base and the body of the tooth. It is necessary to sharpen a tool at an additional angle when there is a specific amount of damage to the tool and an increase in the sharpening area. The purpose of this action is to reduce friction between the tooth and the workpiece being milled. You should be aware that not all tools of this type have this angle.

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How to sharpen end mills for woodworking?

The shape of the teeth can be straight or helical. The inclination of the tool teeth can be characterized as the angle between the developed edge of the screw type and the axial part of the tool.

The values ​​of the tooth angles will depend on the type of tool, the grade of alloy and steel from which it is made, as well as the type of material for which the tool is intended for milling.

When milling viscous materials, the main rake angle should be selected in the range of 15-20° or more. Carbide tools for milling steel will have an angle of 0° or -5°. The clearance angle varies over a wide range.

Items you will need:

1. Diamond beam.
2. Table.
3. Water or soap and water.
4. Solvent.
5. Abrasive paper.
6. Hardwood plank or steel strip.
7. Abrasive wheel.

Sharpen shaped end mills possible without special devices for sharpening, along the front base, with a diamond bar of small thickness. The beam must be installed on the extreme part of the table. If the tool has a large recess, then the tool must be secured along the table.

Heat resistance table various materials, °C.

When sharpening, the beam will need to be wetted clean water or a solution with soap. After sharpening, the tool will need to be washed and dried.

As the front base is sharpened, the edge will become sharper, but the diameter of the tool will not decrease much.

If a bearing is installed on the tool, then the first step is to dismantle it and then sharpen it. An attempt to save time in this case may result in a damaged bearing and a non-functioning cutter.

It is imperative to clean the cutter from excess resin from the trees. It is best to use a solvent for this.

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In the process of sharpening tools, you will need to use bars of different grain sizes. The grain size will depend on the thickness of the layer of material being removed and the required cleanliness of the base. Before sharpening, you will need to make sure that the beam has the appropriate shape.

Figure 1. Shapes of grinding wheels.

If the cutter teeth are made of relatively soft material, instead of timber, you can use abrasive paper, which is glued to a flat base. As a base, you can use a hardwood plank or a steel strip.

End mills for milling wood are sharpened to special device With low speed rotation of the circle. In this case, you will need to use a suitable abrasive wheel.

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Sharpening wheels

Sharpening of modular cutters can be done with wheels made of white or ordinary electrocorundum, diamond and others. For example, by using electrocorundum wheels, you can perform high-quality sharpening of cutters for working with metal and wood, which are made from tool steel or other steel of standard performance. CBN wheels make it possible to sharpen high-performance steel structures. Silicon carbide and diamond wheels are used for sharpening cutters made of hard metals.

By increasing the temperature, the hardness of such a device decreases. A temperature of 1000°C can reduce the hardness by almost 2 times. At a temperature of 1300°C, this indicator will decrease by about 6 times.

Figure 2. Sharpening the end mill: a - main cutting edge, b - auxiliary cutting edge, c - installation diagram of the cutter for sharpening the teeth of the auxiliary cutting edge.

Using water to reduce the temperature in most cases leads to rust on the workpieces and corners of the machine. To eliminate corrosion, you need to add soap and some electrolytes to the water, which can form films for protection. When sanding, a solution with soap or soda is almost always used. If fine grinding is performed, a low-concentration emulsion should be used.

To increase the quality of grinding with an abrasive wheel and reduce significant damage, it is recommended to select the maximum grain size that can provide the required cleanliness class for the base of the cutter used.

The peripheral speed of the wheel when sharpening hard metal teeth should be approximately 15-18 m/s. For example, when using a wheel with a diameter of 12.5 cm, the engine rotation speed should be approximately 1600-2700 rpm. If you need to sharpen more brittle materials, the actions need to be performed at a lower speed. In the process of using tools made of hard metals, the use of a harsh mode leads to the appearance of high voltage and cracks, and in some cases, damage to the cutting edges. In this case, wheel wear will increase.

Circle shape for sharpening the back angle of the teeth on the base cylindrical should be cup or plate-shaped. To sharpen the front corner, you need to use a disc-shaped or flat-shaped wheel.

Existing forms of grinding wheels can be seen in (Fig. 1).