Today, dachas have a centralized water supply, however, for many people there is still a well - current problem. In holiday villages, water may not be supplied in winter; For watering the garden, it is always advisable to have an additional source so as not to overpay and not be too dependent on its supply (switching off).

Well construction and types

The well is vertical system With reinforced surface and design for supplying water from underground sources (wells or groundwater). According to the lifting mechanism inland waters it could be:

• a Russian well, water is obtained from it thanks to a rope wound around a special drum, at the end of which a bucket is tied;
• a shaduf well, in which a crane-type lever is used to lift water from the shaft;
• an Archimedes screw in which water rises in large portions.

In drinking wells only:

• groundwater of spring origin;
• artesian waters that come out from the depths due to the force of natural pressure.

Based on the material used to strengthen the internal walls, wells can be:

• wooden;
• brick;
• concrete;
• stone.

The structure of a wooden Russian well is a shaft, no more than 20 m deep and consists of lifting mechanism- a gate, a clay castle, on top of which crushed stone is poured and a blind area is laid. The well is dug until the groundwater flows, under which lay the filter from gravel and sand.

The part that is above the surface of the earth is called the head, its cover with a lid protecting from debris and winter icing. The part located underground is called the trunk, it is dug deep into the mine, the walls of which are reinforced. The shape of the shaft is most often round (the most convenient), square (the simplest) and any other (rectangular, hexagonal, etc.).

Concrete, brick and stone wells are dug with a round shaft.

How and when to dig

1. Digging in the spring is not recommended due to the high probability of choosing the wrong depth.
2. The best time to dig a well is the end of February or August. In February it is not easy to dig, but at other times you may not dig a well at all.
3. If you start digging, you cannot interrupt it to prevent the column from sticking.
4. The use of a winch or crane to remove the rings is mandatory.
5. A team of three people must dig a well, taking turns replacing each other.

Country well made of logs

A well is dug if groundwater lies at a depth of up to 15 m, otherwise lifting the soil upward will be difficult. Shaft depth less than 5 m is also unacceptable, due to the likelihood of surface water entering, leading to pollution and the impossibility of using it for drinking, and there is not much water there.

The location for the well must be chosen at least 5 m from the buildings on the foundation, preferably at least 20 m away. Determine water occurrence traditional methods it is possible, but it is better if you contact a special hydrological organization. However, if you see that your neighbors have wells and water in them, you can safely dig on your site, you will definitely have it too.

It is better to dig a well at a time when surface layers of water are depleted, and you will probably reach groundwater without accidentally mistaking perched water for it.

The material for the log house should be durable rocks oak type trees. To prevent the water from taking on a brown tint and giving it a bitter taste, it is subjected to a staining process. You can use other tree species, for example: elm, larch, alder, aspen, pine. Can be used in the above-water and underwater parts of the well different types trees.

Before starting to dig a mine, select fastening method logs between each other (as a rule, “in a paw” in “half a tree”, etc.) so that there are no obstacles to inserting the log into the finished shaft.

Having made markings and pulled out a recess for clay castle, start digging the well shaft to a maximum depth of about 20 m.

1. Separately, a frame is assembled corresponding to the depth of the dug shaft.
2. The finished log house is brought into the shaft, trying to prevent damage to the walls.
3. The lower crown is neat sit on supports, made from leftover logs. For a hard landing, they hit the top rim of the frame with a heavy sledgehammer.
4. The soil is sampled for further advancement of the log house.
5. Delete wooden supports and the frame must lower, otherwise help with a sledgehammer.
6. They repeat the actions (put up supports, dig a hole, etc.).
7. If a lot of water accumulates in the pit, use a pump to pump it out.
8. After installation wooden structure, pump out water from the bottom, level it and pour filter layers- sand, then gravel.
9. A meter-long pit is dug around the well to make clay castle, preventing the ingress of top water.
10. To prevent rainwater from leaking make a blind area with a slight slope from the well.
11. The rest of the work is being carried out on landscaping appearance well.

Concrete wells

Wells made of concrete more hygienic and durable compared to wooden counterparts. Concrete wells can be dug in two ways:

1. Formwork method.
2. Using concrete rings.

Formwork method. This is done simply: formwork is placed along the walls dug to a certain depth of the shaft, and it is poured cement composition, sand and crushed stone (in a proportion of ½/3), water is added at an average rate of 0.6 per unit of proportion. After curing after 12 days remove the formwork, They dig a hole under a concrete wall and lower the ring. This process is repeated until the well is completely dug to the desired depth.

One of the Moscow companies offers digging wells from concrete rings at a cost of at 2,000 rubles. for work in depth in 1 ring (0.8 m), the cost of the ring itself is 2,000 rubles. Digging a well with a depth of over 16 m will cost 2,450 rubles. for each subsequent ring. If you order a cottage - it will cost you 6,000 rub.

Another company offers its services at lower prices. The cost of installing one ring is 1,800 rub., and the installation of the house - RUB 5,500 In addition, you will have to pay at least 150 rubles for rolling the ring. for every 20 m and delivery of materials. The cost of a well 15 m deep will cost at 100,900 rub. taking into account materials for the bottom, house, etc., excluding transportation costs.

The company “Svoy Well” also digs wells from 2,000 rub., installation of a house from 5,000 rub., and sells the rings themselves 1,500 rub. a piece.

Average prices in the Moscow region per ring - 1,900 rub., and for digging for one ring - 2,000 rub. However, if there are difficulties with removing soil, groundwater, soil, then the price may be higher. On average, a turnkey well in the Moscow region can cost 9 m deep - 68,000 rub., for 18 m - 145,500 rub. with a house.

Digging wells is very labor-intensive process associated with many nuances that are difficult for a non-specialist to understand, so it is best to contact an organization engaged in digging wells, which has specialists to carry out geodetic developments and all technological processes.

Despite the growing popularity of wells, a well for drinking and/or industrial water still occupies significant place among hydraulic structures used for water supply to country and village houses, as well as summer cottages. Such popularity of a village ordinary well is due to the possibility of combining the function of a water source and a storage tank that retains a significant volume, which, if necessary, can be used at a high rate and replenished when there is no consumption. The most common water wells are made of concrete rings, combining simplicity and efficiency of installation with practicality and durability of operation.

Existing types of wells

Classification into types is usually carried out based on the material design of the shaft wall, which can be:

• wooden;
• brick;
• stone;
• from concrete rings;
• made of monolithic reinforced concrete;
• from polymer rings.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as indications and restrictions on use, depending on the size and depth of the hydraulic structure.

One of the first artificial structures, due to the availability, low cost and ease of processing of the material, was a wooden well, which, despite its diversity construction materials, produced by enterprises construction industry, remains the most accessible, especially if there is a forest near the dacha or country house. As structural elements For wells made of wood, sanded solid logs, timber, round timber split in two or thick boards can be used. The final choice is made for reasons of economy and labor-intensive processing and assembly of a log house from one material or another, which in turn is determined by the availability of suitable tools and skills of the craftsman who decided to build a water intake.

Wood has long been used as a material for wells

The size of the structural elements is selected depending on the depth of the well, based on the following considerations:

• log diameter – 120 – 180 mm;
• the thickness of timber, boards or cuts is from 100 to 150 mm.

Wood species have different hardness and resistance to moisture, so when packing it is recommended to take:

• for the lower part immersed in water - alder, elm or oak;
• for the surface part not subject to contact with water - pine.

Mine made of stone

A hydraulic structure capable of challenging the palm in the matter of priority for the appearance of wooden log house, is a stone well. It is quite possible that the first well was made entirely of natural material, representing stones selected to size, collected in a cylindrical shaft and fastened together with clay. Today, the construction of stone wells for drinking water involves the use of a thick sand-cement mixture with a high content of Portland cement as a binding material to ensure waterproofness of the structure, which is also achieved by using granite, rubble stone or dolomite as the main material, which, unlike limestone and sandstone water from the outside, which guarantees its supply exclusively from the aquifer.

Stone mine

A reliable construction of a well made of natural stone involves the manufacture of a reinforced concrete support frame at the bottom of the shaft, which is a massive base for the entire structure and ensures its stable positioning in connection with the intermediate and upper wooden element, which, in combination with reinforcing rods, acts as a skeleton. The metal rods connecting the elements of stone wells to each other are equipped with threads at the ends, which allow them to be secured to wooden round frames using nuts, screwed on both sides and tightened until they make firm contact. The number of intermediate frames is determined by the depth of the structure, but there must be at least one when excavating up to 2 meters and located at a distance of 1 to 1.5 meters at a lower bottom level. To strengthen the structure, every 5 - 6 rows of masonry should be equipped with a closed ring gasket made of double-row steel wire with a diameter of 0.5 - 1 mm.

Brickwork instead of stone

Development construction technologies and the appearance of artificial stone, which after firing acquires water repellent properties, made it possible to build the first brick well, which is still in use today. The structure of a brick well is similar to that described for a structure made of natural stone, while the thickness of the supporting frame must be at least 100 mm and the width exceed a quarter of a meter, which will allow laying one or one and a half bricks, depending on the chosen scheme. Wooden elements of brick wells must be at least 80 mm thick, and their width exceeds the width of the masonry by 20 mm or more.

Start of bricklaying

To cut a brick well into horizontal plane had the shape of a ring; when laying, specially prepared templates are used, made in the form of a circle segment and providing the necessary profile of the shaft. The gaps between the last row of bricks and the intermediate or upper frame are filled with masonry mortar, which is compacted.

An alternative material for constructing a brick well for water is iron ore brick, obtained by burning the workpiece and is practically impermeable to moisture.

Assembling a shaft from concrete rings

The most practical in terms of installation time and ease of use is a well made of concrete rings, which can have a diameter of 800 to 1500 mm and a height of 300 to 900 mm. The construction of a well, assembled from concrete rings, provides for careful sealing of the joints of structural elements using special waterproofing mixtures, by filling and coating on both sides. If the depth of the well does not exceed 6 meters, then it is practiced to use concrete pipes, having a diameter of 600 - 700 mm and a length of 3 - 4 meters.

The rigidity of the structure of a water well assembled from concrete pipes is achieved by installing external plank formwork, which protects the structure from the shearing effects of soil layers, or by welding metal pieces of reinforcement or other profiles to the external embedded plates.

Monolithic concrete wells

The greatest depth of installation of a water well can be achieved by installing a completely monolithic reinforced concrete structure obtained from:

• method of gradual build-up by rearranging the formwork from bottom to top;
• sequential pouring of rings to the height of the enclosing form, undermining and lowering it deeper, after which the reinforcing frame is built up and the formwork is reinstalled. The operations are repeated as many times as necessary to reach the aquifer.

The construction of reinforced concrete monolithic wells for drinking water is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming activity, which can be rationally used only if it is possible to perform the work one-time by arranging continuous double-sided formwork and reinforcement cage to the full height, followed by periodic pouring of the entire volume, at intervals necessary for compacting the concrete using deep vibrators. External formwork elements of wells with such an organization of the process are permanent and subject to backfill together with a monolithic shaft.

Assembling a shaft from plastic elements

Polymer wells are an innovation on the market of dacha hydraulic structures and have not yet become quite widespread, although they have the entire set of positive properties necessary for this:

• the final cost is comparable to water wells constructed from concrete rings;
• an order of magnitude smaller mass of structural elements, which at the same time have a greater length (1500 mm);
• high tightness of the assembly, achieved due to threaded connection elements and even exceeds the indicator that reinforced concrete wells have, due to the complete waterproofness of the walls;
• acceptable operating pressure on external and internal walls – 50 kPa;
• operating temperature from -70 to +50 0 C;
• service life over 50 years.

Polymer wells

Alternative to plastic corrugated pipes, with the ability to absorb external loads comparable to that of concrete wells, can be a polymer-sand composition used for the manufacture of rings 200 mm high and with a wall thickness of 45 mm. The diameter of a water well made from such parts can only be 970 or 1060 mm, since the manufactured elements have only these dimensions. The assembly scheme for a well made of sand-polymer rings involves fixing the links using special locks that ensure structural rigidity.

Well construction

All considered types of wells equipped for water extraction include:

• a bottom with a filter layer, which is a base made of geotextile and/or gravel, the thickness of the layer determines the degree of purification of the incoming water, but must be at least 100 mm;
• a trunk having windows in the lower part, filled with porous concrete, if the well is located on a water-resistant layer and not on sand;
• a head that rises 0.6 - 0.8 m above the ground and serves to install equipment, a canopy and/or a cover;
• a clay castle obtained by excavating 25–50 cm of soil and filling it back with clay, which is a waterproof barrier to surface runoff. Necessary for types of water intake wells that do not have waterproof walls.

Some authors, answering the question: “What types of wells are there?”, supplement the existing classification with pipe hydraulic structures, which is not correct, since due to the ratio of the diameter of the hole in the ground to its depth, it would be more correct to classify them as wells.

To design and build any type sewer system, you need to collect the necessary set of materials. To monitor the performance of the sewerage system, special systems are used - wells. Their role is very important in the sewerage system; it is through them that the system is cleaned.

This article will discuss, because most of them are made from different materials and come in all sizes.

Design and structure of sewer wells

As a rule, the structure of a well for sewerage has a typical structure:

• Manhole cover (upper part of the well);
• Neck;
• Camera;
• Mine;

Depending on the material and which the well is made, there may be different sizes products. The type of underground communications determines the shape of the underground chamber.

The dimensions and type of well are determined based on the requirements that are presented for the communications that will be connected to the well. As a rule, the height of the working chamber of the well is 180 centimeters.

The well shaft is made in the form round section. Most wells have a ladder to make it easy to get down into them. Each well must be covered with a lid. It is needed to prevent debris and dirt from falling into the well, and also to prevent someone from falling into it.

You can often hear on the news that an animal or person has fallen into an uncovered well. That is why it is strictly forbidden to use a sewer well without a cover.

How to correctly calculate the size of a sewer well?

For pipes that have a diameter of up to 300 millimeters, round wells with a diameter of up to 1 meter are used. In this case, the working chamber of the well must have a diameter of at least 700 millimeters.

If the diameter of the pipes is more than 300 millimeters, then it is recommended to install concrete wells that have a bottom diameter of up to one meter. In this case, choose rectangular shape bottom. With this design it will be convenient to make holes for the pipeline.

Advice! When installing a well, you must ensure that the angle between it and the pipes is no more than 90 degrees. If wells with differences are being installed, then this figure can be changed. If pipes of different diameters are connected to the well, then they are connected along the pipes.

Main types of sewer wells

Today there are the following types of wells:

1. Corner well
2. Passage well
3. Rotary sewer well
4. Control well
5. Station well

The main tasks to be performed by the structure in future work are determined based on the installation of the well.

The main and primary task for anyone sewer hatch- monitoring the entire operation of the sewer system.

With the help of sewer wells, you can perform tasks such as:

• Reducing the distance in an adjacent system;
• Elimination of differences in inlet and outlet pipes;
• System cleaning;
• Collection of dirt and waste that collects in wells.

Sewer inspection wells

Currently viewing sewer wells are divided into the following types:

• Linear well - installed in three sections of the entire sewer system. The main thing is that the system has a direct direction.
• Rotary well - installed in places where the direction of the system changes.
• Nodal well - performed to connect several sewerage systems.
• Control well - designed to connect the yard, block and street sewer networks.

In order to install a linear well, you do not need to have any specific skills. Installation is quick and easy. The length of the well depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Helpful information ! The minimum length is 35 meters. In this case, pipes with a diameter of no more than 150 millimeters are used. Maximum length systems can be up to 300 meters. In this case, pipes with a diameter of more than 2000 millimeters are used.

A rotary well is a kind of point where maintenance of the well is carried out, taking into account cleaning the system high pressure water.

Rotary wells are installed at each bend of the rotary pipe. Why do you need to do this? The fact is that rotary wells provide better access and make it possible to service the supply pipe.

Drop wells are a separate point. Their main purpose is to level the supply pipe.

Drop wells are made in order to reduce the depth of the pipeline that is laid in the ground. The differential well limits the maximum permissible flow rate.

Main types of drop wells

Depending on the design of the drop well, the following varieties are distinguished:

• Changes in which there is a drain of water of a practical profile. There is a water well in the downstream;
• Tubular drops. Such wells have different designs, but they are all united by a single element - vertical pipe;
• Drops that have a spillway wall;
• Chess multi-stage changes. They have different designs. In design feature - each stage extinguishes the energy of the flow;
• Rapid flow wells. They have small channels with a large slope.

Basic sanitary requirements for the construction of differential sewer wells

According to the terms sanitary requirements When installing a sewer system using pipes with a diameter of no more than 600 millimeters, it is not necessary to install a differential well.

When a sewer system is being constructed, the drop height of which is up to 3 meters, it is necessary to install tubular drops.

Celebrated! A well for flushing is installed at the beginning of the network. It will serve to flush the network in those places where the flow is weakest.

You can install a regular inspection well, which will act as a flushing well. Sometimes special structures are used that are equipped with a water supply.

It is necessary to know all the design features of the well, as well as its elements that are part of the well. The well must be marked. Don't neglect the labeling.

Most often, prefabricated reinforced concrete structures are used, which are carried out in accordance with GOST 8020-56. Round concrete wells have diameters: 700, 1000, 1250 and 1500 millimeters. Accordingly, hatches are selected in accordance with GOST 3634-91.

Materials for sewer wells

From modern manufacturers today you can get sewer wells that are made of different materials.

Reinforced concrete, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and fiberglass are used.

Rectangular and round wells are produced. Round wells are most often used for sewerage.

Why do you need waterproofing of wells?

Despite the fact that there is always moisture in the well, it must have reliable waterproofing. First of all, you need to protect the well as much as possible from the ingress of external wastewater into it.

Today you can choose one of several dozen waterproofing wells. If you are making a reinforced concrete well, then you can buy any material on the market as waterproofing. These are special compounds. It is important to study the instructions for using waterproofing before starting work.

Little advice ! In order to insulate the seams of a concrete well, it is necessary to use a special mixture for this purpose.

Before applying a layer of waterproofing, it is necessary to prepare the concrete structure. The loose surface is removed, using a brush it is cleaned and dried. A metal brush is used. If there are places where water flows, a recess is made in the form of a “swallow’s tail”. It is laid 5 centimeters deep with a mixture for waterproofing.

Special attention is paid to waterproofing at the joints. Professionals advise additionally moistening the joints. Then after some time you need to fill them with a special solution.

Only then do they begin to apply waterproofing to the entire surface of the well. It is recommended to apply several layers of waterproofing at once. At a minimum, three layers are used. The first layer should dry for about a day. One layer is applied every day.

Advice! When waterproofing a well is carried out within three days, it is necessary to eliminate loads on the well, and also to prevent influence on the well low temperatures. It is important to remember that the surface must be slightly moistened during all three days. Usually a spray is used. You can simply cover the well with polyethylene. Moisture will not leave the well and its concentration will increase.

It takes at least two weeks to complete the internal waterproofing of the well.

As a result, we can say that, despite the variety of drop wells, they are also used for other purposes. For example, a well can be used to wash away sediments that collect in the system if the flow rate and power in the pipes is quite low.

From a practical point of view, it is worth noting that it is best to use wells that are made of lightweight materials. The fact is that a well made of concrete has heavy weight. In turn, its installation will require a unit of lifting equipment, as well as transport for delivery to the work site. In order to connect pipes to a concrete well, it is necessary to additionally make holes, which must then be well sealed.

Plastic and polyvinyl chloride wells do not have such disadvantages. You can easily install them yourself. You can easily bring a well on the roof to a country house plot passenger car. There is no need to make holes for pipes. They are already provided there. Their plastic wells come in absolutely any size and design, which clearly makes them more attractive against the backdrop of concrete structures. The service life of a plastic well is long, while concrete product has a limited service life.

Today you can find several types of wells in the construction hypermarket. The cost of a plastic well will be an order of magnitude higher than a concrete one, but the advantages of the first are obvious. If you need to create a convenient and reliable sewerage system, then you need to use the best building materials.

Most of the work on arranging sewer wells can be done independently. Clear instructions and regulations must be followed. This way you can save significant money on calling a specialist. However, if you are not sure that you will be able to do everything yourself, you can always turn to professional plumbers for help, who will help you complete all the work quickly and efficiently. They have certain work experience and the necessary set of tools and equipment that will be involved in all work.

Sewage systems are designed to drain liquid waste from places where people live and work. Structurally, the sewerage system consists of two main parts: pipelines and wells. Wells are intended primarily for inspection, cleaning or repair of areas sewer pipe. Designs are classified into several types: by purpose, type of material, device.

Types of sewage drains

Types of wells are classified according to the type of wastewater required for disposal:

• Industrial wastes. These include waters that have changed their chemical composition as a result of industrial activities. As a rule, this type of sewage system has special collection, drainage and treatment systems.
• Domestic waste. These are waters mixed with various wastes from residential complexes. Pollution can be divided into household and fecal. In the private sector, both types of wells are often installed in a spaced pattern: fecal wells are closer to the roadway for pumping and removal, and utility wells are located in the back of the yard or garden. Subsequently, the gray waste can be pumped out independently, for example, to a compost heap.
• Atmospheric and drainage effluents. These are rain, melt, flood waters, and sometimes groundwater. The familiar gutters on the roof are the sewage system for atmospheric wastewater. Water can be centrally collected in special containers for watering the garden or distributed to low-lying areas of the site, arranging there, for example, small pond for ducks. Drainage drains are installed at high groundwater levels in order to protect the underground structures of buildings as much as possible.

The sewer systems themselves are divided into floating and export. The floaters move wastewater into wastewater treatment plants or city collector. The latter are designed to collect wastewater into an autonomous well with subsequent removal by special ATX transport.

Classification of wells by purpose

Different wells and purposes:

• Cumulative. These are, as a rule, tanks with a capacity of 3 cubic meters. m or more, intended for direct collection and short-term storage of wastewater with subsequent removal. Pumping is carried out either with special equipment or independently. Most of the storage wells are domestic and atmospheric.
• Collector. Designed to collect wastewater from several sewer systems and distribute it to a common collector or to city wastewater treatment plants. Typically include alloy and storage systems microdistrict or residential complex.
• Filtering. The design of the well bottom provides for the release of gray water (not contaminated with toxic waste) directly into the ground in a natural way. These small treatment facilities can be cleaned of accumulated dense fractions once every year or two. They are installed mainly in sandy and sandy loam soils, in the absence or low location of groundwater. This type of rafting sewer well is quite economical and does not require frequent maintenance and cleaning.
• Observations. They are constructed on sections longer than 50 m, as well as at turning points and junctions of highways. Necessary for auditing the operation of the sewer system, for cleaning and possible repairs. Installed in both types of sewer systems.
• Drops. Set up in areas with large differences heights when it is necessary to reduce the natural slope of the pipe. Such wells are installed in waste and float sewers.

Separate from everyone else are the so-called septic wells. They have a filter and storage element of the system. Modern septic tanks are capable of processing organic waste. They are reluctant to use due to their high cost.

Types of materials for wells

Wells are made from various materials. Most often used:

• ceramic brick;
• cinder blocks;
• limestone;
• stone;
• reinforced concrete structures;
• sheet steel;
• plastic and composite materials.

From ceramic bricks, cinder blocks, limestone-shell rock or any stone make round wells. They are suitable for small volumes. One person can build such a well.

Brick wells in Lately are becoming less and less popular due to their labor intensity. Distributed in autonomous systems sewerage, mainly in the private sector.

Reinforced concrete wells come in two types: monolithic concrete and prefabricated concrete rings. Monolithic wells are designed for small volumes. They can be done without the use of special equipment. They are quite labor-intensive to perform - it is necessary to set up the formwork and reinforcement, prepare it, lay it correctly in layers and cure it concrete mixture, remove the formwork, arrange the ceiling. If the depth is shallow, the shape of the well can be any.

In urban areas, prefabricated wells are the most common. They consist of standard prefabricated rings of a meter in height and diameter, bottom plates and a covering with an opening for a hatch. The advantages of wells of this type are quick installation and significant depth. Disadvantage: involving equipment for transportation and installation of concrete elements.

Metal wells are a container made of sheet steel. For such purposes, old tanks, large-diameter pipes with welded ends, and welded rectangular structures are often used. Before installation, the metal is carefully primed inside and out, inlets and hatches for inspection are cut out. The main disadvantage of such a well is the susceptibility of iron to corrosion and the impossibility of repair. Metal wells are used very rarely in everyday life, because installation requires special equipment, and the cost of iron on the secondary market is quite high.

Plastic or composite wells tolerate temperature fluctuations well, are airtight and durable. Such structures are functional, durable, light in weight, easy to install, and resistant to chemical influences.

Storage well: example of a device

For example, you can consider detailed device storage and filter wells, as the most common in the private sector of the city and country cottages.

The volume of the well depends on the number of people living and the equipment installed in the house. In modern two-story cottage, as a rule, there is a kitchen sink, a bathroom with a sink, a toilet, washing machine and a dishwasher on the first floor and a toilet with a sink or shower on the second. Such equipment is optimal for a comfortable stay for a family of an average of 5 people. As stated above, it is best to arrange both types of wells: storage for collecting fecal waste and filtering for household waste.

A storage well is installed in the lowest part of the site to ensure the best movement of water through the pipeline. This well is only for collecting fecal matter from toilets and it must be made of concrete rings or plastic container factory made.

Before installation, reinforced concrete rings must be coated with a special waterproofing compound, and the joints are sealed. Plastic wells, despite their higher cost, are preferable because they are more convenient to install and operate. It is better to entrust the selection and installation of such a well to a special organization. The well must be accessible for a tank truck to pump out sewage.

Filter well: example of a device

The filter well has similar functions and design, but it does not have a bottom. The base of the well is a multilayer filter made of layers of sand and gravel of various sizes. You can make such a well from concrete rings or brickwork - in the lower part, several rows are laid with holes in a checkerboard pattern for water to escape. Wastewater do not linger in the well and go into the ground without hindrance. It is best to direct slightly polluted water into this well, for example, from a bath or kitchen. After installation, line the bottom of the well with crushed stone from the outside so that the soil does not penetrate inside the trunk.

Perhaps in the near future, robotic systems for repairing and cleaning pipelines will appear. But until this wonderful time comes, people will need to climb into sewer wells day and night, winter and summer and perform difficult, dirty, but the right job to ensure cleanliness in homes.

Secondly, take a soil sample and determine its type; thirdly, based on the data obtained, select the type of well that is most suitable for construction in specific conditions; fourthly, determine optimal location wells on site based on sanitary standards.

Types of wells

Depending on the location of the aquifer, key wells and shaft wells are distinguished.

A key well is built if there is a place where the water of the aquifer comes out to the surface of the earth: the aquifer, encountering an obstacle in its path in the form of an aquifer, sometimes finds an outlet to the surface of the earth, forming keys (springs). If on a low but level area the water comes to the surface with some pressure, then you are dealing with an ascending spring. In the case of a downward spring, water flows down a slope slowly, evenly, without pressure.

The construction of mine wells is carried out in those areas where there is no open outlet of water to the surface, but there is an underground aquifer with a depth of up to 20 m.

Wells built on springs

This type of well is the simplest and most economical. Its design depends on what key it is built on: ascending or descending.

Rising key well

At the point where the jet of the ascending spring exits the surface of the earth, a small construction site(round - about a meter in diameter, square - with sides of the same size). Based on the area of ​​the future log house, remove the top fertile layer soil, and the soil is slightly deepened, the walls of the well are strengthened with brick or rubble stone, and a frame is installed in the recess. The log house can be concrete or wooden.

Ascending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - place of water outlet; 3 - drain hole; 4 - tray for draining water; 5 - drainage groove; 6 - clay; 7 - gravel

The installation diagram of the log house should be such that its lower edge is below the upper level of the water rise (see figure). The height of the log house depends on the wishes of the owner, but if the upper edge of the log house is much higher than the level of rising water, then a drain hole must be made in the wall of the log house. Otherwise, water may escape from the well.

Under the drain hole, a tray is attached to the wall of the log house to allow water to drain. As a rule, it is also used to draw water from a well. This is much more convenient than scooping it out of the log house, and besides, the water in the well will not be polluted.

To drain the water flowing through the drain hole, it is necessary to lay a deep groove. The walls and bottom of the groove are coated with a layer of oily clay and lined with flat rubble stone.

To prevent water from seeping into the gaps between the walls of the depression in the ground and the walls of the log house, they are sealed with a thick (at least 20 cm) layer of greasy clay; The clay is laid on top with natural stone or covered with crushed stone or gravel.

Well washed gravel, crushed stone or river sand(large fraction) the bottom of the well is also covered. The bottom filling layer will act as a natural filter. Its thickness must be at least 10 cm.

To prevent atmospheric water from mixing with the well water (in the form of rain, snow), a fairly wide (up to 30-40 cm) blind area of ​​rich clay is made around the well frame, which is laid on top with brick, rubble stone, concrete or asphalt. The top of the well should always be covered with a tight lid.

Descending Key Well

The water of a downward spring often contains particles of silt, mountain sand, soil, etc. Therefore, the frame of a well built on such a spring must have a partition with a filter layer of crushed stone or gravel. At the point where the key comes out to the surface of the earth, an area of ​​about 1 square meter is leveled. m. It should be taken into account that descending springs are, as a rule, located on slopes, but the site for the well must be horizontal (a building level can be used for control).

Next, the soil is dug into which the frame is installed. The gaps between the walls of the soil recess and the walls of the log house are sealed with a thick layer of greasy clay, and the bottom of the well is coated with clay, which is then necessarily covered with hard material: lined with brick, stone, concreted or covered with boards (see figure).

Descending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - key exit location; 3 - clay; 4 - hard bottom covering; 5 - filter layer; 6 - drain hole; 7 - tray for water drainage; 8 - drainage groove

A filter layer of pebbles, crushed stone or coarse washed river sand is poured onto the bottom covering; A partition with holes is installed on top of the filter layer.

Having settled in the lower part of the log house, under the partition, the water flows to the top, already cleared of impurities, silt, soil, etc.

Similar to an ascending key well, to drain excess water, a drain hole is made in the log house, under which a tray is fixed to drain the water. From the well excess water drained by a deep groove paved with rubble stone.

Mine wells

When the aquifer depth is up to 20 m, shaft wells are built to obtain water. The cross-section of the shaft varies between 0.8-1.5 m. The main components of the shaft well are:

a) head - ground part. For ease of use of the well, the height of the head should not be made more
0.8-1 m;

b) shaft - underground part, or shaft.

In the lower part of the trunk - the water intake - water is collected and stored. The height of the water intake is in the range of 0.75-2 m. In the event that the thickness of the aquifer is small and, accordingly, the flow of water into the well occurs in small quantities, to accumulate water, the water intake part of the trunk is made expanded or a well with a sump is built.

The sump is the lowest part of the trunk, located below the level of the impermeable layer.

Wooden wells

If the material for constructing the well is wood, then the walls of the shaft are reinforced with logs or cobblestones. In this case, the cross section of the well trunk is a square or rectangle.

Construction of a log house

The first step in building a well is digging a shaft. If the mine is digging in quicksand, loose, soft or weak ground, then as it deepens, the finished walls are strengthened with formwork. In medium and hard soil, no formwork is required.

The depth of the mine depends on the depth of the aquifer; this value is determined even before the start of excavation work using special instruments. As you approach the calculated depth of the shaft, the vertical walls should be strengthened with formwork.

After the shaft is dug to the required depth, the accumulated water is pumped out of it, the bottom is leveled and the frame is installed - the lower crown of the log house. If the soil density is less than weak, then the frame may tilt under the weight of the upper crowns. To prevent this from happening, large flagstones are placed under the corners of the frame in such soils. And so that the log house does not float up when the well is filled with water, the lower crown is dug into the ground (after installing 2-3 subsequent crowns).

Next, the subsequent crowns of the log house are laid. To more tightly connect the crowns of the log house with each other, each log is planted with blows from a badger (large mallet), however, the blows are applied not directly to the log, but to a wooden spacer placed on it.

It should be remembered that in each individual wall of the log house the top of the stacked log must lie on the butt of the already laid

After laying each crown, you should check the verticality of the walls of the log house using a plumb line.

At the level of the sixth crown, work on the construction of the log house is temporarily stopped and the filter layer is backfilled, for which the bottom of the well is covered with layers: large gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm), medium-sized gravel (5 cm), coarse river sand (20 cm).

In the event that the water receiving part of the trunk reaches the lower waterproof layer and water enters the well not only from the bottom, but also through the lower part of the frame, then for its influx, holes must be made in the grooves of the logs of the lower crowns, and the gap between outside fill the log house and the walls of the shaft 10 cm above the aquifer with gravel or crushed stone. Moreover, the thickness of the backfill should be at least 25-30 cm.

Arrangement of collaterals for a wooden log house: 1 - flagstone or board; 2 - deposit; 3 - wedge

As the log house is being made, to secure it more firmly, pledges are made every 5-6 crowns: the logs for the crowns with pledges are taken not of a specified length, but 50 cm longer. The elongated ends of the logs are placed into specially constructed trenches, the soil in which is carefully compacted (see figure). If the soil is loose, then large flagstones or thick boards made of hard (but moisture-resistant) wood should be placed as collateral. Fastening the bail in the ground will be more reliable if it is jammed.

The grooves of the crowns of the part of the log house that will be above the water are coated with greasy clay. This is done to prevent soil water and perched water from leaking into the well. This can be avoided if a clay castle is used to insulate the well (coating the outer surface of the log house walls with greasy clay). If the castle is installed along the entire length of the log house, then a clay layer thickness of 15-20 cm is sufficient. If the castle is installed only in its upper part (about 2.5 m), then the thickness of the clay layer should be at least 30-40 cm.

It is not recommended to soak the walls of the log house with an antiseptic, paint them, or caulk grooves and cracks with hemp or tow. All these measures negatively affect the taste, and most importantly, the quality of water.

The gap between the outer walls of the log house and the walls of the shaft (regardless of the presence or absence of a clay castle) is filled with layers of soil removed during digging of the shaft, each layer of backfill is carefully compacted.

After the last crown of the underground part of the well shaft has been laid, the area around the well is covered with logs, on which thick boards are laid (the boardwalk is attached to the logs with long nails). Required condition: the flooring must completely cover the edges of the backfilled shaft. Then the ground part of the well - the head - is made and installed on the upper crown of the trunk. After this, an embankment of soil with a slope from the well (with a diameter of at least 2 m) should be built on top of the flooring. The top of the embankment is coated with a layer of greasy clay and concreted or laid out with concrete slabs or flagstones.

Construction of a log house using the lowering method with building crowns from above

At first construction work a pit is dug no more than 3-5 m deep. The bottom of the pit is carefully leveled and compacted. Then a lowering frame made of logs or timber is placed on it. The frame must have pointed legs, or knives made of sheet, strip or angle steel must be attached to its edges (Fig. 21). The cross-sectional size of the frame must exceed the same size of the ordinary crowns of the log house.

Two frame rims are placed on the lowering frame. The logs of these crowns should be larger than the logs of ordinary crowns and protrude from outside of the log house by at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that when the log house is lowered, the clay from the grooves between the row crowns (clay castle) does not crumble or be wiped off.

2-3 privates are placed on the frame crowns. The crowns are pressed together with a leopard, and the grooves between the crowns are coated with greasy clay. After checking the verticality of the walls, thick boards are nailed to the logs along the inside of the log house with long nails. From the outside of the log house, guides are nailed to the logs (see figure), their task is to ensure fastening strength and rigidity of the entire structure.

Around the erected part of the log house (close to the guides) four logs are placed, connected “into a bowl”. The corners formed by the logs are fixed with stakes about 10 cm thick, which are driven into the ground. The connection of the logs with each other, as well as the places of their contact with the stakes, are secured with staples. This design will allow the log house to be lowered strictly vertically, without distortions.

Devices for erecting a lower frame: a) – frame with pointed legs; b) - frames with cutting knives

When the lower rims of the log house are secured, and the equipment for lowering the log house is installed, soil is removed from under the walls.

To lift buckets upward, various devices are used in the form of a tripod with a block, a crane, a vertical or horizontal gate.

After removing the soil to a depth equal to the height of the already constructed log house, the top of the log house is covered with boards, and a load is placed on the boards, under the pressure of which the log house lowers down.

Further construction of the log house and its lowering into the well trunk is carried out in the same order.

As the length of the log house increases, fastening boards are built up with inside frame and guides - from the outside. Upon completion of the well construction interior boards are removed, and the guides remain in the ground.

The construction of the well is completed in the same way as the previous method: by manufacturing and installing the above-ground part of the log house and installing blind areas around the well.

Tube wells

Reinforced concrete rings, brick and stone masonry are used as building materials to secure the vertical walls of the well shaft.

Tube wells are more hygienic because, unlike wood, concrete, stone and brick absorb foreign impurities and odors much less and are easier to use.
clean.

Prefabricated wells made of reinforced concrete elements

For the construction of prefabricated reinforced concrete wells, reinforced concrete rings are most often used.

In the dug pit of the well shaft, the first reinforced concrete ring is installed on the leveled bottom, the outer diameter of which should exceed the outer diameter of the row rings by 5-6 cm. To make the ring cut into the bottom soil more easily, you can use any of the following options: a steel knife with pins is installed along the lower edge of the flashing ring. If the lower edge of the ring has a cone-shaped narrowing, then you can do without a knife.

To prevent contaminated water from leaking into the well through the connecting seam between the casing ring and the first row, the joint is sealed with tarred fibrous material (hemp, rope, etc.). Outside surface joints are sealed cement mortar after installing the entire well shaft.

Then the rings are fastened together with steel staples about 20 cm long. The staples can be installed both on the outside of the barrel and on the inside. The holes after installing the staples are also sealed cement-sand mortar. Before installation, the staples themselves are coated with a layer of oil paint and dried well.

For ease of repair and preventative work A vertical ladder is installed inside the well shaft. For its construction, staples are used.

After installation, the entire well shaft is cemented outer side joints between the rings, and the gap between their outer walls and the steep walls of the shaft is filled with soil, which is carefully compacted. Next, the protective flooring is removed from the bottom of the well and a filter layer of gravel, crushed stone or river sand is installed.

A head is installed on the upper edge of the upper ring, and blind areas and fencing are made around the well.

In addition to rings, you can build a prefabricated reinforced concrete well from plates (bars). The ends of the reinforced concrete bars must be molded “into a claw”, and the trunk of such a well is assembled by analogy with a cobblestone log house.

Wells made using brickwork method

In addition to brick (red or iron ore), for the construction of a tubular brick well you will need several round frames - flat rings, inner diameter which should be equal to the diameter of the future well - and anchors with washers and nuts, based on 6 anchors for each frame.

The main frame (it is installed on the bottom of the well) should be the strongest; it is made of reinforced concrete, metal or bog oak. The thickness of the main frame is 9-10 cm, and the width should slightly exceed the thickness of the masonry. A steel knife is installed along the entire outer edge of the frame with the blade facing down. 6 holes for anchors are drilled in the frame at equal distances from each other.

Intermediate and upper frames can be made from wooden planks no more than 8 cm thick. Their width may be slightly less than the thickness of the masonry. The boards are fastened together with long nails, the ends of which should be bent. 12 holes for anchors are drilled in the intermediate frames, and 6 in the upper frames.

6 anchors are firmly secured to the lower frame using washers and nuts and lowered into the pit, checking with a level that its installation is horizontal. The intermediate frame is placed on the anchors of the lower frame and firmly secured. For greater strength, the structure is secured on top with logs (see figure).

Some stages of the construction of round brick wells: a) – frames with anchors; b) installation of anchors in the intermediate frame; c) – plastering the inner wall of the well: 1) beacons; 2) fry

After all the preparatory activities, you can proceed directly to the laying. A bed of cement-sand mortar 1-1.5 cm thick is placed on the main frame and leveled, on which the bricks of the first row of masonry are laid. The masonry is carried out using only bonded rows or alternating them with spoon rows, but in any case, the first two rows of masonry are carried out only in bonded rows.

To make it easier to save round shape well trunk, you can make a template from waterproof plywood in the form of a ring of two halves and use it to control the quality of the masonry.

In the bricks laid near the anchors, recesses are made for the anchors, which are filled with mortar. Since the masonry is carried out along a ring, and the inner diameter of the ring is smaller than the outer one, a gap forms on the outside between the bricks, which should be sealed with fragments of brick mixed with mortar. To ensure the strength of the masonry, it is reinforced with thin double wire every 3-4 rows.

When there is a gap of 5-6 cm between the masonry and the intermediate frame, the masonry is suspended and anchors are secured to the frame, the gap is sealed with a mixture of masonry mortar with crushed stone or gravel (in a ratio of 1: 3) and thoroughly compacted.

Next, you should plaster the lined walls with cement-sand mortar both inside and outside the well shaft. For the plastering process, you will need 6 smooth, even slats with a length corresponding to the length of the anchor, and a screed - a wooden semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the diameter of the well. The slats will act as beacons. They are attached to the wall at the locations of the anchors. Plastering is carried out in two stages: first the spray is applied, and then the main outline. To level the tent, rest the fry on two adjacent beacons and, using its up and down movements, level the solution. The beacons are then removed, and the recesses remaining from them are sealed with mortar. After plastering the first grip (the distance between the main and intermediate frames), soil sampling continues - the shaft is deepened by 1 - 1.5 m. Then a second intermediate frame is installed on the anchors of the first intermediate frame and masonry continues. To fix the well at the required depth, flagstones or reinforced concrete slabs of such a size are placed under the knife of the main frame that they protrude beyond the boundaries of the well by at least 0.5 m.

Upon completion of the construction of the brick shaft, the bottom of the well is cleaned and filled with a filter layer of crushed stone, gravel or coarse river sand.

The head of a brick well can also be made of brickwork, but without frames and anchors. The top of the masonry is reinforced with steel wire and poured into the formwork with cement-sand mortar to a height of 20-25 cm.

For better resistance to precipitation, the upper edge of the head should be rubbed with iron plating (sprinkled with dry cement and rubbed with a trowel).