Why is it done on a wooden floor? The reasons why such an issue is on the agenda are: the need to dismantle sections of the floor to replace internal structural elements; leveling for the purpose of laying over the old laminate or carpet covering; arrangement of a flat and durable base for tiled cladding. Each specific case may have its own nuances related to the design of the ceiling. But in general, there are two main ways to level it and prepare it for installation of a new topcoat. We will talk about them in this publication.

This method is called dry, since it uses sheet materials attached to the frame or surface of the old floor (depending on the situation) mechanically, using nails or self-tapping screws.

Note! Alternatively, the sheets can also be attached with glue, but for this the base must be perfectly flat. And this method will no longer be dry, but combined.

Dry screed installation options

Here are the materials mounted on the frame that can be used in a dry screed.

Table. Review of materials for dry floor screed.

Materials for dry screed	A comment
	To align it with the frame, use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 16 mm, and preferably 20. Thinner ones will sag. It is very convenient to work with sheets measuring 1250x2500 mm.
	Wood-polymer OSB boards almost as strong as plywood. For installation on joists, you need to take slabs with a minimum thickness of 18 mm. The sheet format is the same as that of plywood.
	Cement particle boards are one of the best solutions for leveling wooden floors. The sheets are non-flammable, have sufficient strength and good adhesion. Therefore, they are most often used to prepare the base for laying ceramic tiles.
	Moisture resistant chipboard sheets, having a tongue around the perimeter, are very convenient for leveling the floor. Moreover, there are options on sale with decorative coating, so with their help you can make not only a subfloor, but also a finishing one. In any case, when installing on joists, you need to take slabs with a thickness of 16 mm and higher. The size of the sheets for the subfloor is 1830 or 2440 mm in length and 600 mm in width. Decorative options– the so-called QuickDeck slabs have dimensions of 900 by 1200 or 900 by 800 mm.
	The thickness of any material that does not rest on the base over the entire area determines the loads that the coating will have to withstand. If you are making a floor on a loggia where there is no furniture, a thickness of 10 mm gypsum plasterboard is sufficient. But in general, floor elements are produced in a smaller format than for walls and in greater thickness - 1200x600x20 mm.

In most cases, sheet materials are mounted according to wooden joists, but this material tends to rot and is highly susceptible to linear expansion. Therefore, some masters prefer instead wooden beam use a galvanized steel profile for the frame, which is usually used when installing drywall.

Only here, to compensate for unevenness of the base and provide the necessary indentation, instead of straight hangers, steel angles 3 mm thick are used, as shown in the photo. This frame turns out to be more rigid and, importantly, does not creak like a wooden one. In this way, you can mount not only gypsum fiber boards, but also, as you can see, . You just need to use self-tapping screws with conical heads so that they are well recessed into the thickness of the sheet.

What other ways can you attach GVL for a dry screed?

Note! As for the gypsum fiber sheet, this material can be mounted on both expanded clay backing and expanded polystyrene sheets. Bedding, of course, is not so convenient for a wooden base, because it may simply be too heavy for it, but as for PPS slabs, this is an excellent option. However, if the old floor has large unevenness, it is impossible to properly level it using this method.

Calculator for calculating the required materials for dry screed

Specify the total area of ​​the loggia and click "Calculate quantity Supplies"

Room area, m²

Calculator for calculating expanded clay backfill for dry screed

Enter the requested information and click "Calculate the amount of backfill"

Room area, m²

To what height is it planned to raise the base floor base, mm

AT A HEIGHT OF 110 mm AND MORE, AN ADDITIONAL LAYER OF GVL IS REQUIRED!

For an additional layer, GVL will be used:

It is planned to use a screed to equalize the difference in the level of the slab, mm (if necessary)

Adjustable systems for dry floor leveling

Speaking about dry leveling methods, one cannot fail to mention the relatively recent technology for installing an adjustable floor base. The point is that sheet material it is installed not on the frame, but on vertical threaded elements, with the help of which you can level the floors both on slabs and on joists.

This method has many advantages, so its popularity is only increasing. This is low labor intensity and, accordingly, high speed of work; the possibility of leveling is sufficient large differences; high leveling accuracy; low loads on the base, which is especially important in the case of old beam floors.

But the most important thing is that any communications can be hidden in such a structure and elements of a heated floor can be installed. There is one minus, the same as with all other options - the floor can creak. The sound insulator placed inside also does not solve the problem, so you will either have to be prepared to endure unpleasant sounds, or choose a different alignment method.

Option 2. Installation of a monolithic screed

In general, experts do not recommend leveling wooden floors with the help of. It may be too heavy for the old flooring, which will accelerate its destruction. And this order of arrangement of layers violates the immutable rule of construction: the base must be stronger than the coating in contact with it. Therefore, you need to make sure that they do not contact each other.

The most important thing is proper preparation of the base

However, in special cases it sometimes becomes necessary to fill the screed according to wooden floor. Since these materials have completely different properties, the main task The problem that will have to be solved is to make sure that the mobility of the wood does not interfere with the long-term service of static concrete.

Important! During the first 4-5 years of operation, the boards are most susceptible to shrinkage phenomena, so only old wooden flooring can be poured with concrete. In a new one, as a result of the loss of moisture from the wood, after some time cracks appear and the linearity of the boards changes.

The last stage of preparing a wooden base, if it is not a painted floor, will be treatment with a biocidal-hydrophobic primer, which will slow down the process of its destruction and extend its service life.

When renovating a house or apartment, a master may encounter a problem with a wooden floor. Over time, such coatings become creaky and lose their evenness. Various types of damage may also occur. To shorten the duration repair work, it is best to install new flooring without removing the old wood floor.

To level the base, a screed on a wooden floor laid under the tiles is perfect. It is important to consider this option, since installing tiles is the most difficult task for wooden floor. The material is characterized high density and has a strong impact on underlying structures. If you understand how to make a screed for tiles, there will be no problems with other coatings.

How to make a screed

There are two options for performing the work:

• standard concrete pouring;
• using the dry method.

The second option is more suitable for wooden floors because it has the following advantages:

• small weight;
• ease of manufacture;
• convenience of laying communications;
• ability to correct errors;
• no wet processes;
• there is no need to wait for drying, which is required cement strainer.

But there are also disadvantages for use in the home:

• making a dry screed requires a greater thickness than the concrete one is made (the height of the room is reduced);
• due to the increased thickness, the consumption of materials is higher than when creating a traditional base.

Depending on the conditions, requirements and wishes, you can choose between two options when laying material under the tiles.

Work production technology

Screed under tiles on wooden floors should be done in a strictly prescribed manner. When renovating a house, you first need to inspect the ceiling and floor structures. Identify weak points and make sure there are no serious damages. If traces of rot, mold, fungus and other microorganisms are found, it is better to selectively replace the elements of the wooden floor.

Scheme for preparing a wooden floor before laying tiles, part 1
Scheme for preparing a wooden floor before laying tiles, part 2

Using a screed, you can eliminate unevenness and strengthen the surface before fastening flooring, but it will not be possible to get rid of serious defects. The base for the tiles must be level and strong, since it will have to withstand heavy loads. To prevent problems during operation, it is better to timely replace and remove old boards in the house.

After inspecting the old floor, you can begin the main task. Make a classic fill wet screed It is recommended in the following order:

1. If there was previously a cement screed on the floor, it can be removed by grinding or milling.
2. Checking the reliability of the fastenings of the flooring boards to the joists. If they are not securely fastened, squeaking will occur during operation. To prevent this, all elements of the old floor must be securely attached to each other.
3. Next comes cleaning the surface from old contaminants. You will need to remove grease, traces of glue, old paintwork, various impregnations, dirt and dust.
4. If necessary, you should sand the surface of the old floor with a special machine. In this way it is removed upper layer, the base under the tiles becomes smoother.
5. If there are unevennesses on the floor with a height difference of more than 1 cm, you need to do preliminary leveling for the tiles. To perform the work, you can use various leveling mixtures based on a cement binder. The surface of the boards is covered with the composition; cracks can be repaired using putty. Water-soluble putty compounds cannot be used.
6. Instead of baseboards, slats are installed around the perimeter of the walls, which will cover the distance between the old floor and the wall. Thin slats are installed followed by puttying. This strip is removed after completion of the work. With its help, a gap is provided that will allow air to enter the space under the floor. For wooden covering this is extremely important, because if ventilation measures are not taken, the wood will rot and cause problems during operation.
7. The leveled surface must be primed in accordance with the technology of this process. Buy for priming ready mixture. A layer of this material will not only increase adhesion, but also improve the spreadability of the mixture for pouring the subfloor over the surface when performing repair work. When processing, the floor must be dry, the work is performed in two times.
8. Having finished with the previous stage, you need to lay a reinforcing mesh under the tiles. The diameter of the elements is assumed to be 3-4 mm. Cell dimensions 50 by 50 mm. This stage can be neglected, but it ensures greater reliability of the foundation and the ability to withstand higher loads.
9. When preparing the solution, the proportions must be observed. It is better not to make it yourself, but to buy a ready-made dry mixture, the preparation of which requires only water. This will avoid mistakes when choosing the proportions of components and reduce the complexity of the screed pouring process.
10. The mixture must be applied in one go. If you carry out work in several stages, the layer will not work as a single whole, cracks, tears and unevenness will appear. For application, use notched spatulas. Control the thickness of the application using beacon guides or marks on the wall surface.
11. After completing the laying of the mortar, it is necessary to allow the concrete to cure. This process takes several hours under normal conditions. After this time, you can walk on the floor carefully, but it will not be ready for full use earlier than in a couple of weeks (in summer period, for the winter season the timing increases).
12. Take out the slats installed around the perimeter of the walls instead of baseboards. After this, if necessary, grinding can be done (no earlier than 6 hours after pouring).

Wooden floors are quite reliable and durable, but they themselves do not last forever. Over time, it becomes necessary to additionally lay the screed on the prepared wooden base.

Concrete screed It is usually applied to a wooden floor only in cases where it is necessary to level it under some kind of coating.

If the wooden floor is not subject to complete restoration, then use this method alignment.

In fact, the screed is considered as a surface element, the base of which is intended for a concrete floor with subsequent laying of the covering. the main objective Screeds are the leveling of the floor surface. Depending on what kind of coating should be, the following types of screed can be distinguished:

• for wooden floors;
• for installation of a heating system;
• dry and semi-dry screeds;
• concrete screed.

Often done before laying ceramic tiles, polymer floors, or when installing a heated floor system, but we will look in more detail at the features and laying of concrete screed on a wooden floor.

Before you begin laying the concrete screed, you should prepare necessary materials and tools:

For large volumes of leveling work, a concrete mixer is indispensable.

• plastic film;
• sand;
• cement;
• epoxy putty;
• acrylic sealant;
• plasticizer;
• construction beacons;
• moisture-resistant primer;
• polyurethane foam;
• steel mesh;
• hammer;
• level;
• mixer for mixing the solution;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screws;
• putty knife;
• roller, brushes;
• scotch;
• with sand.

Sequence of laying concrete screed

The technology for laying concrete screed includes the following steps:

The most accurate level markings can be obtained when using a laser level, but it is quite possible to carry out alignment with the help of beacons using a regular building level

• to start work, it is necessary to dismantle the old covering and install additional logs, since after the pouring process the screed will become much heavier and will sag greatly;
• if there are rotten boards, then they need to be removed and new ones laid in their place. This replacement is usually carried out on old floors;
• seal cracks and irregularities. During education large cracks use polyurethane foam, coat the joints acrylic sealant, and then leveled with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is also used when filling small gaps between boards;
• the next stage is sealant treatment. This operation is performed after the putty and foam have dried. Next, apply a waterproofing primer using a roller or brush in two layers. This primer is used to simultaneously cover the lower part of the walls (approximately 10-15 cm). Then they lay waterproofing film with a spare overlap of 10 cm on the wall. After that, a steel mesh is placed on the film and screwed in with screws;
• Next, markings are carried out and beacons are installed. The most accurate level markings can be obtained when using a laser level, but it is quite possible to carry out alignment with the help of beacons using a regular building level;
• start preparing the solution, observing following proportions: capacity of clean sand – 3-4 parts, cement grade 400 – 1 part. Then add to the solution clean water and special plasticizers that provide the screed with the highest quality.

Kneading cement mortar carried out in a large plastic container, using a drill and a special mixing attachment. After thorough mixing, the solution is left to settle for a short time, after which it is mixed again.

Material consumption should be approximately 15 kg/sq.m. m with a screed thickness of 1 cm. In the absence of a plasticizer, ordinary washing powder can be added to the solution so that a handful of powder corresponds to 100 liters of water.

Using the beacons as a guide, the solution is poured onto the floor. It is necessary to fill the entire floor at once, since it is unacceptable to perform this operation in parts.

The beacons are removed from the set solution, and the same solution is poured into the formed grooves. That's it, the screed is ready.

Leveling with self-leveling mixture

Any finishing coat must be laid on smooth and flat surface. This problem can be solved with self-leveling mixtures, the solution of which easily spreads and is distributed around the entire perimeter, forming a smooth surface.

Preparation of the solution

Work on leveling a concrete floor using a self-leveling mixture must be carried out very quickly, because its drying speed is high

Screed on a wooden floor is not the best solution for installing a new floor. However, despite this opinion, if all technologies are followed, it is actually feasible. In addition, there are designs wooden floors which, being in good condition, are easier to fill with self-leveling flooring than to redo the entire floor structure.

This article will be useful for those who are building their own Vacation home. Having made a self-leveling floor over a wooden one, it is easy to lay tiles in the bathroom or kitchen at home.

Also for owners country houses information about septic tanks from concrete rings. You can get information about septic tanks and place an order.

Wooden floor structures

Before you start talking about screeding a wooden floor, you need to understand the designs of wooden and plank floors.

It hardly makes sense to screed a wooden floor that is laid on joists and a 220 mm thick floor slab. The thickness of such a wooden floor is 70-77 mm and the best solution for such a floor would be to remove the wooden floor along with the joists and make a screed along concrete slab ceilings

Screeding a wooden floor makes sense if the floor joists are high brick pillars. The height of such pillars can reach 30-40 cm (or more) and it is not possible to replace them with a screed. You can see two photos of schemes for such floors below.

It is precisely floors of this design that can be discussed as a possible basis for a screed.

Features of screed on wooden floors

Before deciding to screed a wooden floor, pay attention to the following:

A screed on a wooden floor is an unconnected screed, that is, the layer of such a screed will not be connected to the bottom layer of the base and will be an isolated layer of the floor, not connected to anything. This leads to some features of screeds on wooden floors.

Firstly, the wooden base for the screed must be very strong and completely motionless. Depreciation, which is so characteristic of a wooden floor, should be completely eliminated. If the wooden floor possibly vibrates, the screed above it will crack, which is unacceptable.

Secondly, depending on the selected material for the screed, the thickness of the screed can be quite thick. For example, when using a cement-sand mixture for screed, the thickness of the screed should be from 10-12 cm. The weight of such a screed will significantly increase the load on the wooden floor. If we take into account that the wooden floor is laid on joists, and there is a step between the joists (the distance between the joists), then as the load on the wooden floor increases, the distance between the joists must be reduced. IN large rooms the distance between the logs can reach 85 cm. Therefore, having decided to make a cement-sand screed in big room, you have to disassemble the floor, reduce the step between the joists by installing new joists and restore the wooden floor again.

It’s a lot of work, and perhaps you should think a hundred times before making a cement-sand screed on a wooden floor in a large room.

In order not to disassemble the floor and not reduce the distance between the joists, use not a cement-sand mixture, but, for example, anhydrite floor levelers. The thickness of such a screed is from 30 mm, the leveler does not require reinforcement and can be used for unbound screeds.

Third, A cement-sand screed on a wooden floor is made, always with a reinforcing mesh. This is done, again, to increase the strength of the screed. Moreover, fiberglass in the screed will not save you from using reinforcing mesh. That is, for a semi-dry screed, you will also have to make a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100×100 mm.

Conclusion. The use of cement-sand screed for large rooms with wooden floors is not justified by labor-intensive work. However. If the circumstances and conditions are such that it is impossible to avoid screeding a wooden floor, then to install the screed it is better to use a leveler suitable for independent screeding rather than using a cement-sand mixture. And in general, I would not consider a cement-sand screed as a priority for screeding on a wooden floor, although the use of a high-quality leveler will significantly increase the cost of the screed material.

Material for screeding on wooden floors

To make a screed on a wooden floor you will need the following material:

• Polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, for waterproofing the screed layer from wood and walls;
• Mixture for screed. Read about choosing a mixture a little higher. If you choose a cement-sand mixture, then prepare a reinforcing mesh, preferably with a stainless steel coating. The mesh should not be in rolls. Why not in rolls?

You have to fix the reinforcing mesh on a wooden base, but you must not disturb the waterproofing, that is, do not tear the film. Think about how you will attach the mesh. At the same time, think about how you will attach the beacons for the DSP screed, because there is nothing to attach the beacons to, the base for attaching the beacons is polyethylene.

Why am I making these notes? In my opinion, the device cement-sand screed It is better not to do it on a wooden base in large rooms. The amount of work and problems will completely overshadow the result. Replace DSP with “Rovnitel” for isolated bases (unbound screed). For example, an anhydrite floor leveler.

Wood screed technology

The wooden floor must be strong, immovable, dry and not rotten. The same applies not only to the floor boards, but also to the joists and pillars on which it is laid. Rotten boards need to be replaced.

Important! Do not screed on a newly laid wooden floor; it may become deformed. The age of the wooden floor for screed must be more than one year when the floor is used in the range of home temperatures. Although I can’t imagine who needs to screed a new wooden floor.

The heads of the nails with which the boards are nailed need to be recessed a few millimeters so that they do not tear the layer of waterproofing film that needs to be laid on top of the boards.

If your apartment is on the ground floor and there is a basement or ground below you, then the seams between the boards need to be filled with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is chosen because it does not allow moisture to pass through. The seams are sealed so that evaporation does not form between the film laid under the screed and the boards.

If the joints between the wall and the floor are wide, then seal them construction foam, and on top with epoxy putty and liquid waterproofing.

After the putty has dried, polyethylene 200 microns thick is spread on the wooden base. Polyethylene is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls. Two adjacent pieces of polyethylene are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm. Seal the joint between the pieces of polyethylene with non-wetting mounting tape. Tape the overlaps to the wall with tape.

The polyethylene should lie flat, without folds. Under the polyethylene there should be a clean wooden base free of debris.

Preparation of the solution

Let me remind you that we make a screed from a mixture of leveling agent. We make the screed solution according to the instructions on the package. The leveler mixture is added to the water, not the other way around. Stir the mixture until it becomes thick sour cream. mechanically, mixer at low speed.

How to check the thickness of the mixture

To check that the consistency of the mixture is correct, find a container with a diameter of 70 mm so that it can hold 1 liter of solution. From this cylinder, pour 1 liter of solution onto a 50x50 cm plexiglass plate. The diameter of the spread solution should be 34-38 cm. This means that the density of the solution is correct. The density of the solution must be checked constantly.

Set the screed level

The unbound screed with leveler must be more than 30 mm. For a wooden floor, choose 50 – 60 mm. It is better to measure the level of the screed laser level. If the room is very small, it is enough building level. Using the laser level, draw a screed line along the wall and place benchmark beacons (levels on legs) along the floor surface.

Filling the screed

The finished leveling mixture is poured continuously over the entire surface of the floor from the far corner to the exit. Helpers will be needed for successful pouring. One dilutes the mixture, the second continuously pours the solution, the third levels the solution according to the level of the beacons and marks, using a special metal rod with oscillating movements (raising and lowering the rod) along and across the cast surface.

Caring for a poured screed

In a room with a poured screed there should be no drafts and low temperatures. If you did use a solution from CPS, then cover the screed with polyethylene. Anhydrite self-leveling floor must be protected from excessive insolation (direct rays of the sun) for 2 days, too high temperature, drafts and water. After two days the room needs to be ventilated.

Some conclusions of the article

• Before screeding, evaluate the structure of your wooden floor;
• Cement-sand screed is very heavy and will put a lot of stress on the wooden floor, so you may have to reinforce the wooden floor;
• If possible, replace the DSP with a high-quality leveler for an independent screed;
• DSP screed on a wooden floor is cost-effective only for small rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms;
• Think a hundred times before using a screed on a wooden floor in houses with wooden floors, remember the load.

• And one last thing. If you plan to use tiles as finishing, replace the screed on the wooden floor, if possible in level, by laying cement bonded bonded boards (CBB).

All photos from the article

The question of whether it is possible to screed a wooden floor is not even subject to discussion among specialists. This possibility almost always exists, so any of us can level the base on the boardwalk using mortar. Naturally, leveling technology has its own characteristics, so before starting work it is necessary to study all available information on this technique.

Base requirements

Screed on a wooden floor under tiles or other coverings is carried out when we need to obtain the most even and stable surface, practically not subject to deformation.

Actually, it is from these considerations that the basic requirements for the flooring on which we will pour the solution are formed.

• Firstly, neither wet nor dry screed on a wooden floor should move during hardening and use.. Accordingly, the plank layer must also be completely motionless, therefore, before starting work, it must be properly strengthened.

• Secondly, the thickness of the cement-sand layer in some cases (for example, when laying a warm water floor) can reach 10 - 12 cm. Accordingly, the mass of the solution will be considerable, and the load on the base will increase. It is for this reason that in some cases it is necessary to strengthen the structure of a wooden floor by laying additional logs or.

Note!
In residential premises, the pitch of laying lags is sometimes 75 - 90 cm.
For pouring screed, the optimal distance between the support beams is about 40 cm.

• Thirdly, even with perfect execution of the previous points of complete immobility wooden flooring we will not be able to achieve this, which means that the cement screed on the wooden floor will experience deformation loads. To prevent it from cracking, we must place reinforcement in the thickness of the cement - either a mesh of reinforcing wire or steel/polymer fiber.

• Finally, you need to keep in mind that the price of the work and its labor intensity in this case will be quite high. It is for this reason that it is worth considering the possibility of using thin-layer self-leveling coatings based on anhydrite or laying plywood boards.
  Naturally, these are only the most General requirements, which extend to the base. We will tell you in the next section how to prepare the boardwalk for work and how to fill the solution as efficiently as possible.

Screed arrangement process

Necessary materials

Before we make a screed on a wooden floor, we need to buy everything that is needed for successful work. The task before us is not too difficult, so the shopping list will not be long.

To make it easier for us to navigate, let's put it in the form of a table:

Operation	Materials	Tools
Preparing the base	Wood putty. Polyurethane foam. Acrylic sealant. Boards for replacement. Additional lags.	Putty knife. Hammer. Manual cycle. Gun for polyurethane foam or sealant.
Waterproofing the floor	Moisture-resistant primer for wood. Polyethylene film (minimum 200 microns). Edge polymer tape.	Roller or brush for applying primer. Knife for cutting film.
Installation of beacons	Lighthouse slats.	Rule. Level.
Screed reinforcement	Reinforcing mesh made of galvanized steel or reinforcing bars (6 - 12 mm). Steel or polymer fiber.	A gun for tying reinforcement or ordinary pliers.
Filling and Alignment	Ready-made cement-sand mixture or a composition prepared independently.	Container for mixing the solution. Shovel for concrete. The rule is on a long handle. Scrapers for leveling the surface. Level.

Note!
Here we present full list materials and tools necessary for work.
Naturally, having chosen one of the technologies (for example, deciding that the floor screed on a wooden floor will be poured using ready-made composition), this list needs to be amended.

Preparatory work

So, to the question whether it is possible to pour a screed on a wooden floor, we gave a positive answer, we also purchased everything necessary for the work; you can begin performing basic operations.

And before you pour the screed onto the wooden floor, you need to prepare it:

• We carry out an inspection of the coating, if necessary, replacing all rotten and deformed boards.

Note!
It is better to take replacement parts that are as dry as possible so that over time they do not begin to rot.

• If necessary, we eliminate the deflection of the boards by placing additional logs.
• We deepen the heads of the nails protruding above the floor plane using a hammer.
• Using a scraper or plane, we cut off large irregularities.