Make electrical wiring in the house on your own - It is a simple matter, but it requires care and scrupulousness.. If you approach this matter responsibly, the wiring will serve you for many years and will be guaranteed to be safe.

Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the wiring in the house yourself and save a sufficient amount. The basis of all subsequent types of construction work, after the construction of walls and roofs, or before major repairs, is the correct installation of electrical wiring. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.

Moreover, it is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. Equipment can be bought, but we will try to talk about the necessary knowledge in a popular way.

How to make electrical wiring?

1. Wiring diagram.

In most cases, the wiring diagram is compiled by the owner of the construction arbitrarily, in other words, from the bulldozer. And, as a rule, when the masters who came to do this work are standing over his head.

The schema is as follows. Using a piece of chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches near the doors, and sockets in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?

After the completion of construction work, the sockets are behind the furniture, and the switches are behind the open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.

The quality of the execution of the wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after the completion of construction work.

Therefore, the wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.

There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - an oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own machine.

It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating pipes, water pipes and gas in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the place of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.

The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to consider the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.

If you are in doubt whether to put an outlet here or not, put it on. It is better to have an extra outlet than not have it in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.

And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.

The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.

In the off position, the upper part of the switch should protrude, and in the on position, the lower part.

Two single-gang switches will always be better than one two-gang. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.

The switchboard should be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near the front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. In no case in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in the wardrobe. Near it there should not be any connections of sanitary communications. All current-carrying parts in it must be closed.

2. Wire selection.

The wire must have conductors with different colors of insulation. Therefore, you need to take the entire wire of one manufacturer with the same color range of cores.

For wiring, it is best to use a solid copper wire, brand VVG - flat in double insulation. Better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked with trusted and well-known manufacturers. When buying, require a quality certificate for it from the seller. Do not take unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in the house is done for more than one year and you can’t save here.

Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross section, copper wire can withstand power 1.5 times more than aluminum. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very important. In addition, copper wire is more durable, strong, less prone to corrosion than aluminum.

And now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use a stranded soft wire of the PVS grades (like this - it is double-insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this) - they are mainly used only for extension cords. Such a wire has more resistance, and the electrical conductivity is lower than that of a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to lay in the manufacture of wiring.

Do not use for electrical wiring in an apartment or house, at the same time wires of different brands and from different metals.

And now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting the wire section. So that the wire does not heat up, one of its squares or 1 mm2 of the wire section must carry a total current of not more than 9 amperes, that is, devices with a power of not more than 2 kilowatts can be connected with such a cable.

Based on this, the following cable with a cross section of one core must be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:

One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a ground loop equipped in accordance with all the rules, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules for organizing electrical wiring require the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a ground wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and bitterly pay for it.

3. Choice of equipment.

When buying sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on withstand power. Do not buy very cheap and very expensive. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.

Buy installation boxes (sockets) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.

If you plan to make a panel strip from sockets and switches, then the sockets should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them to each other, at a certain distance.

Circuit breakers, and other switchboard equipment, buy only well-known and trusted brands. It's not worth saving money here.

4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire laying.

In houses with wooden walls, wiring is done externally. If you need to make an internal one, then only in a metal pipe. Sockets, switches and junction boxes in a wooden house can only be installed outdoors. If it is necessary to install internal, then also only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located only outside the walls.

In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near combustible structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the outside of the finished walls, a plastic box is used.

For internal wiring, two methods are used. The first, under plaster - from above along the walls, and the second, with cutting grooves - strobes in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the strobe, without protrusions. To cut the strobes, they use various equipment - from a grinder with a diamond disc to a puncher and a special chasing cutter.

It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only with right angles. It can not be laid randomly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.

The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle, the wires have less ability to dissipate heat and can overheat. Also, there should be no intersection of wires with each other.

The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on how thick the ceiling will be (plaster, stretch, drywall), a junction box is placed and a wire channel is formed horizontally to the floor.

If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.

Such norms exist so that after covering the wires with facing materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this rule can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, as well as at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.

At the connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire with a length of at least 25 cm.

The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite diverse. A single wire is best strengthened with the help of such a herringbone mount. It has various shapes and sizes. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this "herringbone" on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is fixed. For mounting a metal or plastic sleeve with a wire, there are also a variety of fasteners.

When outputting wires to the switchboard, they must be marked, glued with masking tape indicating exactly where this wire goes.

5. Wire connection.

Now attention! An important point.

Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.

The wire intended for powering electric stoves, flow heaters, that is, for powering powerful electrical appliances, with a cross section of 4 mm2 and above, cannot be cut, connected and branched. It must be solid, and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to put a separate machine in the shield.

This rule must never be broken!

The order of connecting the wires, in each case, is different, depending on which consumers are suitable for each particular box.

But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.

Attention! For a break, a wire with a phase, and not with zero, must be connected to the machine or switch.

The connection of wires must be reliable, safe and durable.

Simple twisting is prohibited by the electrical installation regulations. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. The twisting of copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this is a guarantee of huge problems in the future.

And now about the methods of connecting wires.

The first way is welding wires with a welding inverter. First, a twist is made, and then its end is connected by welding. But not everyone at home has such a welding machine.

The second way is compression. Special sleeves of a certain size are put on the wires to be connected and, using special press tongs, are pressed into the sleeve. But not everyone, again, has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $ 20.

The third way is soldering. The twist of wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with certain skills, of course.

After all these methods, the wire connection must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.

All of the listed types of connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, time-consuming, and already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.

So here I want to say a very important remark.

Namely, why is it not necessary to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?

Because, any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, no additional tools and insulation are required for such a connection. Everyone can connect the wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection with the help of terminal blocks is collapsible.

Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. In modern electrical wiring, a cable with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm2 must be connected only with terminal clamps, and machines no higher than 16 amperes should be used for them.

And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.

6. Verification of the completed electrical wiring.

Be sure after the wiring, you need to once again check the correct connection and connection of all wires visually. You can check them with the device. For such a check, there are special devices for sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, it makes no sense to buy such a device for the home; it is easier to do an independent check by spending an extra hour or two. If errors are found, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.

7. Assembly and installation of the switchboard.

The main thing that should be in the shield is a meter and circuit breakers - one common and several for consumer groups. All other equipment, RCD, difavtomat, voltage relay and more, it is advisable to install in order to protect the life of the household and the integrity of the connected electrical appliances.

The main machine is needed in order to de-energize the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. A difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged, it breaks through the heating element or other element onto the housing. When a person touches damaged wires or non-insulated parts of the equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.

Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leakage, the other from overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a machine and connect the phase and zero, having received a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.

The differential machine is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, the differential machine is able to protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from the occurrence of current leaks.

The voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it goes out of the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.

The circuit breaker must be accurately sized for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to put an automatic machine of less power than a larger one. In order for the machine to work earlier and turn off the power, than the wire overheats, a short circuit occurs and the wiring catches fire.

Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that feeds it from overheating.

About what kind of machine you need to protect the cable with what section, I already spoke above.

The main mistake here is that people are trying to install machines with more power, which is why wiring burns out and apartments burn out.

The wire does not heat up if a device of the appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine in terms of power higher than the calculated one.

The machines are of various categories. I won't explain the differences to you.

You only need to remember the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use machines only with the English letter "B".

For lighting, you can use automatic machines of category B and category C.

And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.

Attention! In no case should category D machines be installed in the apartment; they are designed for powerful machine tools and electric motors with high starting currents.

8. Installation of socket boxes.

A place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall can be drilled using a puncher with a special nozzle - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket.

Socket boxes are installed after carrying out all the necessary finishing work with the walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket on the wall with a complete and finished finish.

This process is simple. The hole for the socket, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening mortar, it can be a mortar of building gypsum.

Then the socket or switch box must be inserted into the hole, aligned to the wall surface and horizontally with a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.

In drywall, a hole for the socket is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and fixed with side clamps.

9. Installation of sockets and switches.

There are no special tricks here. It is necessary to remove the top cover of the socket or the switch keys. Connect the wires to the terminals, after cutting them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Fasten the device to the socket with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides to the stop, which press the special fastening tabs to the socket. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch keys.
After installing sockets, switches and a shield, we apply voltage to the wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.

10. And the last.

You can do the wiring in the house yourself with your own hands, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what a phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter incorrectly perform. For example, when building a dacha, I only got to a normal electrician on the fourth attempt. Electrical installation is a very important section of work to trust it to non-professionals.

If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tool he has for this. Real electricians have a whole set of special tools to carry out all types of electrical wiring work. And if electricians come to you who have one hammer for two and that one is borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them in the neck.

Ask the master where he has already done the wiring and ask the owners about the results. By the way he makes an order for consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After starting the editing, carefully follow its work, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do the wiring yourself, follow these rules too.
What is not clear, ask in the comments, and you will succeed. Remember that successful wiring depends on care, attention and following the instructions.

Choose the right wires, the power of the machines and try to do high-quality wiring with your own hands.

Video. How to make electrical wiring in the house?

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

Wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house is expelled, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determination of the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
• . It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install electricity in the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
• Ground loop device and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining an act.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

Determining the total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not the rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out as a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in a modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly something important was forgotten, or something new powerful will need to be turned on, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of automata in it is also selected by the number of groups: a separate automaton goes to each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the electrical panel is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines; it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield. The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the automatic machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the scheme is standard - RCD + automatic, counter and further division into groups. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - the protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring should be done in a private house with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-prong plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.

Determining the cross section of the cores

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the conductors of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color they marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electricians in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation. The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:

• External - when the case sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, a mounting box is installed and walled up in it. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

Read how to connect walk-through switches (turn on / off the light from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls are then lined with sheet materials - drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all joins must be made in ;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the point of connection of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the cores ring among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged somewhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.

Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment is not safe. A team of experts warn: working with an electrician is high level, not for beginners. If you are a seasoned builder, confident in your abilities and follow all safety measures, then go ahead. Today we talk about all the nuances of installing electrical wiring in a house, apartment and garage.

Wiring diagram in the house

Home wiring begins with a detailed plan. needed for several reasons:

1. allows you to calculate the amount of material - how much and what kind of wires are needed, with what sections, how many sockets, switches, junction boxes;
2. determines the location of power and wiring elements;
3. necessary for future maintenance and repair of hidden wiring.

A single-line schematic diagram and a plan diagram of an apartment or house, drawn to scale, with distribution groups applied to it, are necessary for subsequent high-quality wiring.

Both the house and the apartment have an introductory and internal electrical panel. From the latter, lines lead to the rooms.

The main groups into which energy consumers can be divided:

• sockets;
• lighting;
• powerful devices;
• sockets and bathroom lighting;
• sockets and kitchen lighting;
• outbuildings.

We do not recommend connecting all wiring to one group of points - the load is too large.

IMPORTANT! When drawing up the schemes, it is planned to supply the system with RCD protective devices, which are installed on each distribution group.

The drafting of the wiring diagram is influenced by the intended location of household appliances and their power, which determine the number and placement of sockets and the required wire cross-section.

The wiring diagram in the house and the wiring diagram in the apartment differ in the way electricity is introduced: it enters the house via an overhead line, and it enters the apartment via a cable from the shield on the floor. The wiring diagram in the garage may involve the input of electricity from a centralized power line or from a house - overhead or underground.

Wiring in the apartment

The walls in the apartment are concrete or brick, covered with plaster or finished with plasterboard.

IMPORTANT! Wiring in the apartment can be hidden or combined. If necessary, de-energize the room first.

Wiring can be mounted before plaster or mounted in cavities behind drywall. For installation, a pipe, PVC corrugation or a flexible metal sleeve is used. often laid in cable channels.

To ensure safety, automatic switches are installed in the switchboard to protect devices from short-circuit and burnout currents, and protective shutdown devices that turn off consumers during power surges. For the bathroom, we recommend a separate RCD due to high humidity.

Junction boxes and switches must not be placed in the bathroom. Allowed. For a damp room, you need to install a moisture-proof membrane on the internal mechanism of the outlet.

Marking is carried out along strictly horizontal and vertical lines. Power lines must not cross each other. The course must always be parallel to the wall. If the wiring is carried out under the floor, the route should be at a distance of 20 cm from the wall.

IMPORTANT! It is better to use copper wiring - it has a longer service life than aluminum.

The cross section of the wire (at least 2 mm2) is taken more than the calculated one. The latter is determined depending on the planned load on the network. Permissible current density for copper wire should not exceed 8A/mm2. For different distribution groups, a wire with a different cross section is required.

The wire passing through the cavities must be protected by pipes, sleeves or corrugations.

Pulling wiring with metal pipes and sleeves, PVC corrugation helps without disturbing the finish.

All wire connections must be in junction boxes only. They must be accessible so that something can be corrected. You can connect the wires using terminal blocks or soldering. try as well as alternative ways of connections.

Fix the wires and installation boxes for sockets and switches with plaster or plaster.

Outlets throughout the apartment should be at least 1 per 6 m2. In rooms that are rarely used, 1-2 is enough; in the kitchen, it is advisable to install several groups of 3-4 (depending on the number and placement of equipment).

The location of sockets and switches is not strictly regulated, but sockets must be located at a height of at least 30 cm from the floor for safety. Switches can be placed at any height convenient for an outstretched hand.

IMPORTANT! The best wiring equipment from the French company Legrand. For installation, you will need gloves for protection, a voltage indicator, a grinder, a hammer, a chisel for chasing, a puncher, screwdrivers, wire cutters.

You can use a wall chaser, with which two parallel strips are made in the wall. Then knock out a track with a puncher. usually carried out on plaster.

And if briefly. To carry out the installation of wiring in the apartment you need:

1. detailed diagrams;
2. automatic machines;
3. cable and copper wires of several sections;
4. plastic or metal distribution and installation boxes;
5. corrugations;
6. boxes or metal sleeves for laying wires;
7. screws;
8. dowels;
9. nails;
10. fasteners;
11. switches;
12. sockets.

Wiring in a wooden house

Installation is carried out according to the same principles as in the apartment. But the base in the log house is combustible, therefore it is always unsafe.

IMPORTANT! It is impossible to lead wires through PVC corrugations.

The installation is done:

1. From self-extinguishing wires and cables with good insulation (). We have written in detail before.
2. Hidden wiring - through electrical sewerage, which does not support combustion, that is, from metal: copper pipes, steel boxes with grounding. If you use plastic boxes and corrugations, they must be surrounded by a layer of non-combustible material - they must actually be embedded in the plaster.
3. With the use of metal nodes - distribution and installation boxes.
4. With ensuring the tightness of the connections, so that when closing, the electric arc does not go beyond the pipe and does not fall on combustible material.
5. The wood from which the walls and ceilings are made must be dry.

Another mandatory step is the installation of a differential relay or RCD.

IMPORTANT! Electrification work is carried out immediately in full before the installation of floors, ceilings and doors.

Algorithm:

1. we bring the cable into the house from a centralized power line or an external switchboard;
2. according to the scheme we make the wiring;
3. we mount the internal switchboard;
4. prepare holes for switches and sockets;
5. after completion of the finishing work, we install all the devices.