metal dowels in a log house - FOR and AGAINST

The reason may be in the thickness and length of the dowels. The bars hung on them. The bars can hang on the nails after they dry out, and the nails will not give stiffness (try to bend them). Yes, and it is doubtful that they will directly pull the bars down (these are not hairpins).

Perhaps I agree that "these are not hairpins." A very powerful piece. I felt it when I unloaded the 18x18 timber.
Probably, the timber there is very uneven. It was I who looked at the laying of a bar two weeks ago. So, I think, it's too early to "hang" on the dowels from drying out.
And what should you pay attention to so that such a situation (hanging on dowels) does not arise, for example, by the spring of next year?

Here I still have news I wanted to open a new topic even, but while I am writing here: We had a strong thunderstorm (really strong, the rain lashed for three hours without stopping, the neighbors' fence was demolished and the farm buildings broke my greenhouse ... - It's me so that it is still clear that not an ordinary rain has passed. Simple rains are not uncommon and this does not happen. This is the first time, but nevertheless, it is worth writing. In the morning - oil painting - the whole western wall - a bathroom, a wall the steam rooms and rooms on the second floor are wet FROM THE fifth or sixth crown and downward. A pair of lower ones are generally black with moisture and squelch. all this has dried up for hours, if I had come later and would not have noticed, but here - here they are!
The question is serious. If it gets so wet, then in the fall, and it is just around the corner, this western wall (prevailing winds) will constantly get wet. Again, it is unlikely to dry out, autumn is still not summer. Then the frost will pick up and what do we have? - frozen blockhouse, as I understand it. What are the options for what to do? They wrote a lot about vapor barrier - they say it is very important - the steam comes from the inside and the walls can get wet ... It's cooler than any steam to get so wet, at least there should be a laundry inside. How to solve this problem? Has anyone come across? Or I alone was lucky

The "problem" is very interesting. We must also consider this issue at home.
I'm not a builder, however. But I can guess the reasons.
Firstly, it is not said about the thickness of the timber. Maybe he is 10 cm
Secondly, it seems to me that a normal timber cannot pass moisture through itself in such a short time. And for another, longer time. It's not gauze or a colander.
Thirdly, "in a couple of hours it all dried up." Here, in my opinion, the key word "dried up". Namely, 1-2 cm of the timber has dried up. The timber cannot "dry up" in a couple of hours. No wonder, they put houses on shrinkage for more than six months. During this time, perhaps, "dry up" can.
So. Ideas about this.
The bar may not have a chamfer. And the water has flowed (and will flow) between the timber to the inner side of the wall. Perhaps there are finger-thick slits. Probably, the mezhventsovy heater conducts water very well.

Dowels are completely environmentally friendly and safe, do not rust or rot. The use of metal options is not allowed according to the standards. Dowel assembly ensures uniform shrinkage. They also prevent the crowns from sagging during shrinkage. In addition, such a house will be easy to dismantle and reassemble in a new location.

Fasteners advantages:

• Inexpensive budget price;
• They do not contain resin, unlike coniferous wood;
• The strength of birch wood is comparable to that of oak;
• High fracture toughness;
• Fully factory production cycle.

The technology of installing (driving) dowels in a bar

The dowels are driven into the timber only vertically at a distance of 1-2 meters from each other into pre-drilled holes in the very center of the log. It is important to take into account the fact that the moisture content of the dowels must correspond to the moisture content of the log itself. For a bar with a section of 150x150 and 150x200 mm, it is quite enough to install fasteners with a diameter of 25 mm. A bar with a section of 200x300 mm and logs rounded and chopped with an ax with a diameter of 30-32 cm are best fastened in a log house on dowels of 30 mm round section. Installation of metal dowels and dowels made of coniferous wood (pine, spruce, larch) is not allowed. Since conifers with their resin glue the beams and logs together. And this is already a gross violation of building codes and regulations!

Table of technical parameters of the used dowels for beams and logs of log cabins made of wood

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Diy dowels for timber

The construction of timber structures implies the obligatory use of special fastening fragments. Such elements are focused on ensuring that the structure turns out to be of high quality, reliable, monolithic, as strong as possible.

An integral part of the structure are pins, or dowels. It is the quality of this part that determines the reliability of the entire structure. You can easily make dowels for a bar, even with your own hands. The procedure is not particularly complicated. The main thing is to follow the chosen method.

What are wooden pins?

To begin with, you need to figure out what the dowel itself is. The detail is a miniature fragment made with the aim of strengthening the walls of a log house made of timber. In this case, it is the diameter of the dowels for the timber that acts as one of the most key characteristics.

The purpose of the pins can be different. For example, wooden dowels are focused on fixing log structures. The detail allows you to slow down a variety of negative consequences that invariably accompany the functioning of timber structures. This could be:

Such peculiar pins, installed correctly and correctly, will make the building stable. The bars of the structure will be placed in such a way that they will remain unchanged in a couple of months and in several decades.

Spikes for fixing the timber: which ones to choose and why?

The most popular are dowels made from hard wood. The most durable options are oak or birch spikes. It is not possible to deform, bend, or break them. However, there is one condition. They must be correctly fixed. What is their shape and size? The optimal solution is the details of the rounded contours. Their length should not exceed 25 mm. Wooden pins must be smooth, even not only at the point of installation, but over the entire surface. It is these nails that guarantee the longest possible service life.

The installation of dowels in a bar is a mandatory rule for bar and log structures. Birch spikes are the most common option. Such pins cannot become an analogue of self-tapping screws or primitive nails. If they are used, then it is impossible to guarantee the stability and reliability of the structure. It is also worth abandoning the use of fittings. Metal versions can lead to a number of negative consequences, due to the direct interaction of materials with different thermal conductivity parameters. What can the use of metal pins lead to? This could be:

• the formation of condensation;
• covering the surface of the thorns with rust;
• decay of the entire layer of wood.

The nuances of creating dowels

How to make dowels for a bar? This is actually a simple procedure. It is easy to do it yourself. This will require the use of logs of a certain length. The blanks (optimally birch) must be split into many small fragments. It is advisable to make them in the form of squares. Then you need to trim them. This is done manually. It is recommended to give the workpieces a round shape of the required diameter.

It is very easy for owners of a lathe to make pins. With its use, elements are created quickly and accurately. If there are no logs of wood, you can always use cuttings from shovels that have already gone out of circulation. To give them the required size and shape, you just need to cut them. Round parts can be easily created with a circular saw.

Subtleties of fastening pins made of wood

How is the timber fastened with dowels? It can also be done by hand, without using the services of professionals. The work procedure is extremely simple. Using wood spikes will first require finding the middle of the plane used. At this point, you need to make the appropriate markup. This is where the hole will be created later.

Now you need to drill a recess using a drill. It is in it that the dowels will then need to be fastened. This is why it is very important to choose the correct drill diameter. Its dimensions must be identical to the same parameters of the thorn. As for the depth, it is 1.5 bars. The question of which dowels for a 150x150 timber turns out to be quite simple. You can see how this procedure is performed.

In this case, the task in itself disappears: how to drill a bar under the dowels. Of course, the best option is a modern drill. It is much more important to ensure that the hole is machined correctly. The entry angle depends on the position of the drill. It should be strictly perpendicular to the base itself. Competence in performing this step will allow you to avoid problems with editing fragments in the future. It is also worth remembering that if the dowel is located in the bar extremely freely, this will deprive the structure of all the advantages of this kind of fasteners. Excessive density should also be avoided. The length of the dowel should not be more than the established dimensions. The protrusion of the part above the surface leads to problems in the process of inevitable shrinkage of the structure.

Some secrets of the procedure

The dowel made of wood, like the metal versions, is focused on joining 2 logs or beams. That is why there are several secrets of how to properly fix them. Professional assembly of timber on dowels means:

• observance of staggered alternation, taking into account the perimeter of the structure;
• the optimal distance between them is in the range from 1000 to 1500 mm;
• competent combination of openings and bowls of about 300 mm;
• the coincidence of the degree of moisture of the pins with this parameter of the base itself.

The photo shows how to make installation without errors yourself. Holes that had to be pre-drilled with a drill are now filled with core buttons. It is they who are necessary to carry out the markings on the timber. If such a special fragment is not at hand, you can sharpen it in pencil format. Its diameter should correspond to the prepared hole. They should be fastened directly to the center of the base.

The next step is to lay a pair of boards on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. In this case, the parts must be barely pressed against each other. However, most builders are interested in the question of how to drive the dowels into the timber. The spike must be placed as tightly as possible in the groove. There should be no bevels or other defects between the timber and the dowel. In this case, you do not need to drill anything else. Nagel will do his job with ease.

For this purpose, you can use a marking gage. When the spikes are installed, you need to process the fragments of the boards with glue. This will allow you to join the workpieces that need to be firmly clamped in the process and then dried.

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This article was born as a by-product of another article. But I think it will be interesting as a way out of a situation when there is no time or opportunity to go to a building store.

While creating another Mozhochinsky project, I discovered that I had run out of dowels. The time was late, plus it was pouring rain outside, so I didn't see any point in getting out to the store. It was decided to independently make dowels.

Wooden dowels are used in furniture manufacturing for positioning and joining parts made of chipboard, MDF, plywood, solid wood and other materials.

So, for the manufacture of dowels, we need:

• slats, glazing beads or production waste of a suitable size;
• die;
• drill;
• sandpaper.

We take waste that is suitable in size (left over from the manufacture of ironing board legs). We clamp them in the drill chuck.

And we drive it through the die, clamped in a vice.

In principle, this is already a semi-finished product, but you can walk with sandpaper to give it smoothness.

Most of the time, though, I don't. When the dowels are driven in, the “thread” is crumpled and only makes the connection stronger. Yes, and the glue absorbs better.

Now all that remains is to cut into the necessary cubes. For the markup, I made this one.

It's kind of expensive to drive a circular car for the sake of them, but the impeller is the very thing.

In total, we have a bunch of dowels quickly and effortlessly.

The connection on the dowels outwardly looks very aesthetically pleasing, because it does not betray the presence of any fastening device, it seems that the parts hold to each other by themselves. What is this trifle and why is it so popular in the household, now we will figure it out.

Do we know what this element is?

When we say "fastener", we mean that some parts are firmly fixed to them, which can only be separated by aggressive methods. Such reliable products are screws, bolts, etc. But there is another category of fasteners that work for stabilization and positioning, absolutely not interfering with the disassembly of the connected parts in a certain direction... An example of such a group is a dowel. This is a small cylindrical product, sometimes with notches on its surface.

Most often, you can see this product in furniture, for sure you had to assemble at least a bedside table with your own hands. Some parts and hinges are attached to screws, but before that, the main parts of the structure are assembled on the basis of wooden pegs, for which there are already factory holes. This is a furniture dowel, as a rule, it is made of wood, because it also holds parts made of solid wood or its derivatives (chipboard, MDF). Sometimes plastic dowels are involved in the assembly of furniture.

Furniture dowel - production and parameters

External simplicity does not mean that this fastener is made by a handicraft method. For turning dowels, woodworking machines are used, there are even special dowel cutters. The fact is that their dimensions are clearly calibrated in mass production, and for those cases when an urgent minor repair of furniture is needed, a template made of metal is used, in which there are many diameters, choosing the right one, you punch a wooden blank through it, thus making dowels do it yourself. As for plastic fasteners, they are cast in special forms.

In order for such a cylinder to better hold in the hole, corrugations are applied to its surface. They can be longitudinal, transverse, helical, or complex (mixed). You can also find such corrugations on plastic. The diameter of the dowel can be 4-30 mm, and the length can be 1.5-20 cm. You can, of course, make your own product at home according to the given parameters, but this is quite troublesome work to get a round cylindrical piece of wood. All sizes are commercially available, and the price, of course, is quite affordable. It's another matter if you need more exotic types of this mount, we'll talk about this below.

Elements for timber - features of use

In the construction of a wooden log for safety fixation, and sometimes the only one, dowels are used for felling. They are significantly larger in size than furniture ones, they must be ordered or made independently, and you often need to make holes for them yourself. If some other fastening is planned, and this method is only a way of orientation and insurance against mobility in the perpendicular plane to the dowel axis, then you can do everything yourself.

For a log with a diameter of 18 cm, the holes and the diameter of the fasteners should be about 2.5 cm, this should be taken with a drill. If you do not want to grind for a long time to a cylindrical shape, you can make dowels for a bar with a square section of 2.4 cm.In one log you should make at least 3 holes (two at the edges and one in the middle), if it is very short, then two will be enough ... It is advisable to maintain the same depth, so mark the drill to avoid driving it deep. It is advisable to get by with a depth of 4 cm.

The inconvenience of square dowels is that the shrinkage of the house is inevitable, and if it happens out of proportion, the logs will begin to move freely. In the case of round products, this probability is much less. Especially if you have the same species of wood, but this is not a guarantee either, because they may have different ages. Sometimes, to minimize this effect, glue is dripped into the holes or the surface of the dowel is smeared.

There is another option for fastening the connection for the construction of houses from a bar. At first glance, a metal dowel seems more reliable: it does not shrink, it does not shrink, it does not shrink, it is of quite certain dimensions both at the beginning of construction, and after many years, it is very strong, it will not crack with any uneven changes in the geometry of the building. But this product is significantly more expensive in cost, and also will not save the house material itself when the material itself shrinks. Still, they refuse it in favor of natural wooden fasteners.

What is lamella?

There is another interesting option for such fasteners in construction - a flat dowel. In wide circles, it is often called lamella, so it can be found in stores. Its essence is that it is not cylindrical, but really flat, it is also attached using specially made grooves, often sits on glue. The holes are made, of course, not with a drill, but with a special router. It is used in cases where it is impossible to allow the possibility of twisting of parts relative to the dowel axis.

In general, this connection will be the same as in the case of round fasteners, it is quite reliable, resistant to shearing, moreover, it allows mounting of very thin parts. True, you need to be more careful when assembling. Since it is best to glue with water-based glue, and due to the thinness of the fasteners, its deformation will be significant, then you should not hesitate, it is important to quickly place the lamella in the hole. You can, of course, use synthetic adhesives, but very few assemblers vote for this option.

Dowel joining - do you use glue?

Assembly with dowels is possible in two versions: dry or glue... Each case has its own characteristics. If we have ready-made parts with holes, then nothing will be required to drill on our own. It remains only to arrange the parts in the right order, then drive the dowel into one of them, tap it a little so that it fits more tightly and is located in the hole, and then put on the second part on it, and again knock on the part from above so that the second end is also entered firmly. This connection does not hold the parts to break, only to shear, therefore, the fastened structure should be immediately put in the desired orientation, and not upside down or otherwise.

If the installation is carried out without glue, then such an assembly can be disassembled after a while. If there are no such plans, but you want to feel a little more confident about the strength of the fasteners, then you can put the dowels on glue, and the notches on its surface will improve this technique.

Do not fill the holes with glue so that the product then squishes there, it is enough to lubricate the end on one side, and then also process the other end. Moreover, if several fasteners are located on one face of the part at once, then first install all the dowels with one end into the holes, having previously lubricated them with composition or dropping a drop into the hole. And then glue the protruding edges with glue, let them thicken a little (literally a minute or two) and fit the second part, carefully aligning the holes on it with the protruding ends of the dowels. Light tapping on the fitted part will better distribute the adhesive and strengthen the structure. Remember, it is not demountable; if you want to dismantle it, you only have to break it.