Anyone who works more or less seriously on wood sooner or later comes to the conclusion that it is impossible to obtain a high-quality product without milling. But for a decent household milling machine for wood processing you will have to pay hardly less than 20 thousand rubles. Will such costs be recouped and when? Will the selected unit be suitable for your most common milling operations and to what extent? Solving such questions speculatively is extremely difficult and is not always possible. The solution is to make a wood milling machine with your own hands. This will at least make it possible to understand exactly what a particular machine can do and what you can do with it. Perhaps the need to buy will disappear - a homemade product made for yourself will be worth it for years. The material in this article is intended to lead the reader to precisely this turn of events.

Which one should I do?

Dozens of different milling operations and at least a dozen types of machines for them are used to process materials. At home, not all of their designs can be repeated by beginners and intermediate craftsmen. 2- and 3-axis CNC machines (2D and 3D wood milling machines) are not covered in this article. It is possible to make a 2D or 3D milling machine yourself (item 1 in the figure below), but already having quite a lot of experience working on a simple machine, a significant volume of orders and an urgent need for a sharp increase in labor productivity. At the same time, you will have to master programming microcontrollers, because... ready-made samples fully designed for the machine specific design; There will also be significant costs for stepper motors and precision drive parts.

To begin with, at home, you can make a homemade milling machine using any of the following. varieties:

• Horizontal (item 2 in the figure).
• Vertical (item 3).
• Flat copy machine with pantograph (2D duplicator, item 4).
• Machine for volumetric copying (3D duplicator, item 5).

Tool…

The choice of a machine of one type or another is determined, of course, by the work operations most used by the master. To specify their nomenclature, you must first decide which working parts (cutters) you will most need. Most of them are applicable in both horizontal and vertical machines.

Mounted cutters (item 1 in the figure) are processed primarily. straight edges of the boards: grooves and ridges (including shaped ones) are cut out to their full length, and a chamfer is applied. The spindle assembly of the machine for attachment cutters (see below) is structurally the simplest; its parts can be turned by a 3rd class turner. The required drive power for a processing depth of up to 60 mm is from 1.5 kW. The quality of the material is almost any, ranging from raw material straight from the sawmill. A vertical wood router is most suitable for attachment cutters, see for example. Below is a video in 4 parts:

Video: homemade wood milling machine with attachment cutters

There are many more varieties of milling cutters with a cylindrical shank (landing, seating), because their functionality is wider. But for such a cutter it will be necessary to machine a spindle attachment with a Morse taper for a clamping chuck; It is also possible to use ready-made spindle units from a drilling machine.

End mills, e.g. Forstner cutter (item 2 in the figure above) is a specialized tool; They choose round holes with a flat bottom in thin boards with a decorative coating that cannot be damaged. Have you ever hung doors on furniture? The holes for their loops were chosen using a Forstner cutter. The quality of the material is no worse than straight-layered wood of the 1st grade, chamber dried. Required drive power from 150 W. They work with end mills only on a vertical machine or, with a certain skill, manually.

Note: using a Forstner cutter in a 170 W screwdriver to select holes D32 for door hinges in 16 mm thick furniture chipboard is quite possible, I did it myself.

End (finger) milling cutter, pos. 3, can be threaded into both horizontal and vertical spindles. Using end mills, blind grooves are selected (not the entire length of the board) and tenons are cut for tongue-and-groove joinery joints. It is more convenient to work with an end mill on horizontal machine. On a vertical surface, it can be used to select long grooves (grooves) of a rectangular profile on the surfaces of boards and beams. Conical end mills(item 4) also a specialized tool for preparing parts for joining dovetail. They work with conical end mills only on a vertical machine. For both of them, the required drive power for a processing depth of up to 80-100 mm is from 1 kW. The quality of the material is from commercial wood of the 2nd grade, air dried (from a timber exchange).

End shaped (curly) cutters, pos. 5, also a specialized, but highly sought after tool. They apply molding (including on curved edges) and select shaped grooves (decorative grooves) of any configuration in the faces of the boards. Drive power from 1.2-1.5 kW; The quality requirements for the material are the same as for end mills. To process edges, the shaped cutter can be threaded into either a horizontal or vertical spindle; for working on layers only in a vertical position.

Roller-cone cutters (burrs, item 6) can also be used to select shaped grooves and create a groove on both a horizontal and vertical machine, but in general they are a special tool for copy milling machines. The requirements for the quality of the material are high, as for end mills, but the drive power in the copier can be from 250-300 W.

And finally, round holes are cut out using a circular cutter (item 7) in a vertical milling or drilling machine large diameter in almost any material that is not excessively thick (including sheet metal). Required drive power per hole D200 in 60 mm thick oak board approx. 2-2.5 kW.

...and his presentation

Milling can be done in two ways: up and down, see fig. below. As for wood, ordinary straight-layered wood (especially one that is not of very high quality air-dried) is milled only along the way, otherwise the milling cutter can even split and/or fray the workpiece. But in this case, with an excessive feed rate, there is a considerable probability of the workpiece being pulled away by the cutter and damage to the processing profile. Removing dust, sawdust and shavings from the working area (and this is a serious problem) on a vertical milling machine during down milling is difficult, because the dust collector (see below) has to be placed in the field of view in front of the cutter and it obscures work area.

Note: On a horizontal milling machine there are no problems with removing processing waste during down milling, because dust (sawdust) then flies down, and the dust collector socket can be placed directly on the machine plate (see item 2 in the figure at the beginning and below).

Up milling gives better precision and cleanliness of processing, but only on sufficiently high-quality and homogeneous materials. From wood - on solid, fine-grained wood, chamber dried. Removing processing waste on a vertical milling machine is easier, but on a horizontal one it is difficult - dust and sawdust fly upward. The removal of the workpiece is almost impossible, but there is a danger of it being bitten by the cutter. A well-behaved profile can often be modified; a bitten and broken piece is an unconditional defect.

Motor

Based on the above, it is optimal to make a do-it-yourself milling machine with a drive with a power of 1.5-2 kW. The reason is that motors up to this power are produced, incl. asynchronous with capacitor starting for voltage 220 V 50 Hz. They can be plugged into a regular household outlet, and switching the direction of rotation is a child's task for an amateur electrician; rotation speed is 700-2850 rpm, which is suitable for milling. It is also possible to use an electric motor of the same type from washing machine; in this case, it becomes possible to switch the rotation speed (in asynchronous washing machine motors there are different windings for this). A 2 kW motor will provide a processing depth of up to 80-100 mm; if a larger one is required, you will have to install a three-phase motor at 380 V 50 Hz from 3 kW into the machine, see for example. video clip:

Video: homemade vertical milling machine for wood

Note: commutator electric motors 1.5-2 kW 220 V 50/60 Hz (for example from another washing machine or vacuum cleaner) for drive milling machine are of little use - due to their excessively soft external characteristics, the cutter can get stuck in the wood, tear and shaggy if the workpiece is not ideally manually fed (if it is damp).

Which is the best wood router?

Now we know enough to choose a horizontal or vertical axis of rotation of the machine spindle. Comparative performance characteristics of horizontal and vertical wood milling machines are summarized in the table:

Horizontal or vertical?

From the data in table. It follows that it makes sense to make a horizontal wood router yourself if you are faced with the need for mass, simple processing of lumber from low-quality raw materials. Not necessarily for sale; perhaps for cladding wood siding or the clapboard of your house. The savings will be such that it’s time to buy a branded router, but a normal developer doesn’t have extra money. Or, let’s say, still for sale, if you are an individual entrepreneur with a sawmill and a circular saw. Compare market prices for unedged and tongue-and-groove boards, calculate the profitability - is it worth the gamble?

The parts for the most complex module of a horizontal wood router - the spindle unit - will be made by any skilled turner in a similar way to the same unit circular saw; Structurally, they are the same (see drawings in Fig; sleeve bearings are highlighted in red).

The cabinet, dust collector and base plate are the same as for the vertical machine (see below). The plate is even simpler - there is no need for a cutout to mount a vibration-damping motor. The intrinsic vibrations of a horizontal router are an order of magnitude less than those of a vertical router. Transmission from the motor to the spindle further reduces them, and pulleys or sprockets for it can be found in your own trash or at the iron market. An existing circular saw can also be converted into a quite decent horizontal milling machine for wood, see for example. video:

Video: milling machine from a circular saw / jointer

Making it vertical

The vertical wood milling machine has many great functionality and provides best quality material processing than horizontal. It is vertical milling machines that are mostly built by home-made amateurs. However, the problem of combating vibrations in a vertical milling machine is much more acute. If in a horizontal router vibrations through the base of the spindle unit are given priority. down and are effectively damped, being reflected in the thickness of the material, then in a vertical machine, elastic waves in the machine plate propagate mainly to the sides. In this case, their inerference is possible and the emergence of standing waves with antinodes (foci) of such a size that the workpiece is thrown away from the cutter. Therefore, one of the main tasks of designing a homemade vertical router is to suppress machine vibrations.

Structural diagram

Vertical milling machines with a bottom drive of a free (fixed only from below) cutter are least susceptible to vibration. The working body is mounted directly on the motor shaft. The entire drive is made as vibration-resistant as possible. Under the influence of the beating of the cutter on irregularities in the workpiece, the drive staggers and sways. At the same time, a noticeable transverse (vertical) component appears in the waves of elasticity, effectively absorbed by the frame, and a heavy motor with a massive, rapidly rotating rotor plays the role of an inertial absorber of mechanical vibrations.

The structure of industrial and homemade vertical wood milling machines is shown in the figure:

Their main difference is in the folding (lifting) stop 7. Since amateur designs do not use drives of 5 kW or more with high-performance cutters, the folding stop is replaced by a lifting one, which prevents the workpiece from being squeezed upward from the cutter. Also, for an amateur machine, an adapter attachment with a Morse taper on the motor shaft is machined to order, the same as for a homemade drilling machine. A standard clamping chuck for a cylindrical shank is installed on the cone. In this design, it is also possible to use mounted cutters: adapters for them with a cylindrical shank are commercially available or are included in the set of cutters. The most important structural components of such a machine are:

1. The base plate is the main damper of longitudinal (horizontal) elastic waves in the machine;
2. Vibration damping drive board;
3. Comb stops (stop) – dampen vertical vibrations of the workpiece;
4. Static side stop - ensures correct feeding of the workpiece, and in a homemade machine also some adjustment of the cutter output (horizontal processing depth);
5. Dust collector – removes processing waste to the dust collector.

The latter is absolutely necessary when milling, because The cutter produces several times more wood dust, sawdust and shavings than is produced during sawing. The base plate is most often made integral with the vibration damping suspension of the drive. The cabinet (bed) can be anything, as long as the slab and other parts do not fall down.

Drive plate and suspension

The window (opening) for hanging the drive from the machine plate is most often cut out square (see figure on the right), this is easier at home. But the machine will tremble much less during operation if the window for the drive is made round. In any case, the motor should not directly touch the plate (again, see the figure on the right), otherwise, instead of dampening vibrations, they will be amplified.

The best materials for the plate and drive board are fiber-laminated plastics: textolite, fiberglass with a thickness of 12-15 mm; the thicker the better. Hardboard and other massive plastics are less suitable: they dampen vibrations well, but over time they warp when heated by the motor and the machine loses accuracy. Getinax and other thermosetting laminates are unsuitable: they delaminate very quickly due to vibrations.

However, it is neither possible nor practical to make the entire slab as one piece: it is difficult, expensive, and the vibrations of the drive itself will be freely transmitted to the slab. You only need to make the motor board from plastic, and the slab from plywood impregnated with a vibration-absorbing composition and glued together, and low-grade construction and packaging material will do. The slab must be re-glued with at least 5 sheets so that the fibers of the outer layers of adjacent layers are oriented mutually perpendicular.

The cutting diagram for a standard sheet of plywood 1550x1550x4 mm into sheets for the base plate of a wood milling machine is given on the left in Fig. Sheets for the horizontal router plate are cut out without windows for the motor, but with a dust collector socket (see above and below). Slab size up to 750x500 mm. A 50 mm flash along the contour of the sheet is needed to cut off low-quality material at the edges.

The sheet is first generously impregnated 2-3 times on each side with eco-construction soil (water-polymer emulsion), it perfectly dampens vibrations. The interval between impregnations is at least 3.5 hours. Then the sheet is cut out and a plastic film is spread on the floor (not PVC, it will stick!). Sheet No. 1 is placed on film and with a brush (preferably “shaggy” paint roller) apply a thin, even layer of mounting (reinforced) PVA on it; the same layer is placed on the adjacent side of sheet No. 2. Immediately after applying the glue, the brush (roller and its tray) are thrown into a bucket of water, and after all gluing is completed, they are washed in water.

Before folding, the sheets are kept for 15-20 minutes (or according to the instructions on the glue package), folded and straightened, without being separated, so that the edges of the drive window meet exactly. Then sheets No. 3, 4 and 5 are glued in the same way. The entire package is covered with film and loaded over the entire area with a dispersed load of 30-40 kg (it is best to pile on more books or magazine files). Dry for at least 3 days at room temperature: mounting PVA is durable, it adhesive layer viscous and absorbs vibrations well, but takes a long time to dry to full strength.

The design of the motor suspension is shown in the section on the right in Fig. A gap of 0.5-1 mm should be left between the motor board and the machine plate. There is no need to clean sawdust out of it: it will serve as an additional side vibration-damping cushion. It is advisable to find a motor with mounting feet that protrude beyond the dimensions of the housing: then it will be possible to install (not quickly) the extension of the cutter upwards. To set the cutter in height, the motor mounting screws are taken long, and the stem itself is set by putting steel washers on them, between the rubber suspension cushion and the motor body, alternately with gaskets made from the same tube-type truck tire.

The slab with the hanger is checked for workmanship with a pencil. If you place it sticking out 5 cm from the edge of the suspension board, then with the engine turned on Idling the pencil should not fall.

Stop and dust collector

For a drawing of a simple but good static side stop with a dust collector socket, see the following. rice. The material is re-glued plywood from the same sheet. Holes for the comb and lifting stops are drilled in 3-5 pieces: the first 50 mm from the edges of the cutout for the cutter (rectangular); the rest after 25-30 mm. The position of the stops is selected depending on the size of the workpiece and the quality of its material. The lateral offset of the cutter is adjusted within small limits by turning the stop and securing it with a clamp.

Dust collector

Since there is no industrial pneumatic system with air extraction at home, milling dust has to be sucked out with a household vacuum cleaner. If you connect it directly to the dust collector pipe, the required expensive household appliance will soon fail. An expensive, well-cleaning vacuum cleaner with a hydraulic separator will most likely immediately. So to homemade router for wood, in addition to a dust collector, you also need a dust collector, through which the vacuum cleaner is connected.

The design of a dust collector for a milling machine is shown in Fig. on right. The container is round, from 10-15 l (preferably from 20 l). The ideal option is a household bucket with a tight lid, fitted with a seal and equipped with snap-on latches (both can be done with your own hands).

Inlet pipe – diameter approx. 20 mm (inside). Its end is beveled 45 degrees and rotated 20-30 degrees outward; installed 15-20 mm from the side of the vessel (counting from the outer edge of the pipe). The exhaust pipe is wider, approx. 30 mm inside; is installed exactly along the vertical axis of the container. Its selected end is narrowed to 15-20 mm (the taper is not critical). Everything works together like a cyclone, and the air entering the vacuum cleaner is clean enough not to spoil the device.

Note: An additional advantage of the dust collector is that the dust from it is an excellent filler for high-quality wood putty. For this, the dust is mixed with PVA (3-4):1 by volume.

Comb

A drawing of the comb stop of a wood milling machine is given in the following. rice. Material – hard elastic fine-grained wood (oak, beech, walnut) without defects – strands, rot, cross-layers, knots – 20 mm thick. A pair of combs is needed, right and left, so that the workpiece can be fed from either side.

The first comb tooth along the workpiece (pay attention!) is shortened by 3 mm. It does not directly contact the workpiece, but serves as a rebound spring for the entire comb. Without it, the comb may get caught in the workpiece and break.

Fastening the combs to the side stop - with a bolt with a wing nut through a longitudinal groove (slotted hole in the figure); fixing the non-working one with a self-tapping screw to the same stop through hole D7. The comb is placed in the working position so that it touches the workpiece with all teeth except the first, and is fixed with a thumb.

Making a copy router

Copying wood by milling a workpiece is a very delicate matter. The principle of 2- and 3-coordinate (2D and 3D) copying is the same: the copier probe traces the contour of a flat sample (template) or moves along the surface of a volumetric one. The cutter of the milling head accurately repeats the movements of the probe, removing excess wood from the workpiece. You need to move the probe carefully and slowly, sensitively feeling the resistance of the material: the workpiece is not made of thin air. It is better to start mastering wood copying with 2D. It is already possible to make good money in this way: flat decorative parts with molding made on a vertical router are in good demand, and are made quite quickly. But for both 2D and 3D copying you will need a special milling head.

Head

Copy milling heads are available for sale separately, but are expensive. You can replace the branded head with a drill without an impact mechanism: “slotting” drills are unsuitable for copying due to the design features of the spindle assembly. To begin with, any drill or screwdriver will do, but it is better to purchase a tool with increased precision. Such a drill is more expensive than a regular one, but much cheaper than a milling head, and is not inferior in quality of work. You can recognize a precision drill simply by its appearance: on the neck of its body there is a metal collar for installation in the frame of a drilling machine for a drill.

2D

For 2D copying on wood, machines with a pantograph, tabletop and mounted, are used. It’s easier to make a desktop pantograph machine with your own hands, but copying accuracy better than 1 mm will be difficult to achieve. On a machine with a mounted pantograph, you can literally draw and leave autographs on the workpiece.

The structure of 2D copy-milling machines for wood is shown in Fig: on the left is a tabletop one; on the right with a mounted pantograph. The latter is essentially an engraving machine. The probe here and there is needle-shaped with a radius of curvature of the end of approx. 0.5 mm (in engraving up to 0.1 mm or less). Conical roller cutter; By installing it at different offsets in the head cartridge, the width and depth of the selected groove are adjusted.

Do you need scale?

Drawing and drafting pantographs are made scalable (see figure). Copying on wood is usually done on a scale of 1:1. The fact is that due to the resistance of the material, the error in copying on wood increases greatly due to play in the hinges; a professional engraving machine is a complex, precision, expensive unit. But if the copying pantograph is set to a 1:1 scale, an interesting phenomenon is observed: the beats in the hinges seem to compensate each other, and the overall error due to backlash increases slightly.

3D

3-axis milling and copying machines (duplicarvers) are quite actively selling on the tool market despite high prices. Using a duplicate carver, you can make copies of it based on a three-dimensional sample (not necessarily wooden; for example, stucco), which, in the opinion of the average consumer, are not inferior to the original in artistic merit.

The device of a factory duplicate carver is shown on the left in Fig. Its copier (mill + probe) has 4 degrees of freedom: swings up and down, back and forth, rotates vertical plane move left and right. It would be possible to do without the “extra” degree of freedom compared to the number of geometric dimensions of the copied figure if the movements of the copier along all three axes were rectilinear (as in CNC machines), but this is technically difficult and expensive. The same degrees of freedom can be implemented in a different kinematic scheme, used in most homemade duplicatecarvers(in the center in the figure).

Experienced copiers work with a cylindrical probe and a cutter. In this case, the template is outlined with the very edge of the probe (the annular edge of its lower end); turns out to be working and accordingly. cutter edge. The sample and the workpiece are fixed in exactly the same position on exactly the same supports. During operation, they have to be laid on their sides and turned upside down, each time fixing the stands in a precisely defined position relative to each other. In this way it is indeed possible to accurately copy the complexity figure as on the left in Fig.

It is better for novice copiers to learn the craft on less complex samples, using a spherical probe and a cutter, on the right in Fig. The dipstick needs to be sharpened to order. Micron precision is not required; Instead of a sphere, a drop may hang at the end of the probe. But the tip of the probe needs to be sanded at home with fine sandpaper and polished with felt or leather with alcohol and GOI paste. The diameter of the cutter is taken equal to the diameter of the probe tip, otherwise the contours on the left and right (top and bottom) will not converge. The handle of the probe is also better turned from pear-shaped wood; using a probe from a screwdriver with a ribbed plastic handle, the “recoil” of the workpiece material is felt much worse.

Errors in design

There are three main mistakes in the designs of homemade duplicate carvers. The first is insufficient balancing of the mechanism. The copier within the working area should move easily and freeze in the position in which it was left. The second is a copier on a rod instead of a U-shaped frame, pos. And in Fig. The torsional rigidity of the rod is an order of magnitude less than that of the frame; resp. The copying error also increases. The third is a “hanging” horizontal copier rod, pos. B; here the insufficient bending rigidity of the rod free at one end is reflected.

2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible using a milling machine. This tool can be fully used in a special installation. This is what a milling table is. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table provides greater possibilities for processing parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often necessary, which guides the workpiece under the right angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table, and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. Read more about self-production You can read this design.

Required tools and materials

1. Carpenter's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. The easiest way to create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

• Now you need to make supporting structure table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - internal panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the place where the cutter is attached and widen them on the back side of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

• Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching an adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

• To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text outlines the step-by-step technology for creating a tool: analysis design features the device and all components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions, which will help you create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have different purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Purchase professional tool- an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, this router is used in small furniture workshops.

Routers are usually used to process wood along straight or curved contours. The working element in the design is the knife head, which carries out rotational movements. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many types of routers, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

• standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
• single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
• copy milling cutters with a top-mounted spindle;
• copying structures with a horizontal spindle (the tool is designed for processing wooden propellers).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine design: single-spindle designs

The design of the single-spindle machine includes horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed for fixing guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are slides that move along guides. They have a spindle mounted on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element there is another spindle - a plug-in one. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The slide with spindle can be raised if necessary. For this purpose, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. A belt drive allows the spindle to move. Moreover, a counter drive, a motor or a motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some nuances. In some cases, it is impossible to do without additional spindle reinforcement. This need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or if the part is subject to serious loads. To do this, you need to install and secure the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is advisable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of DIY woodworking jobs. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow for higher quality processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by processing wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. A device with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a homemade wood copying machine with an upper spindle placement

These devices are used to perform copying work. This does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.

The copier can replace three tools at once:

1. Fraser.
2. Drilling machine.
3. Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. Spindle develops a large number of revolutions, due to which the treated surface is very clean.

A homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

• calibration of bosses;
• production of openwork frames;
• working out the walls of the ribs, etc.

The basis for this design is a frame made of cast iron. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed serves as a connecting link on which all the elements of a homemade wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on guides. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is secured. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move vertically along the guides using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands; a drawing of such a design involves vertical movement of the table also during operation by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or electric motor removed from another tool. This process is not that complicated, so every master can handle it. To do this, you will need an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and available materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, making a lathe will require some skill.

To build the machine, the following elements are required:

• metal frame;
• electric motor;
• handyman;
• tailstock.

It wouldn’t hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate the dimensions and correctly manufacture all the structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the electric motor shaft. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it; a steel center with a thread is also suitable. Installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. To make the bed you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. To the bed using bolted connection the motor is attached.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must coincide with the middle of the electric motor shaft.

On next stage manufacturing homemade machine The headstock is assembled with your own hands. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe intended for the spindle is attached to it. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. First, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is designated. After this, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top post, which connects to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to secure the tube by welding.

To make a tool rest, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. This element must also have a hole that will be used to secure the support ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the tool rest rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor on which the faceplate is attached will be used as the headstock spindle. You need to make several holes in it. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are intended for fixing the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for choosing designs and a review of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

• countertops;
• beds;
• spindle;
• parallel stop;
• feed skid;
• vacuum cleaner.

Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with lower performance will not be able to process hardwood workpieces.

Selection of materials for making a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the frame to withstand high dynamic loads, it is advisable to use metal as the material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular cross-section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a structure without using welding machine. All elements are connected using bolts. The design is collapsible, which makes it easier to carry and transport. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of a milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

The following materials are suitable for making countertops:

• multilayer plywood sheets;
• planed board;
• MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The tabletop must have a smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to eliminate all factors that could cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands, a flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

• finishing with plastic;
• careful fitting and sanding of planed boards;
• metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Disadvantages include high noise levels. Brushed motor more affordable, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make accessories for a router with your own hands

Homemade wood cutters can effectively process wood, but upon contact with hard materials, the cutting elements quickly become dull. Therefore, the range of applications of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical workpiece and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After this, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. You need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter from the cut part of the workpiece and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the treated area of ​​the cutter rectangular shape. To do this you need to cut off its lower part. The thickness of the resulting working area should be 2-5 mm.

Helpful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made using .

1. It is advisable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10°. A sharper edge will cut much worse and will quickly lose its edge.
2. By using grinder corner type equipped with metal discs, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the required configuration. Diamond-coated needle files are also suitable for these purposes.
3. If the cutter has complex configuration, you can flatten it or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made according to the same principle as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without its drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal cross-section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if the need arises.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the workpieces being processed is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, a special cartridge can be made, although in this case some restrictions cannot be avoided.

The back center, which will be used to secure long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tools are very similar. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

DIY table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several designs that can be used to mount a desktop CNC router. Tables can be stationary or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the table surface for using a router.

Most often, masters give preference stationary structures having a metal frame. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must take into account the height of the person who will work at it.

List necessary tools and materials includes:

• metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
• aluminum guides;
• axes for fixing the router;
• putty, as well as priming and painting compounds;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
• hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
• Finnish laminated plywood with moisture-resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
• material for making a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
• drill and set of drills;
• screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
• welding machine;
• auxiliary devices (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of a milling table with your own hands; video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the Internet, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

CNC router is different from regular tool the presence of a program that controls its operation. In many videos, homemade machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular cross-section, which is mounted on guides. A CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints; fixation is best done using bolts.

The fact is that welds are vulnerable to vibration, which is why over time the frame will be subject to gradual destruction. As a result of changing geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and processing quality. It is desirable that the table design includes the ability to move the tool vertically. A screw drive is suitable for these purposes. The rotational movement will be transmitted using a timing belt.

The vertical axis is the most important design element. To make it, you can use an aluminum plate. In this case, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, a vertical axis can be cast from aluminum according to the dimensions specified in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper-type electric motors. They are installed for vertical axis directly to the body. One motor will control the horizontal movements of the milling head, the other will control the vertical movements. Then you need to move on to installing the remaining components of the structure.

Rotational motion will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before connecting software control to a finished router, you must check its functionality and, if there are any shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble a machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, be sure to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. To create a homemade machine, the electric motors present in a dot matrix printer are ideal. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to the motors, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer only has a couple of motors, but to create a router you will need three. Therefore, you will need several old printing devices. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. Thanks to this, the functionality of the tool increases.

Other engine parameters are also important:

• degree of rotation per step;
• winding resistance;
• voltage level.

To assemble the drive you will need a stud and a nut. The size of these parts is selected taking into account the drawing. To secure the motor shaft and pin, you can use a thick rubber winding from electric cable. A nylon bushing is suitable as a retainer and a screw should be inserted into it. As auxiliary tool You can use a drill and file.

The tool will be controlled software. Required element machine - LPT port, providing connection of the control system to the milling cutter via electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the work performed. technological operations. Therefore, the selection of parts should be approached carefully. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual milling cutter and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem like an impossible task for many. Moreover homemade designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-produced tool can offer.

Helpful advice! If you intend to use a router to perform complex woodworking, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are precisely calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-produced CNC milling machines:

Machine name	Table length, mm	price, rub.
LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A)	900	228970
WoodTec MH-6090		246780
LTT-P6090		329120
RJ 1212	1300	317000
WoodTec MH-1212		347350
RUIJIE RJ 1200		399200
WoodTec MH 1325	2500	496350
WoodTec MH-1625		540115
WoodTec VH-1625		669275
RJ 2040	3000	1056750
WoodTec VH-2030		1020935
WoodTec VH-2040		1136000

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from older equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instructions

One of the main assistants of a carpenter is a wood router. This hand tool is indispensable when wooden blank necessary:

• cut a groove;
• make a groove;
• make a tenon connection;
• process edges, etc.

However, when performing some carpentry work, it is not always convenient to use this tool due to the fact that you need to simultaneously hold the workpiece and operate the router. Therefore, many craftsmen resort to tricks by making a milling table for a hand router. With a table that is a reliable addition to milling tool, as a result, you can obtain wooden elements in quality and accuracy that are in no way inferior to joinery products made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.

A homemade table for a manual router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and facilitates the work of processing wooden products. It is not difficult to make such equipment, and, in addition, unlike a standard milling table produced by various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, design and options chosen directly by the craftsman who makes it.

To perform any engineering work, and equipment manufacturing is one of these, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to indicate your vision of the project indicating the actual dimensions. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for the manufacture of the future structure, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.

Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a manual router

Materials for making a milling table

To build a milling table you will need:

• 4 square bars;
• chipboard and plywood scraps, the dimensions of which are determined when constructing the table drawing;
• hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, hinges, etc.);
• jack;
• metallic profile;
• six-millimeter steel plate;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-support (guide from the saw);
• manual frezer.

Drawing of a homemade milling table (option 1)

In any case, before you start making any such table, the drawing must be completed indicating all dimensions and determining the location of the working elements relative to each other.

Step by step assembly

Let us consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.

1st step. To make a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard cuttings, from which we twist the legs and further strengthen the rigidity with the help of horizontal connecting panels made of plywood. In the right side part we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to the hand router.

2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it liftable together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional support base from 15 mm plywood.

3rd step. To move the workpiece smoothly along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving carriage-stop is used. We cut a groove in the tabletop for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile into it. You can use a guide from an old saw as a stop carriage.

4th step. We also make the longitudinal stop from chipboard and make it movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and fasten the stop to the tabletop with clamps. We cut a small groove in the middle to suck out chips and other milling waste.

5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and shavings formed during the milling process. We fasten the box behind the perpendicular stop.

6th step. We take a six-millimeter steel plate and screw it to the tabletop flush with the surface. During the fastening process, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the tabletop, otherwise the parts being processed will cling to them. A manual router will be attached to the plate from below.

7th step. We attach the router by the aluminum base to the bottom of the plate using bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the base. Fastening hand tools to the removable plate, and not directly to the table, provides savings in milling depth and allows you to easily replace the cutter.

8th step. We are building a router lift. To do this, we use a car jack, which allows us to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.

9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead screw in aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.

Design and video of a homemade milling table for a manual router

Before you start making a milling table, you need to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions on how to make a simple router table. For other details of the first assembly option, see the video below.

We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the milling table is ready with your own hands!

We offer several more models of wood milling machines made by yourself for your taste.

Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features

We offer a table design for a router with a detailed analysis of its components.

Materials and tools.

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame);
• aluminum guide;
• axles for attaching the router;
• putty, primer and paint for metal;
• self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
• Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs. ;
• Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material);
• boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for metal frame table);
• drill and drill bits;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• spatula, brushes, rags.

Basic drawings

Design features of the milling table

An existing workbench can be adapted for a milling machine. But it is more expedient, to eliminate the influence of strong vibration during operation of the cutter, to make separate design, ensuring the stability of the table.

The main loads during equipment operation are transferred to the base. Therefore, the frame must be reliable and stable. The bed is understood as a fixed base on which the router is located. It takes all the loads and is a structure in the form of a table with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, angle, channel, wood, chipboard.

It is necessary to take into account that the router itself is attached to the tabletop from below, which means that there needs to be empty space there.

The router is attached to the table through a high-strength and rigid plate to perform installation work. It is preferable to make it from metal, textolite or tongue and groove board.

The base of the router has threaded mounting holes for mounting. If there are no threaded holes, threading is done independently. If the task is impossible, secure the milling device using special clamps.

Start the work by using a milling cutter to select the shape and thickness of the mounting plate. To make it easier, straight corners on the mounting plate must be rounded with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is positioned flush with the tabletop.

Make a hole in the center of the plate for the tool to exit, drill holes for attaching the plate to the table. The next step is to drill holes to attach the milling device; keep in mind that the fasteners must be countersunk.

How to make a work surface and base

Making the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For ease of work, the table cover should protrude 100-200 mm from the front part. When designing the frame of the bed, pay special attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is decisive for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements, it should be 850-900 mm, depending on the person’s height. For convenient operation of the future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the height of the table; if the floor is uneven, it will help to align the tabletop.

It will be useful as a working surface for a future machine kitchen countertop Soviet times. Most often it is made of 36 mm chipboard sheet covered with plastic. The wood-based material will reduce the vibrations that occur during the milling process, and the plastic coating will ensure excellent movement along the surface of the workpiece. If you don’t have an old countertop, use MDF or laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop; the dimensions and type of future design depend on this. This may be an aggregate machine located on the side of the circular saw, desktop version, or maybe a free-standing stationary machine.

If the use of a milling machine is not regular, reduced to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.

You can make a milling machine yourself. It is a design that fits on a standard table. For work you will need chipboard, two boards. Fasten two boards parallel to a sheet of chipboard. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts; it will serve as a guide and as a stop. Use the second one as a limiting stop. Cut a hole in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top using clamps. The compact milling machine is ready.

If you have a lot of free space in your workshop, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version

Option 3. Cheap homemade router table

The sketch is ready. Materials have been purchased. The tool, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its owner. The master is also serious and is not going to grab everything at once. He will sort everything out and do everything step by step.

Stage No. 1.

Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can use the following method for making a frame. Using a grinder, cut the 25×25 profile pipe to size, then weld the blanks intended for the frame on which the working surface will be located. Weld a pipe on one side along which the parallel stop will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.

To fix the table cover, frame the perimeter of the frame with a corner, then it will sit in the recess.

Use the second method of making a frame. It implies additional supports for the working surface. Weld stops for milling equipment in the middle of the table. The size between them should correspond to a convenient mounting of the router.

For structural stability, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.

Stage No. 2.

Paint the resulting structure. Why prepare the surfaces: clean the metal pipes and degrease them with a solvent, then prime them. If there is a need to putty surfaces, apply a special putty mixture and apply primer. After completely dry paint with PF-115 enamel.

Stage No. 3.

Cut the work surface according internal size frame, install it tightly in the corners. Then drill holes in the upper frame for fastening the table cover. Mark the tabletop itself, drill and securely connect it to the frame using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850×600×900.

Stage No. 4.

Step back 200-250 mm from the edge and cut a T-shaped guide along the length of the working surface.

Stage No. 5.

Trim half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axis, which in turn will expand the range of capabilities of the tool.

Stage No. 6.

Remove the sole from the milling equipment, mark holes in the middle of the working surface of the table for its fastening and drill them. Drill a hole in the middle of the table cover for the device. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the router axes.

Stage No. 7.

On the underside of the tabletop, make a hole for the base of the router.

On both sides of the hole drilled through the hole, make grooves for installing the router axes. The size of the groove and the axis must match.

Along the edges of the grooves, use a Faustner drill (picture above) to drill holes for the hexagon adjustment bolts.

Stage No. 8.

Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large groove and drill holes in the center for the permanent bolts. They will serve as clamps for the axes of the milling device. Screw the nuts onto the bolts.

Stage No. 9.

Install hexagon bolts and nuts on both sides of the axles to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.

Stage No. 10.

Now make a rip fence. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe that was previously welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the length of the table and the width of the guide pipe and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.

On strip No. 1, make a semicircular hole to remove wood waste. It should coincide with the slot in the working surface of the table. In strip #2, cut a square hole in the same location.

Cut strip No. 3 of plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the strip with square hole bolts or using guides. The plywood halves should move in opposite directions. Install an aluminum guide along the upper edge of this strip.

Stage No. 11.

Fasten plates No. 1 and No. 2 together with the sides with half holes. Fasten two stiffening ribs along the edge of the resulting hole and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.

Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.

Stage No. 12.

Secure the rip fence with clamps. This is done to make it easier to move the stop. If it is intended only for a milling machine, then secure it with brackets with grooves for movement.

Stage No. 13.

Weld a bolt to a 6 mm thick metal strip. Make the clamps from wood with two grooves for two bolts.

Stage No. 14.

Install the milling equipment: insert the cut axes into the side holes of the device, put nuts on them and secure the device with pipe clamps.

Stage No. 15.

Turn the table over and use the hex key to lift up the router.

To make it easier to lift the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.

Option 4. Milling machine based on a desk

A milling machine based on a desk is considered economical and convenient option solutions. The list of photo drawings contains a table with specifications of parts by size and recommended material.

Part sizes and materials

Hand milling machines, thanks affordable price, are popular among home woodworkers. However, working on a simple workbench according to the principle: fixed workpiece, moving tool, is inconvenient and dangerous.

The industry produces tables for carpentry work, on which you can install a plane, circular saw, or router.

The device is reliable and convenient, but its cost is comparable to a power tool. Therefore, many craftsmen make such workbenches with their own hands. Since the presence of a tool makes it possible to make a table for a router with high quality, such homemade products look and function no worse than factory ones.

The general design principle is as follows: a smooth tabletop is made from hard material(so that it doesn’t wear out so quickly), on which the router base plate is attached. The instrument itself is placed upside down. A guide for the workpiece being processed is fixed on the working surface.

Bench-type workbench

The simplest design that does not require any free space. It can be stored at home in disassembled form, and installed on any table if necessary to get the job done. The advantage is compactness. Disadvantages: low stability, and limitations on the size of the processed parts.

This is a full-fledged workbench without legs. Dimensions allow processing of any workpieces with high precision. At the same time, it is convenient to store the table in a vertical position. However, an installation site is required to make it operational. On regular table The device cannot be installed - the router suspended from below will interfere. Usually the workbench is temporarily placed on extendable table, or remove the tabletop and install the panel on a frame with legs.

To save space, another option is suitable: the workbench is mounted on one side on the wall, with folding supports underneath it.

Separate table for router

The design can combine several functions: a workbench, a chest of drawers for storing tools and materials, and the milling table itself.

The advantages are obvious: versatility, stability, safety. There is only one drawback: a permanently allocated space is required. Therefore, this option is only suitable for a workshop; you cannot place a workbench on a loggia.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

For example, consider a full-fledged workbench with a chest of drawers for placing equipment. Of course, before starting work, you need to sketch out a drawing (according to the dimensions of your hand router) and make a list of materials:

• Boards or wooden blocks for making a frame.
• Chipboard sheets or solid wood panels for side panels and drawers.
• Hardboard sheet (fibreboard), or thin plywood for partitions.
• Two sheets of plywood 18-25 mm thick, or a finished kitchen countertop.
• Screws, bolts, confirmat, steel angles for assembly.
• Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, angle.
• PVA glue.

Woodworking tool: Circular Saw, drill, plane, keys, screwdrivers.

Cooking load-bearing structure beds. Before tightening the screws, coat all connections with glue.

We assemble the frame on a flat surface. We check the geometry: everything should be parallel and perpendicular.

We install partitions (they will act as stiffeners) and assemble the box for the router. The box is needed to prevent shavings and sawdust from being scattered around the room. In the future, the socket of a construction vacuum cleaner can be adapted to it to remove debris.

We install the main element - the working plane. It can be made from two sheets of plywood by gluing them together. To prevent vibrations, the thickness of the table should be at least 5 cm.

You can use a ready-made kitchen surface (available in furniture stores). The main thing that upper layer was strong and smooth.

A steel plate is installed on the tabletop, flush with the surface, to secure the router base plate. Also, it is advisable to embed profiles into the table to fix the guides.

It is advisable to fill all free niches with boxes in which equipment and devices for fixing workpieces will be stored. Some boxes are replaced with stands for cutters: holes are drilled in the thick bottom of the board according to the diameter of the shanks, and the cutters will not touch each other.

To ensure safety, it is advisable to install a safety cover in the working area, as on industrial models.

A cutter sticking out of a table is a serious danger. If your hand slips from the workpiece, you may get injured. Another way to ensure safe work is a foot pedal switch. A simple circuit is assembled: a socket is installed between the power cord of the electric router and the common network cable, which is turned off with a pedal. Approaching the workbench, you press the pedal and the motor turns on. After finishing the work, or in an emergency, the foot is removed from the pedal and the milling machine stops.

The finished table looks aesthetically pleasing and allows you to properly organize your work area, even in limited space.

Lift for hand router

In normal operation, the operator of a manual milling machine lowers the shaft with the cutter using the tool handles. We are talking about using the device without a machine. When the router is suspended upside down from the tabletop, the router is in what is called parking mode. A mechanism is required to lift the machine into the working position.

If there are several options:

• Fixing screw rod. Using a threaded rod, the required penetration depth of the cutter is set. If necessary, it can be changed.

• Lever mechanism. Allows you to more quickly change the height of the tool, even during operation. Expands the capabilities of the machine: in a sense, the router becomes three-dimensional.

• Helical trapezoid. Many craftsmen use a regular car jack as a lift. You raise the cutter strictly to the required height. It is convenient, and the position fixation is quite accurate.

The considered option includes all the nuances of manufacturing a table for a router. You can use the method 100%, or adopt only the necessary technologies.