Carrot along with potatoes And onions is one of the main vegetables, so all gardeners find a place for it in their plot.

I will tell you about the method that allowed me to do this in a small area: 2.4 sq. m. get carrot harvest, which will last until next season.

The decisive factor in this method is the presence warm high bed, which guarantees optimal conditions for carrot growth. Namely, it is deep, loose, fertile layer.

Without such a bed, it is almost impossible to achieve such a layer on our loamy soils.

The second main condition for obtaining a good harvest is the choice of seeds and their correct landing. I suggest purchasing seeds from trusted manufacturers and better coated ones (that is, covered with a nutritious coating). Such seeds allow us to follow the exact pattern, maintaining the required distances, which in turn makes it possible for the most unpleasant technological method- this is thinning out the sprouted carrots.

Any thinning means injury to neighboring plants and attracts pests to the garden bed, especially carrot flies.

So, we have decided on the seeds, and I sow them in the following way: I pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust onto the prepared, leveled bed, make grooves in them along the bed with a depth to the ground and a distance of 20 cm from each other, and 10 cm from the edge of the bed.

Then I’m not lazy and painstakingly lay them out in grooves, one seed at a time every 3-4 cm. After laying them out, I sprinkle them with sawdust and once again pour them with warm water, but this time from a watering can with a sprayer.

All the main labor-intensive work has been completed, we are waiting for the shoots, which usually appear in 5-10 days depending on the temperature. During this time, sawdust does not allow weeds to germinate, so carrot shoots are easily visible. But 5-6 days after germination, you will still have to weed the bed, although this is said loudly, but it would be more correct to say to remove the weeds that rarely break through.

Over the summer, in the same way, I weeded my garden bed twice, until the tops of the carrots themselves closed. Sawdust also made it possible to reduce the volume of irrigation per unit area and prevent rain from clogging or eroding the soil.

As you understand, loosening with this approach is completely eliminated.

Of course, there can be no talk about any fertilizers, for example, such as nitrophoska and even Agricola Vegeta and Effecton-O, related to organic fertilizers. After all, the bed itself presupposes the presence required quantities nutrients for the entire period of carrot growth.

You can verify this by watching the video.

Anyone can grow long and even root crops on their own plot. The main thing in this matter is not to be lazy and do all the necessary agricultural work as needed. So, let's begin.

The first thing to do is find a suitable place for planting and prepare the soil. The quality of carrots directly depends on the type of land. Therefore, for this, on the one hand, unpretentious vegetable, it is necessary to choose light in mechanical composition, fertile places where there is good drainage. In addition, the place where the garden bed will be located must be level, as open as possible and well lit. It is also worth considering at this stage that best predecessors for carrots are onions, cabbage, early potatoes, especially if they brought in organic fertilizers. But the beds where celery plants (celery, cumin, dill, fennel) had previously grown, and carrots themselves, are better not to be used in this case, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to grow good harvest. How to grow carrots if the plot is small and it is difficult to rotate the land? Everything is quite simple: since the situation is almost hopeless, the only thing left is severe ashing of the soil: scatter 0.2-0.3 kg of wood ash on one square meter soil and dig up. The operation is performed twice a year.

As for the soil preparation itself, this must be done in the fall so that the soil has time to settle before sowing. First, the place where the vegetable will grow is cleared of stones, after which it is carefully dug up, digging a bayonet or even two deep, and a high bed is formed. If necessary, fertilizing - humus - must be added to poor soils; in heavy soils - peat, sawdust And river sand; acidic soils are alkalized with chalk (lime). And here fresh manure In any case, it is not recommended to apply, otherwise the root crops may grow ugly. Growing carrots in soils with high level groundwater without a significant increase in the height of the ridge will lead to an ugly harvest.

In the spring, when the bed warms up, 7-10 days before planting, it is necessary to loosen the soil well and disinfect it with a solution copper sulfate, which is prepared at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water. Then water the bed with warm water, approximately 30 - 40⁰С, after which the planting site is covered with film, preferably dark. The last steps will allow the earth to warm up and retain moisture. Of course, the last steps are not necessary if the spring was hot and there were considerable snowdrifts in the winter. You can also ignore the film if the harvest is expected to be late. And finally, you can refuse warming up if you are confident in the quality of the seeds, and also that there will definitely not be cold temperatures or, even more so, frosts.

Sowing an orange root crop depends solely on how much moisture there is in the ground, as well as on the climatic conditions in which it will be grown: if we are talking about the central zone of Russia or a climate similar to it, then the sowing period will be 20-25 April. Carrots are planted a little earlier (7-14 days) if the snow has already melted more than 21 days ago and relatively warm weather has established itself without night frosts. Carrots should be planted a little later if the weather is not stable and at night they are observed negative values thermometer column. But you should not delay the planting period - it would be optimal to plant before the fifth of May, provided there is a complete absence of snow and frequent absence of frosts. In the southern regions, carrots are planted in two stages - March 10-20 (for summer consumption) and June 10-15 (seed planting and for winter consumption).

Seeds should be processed warm water(rinse two or three times) and then cover with a damp cloth for swelling and passage of moisture to the seed through the crust containing a large amount of hydrophobic essential oils. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability of seedlings being delayed for a period of 2-3 weeks, which impairs the ripening of the root crop. You can also carry out the following procedures to speed up germination:

• Bubbling. Carrot seeds are placed in a vessel with water, the temperature of which is higher than room temperature (optimally - 25 degrees C). The water is aerated with an air pump for 24 hours, after which planting material is removed and placed in the refrigerator on the middle shelf, where it is stored for about 3-5 days. 12 hours before sowing, they are removed from the refrigerator and dried until they flow, after which they are planted in the beds. Germination in this case will take 5-7 days.
• Burying into the soil. Dry planting material is placed in a linen bag and buried in a bed at the depth of a spade bayonet. No watering or fertilization is carried out. After about 1.5-2 weeks, the bag is removed, its contents are dried on dry cloth or parchment and planted in a garden bed. Germination will take approximately 4-5 days.
  
  
• Nutrient solution. The seed is laid out on a fabric base, covered with a cloth on top, and poured nutrient solution for 24 hours. The nutrient medium can be a mixture boric acid, nitrophoska and water (ratio of 1/3 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon and 1 liter of water, respectively); or potassium permanganate, dissolved in a liter of water until red, 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer. After soaking, the seed is washed in warm water and goes into the refrigerator for half a week. After removal from the refrigerator, they are dried until they flow and planted in the ground.
  
  

Carrots are planted along grooves made in the bed. It is optimal to do this as follows: the width of the furrow is the size of a matchbox, the depth is half of it, the interval is 200-240mm. The outer furrows are located 120mm from the edges of the bed. The width of the furrow should not exceed 900mm (accordingly, the ridge should be 1.1m). Before planting, the bed is spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are scattered like a snake in the furrow in increments of 10-15mm, after which they are mulched with soil, peat or a peat-sand mixture. The planted ridge is covered with a film with a ventilation gap of 120-150 mm. The shelter will not only improve the retention of heat and moisture, but will also prevent the appearance of carrot flies, a pest that can destroy the crop.

Planting care

Growing a good harvest requires mandatory care, but caring for the planted root crop is quite simple: just thin out the bed in time, loosen the soil as necessary, weed, feed and, of course, water.

Step 1 Thinning is carried out as the tops grow.

To thin out carrots, it is necessary to pull out the smallest (and therefore least viable) shoots at the first shoots, maintaining an interval of 20-25mm between root crops. The second thinning is carried out in June-July, maintaining an interval of 75-100mm. The second thinning allows the extracted root crops to be used for food or livestock feed. You may have to unload the carrots a third time if the fruits obviously interfere with each other.

Step 2 It is important not to forget to feed the carrots

In the period from the appearance of the fifth-sixth leaves + 2-3 days, mineral fertilizers are applied. After feeding, you can carry out the first hilling, which is repeated after the first thinning, after the second thinning and then once every 2-4 weeks. Hilling helps to cover the fruit in the ground, avoiding sunburn and greening of the shoulders. Also, when growing, you can follow the three-phase method: 5,7,10 leaves. But it is worth keeping in mind that in any case the fruits should be underground at a depth of about 50mm.

Step 3 Watering carrots

Watering carrots should be intense enough to prevent the soil from drying out, but not excessively to prevent it from overcooling. The best thing is uniform watering, since with a lack of water, the root crops become coarse and “woody”; with too much water, they become small and tasteless. It is best to adhere to the following watering tactics:

Harvest and storage

The harvest takes place in late September - early October. The root crop is pulled out of the ground by the tops, after which it is placed on the ground nearby for quick removal excess moisture from its surface. If loosening and weeding were not done regularly during the growing period and the soil has hardened, digging can be done with a garden staple. But this must be done in such a way as not to damage the fruit.

If the harvest is carried out in rainy weather, then the collected carrots are laid out in a dry room. The total drying time is about 1-1.5 hours (i.e. until the surface visibly dries).

After drying, it is necessary to trim the tops. It is most convenient to do this with a knife or garden pruning shears if the tops are powerful and thick. Greens are cut at the root, without damaging the root crop. At the same time, the crop is sorted: all damaged, rotten, crooked fruits are discarded. Smooth, undamaged carrots are placed in a ventilated box and stored in a cool, dark place.

How to Grow Root Vegetables

For successful cultivation Root vegetables must follow some rules. Before sowing, the soil must be cleared of weeds and well dug to a depth of at least a spade bayonet (30-35 cm); it must be finely lumpy, without hard stones.

For root crops, soil with a pH reaction of 5.5 to 6.5 is suitable, that is, slightly acidic or neutral reaction. You cannot deoxidize the soil immediately before sowing; this should be done in the fall. Root crops require loose, moisture- and breathable soil. Light loams rich in organic matter are best suited for them. These cultures don't like large quantity mineral fertilizers.

At the first stage of cultivation, they need moist soil, but during the period of root growth, soil moisture should be very moderate. Usually, in order to force the plant to enter the fruiting stage more quickly, they create stressful situation: cut off or cut off some of the roots to reduce the flow of nutrients from the soil, reduce watering rates, stop fertilizing. These methods are not suitable for root vegetables and cabbage; they need to be well fed for almost most of the season, since what we grow is just a pantry for next year's harvest - seeds, and it must be well filled. The better the root crop or head of cabbage this year, the more High Quality we'll get the seeds at next year. The seeds, not the roots or heads, are the harvest of these crops. But we are not interested in seeds, but in root crops - the very storehouses that plants create for their future offspring.

The main pest of root crops is the vegetable fly. It’s easy to protect your plantings from it: cover them with spunbond or lutrasil or agrotex during the fly’s flight. The first time all vegetable mosses fly is during cherry blossoms. The second time - in July early August. At the same time as the vegetable flies, a noticeable white butterfly flies. As soon as it appears, immediately cover your plantings.

Characteristics of carrots

This is one of the most beloved and common root vegetables. Carrots belong to the celery family. It has been known to mankind for more than two thousand years. Modern varieties Carrots come from the Mediterranean. There are several varieties of carrots, differing in shape, size, color, and sugar content.

Carrots love sand, loose soil rich in organic matter, but not too greasy, prefer a lighted place, but also tolerate slight shading. Grows better on neutral soil, but can also grow on slightly acidic soils. Carrots do not like soil that is dense or compacted after rains and watering, because it root system needs a lot of oxygen, especially in the early stage. In dense soil, the root crop becomes smaller. The carrot root crop is very sensitive to the uniformity of soil structure. Even if the central stem encounters a pebble during growth, the root crop will bend or bifurcate. If the soil layers are heterogeneous in structure, the root crop has constrictions.

Doesn't like carrots acidic soils, large amounts of mineral fertilizers. Her root crop becomes woody and tasteless. You cannot add fresh organic matter under carrots, much less fresh or poorly rotted manure - the root crop will rot directly in the soil or during storage. In addition, with excessive doses of nitrogen in any form, carrot roots branch. You should not apply fertilizers containing chlorine (potassium chloride or potassium salt) to carrots - their roots will also branch or bend. You cannot apply lime under carrots in the year of planting - the carrots will become five-tailed or seven-tailed. Even if you add ash directly when sowing seeds, some of the root crops will become multi-tailed. When deoxidizing the soil for carrots, it is better to use dolomite flour or chalk, which should be added in the fall.

Sowing, fertilizing, watering

Carrots are a cold-resistant plant; at all stages of development, they easily tolerate frosts down to minus 5-6 degrees, so it is better to sow them as early as possible. For North West optimal time sowing - end of April. In regions with a continental climate, it can be sown before winter. In places where there are frequent thaws in winter, it is better to sow it in March, having prepared the beds for sowing in the fall. Carrots can be sown already at a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius or even lower. However, the best temperature for germination is 13 degrees, despite the fact that carrot seeds, like all cold-resistant crops, hatch at 4 and germinate at 6 degrees.

Early sowing of carrots allows you to avoid the attack of the umbrella psyllid. However, you can also do late sowings (in early June for the North-West), which also allows you to get rid of the psyllid. But if at this time the temperature exceeds 22 degrees, then the development of carrots will become slow, and the root crop will form rough. It is better to sow carrots on ridges 15-20 cm high. In the fall, the soil should not only be dug up to a depth of at least 20 cm (or even better, 30-40), choosing pebbles from it, but even sifted. It’s even better to make a bed for carrots from a mixture of peat (or sawdust, pine needles) and sifted sand. For each bucket of peat, take half a bucket of sand and add a liter jar of ash. On such soil, carrots will grow well for 3-4 years in a row. Firstly, it does not contain weed seeds, and secondly, it is saturated with air. You will only need an annual additional application of chlorine-free potassium for the spring pre-sowing soil dressing (half a glass per linear meter).

You can sow carrots in Y-shaped furrows 20 cm deep, made directly in the soil (without beds). The furrows are made at a distance of 20 cm from each other and filled with the same mixture of peat and sand, as indicated above. In these furrows, grooves are made with a depth of only 1 cm and carrot seeds are sown in them. Then the soil is leveled. When sowing carrots before winter or in March, the seeds are planted in the soil a little deeper, 2 cm. Sow the carrots in moist soil. I sow carrot seeds together with the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer: for 1 teaspoon of seeds I take 1 teaspoon of fertilizer and half a glass of fine sand (or dust from drunk coffee or tea bags). I stir and sow as if I were salting a prepared furrow with this mixture. I level the soil and compact it with a board. With this sowing, the carrots do not thicken and all summer there is no need to do any fertilizing, except for a single watering of the weeds with infusion during the first time after germination. Shoots appear after 7-20 days. Before the seedlings appear, the bed should not be watered, and so that the hatched seeds do not dry out in top layer soil in dry or windy weather, the beds should be covered with film after sowing, which must be removed as soon as the seedlings appear.

Slows down the emergence of carrot shoots essential oils contained in its seeds. There is a recommendation to speed up the germination of carrots - pre-soaking the seeds before sowing in running water for a day to wash away essential oils. This technique improves the rather poor germination of carrots and speeds up the emergence of seedlings, but there is another side to this technique. Firstly, weak plants also appear, while essential oils will not allow them to appear. Secondly, potassium is washed out of the seeds, which ultimately has a bad effect on the quality of root crops. It is much better to use another technique: warm the carrot seeds in a cloth bag under running water for half an hour hot water. In the early stage, carrots are easily drowned out by weeds and do not tolerate deep loosening and weeding, since their thin, delicate sucking roots are easily damaged, and the future root crop is bent.

If you have not previously cleared the beds of weeds, they will sprout before the carrots, and weeding will be difficult, since the rows of carrots are not yet visible. In order to designate rows of carrots, when sowing, you should add to its seeds some seeds of another crop that quickly enter, for example, lettuce or radishes. Their shoots will mark the furrows of the carrots, and weeds can be removed between the rows without fear of damaging the carrots. It is better not to pull out weeds, but to cut them down to the soil level. Loosen the row spacing very carefully, without getting too close to the rows of carrots.

If carrot shoots are immediately covered with lutrasil or other non-woven material and water the beds directly with lutrasil, then no pests of your carrots are scary. Remove the shelter just before harvesting, when the second flight of the carrot fly ends. A small amount of carrots can be grown very early by sowing them near the film (or near the glass) in a greenhouse in one row. It will not be a hindrance for greenhouse plants, since they are planted 20-25 cm from the film or glass. There is enough light for carrots even under the canopy of greenhouse plants.

Carrots only need watering during the first stage of growth, before the second thinning. In the future, it should not be watered even in dry weather. The fact is that the central root of carrots can go deep into the soil, up to 2 m. If there is excess moisture, it forms a hairy root, or the root begins to crack. Such carrots cannot be stored; they must be immediately processed for winter harvesting. Cracking of the root crop can also be caused by the introduction of excessive doses of nitrogen into the soil. Often gardeners heartily water carrots with weed infusion, and then are amazed why the root crops cracked?

Carrots should be harvested after the first frost, because they must go through a stage of natural cooling. If you are forced to harvest carrots before frost, be sure to leave them in the refrigerator for a day, otherwise aboveground part will continue to grow, but the root crop will wither. Is it possible to leave carrots to overwinter directly in the garden? If winters in your region are not frosty, then you can. But if there are winter very coldy or frequent thaws, the carrots will not overwinter in the garden bed.

Video: How to grow productive carrots in high beds

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19.03.2015 | 8758

When growing carrots, it is important to create a bed suitable specifically for this crop.

Nice garden bed– this is already a success. On the right bed It is easier to care for plants: water, weed, fertilize and harvest. A well-chosen bed will promote the development of the plant.

Flat bed

Carrots are usually grown on a flat bed. But such plantings are inconvenient to water and feed. In addition, pulling out a ripe carrot from such a bed can be problematic - only the tops remain in your hands, and the root crop continues to hold tightly to the ground.

Stitching

Another way to grow is planting in one line along the crest of the row. I think this method is better than a regular flat bed. Carrots planted on ridges are easier to thin out; you can walk freely along the grooves, which makes care much easier. But such beds also have a lot of disadvantages. While the crops are very young, problems arise with watering; water simply rolls off the rounded ridge. Watering from below along a ditch is only suitable for mature plants. In addition, young carrots are inconvenient to feed and loosen.

High bed

Having tried different growing techniques, I settled on planting in two lines on high bed. To do this, I cut rows with a wide flat ridge. I place two rows of crops along the ridge.

Step by step the whole work looks like this:

• I use a marker or pegs with a rope to mark future beds on the site. It should be taken into account that the width of the ridge will be 30-35 cm. I make the grooves between the rows convenient for walking and watering, usually also 30-35 cm wide.
• I dig the rows with a shovel. It is important that the ground is slightly damp at this moment. Dry soil forms hard clumps, which are unacceptable when growing carrots. If lumps do form, be sure to break them up with a shovel.
• I use a rake to level the soil well to finally get rid of the lumps. At the same time, I form ridges about 20 cm high with a flat top 30-35 cm wide. I level the soil on the ridges especially carefully.
• Using the corner of a hoe, I cut two shallow parallel grooves along the ridge. The distance between the grooves is 10-15 cm.
• I sow carrots in the grooves, sprinkle them with soil and be sure to mulch them with sand or small sawdust.

It is very convenient to care for such a bed. I water the crops and young seedlings with a watering can or through a sprayer attached to a hose. Water retains well on the flat surface of the bed and does not roll off anywhere. When the time comes for fertilizing, I make a narrow groove between the rows of seedlings and add fertilizers into it.
Over time, the carrots grow, the root crops go deeper into the bed. From this moment I begin watering between the rows, because the water will flow directly to the growing root crop. For fertilizing, I make grooves not between the lines of carrots, but on both sides at the base of the bed.

Raised beds warmed up well by the sun. Plants in warm soil grow faster and develop better. If the weather is cold and rainy, raised beds will save carrots from stagnation of water and, as a result, from fungal diseases and rotting.

Harvesting from such beds is a pleasure. If the root crop does not want to be pulled out, there is always the possibility of shaking it slightly - small area the beds will be destroyed, but the carrots will be removed safe and sound.

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Carrots are the most popular vegetable among consumers. It can be purchased on store shelves all year round. But the root vegetable will bring great benefits if you grow it yourself on summer cottage. This can be done subject to certain rules for growing carrots.

Almost any crop needs to be fertilized before planting in the spring, and this can be done in the spring after planting at the dacha, or it can be fertilized later directly into the hole. We will tell you in the article how to properly care for carrots, how much and what kind of fertilizer to apply, little tricks for applying manure and humus, how to water frequently and how to love the plant.

Before sowing seeds in open ground The gardener must decide why he grows carrots and when he wants to get the harvest. Sowing time:

1. Early spring sowing from April 15 to May 15. Throughout June you can already collect bunches of carrots, and with the arrival of August you can enjoy the sweet root vegetables.
2. Summer sowing from May 15 to June 10. The harvest will take place at the end of September; these carrots are stored in the cellar for winter storage.
3. Pre-winter sowing from October 20 to November 15 allows you to consume young root crops before harvesting the main harvest. The main thing is to choose right place for beds - it should be located on a hill so that the spring melting of snow does not drown the seeds.

If you sow at all possible times, then fresh vegetables will be on the table all year round.

At winter sowing The formation of root crops occurs at a time when the carrot fly is just beginning its life activity. It is not yet capable of harming the harvest in the garden; the vegetables will be of better quality.

Choosing a place for a garden bed

It's no secret that carrots are an unpretentious root vegetable, but to get a rich harvest you still need to create comfortable conditions. When choosing a location for garden beds, the gardener should consider:

• this vegetable crop grows well in illuminated areas;
• fertile loamy-sandy soil with 4% humus and neutral acidity 6-7 pH;
• Previously, potatoes, tomatoes, corn and legumes were grown at the planting site;
• do not use for growing beds where they were previously grown spices(dill, parsley, fennel, etc.);
• it is forbidden plant vegetables in the same area 2 years in a row.

Large root vegetables correct form grow up on peat soils , which were formed after the swamps dried out. And on clay soil, carrots will take on an ugly shape due to strong resistance during growth.

Before frost, the area for vegetables must be dig up, remove roots and stones. But do not drive the shovel too deep into the ground and destroy the fertile layer. You should dig to a depth of about 0.3 meters. With the onset of spring, level and deeply loosen the surface.

How to plant seeds to get good seedlings

Gardeners practice a variety of methods for planting carrots, all of which have their own advantages and disadvantages:

1. Sowing seeds considered the most in a fast way. The gardener simply scatters dry seed into the prepared beds. At the same time, seed consumption cannot be called economical, and the seedlings will be too dense and uneven.
2. Dragee- these are seeds placed in a nutritious shell, the shoots are friendly and strong. Their sowing consists of point distribution in small holes. The cost of pelleted seeds is higher, but you won’t have to waste time on thinning.
3. Previously sprouted seeds give quick shoots. But in the absence of rain, you will have to water ahead of time; the sprouts are too weak and cannot cope with the pressure of the earth.
4. Roll method implies sticking small seeds onto long strips of paper. To plant, you just need to spread the strips in the garden bed, dig it in with soil, water it well and fertilize it. Shoots will appear evenly, but a little later.
5. Liquid paste cook from potato starch, cool to room temperature and mix with mineral fertilizers. Add seeds to the resulting liquid and stir quickly. Pour the paste evenly into the grooves. With this method there is no need to thin out the plantings.

Regardless of the chosen planting method, it is better to sow seeds less often, so as not to have to thin out in the future.

You can have a garden bed cover with film for 2-3 weeks before the first shoots appear. Thus, weeds will not interfere with plant growth, and a crust will not form on the soil, preventing moisture from penetrating to the roots.

If dry planting material is selected for sowing, additional preparation is required. You can disinfect it by soaking the seeds in water heated to 40 degrees. But it's better to hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate– 1 g of substance per 100 ml of liquid. The procedure time should not exceed 20 minutes, after which the seeds must be rinsed well clean water and dry.

Some gardeners use specialized plant growth stimulants already at the seed preparation stage. But to obtain an environmentally friendly harvest, this is not recommended.

Secrets of caring for carrots after planting

Carrots belong to difficult to germinate and slow growing vegetable crops. Don’t think that once you sow it, you can forget about the beds until harvest.

In order for the root crops to be strong and large and consistent with the varietal quality, they should be looked after.

Fertilizers, fertilizing and folk remedies

A gardener will reap an average harvest in terms of quality and quantity if he limits himself to applying fertilizer during the autumn digging of the plot.

The plant needs feeding throughout the growing season.

So, first time feed the vegetable a month after entry. At 10 l. water dissolve 1 tbsp. l. nitrofoski – classic mineral fertilizer, containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The same solution is also used in the second feeding after 2 weeks and on the third- at the beginning of August.

The best potassium fertilizer is this folk remedy How tincture of ash. To prepare it, you need to pour 150 g of dry ash in parts into a bucket of water. Stir the mixture until the ash is completely dissolved. At 10 l. dilute 1 liter of water. tincture and feed and water the root crops of carrots or beets with this liquid during the second half of the growing season.

How to water during the growing period

When growing root vegetables special meaning The irrigation system is playing. Indeed, if the soil moisture is insufficient, the young roots of the plant will die, and overwatering the beds will lead to the fact that only livestock will be able to feed on the harvest.

Therefore, immediately after sowing, the period begins proper watering beds:

1. The method used to stimulate the inputs is sprinkling(300-400 m3/ha), and then several receptions drip irrigation(20-30 m3/ha).
2. After the entrances appear, depending on weather conditions, watering is carried out every 2-3 days small volume of water.
3. During the period of root crop formation, the soil moisture regime changes - the frequency decreases, the volume of water increases.
4. Active growth of vegetables is accompanied by infrequent watering (once every 7-10 days), but moisture should penetrate into the ground to a depth of 10-15 cm.
5. One month before harvest, watering do not carry out even in the absence of rain. Excess moisture during this period will worsen the taste and keeping quality of vegetables.

Before digging up root crops, it is advisable to moisten the soil a little. Thus, the process is facilitated, and the crop improves its ability to be stored fresh.

Proper weeding

One of the least favorite things gardeners do is weeding their beds. But you can’t do without this tedious task, otherwise you can lose your entire harvest due to the “attack” of weeds.

At the initial stage, when the plants have not yet sprouted, an area with crops is recommended cover with several layers of newspapers and cover with film on top. With this method, the soil warms up well and retains moisture, but weeds cannot actively grow. After 2 weeks, the innovative shelter should be removed and wait for the emergence of seedlings.

After 10-15 days the plant appears first real leaf- this is a signal to start weeding. The procedure must be done very carefully so as not to capture the cultivated shoots along with the weeds.

When the 2nd leaf forms, weed combined with thinning, if sowing was carried out chaotically and the plantings were thickened. There should be a distance of 2-3 cm between plants. It is important to pull the sprouts up and not to the side, otherwise the root of the neighboring vegetable will be damaged.

The most convenient way to thin out is with the help of a female eyebrow plucking device - tweezers. It captures even the thinnest shoots without harming the rest of the plant.

During the entire growth period between the beds and plants, it is necessary to weed and loosen the soil. A month after the first thinning, repeat the procedure so that there is a distance of 4-5 cm between the root crops, but the already pulled vegetables can be eaten.

Growing carrots takes a lot of effort and time, but the harvest is rich and high-quality. healthy vegetable will cover all the inconveniences. The main thing is to follow the basic rules of planting and caring for plants. And then a tasty and crispy vegetable will be in the daily diet of the whole family, it will give all its nutrients and microelements.