Cabinet for built-in oven. How to build in an oven with your own hands, drawings and calculations Furniture for the oven and hob

Built-in ovens are very convenient and functional. The cabinet for the built-in oven allows you to play with any kitchen area, even very small. The option when the oven is placed directly under the hob does not suit everyone. As for independent models, they can be placed in any place convenient for you and at an ergonomically optimal height. We will consider all the features of installing such furniture and equipment in this article.

Module classification

There are 2 types of oven modules:

An oven that is located directly under the hob.
An oven located in a pencil case.

The drawer can be located at the top or bottom oven. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Cabinet under the hob

If the cabinet is located under the hob, then:

The cooking area is compactly combined. This option is especially relevant to save space in the kitchen.
Another positive point is that this is a universal option, suitable for women of any height.

Insufficient ergonomics. You have to work in a bent position. Cooking and cleaning the oven will certainly involve the fact that you will constantly have to “bow.” If a woman has back problems, she is unlikely to often spoil her family with baked dishes.
There is a cooling vent at the bottom or top of the structure. If the drawer is under the hob, the system is more likely to become blocked.

Design in a pencil case

The most ergonomic and comfortable option- when the oven is at chest level:

The housewife does not have to bend over; she enjoys preparing delicious and healthy dishes.
Cleaning the oven is also not associated with great inconvenience.

The only drawback of this placement of the oven is that it is inconvenient for short women. However, this minus is not critical. The problem can be easily eliminated if you make an oven cabinet with your own hands or order it from a specialized company based on an individual project.

Important! Please note that installing the oven in a pencil case and strengthening the load-bearing horizon on which it is located go side by side. To do this, just screw 2 additional strips down from the horizon. This makes it possible to avoid collapse of the structure.

Product dimensions:

In the West, equipment with a width of 900-1200 mm is considered standard. This corresponds to the idea of comfort in the US and Europe.
In domestic kitchen sets, the width of the cabinet suitable for built-in is 600 mm. Therefore, you need to choose the appropriate technology.

Important! These requirements, for example, are best met by products from IKEA. Choose an oven so that it is smaller in width than the bedside table.

There are also very tiny models with a width of 450 and a height of 600 mm. But this is not mass production, rather a trial version.

Important! For most super-compact models, with a width of 450 mm, the height remains 850 mm, that is, standard. The depth of most products is 500-550 mm.

How to make a bedside table yourself?

To get started, stock up on materials and minimum required tools:

Chipboard or plywood with a sheet thickness of 1.6-1.8 cm.
Tabletop (you can use the same materials, but with a sheet thickness of 2.8 mm or more).
Legs.
Fasteners - dowels, confirmations and self-tapping screws.
Guides.
Screwdriver.
Drill.
Carpenter's glue.

Important! The instructions for the equipment contain information not only on the dimensions, but also on the requirements for the installation niche. If you are going to purchase or make a cabinet yourself, be sure to take this into account.

The dimensions of the furniture that serves as an installation niche are the dimensions of the oven plus 1-2 cm of extra size plus the thickness of the material. Essentially it is a box with 3 horizontal slats - one at the top and three at the bottom.

Do everything necessary calculations. Then cut out the following parts from the prepared material:

Side parts (niche height + leg height + tabletop thickness) - 2 pcs.
Horizon - exactly with measurements of depth and width - 2 pcs.
Body strip. Its length corresponds to the width of the niche. The width of the body strip is up to 100 mm.

Important! You can cut MDF and chipboard sheets in a professional workshop. At the same time, rational consumption of material, accuracy and speed of execution are guaranteed. In addition, the workshop also performs edging using waterproof melamine film.

Cabinet for built-in oven: assembly

Collect ready product for dowels or confirmations. If the fastening is on dowels, then it is duplicated with furniture glue. The assembly order is as follows.

Built-in oven – this model is very convenient. Not everyone is happy with the option when the oven is located under the hob: especially when both units need to be turned on at the same time. An independent model can be placed anywhere and at any height.

Product dimensions

Foreign companies started producing ovens. This significantly affected the dimensions of the product.

The standard width of models is 90–120 cm. This corresponds to the European idea of comfort.

However, Russian standards kitchen sets completely different. Here is a cabinet for an oven and hob has a width of 60 cm. In this case, device manufacturers gave in and began to produce models with the appropriate width. For example, the famous manufacturer of household goods Ikea.

In order to ensure ease of installation, the width of the oven should be 1–2 cm smaller.

Today you can also find very miniature built-in models - with a width of 45 cm and a height of 60 cm. However, these are rather trial samples. As a rule, even with a width of 45 cm, the height remains standard - 85 cm.
The depth in most products is 50–55 cm.

A cabinet for a built-in oven is usually equipped with a drawer for storing baking sheets, dishes and other things.

Materials and tools

A DIY oven cabinet is a very real task. There are no special difficulties here. To make it you will need the following:

plywood or chipboard 16–18 mm thick;
tabletop thickness of 28 mm or more;
legs;
furniture confirmations, dowels and screws;
guides;
electric drill;
wood glue.

Kitchen cabinet calculations

As a rule, the instructions for the oven contain data not only on the dimensions of the model itself, but also on the requirements for the installation niche. This should be used in calculations.

The dimensions of the cabinet under the oven are equal to the parameters of the installation niche plus the thickness of the material used. In fact, it is a box with a double bottom - horizons 1 and 2 and a horizontal crossbar at the top - the body strip. The latter is required for normal fastening of the hob to the countertop. In addition, this part maintains the distance between the sidewalls, which is also important.

First you need to make calculations, then from chipboard sheets or MDF cut out the following parts:

sidewalls - the sum of the height of the niche, the thickness of the table top and the height of the legs - 2 pcs;
horizon - that is, the bottom, the dimensions are exactly equal to the parameters of the installation niche - depth and width - 2 pcs;
body strip - its length is equal to the width of the niche, and its own width does not exceed 100 mm.

Back wall drawer, as a rule, is not included in the detailing: it is made from fiberboard scraps. Usually its height does not exceed 100 mm.

The drawer parts are calculated using the residual method. It's easy to do:

the height of the facade is equal to the difference in height kitchen cabinet, height of the legs and thickness of the first horizon. The façade does not block it due to the installation features of the oven. The width corresponds to 60 cm minus 3 mm. As a rule, there is no handle here: to make it more convenient to use, a recess is made on the second horizon;
the side parts are equal in length to the depth of the cabinet minus the gaps, and in height - the distance between the two horizons minus the gaps;
The length of the rear wall takes into account the thickness of both sidewalls and the thickness of the guides.

Chipboard or MDF can be cut to size in a workshop: professional equipment the pattern will take much less time, and accuracy is guaranteed. In addition, in most cases, the parts are edged here - the ends are covered with a melamine strip. Otherwise, you will have to do the operation yourself.

Product assembly

The kitchen cabinet for the oven and hob is assembled using confirmations or dowels. The fastening of the latter is duplicated with glue. The holes for them are drilled in advance.

Self-tapping screws are allowed.

First you need to assemble the box itself - the sides and horizontals.
Then secure the body strip, lowering it 10 mm from the edge of the side panel.
The legs need to be attached to the bottom of the product with self-tapping screws.
If you decide to make a drawer, then before installing the first horizon, guides - hinged or telescopic - are attached to the walls.
Install back wall.
The product is assembled and installed on the guides.

The do-it-yourself oven cabinet is ready. In the photo you can see a product that is in no way inferior even to famous brands, like Ikea.

IN modern kitchens You can increasingly see built-in household appliances. And this is not surprising. Integrated stoves and refrigerators, washing and dishwashers, microwave and UHF ovens allow you to save work surface, more functionally manage internal space cabinets And, of course, they give a more holistic and harmonious look to the overall kitchen design. How to build an oven with your own hands? It's worth starting with correct layout kitchen set.

With a competent approach to developing a kitchen design project, the location of a free-standing stove or the “oven + hob” duo is inextricably linked with the supply of the hood to ventilation shaft. Therefore, even at the stage of starting repairs, you can clearly determine the location of the oven. And, accordingly, provide sockets for its connection.

However, not everything is clear here. The outlet must not be located strictly behind the oven. When the plug is plugged into it, a “dead” zone is formed, which will not allow the oven to move to the required depth.

The option of locating the outlet below the oven level is also not very successful. It is much more convenient to first turn off the equipment, and only then remove it from the kitchen cabinet. And not the other way around - when the need arises to disconnect from the network, start pulling out a rather heavy unit.

The most optimal solution– move the socket below the level of the countertop to a nearby cabinet. It would be ideal if the adjacent cabinet table near the oven would have drawers. Then you don’t have to install the back wall in the cabinet itself at all. It is enough to remove the desired drawer and access to the outlet is open.

It’s also a good idea to screw an overhead socket to the side of a cabinet with hinged doors. She interferes internal filling There will be no cabinet, but it is quite convenient to use.

The main thing is that this cabinet does not turn out to be a table under the sink. Such close proximity to water and sewage drainage is undesirable.

Drawings on how to build an oven with your own hands

This task is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To facilitate installation, household appliances are produced in certain standard dimensions. You can always exchange one built-in oven for another without changing kitchen furniture.

The standards here are simple: any electric or gas oven is built into a 600x600 mm niche. Moreover, the width of the niche is 600 mm, taking into account the thickness of the side walls of the oven module (according to the requirements of most models, the finishing size of the opening must be at least 560 mm).

The depth of the oven is designed to be placed under the countertop standard width 600 mm. That is, the body to the front overhang should be 550-560 mm. It will not be possible to build an oven with your own hands under a narrowed countertop. But for an expanded one, in various design variations, it’s fine.

Nuances may arise in specific non-standard cases. Therefore, carefully read the instructions at the purchasing stage. household appliances. Some ovens require space for ventilation in the box design.

Or even a special cutout for air circulation in the bottom of the cabinet or countertop.

Typical design The cabinet for the oven is shown in the drawing.

If the cabinet table is “clamped” between adjacent modules, then there is no need for an upper tension bar. Many furniture makers do not install it at all.

If the height of the kitchen unit is standard (840-850 mm at different thicknesses countertops), then the height of the side of the oven cabinet itself will be 720 mm. By simple calculations (720-600), we obtain a space of 120 mm at the bottom of the installation. More precisely free space will be (120-32) only 88 mm, minus the thickness of the bottom and shelf.

A drawer with a box 50-60 mm high is usually built into this space. If you increase the height of the bottom row of the kitchen to match your height (you can read about this), then the drawer will be deeper and more functional.

Actually, using the same principle, the cabinet “turns” into a cabinet for a built-in oven. We simply increase the height of the space in the bottom drawer.

But there's one here important nuance. The depth of the sides of a cabinet that has been increased in height must also be increased so that the gap between the wall and the cabinet body is not visible.

This means that the air circulation near the oven built in this way will be disrupted. It’s not for nothing that the instructions for ovens for installation in a pencil case include a separate drawing. In which you can see that you need to leave the drink under air circulation.

Therefore, a cutout should be provided in the countertop covering such a low cabinet for a built-in oven with your own hands. It can be covered ventilation grille.

DIY oven cabinet, drawings and calculations

Let's take as an example the calculation of a cabinet for a built-in oven standard sizes. Its drawing will look like this.

With a tabletop width of 600 mm, taking into account the overhang at the front and rear, the cabinet depth will vary between 460-500 mm.

If you decide to install the tension bar in the center of the module, then it should be lowered by about 10 mm relative to the sidewalls. Otherwise, it will interfere with embedding the hob into the countertop above the oven with your own hands.

If the body of the cabinet is made of 16 mm thick laminated chipboard, then the calculation of the parts will look like this.

№	Part name	length	width	quantity
1	Bottom	600	500	1
2	Shelf	568	500	1
3	Sidewalls	704	500	2
4	Backdrop behind the drawers	88	568	1
5	Side of the drawer	450	60	2
6	Drawer forehead	510	60	2

1	Drawer bottom (fibreboard)	540	448	1
2	Drawer front (chipboard, MDF, solid wood)	116	596	1

Sometimes a drawer in the design of a box for an oven is completely abandoned. It is absolutely not needed as a storage place if the kitchen is large and the housewife has enough drawers and shelves in it. Then a “fake” (rigidly fixed facade) is placed on the opening under the oven.

Currently, the vast majority of kitchen units are designed with, therefore, understanding the design of such modules is very important.

The box we are considering has two unchanged sizes:

This is its width, which is 600mm
And, which is also equal to 600mm (sometimes the opening is designed with a height of 595mm).

Only the size of the lower drawer with the front depends on the total height of the box.

The dimensions of the niche for installing the equipment we are considering can always be found in the instructions for it.

Let's calculate the module details:

Horizon – 600 by 460 (mm) – 1 pc.

Side – 870-28-100-16=726 (mm), where 28mm is the thickness of the tabletop, 100mm is the distance from the box to the floor (height of the supports), 16mm is the thickness of the lower horizon.

Side – 726 by 460 – 2 pcs.
Horizon 2 – 600-32=568 (mm), where 32mm is the thickness of the two sides of the box.
Horizon 2 – 568 by 460 – 1 pc.
Cabinet strip – 568 by 100 – 1 pc.

It’s also worth saying a few words about the body strip.

In this case, it is designed alone, and is located 10mm below the upper edge of the side ().

This is done so that when using a tabletop with a thickness of 28mm, it is normally attached to the tabletop and does not rest against the bar itself (sometimes the dimensions of this equipment may exceed the height dimensions of the tabletop).

By the way, I have often come across training materials online where the casing strip is not designed at all in the box we are considering.

I think this approach is not correct, since this bar maintains the distance between the sides of the module, and it is necessary in any case.

Let's calculate the front for the drawer below

The height dimension that it covers is:

870-28-100-600=142 (mm), where 100mm is height adjustable supports, 600mm – internal opening of the box.

You also need to know that the depth of the oven is such that when the back “overlap” of the countertop onto the box is 100 mm (namely, this (and more) size should be given to kitchens that include similar modules), in the projection of the oven (on the wall ) there should not be anything (sockets, pipes, etc.), since the cabinet may simply not “fit” into the box.

The photo shows an option when there are sockets on the part of the wall visible through the opening, which then had to be removed. Therefore, these problems need to be solved at the kitchen design stage, and not when it is almost installed. You also need to take into account the evenness of the floors. If they are not level, then the lower modules will be adjusted, and accordingly, the position of the projection of the opening of our box on the wall will change.

This all needs to be taken into account.

Such modules can also be designed in such a way that they are located not at the bottom, but at the top, but we’ll talk about that.

That's all.

See you in the next articles.

Body sketch kitchen section, without facades.

In this section, telescopic guides of full extension measuring 550 mm are used as retractable elements.

The red line next to the size number indicates the edge. This means that this end of the part is the front (visible) and it must be lined with a furniture edge. If there are two lines, this means that both ends of the part of the corresponding size are covered with an edge.

In the given detailing of the kitchen section (module), the dimensions are indicated without taking into account the thickness of the edge.

There is no need to take into account the thickness of furniture edges up to 0.6 mm in the size of the part. . The part size will need to be reduced by the appropriate edge thickness if the edge, such as ABS, is going to be 1 or 2mm thick. For example: part width 400 mm, edge thickness 2 mm. It is necessary to paste over both ends of the part. Then the width of the part must be adjusted taking into account the thickness of the edge. Those. it will be 400 - 2 mm. - 2 mm. = 396 mm.

	Name.	Size "X"	Size "U"	PC.
1	Sidewall	704 \| \|	560 \|	2
2	Bottom.	600 \| \|	560	1
3	Connection - shelf under the oven.	568 \| \|	560	1

6	Side of the box.	550 \|	70	2
7	Front and back panels of the drawer.	510 \|	70	2
8	Drawer bottom, fiberboard.	550	541	1