Tenon joints are among the most durable (http://www.woodmastermagazine.ru/assets/files/pdf/2008-3/44_51.pdf).

Therefore, I decided to assemble a jig for making tenon joints using hand router.
The idea was to make a device for quickly and conveniently cutting grooves for Domino insert tenons, because... ready-made solutions too expensive.
It all started with a search suitable idea in the Internet. Next, adapt the idea to your needs and, finally, execute the drawings.
The operating principle is simple (see next photo).

The position of the groove relative to the edge of the workpiece is adjusted using the blue stop. It will be used as a special cabinet.
The width of the groove is determined accordingly by the width of the cutter, the length of the groove is determined by the position of the brown latch.
The black part is a 40 mm wide copy sleeve that fits in the resulting groove.

Next is the search for material. It seemed to me a good idea to make a jig from a 6 mm duralumin sheet. Although, probably, you can make it from any sheet material- plywood, plexiglass, textolite. A search for a suitable duralumin sheet at the local poultry market and at local metal collection sites did not yield any results: “Suitable pieces sometimes slip through, but now they don’t and it’s not known when they will. Call back later.” We managed to find it at metal warehouses required material. They even offered to cut it to size, but the problem is that they would have to take the entire sheet. And this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, what should I do with the remaining 70% of the sheet.
As a result, I found an individual entrepreneur selling D16T duralumin sheets at retail on the Internet. http://dural16.ru/. Maybe someone will find it useful.
You can order a piece of duralumin sheet from them the right size And required thickness. But not everything is smooth here either. If you take not the whole sheet, but a part, then there is a serious markup.
I bought from them a suitable duralumin sheet 800×500 with a thickness of 6 mm for 4130 rubles, i.e. 614.58 rubles per kilogram. Yes, quite a lot.

In parallel with the search for material, the search for a turner-milling machine began. Wore through a couple of all-Russian thematic forums in search of fellow countrymen. As a result, I found a couple of dozen accounts to which I sent personal messages. Of these, eight people responded, to whom I later sent drawings with a question about the cost of the work. The price range for working with my material was significant - from two to eight thousand rubles.

As I said above, such a tenon cutter can be made from any sheet material. For example, from plexiglass, PCB or plywood. In this case, you can get by with a simple hand milling cutter. I decided to make my tenon cutter from duralumin, so I had to turn to specialists. It was for them that precise drawings were made with dimensions that might seem redundant and complex to some (although upon closer examination it becomes clear that this is not the case). These dimensions are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the router's side and for a specific copy sleeve.
Making it from duralumin is not the cheapest solution both in terms of the cost of the material and the cost of work, but it suits me. It’s interesting to watch how a product you imagined and drew in 3D materializes and becomes a real product.

As we see in the next photo, ready product very simple. When assembling it I encountered an unexpected difficulty. The fact is that in the original design the plates are connected with aluminum rivets with a countersunk head.
It turned out that finding such rivets on sale is not a trivial task. They are not only available in ordinary hardware stores, but even in highly specialized hardware stores. I had to connect the plates with regular blind rivets.

The most cunning element of the design is the retractable tongue, which adjusts the length of the groove for the tenon. The whole trick is just the need for adjustment swallowtail. Otherwise, there are no difficulties in its manufacture. To make it shorter, not one, but two holes are made in the main plate into which a fixing bolt is inserted, depending on the required size of the groove.
In this case, the position of the groove on the tongue itself is chosen in such a way that, in any position of the tongue, the sole of the router does not rest against the locking wing nut.

To attach the tenon cutter, I assembled a cabinet from 21 mm plywood, shown in the following photo. In the upper part of the cabinet there are two parallel grooves for fastening the plate with M10 bolts, in the front part there is a hole for fixing the workpieces on the tenoning machine using clamps.

To give the cabinet required rigidity, made an additional crossbar inside.

After assembly we get such a device. Before installation, I first matted the metal surfaces in contact with the router sole and with the workpieces using 120 and 240 sandpaper.

Under the plate I attached a strip of duralumin to the cabinet. This strip expands the possibilities of attaching workpieces to the tenon saw using clamps.

So far I haven’t had the opportunity to give my tenon cutter a real test, but I think it will do the job. I will make the inserted spikes, despite the fact that you can buy them ready-made (http://www.kalpa-vriksa.ru/catalog/vstavnye_shipy_domino_dlya_festool_df500/) myself. Still, the cost of one spike is almost 10 rubles - a little expensive.

Characteristics:
Dimensions - 250x440x112 mm
Weight - about 5 kilograms
Max. cutter diameter - 37 mm
Max. groove length - 154 mm
The thickness of the base under the router is 12 mm

Using this tenon cutter I made

Using a tenon cutter, you can make grooves for insert tenons in the desired place on the workpiece

If it is not possible to secure the workpiece to the tenoning saw, then the movable part of the tenoning saw is removed and attached to the workpiece.

If there is a need to process the ends of long workpieces, the tenon cutter can be placed on its side.

The tenon cutter is quite convenient to use and the result is quite high quality.

P.S. In the comments they wrote to me about another tenon cutter made according to these drawings. The original message can be found below. I’ll just give a summary:
...no need to contact different masters. I made a tenon cutter according to your drawings in one day from an aluminum sheet 4 mm thick. 4 mm is the most best option for making it yourself. I used a hand router, a circular saw, a file and an electric drill. I just attached another aluminum plate to the plywood bed at the bottom. It’s better to fasten the milled part this way, pressing it against the top and bottom plates... Aluminum cuts well circular saw and a manual milling cutter at low speeds. Milled with an 8 mm cutter for metal...

I would like to add that this was a great experience. self-made tenon cutters, thank you for your experience.

Even a small inaccuracy, multiplied by the number of tenons, can ruin the tenon joint, which is considered one of the most capricious to manufacture. The fixture described below provides accurate and fast production tenon connection for boxes. In addition, with the help of one single device you can make spikes different sizes.

The device consists of three main parts - a base, which is attached with clamps to the milling table, a movable slide with a vertical stop, and replaceable pads for making tenons of different sizes. All parts of this device are made of 19 mm thick birch plywood and hardwood. The parts are simply glued together. The length of the base depends on the width milling table. Measure the distance from the right edge to the axis of the cutter. To measure, insert a V-shaped cutter into the scurvy. The sharp tip of the cutter is located exactly on the axis of rotation. Add 70 mm to the resulting size to determine the length of the base (in our case - 356 mm). Then make the device shown in the figure.

To ensure that the slide slides easily along the base, when assembling, provide a small gap by inserting pieces of paper between the base and the slides. If you plan to use the jig to make studs of different sizes, make several interchangeable pads. You will have to install a new pad when changing to a different size. To make a T-slot in the trim, first select it central part using a straight bit and then using a T bit to make the final pass.

The sizes of the eyes and tenons depend on the diameter of the cutter used, but since the adjustable pads can be changed, you have the opportunity to choose a cutter of any size. In order for the joints to look neat, that is, to begin and end with whole tenons and eyes, the width of the parts must be a multiple of the diameter of the cutter. To set up, make two test pieces from the scraps, having the same length and thickness as the walls of the box, but 3 mm wider than the final height of the box.

Even small dimensional deviations add up over the numerous passes that form the joint. Therefore, leave a small margin in width on the workpieces to avoid unpleasant surprises later. You can easily remove the remaining allowance when the joints are ready.

Now install the jig on your router table, set it up, and make a box in 12 easy steps.

Select a cutter according to the thickness of the parts, for example to make 6mm wide tenons in 6mm thick walls. But you can take a cutter with a larger diameter to make larger tenons.

Attach the base of the jig to the router table, aligning the router bit to the center of the cutout. Place the workpiece on the base and set the cutter overhang so that it protrudes slightly from above.

Place a slide with a vertical stop on top of the base and secure the pad, aligning its ends flush with the slides. Move the slide forward to use a router bit to make an eyelet cutout in the trim.

Make a T-shaped bar from the scraps to fix the distance from the edge of the router table to the pad. The rail must be of sufficient height so that its end rests against the overlay.

Cut a square template from hardwood that fits snugly into the cutout of the trim. Saw it in two and put them together to move the trim.

Remove the crossbar and slats, then make a second eyelet cutout in the trim. Trim the pin stop to 51mm length and glue it into the new eyelet flush with the back of the trim.

To check the settings, press the edge of the test piece against the pin stop. Slide the slide forward to make the first eye in the workpiece.

Place the first eye on the pin stop and rout the second eye. Continue the operation until completion, each time placing a new eye on the pin stop.

To form the first cutout at the corner of the adjacent workpiece, insert the second part of the strip between it and the pin stop. After making the first pass, set the strip aside.

Press the corner cutout against the pin stop and make a second pass. Sequentially form all the tenons and eyes of the connection. Saw the sides of the box to the final width, removing any incomplete tenons.

Perform a trial assembly of the connection. It should be easily connected by hand, but not separated under its own weight. Change the settings if necessary.

Proprietary clamps for gluing boxes allow you to compress parts with protruding ends of the tenons, but at the same time distribute the pressure over the entire joint.

To tenon joints boxes turned out flawless, follow these tips:

• Before making joints, position the walls of the box in the way they will be finally glued together and place marks. To avoid confusing their orientation, mark the outside and top of each wall. Remember that connections on opposite walls must be made the same way.
• A cutter with an upward spiral gives a cleaner cut with a minimum of chips. In addition, the cutting forces during operation of such a cutter are directed downward, pressing the workpiece to the table and preventing it from rising.
• When working on wood that is prone to chipping, use double-sided tape to secure any excess scrap to the front edge of the workpiece.
• Always make the spikes a little longer; their protruding ends can be easily removed by grinding or a copying cutter after assembling the box. To prevent chips from occurring on the outer tenons, press a piece of timber or board against them with a clamp.
• If the bottom of a box with straight tenons is to be inserted into the tongues of the walls, dry assemble the box, secure the walls with clamps and remove the tongues from the inside using a slotted cutter with a bearing. Then make roundings on the corners of the bottom in accordance with the radius of the cutter.
• Glue the boxes within 24 hours after making the joints. If parts are left for several days, the tenons may shrink or swell, making assembly difficult or even impossible.
• Gluing four joints with a large number spikes and lugs makes you rush. Save time by applying glue only to the inner edges of the studs.

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Tenoning machine- a type of woodworking machine that is used to make lugs and tenons in production wooden structures. Elements can be processed both for connection at an angle, in which frame and box grooves are made, and for splicing, in which case dovetail or figured grooves are made.

Such a machine is usually equipped with a special automated feed mechanism, providing processing in several technological “passes” without operator intervention, and a device automatic change tool.

A wood tenoning machine is used both in small workshops and in large-scale mass production. They are indispensable in enterprises involved in woodworking, house construction, as well as furniture production and repair.

1 Types of tenoning machines

Variable speed workpiece feed mechanisms allow the use of small diameter tools to achieve high precision. The use of interchangeable tools can ensure the execution of several dozen operations, giving maximum flexibility to all processing settings.

Processes can be controlled personal computer with memory, diagnostics and graphical user interface.

The tenoning machines used are divided into two main types:

• one-sided;
• double sided

Single-sided machines produce tenons on one side of the workpiece in one cycle. These machines operate on the positional principle: the workpiece is fixed on the work table, which makes reciprocating movements relative to the tools (mill and saw) mounted on the spindle.

Double-sided machines produce tenons on both workpieces at once. They work on the positional-pass principle, that is, filing of the end parts is carried out while the workpiece moves relative to the tool, and cutting of tenons and lugs is carried out using a movable milling unit with the workpiece fixedly fixed.

1.1 Characteristics of tenoning machines

The main parameters of the machines are described by their technological capabilities:

• maximum spike length;
• minimum tenon thickness;
• maximum eye depth;
• eye width;
• permissible workpiece size.

In addition, machines are characterized by the number of spindles, saw diameter, cutter dimensions, feed speed and engine power.

2 Well-known manufacturers and popular models

Different models may also differ in additional features, such as:

• software control, including using a computer;
• availability of automatic tool changer;
• design of the workpiece feeding mechanism.

2.1 Makita Corporation, Japan

The Japanese company Makita offers a computer-controlled machine Makita 5500 S, equipped with two motors to drive two pairs of longitudinal and transverse saw blades. Its parameters provide the required cutting cleanliness and speed of work.

The greatest cutting depth in one pass is 90 mm, while a greater depth of tenons (up to 240 mm with a width and height of 130 mm) can be easily achieved in several passes.

The machine can work with workpieces of unlimited length, for which an auxiliary block with adjustable geometric parameters is used. The machine itself is very compact and light: the horizontal dimensions are 560×620 mm with a height of 810, the weight does not exceed 68 kg.

2.2 SCM Group, Italy

Under the group's Celaschi brand, the double-sided machine "Progress" is now produced, suitable not only for processing materials made of wood and its derivatives, such as chipboard, but also gypsum boards, plastic and fiberglass materials.

In addition to the main operation - making tenons using cutters - it can perform cutting, profiling and other operations.

"Progress" can work with parts over 6 meters long and up to 20 centimeters thick with a material feed speed of up to 1 meter per second. It also has an automatic tool changer and CNC system, and can be easily integrated with other equipment from SCM Group.

2.3 MAGR Group of Companies, Ukraine

The product range includes modern specialized milling machine model “SSh-200-160P”, which is designed to perform the operation of cutting transverse tenons. Can be used in conjunction with cross-cutting machines and presses for splicing PSD.

Performs batch processing of parts, which eliminates chipping during cutting. The package is fixed using a pneumatic device, The stud pitch is shifted by changing the height of the work table.

2.4 Savelovsky "SZDO", Russia

JSC "SZDO" offers equipment High Quality, manufactured jointly with the world's leading companies producing wood processing equipment. The ShS-3 tenoning machine is designed for cutting special wedge tenons at the ends of wooden beams.

The machine ensures the execution of a cycle of operations with the displacement of the cutter by one second part of the step, for which a specialized pneumatic system from the Italian company Camozzi.

ShS-3 allows processing parts measuring 20 x 20 centimeters with a thickness of up to 12 centimeters, full cycle cutting a tenon on both sides takes no more than 30 seconds.

2.5 How to cut tenons with your own hands without using a machine?

In this case, you will need a tenoning device. Often, carpenters make homemade tenon cutters, but today you can purchase an industrial model, for example, “CMT” - 300. With its help (if you have an electric router), you can, using various templates, get the box groove you need.

Tenon joints wooden parts- the most reliable. But cutting the groove and tenon accurately is not an easy task. It’s no wonder that there are many devices that make this work easier. 06 our author tells us about one of them, made with his own hands.

I accidentally saw the design of this device on the Internet. One foreign company advertised its device called Kerfmaker.

It is designed to create a precise groove using a circular saw.

Due to its simplicity and excellent results using it, I think this device is simply ingenious. Its high price stopped me from purchasing it, and I decided to make a similar device from scrap materials myself.

How I use the tenon cutter

To make it easier to understand the design of the device, I will first describe how to use it, and only then the manufacturing process. As an example, I’ll try to connect two square bars crosswise. This is very easy to do with this device.

1. The device itself is very similar to a caliper with a depth gauge. It has two sliders that can be moved and fixed. The shorter one is needed to take into account the thickness saw blade. The device will once and for all help you forget that it must be taken into account when making a groove.

2. To measure the thickness of the disk, I clamp it between the end of the device and any vertical plane, pressed tightly against the disk on its other side. Depending on whether you need to add or subtract the thickness of the disk, I either move the slider...

3. ...or I push it. After this, I securely fix the position of the short slider with a nut.

4. The next step is to measure the thickness of the workpiece using a long slider like a caliper, after which I also fix the slider with a nut. The device is ready to make a groove. It had a small step at one end. These two lengths of the device determine the position of the edges of the future groove.

5. For work I use a small saw bed. I install the “bed” and set the height of the disk equal to half the thickness of the workpiece.

6. I proceed directly to making the groove. I install the device with the longer side and fix it with a limiter - a board pressed with a clamp. I'm making my first cut.

7. Without removing the stopper, I turn the device over with the shorter side and again press it against the stop. The workpiece moved exactly the width of the groove, taking into account the thickness of the saw blade. I'm making a second cut. I remove the wood between cuts either with a chisel or with the same saw.

8. I repeat the operation with the second workpiece and get a perfect connection. Of course, the order of cuts can be changed. The tightness of the fit is adjusted by slightly moving the short slider. The device is also suitable when using a rip fence. Thus, it allows you to obtain perfect T-shaped and corner joints.

Manufacturing procedure

Now I’ll tell you how I made this device.

9. The most difficult thing for me was to find suitable knurled nuts, but they were also found in old stock. I used oak dies as material for the sliders. There are many voids in the structure - and the wood must be strong. In addition, it is difficult to leave dents on oak from nuts, which could affect the accuracy and quality of the device.

The thickness of the blanks should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the nuts so that they do not interfere with the device lying on its side, but not too thick, otherwise it will be inconvenient to tighten the nuts.

10. The two main parts of the device are connected using a groove and a tongue. I got a little clever with them and made them in the shape of a “swallow tail”. But here a regular rectangular groove is sufficient. In any case, the width of the groove (and for the dovetail - the most bottleneck) must be larger than the thread diameter of the nut.

12. Parts with cut grooves.

13. To fix the short slider, I used a piece of a stud - I used a regular tap to cut a thread in the hole and screw in the stud.

For the long slider I used a bolt with a short thread. I chose this because this part of the device often moves and the threads would bore the grooves in the wood. Due to the dovetail, the long slider connects to top part using two parts, otherwise the bolt cannot be inserted into the groove. With a rectangular groove, they can be rigidly assembled into one.

Finally, I glued the vertical stop - and the device is ready. The maximum width of the groove that can be made using this device is 100 mm. For me this is quite enough, but a longer base can be made to solve larger problems.

Homemade device for cutting tenon and groove: photo

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You can successfully make and fit this time-tested connection, no matter what tools you have at your disposal. Simply choose one of these proven methods, using a variety of tools, from inexpensive tools you probably have on hand to specialized machines.

Start with the Basics: Basic Rules for Male-Socket Joints

Regardless of how you form your tenons and sockets, these tips will help you achieve perfectly-fitting, strong joints for any project.

• Correct connections always start with careful markings. Use a proven steel ruler and square, and mark the marking lines with a sharp pencil, surface planer or marking knife.
• A simple rule that is easy to remember: when marking a socket on the end or edge, the thickness of the workpiece must be divided into three equal parts. The outer two thirds will become the walls of the nest, and the middle third must be removed. So, in a board 18 mm thick (picture below) A 6 mm wide nest is made in the center of the edge of the workpiece. When using material with a thickness of more than 18 mm, the width of the socket can be more than one third of the thickness of the workpiece, provided that the thickness of the walls of the socket is at least 6 mm - this is due to strength considerations.

Make the nests first

Method No. 1. Simple drilling jig for dowel connections

The first two methods of removing nests involve drilling a series of overlapping holes and removing excess material between them. The holes should be perpendicular to the edge of the board, and jigs for drilling holes for dowels do an excellent job of this task. They are especially convenient when working with material with a thickness of about 18 mm, for which bushings with a common diameter of 6 mm are suitable, just corresponding to the width of the socket. (Most of these tools have bushings for drilling 6, 8, and 10 mm diameter holes, and some have a bushing for 12 mm diameter holes.) If the drill jig did not come with a drill bit, purchase a twist wood drill bit with a center point - this will cut cleaner and not gives chips on the surface.

To limit the depth of the hole, attach a locking ring to the drill or make a “flag” out of masking tape.

Holding the chisel perpendicular to the edge of the board, carefully cut away any rough edges on the sides of the nest. If the chisel is sharp, you won't need a mallet.

To make a nest, attach the jig to the workpiece, positioning it at the edge of the marked nest so that the edge of the hole just touches the marking lines marking the edge and walls of the nest. Drill a hole, having previously set the required drilling depth. Do the same at the other edge of the socket as shown top left. Now rearrange the jig and drill a few more holes between the two outer holes. After this, drill out the material between them, centering the drill on the bridges between them.

After removing most of the excess material, clean and level the sides of the socket with a chisel. Use the widest chisel that the size of the socket will allow. If you prefer rectangular sockets, trim the corners with a chisel that is the same width as the socket.

Method number 2. The same principle, but using a drilling machine

if you have drilling machine, then for greater productivity and accuracy, use it instead of an electric drill and drill jig. You will need a stop (at least in the form of a flat board attached with clamps to the machine table) to position the socket and ensure that it is parallel to the edges of the workpiece. Using a square, check that the table is perpendicular to the drill. Install a pointed twist drill or Forster drill into the machine chuck; the central point of such drills prevents the drill from leaving the intended point. Adjust the drill depth stop to match the depth of the socket.

Just as when using a jig, first drill holes at the ends of the future nest. Then drill a series of holes between them, leaving bridges about 3mm wide. After finishing drilling, trim the walls and corners of the socket with a chisel.

Method number 3. Using a plunge router

This technique involves milling the socket with an increase in depth of 6 mm for each pass. In addition to the plunge router, you will need a sharp cutter (we recommend a helix cutter with an upward spiral), as well as a side stop or special device, holding the cutter within the marking lines. You can control the starting and ending points of the milled nest by eye or attach stop bars to the workpiece that limit the longitudinal stroke of the router.

A homemade or factory-made socket milling jig like the one shown in picture above, will be a versatile addition to any workshop. The top plate made of transparent plexiglass allows you to easily align the centering lines of the fixture with the markings on the workpiece. The length and width of the slot hole of the device should be several more sizes sockets taking into account the difference in diameters of the cutter and the copy sleeve moving in the slot hole. Additional expenses for the purchase of a ready-made device, it is compensated quick installation and flexible to customize the size of the nest. Examples of such devices are the Mortise Pal and Leigh Super FMT. The Mortise Pal has a built-in clamp and comes with six socket routing templates different widths and length (additional templates can be purchased separately). The Leigh Super FMT bench jig (www.leighjigs.com) allows you to rout both socket and tenon in one setup. The kit includes guides and cutters for tenons and sockets of five various sizes. Additional guides are purchased separately.

EDGE OF THE BLANKET. When machining narrow workpieces, such as this stand, use a clamp to hold down an auxiliary piece of wood to stabilize the router. END OF THE BLANKET. A simple device creates a wide and stable support surface for the router when making holes in the ends of workpieces.

Method number 4. Drilling square holes is easy

Of course, from a technical point of view, a slotting machine performs not drilling, but chiselling square holes. A rectangular nest is hollowed out around round hole simultaneously with drilling the latter, for which a special auger drill is used, located inside a hollow cutter-chisel (more gentle photo on the left). This method of sampling nests is the fastest, but also the most expensive. Tabletop slotting machines cover almost all of your nesting needs and cost around S225-500, cost floor models starts from $900. (Keep in mind that some specialty machines do not come with cutters and drills, which cost $10-$30 each, with sets of four starting at $40.)

The drill has deep grooves that quickly remove chips, and the external square cutter-chisel forms clean walls of the socket.

The long arm of a slotting machine creates the force necessary to drive the cutter into the workpiece.

Once you set up your slotting machine, you can select such a socket in less than a minute.

This is how a slotting machine works. First, install a chisel with a drill into the machine. Adjust the depth stop to match the depth of the socket. Align the fence parallel to the cutter so that the latter is exactly between the marking lines. Form the ends of the nest first and then remove the material between them by making overlapping holes. If you like this method, but are not ready to buy specialized machine, consider purchasing a slotting attachment for your drill press. Such devices are relatively inexpensive ($65-125). The attachment is installed on the machine quill (photo below) and works exactly the same as a slotting machine. The disadvantage is that you will not be able to use the machine for normal drilling until you remove the attachment.

In just 20 minutes, you can turn a drilling machine into a slotting machine by installing an attachment on the quill.

Now make the spikes and fit them to the sockets

Plug-in tenons are convenient to use with milled sockets. Saw off the tenons from a long piece that has been machined to the required section.

Depending on the chosen method of selecting sockets and the tools available, you can make spikes at the ends of the parts, or insert (separate) spikes that connect two parts to the sockets.

The use of insert tenons involves selecting sockets in both parts to be joined, into which a sawn tenon suitable for both sockets is inserted (photo on the right). Instead of buying blanks for inset tenons, you can make them yourself from scraps of hardwood (to be safe, process scraps that are at least 305 mm long). Just sharpen the workpiece to a thickness that ensures a tight fit of the tenon in the socket. If the ends of the socket are semicircular, mill the corresponding roundings on the blanks for the tenons. After this, saw off the tenons of the required length from the workpiece.

Method No. 1. A groove disk will help you quickly deal with spikes

The stackable groove disc allows you to cut tenons from high accuracy And minimal costs time. Fine adjustment of the disc thickness is not required as excess material is removed in a few passes. To cut tenons using this method, use two outer discs, between which install three intermediate chipper discs with a thickness of 3.2 mm. To prevent chipping at the exit of the disc from the workpiece, attach a plywood or MDF pad to the transverse (angular) stop of the sawing machine.

After installing the mortise disk in the machine, adjust its extension so that it just touches the tenon marking line on the workpiece. Using a piece of material the same thickness as the workpiece, make one pass on both sides and check the fit of the resulting tenon. Adjust the blade offset and make test passes again. The result should be a tight fit of the spike in the socket.

THE GROOVE DISC SIMULTANEOUSLY FORMS THE SHOULDERS AND CHEEKS OF THE TENON

The grooving disc works quickly and is easy to use, but often leaves characteristic marks in the form of scratches that require additional cleaning.

First, use a groove disc to cut out the front cheeks of the tenon, and then the side ones. The high overlay of the cross stop will provide support for the workpiece when cutting out the side cheeks.

Now install the longitudinal (parallel) stop of the machine so that it limits the length of the tenon. Measure the distance between the stop and the teeth of the outer disk farthest from the stop - this distance determines the line of the shoulders of the tenon. Provided that the rip fence is parallel to the saw blade and the grooves for the cross fence, making a pass will not lead to the blade pinching or the workpiece being thrown back. With these machine settings, cut out both face cheeks of the tenon on all workpieces. After this, without changing the position of the longitudinal stop, form the side cheeks of the tenons, adjusting the offset of the disk accordingly to obtain the desired width of the tenon. Having finished cutting out the tenons, remove roughness from their cheeks using a zenzubel or a sanding block.

Method No. 2. With a tenoning carriage, the tenons will be smoother

A tenon carriage like the one shown in right photo below, costs about the same as a good mortise disc ($100-150), but it provides a cleaner surface on the tenon cheeks. Set the offset of the saw blade to match the width of the hanger. Then, while pushing the workpiece along with the cross fence, form all four shoulders of the tenon as shown in left photo below. If necessary, when cutting out edge (side) shoulders, adjust the offset of the disc. Pre-forming the hangers ensures they are clean and crisp.

First make the cuts that form the shoulders of the tenon. Feed the workpiece using an angular (cross) fence, using the longitudinal fence as a tenon length limiter.

Adjust the tenon carriage so that after sawing out the tenon cheek, the trim falls freely to the side and is not pinched between the disk and the carriage.

To cut cheeks, simply secure the workpiece standing at the end in the carriage, adjust the carriage by aligning the marking line with the edge of the saw blade, adjust the blade overhang and make the cut. Turn the workpiece over and file the opposite cheek of the tenon. A tenon cut in this way will be located exactly in the center (if the tenon must be shifted to one side of the workpiece, it should be cut at two different installations). Tenoning carriages allow you to form tenons not only at right angles, but their back stop can be tilted. If you want to save money, make a tenoning carriage yourself.

Method number 3. Tenons on a band saw - rough and fast

Setting up a bandsaw for cutting tenons is as easy as setting up a regular saw. rip sawing. Pre-form the shoulders of the tenon on circular saw, as described in “Method No. 2”. After this, set the rip fence of the band saw so that the thickness of the tenon being cut is approximately 0.8 mm greater than required, and make the cut (photo below).

While forming the tenon cheeks, feed the board slowly so that saw blade did not bend and did not result in curved spikes. Be careful to stop feeding the workpiece after the cut falls away to avoid accidentally sawing through the tenon shoulders. Sawn on band saw the cheeks will be slightly rough. For better glue adhesion, make them smooth using a sanding block or a sander.

Method number 4. Why saw if you have a milling table?

You can rout smooth, neat tenons on your router table with just one bit and a crosscut and rip fence. First, insert a straight bit of the largest available diameter into the router collet and adjust its offset along the tenon marking lines. Set the router table rip fence so that it limits the length of the tenon. In this case, it must be installed parallel to the groove for the transverse (angular) stop - this ensures that the shoulders of the tenon will be perpendicular to the edges of the workpiece.

The gap between the longitudinal stop pads allows you to remove chips with a vacuum cleaner.

Once you've finished setting up, start routing by first making a pass along the end. Consistently perform one pass after another until the end of the workpiece slides along the longitudinal stop. (If you first form the shoulder of the tenon, there is a risk that during subsequent passes the workpiece may be torn out of your hands.)