If you need to do fine processing of metal or wood, or draw a pattern on stone or glass, then use an engraver. It performs the functions of a drill, grinder, milling machine, but on a very small scale. Therefore, it is also called a mini-drill and drill. Which device to choose for the job, how to maintain electrical equipment and repair it if necessary?

Purpose and types of engravers

The engraver is compact electric tool, which are processed various materials: wood, stone, glass, metal. The device performs not only drawings and inscriptions on the surface. This versatile tool can be used for grinding, milling, engraving, cutting and drilling. Such a difference in the number of operations performed is possible thanks to interchangeable nozzles. The engraver is used where precise, accurate work is required. This includes jewelry and watchmaking, polishing in narrow openings, design, decor, modeling.

to his appearance The engraver resembles a straight grinder. Main elements: motor, gearbox, spindle, housing. Nozzles are inserted into the spindle. Pressing the button starts the engine. Its rotational motion is transmitted to the gearbox, and then to the spindle, which rotates the nozzle.

The following types of engravers are distinguished:

• battery-powered They do not connect directly to the network. Used away from outlets;
• electric. They work only from the network;
• with flexible shaft. This is a hose of various lengths with a cable inside. The shaft is installed between the spindle and the nozzle. It acts as an extension cord. It is convenient to work with such a shaft, since it is lighter than an engraver, which weighs about a kilogram. It can be held in your hand like a pencil. Very convenient when making drawings, inscriptions, decorative processing;
• laser These devices are machines. They are tabletop and floor-mounted. The latter have large dimensions and are used in production. Based on the type of laser, engraving machines are divided into the following types:
  • gas. Process all materials: from leather to metal;
  • solid state Used to work with metal and plastic. This device is used to mark products, write symbols on a computer keyboard, and make inscriptions.

Photo gallery: what types of devices exist

The cordless engraver has a built-in battery and is used away from electrical outlets
Electric engraver without battery, but with mains cable. It works only from the mains. An engraver with a flexible shaft has a flexible shaft installed between the spindle and the collet, which acts as an extension. The gas engraver is large in size and is used in production.
A solid-state engraver is much smaller than a gas engraver. It is installed on the table, used in everyday life and small business

Classification of engravers according to the material processed:

• on metal. Used to work with hard materials: metal, stone, glass;
• on wood. For processing wood and thin plywood.

How to choose an electrical appliance

To avoid making a mistake with your purchase, determine two things: what kind of work you need the tool for and the type of workpiece material. Then analyze the following selection criteria:

• electric engraver or battery. Consider whether you need an outlet nearby;
• The main parameter of the tool is power. How more value this characteristic, the better the tool will perform the task and the better it will process hard materials;
• the second parameter is important for selecting accessories. This is the collet size. It is designed to clamp and hold engraver attachments. The most common collet diameter is 3.2 mm. Minimum - 0.8 mm. If you find collets of several sizes in the kit, then this is a big plus. Since you will have the opportunity to use a wide variety of attachments;
• number of revolutions and the possibility of their adjustment. This is very important parameter, because there are attachments that cannot be used at low or high speed. Therefore, engravers with a large maximum number of revolutions and the ability to adjust them are preferable. Since they can use various attachments, which means they can perform a wide range of work;
• tool weight. It is advisable to choose a lightweight engraver because the work of making patterns and polishing takes a lot of time. Holding a heavy instrument in your hands for a long time is quite uncomfortable.
• When choosing a tool, considerable attention should be paid to the configuration:
  • The presence of a flexible shaft in the kit will save you from the need to purchase it separately. The flexible shaft itself is very useful and increases ease of use. You can hang the tool on a hook and take the flexible shaft by hand and work;
  • the presence of a variety of attachments will also be a plus. There is a complete set with a whole suitcase of accessories. You may not need some at first, but later you will already know what you need. And don't waste money on the right attachment;
  • packaging matters. It would be good if it was a high-quality case that would hold the engraver with all the accessories.

Rating of the best with photos

The leader is the Dremel 8200-1/35 cordless engraver. This tool weighs only 600 g, high rotation speed with variable speed control. The battery at maximum load will last for 15 minutes of operation. Not so much, but the user rarely uses the highest speeds. And the device charges in one hour. After switching off, the automatic brake is activated.

In second place is the Dremel 200-5 network engraver. This is a powerful and lightweight tool. Operates quietly without overheating or vibration. It is suitable for artists and home craftsmen.

The third position is occupied by the Hammer MD 135 A network engraver. A lightweight, convenient, inexpensive tool. The set includes 40 different attachments and three collets. This engraver comes in second place due to its rapid heating and unstable operation at the lowest speeds.

The Hammer MD 135 engraver comes with 40 attachments and three collets. Due to rapid heating and unstable operation at the lowest speeds, it ranks third

The fourth place was the Hitachi GP10DL cordless engraver. Accelerates to 35 thousand revolutions. Weighs less than 500 g. Works for a long time on one battery charge.

In fifth place is the network engraver Caliber 160. A powerful and resourceful tool. Has 100 nozzles. Supplied with a case and flexible shaft. It comes with Dremel attachments. Disadvantages: vibrates at high speeds, and standard attachments are not of the best quality.

Reviews of engravers

Advantages of the engraver BISON ZG-130EK H219: 1. Cheap, not very noisy. 2. A large initial set of attachments - you can understand what is convenient and what is not, and what you should immediately buy for a normal Dremel the next time the bison dies. 😉 3. Smooth speed control. 4. Lots of glass-stone-cutting (50 or so) and polishing (30-40 pieces) discs included. But there are only 5 metal-cutting ones. Overall, the device is decent, especially considering its price (three times cheaper than a similar Dremel).

Engraver ZUBR ZG-130EK H219 is cheap, has a large set of attachments, has smooth speed control

https://market.yandex.ru/product/10556245/reviews?hid=91662&track=tabs

Features of the Vega Professional VGM-200 engraver: build quality, accessories (case, stand, flexible shaft, additional collet, attachments) price. Good device for those who are looking for something for the soul. It’s great to work on glass at high speeds with a diamond-coated nozzle, the main thing is not to forget to draw the design (pattern) with a permanent marker.

Engraver Vega Professional VGM-200″ width=”638″ height=”209″ /> The engraver Vega Professional VGM-200 is high-quality, rich in equipment. This tool works well on glass.

prootziw

http://otzovik.com/review_4912645.html

I bought a Leroy Merlin DM-130 engraver for small jobs where great effort and high speeds are not needed. End and front grinding wheels, circular abrasives of different sizes, drills, engraving attachments, GOI paste, cutting wheels (a thing!!!) different thicknesses, metal brushes!... And everything seems to cling well, insert, fit and fasten! It works a little loudly, but does not vibrate, and this is valuable for those who plan to make inscriptions on metal. The revolutions are regulated by a “wheel”-regulator in the “plus and minus” direction. I liked the device for its cross-country ability and unpretentiousness.

Engraver Leroy Merlin DM-130″ width=”660″ height=”371″ /> Engraver Leroy Merlin DM-130 has many attachments, the speed is adjustable, and does not vibrate. Convenient for patterns and inscriptions on metal

Nikolay762009

http://otzovik.com/review_3588977.html

I purchased the engraver Diold MED-2 MF not for professional work, but, let’s say, for the home. I was very pleased with the price for the set - 2700 rubles, as well as the rich set (indeed, a lot of things are included in the set). If you use it often, it won’t be very convenient to pack everything back into the case. Among the shortcomings, I can note the lack of a tripod stand. Not a particularly informative instruction (you can figure it out without it, but an unprepared person may still have problems). The kit comes with polishing paste in a tube, but how to get it out of there is still a mystery)) The standard polishing disc (something like felt) was turned after about 2-3 minutes of work (I don’t know how long they last on other engravers, Well, maybe it’s his own fault - he pressed hard...). In terms of the rest, there are probably no complaints. Although among the replacement cutting wheels I found one that was cracked. It took me a while to figure out how to screw on the flexible shaft. and so far the impressions have been only positive. I definitely recommend it for your money! Obviously the Chinese will be better.

Engraver Diold MED-2 MF" width="649″ height="701″ /> Engraver Diold MED-2 MF inexpensive, good quality and equipment. Works well with flexible shaft

Dimarik53rus

http://otzovik.com/review_3247242.html

How to work with it: correct operation

To avoid damaging the product when operating the device, you need to know the rules of use and safety precautions.

Preparing the workplace and tools

1. Designate a table with free space.
2. Install a powerful lamp so that all small details can be seen.
3. Cover the work surface with paper or cloth. Dust and chips are generated during cutting and grinding.
4. Stock up on carpenter's tape, a pencil or a felt-tip pen for drawing. Scotch tape is needed to secure the draft to the surface. Paper tape easy to peel off, it leaves no marks. To apply patterns on a metal, plastic or glass workpiece, degrease the surface with alcohol so that the felt-tip pen does not wash off. Apply the initial drawing on the wood with a pencil.
5. Prepare all necessary attachments. To do this, read the instructions for the device. There is a description of the purpose of all consumables.
6. If you bought an engraver complete with a suspension, then install it in a convenient place. It helps eliminate vibrations during operation and reduce errors. When installing the gimbal, be guided by the placement of the flexible shaft. He shouldn't get in the way.

How to use

1. Wear fabric gloves so that the hand with the tool can easily glide over the surface of the workpiece and stains will not appear on the product.
2. If you are a beginner, select the minimum RPM. Then the pattern will be even, the strokes will be of the same depth, and the material will not be damaged. Turn on the engraver.
3. Trace the outline of the drawing. Once completed, move on to drawing small details.
4. When the pattern is completed, use a soft felt attachment. It usually comes complete with the engraver. This equipment removes roughness.

Safety precautions

• before work, check the integrity of the network cable and working elements;
• use safety glasses to prevent sparks and dust from getting into your eyes;
• To drill and cut materials, hold the device firmly with your entire hand. This way you will avoid arbitrary movements, damage to your hands and working material;
• If the equipment is jammed, do not pull it out of the workpiece. First unplug the engraver or remove the battery. Then remove the nozzle;
• If the engraver body heats up, turn it off and wait until it cools down. If the device does not have a cooling system, then it will have to be interrupted often. This way, you will avoid engine overheating. The instructions describe the operating time;
• When purchasing consumables separately, make sure they match your instrument. They must have the required shank size and match the speed of the engraver.

Care

In order for the tool to work fully for many years, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the working equipment. If visual inspection of the attachments reveals various damages, replace them with others of the same brand as the engraver itself. This is the only way the tool manufacturer can guarantee the device’s operating efficiency and long service life.

After each cycle, clean the ventilation holes in the housing. With their help, the engine is additionally cooled. But when processing wooden, plastic or glass workpieces, the holes become clogged with dust. The resulting contaminants affect the performance of the tool and cause its failure. To avoid this nuisance, you need to remove debris carefully using a damp, clean rag. It can be soaked in soapy water. To avoid damage to the housing, do not use products based on alcohol, thinner or gasoline. The equipment that was used in the process also needs to be cleaned.

By following these simple tips, you will use your engraver for a long time and get high-quality results.

DIY engraver

The device can be made from the simplest available materials.

Electric pencil

This method is only suitable for engraving on conductive surfaces. The core of a simple stationery pencil consists of graphite, which transmits well electricity. You can use an electric pencil to engrave on a metal surface. Such a pattern can only be erased with a grinding machine. You will need: a pencil with an eraser at the end, a plug for a socket with a two-wire cable, a 100 W light bulb, rubber gloves, two pieces of wire, an alligator clip, metal blank, for example, a knife.

1. Remove the eraser from the pencil and drill it through the middle.
2. Pass the wire through the hole. Remove a few centimeters of insulation and twist the exposed area. Sharpen the pencil slightly where the eraser was to improve contact.
3. Place the eraser with the wire on the pencil.
4. Take the lamp. Connect a pencil to one terminal, and a plug cable core to the other. Connect the unused wire to the crocodile and to the free wire of the plug. Connect the metal clamp to the knife. The structure is ready.
5. In order not to spoil the workpiece with an accidental blot, first apply a rough inscription. Wear rubber gloves for safety. Plug your device into the network and start working. During engraving, a spark is formed between the pencil and the knife, which creates the design.

Video: how to make an electric pencil for engraving on metal

Universal engraver

Using this option, you will be able to perform different operations. You will need: a connector for a power supply with two wires, a button, a plastic bottle with a cap, a 12 V power supply, a 12 V motor, a piece of plastic pipe 10 cm long with internal diameter slightly larger than the engine.

1. Drill a hole in the pipe for the switch. Coat the motor casing with hot glue to secure it to the pipe.
2. Insert the motor into the pipe. Pass one of the wires through the hole.
3. Insert one wire of the connector for the power supply into the pipe and pass through the hole. Take the button. Solder two wires sticking out of the hole to it. Insulate the contacts.
4. You should have two free wires left: from the engine and from the connector for the power supply. Connect them.
5. Cut from plastic bottle part of the neck with a lid. Drill a hole in the center of the cover for the connector. Glue the connector to the cover and the cover to the pipe.
6. Take a 12 V power supply and connect it to the connector. Press the button to check the engine's functionality.

Instead of the connector for the power supply, you can install a pair of batteries.

Video: DIY electric engraver

Repair of engraver and consumables

The main malfunctions of the engraver and their causes:

• the engraver does not turn on. You need to charge the battery if available. And turn it on again. If the problem persists, check all wires and the motor with a multimeter;
• doesn't turn. The reason is the power button or the motor;
• spins weakly. Not enough power. Check the brushes;
• rustles or crunches. The reason is the gearbox or bearings;
• sparks or gets hot. The engine is faulty.

Analysis and troubleshooting

To identify and correct problems, the tool must be disassembled.

If there is no visible damage, it means the winding is broken or shorted. Then change the stator.

To test the rotor, first connect adjacent lamellas on the armature. Then place one probe on the rotor iron, the other on each lamella in turn. If a malfunction is detected, replace the rotor.

Rotate the bearings on the motor shaft. They shouldn't rustle. Replace faulty ones.

Video: how to disassemble and check the device for damage

Repair of collet and flexible shaft

If the collet no longer clamps the nozzles, you need to unscrew the clamping tip and remove the collet. A broken part cannot be repaired, and blockages between the petals must be removed regularly with a thin, sharp object. They interfere with the full clamping of the attachments.

The flexible shaft is a hose with a cable inside. The cable must be lubricated with graphite lubricant. To do this, bend the shaft and the cable will come out through the sleeve. Pull it out and lubricate it.

If the cable is broken, it must be replaced.

Selecting and replacing nozzles

When choosing accessories, consider the collet diameter of your tool. If necessary, buy a set of collets of different sizes.

Types of nozzles:

• carbide. WITH different types notches. They have large and small heads. Designed for pre-treatment or intermediate operations;
• diamond Made of diamond coated steel. Very productive. This is the main working tool;
• disk holders. Cutting, rubber, and felt wheels are installed on them;
• rubber with corundum. For metal processing;
• abrasive. For processing ceramics, stone, glass, metal;
• felt For polishing wood.

How to replace the nozzle

You need to loosen the collet, remove the attachment, insert another one and tighten the collet. To install the flexible shaft, the collet must be removed. Install the rectangular adapter, and put the flexible shaft sleeve on it. Screw a collet onto the working end of the shaft.

How to make your own nozzles

Having an engraver on the farm allows you to perform a wide variety of operations. And it is not at all necessary to draw patterns or drill holes in printed circuit boards. An engraver will help you simply remove rust from a bolt or coupling. It is much more difficult to do this with sandpaper or a grinder. And if you don’t want to spend money on a device, you can assemble it yourself. Such a tool will be easier to repair. Replaced the engine or the worn-out homemade nozzle and the problem was solved.

Engraving, grinding, cutting on metal, glass, plastic, bone - all this is included in the capabilities of the electric engraver. For those who are still deciding which instrument to choose, an overview of its varieties will be useful. Tips and video instructions for working with an electric engraver, as well as a description of some breakdowns and how to fix them, will be useful to owners of the tool. And those who like an individual approach will learn how to make it at home.

Electric engraver - features, main tasks, types

An electric engraver is very similar in shape and general operating principle to a drill. The main difference between the engraver is its miniature size (you can work with one hand) and high speed, that is, the number of revolutions per minute. This tool allows you to work also with high accuracy. An electric engraver, as the name suggests, is primarily designed for engraving - applying letters, lines, backgrounds to a surface. But it's not that simple.

Kinds

Trying to find a suitable model for yourself, it doesn’t take long to get confused. In catalogs and in the names of manufacturers there are many names: “engraver”, “mini-” or “microdrill”, “dremel”, “drill”, “straight grinder”. What should you consider? What to miss? I want certainty. A review of models depending on their capabilities, as well as reviews from those who already use the tool, will help solve this problem.

Shock

The Dremel Engraver 290 works on the impact principle

In a very strict sense, an engraver is a percussion instrument; the operating principle is similar to a hammer drill. It is designed simply. Accurate in operation, but noisy unpleasant sound. An impact engraver is designed for a small range of work - namely, dot engraving or, if you get creative with the attachment, carving; it is perfect for working on metal and inscriptions. Dot engraving produces a silky finish. You can also make contour drawings on stone or work on glass, but you must be careful with this material - there is a high risk of breaking the surface. Among impact engravers, Dremel models are the most represented on the market; there are Chinese analogues, they are inexpensive, but the quality of their work is a big question.

Video: review and test of the Dremel Engraver

Network devices with motor and tip in one housing

Many manufacturers and craftsmen also call mini-drills, drills, and straight grinders engravers. These are tools that work on the principle of rotation: the motor turns the spindle, a chuck is attached to the spindle, into which the equipment (attachments) is installed. The peculiarity of such a device is the abundance of attachments for it; you can either purchase them or make them yourself. They can perform a huge number of operations - grinding, polishing, drilling, milling, sharpening. The devices within this huge group differ depending on the structure of the case and the method of power supply. But they are all united by miniature size and precision processing.

Corded tools operate from an electrical network and are more similar to a small drill than others. As a rule, they are made in a plastic case. The group is very large, the scope is very wide. Most cheap Chinese models with rather modest characteristics belong to this type of instrument. A special cable with a tip - a flexible shaft - and a special stand make it possible to expand the functions of such devices, turning them into an analogue of suspended machines.

Electric engraver Sturm. The included flexible shaft allows for greater accuracy

Suspended machines

The tip of these devices is connected to the body flexible cable. The speed is controlled not by a switch, but by a pedal.

The speed of the Dremel Fortiflex pendant electric engraver is controlled by a pedal

Mobile electric engravers

The peculiarity of such devices is that they receive power not from the mains, but from batteries. You can work with them anywhere. Such a device will be especially useful for a craftsman working with wet material - battery-powered power tools are the safest in such cases.

The Dremel 7700–30 engraver can be used even where there is no access to power.

Which electric engraver to choose

Weight, noise, power, number of revolutions - these are the main characteristics that directly affect the quality and ease of operation. As with other tools, there is no such thing as an ideal engraver. Powerful models lose speed, while fast models lose power. It is not so convenient to perform long operations with a heavy tool; a light one is often distinguished by the low quality of the materials from which the parts and body are made.

Key Features Affecting Performance

To make it easier to decide which parameters you can sacrifice when choosing a machine and which you can’t, the list contains not only technical specifications instrument, but also the relationship between them:

• power. The difference in power between the machines on the market is very large - from approximately 12 to 350 W. Very often, weight directly depends on power. The higher the power, the heavier the device. Power is also directly related to torque. This parameter is measured in Newtons per centimeter. This is a kind of machine power. Manufacturers often do not indicate it at all, limiting themselves to power. Among other things, torque also affects how a machine with large-diameter equipment will operate. The larger the diameter, the greater this indicator should be. Torque depends on engine size. The larger the diameter, the higher the indicator will be. The higher the engine speed, the lower the torque;.
• number of revolutions. This is the speed at which the attachment rotates. The spread is also very large, on average reaching 35,000 rpm at maximum, at minimum - from zero. The speed control function is very useful; the vast majority of models are equipped with it;
• collet. Nozzle holder. The ability to attach chucks and collets of different sizes will be an advantage - you will be able to attach equipment from different manufacturers to the tool. It is worth paying attention to how standard the thread on the cartridge is.

The collet chuck and collets influence the versatility of the electric engraver. It depends on the type of cartridge whether it is possible to install attachments with different sizes shank

Table: types of materials and optimal tool parameters for working with them

Plastic	Melts easily. You cannot work with it at high speeds - when heated, the material will soften, deform, and begin to stick to the tool. Very viscous. The processing torque must be high
Bone	At high speeds, the bone also deteriorates, burns, and clogs the surface of the instrument. It is extremely important to choose the right equipment - a small notch gets clogged very quickly, while a too large one spoils the material, tearing out pieces. At low speeds it is processed poorly, chips, and a torn surface is obtained. The tool may even jump off and “move” - and this can lead to injury. RPM for working with bone - 10,000–35,000. High torque is not needed
Stone	The RPM doesn't matter much. But processing requires a lot of effort. Need a powerful tool with high torque
Glass	It is a very fragile material and you cannot apply much force to it. You don't need high torque, but you do need high rpm. At low speeds there is a danger that the glass will break
Tree	Depends on the type of wood. It is better to study this topic separately - each type of tree requires its own parameters and equipment. For example, for loose rocks, more revolutions and not very high torque will be required

What exactly needs to be done with the tool is also important. Engraving, cutting or grinding? Or maybe polishing? When cutting you need high speeds, and when polishing you need more power. The more complex a task a master sets for himself, the less likely it is that one universal tool will cope with it perfectly. If you plan to process wet material, you must only use a device with a battery or flexible shaft - this is a matter of your safety.

It is best to choose one - expensive and high-quality - tool for basic work and a second - cheaper and simpler - for what you plan to do less often.

Equipment

Engravers, as a rule, are equipped with a storage case, as well as a variety of sets of attachments. When buying your first engraving machine, you shouldn’t chase an abundance of consumables and overpay for something that will never be useful. Take the standard set. Among the additional equipment included in the package, you can pay attention to the flexible shaft - it will give more possibilities for precise work - and a stand to hang the engraver itself when working with a flexible shaft.

The stand and flexible shaft will help you work with the electric engraver with greater accuracy

For complex tasks, for various types of work with materials of different properties, you will need a tool with an expanded set.

The extended configuration of the electric engraver includes not only attachments, but also an additional battery pack, a handle for fine work, a compass and other accessories.

Engravers are produced under many brands. These are “Zubr”, “Caliber”, “Whirlwind”, Intertool, Hammer, Bosh, Watt, Wortex, Ryobi, Sturm, Einhell, Proxxon and others. The most famous brand, Dremel, is named after the inventor of the tool with a small electric motor and high speed, Albert Dremel. Now this word has become a household word - any electric engravers are often called Dremels.

In 1906, a young mechanic, Albert Dremel, came from Austria to the United States. At first he had to work in a workshop, where he did all kinds of rough work - he adjusted parts with a file, sharpened workpieces lathe. And for fun, I played the violin a little in local pubs on weekends. In 1931 he founded his own company - Dremel Manufacturing Company. Its first successful product was an electric razor sharpening machine. And Dremel’s next invention forever won the hearts of all kinds of DIYers.

Tatiana Pham

Magazine "Popular Mechanics" No. 12 of 2015

Reviews, opinions about electric engravers

There is no ideal tool - tested in practice. But reviews, both positive and negative, can still help with the choice: it is always useful to know what you might encounter when using the machine. Here are some reviews of various models.

Dremel is good with a huge number of attachments, it is almost a universal tool. Adjusting the speed also helps. I bought myself a kit 300 series - I couldn’t be more pleased. But the thing is not a budget thing, yes, the set came out to 3500, and there are almost the same number of attachments, and that’s not all. About the rest they say that the accuracy is not the same, but the build quality is not the same. This is understandable; it’s more profitable for them to sell at a higher price. You can try looking for a used one, there are good options.

Romick

http://www.tehnari.ru/f34/t57749/#post593402

I am the owner (about 4 years) of a Dremel 4000. The machine is very good and reliable. But if I decide to buy another one, I won’t choose Dremel. The reason is simple - the use of exclusively branded consumables that are far from cheap and not of very high quality. Tools from other manufacturers are very rarely suitable. The kit included only a collet for 3.2 mm shanks, and most of the work has to be done with dental burs. I tried to order cartridges from China, but contrary to the assurances of the sellers (I ordered two times from different ones), the thread does not fit. I didn’t receive an answer or a greeting when ordering from a Russian online store, and, most likely, there are the same ones from China. Here is the Dremel in homemade stand for drilling boards, and only Japanese board drills with a 3.17 mm shank are used with it. The rest of the load is carried by the inexpensive, but as practice has shown, no less reliable Chinese Wolf MD32, the cartridges of which fit without any questions.

uzren

http://www.tehnari.ru/f222/t247517/#post2397508

Proxxon FBS 240/E is available on the farm. I've been using it for several years. When I compared it with others, I settled on it. The 50th seemed rather weak. I took it when I had to repair an expensive interchangeable lens from a Canon SLR camera. They slammed it down and broke the zoom lens. It was necessary to drill four holes with a diameter of 0.4 mm in a wall with a thickness of 0.82 mm. The machine did a great job, the cartridge does not hit at all, it works smoothly. Later I acquired the necessary equipment, in particular, a flexible hose with a regular chuck and a chuck for collets. It should be noted that the collets for it are three-jaw, and this already says something. I use it as a “thin” tool. For more rough work there are other adaptations. I’m thinking of getting another BFW 40/E drilling and milling head from the same company. Had to work hand tools and from other manufacturers, but, in my opinion, this one is the best.

VlaDZeniN

http://www.cqham.ru/forum/archive/index.php/t-23998.html

I have Ferm (Austrian type). He has already recouped his money a long time ago (his price was something like 30–40 bucks). I can’t say that it’s terribly poor quality. The most useful thing is the flexible shaft. Everything that is missing from the attachments in the basic kit must be purchased separately. Cutting wheels are a weak thing and independent of the manufacturer (the exception is reinforced ones, but they are difficult to find here), in the end I make them myself from a 1 mm grinder cutting wheel. Everything else doesn't require hands on.

SknUA

http://forum.amadeus-project.com/index.php?showtopic=719&view=findpost&p=10410

Nozzles for electric engraver - types, methods of application and do-it-yourself modifications

Most often, a set of attachments is supplied with the tool. You can purchase what you need later. Ideally, the attachment should be from the same company as the engraver - only then the manufacturer guarantees quality. But if the “native” attachment is not on sale or is too expensive, you can use analogues or even homemade ones. The main thing you need to pay attention to is that the tail diameter (shank) of the nozzle matches the cartridge in the engraver. Inexpensive attachments, especially made in China, most often have a shank with a diameter of 3.2 mm.

Nozzles are usually easy to change. You need to press the stop button, thereby blocking the spindle. Use the key that comes with the tool to loosen the collet chuck, then unscrew it and remove the attachment. Insert new one. For a thicker or thinner nozzle, you will have to change the collet. The jaw chuck makes this task easier - depending on the size range, attachments with different diameters shank.

Universal jaw chuck allows quick installation of bits with different shank diameters

Engraving bits, burs

Available in various alloys, with different types of coating, various forms. Designed mainly for applying patterns to surfaces. The type of bur depends on the material to be worked with. So, the most commonly used are the following:

• carbide - very durable, high-quality and expensive attachments, a special type of carbide bur - in the shape of a peak, they are good for working on plastic, bone, with these burs they make tracing - they draw the main lines of the drawing;
• steel - the main cutting tool, they come in various shapes and configurations;
• combined - steel base and carbide head;
• Diamond-coated nozzles are very productive; You can buy them at a medical equipment store, they are also available on Chinese websites - they are of quite acceptable quality.

Diamond-coated engraving bits - burs of this type, even in inexpensive sets, are of good quality

Sometimes manufacturers mark burs with color. The color also indicates the degree of sharpening. Burs with black markings are very productive, but the sharpening of blue and green ones is weaker. Yellow marked burs are good for finishing.

Making a bur - a triangular peak - by hand

If there is no suitable attachment on sale, you can make one. For example, a bur in the shape of a triangular peak. Factory (Kazan) versions are thin, elongated, with a high pyramid, but their tip has some rounding. It is quite possible to eliminate this drawback at home. You can resharpen factory ones, or you can make your own using an old bur - a truncated cone. Sharpen on a diamond disc. Before sharpening, you need to find the middle of the working part of the workpiece bur and sharpen it at an obtuse angle. After you have some semblance of a bullet, you can draw the edges. After sharpening, the attachment must be checked on the material, and then fine-tuned manually using sandpaper.

Video: making a nozzle - a triangular peak with your own hands

Other types of attachments

In addition to engraving, a machine can perform a huge number of operations. It is for them - cutting, drilling, grinding, polishing - that other types of attachments are intended.

The entire array of equipment can be divided into groups. Here are some of them:

• drills - like burs, there are carbide and steel;
• brushes - steel, muslin fabric, thread;
• rubber cylinders - often craftsmen “bring them to mind” by placing them on used burs, grinding off the tip with an abrasive, giving it the shape of a bullet, resulting in a good grinding attachment;
• grinding stones - differ both in shape and material;
• grinding discs - sanding wheels (they can be cut from regular sandpaper and glued to the base, attached to the disc holder), diamond rings;
• special holders onto which felt is screwed; they very often come in sets of accessories along with the tool; instead of such a holder, you can also use an old bur, and attach the felt pad with superglue;
• “Hedgehog” attachments made of tsungsten carbide, these are burs coated with needles and crumbs; they can be used to work with plastic, artificial stone, wood; require special care when using - you can get hurt.

How to work as an electric engraver

Before you start, it doesn’t hurt to think about the organization of your workplace. You will have to deal with small details, elements, and precision will be required. Therefore, take care of lighting in advance. When working, dust and small particles will probably fly away - cover the surface of the table or furniture with something.

Step-by-step instruction

1. First, create a blank - what you will eventually engrave on. Many operations, especially on wood - cutting, grinding - can be performed with an electric engraver.
2. Then secure the stencil. You can draw lines on paper by applying a drawing to the surface. Or you can transfer it directly onto the material using, for example, carbon paper. The surface must be degreased before applying the pattern. If you have a ready-made stencil design, secure it to the surface with tape. If you work with gloves, there will be no traces left on the degreased surface. To engrave on glass, the design must be placed underneath it.
3. Start with the outline and only then move on to the small details of the drawing. Mark complex lines with dots and then connect them. Chiaroscuro in the drawing, tone, if any, is best done last.

Video: making a wooden shelf with engraving

Safety precautions

• be sure to wear glasses;
• start with low speeds - this way there is less chance that the tool will come off due to unaccustomed use;
• when drawing a line, move the engraver away from you if possible;
• take breaks, ideally every 10–15 minutes, this will help prevent the instrument from overheating; if the device has good system cooling, you can interrupt less often, but remember about your own fatigue - it would be a shame to ruin your work just before the finish line;
• Before starting work, be sure to inspect the tool and attachments: the power cord must be in good condition, the attachments must be free of damage or chips; damaged ones must be replaced.
• consumables, discs, attachments must match the parameters of the tool, first of all, this concerns the dimensions of the shank.

Care

Less repair costs and more pleasant work experience - this can be achieved by properly caring for the tool. Moreover, there is no need for particularly labor-intensive care and cleaning.

The engraver can be used, as they say, out of the box - the tool does not require any special tricks before the first use. But after use, you need to clean it - just sweep away the dust from the tip and body. Particular attention should be paid to ventilation slots. You can use a brush or brush.

Repair - what you can do yourself

In case of serious damage, of course, it is better to contact a workshop. But in many cases you can handle it yourself. If we are talking about a Dremel tool, then disassembling it is not difficult - just unscrew the screws and pry off the body parts with a screwdriver. They come apart easily.

Electric engraver device

The machine consists of a motor (stator, armature), a spindle (shaft), brushes, a cooling system, and a tip to which the equipment is attached. Some models are equipped with a speed switch, impact force switch, and electronics (screen showing the number of revolutions). But the general principle remains the same.

Stator - external, stationary part of the engine The armature, or rotor, is the internal, moving part of the engine. Bearings are installed at the edges of the armature

The device makes an uncharacteristic sound, the air flow from the fan increases

Perhaps the armature is catching on the stator. One of the reasons is the failure of the rubber ring - the coupling; over time it can wear out or even break. In order to replace the clutch, you need to disassemble not only the housing itself, but also the engine.

Video: disassembling the electric engraver motor, replacing the coupling

Overheat

If the machine heats up too much and too quickly, the bearings may be clogged with dirt and need to be cleaned and lubricated. It is necessary to remove the armature; there is no need to remove the bearings from it. First, use an awl to carefully remove the anthers, then wash the bearings with kerosene. Rinse very thoroughly. For this, as for lubricant, you can use a syringe. If the anthers become deformed during disassembly, they need to be straightened - a small flat-head screwdriver is convenient for this.

Video: cleaning and lubricating bearings

Poor speed shifting

The switch may be faulty due to clogged dust - small particles flying during operation. To do this, you need to disassemble the device and clean it. It is very effective to blow through the insides of the instrument compressed air from a small bottle. Remove remaining dust with a brush.

Video: cleaning the speed switch

How to make an electric engraver yourself

A tool designed for simple tasks, you can make it yourself using various basics. Appliances with a motor, such as a blender, work well. A hand blender is also good because its handle is anatomically shaped, it is comfortable to hold, and the motor in this device is quite powerful. To do this, you will need to purchase a collet chuck and a switch so that you do not have to manually press the button all the time.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Disassemble the blender body.
2. Remove the printed circuit board and motor.
3. Measure the spindle - a collet chuck will be needed exactly for this diameter.
4. Clean the parts, especially the old engine, thoroughly.
5. Place the chuck on the spindle.
6. Instead of the blender button, install a switch lever. To do this you will need to remove printed circuit board button contacts, and instead of them solder wires for the switch.
7. Drill a hole in the body for the lever.
8. Install the board and switch, put the motor in place.
9. Assemble the body.

Video: DIY blender engraver

An electric engraver is a universal tool that can be used to perform a huge number of operations, not limited to drawings and inscriptions. The choice of models is very wide, and the most famous brand, Dremel, has worthy competitors. The machine should be selected according to the type of work and the main material with which you are going to experiment. There are a huge number of attachments for an electric engraver, but if you were unable to purchase the one you need, you can make some yourself. At home, you can also repair the device and even make it from another household appliance, such as a blender.

Working as an engraver is a fascinating procedure, with the help of which you can create various patterns and inscriptions on the surface of the workpiece, grind and polish small parts, and also solve a whole list other tasks. In order for the results of working as an engraver, which can be a standard drill, to be of high quality, it is necessary not only to understand why it is needed, but also to know all the nuances of using such equipment.

The engraver allows you to work not only with wood, but also with other materials

Equipment selection

When choosing an engraver or drill, you must decide for what work such a device will be used, as well as what materials will be processed with its help. Knowing this, you can choose an engraving machine for working on metal and other materials or a drill for wood carving (even taking into account the huge variety of similar devices presented on the modern market) without any problems.

The most significant characteristics of engravers that you should pay attention to are:

• the power of the drive motor, which determines the ability of the equipment to operate for a long time under significant mechanical loads and process various materials;
• the number of revolutions developed by the working body in which the engraving tool is fixed.

Nowadays, there is plenty to choose from; each manufacturer produces several models of engravers that differ in both price and functionality.

Very often, those who are going to purchase an engraver for their professional activities or for work at home have to make a choice between the two characteristics mentioned above. No matter how much one would like it, not a single modern engraving device from among serial models is capable of effectively combining high power and speed. That is why specialists who often have to use an engraver immediately purchase both powerful and resourceful models. The best choice in such cases would be:

• a powerful engraver, the working tip of which has reinforced structure;
• compact and lightweight micromotor capable of operating at high speeds.

For heavy work, a tool with an additional handle will be convenient, and fine engraving is best done with a compact device

For not too complicated engraving work at home, you can make such a device yourself, giving it exactly the functionality and characteristics that are necessary. There is a wide variety of designs of homemade engravers and videos about their manufacture, so choosing an acceptable option is not difficult. For example, you can make an engraver that will be driven by an electric motor from an old household appliances. However, to make it convenient to work with, a homemade engraving machine must be equipped with a flexible drive and a special attachment in which the tool used will be fixed.

Applying homemade engraver at home, you can not only apply inscriptions and patterns to the product, but also perform various types of processing of parts made of metal, plastic and bone. Wood carving with a handmade engraver is also possible. Depending on the working tool installed in the attachment of such a device, it can be used as a mini-drill, a small router, a compact grinder and polisher.

To choose a serial model of an engraver that will effectively cope with all assigned tasks, you should focus not only on the rating of such equipment among specialists, but also on its characteristics and functionality.

Serial models of engravers

Serial models of engravers, which are equally successfully used both at home and in the professional sphere, can be divided into the following categories.

Technical drills

These are powerful sleeveless devices with which you can successfully perform various technological operations, namely: drilling, grinding, milling, etc. Such units, operating at low speeds, are equipped with a convenient foot pedal and can be used in conjunction with both collet and quick-release chucks.

The power of technical drills allows them to be used for various operations with the help of additional attachments and accessories

Micromotors without flexible drive(sleeves)

Compact drive motor for engravers of this type, is attached to the back of the working attachment. Such small and high-speed engravers, not intended for heavy loads, are used primarily for the most delicate work. At the same time, the micromotor with which these engravers are equipped cannot be repaired; it can only be replaced with a new one. That is why it is advisable to use these devices for not too complex work, without subjecting it to significant loads.

Engravers or drills with flexible shaft

These drills are very convenient to use for engraving and fine carving. However, it should be borne in mind that the flexible shaft with which they are equipped reduces their power by almost half.

How to work as an engraver

To make the work performed by the engraver more comfortable and efficient, certain rules should be followed.

Preparation of the workplace

The working surface on which engraving is performed with a drill must be well lit, so it must be equipped powerful lamp, allowing you to easily examine in great detail all the elements being processed. If you use a paper template for engraving, you will need masking tape, with which the template is fixed to the surface to be processed. Sometimes a sketch of a design or inscription that needs to be engraved is applied to the product being processed with a regular felt-tip pen or pencil. The surface must be degreased with alcohol.

Tool preparation

To perform engraving, various tools are used that are installed in the engraver. Each of them performs certain functions. Thus, a tool with a cone-shaped working part is needed to apply the outline of a design, and a cylindrical bur is needed to create small strokes. Before starting work, all tools should be laid out on the workbench in the exact order in which they will be used.

Carrying out engraving

The hand holding the engraver's working attachment should slide freely over the surface being processed; for this, it is recommended to wear a fabric glove. Such a glove will also allow you not to leave hand marks on the grease-free surface of the workpiece. If you do not yet have experience in engraving, it is better to carry out the work at minimum speed. This will allow you to cut an even pattern consisting of strokes of the same depth, without damaging the workpiece.

All engraving methods assume that the outline of the design is first made, and only then appropriate tool“draw” its details. The made drawing should be processed with a felt roller, which will give it a more neat appearance and remove all burrs left by the tool from the treated surface.

If the design of the engraver or drill you use does not provide a system forced ventilation, then after 10–15 minutes of operation the equipment should be turned off and allowed to cool naturally.

ENGRAVER

ENGRAVER

(French graveur, from graver - to cut). 1) carver on wood, metal or stone. 2) beetle family. bark beetles

Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. - Chudinov A.N., 1910 .

ENGRAVER

1) engaged in engraving; 2) see BARK BEETLE.

Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. - Pavlenkov F., 1907 .

ENGRAVER

A complete dictionary of foreign words that have come into use in the Russian language. - Popov M., 1907 .

ENGRAVER

French graveur, from graver, to carve. Cutter.

Explanation of 25,000 foreign words that have come into use in the Russian language, with the meaning of their roots. - Mikhelson A.D., 1865 .

Engraver

I. ( fr.) bug family. bark beetles, common in Europe and Asia (Siberia); is a pest coniferous trees, especially ate.

II. ( fr. graveur)

2) an artist engaged in carving (sometimes etching) images on wood, metal, stone, linoleum and other materials.

New dictionary of foreign words. - by EdwART,, 2009 .

Engraver

engraver, m. [fr. graveur]. Master engraver.

Large dictionary of foreign words. - Publishing House "IDDK", 2007 .

Engraver

(Not: engraver), A, m., shower (fr. graveur).
1. Worker - engraving specialist ( cm. engrave).
2. Artist creating engravings.
3. zool. Bug family bark beetles, common in Europe and Siberia; pest of coniferous trees, especially spruce.

Explanatory dictionary of foreign words by L. P. Krysin. - M: Russian language, 1998 .

Synonyms:

See what "ENGRAVER" is in other dictionaries:

Engraver, engraver, bark beetle, chalcographer, aquafortist, xylograph Dictionary of Russian synonyms. engraver noun, number of synonyms: 14 aquafortist (1) ... Synonym dictionary

engraver- graveur CARTOGRAPHER… Historical Dictionary Gallicisms of the Russian language

- (Pityogenes chalcographus) beetle of the bark beetle family. The body is elongated (2-2.9 mm), black-brown, shiny. Distributed in Europe and Asia (Siberia); in the north it gives 1 generation per year, in Central Europe 2. It develops in the thin bark and sapwood of young... ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Through him. Graveur or straight from French. graveur... Etymological Dictionary of the Russian Language by Max Vasmer

Engraver I m. 1. One who does engraving. 2. An artist who creates engravings [engraving 1.]. II m. Beetle of the bark beetle family; pest of coniferous trees (especially spruce). Ephraim's explanatory dictionary. T. F. Efremova. 2000... Modern explanatory dictionary of the Russian language by Efremova

Stichels tools for end engraving Engraving by A. Dürer Engraving (French gravure from German graben to dig or French graver to cut, create a relief) is a type of graphic art that involves the creation of printed forms in different ways ... Wikipedia

engraver- gr aver, a (beetle) ... Russian spelling dictionary

engraver- see engraver II... Dictionary of Russian accents

engraver- Graverlau eshe belen shөgyllanүche, graverlau ostasy... Tatar telen anlatmaly suzlege

engraver- a, h. An artist who creates engravings (2nd meaning); engraving specialist... Ukrainian Tlumach Dictionary

Books

• , I. E. Andreevsky. Goa (Goa, ancient Govay) is a fortified seaside city in the Portuguese possessions of India, on an island at the mouth of the river. Mandanas or Mandavi; nicknamed the “city of churches”, with architectural beauty surpassing...
• Encyclopedic Dictionary, vol. 9. Goa - Engraver, I. E. Andreevsky. Goa (Goa, ancient Govay) is a fortified seaside city in the Portuguese possessions of India, on an island at the mouth of the river. Mandanas or Mandavi; nicknamed the “city of churches”, architectural beauty…