Date: 2012-02-07 22:54:25
In former times, filling the construction planes was a whole undertaking: it was necessary to prepare building mixture or get some tapes somewhere mineral wool. Today, these materials have already ceased to be used, since polyurethane foam has firmly entered our lives.

This material is easy to use and practical. Apply polyurethane foam will not be difficult, and with its help you can always easily fill all the small cracks and crevices. It does not need to be prepared for work in any way, and its sound and heat insulation characteristics deserve the warmest words. The astringent characteristics allow the foam to be used for gluing various insulating materials.

Let's start installing the doors

When the door frame is installed in the opening, it is necessary to adjust it horizontally and vertically. Immediately after this, you can begin fixing it using polyurethane foam. Since foam that gets on the surface is very difficult to remove, you need to protect the door frame before using it. You can try to remove freshly applied foam with a solvent, but if it hardens, you will only have to cut it, and traces of it will remain on the surface. To avoid this, simply cover the door and frame with film or masking tape, you should work with gloves. Now you can start.

Foam has the amazing ability to increase in volume several times, so the opposite side of the door frame should be reinforced with spacers. If you ignore this requirement, then the pressure that the foam creates will lead to deformation of the product.

Before using the foam can, shake it and moisten the opening and outside of the door frame with water. Moisture will increase the adhesion of the material and promote rapid hardening of the foam. If there is excess water, the result will be exactly the opposite. One more parting word - the cylinder should always be turned upside down when used.

Polyurethane foam adheres perfectly to various building materials from glass to concrete. The only exceptions are chemical materials such as polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon and silicone. Foam should be worked at a temperature environment+5..+30 degrees. However, there are varieties that work down to -10 degrees.

How to apply polyurethane foam

When the foam hardens, the door frame may become distorted. To insure against this, the foam can be applied in two stages. Initially, it is applied in dots, and after an hour or two, the remaining cavities are filled. In cases where the distance between the wall and the door frame is very small, the spray tube can be slightly flattened. When the distance is significant (8 cm and above), you can put suitable material, and then fill it with foam from both edges.

Because foam expands, cracks and voids should only be filled one-third full. It is preferable to fill vertical cavities from the bottom up. In this case, the foam will act as a support. It may take 3-24 hours for complete hardening, depending on the type of foam and environmental conditions. When the material has completely hardened, its excess can be removed and work can begin. next stage installation work: installation of platbands, extensions, seals, etc.

Polyurethane foam is resistant to mechanical stress and has many advantages. However, this material is not without its drawbacks. It absorbs moisture and is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation (direct rays of the sun). Considering these disadvantages, in order to increase the service life of the material, it is necessary to take care of its waterproofing protection and hide it from direct sunlight. To do this, use putty, paint or sealant.

Many people work on installing doors on foam brings real pleasure. Observing simple rules When working with this material, you will avoid annoying disappointments in the form of remaining foam on the surface of doors, walls or areas of your body.

Every master is faced with the problem of how and what to attach assembled doors. To install a ready-made door block possible use in various ways installations. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the one that suits you. You will need a small set of tools: a drill, a hammer drill, a level, a screwdriver and a hammer. Also, to directly secure the box in the opening, fasteners and polyurethane foam are needed. Depending on where you need to attach the door block, you may need screws, dowels, and anchors.

The main stages of installing a door block

At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. This can be done using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then press this structure away from the opening. If during installation old box Anchor bolts and nails were used, which are not possible to unscrew; they can be cut down using a grinder.

Before installing the box interior doors it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account differences in the level of walls and floors. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are any unevenness, the frame does not go deeper into the opening. This is necessary for the door trim to fit. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use a building level and take into account all the errors in the opening.

First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening to achieve the initial level of rigidity using wedges. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct positioning with a level so that the frame is level with the door.

Working with polyurethane foam

It is important to know that the foam that is intended for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient; it hardens much faster. Foam, which is supplied in large quantities with a straw, will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash off. It is important to know that you need to start foaming by fixing individual small areas. After 30 minutes you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inward. We recommend using professional foams.

Since wood contracts and expands precisely because high humidity the consequence of expansion is deformation of the door block. The door will simply stop closing for this reason.

Video on possible door installation methods

There are several ways to fasten a door frame in an opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various options fastenings provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope there are video stories on options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.

Hidden method of installing doors on foam

The door frame is fixed in the opening using wooden wedges for fixation, and correct location checked by construction level. Foaming with polyurethane foam should be done little by little, in sections and with breaks, to avoid deformation. The door frame is held in place almost thanks to foam alone.

To maintain the gap between the frame and the door itself, small 3 mm spacers are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can only be removed when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require special effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.

Installing doors using clamps or spacers

The installation principle is that we use spacers inside to temporarily fasten the door block in the opening. These can be either ordinary wooden rivers or special adjustable devices.

Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.

Fastening doors using Knauf hangers

For these purposes, direct suspensions from the Knauf company, which are used in suspended ceilings, are ideally suited.

• The plates must first be screwed to the box.
• Insert the door into the opening.
• Adjust the level.
• We mark the places for the recess in the wall.
• We make a sample for the plate.

After this, we set it according to the level and fix the plates. To adjust, we use wedging with wooden blocks.

It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of installing the box on the outer part of the wall, the location of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is only good if there is no finishing.

New mounting options

This video will show you how to attach door frame in the doorway. This type of fastening involves installing an interior door frame by placing the frame on the screwed heads of the screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed with outside boxes.

To achieve final fixation of the box in doorway, the usual means of adjustment are used.

With this method, the door block pillars move freely in the opening.

The obvious advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining original form boxes and exterior finishing walls.

Concealed installation, fastening under hinges

As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, make a hole between the screws in the hinge and attach it to the wall through it. On the side of the lock, under the decorative plate, another fastener is attached. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.

After direct fastening, we place a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not secured, and fill all the gaps with foam.

A significant advantage of this method is relative rigidity and preservation of appearance.

Through fastening with anchors or screws

This is the most common standard option installation of interior doors. For this fastening option, holes for anchors are first drilled in the required places of the racks, then the door is secured in the opening.

Preparation

• Marking 4 anchors on each side.
• Drilling with a 14 mm pen to a depth of 10 mm (space for the plug).
• We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (a place for fixing with an anchor).

After which the box is exposed and the concrete is drilled with a 10 mm drill for the anchor. When the box is supported by anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. Mounting points can be hidden by installing decorative plugs desired color, size (14 mm). Instead of anchors, you can use screws; this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. Using it you can straighten (tension) a crooked rail. The doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of plugs.

Tricks for installing door panels

Conclusion

There are many options for installing interior door frames, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made using any door installation method, but these methods may be affected by the opening in which the installation is taking place, taking into account the intensity and other factors.

1. Polyurethane foam

The foam can be either well-known construction brands or noname, in principle it does not matter, the main thing is that it is polyurethane foam. I have been using foams for many years various brands and the only difference I found was the price. If you do not have a professional gun (and when installing 3-5 doors there is no need for such a gun), then you need to buy foam with disposable nozzles inserted into the lid. Required amount foam depends on the gap between the door frame and the wall or partition and on the width of the door frame. As a rule, one 750 ml cylinder is sufficient to install one door.

2. Plumb or good level

3. Wedges

Usually wedges are made from available material: scraps wooden beam, old door frames, baseboards, platbands, etc. But in some cases, if the doorway is quite vertical and the gaps between the door frame (door frame, jamb) do not exceed 1.5-2 cm, then ready-made wedges can be used:

Such wedges are sold in sets of 20-100 pieces. in departments of shops and supermarkets dedicated to laminate flooring. To install 1 door you need to have (or make) from 8 to 32 wedges.

4. Spacers

Typically, spacers are made from old baseboards or trim. For this purpose, you can also buy a beam with a cross-section of 2.5-3x4-5 cm. I have never seen ready-made spacers for installing doors on sale, but I do not rule out this possibility. The number of spacers depends on the design and thickness of the door frame, as well as the thickness of the foam layer. If the door frame has a threshold and the thickness of the frame is 3 cm or more, then 1 spacer in the middle is enough. For boxes about 2 cm thick, it is advisable to install 3 spacers. For boxes with a thickness of 1.5 cm or less (and there are such), it is better to use wall or partition mounts.

5. Hammer or rubber mallet

6. Hacksaw, ax or chisel

For making wedges

Work technology:

Before installing the door, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with basic installation rules , but if this is not a secret for you, then let’s go:

1. After placing the bottom of the door frame (on the side where the awnings are) the desired height A wedge (1) is inserted between the door frame and the wall where the spacer will subsequently be installed.

2. From above between top bar Wedges (2) are driven into the door frame and doorway. This way the door frame is fixed in height:

The vertical position of the door frame in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the wall or partition is checked using a plumb line or level. If necessary, the door frame can be carefully knocked in the desired direction with a hammer using a piece of plywood or wooden block. If you have a rubber mallet, you can do without plywood or a block.

3. To align the door frame in a plane, parallel to the plane walls or partitions, a wedge (3) is selected. Verticality is controlled by a plumb line or level.

4. After the vertical strip of the box with canopies is set to the design position, it must be secured with a wedge (4).

5. After this, the door is placed on the awnings. At this stage, the accuracy of the door frame alignment is checked: the door opens at 30, 60 and 90 degrees. In all positions, after stopping by hand, the door should not continue to move. If the door begins to open or close on its own in one or more positions, check again that the frame is vertical in both planes and, if necessary, knock in the wedges. Very often, using a low-quality level leads to this result; change the level to a plumb line or try to set the level as accurately as possible.

6. In order to determine the height of the second vertical (lock) strip of the frame, you need to close the door and check the gap at the top between the door leaf and the frame. To set the frame to the desired height from below, between the door frame and the floor ( floor covering) a wedge (5) is driven in, and in order for the box to be securely fastened, a wedge (6) is driven in from above:

7. At closed door The position of the lock plate is checked. The door must be adjacent to the door frame along the entire perimeter; distortions are eliminated using a hammer or rubber mallet.

8. If the door frame does not have a threshold, then a spacer (7) is installed at the bottom between the door frame slats and a wedge (8) is driven in. It is better to install the spacer not in a quarter of the door frame, but next to it, so that the door with the installed spacers can close and the position of the door frame can be controlled. It is better to make spacers not exactly along the width of the door frame opening, but a little smaller, and when setting the spacers, use wedges or “slabs” - strips thin plywood(9). The spacer is not installed horizontally, but under small angle so that there is room for maneuver. If you need to increase the width of the opening, then the wedge is pulled out a little, and the spacer is lowered lower (closer to the horizontal position). If you need to reduce the width of the opening, then first the spacer is raised, and then the wedge is knocked down. The position of the locking strip of the door frame is controlled when the door is closed; here a plumb line or level is not needed, since the door leaf may be slightly skewed and the connection is visually more important door leaf to the lock plate along the entire length, and not the vertical position of the lock plate.

9. Next, depending on the thickness of the door frame and the gap between the door frame and the doorway, 1, 2 or 3 more spacers are installed. The principle of installing the spacers is the same, the main thing is that the wedges between the frame and the opening are as close as possible to the spacers. The further the wedges are from the spacers, the more the box can bend, especially if the thickness of the box is less than 2 cm. First, the spacer is inserted, and then it is supported by the wedges.

10. After all the spacers are set, the correct alignment of the door frame and the immobility of the door in 3 positions are checked again. The floor is covered with newspapers or plastic film and within 3-5 minutes the gap between the door frame and the opening in the wall or partition is blown with foam. The rules for working with polyurethane foam are usually quite clearly stated on the packaging.

Usually, installing a door takes 1-3 hours, but the dried foam will need to be cut off in a day, but if the thickness of the foam layer is less than 1.5 cm, then it can be cut off in 3-5 hours. If the wedges protrude beyond the surface of the box, they can either be pulled out with pliers or cut off with a chisel. It is advisable not to pull out the lower wedges on which the box stands, but to cut it down if necessary.

That's basically all, good luck.

This type of installation takes advantage of the adhesive properties of polyurethane foam, commonly known as one of the brands“macroflex”, and its ability to expand upon drying (more precisely, vulcanization), to fill all the cracks and voids. After inserting the fittings, the frame is assembled on the floor and, together with the door leaf, is installed on wedges in the opening. To prevent deformation of the frame, gaskets are inserted into the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. Next, the resulting cracks are filled with foam, and after it dries, the wedges are removed and the excess foam is cut off with a knife.
The advantages of this method include the fact that, when working with assembled block, the installer can easily assess its optimal location in the opening before its final fixation. And also the absence of holes for mounting screws in the box and the accuracy of its assembly.
The disadvantages of this method are the high risk of damage, because the craftsman often has to pull out the block and insert it again, for example, in order to remove unnecessary irregularities in the opening. This, of course, is not very convenient, given its dimensions and sometimes weight. In addition, it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to precisely, down to the millimeter, “set the gaps” between the frame and the door leaf. The spacers inserted into these places “tighten” the hinges, removing the existing play. After their removal, the canvas returns to its natural position, as a result, the gap between the end of the canvas and the box at the top decreases and increases at the bottom. During installation, it is difficult to check how freely the door opens and closes.
The expansion properties of foam can be another disadvantage of this method. In order not to lock yourself in the room, the gaskets that limit the deformation of the box are removed after the foam has dried superficially after two to three hours. But polyurethane foam often continues to expand, and this process can continue, albeit less intensely, for quite a long time (a day or more). This often leads to deformation of frames that have insufficient rigidity, for example, Spanish doors. And as already noted, it is enough to move each post just 1-2mm so that the door leaf begins to touch the surface of the frame or the door stops closing altogether. Some installers “foam” the door frame without the door leaf, installing special spacers instead, which eliminates the risk of getting hit foam on the canvas, and most importantly, you can leave the spacers until the foam dries completely. But it is not always possible to install them with the required accuracy; again, this also depends on the amount of play in the hinges and the rectangularity of the door leaf.
If installation is unsuccessful after the foam has dried and finished painting works The door is difficult to fix. There are some methods, but in most cases you have to go to the “through fastening”, i.e. you need to drill holes in the wall through the door frame - in fact, the method loses one of its advantages.
The only problem is “foam” in the standard one. Because due to the thin walls of the bathroom (4-5 cm), the contact surface is too small and it is impossible to do without fastening screws.

The composition of the foam can be one- or two-component. One-component foam already ready for use, it is produced in small-volume cylinders. When sprayed, the foam expands in volume by reacting with water in the air. This foam can expand in size up to 250%.

Two-component foam consists of a base and an activator. Before using the product, you need to remove the cylinder seal and mix the components. This type foam hardens quickly, does not shrink, has good adhesion, provides good performance heat and sound insulation. Due to its characteristics, such foam is usually used for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings, but not for installing doors.

How to properly foam metal entrance doors?

1. To seal the slopes after installing a metal door using household foam, you need to insert spacers between the structure frame and the wall (the use of professional foam does not require this).
2. The foam container should be shaken and the opening should be wetted with water. Moisturizing will improve the adhesion of the foam and allow it to harden quickly. You need to wet the opening lightly, without filling it with copious amounts of water.
3. The cylinder itself must be kept upside down. If the space between the box and the opening is 8-9 cm, fill the excess space with some material.
4. The consumption of polyurethane foam should be such as to fill a third of the volume of the gap. The foam will then increase in size.
5. Vertical cracks are filled from the bottom up to prevent foam from falling down. On complete drying need a day.
6. The spacers can be removed after a few hours. After the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and the foam itself is covered with paint or putty.

Installation of door blocks from the company "STROYSTALINVEST"

Order iron doors it is possible in the company "STROYSTALINVEST". Installation of metal doors in Moscow and the region is carried out by qualified specialists. In their work they use quality materials, including professional mounting foam. Properly installed entrance structure will serve its intended purpose for a long time, providing the premises with reliable protection.