The solid canvas has a large windage; the wind causes the sash to slam shut or open. To avoid injury or damage standing nearby machine, you need to install a gate stop. The stop will fix the sash in the desired position and will not allow it to close freely. Ready-made gate stoppers can be purchased at the store and made yourself.

Model on the gate

The mechanisms consist of the following elements:

• bracket with holes for fastening to the sash with self-tapping screws;
• pin;
• spring.

The bracket is a round plate bent in a U-shape. A 14 mm thick tube is inserted inside it. It is attached to the U-shaped plate with a bolt, which acts as an axis of rotation. The spring is fixed in the place where the bracket adheres to the door and is fixed on the stop tube. There is a rubber pad on the lower end of the pin. When not in use, the leg rises and is held in place by a spring. The stops are available in pin sizes of 350 mm and 250 mm. Latest model with short pin, door.

Spring locking mechanism

By analogy with ready-made models a homemade emphasis is made for . It rests on the ground at an angle, preventing the gate from closing from the wind.

Ready-made antiwinds have beautiful view, gilded finish. They can be installed in minutes. The purchase price is less than 500 rubles. Thanks to rubber pads, the legs do not scratch the floor and do not slide on the ground.

Homemade locking structures for garage doors look worse, but are stronger than store-bought ones and can withstand heavy loads. They can be welded to metal frames.

Garage door installation diagram

Store-bought stops, as well as most homemade stops, prevent the sash from closing. If the gate is not fully open, the wind can push it open.

The idea of ​​placing a stopper in the form of a deadbolt

To make it you will need a rod, a plate and a pipe.

1. Grind a rod with a diameter of 10–14 mm on one side to a cone. Bend it at a right angle at the top to create a handle and stop.
2. Weld two pipe rings to the plate at a distance of 100–120 mm from each other. These are guides for the rod.
3. Insert a rod into the rings.
4. Above the top ring, tighten the bolt or weld a piece of rolled stock so that when turned, the handle of the pin is fixed and does not allow it to rise.
5. Attach the plate to the canvas and insert the stopper into the rings. It is welded to the iron frame from the inside. TO wood paneling fastened with self-tapping screws.
6. Weld the cut pipe or nut to the frame in the upper position of the pin for similar fixation when closed.
7. Open the gate and mark the point where the rod rests on the ground.
8. Drill a hole in the ground according to the mark and drive a 300 mm long pipe.

Stopper diagram

The stopper should extend into the pipe by at least 150 mm; in areas with strong gusty winds, preferably 200–220 mm. Sliding gates can be fixed in two extreme positions. To do this, two pipes are driven under one rod. At the same time, in the closed position, the stopper additionally keeps the solid leaf of the sliding sash from tipping over due to gusts of wind.

The advantage of stoppers is the strong and reliable fixation of the gate. The model is simple. Even those who do not know how to weld can easily understand how to make a stopper or stop for swing gates with their own hands, securing everything with bolts. The stopper can also be used for fixation, like a stop, if the exit from the garage has a gate.

Swing gate lock

The disadvantage of stoppers is the ability to fix swing gates in only one position, or you have to hammer in several pipes.

The holes for the pin will constantly become clogged with dirt.

Stopper

An anti-wind stop, similar in design to a Chinese one, which can be freely purchased. The price for it in the store is 300–400 rubles. The design of folding stops for gates is made by hand.

These models cope well with gusts of wind.

Option for those who know welding.

1. IN profile pipe With a cross section of 20x20 mm and a length of 400 mm, we cut out the front and side walls to a height of 50 mm.
2. A Ø 6.5 mm hole is drilled in the remaining walls.
3. The second end of the pipe is welded end-to-end to the plate, perpendicular to it.
4. A rod with a diameter of 14 mm and a length of 400 mm is sharpened on one side to an acute angle. It will rest on the ground.
5. The same hole is drilled from the other end as on the profile.
6. The M6×50 bolt is threaded through the holes and tightened. The pin should rotate freely in the pipe.

Diagram of a conventional design

Holes are made in the plate for self-tapping screws for mounting on the canvas. When opening, the stopper slides along the ground and works as a reverse, resting against the ground if the wind tries to close the sash.

Assembled product

To prevent the stopper from interfering in the non-working position, it is pulled to the canvas with a spring. To do this, make a long plate, approximately 150 mm. welded at the bottom. One end of the spring is fixed at the top, the other - on a rod, approximately 80 mm below its axis of rotation in the pipe.

On unlined sashes, a similar folding stop can be made of a simplified type. Replace the pin with a strip of metal. Make a hole in its upper part and secure it to the bolt between the washers. The strip of metal is parallel to the mounting plate. A bolt for the spring is attached to the upper edge.

Squalls can easily move such a structure

The entire structure is mounted on the outer support of the frame frame with inside.

The design flaw in fixing the gate when closing. The wind can easily open the sash more, and the reverse stopper will not interfere with it.

Drawing of a conventional valve with a spring

Stops on carabiners

In 15 minutes you can install stops from cargo slings and carabiners. Before making the simplest design, you need to prepare for each sash:

The sash is secured with a carabiner

IN open position It is enough to hook the hooks of the sling onto the protrusion, and the sash is fixed in the open position.

The disadvantage of the design is that the fixation is not rigid, the sash will be swayed by the wind, and it must be pulled to the wall. In a garage cooperative, the partitions are narrower than the canvas; the gate will be located on a neighbor’s property and attached to someone else’s garage.

Latch for additional fixation

Locking hook

The simplest design for use in a single garage. It is attached to the sash and the wall using a hinge. A ring of wire stop is threaded into one of them. The hook on the other end of the wire clings to the second one.

Fastener components

The locking hook serves good limiter for the movement of the gate, a kind of latch. It holds firmly, but only in one position. You can make it quickly; 5 mm wire is suitable. The length is chosen according to the fact.

Beginners and experienced car owners all remember such a nuisance when suddenly an unexpected gust of wind slammed the gate at the most inopportune moment, when your favorite car was leaving the gate. What a disaster! After all, repairing even a small dent costs a pretty penny. What to do?
Some people keep pebbles in the garage and carefully prop up the treacherous gates, while others still hope for chance. I offer you a couple of tips about simple designs for securing open gates.

Metal gate support

1. Perhaps the easiest way to make a retainer is in the form of a support. You can take a metal rod and make a structure as shown in the picture. You can also use old ski poles for this purpose. To do this, cut off the piece you need. tip ski pole will rest against the ground, and at the other end drill holes for the turning axis. If you have galvanized sheet metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm, then you can use it to make brackets for the axle. You will need two more parts to fix the stop itself when you close the gate - these are the clamp holders.

Select two suitable bolts with a lock nut for the rotary axis. In order for the stop to reliably fix the gate, the angle of its entry into the ground should be approximately 45 degrees.

2. The second method is a mechanism for latching the open gate leaf using a metal spring mechanism. The photo clearly shows how to make it. You can place this mechanism either above the gate, mounting it into the gate wall, or below, mounting it into the ground. Such a hook will prevent the gate from collapsing unauthorizedly at the most inopportune moment.

Gate latch in the form of an ordinary hook

3. There is a third way - to fix the gate using an ordinary structure, but a very strong hook. A strip with holes is attached to

the top of the wall, and the hook to the gate leaf. The wind pressure will be restrained by the hook in such a way that the sash will be rigidly fixed in one position.

There are also designs that you can easily buy in a store if you don’t want to mess around and reinvent the wheel. By the way, it’s not a bad idea to construct it from available materials!

How to make garage door stops?

This is a question many garage owners ask themselves. These simple devices allow you to hold garage doors when strong wind, poor-quality installation of block racks and deviation when centering the canopies. How to make and install stops with your own hands different types gate - the article will tell you.

Types of garage doors

Before deciding on the type of stop, you need to get acquainted with the types of garage doors and their design features.

Gates can be:

• Sliding or sliding. In this case, the canvas is mounted on a cantilever beam and moves along it on rollers.
• Swing. These are the most popular and familiar designs for garage doors. They can open outward and very rarely inward.
• Lifting(cm. ). They can be:

1. lift-and-swivel. This design has a solid canvas that moves along guides;
2. lifting-guillotine. They provide excellent sealing and thermal insulation of the garage, but require extra space above the opening on the outside of the room;
3. sectional. They consist of several sections that connect when lifted and reach the ceiling.

• Rolled(cm. ). They consist of small sections up to 10 centimeters wide, which allows the fabric to be wound on a special drum located in a closed box placed under the ceiling outside or inside the garage.

Tip: Having become familiar with the main types of garage doors, you can choose perfect option, which will keep your car in good condition.

Features and types of rollers used for sliding gates

Each type of roller sliding gates ah is used in a specific node, carries different loads, performs completely different functions, but all elements are necessary for proper operation mechanism.

According to its purpose, the roller can be:

• End or rolling. The element is attached to the guide beam. Its purpose is to ensure smooth closing of the gate leaf in its final position. He rolls the flap into the catcher. After the part enters the lower catcher, it appears additional function, which allows you to eliminate sagging of the door leaf due to the precise fixation of its position with a roller.

Knurling rollers are an additional support device and are useful for different sash lengths. The roller rotates, along the entire length of the axis it is equipped with stiffening ribs and side stops, which allows you to distribute the load evenly and prevent deformation of the axis.

• Roller bracket. To make it, nylon or special rubber is used.

When installing the bracket, the fastening elements above the door leaf are mounted so that the rollers securely cover the upper edge of the door leaf, which allows them to be held strictly vertically at any stage of garage door operation. This helps make the movement of the movable sash softer and freer.

• Lower and upper catcher. These parts help fix the door leaf in the “closed” position. The lower one additionally takes on the load acting from the front end knurling roller.

The presence of rollers in these parts facilitates the correct placement of the sash in its intended place, even with fairly strong and sharp gusts of wind.

• Lateral swing limiter. Its purpose is to hold the gate leaf in the desired vertical position.

For heavy devices, reinforced stops with four rollers are used, mounted on a channel bent from solid sheet metal.

The design of the part is designed in such a way that the sash can easily pass through itself only if it deviates from the vertical. The option with two rollers is best used in cases where the weight of the supported sash is no more than 500 kilograms.

For sliding gates with the presence of forged, lattice and other similar parts (see), it is very convenient to use a roller, where it is attached to an L-shaped metal element.

Roller for limiters - enough complex design, in which:

1. the internal part consists of a bushing made of a fairly strong and resistant polymer that does not require lubrication.
2. Its outer surface is injection-molded polyurethane, which has excellent ductility and wear resistance.

When using metal elements, the noise level increases during gate operation.

• Roller carriages or support rollers. General form devices are shown in the photo.

This is the basis of any sliding mechanism. Fixed to the supporting or guide beam for sliding gates.

When installing them, you should Special attention pay attention to the accuracy of the position of both supports and correct distance between them, which affects the movement of the gate, its smoothness, the level of noise generated and correct functioning structures in general.

Tip: From the right choice Roller carriages for sliding gates depend, along with the quality of installation of the entire structure, on the durability and trouble-free operation of the gate.

Design features of the roller carriage:

• The basis of any carriage is a solid steel plate.
• They are fixed to it closed type reinforced bearings. Low-temperature materials are used to lubricate them.
• The trolley consists of eight rollers, they are placed along the slab in four pairs, which ensures self-adjustment of the structure at every moment of time. At least six carriage rollers are in contact with the guide.
• The system with rollers is fixed on the platform using special locking rings.
• Four to six technological holes are drilled on the platform, through which the structure is attached to the mortgage on the foundation.
• The carriages together with the guide bear the main load arising from total mass gate leaves. They ensure quiet and easy movement of the movable sash.

Parts price may be less when used polymer materials for the manufacture of structural elements. At high quality raw materials, it makes no sense to purchase more expensive metal products.

How to make parts yourself, instructions for installing them are clearly shown in the video.

Stops for swing gates

The purpose of such structures is to fix the valves when open gate. The stop should be installed before pouring begins before entering the garage of the concrete pad.

Options for stops can be:

• The structure consists of two metal plates connected by an axis of rotation. To remove the gate leaves from the stop, just press the bar with your foot without any effort. This emphasis is quite reliable, but it has two drawbacks:

1. you need a metal plate;
2. It is necessary to clean the place where the stop is installed in winter.

• For another option you need to purchase:

1. two nails, one of them must be strong enough to secure the stop;
2. a piece of steel wire with a diameter of approximately 8 millimeters, or a metal tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters.

The length of the stop is calculated by fitting it on site after installing the garage door leaves. The optimal angle to provide the greatest support strength should be approximately 50 degrees relative to the plane of the door or the ground.

You can bring such a stop into working condition and then remove it with a slight movement of your foot. No extra special care The device is not required for a year.

Using reliable garage door stops allows you to save them appearance and increase the service life of structures.

Swing gates it could be considered perfect design, if not for one significant drawback - the tendency to spontaneously close at the slightest gust of wind. The result is scratches and dents on your favorite car, and sometimes even injuries of varying severity on the body of their owner.

Allows you to avoid troubles simple devices– clamps for sashes, which are popularly called stops. Those who have not realized the need to use them can prop up swing gates with any object that comes to hand, or go to the store for a ready-made stopper. Or you can strain your own mind and make supports with your own hands.

Stoppers-constipations

The simplest and favorite option for home craftsmen. The stopper works about the same as the old fashioned one. window latch, but its dimensions are much more impressive. Such a device is not yet commercially produced, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. For this you will need:

• two steel tubes (one for each swing gate leaf) about 15 cm long and 1.6 cm in diameter;
• steel plates 10 cm wide and 15 cm long;
• pins that fit freely into the pipe, at least 20 cm long.

The entire process of making a retainer with your own hands consists of several stages:

1. Steel tubes are welded to the plates and then attached to the bottom of the gate. For doors sheathed in wood, this is done using self-tapping screws; the plate is simply welded to metal doors.
2. A lever is welded to the upper end of the pin at a right angle, playing the role of a handle, or simply a pin, preheated at gas burner, which bends and is inserted into the pipe.
3. Now we open the sash and find a place where it will be necessary to drive the reciprocal part of our “latch” to a depth of about 30 cm. We take into account that the pin must fit into it at least 10 cm. Do not forget that the gate leaf may be located slightly higher than the entrance level.
4. To prevent the pin from interfering with opening the swing gate, we weld a hook above the lock on which the handle of the pin will rest.

But keep in mind the disadvantages of this device. The counter pipe into which the pin should be lowered may be covered with snow in winter and will have to be dug out, which is not always time. You can do without a mating part, but in this case the ends of the pins must be pointed. Such a latch will, of course, be less reliable than the original version, but in extreme cases it will do. If not steel pipes required diameter, you can slightly modify the device. Replace it with two or three loops. The result is a simple but quite effective design.

Stops on carabiners

An original and cheap solution to the DIY problem. For implementation you will need (for each swing gate):

• cargo sling with a metal hook at the end;
• small carabiner;
• eye bolt with M8 thread.

The tools you need are a drill with an F7 drill, an M8 tap and a wrench for it, and any adhesive-sealant. If you have experience using the above tools, then installing the clamp will take no more than half an hour. The process will consist of the following steps:

1. Two holes are drilled on the inside of the frame at the same height, and threads are cut into them.
2. The eye bolts are coated with sealant and screwed into the prepared holes.
3. Carabiners are put on eye bolts, and cargo slings are threaded through them.

The hooks may be caught on the adjacent garage door. But nothing prevents you from using a bracket attached to a fence post or wall for these purposes. Can be attached to any nearby robust construction and get a cheap and reliable stop, devoid of the disadvantages of a locking lock. Unfortunately, the appearance of this device is not very attractive, which many may consider a significant disadvantage.

Hook retainer for aesthetes

A very simple device, but it does its job perfectly. It has a respectable appearance and even allows you to fix swing gate leaves in two or more positions. For manufacturing you need (for both doors):

• metal corners 50 mm long, 80 cm and 15 cm;
• steel rod with a cross-sectional diameter of 12 mm, approximately 1.2 meters long;
• welding machine, self-tapping screws, drill, vice.

Now let’s do a few simple steps:

1. In the larger corner, which will act as a hinge, three holes are drilled on one side for fastening to the gate frame. On the other side, there are two holes at the edges, of such a diameter that the end of a steel rod can fit freely into them.
2. Now the most difficult part is making the hook. One side of the heated steel rod is bent into a ring (don't forget to leave a gap so that the hook can be put on the canopy!). The other side is given a U-shape. It's difficult, but quite possible.
3. Now a canopy is made from a smaller corner, for which two holes are drilled in it on one side for fastening to the sash, and in the middle of the other side - one hole for fixing the hook.
4. We fix the corners so that the larger one is on the gate frame and the smaller one is on the leaf. You can use self-tapping screws for these purposes (for wooden gates) or welding (for metal). We put the hook on the canopy and finally bend the ring.

That's all, the length of the hook and the location of the holes will have to be calculated empirically, experimenting with gate leaves. The result is a simple but reliable DIY stop. It will allow you to open the gate completely or leave the swing gate ajar.

Stopper

A simple device that can be used by anyone whose gate is lined with wood. To make it yourself you will need wooden block and a window hinge. One end of the loop is rigidly fixed to the end of the bar, the other is movably attached to the gate leaf.

You can also make a metal analogue of this device, consisting of a pipe movably attached to the sash. In the non-working position, the pipe rises upward and is held in place by a rope loop. To fix the gate, just lower the pipe. To increase the stop area, the top of the pipe should be cut at an angle.

Latch-trap with pawl and spring

A more complex device, which has the advantage that it allows the gate to be locked automatically. It consists:

The pipe with the dog is attached at the required distance from the wall. The bracket is attached to the gate leaf. The principle of operation is quite simple. When the sash moves, the bracket attached to it lifts the pawl, which then lowers and securely fixes the sash.

A similar device can be placed at the bottom of the gate, but you will have to equip it with a spring. It will return the dog to a horizontal position. To close the gate later, simply lower the pawl with your foot.

Latch-trap without spring

To make it, you will need a thick steel plate, which needs to be bent on one side and a handle welded to the curved end. A steel rod is welded to the bottom of the plate, which is subsequently inserted into brackets fixedly fixed to the ground.

Important condition! For the stop to work correctly, it is necessary that the flat part of the plate be much longer, and therefore heavier, than the curved section. Then the gate leaf, when moving with its mass, will lower the curved end of the plate. Afterwards, the remaining flat part will lower under its own weight, lift the curved end with the handle and fix the gate. To close the swing gate, simply lower the handle down.

The described clamps are not all options for do-it-yourself wind stoppers for swing gates. Perhaps the devices described will serve as an impetus for your imagination, and you will come up with your own original way solving the problem. And we can only wish good luck to the master!