Today, in a fishing store, we can purchase almost everything we want if we have stock. However, you can do a lot of this yourself, and the quality will be in no way inferior, and with good effort it will even be superior. Some people prefer to make homemade gear to save money, while others enjoy it. In today's article we will gain some knowledge in terms of making sinkers and jig heads. Let's get started!

Let's remember our childhood.

I think that everyone has something to remember about their childhood, where we wandered and what we did. We spent days wandering around abandoned garages, breaking everything we could get our hands on :). Having found an abandoned battery, we definitely had to turn it around, because there was lead in it. Having obtained lead, we began to make various molds for casting; we usually looked for clay, but we also made it in ordinary soil. If you haven’t done this, then it’s okay, we’ll do it now :). And to those who did it, congratulations to you in a simpler way :), now we will make sinkers, jig heads, and cheburashkas from lead. Someone will say: “Why would I waste my time making this cheap thing,” but someone likes it, and this article is designed specifically for these people. By making, for example, one Cheburashka you can save about 10-15 rubles (depending on prices in your city).

Casting mold.

Casting molds can be open type, in this case, lead is simply poured into it from above. The form can also be made of two halves; it is needed for more complex forms. The easiest way to make an open form is to take a piece of foil, or you can even take plain paper. We make a funnel out of the material, insert a wire (the future eye), squeeze it all at the top of the cone and fill it. In this way, you can make a sinker-gonus, as well as a carrot for winter fishing, if instead of an eye you stick a tee hook there. To make a flat-shaped sinker, you can take a regular spoon. Of course, this is not beautiful and primitive, so we move on :).
Good, beautiful, voluminous trinkets can only be cast in a mold consisting of two halves. The alloy is poured into it through special holes (maybe you remember there used to be, and maybe there still is, molds for making sugar candies), and special vents are made to remove air from the workpiece. These types of molds can be made from aluminum, steel, heat-resistant silicone, gypsum and various polymers.

Plaster mold.

In order to make a simple mold from plaster or alabaster, we will need a ready-made product, a copy of which we want to make. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a jig head or a Cheburashka, or maybe a more complex sinker. First, we take some kind of cardboard box, slightly larger in size than the part being manufactured. We mix the gypsum solution and fill our box halfway with it, making sure that the plaster lies tightly without air. We wait a couple of minutes for the solution to begin to thicken. When the solution has become somewhat harsh, we press our finished product, which we prepared in advance, into it exactly halfway (it is recommended to lubricate the product with any oil before doing this). We all take this thing to the battery and wait until it dries (about an hour). Has it dried out? We take a drill and carefully make 3-4 holes in the mold, but not in the place where there is a recess from the workpiece, but in a free one (when we make the second half of the mold, it will turn out to have bumps that will then fall into the holes :)). We need them in order to then accurately combine the two halves of the form. Now we need to lubricate this entire structure on top with silicone from a can, which is sold in car dealerships. Now fill the plaster again from top to bottom, but now it is advisable to make it thinner. That's almost all, we just have to wait until it all dries completely (we wait about a day). Once the mold has dried, tear open the box and separate the mold. Having separated the mold, we make a hole for pouring lead, and on the other side a small one for air to escape. The hole can be easily made with a knife, since plaster lends itself easily to this. In order to get more beautiful and quality products, Can building gypsum replace it with jewelry (it is much more expensive). Thanks to this mold, you can easily make about 100 products. To extend the life of the mold, you can add a little sugar to the plaster. And to make a higher quality and more durable form, it needs to be made from other materials.

Polymer mold.

For the manufacture of such a form, the so-called “ cold welding" But not all, you need to buy one that contains metal fillers, only they can withstand high temperature. The names of such composites often contain words such as “megatitanium” and “superbronze”. Before purchasing, look on the packaging or in the instructions for what temperature this miracle of modern chemistry can withstand :). If the number is more than 380, then this is normal for the wave, since lead in the molten state has a temperature of 33-350 degrees. Having bought welding, we will see a kind of sausage resembling a g... :). Manufacturers often recommend kneading it with wet hands, but you should not do this, since the moisture that gets into the polymer will spoil the castings for a long time due to boiling. You need to wear gloves when mixing all this. Take half the sausage and mix thoroughly, after 10-15 minutes the composition will quickly harden (usually this is accompanied by heating). Before it begins to harden, we fill our box halfway in the same way as with plaster, and press the workpiece into it in the same way (do not forget to lubricate it with oil or silicone). After the workpiece has completely hardened (see the instructions for the material for the time), the surface is also lubricated with oil and they begin to knead the second half of the sausage. Fill the box with the other half on top and then dry (polymerize). Don't forget to make holes for centering as in the example with the plaster blank. After drying, make a hole for filling and air escape. Often, the first pours are accompanied by the release of smoke and bubbling of the melt. We send them to be melted down. After several such fills, everything will return to normal, and the form can be safely used. This form, of course, does not last forever, but it lives much longer than plaster.

Silicone molds.

If you want to make high-quality castings, then you should make a mold from silicone. But there will be one caveat: it is only suitable for tin and tin alloys, since they have an acceptable melt temperature. It definitely won’t withstand lead, even if you use silicone for casting molds. Fishermen most often make winter jigs or balancers from tin. For many, these are very popular items. In order to make a mold from silicone, we can use both two-component compositions, that is, those that contain silicone and a hardener separately, and one-component ready-made silicone. But ordinary silicone will not suit us; we need high-temperature silicone, for example, the kind that is used for lithium molds or for furnace work (they seal pipes with it).
Making a silicone mold differs somewhat from plaster and composite molds. Since silicones have very high adhesion, we need to protect the model form from sticking. The easiest way is to rub it with pencil graphite. Then the model with which we take the cast must be coated thin layer silicone, dry it and coat it again. We do this several times until we reach silicone walls 2-3 centimeters thick around the model. When the mold is completely dry, it is cut into two halves (a stationery knife will help you), and the model is removed. A hole is cut in the mold for pouring tin and for air outlet (it is better to do it in the very top point forms). All the form is ready. We can start manufacturing the product.

Metal form.

Perhaps the longest-living forms are those made of metal. Most often the metal used is aluminum. It is, of course, possible to make them yourself, but it is best to buy them in a store, unless of course you have a turner friend who will turn it for you in exchange for drinking beer in the evening. Before using the aluminum mold, it must be warmed up. Otherwise, the melt is poured into the mold, it may not fill all the cavities well and you will end up with many defective products. These forms are the most durable. And thanks to them, products can be manufactured for a very, very long time. If you plan to make many products, then it is best to take care of making just such a shape.

Set of tools.

In order to start casting products, we do not need many tools. Side cutters - needed for biting off the skin of olives; round nose pliers - they are very convenient for making ears for the so-called “Cheburashkas”; platter - for processing the product. We also need a tank in which we will melt lead (tin), you can use a regular tin can, and the best option Turk (yes, yes! The one in which coffee is brewed), just keep in mind that its handle should not be soldered, otherwise it will fall off.

Using lead from a battery is very harmful and not practical; removing it is not as fast as it seems. The easiest way is to buy it at some metal depot where they accept batteries. Yes, it will not be cheap, but it does not require additional cleaning. If you make products, for example, in the garage, then it is quite possible to turn around the old battery. If you have friends at a tire shop, you can negotiate with them and purchase lead from them from old weights for balancing wheels. Stainless steel paper clips are very suitable as a material for the eyes.

Product manufacturing process.

It is best to manufacture products at outdoors, in the country or in the garage. In order to avoid burns, it is necessary to use protective gloves and be very careful when working with melts.

It’s better to prepare ears for Cheburashkas in advance

Before you start making products, if you are using metal molds, they need to be warmed up. Also, do not overheat the melt. In everyday life there are special gas ovens with thermostats for this purpose, but you can completely do without them. Before pouring, pre-prepared eyes, hooks or swivels are placed into the mold, the halves of the mold are connected and the melt is poured. It is separated only after the melt has completely solidified. It is best to remove flash and process the product after it has completely cooled.
This concludes the article. We hope that it will help you enjoy the manufacturing process itself, and you will also save money on beer :) which will be drunk during manufacturing :).

Do-it-yourself fishing sinkers are created from lead using casting; for this you do not need to have blacksmithing skills or spend a lot of money. All you need for the job are materials for casting molds and lead. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when casting; you need to protect your respiratory tract, because lead is not excreted from the body and has a detrimental effect on humans.

To make a primitive disposable form, we will need thick paper, cardboard, any utensils and sand will do.

Step-by-step production:

• roll the prepared paper into a cone and cut off the sharp end, thread wire or rings into the hole for fastening;
• Place a paper bag in the center of the dish and fill it with sand around it.

Molten lead is poured into the resulting mold. When casting fishing weights, the paper will burn, but by this time the lead will have already hardened. The resulting result remains to be cleaned, after which the sinker can be used immediately.

Making sinkers at home does not require much effort, but not everyone can afford a metal mold for casting, so we will use sealant.

This option is good because the sealant mold is made quite easily and quickly and allows you to cast many different sinkers for fishing:

1. We fill the box with sealant, while trying to prevent the formation of bubbles.
2. Before immersing in the box, the sinker must be treated with wax.
3. Using a wire, lower the sinker into the solution without touching the walls. You need to wait for the sealant to completely harden without removing the weight.
4. After the solution has completely hardened, you need to cut a hole and remove the weight. The form is ready, you can start making new weights.
5. Pour molten lead into the resulting mold. When using pure lead, a sealant mold can withstand about 10 castings; using a typographic alloy will increase the service life of the mold several times .

“I cast the sinkers from a printing alloy, it has a melting point of about 100 degrees - this is significantly lower than that of ordinary lead. In addition to the main hole in the sealant, I made one small hole for air, this improved the quality of production,” writes an experienced person who makes fishing sinkers with his own hands.

There are no difficulties in making such forms and castings of sinkers. Everyone has the materials needed for this in their home, and if they are not available, they can be purchased at any time. affordable prices and make fishing weights.

Let's start making molds and casting weights:

1. Diluted gypsum powder is poured into the square formwork.
2. The sinker blank, attached to a wire, is installed in the center of the container in the not yet hardened plaster. We make holes in different parts blanks.
3. Before you pour upper layer Be sure to coat the bottom layer with the sinker with liquid soap - this will prevent the workpieces from sticking together.
4. After applying the top layer, lightly tap the workpiece to distribute the solution evenly.
5. The gypsum has frozen, you can disassemble the formwork and open the workpiece.
6. Make holes in the upper part: one for sinker castings, the other for oxygen supply. The workpiece is ready for use.
7. Next, we proceed similarly to the options described above: insert the wire into the workpiece and pour molten lead into the hole made.

Before fishing using the resulting sinkers, it is necessary to finalize them, make line clamps, drill holes and clean the connecting points. After processing, you will have excellent sinkers in your hands that you can take fishing.

By casting lead weights, you will not waste your money on tackle that you can make yourself. After the first work, the question of how to make a sinker for fishing will be resolved independently.

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DIY sinkers

Making homemade weights is not only useful, but also a very simple procedure. Weights are needed mainly by bottom fishers and spinning fishermen for rigs with retractable mounting. Even a novice angler can master this technique. The main thing is to have lead, create a fire source and find suitable utensils. In this article we will learn how to make fishing sinkers, where to get lead and what fire sources are best.

Where can I get lead?

Do-it-yourself fishing sinkers are poured from any lead that you have on hand. The easiest way to obtain lead is to go to a tire shop and buy used balance weights. Such lead will cost much less than if you buy sheet lead. you can buy required quantity kilograms and get from them a large number of weights for various purposes. The only thing to consider is the steel pieces molded into the middle of some of the weights. It is advisable to remove them during melting. But you usually don’t come across many such sinkers. The weights can be melted all together without sorting them by density.

The second way to extract lead is from old batteries. It is better to find points where they accept old batteries and buy them at a reasonable price. This is a more complicated method, since you will have to disassemble the batteries to remove the lead.

The third way to get lead out of cable braids. It is made of sheet lead with a thickness of 1, 1.5 and 2 mm. If you know any electricians, ask if they can get this braid. From such lead you can not only cast weights, but also cut strips for feeder feeders.

The most expensive way is to buy lead. It is sold in sheets and ingots. Better, of course, is sheet metal, but its size is very large. In such cases, fishermen unite and buy one sheet together.

You can also make weights with your own hands from old weights, which almost every angler probably has.

One thing is for sure: for casting I used my own weights hands will do absolutely any lead. It doesn't matter if it has impurities, or how dense or soft it is. Our task is weights for bottom fishing.

We pour out a sinker for a donkey with a rubber shock absorber

Let's first look at how to make fishing weights for elastic bands. We will perform this procedure outside. We will need a fire or a gas burner with a spray can. In the first case, it takes more time to melt lead, but there is no need for equipment or extra costs.

Melting lead using gas burner takes just a few minutes, but requires a can of gas.

We also need a tablespoon, a lead tin and a little patience. We will dump the load in the ground. We find a damp piece of land and press a hole with a spoon to make a boat like this. Next, take a stick and insert it into one of the ends of the resulting form. Then we wait for the lead to melt.

After it becomes liquid, pour it into the resulting recess. We wait until it cools down a little, after which we take out the stick. The result will be a load weighing about 300-350 grams. It will lie well on the bottom and is easy to cast onto long distance. We inserted a stick to create a hole in the weight.

You can pour several pieces at once if you can get a fire source with a high temperature.

Many fishermen ask the question: “How to make fishing sinkers for elastic bands of light weight, so that they stick well to the bottom and are not carried away by the current. Making such weights is quite simple. You need to take 3-4 pieces of wire 10 cm long and bend them into staples. Then place it in the recess. After pouring you will get a spider like this. After casting, the weight will lie in one place, and these pieces of wire will hold it. The weight of the cargo in this case may not exceed 150 grams.

Pour out the cone weights

Donkers and spinning fishermen often use hand-made conical weights. The former are used because they fly far and accurately, while spinners use them in spaced rigs. Making these weights yourself is very easy. You don't even need forms. We will need hard paper, with which we will make cones in the form of small bags.

We also need thin and stiff wire. From it we will make eyelets through which the weights will be attached to the main fishing line.

We will pour the sinkers with our own hands in exactly the same way as last time. Instead of a gas burner, you can use a portable one with two burners. It will be possible to pour in two containers to make the process faster. In this case, place the jars on the stove at intervals of 5 minutes. The lead has melted in one, pour it straight into the molds. After this operation, the lead should melt in the second container.

We insert wire staples into the paper molds so that the eye sticks out from the top of the cone. We immerse the molds in the ground so that they take a vertical position. We select the size of the molds experimentally. We estimate by eye what kind of weight we need. As a standard, you can take a 35 gram weight and look at it. It will be enough to pour out the first batch of sinkers for fishing with your own hands. We will use the resulting weights as samples when we make molds for the next batches.

The pouring process is identical to the previous one. You can use an unnecessary metal mug as a container for lead. It is convenient to take it by the handle and pour lead from it. To avoid burning your fingers, it is better to wear gloves on your palms. After pouring, you should wait a little and remove the weights from the molds. We just tear off the paper without sparing it, since initially the molds are disposable.

Pour out flat sinkers for donks

In bottom fishing, flat weights are often used. As a rule, they have an oval shape. Such sinkers lie well on the bottom even when fishing in strong currents. How to make such sinkers for fishing? To do this, cut out an oval piece 4 cm long and 2 cm wide from elastic 3 mm thick. You can also make heavier weights. For this we will use larger workpieces

Next, we make 7-8 dents in the ground, as in the previous case, when we poured out a large sinker for the elastic band. We will be making two types of weights. One type is sliding, and the second is with an eye. To pour the sliding weights, cut thin wire into pieces that are 1 cm longer than the length of the recesses. Insert the wire into these recesses.

To obtain weights with eyes, we will do exactly the same as when pouring cone weights. Only the ear this time will peek out from the recess. If necessary, you can drill holes on the edge of the sinkers

Carefully pour the molten lead into containers and wait about 5 minutes. After this, you can carefully collect them with a spoon.

Pour fishing weights into molds

To obtain calibrated weights of various shapes and weights, metal molds of various types are used.

Let's look at how to cast weights in a metal mold of this type:

The form consists of two halves. After pouring, you should get sinkers weighing 130 grams with swivels.

In addition to lead, we will need two clamps for clamping forms, swivels and files with cutters for removing roughness from the resulting weights. Before casting the weights, lubricate all molds with machine lubricant so that the weights can be easily removed after pouring.

First, we insert the swivels into the four sinker molds.

Then we press the halves together with clamps.

Next, set to heat the lead in a suitable container. This mold has large enough sprues, so there won't be any problems with casting. That part of the lead that remains near the sprues is collected and used in the next pour.

Install on flat surface form. When the lead melts, we begin to pour:

We clamp the container in which the lead is melted with pliers, and begin to carefully pour the lead into the holes.

After pouring, wait a few minutes and disassemble the mold. The result should be ribbed weights like this:

It needs to be slightly processed with a file. Remove the section from the sprue side. Large growths can be bitten off with nippers, after which the area can be treated with a file. As a result, you can make a very large number of sinkers.

They can be used in feeder fishing to break through the bottom. Such heavy sinkers are useful for bottom fishers when fishing in strong currents. They fly far and hold the bottom well.

conclusions

We have reviewed the most simple ways casting sinkers. You can make weights even if you don't have molds. In the presence of metal molds you can cast weights to order and make money from it. The main thing in this process is to find lead and a well-ventilated place. Remember that in indoors Casting lead is harmful.

There are also ways to cast weights in plaster and wooden forms. But for this you also need to make forms, which only complicates the task. And the period of their use is not very long. It is important to understand that weights are consumables. Therefore, you should not spend a lot of time on this process, trying to get products of perfectly correct shapes.

In the article you will get acquainted with the main types, as well as tactics for using them.

Study everything to become a real fisherman and learn how to make the right choice.

A sinker is an integral part of almost any fishing tackle that is used to cast and hold bait at the required depth. Therefore, the question of how to make a fishing sinker yourself sooner or later arises before any fisherman.

In ancient times, fishermen used ceramic or stone weights. Now lead is used to make fishing sinkers - as the heaviest of metals (gold and platinum are not taken into account). Specific gravity lead 11.3 g/cm³. This is one and a half times heavier than iron and four times heavier than stone.

In addition, lead has other qualities necessary for the manufacture of fishing sinkers:

- firstly, lead is a low-melting metal (melting point 327°C), which allows you to melt it at home - on a gas, electric or wood-burning stove.

- secondly, lead is a non-ferrous metal and it practically does not corrode.

- thirdly, lead is a soft metal, which makes it easy to produce machining at home.

In ancient and medieval times, lead was used to make water pipes and dishes, Our ancestors did not know that lead is poison. This is well known today, so when using lead fishing weights there is no need to use your teeth as cutters or pliers.

Depending on the conditions of use, fishing sinkers may have various shapes, designs and weight. The weight of sinkers ranges from hundredths of a gram to many kilograms.

I will not go into the specifics of sinkers associated with specific gear and application features. The main task is to show that any angler can make almost any sinker at home, without using industrial equipment. What is needed for this?

First, you need lead. The main sources of its extraction are old batteries (car, computer and others) and communication cables shielded with lead.

Secondly, you need a crucible - a container for melting lead. As a crucible, I use a metal tin can with a capacity of 350 ml. It is better to take flat jars rather than tall ones. Using pliers, you need to form a “spout” on the can for a more accurate pour. This jar contains about 4 kg of molten lead. The jar of molten lead is removed from the burner using pliers with plastic handles.

Thirdly, you need a casting mold - a container into which molten lead will be poured and, solidifying in it, will give the final shape to the sinker. You will also need regular plumbing tools.

You can use, for example, spoons as a form. A sinker cast in a teaspoon will weigh about 50 grams, in a dessert spoon about 100 grams, and in a tablespoon about 150 grams. True, for damaging spoons you can get your wife in the neck.

You can take any object and press it into the ground or sand. True, a sinker cast in this form will not have a very presentable appearance.

I will talk about the two materials from which it is easiest to make an injection mold for casting lead fishing sinkers - cardboard and wood. The easiest way to make a sinker for bottom tackle is to cast it in a matchbox. Despite all its apparent fragility, the matchbox can withstand a couple of castings. If you wet it and wipe it dry, it will withstand more filling cycles.

Almost all fishing sinkers can be divided into two groups. The first group is sliding weights, which slide freely along the fishing line. For this purpose, a through longitudinal hole is used. The second group is tightly secured sinkers. Such sinkers are attached to a specific place on the rig. For fastening, such sinkers have either a hole or a wire eye. It is better to make a wire eyelet from stainless wire using round nose pliers and pliers.

Mold for casting a fishing sinker,
made from a matchbox

The photo shows injection molds made from a matchbox. On the left is for a sinker with a blind mount, and on the right is for a sliding sinker. To form a longitudinal hole, a gypsy needle is used, which, after the sinker has cooled, is “twisted” out of it using pliers.

Can be made from cardboard disposable forms for casting flat weights of a different configuration.

More durable forms can be made from wood.

Prefabricated wooden mold for casting sinkers

The photo shows a prefabricated wooden mold (of four parts) and a sinker cast in it. To make an injection mold, it is better to take wood species such as poplar or linden. They are easy to process and do not chip. The form is assembled using wood screws.

The mold for casting sinkers is assembled using self-tapping screws

Sinker cast in a wooden mold

If you need to make a voluminous sinker, you can’t do without a split mold, which is also easy to make at home. You can use a ready-made sinker as a model. If there is no sinker, you need to make a model of it. This is best done using a thin sharp knife made from a piece of soap, paraffin or wax. Then by finished model you need to make an injection mold. This is done like this:

— take a small box (you can, for example, a disposable plastic food container);

— construction plaster (alabaster) is diluted and half filled into the box;

— a thin film from the small one is placed on top (as a separating material) plastic bag, two “pins” are stuck in - they will serve as guides when connecting the halves of the form;

— the sinker model is pressed in halfway (accuracy is important here, otherwise the shape will not be understood later);

- the form is filled to the top with alabaster solution (the main thing here is not to rush, so that there are no cavities or cavities in the form);

- when the mold hardens, the two halves are separated, the model is removed, the film is torn off and thrown away, the dots are left in one half of the mold;

- if the model did not have a sprue, it is made (for example, using a drill). The casting channel is made thin (depending on the size of the sinker) at the sinker, where it will subsequently be bitten off, and wide, funnel-shaped at the top. This is necessary to store molten lead during cooling and shrinkage;

- if there are shells left on the body of the mold, they must be wiped away with a liquid solution of alabaster. After completely dry The form must be sanded with sandpaper, soaked in Vaseline oil, and dried.

Two Piece Plaster Casting Mold for Fishing Sinkers

Plaster mold for sinkers with sprue

Before pouring, both halves of the mold are connected and compressed (for example, with a clamp).

Whatever the mold for casting fishing sinkers is made from at home, defects are inevitable on the finished product. First of all, this is flash - excess metal during casting. They are removed using a file or a hard, sharp knife (lead can be easily scraped).

Here is the ABC of making fishing sinkers with your own hands.

Most anglers, when equipping their fishing rods, are faced with the need to load the bait. Both bottom fishers and spinners have to weigh down their rigs or artificial fish so that they quickly reach the bottom or fly far. Sometimes during a fishing trip you can leave your entire arsenal of fishing weights in a catchable but snagged area of ​​the reservoir. Some amateurs are not allowed financial opportunities constantly replenish lead stocks, and other fishermen find it difficult to get to specialized stores. In such cases, molds for casting sinkers will come to the rescue. Due to the low melting point of lead and its availability, the necessary cargo can be cast directly on the shore of the reservoir. What types of weights are there?

Molds for casting from different materials

Fishermen make lead sinkers with equal success with their own hands, using factory-made or homemade molds. Basically, most designs differ in the material of manufacture. The most commonly used materials are plaster, wood, aluminum or steel.

• Disposable forms can even be made from thick paper. Many novice anglers know how to make a lead sinker for bottom fishing using a tablespoon. It is enough to pour molten lead into the concave part of a tablespoon to get a neat workpiece. All that remains is to make a hole, and the load can be installed on the donk.
• Simplest form for casting, the sinker can be made from a piece wooden slats 5-10 mm thick. Using a hacksaw and a knife, you need to make two halves of the future shape in the form of an oval or diamond. Now all that remains is to place both halves on a flat wooden or metal surface and secure them with clamps or simple stands. In the case of a sliding load, it is necessary to place a steel wire with a thickness of 0.8-1.0 mm inside. You can pour lead.
• Often fishermen are faced with the problem of how to make a mold for lead sinkers according to an existing sample. For example, every spinner should have a popular type of jig head called “Cheburashka”. And it’s not difficult to make an eared sinker based on a store sample if you make a plaster mold. To pour the creamy solution, you can use 2 ordinary matchboxes. First, one box is filled with the dough-like mass, after which up to half of the “Cheburashka” is immersed in plaster.

• As soon as the material dries, a similar operation should be done with the second part of the mold. When the plaster dries in it, all that remains is to combine the two halves, make a hole for pouring and a side hole for air to escape. In opposite corners of the matchboxes, through holes are made for wire pins or a nail. After such fixation, the halves will not move, maintaining an even spherical figure.
• The most durable sinker molds are made from aluminum or steel. But you won’t be able to make it well on your own. The help of experienced millers and mechanics will be required. Let's look at the technology for making a steel mold for your favorite Cheburashka.
  1. First of all, you will need 2 metal bars with a thickness of 20-25 mm. The width and length depend on the size of the future load and the number of simultaneously cast products. The joining surfaces must be made even and smooth.
  2. Hemispheres can be made using special spherical burrs. After this, it is important to accurately align both halves, for which you can use ball bearings.
  3. Next on drilling machine holes are made for the pins, bleeders and filler necks. Inside one of the halves it is necessary to make recesses for the wire ears.

Sinker casting process

When a mold for casting sinkers finally appeared, questions related to pouring lead appeared. The ease of making a weight depends to some extent on the quality of the mold. But if you know some of the nuances of working with lead, then everything will work out with both a homemade and a Chinese form, as well as with a product from the Spinmag company.

Before you begin heating lead, there are a few preparatory steps you need to take. If there are wire elements, it is necessary to cut the required section, bend it and carefully place it in the mold. Internal surfaces the molds into which the molten lead will fall must be lubricated. Then it will be easier to remove the cooled sinker.

Tested in practice! The best lubricant is lard. It is enough to rub a piece of sandpaper over all the depressions to make it easier to get out. finished product from the form.

All that remains is to assemble the structure and secure it with special clamps, bolts or pins.

• Lead can be smelted at any time tin can. Using pliers, you can make a narrowed part (beak) to obtain a thin stream of melt. To make it convenient to put a kind of ladle on the fire and remove it from it, it is better to make a bend in the side at the top of the jar.
• Many anglers use battery lead. Melting it at home is dangerous and harmful. Therefore, it is first necessary to make the first melt on the street, pouring a clean fraction, for example, into a spoon. And you can work with pure lead in the kitchen by first turning on the hood. You can also immediately use weights removed from fishing nets.
• If a fisherman has few forms, but wants to make a lot of weights with different weights, then you can experiment a little by adding tin to the lead. These two metals melt well and mix with each other. And the resulting sinkers will be lighter than those made from pure lead.
• When the metal melts in the ladle, you need to wait a little longer for the temperature of the melt to increase. Then the metal will not harden during the casting process.
• It is important to pour hot lead evenly, without stopping. Otherwise, there may be formations inside air gaps and unevenness.

Attention! You can disassemble the mold only after it has completely cooled. This primarily applies to metal structures.

• Lead is soft material. Therefore, flash and burrs can be cut off with a regular knife. Excess metal, which inevitably forms in the filler holes, is removed with wire cutters. A fine file will give the surface a smooth appearance.

Many anglers note that brand new sinkers work worse than tarnished similar models. Therefore, home-made products can first be treated in vinegar (24 hours). Then lower the sinkers into a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for a day.

Today, fishermen can purchase ready-made forms in specialized stores or make them with their own hands. Using these devices correctly, you can get a rich arsenal of fishing sinkers and heads.