Dovetail is a type of tenon joint in wood used in carpentry and construction. The alternating protrusions and recesses of each of the connected parts have a trapezoidal shape, reminiscent of the tail of a swallow.

Fastening this method is considered the most reliable, which explains its prevalence and popularity over many centuries. We have prepared for you a selection of pictures with examples of using the connection " dovetail» in various designs.

Dovetails are commonly used to connect parts of solid wood drawers. Thus, it can be safely considered a sign High Quality specific subject furniture.

On the surface of this table you can see an expressive dovetail pattern. Furniture designers prefer not to hide this feature, as it gives an unambiguous idea about the material and build quality of the product.

The box connection is very similar to the dovetail, with the only difference being that its elements are rectangular rather than trapezoidal.

The structural elements of this modern house have huge grooves and tenons along the edges, providing an example of the use of dovetails in construction.

The beams of this house are also connected to each other using a dovetail.

The tenons and dovetails provide counter-resistance, making this joint extremely strong whether adhesive was used or not. Drawers assembled in this way can be used intensively for many years.

It is believed that the dovetail lock has maritime roots; the dovetail was used to secure ships with a wooden hull. This connection turned out to be the most resistant to wet wood and multidirectional loads caused by rough seas. The main advantage of the technology is reliable docking wooden parts Without the use of additional fasteners, the reliability of fastening is ensured by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. The tools of ship carpenters included a special saw called a “dovetail.”

Traditionally in Rus', the crowns of a log house were placed “in a bowl”; such coupling was cut out with an ax. With the advent of good carpentry tools, the log house began to be laid “in the paw”, the connection had a rectangular tenon. A further improvement to this lock was the use of a dovetail tenon with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for fastening beams has become the main one in industrial housing construction; standard sizes and connection features are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses industrial production The quality is not inferior to Finnish samples.

The standard establishes the types carpentry connection in dovetail:

Connection "in the paw";
Deaf “frying pan”;
Open “frying pan”;
Fastening with a trapezoidal key.

A distinctive feature of these types of fastenings is the tongue-and-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fastening the timber “into the paw” is the easiest way to build a log house; reliable grip is ensured by a trapezoidal tenon, which is cut out at the end of each row of the crown. A correctly made and assembled lock reliably fixes the crowns of the log house in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from timber and rounded logs; the “claw” connection is most often used in shrinkage construction.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the building; such a lock is called a “clean corner”. The spike in this design is load-bearing element and bears the main load. To build a log house in a “clean corner”, it is recommended to use timber of the maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

Making dovetail fasteners with your own hands is quite difficult; to avoid mistakes, use a full-size dovetail tenon template for timber; the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. The cuts are made by hand circular saw. The easiest way is to make inclined cuts every 10-15 mm, squeeze out the trim with an ax and clean it with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with lumber natural humidity, in this case the tenon is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the rims, which will be eliminated naturally during the shrinkage process.

Disadvantages and features of dovetail joints:

A “clean corner” has through gaps that can expand over time;
The log house does not have closed crowns, the masonry on each wall is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
The corners of the building have an unpresentable appearance and do not decorate the facade;
The developer is limited in choosing the standard size of lumber.

According to the technology, a dovetail log house is built country houses economy class, bathhouses and outbuildings, such construction is low-cost and accessible to mass developers.

Blind frying pan

This method in construction practice makes it possible to fully use the advantages of trapezoidal fastening; a special feature is the hidden T-shaped groove-tenon connection. The size of the tenon does not exceed half a beam and is completely recessed into the body of the beam. The corner of the house assembled using this technology is called the “warm corner”. The lock provides reliable adhesion to the crown without through gaps; when treated with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. The beam is built up in the same way if its length is less than the length of the wall.

Sawing of the profile is carried out according to the drawing using a circular and axing saw. A rectangular blank for the tenon and groove is cut out using a circular saw, and the given shape is given with a special hand saw. For cutting a groove you can use hand cutter, workplace easy to equip yourself.

Advantages of the blind “frying pan” fastening technology:

Improved thermal insulation of the building;
You can use lumber of any size;
The castle is “hidden”, the facade takes on an attractive appearance;
During construction, you can use timber with a smaller profile;
Ensures economical use of building materials.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture content - lumber should have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers finished houses"Full construction".

Open frying pan

This method is used in the construction internal partitions from timber, laying floor joists and ceilings. The groove is cut across the entire width of the beam. The lock resembles a “claw” connection in the T-shaped version and ensures fixation of the structure in horizontal plane. This mount It is simple and can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of a frying pan lock is a profile in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid; the fastener is called a semi-frying pan. This fastening is designed for damper wood and is popular with individual developers.

Fastening with trapezoidal key

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in a keyed connection. A butterfly dowel formed by two trapezoidal shapes is made from hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines. With a dovetail keyway, the fastening dimensions are minimized, but this design ensures reliable fastening wooden structures of any complexity, allows you to put the production of wood products on stream.

Features of keyway technology:

Requires precise wood processing using modern technology and devices;
Minimizes resource and material consumption;
Maintains an attractive appearance of wood texture;
Allows you to make wooden structures of any complexity.

Dowel fastening is used by manufacturers of ready-made wooden houses from expensive laminated veneer lumber and allows you to implement the most complex projects houses.

Conclusion

Dovetail joints of timber in house construction are a reliable way of fastening wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. This type of fastening is widely used in interior design and the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in furniture production.

Dovetail, detachable tenon joint (trapezoidal grooves), used in mechanical engineering and carpentry for reliable fastening of parts to each other. In this material we will consider the manufacture of devices that facilitate the production of grooves in wood using hand router.

DIY accessories for a wood router

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of mankind, descriptions of the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, who proposed rotating a round file to increase the processing of the product, which can be considered the first analogue of a cutter.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney, over the years of his life from 1765 to 1825, brought to fruition all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which he is rightfully considered the creator of the first milling machine, although not all scientists agree with this statement.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, there are a great many adaptations for the manufacture of various parts, it is not possible to describe them all in the light of this material, and therefore we will consider only some of them, in my opinion, the most important and useful.

Universal device for tongue and groove connection

factory plate for making a tongue and groove connection

Used with a router to cut the corresponding grooves and tenons, it is installed in a vice and the part is pressed against the device with a clamp. Typically sold in stores.

appearance connections

Consider devices for milling grooves

Cut it out top part- a tabletop made of 18 mm plywood, 40 cm long and sufficiently wide to handle the thickest workpiece that you plan to join with a tenon.

Cut two 5x10 cm bars, sawing them to the same length as the top. The bars will subsequently play the role of pressing the workpiece and centering it relative to the groove in the tabletop. To prepare the top, draw a line down the center of the top, then rout a mortise along the line at one end.

schematic representation of equipment

note

The notch should be the same width as the copy ring you will use with your router bit. The notch should be long enough to match the length of the longest groove you will be cutting.

Then mill two adjustment slots perpendicular to the center line. Finally, drill an inspection hole between these two slots. To assemble the entire structure, screw the bolts into the jaws and secure the top to the bars with wing nuts and washers.

To use our equipment, draw a groove on the workpiece and mark the center line on it. Loosen the screws and place the workpieces between the bars so that the center line is connected to the top line of the jig, check that the edge of the workpiece is opposite the edge of the top.

Pinch the lambs. Align the router bit to one end of the mortise drawing, then mark guide lines on the top surface of the table along the edge of the router base.

How to work correctly with tongue and groove equipment

Repeat this again to mark the lines of the other end. Route the slot by starting the cut at the bottom by aligning the router base with the first construction line, and stop routing when the insert reaches the second construction line.

Let's make a device for making spikes with our own hands

Product for making spikes

The wood and plywood jig shown above allows you to cut rectangular tenons with two shoulders. The object being processed is located with its front surface underneath the jig, while the router moves along the stop from above, removing excess material in two passes.

The piece consists of two parallel base bars, a stopper and a stop - all made from wood of the same thickness as the piece, in this case from 25x75mm bars, and a top surface and support made from 18mm plywood.

The base bars should be approximately 400 mm long; cut out the top surface of plywood approximately 200 by 250 mm and screw it to the bars as shown in the figure. Screw the stopper onto the ends of the base bars along with the support. Place the stop approximately 25mm from the end of the top surface.

cut out the tenon using the device

Countersink holes for all screw heads and make sure all corners are square. Drill an inspection hole in the top surface to accurately position the workpiece exactly according to the markings.

In carpentry there are quite a few a large number of connecting parts to each other. One of them is the dovetail. This type of connection can be seen on drawers, chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, they will rest against each other. In order to make a dovetail with your own hands, you will need a minimum of tools and a little experience in carpentry.

Connection types

Depending on the task at hand, dovetailing can be performed in various ways:

Corner connections.
Separating.
Through.
Decorative.
Bevel connection.
Through connection with rebate.

All types of connections have their own strengths and weak sides, but, one way or another, they form a reliable connection between the two parts. To work you will need the following tools:

With these tools, you can easily make the connection. If it is possible to use, then there is no need for the listed tools.

Through connection type

This type of connection is widely used in the manufacture of both housing and upholstered furniture. It is also called “box”.

To begin with, the workpiece must be processed with a plane and excess wood removed. The next step will be marking the nests. Everything here is individual and depends on the width of the board, as well as on the tasks assigned. It is necessary to draw lines across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them into an even amount, set aside 3 mm on each side and draw lines across the end.

Now you need to mark the slope of the spikes with a small marker. The excess that remains should be marked to avoid confusion in the future.

After marking, you can begin cutting out the tenons. This can be done using a jigsaw or a regular saw with a fine tooth. For convenience, the workpiece can be clamped in a vice. Using a saw, you need to cut out one edge on each side of the tenon. You should cut out carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps that will further spoil the appearance. The same must be done with the other side spikes.

The side waste should be cut off from the shoulder line, and excess wood between the tenons can be easily removed with an openwork saw. Residue on both sides can be removed with a chisel or beveled chisel.

The cutting of the tenons is completed, and you can begin marking and cutting out the nests. Using the same vice, clamp the workpiece. The part with spikes must be attached to the workpiece and carefully mark the shape of the spikes.

After marking, carefully cut out the nests along the previously drawn lines. The cut from the main part should be made in such a way that it does not reach the marking line slightly. Carefully cut off part of the waste with an openwork saw. In order for the two parts to fit tightly together, it is necessary to clean the corners with a cutter.

When the two connections are ready, you can start joining them. It must be remembered that the connection is assembled only once. Before gluing the parts, you need to make sure that they fit tightly together. If there are any irregularities, they must be removed before gluing.

If everything fits tightly, then the following manipulations should be performed:

Two blanks need to be coated with glue, then connected to each other.
Tapping wooden hammer, fit two parts. Excess glue must be removed. Otherwise, after drying, the appearance will be ruined.
After drying, the gluing area is sanded on both sides.
Then check the angle, which should be 1/8 for hardwood and 1/6 for softwood. If the angle is too large, short fiber will be formed, which may affect the strength of the connection.

All these points also apply to other connection modifications. And they should be performed in the same sequence.

Decorative variety

This type of connection is used in places where beauty is needed. This connection also emphasizes the art of the master. In order to give decorative look thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece, carefully apply a line for marking the shoulder pads. Continue the marking line to the end and mark the excess. When cutting tenons, waste must be removed in the same way as for through joints. Stripping must be done from the ends to the middle.

Before fixing, the workpiece must be coated with chalk for a more rigid fixation. At the end you need to mark the distance between the small partitions, then continue all the lines of the tenons to the line of the shoulder pads, you must not forget about removing the excess. Most of the waste can be removed using a tenon cutter, and the shoulder pads are best trimmed with an openwork saw. To cut out small partitions, you need to press the workpiece firmly.

Using slow movements along the grain, make a cross cut near the shoulder line. The operations should be repeated. After these manipulations, apply glue and fasten both surfaces together.

Bevel connection

In some cases it is necessary to combine two types of connection. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and chamfer.

Using a thicknesser, mark the line of the shoulder pads on both sides. Apply a bevel line on the top edge. At the bottom of the workpiece, you need to mark a certain depth for the chamfer. Draw a line across the end and up to the line of the shoulder pads. From the first mark, put another line 6 mm long. Do the same with the bottom edge. Mark on the resulting marks required quantity thorns Mark the remaining excess.

Cut the tenons with a jigsaw and adjust with fine sandpaper. In this option, the excess is temporarily left. Apply a line of shoulder pads on both sides. Make a small mark on the top edge of the bevel line. Mark the tenon sockets on the workpiece and mark the bevel on the lower part. After finishing the manipulations, remove all excess.

Seam connection

Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special selection is made, which is called a “fold,” and the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection, gaps may appear in the corners, which can be eliminated by moving the shoulder pad.

The markup is slightly different from previous versions. On the sides you need to draw a line along which you can determine the depth of the rebate. The inner side is marked using the same thickness planer parameters. Below the rebate depth, mark 6 mm, and place the next mark from the opposite edge. Mark on the resulting marks right location thorns Draw a line across the chamfered edge, but it must completely correspond to the marked fold.

Marking the nests is done in exactly the same way as in the previous versions, using a ready-made blank with spikes and drawing supplies.

Another variation of this connection is the bevel connection. In it, the entire connection is hidden by a bevel, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling, the workpieces must be adjusted to the required size. It should be remembered that the nests must be made first, and then the thorns. The marking of the tenons is carried out identically to the other option, but with one caveat: between the thicknesser line and outer corner Using a special scriber and chalk, you should mark a bevel on each of the edges.

Make sure that there is no more than 6 mm from the shoulder line to the overlap. At the end between the drawn lines you need to mark the width and position of the sockets. For convenience, you can make a ready-made stencil from plywood, press it against the side walls and continue the marking line, after which all excess is removed. Before gluing two joints, you need to test them. If there are defects, remove them with a chisel and sandpaper.

Inclined docking

Mainly used for large parts. In terms of difficulty, it ranks first. In order to make a tenon and groove with your own hands in this type of connection, it will take much more time. The complexity of manufacturing is associated with the peculiarity of the connection, in which all the edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking, the boards must be adjusted to the same width. A drawing for a dovetail connection will greatly facilitate the task.

The drawing should begin with a lateral projection, and it is also necessary to indicate the thickness and dimensions. As for the vertical projection, it can be drawn, just like the lateral one. Use the same method to design the side view. The figure shows a drawing of a dovetail, the dimensions of which are a specific standard.

The next step is to cut the piece to length and width. Place a small tool on point X and move this angle to inner side. Saw off the remaining ends. Place another small piece on the U corner and place it on the edges. Now we need guide lines, which can be obtained by connecting the marks on the edge.

Carefully trim off the end bevel. On front side Parts with spikes should be marked. You need to measure the size of the material using the beveled ends. Apply a small tool to point X and mark a line along the edge of the parts. Place 6mm notches on the top and bottom edges. The position of the studs can be calculated from these marks.

The slope of the tenons must be marked on the inclined end of the parts. For convenience, you can use a small spoon. Using a stencil and a square, mark the spikes. Mark the remaining excess. When cutting out tenons, you need to rely on the previously marked corners, after which you can draw and cut out the nests using the finished workpiece.

All excess is carefully removed at the end of the work. If for some reason the slope is not satisfactory, then it can be trimmed after gluing or cleaned with a grinder. If you have to hammer out the joints with a mallet, you need to place a piece of a block, otherwise marks may remain.

Manual frezer

If you constantly have to deal with such compounds and produce them in large quantities, then manual method won't do. Exist stationary machines and, which, using a special cutter, can make a certain number of spikes or “tails” in one pass. To save even more time, you can make templates. To create tenons and tails, you must have a cutter.

Before milling, the workpiece should be placed vertically for convenience. Before this, you need to mark the number of tails. When milling, waste will be generated, which can be easily removed with a router.

You can purchase templates at the market or in a store, with the help of which things will go even faster. You need to attach and fix the device to the top of the workpiece. Then set the required cutting depth on the router. After milling, all connections are smooth and require virtually no adjustment.

If carpentry work is to be done and a strong and reliable connection of two parts is necessary, then the best option there will be a dovetail. If you have a hand router, even a beginner in carpentry can make tenons and tails. In addition, after assembly, such a connection looks aesthetically pleasing.

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DOVE-TAIL JOINTS

Dovetail joints are not only visually attractive, but also very durable. The ability to cut such tenons correctly is a sign of skill that comes with experience.

When assembling furniture, fasteners are now widely used - screws, dowels, and various ties. However, tenon joints, including those on dovetail tenons, do not completely give up their positions. They are quite reliable and at the same time beautiful. Such joints can be used to fasten, for example, the side walls of cabinet furniture with lids. It is not easy to break a dovetail joint by tension. Therefore, it is often used in the manufacture of drawers. But we should not forget that the dovetail connection is resistant to such a load only in one direction.

Chipboard parts are not suitable for dovetail joints: this material is too loose. To one degree or another, plywood, boards or furniture panels are suitable here.

Dovetail spike shape

If you look at the connection from above, you can clearly see that the “dovetails” are fan-shaped spikes at the end of one of the parts. The sides of the tenons are beveled inward with a slope ranging from 1:5 - for “rough” but strong connections used when joining parts made of soft wood and furniture panels, up to 1:8 - for parts made of hard wood. The connection on the latter looks more attractive. And you need to know that with a smaller slope, the connection may come apart under load, and with a larger slope, the tenons may break.

In the finished connection, the “teeth” that engage with the spikes are clearly visible. The slope of the spikes must exactly match the slope of the “teeth”.

The joint should always have “teeth” at the edges (not halves of tenons) -

this prevents bulging of the parts being connected.

Another factor that affects the appearance of the joints is the distance between the dovetails. In principle, the following rule applies: the wider the dovetails (spikes) or the greater the distance between them, the better. However, there is a limit to everything, besides, products come in different sizes (for example, a chest and a casket), and we should not forget about the strength of the connection.

Marking the studs

The preparation of parts begins with trimming (in this case, their thickness does not have to match), and then marking
position of the spines and “teeth”. It is better for a novice master to give a small (1-2 mm) allowance in length.

For marking, use a small marker. To adjust it to the inclination angle of the studs, for example 1:6, draw two mutually perpendicular lines on paper and divide them into six from the intersection point equal parts. Connect the sixth mark on one line with the first mark on the other. The slope of the resulting diagonal will be equal to 1:6. Based on this sketch, the fry is displayed.

At both edges, parts with spikes mark the width of the outer “teeth” and draw lines parallel to the edges through these points. Further onto the part diagonally
Apply a tape measure or ruler and turn it until the size between the lines is divided without a remainder by the desired number of spikes. These points are marked on the diagonal, and then, using a thicknesser, they are transferred to the end of the part. As a result of these simple constructions, the positions of the centers of the spaces between the spikes were determined.

The same length is laid on both sides of the found centers (in our example - 3 mm). The distance between the ends of the segments will be equal to minimum clearance between the thorns. From these points, with the help of a small mark, the spikes themselves are finally marked. The height of the spikes is marked with a surface planer placed on a thick

the part with the “teeth”. Markings are made on both sides of the part.

If the part has an allowance in length, it should be taken into account when marking. In this case, the length of the spikes will be slightly longer than required. Later, when the parts are connected, the excess is removed with an end plane.

When marking, all parts with spikes are marked with some conventional signs to avoid confusion.

Tenon cutting

Special tenon saws are used to cut tenons and “teeth”. When using a regular fine-tooth saw to rip sawing it will need to be additionally prepared, in particular, to reduce the spread of the teeth (especially if the saw is new). For this saw blade Place the entire surface on the whetstone and lightly pass it over it once or twice. The same thing is repeated, turning the canvas over to the other side.

When cutting dovetail tenons, the part is clamped in a vice. If there are two such parts (for example, side walls drawer), thorns can be cut on both at once.

Start cutting along the marking lines by tilting the saw back and simultaneously guiding it with your fingernail thumb. When the cutting line is “caught”, the saw is leveled and work continues until the part is cut to the full height of the tenon (to the horizontal mark). Under no circumstances should you cross this mark.

Now you can remove the material between the cuts that form the tenons. This operation is performed with a chisel. Having selected the wood from one side to half the thickness of the part, it is turned over and processed in the same way on the other side.

Next, they begin cutting the “teeth”. The part with the “teeth” is clamped in a vice, the part with sawn tenons is placed on the end and fixed. Then the saw is inserted into the cuts and the end part of the part with the “teeth” is cut. Finally, the “teeth” are cut in the same way as the “dovetails”. And in this case, you should not cut along the marked line, but so that the saw teeth lightly touch it from the outside. Finally, the material between the “teeth” is removed with a chisel.

Before joining the parts, it is necessary to remove any possible irregularities and carefully chamfer the inner edge on both sides of each tenon (especially on the outer ones). This will make it easier to connect the parts, and finished product such a bevel will not be noticeable.

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FINGER CONNECTIONS