The neighbor was planning to put up a boundary fence made of corrugated sheet metal. I forcibly talked him out of the wooden one. However, he had already purchased the base material for the fence: metal posts and metal logs from the profile. Now he wants to drill holes in these joists and screw the boards to them with galvanized screws.
He doesn’t understand the reasoning - that it’s easier, cheaper and more reliable to buy 20 rubles each and instead of these lags weld blank plates for bolting wooden beams to the posts, to which it will then be easy and simple to nail the boards.
You can understand him - where to put these recklessly purchased logs now? But there is a suspicion that not only will drilling pieces of iron take longer and hemorrhoids, but these self-tapping screws will rust in a few years and the boards will fly off...

Or am I wrong and this is how they do it - boards on pieces of iron?

If you really want to dissuade your neighbor, try to think through the situation thoroughly in advance. What will you say to your neighbor, what can he say to you in response, etc. What you told us here will be crushed to smithereens in the first minute of the conversation. Here is a possible justification for the neighbor's position.

A fence with metal logs between the posts is more reliable than a fence with wooden logs, since the metal logs themselves and their attachment to the posts are definitely more reliable (stronger).

The fence frame when using metal logs will certainly be more durable, and in future repairs for a long time it will only be a question of replacing the sheathing boards, whereas otherwise replacement may be required wooden logs.

The screws that secure the boards and the nails that secure the boards will also rust. This is an argument over the counter.

But it is a fact that in this case, boards secured with self-tapping screws will loosen later than boards nailed. The nails are smooth and will be held in place by the wood, while the self-tapping screw has a thread that will eventually go into the metal. In addition, the screws can be tightened (tightened) if necessary, but what about the nails?

I'll cautiously suggest that you haven't tried screwing screws into the profile? Rumors about the difficulty of attaching anything to the profile resp. self-tapping screws - greatly exaggerated. And if in your life you have had to work with a screwdriver more often than with a hammer (and now this is very common), then by screwing self-tapping screws into the profile with a good screwdriver, you will most likely outrun yourself holding the hammer in your hands.

Nowadays, perhaps everyone has a screwdriver available, and the only tool for driving nails at hand is almost certainly a hammer. It is physically easier to work with a screwdriver than to hammer nails.

In order to efficiently hammer boards onto the fence with a hammer, you still need to adapt: ​​so that your efforts to nail the next board do not lead to the loosening of the previous ones. With a screwdriver and metal joists, this problem simply does not exist.

Let's look at prices. For the logs, the neighbor most likely bought a 20x40 profile, costing about 70 rubles per meter? That is, an ordinary log 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.

Despite the fact that when using metal profile of any length, at any distance between the posts, there will be no scraps, since it can be welded together. When using wooden logs, we either end up with scraps or additional ones. plates/corners for joining joists outside the pillars (two plates - 40 RUR). Or you will have to make the width between the pillars a multiple standard length lumber 3 meters, which may not in the best possible way will affect the strength of a relatively heavy wooden fence, especially one assembled on wooden logs.

But let's return to the prices for logs. Unless, of course, you don’t get the wooden logs for free. For the logs of a wooden fence, a 50x100 board is good. It costs approximately 5000 rubles per cubic meter natural humidity and about 8000 rubles per cubic meter dry. That is, the cheapest board (whether it soon turns into a “saber”, “propeller” or simply cracks - we’ll leave it behind the scenes) will cost about 25 rubles per meter. Laga best quality, will cost 40 rubles per meter.

To summarize, a metal joist in a run between two pillars 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
A wooden beam 2.5 meters long and of worse quality will cost 62.5+20=82.5 rubles. And the quality is better, already 100+20=120 rubles. 20 rubles - the cost of the plate that is needed to attach the log to the pole.

If the width of the common fence between the plots is 30 meters and two logs (if the length of the fence or the number of logs is different, the following calculations will need to be clarified), we get the cost of equipping the fence with metal logs 70x2x30 = 4200 rubles. The cost of equipping the same length of fence with wooden logs is worse than 1500 for logs and about 500 rubles for plates: 1500+500=2000 rubles. If we take better lags, then 2400+500=3100 rubles. And we left behind the scenes the situation with possible appearance scraps when using wooden logs.

That is, the savings in log material when using high-quality wooden logs instead of metal profile logs will amount to as much as 1,100 rubles at 30 meters!
Despite the fact that refusal to use metal joists puts the neighbor at a loss of 4,200 rubles.

P.S. And, please, no offense, but you probably shouldn’t be so biased towards your neighbor (I’m talking about “reasons”, etc.).
In any case, do not forget that you still have to live with him

Under reliable protection

So that wooden structures and under open air maintained their stability for a long time, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.

Rain and wind won't matter!

As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur unnoticed. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners’ heads. Not only that - rotten wood and rusty metal parts Over time, they can become a threat to the stability of the entire structure.

Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from exposure to moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying to steel parts special coatings. Some of them, such as chromium, combine with steel chemical reaction, others form a film on the surface of the metal, including from a special powder.

When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the most the best remedy from rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.

Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.

For dark types of wood, blackened screws can also be used, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.

Screws from of stainless steel – the best choice when constructing a structure that will be located in the open air.

Formatted screws(1) are used primarily for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, you use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture and become visible through the paint layer. But with the blacks, phosphated screws this won't happen. Chrome/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by its yellowish color. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Stainless steel screws and bolts(4) – twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.

The phrase “high-quality steel” does not say anything about the stability of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. Only through special processing or the addition of other metals does steel become corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods for protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.

The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one or another method. High-quality stainless steel fasteners are the most expensive, but they certainly won’t have any problems with corrosion.

Most a budget option- parts made of galvanized steel. But if you want to prevent these parts from rusting, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. Chrome plating is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.

1. Chrome plated

When chrome plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are dipped in chromic acid, as a result of which a chrome film is formed on the products. She gives very good protection from corrosion of screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products color scheme well suited to wood used outdoors.

2. Galvanized

When galvanizing steel becomes protective layer made of zinc. During hot-dip galvanizing, parts are immersed in a bath of zinc heated to +450°C. When galvanizing, zinc is applied to the part.

in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.

3. Stainless steel

High-quality stainless steel refers to types of steel that, thanks to the addition of chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium, become atmospheric exposure completely immune to corrosion. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, so some manufacturers subject their fasteners special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that products

made of stainless steel are not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high-alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance of stainless steel, regular washing of metal products is required. warm water with surfactants.

4. Powder coated

Before applying the powder-varnish coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in an oven at temperatures above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.

This way the supports will last a long time!

Drive-in bases: they do not require concrete

During construction wooden structures, which will have to be located in the open air, it is very important that the tree does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pier bases are the easiest and most inexpensive means of installing piers stably and keeping them dry. On such supports you can install a lightweight structure made of wood or using frame technology.

When hammering the bases into the ground, special tools should be used: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - this is where the blows should be struck. If you hit metal directly with an ordinary hammer, you can damage it. top part products.

For optimal protection To prevent moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with protective azure. The holes drilled for fastening must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. Protective covering must be completely dry before installation can begin.

Here are two types anchors For wooden supports, installed on concrete foundation and protected from moisture. H-shaped anchor suitable for supports various sizes. The lower third of the anchor is filled with concrete. Those who find anchoring with a classic U-shaped anchor too noticeable can install the supports with virtually invisible anchors with a support shoe. A notch is made in the middle of the support, holes for fastening bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and secured with bolts. Then the support is concreted.

Supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be lightly dug up, cut down, and the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a block of suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability; it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.

PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES

Caps

To rainwater does not damage the tree, special caps are placed on top of the support, the top is sawed off at an angle or rounded off.

This will make your floors last longer.

Structural protection of wood is especially important when installing floors on outdoor terraces.

It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope in one direction - this way the water will drain from the terrace by itself.

The other two are simple, but effective techniques We illustrated with drawings.

Correct: the head of the screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hard wood, so you should always pre-drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is dented. In the first case, you can get injured by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the self-tapping screw and water collects.

A simple pommel made of galvanized steel can be bought for 140 rubles. in a construction supermarket.

The pommel, made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, costs almost 400 rubles.

Plastic tops are intended for children's furniture or playground structures. They protect the tree from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rub.

The upper part of the support without a top needs to be either rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.

You can purchase a pole top made of wood.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as protection from stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a fencing structure - brick, concrete and hardware, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wood; today they install wooden fence on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

Wood is always in demand because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

• Naturalness.
• Decorative.
• Aesthetics.
• Unique color and texture.
• Low cost compared to fencing made from other materials.
• Excellent compatibility with architectural style any building.
• Ease of construction.
• Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood also has disadvantages, namely its relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic agents for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

On to the pros support products made of metal includes:

• Simplicity of installation work.
• Reliability and durability of the design.
• Strength.
• Resistance against static and dynamic loads.
• Possibility to use any fixation method.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if a fence is used, the price will increase significantly, but if you consider that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not such.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are available in different sections:

• Square. Such products are easy to install in sections and are characterized by reliable connections. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, side dimensions - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
• Round. If used with round the pipe is metal, the price of the supports will be slightly lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a round cross-section provides the opportunity to select products required thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
• Rectangular. The only difference between these products and the square section is their shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order for it to last for decades, it is necessary to protect not only the base material, but also the metal fencing elements. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be placed on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Site marking

Before you begin making the fence, you need to make markings. To do this, first, where you plan to make a wooden fence on metal posts, you need to remove bushes, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the soil surface. Only now the markings are being made. You need to do the following:

• Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
• Stretch a string between them.
• Mark the places where fence supports will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal posts with your own hands, the cheapest option is to drive the pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. To do the job, two people are needed: one hammers, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not hammer the pipes, but dig them in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and compact the earth well.

The following installation options are more labor-intensive, but also more reliable:

• Concreting
• Mounting on a concrete plinth.
• Usage screw piles. For complex ones, this is an excellent solution to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

What’s noteworthy is that the rules listed below are suitable for installing supports made of different materials:

• It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their reliable fixation in the soil. After this, so that the pillars do not become loose over time, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete them. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has hardened.
• They begin work by installing the outermost corner piles, carefully aligning them in height. Subsequent pillars are installed at the same level as the previous one. To avoid any undesirable changes, you can, to maintain the height indicator, dig in slats instead of the outer pillars, stretch string between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired label height.

• How the posts should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal posts should be installed so that the supports rise several centimeters above the picket fence.
• To prevent the wind from twisting the fence on rocky, sandy and non-heaving soils, it is necessary to bury the supports no less than half the height of the fence.
• Widening the bottom end of the post will increase its strength and durability. The welded cross will serve as such an extension.
• After all the pillars have been installed, you can concrete mortar Make small cones at their base to drain water.

Installation of a picket fence

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - purlins - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the fastening first and only then install the posts. But then you also need to ensure that all fastenings are at the same level and create single line, this is the only way to attach the purlins without any problems.

Depending on what material the cross beams are made of - wood or a metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal posts using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastening, and wood products are fixed using bolts or self-tapping screws. If the cross beams are made of wood, then they are fixed to the fastening with bolts, but the picket fence is fastened with ordinary nails. The main thing is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either tightly or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. In this case, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve for a much longer period of time.

All that remains is to make and install the wicket and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated sheets, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal posts goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also all elements of the structure.

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need for fastening wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, you need to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to carry out installation yourself; this article will be devoted to this issue.

What you should know about this type of work

Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances, which will ensure the highest reliability:

Properties of wood	Do not forget that this material can expand due to changes in temperature and humidity, so be sure to leave a gap in order to compensate for linear changes in size. This will avoid a lot of troubles in the future and eliminate unpleasant surprises in the form of cracks in the final finish.
Adequate structural protection	In order for the structures to last as long as possible, be sure to treat them before installation with a special compound that will protect the material from mold and pests, and also significantly reduce the likelihood of fire. It is better to use hard-to-wash options that penetrate deeply into the structure
Use of quality materials	It is not recommended to use wood with high humidity, since after installation the elements may move, which will disrupt the geometry of the structure. In addition, when dried in improper conditions, cracks may form on the surface, which reduces the reliability of structures.
Choosing the right mounting method	For different situations may be suitable various options carrying out work, universal solution does not exist, so you should understand the pros and cons of one method or another. This will allow you to select the optimal fastener

Important!
Sometimes you have to start from the existing situation when the walls are built, but even in such cases it is possible to achieve excellent result works
You should not save money and choose the most reliable ones.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one solution or another depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many methods, we will look at the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements need to be installed:

• Fastening wooden beam To concrete wall carried out using quick installation dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: holes of a certain depth are also drilled into holes at a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall must be twice the thickness of the bar.

Important!
If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, then it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

Aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package, it will indicate which drill and how deep the hole should be made and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and fastest option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.

• For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners, they have teeth, which when tightening the self-tapping screw required diameter diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.

• If fastening is carried out wooden stairs to an aerated concrete floor, additional reinforcement may be required using a threaded rod, which goes all the way through and ensures the highest reliability.

Drywall

Let us immediately note that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very reliably using the following products:

• The “driva” dowel is a unit with or without a drill at the end; the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
  
• Dowel "butterfly" is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it expands from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but it is very convenient to carry out the work.

Conclusion

The video in this article will tell you Additional information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that compliance simple recommendations and the use of high-quality fasteners are the main components of reliable connections.