In this article I will tell you how to assemble a door frame, namely how to cut and assemble a door frame in two different versions:

• Wash down the boxes at 45°
• I washed the boxes down at 90°.

box with seal

The interior door consists of door leaf, hanging hinges, mortise lock or latch, as well as the door frame. As a rule, the door frame for doors of the middle price class is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “designer”, that is, in disassembled form. Consists of a box of three profiled wooden beams, covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; horizontal beams are 1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.

For some manufacturers, the door frames are already sawed off and cut at an angle of 45°, just to the size of the door leaf and are completely prepared for assembly. But most boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.

Let's consider two options for assembling the door frame

Option 1. Sawing and assembling the box at an angle of 45°

Correct joining of the door frame in the corners

Washed down the boxes on the miter box

The door frame is ready for assembly

• Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a web size of 2000 mm and finishing floor covering at 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finished floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
• Check the box inside Box beams according to the required length of the canvas.
• Saw off the excess at an angle. The cutting angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical beams of the box must be the same.
• Do the same procedure with a horizontal short beam. The only difference is that you have to saw off from both sides. Be careful with the sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure twice, cut once.

When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.

Option 2. Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Door frame view for direct connection

Door frame connection at 90 degrees

Preparing for Direct Box Connection

With this assembly option, in the vertical posts of the future box, the so-called box ledge is removed by the thickness of the vertical beam. See picture.

Assembling a door frame step by step

Assembling a door frame with a gash

After preparing the box, we begin assembling it.

Place the prepared parts of the box on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with screws, two screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90°, the self-tapping screws are screwed in at right angles (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo top right). The box is "almost complete."

In order to maintain parallelism vertical racks and the distance between them matches the size of the door leaf, place the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, since it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.

Fixing the canvas in the box for its correct assembly

Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. There are several ways to do this.

Ways to fix the door frame in the desired position before installation

Method 1. Secure the door frame using thin slats. Nail the slats perpendicular to the posts, using thin nails to the very edge of the vertical posts. There should be two slats: in the middle and at the bottom.

Mounting angle for box assembly

Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid force angles with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the force angles, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal beams. But I recommend adding another fixing bar to the bottom of the box.

The assembly of the door frame is completed, remove the door leaf from the frame. Assembled box ready for installation.

That's all! Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Especially for the site:

The platband is a door element that performs a decorative function, covering the seam between the doorway and the frame. The quality of its installation depends on appearance doors, so you need to approach this process responsibly.

Types of platbands

Platbands differ depending on the material from which they are made. They can be made from:

• wood;
• plastic;
• metal

Each of the materials used has its own characteristics. Metal trims made of aluminum or steel.

Plastic ones have a wide choice color solutions. They are cheap and can be installed using liquid nails. Plastic casing is flexible, so it is successfully used on uneven walls.

MDF trims have their own nuances when fastening. When using nails, you need to make blind holes for them so as not to damage the material during the nailing process.

The shape of the platbands can be:

• flat;
• curly;
• rounded.

Flat and rounded ones can be purchased at any store. Figured ones are usually made to order.

Depending on the installation method, the following types are distinguished:

Mounting methods

Attaching platbands with your own hands can be done in two ways:

How to install platbands depends on their type and material of manufacture. So, telescopic ones are attached only to liquid nails. You can install the rest in one or another way.

Installation features

Installation of cashing is carried out after installing the door and finishing the walls of the room, but before installing the baseboard. If the box is placed correctly and is flush with the wall, then nailing the platbands with your own hands will not be difficult.

If cashing needs to be attached on both sides of the door, then start with the one where the hinges are located. In this case, when fastening, one feature must be taken into account. Installation of the platband is not possible flush with door frame, because the fittings will interfere. Therefore, an indent of several millimeters is made from the corner of the door frame. This distance is maintained when attaching the horizontal and second vertical strips. Installation of platbands on doors with reverse side produced without this indentation.

Joining of platbands

The vertical and horizontal strips must fit together correctly to ensure attractiveness. doorway. The platbands can be secured by joining them together at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees.

Cutting a corner at 90 degrees is used when the shape of the interior doors is flat, that is, it is a rectangle in cut. It doesn’t matter whether the joining seams are located horizontally or vertically. After sawing, the sections are processed acrylic paint or varnish. An angle of 90 degrees is also suitable for decorating with capitals - decorative element, giving the door a luxurious look.

An angle of 45 degrees is used when installing figured and rounded platbands. It ensures perfect joining of horizontal and vertical planks. You can make such an angle using a miter box, a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw, drawing a cut line.

Tools for work

Installation of platbands is carried out using the following tools:

• pencil, square;
• roulette;
• miter box;
• hammer, nails.

Instead of a miter box, a jigsaw or hacksaw is quite suitable.

Installation process

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands begins with measurements. It is necessary to correctly and accurately measure the height of the opening. This can be done with a tape measure, then transfer the measurement to the bar or apply the cash to the opening and actually mark the place where you need to make a cut on the inside of the corner. External corner is defined as follows. The width of the casing is added to the inner side and the place on its outer side is marked.

Do the same with the second vertical bar. You should not blindly transfer the opening height values ​​obtained when measuring the first casing. Distance from floor to top point opening may vary.

In order to correctly mark a horizontal bar with your own hands, the vertical ones are attached to two nails: one is nailed near the floor, and the second is at a distance of a meter from the first. The vertical strip is pre-prepared by cutting at 45 degrees on one side. It is applied to the installation site, leading behind the vertical bar where there is no saw cut and in fact marking the angle that needs to be made.

After marking and filing the corners of the plank, you need to nail it with nails or glue it around the perimeter of the doorway. A fastening step of 15-20 centimeters is used for doors that are often used. For balcony or storage doors, 50 centimeters between nails will be enough.

Elimination of defects

If this is your first time installing platbands with your own hands, then not everything may be perfect. The cracks formed as a result of improper sawing can be hidden with wood putty or a wax corrector, selecting the required color.

Telescopic trims

Telescopic trims are installed on interior doors using special slots and grooves, which are provided at the manufacturing stage. Their peculiarity is that fastening is possible only perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, gaps will be noticeable, and the appearance of the doorway will leave much to be desired.

Installation telescopic platbands with your own hands it is possible on the door with different widths opening. This is achieved due to the fact that the slot can not be completely inserted into the groove if the opening is larger than intended standard size. If it is smaller, then the protrusion can be filed down.

For openings with very thick walls, the width of the uncovered area is hidden using telescopic extensions.

Installing trim on interior doors with your own hands is not a complicated process. Knowing the installation process and types of cashing, you can choose suitable option in each specific case.

Doors are often purchased in a disassembled state, when the leaf is separate, and the door frame is generally just a set of profile timber. True, you shouldn’t be afraid of this, since the process of assembling a door frame with your own hands is quite simple.

Door frame installation tools

• rotary miter box,
• hammer drill and screwdriver,
• hand saw,
• carpenter's level and plumb line,
• Bulgarian,
• pry bar, nail puller, hammer,
• set of hardware.

Preparatory work

So, you are already a model of your future interior door and prepared the tools. Now, in order to install a new door frame, you need to dismantle the old doors.

To do this, first remove the platbands, and then, trying not to harm the wall, remove them using a hacksaw, pry bar, etc. the necessary tool old door frame.

If her fasteners If you can't turn them out, you can simply saw them through with a sander. After this, it would be useful to carefully examine the wall to determine whether it needs to be strengthened.

If you find many cracks on the surface, and the surface begins to crumble under slight impact, then for reliability of installation and durability new door you will need to carry out additional concrete works to strengthen doorway.

We take measurements and assemble the box

Without exaggeration, this part of the work when installing a door frame can be called one of the most important. Here you will need to accurately calculate the length of the racks, as well as the upper lintel with or without a threshold (the lower bar in modern doorways, as a rule, is not done). The width and height of the door frame should ideally be smaller sizes doorway by 2-3 cm, so that the gap between the bars and the wall is no more than 1-1.5 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the opening dimensions are much more sizes doors and, accordingly, boxes. If the difference is relatively small, then a block of appropriate thickness can be filled across the entire width of the opening. If the discrepancy in size is significant, then the opening is filled with bricks, or part of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard. But in any case, to avoid unnecessary expenses and effort, dismantle in advance old door, measure the dimensions of the opening, and buy a new door in accordance with them.

There are several options for assembling the box, but the two most popular of them are with fastening the beams at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. For each of them different measurements are taken.

Advice. In some cases, when arranging the interior, it will be justified to use it - where there is not enough space for classic drop-down doors.

We fix the bars at an angle of 45 degrees

The length of the vertical bars in this case is the sum of the height of the door opening, the thickness of the upper lintel, the threshold (if any) and the size of the required gaps at the top and bottom. The latter are usually taken at 3 mm. Naturally, both vertical beams must be equal in length.

The lengths of the lintel and threshold are calculated by adding the width of the door itself, the thickness of each vertical beam and the same gaps. Remember that to fasten door frame elements at an angle of 45 degrees, you need to thoroughly calculate the dimensions, make the necessary markings, and then cut the timber.

The connection is fixed with a pair of screws into pre-drilled holes. The screws are screwed into the bars at an angle of 45 degrees, and if drilling is not done in advance, wood profile It might just crack.

We fasten the bars at an angle of 90 degrees

In this case, the horizontal profile of the door frame will overlap the vertical one. Accordingly, the dimensions of the vertical bars will be determined as the height of the door itself plus a pair of 3 mm gaps at the top and bottom.

This is for the option with a threshold. If the latter is not present, then instead of 3 mm bottom clearance you will need to add a whole centimeter, i.e. 10 mm, so that the door does not cling to the covering on the floor.

The width of the threshold and the upper lintel will be calculated as the sum of the width of the door leaf, the double thickness of the vertical beam and a pair of 3 mm gaps. In addition, so that the protruding part of the profile on which the door rests when closing does not interfere with connecting the bars to each other, it will be necessary to make landing holes.

That is, the narthex - the protruding part along the edges of the horizontal bars - will simply need to be cut to the width of the vertical profile. To do this you will need a minimum of tools:

• hacksaw,
• carpenter's hammer,
• chisel.

Accordingly, with a hacksaw you will need to carefully make a cut to the width of the protruding part of the profile, and then using a chisel and a hammer, simply chop off the unnecessary piece of the profile and clean the surface. Fastening is carried out similarly with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees.

Installing hinges

This is also a fairly simple, although important, step in installing a door frame:

1. Decide how the door will open (inward or outward) in order to choose the side on which you will need to hang the hinges;
2. Place the door leaf and frame on a flat surface;



3. Measure 20 cm from the top and bottom edges of the door leaf and make marks for installing hinges;
4. Attach the hinges to the end of the door leaf at the marking site, trace them along the contour, and then carefully draw them along these lines with a sharp knife;



5. Next, in this place, using a chisel, you will need to make a recess with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop so that the latter does not extend beyond the structure;
6. Mark the place in the made recess for the screws, drill the corresponding holes and secure the loop;



Inserting hinges into a door frame using a router

7. Do the same on door frame with the second side of the loops.

• with a 90 degree cut.

In both cases, installing platbands requires time, attention and effort, as it is a complex procedure.

Installation method with 45 degree trim

As part of this installation method, the master will have to trim the places where the individual elements of the whole set are connected into a single structure, maintaining an angle of 45 degrees. This method is the most popular and is suitable for working with any platbands, regardless of their configuration. In terms of shape, profiles can vary, having:

• flat;

• arcuate;

• any other front part, including carved ones.

Complexity self-installation platbands lies in the process of cutting corners. If you have a miter saw, the procedure is simplified: the cut is smooth and neat. In other cases, you will have to try hard to get a decent result. Processing of colored laminated or veneered products is especially difficult. Regular jigsaw not enough to achieve optimal evenness and cutting accuracy without any chipping on front side. You must use hand tools:

• Miter box. It's primitive hand tool, which does not guarantee accuracy. It is a kind of groove, a template with slots that determine the cutting angle. Very soon the miter box causes the cuts being made to break, completely eliminating accuracy. The miter box belongs to the category of disposable devices.

• Rotary hacksaw. Optimal and durable attachment for cleaner cutting. To process it, it is enough to turn the saw, observing the necessary angle parameters and, making manual movements, make a cut.