Already in the fall you need to think about spring planting, which means now is the time to prepare the soil for winter.

Many insect pests can remain in the soil over the winter, for example cabbage fly, and many others. Weed seeds can also be in the soil, and some pathogens overwinter in. Digging the soil will help you get rid of many troubles.

Having prepared the soil for winter, next summer season you can avoid or use much less herbicides and insecticides.

Clear the area of ​​weeds, branches, and tops. tops healthy plants can be used for, and the tops of diseased plants are burned. Dig heavy soil onto a layer without breaking the lumps or turning the lump over, so that the humus layer does not end up deep in the soil. Tree trunk circles trees are dug up with a pitchfork to reduce trauma to the roots to a depth of 20 cm, under bushes - 10-12 cm. Lumps of earth freeze well in winter, thereby killing pests, are enriched with oxygen and retain snow. Dig before the snow falls, since you cannot bury snow in the soil (in the spring the soil will take a long time to warm up and dry out). After digging, mulch the soil in a thick layer. In the spring, loosen and break up the lumps. You can dig up the soil with a shovel without disturbing the soil structure, or with a motorized cultivator when weather conditions no longer allow you to tackle this issue yourself.

Light soil is usually not dug up, but loosened. Then add 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m., as well as humus, peat and sand for nutrition and water-air exchange.

If your site has acidic soil, then do it in the fall, since in the fall the plants are dormant and will not absorb the deoxidizer; spring liming of the soil, when the plants begin their growing season, will not play a better role. In the fall, a deoxidizer (fluff lime, carbonated lime, dolomite flour, cement dust or bone meal) can simply be scattered over the surface of the soil; in the future, it will penetrate into the soil from rain and snow. Remember, the heavier the soil, the more lime you need to add (250 g fits in a glass).

Let us remind you that in the fall you need to prepare not only the soil for winter, but also planting holes for shrubs and fruit trees.

If planting fruit trees is planned for spring, then it is necessary in summer or autumn, and for autumn planting– in May-June. During this time, the soil will mix with fertilizers and create a favorable microbiological environment for successful plant growth.

Modern agronomists see less and less the need to dig up the soil. Some people think it's even harmful. How to properly prepare the soil for winter and improve its composition in a short time, see the following video.

We fight weeds

Twice tillage and continuous loosening of the soil summer period do not in any way contribute to its improvement. Autumn processing soils for vegetable crops should be produced before the onset of persistent cold weather and the rainy season. The best time for such a task is considered to be the second half of September - the first ten days of October.

It is advisable to begin soil preparation by lightly loosening the top layer of soil and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, the easiest way is to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting using

harrowing. Professionals recommend using a Fokin flat cutter, which simultaneously destroys weeds and loosens the soil. Even if young weeds appear in the beds later, they will be destroyed when the soil is loosened in spring. Regular implementation of this work leads to the destruction of weeds such as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.

Working with a cultivator and walk-behind tractor

Most landowners prefer machining soil, which significantly increases the yield, and on overgrown with perennial grasses and uncultivated soils it simply serves as an indispensable agrotechnical technique.

When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the milling cutter creates a fine-lumpy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm; this is considered the most suitable for this work.

Among other things, the motor cultivator allows for loosening row spacing, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, you should immediately take into account that the cultivator can only work on previously plowed soil. That is, if the area is turfed, then a walk-behind tractor will come in handy. In this case, the entire green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.

Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft, which allows the use of a variety of attachments. When using a cutter on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of seeds vegetable crops and favorable for growing young seedlings. This soil treatment is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. IN open ground the number of factors influencing the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and “fluffy” soil is simply unacceptable for it.

Usually, cultivated plants need abundant nutrition. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This also contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues and the formation of humus. Tillage stimulates root growth

plant system and allows it to penetrate deeper with less effort.

Deep tillage may be required every five years. Walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a set of attachments are suitable for this. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. Special benefit This kind of work pays off when growing table root vegetables.

Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.

About the benefits of fertilizers

In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. During the loosening process, they are evenly mixed with the fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for good quality the resulting products.

During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to areas of the planned site. next year planting seedlings of cucumbers and cabbage (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except nitrogen ones, can be applied to all crops. The digging depth should be at least 20 cm.

If you want to deepen the arable horizon, then keep in mind that in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On acidic soil prerequisite there will be liming. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), tops and plant remains(except for stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. On such beds you can not only sow ahead of schedule, but the soil on them warms up better.

How to treat an area where nothing has grown for a long time

How to treat an area where nothing has grown for a long time

In the first spring, the sod area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In the fall, the area is dug up again, but to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the turf is at a depth and no longer germinates. All that remains is to apply fertilizer and level the surface with a rake.

In the fall, the area treated in the spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.

The following autumn, after harvesting, the plot is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the turf will decompose and the weeds will die. Subsequently, the soil is treated as developed.

Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t really want to dig up the site, when all the work can be done by lightly cultivating the soil with a rake!

Autumn is a crucial time of year for a beginning gardener. The foundation of the future harvest is being laid right now.

In the fall, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The blocks will freeze, and with them the overwintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug layer, and moisture can freely seep deeper.

Cleaning up the garden is a good reason to organize compost heap. You can throw plant debris into it. But only those not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can be partially preserved in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. You should not throw weeds with already formed seeds into compost, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.

Autumn sowing

In order to carry out autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is what is required for winter crops).

Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But not in those places where in the spring the soil does not dry out for a long time or flooding occurs. Crops with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature is close to 2-3 °C. In the central regions of the Non-Black Earth Zone, this occurs in the second half of October - the first ten days of November. If sown too early, the seedlings may die from autumn frosts.

About root vegetables

If the weather is dry and not frosty, then you don’t have to rush to harvest root crops. After all, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further shelf life.

Carrots and other root vegetables intended for storage must be perfect: smooth, without mechanical damage or signs of disease. All “uglies” are used for canning and processing.

OUR TIPS

Onion sets less than 1 cm in diameter room conditions poorly preserved, dries quickly. It is better to plant it before winter.

For winter sowing of small seedlings, ridges are made and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between the rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs - 15-20 cm.

Plantings are mulched with peat in a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.

Average and late varieties white cabbage Most often they are removed in one go. Cabbage intended for fresh storage is harvested at a later date (but is not allowed to freeze). Short-term frosts (4-5 °C) will not harm the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.

Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.

For planting, select the largest cloves, which are located with outside bulbs. It is better not to use those in the center for planting. Planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. Clove from clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Row spacing is wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. Yes, and it’s more convenient to care for it.

IMPORTANT!

On small areas can be sown in frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.

In this case, sprinkle the seeds with dry soil, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.

The seed sowing rate before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.

The planting depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).

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The time has come to prepare the garden for winter, and today we’ll talk about exactly that... How we prepare the garden for winter in Natural Farming! How to carry out winter planting of vegetables, flowers and herbs! What work needs to be done to restore soil fertility! Let's remember Warm and High Compost Beds! So, let's begin...

Let's remember what needs to be done in the fall in order to increase soil fertility:

1. We don’t dig the soil! Under no circumstances should we dig up the area; we leave the soil untouched.

2. We do not remove the tops from the site and do not burn them! We leave all plant debris in the beds. All tops from vegetables and flowers... Be it tomato or potato tops, cucumber or squash, beet or carrot tops... We leave absolutely all leftovers in the garden.

3. We sow green manure! Immediately at the moment we harvest, we sow green manure in the vacant bed. We leave the green manures uncut in the winter. And before winter we sow additional Winter Rye!

4. Cover the soil! Not a single piece of land should be left bare during the winter! If you haven’t sown green manure, then cover the beds with a thick layer of mulch: leaf litter or straw are perfect for this! If this is not the case, then spread your own manure! animals, and cover the top with cardboard! We use rabbit manure and chicken manure...

5. Make warm or high compost beds!

6. Start a compost pile!

If we don’t make warm beds or compost beds! We need compost, so we give it Special attention. If we have ready-made compost, we spread it around the garden: under bushes, trees, and just in the beds. But this is too labor-intensive, so it’s easier to compost organic matter directly in the beds...

How and when to do it correctly? In the fall, as I already said, you can plant almost all plants! Starting from trees and ending with vegetables. Winter crops carried out two weeks before severe frosts. Then, when no warmth is expected, the soil is frozen, and it’s only going to get colder ahead! For the Perm region this is from mid-October to mid-November. We rely on forecasts from weather forecasters.

To do this, we prepare the furrows in September, while the soil is warm. And in cold weather we sow seeds, sprinkle them with compost or coconut substrate, or rotted straw. If we didn’t have time to make grooves in the heat, then don’t despair.

If the soil is already frozen, and you suddenly decide to sow something before winter, then you can sow on frozen soil, and sprinkle on top with loose, fertile soil that does not become crusty. As a last resort use purchased soil. And on top we mulch this furrow with a layer of rotted straw, a layer of at least 5 cm! The rest of the bed, where nothing was sown, must be mulched with a thick layer of mulch of at least 20-30 cm!

If groundwater close to the surface of the earth and the area is flooded, and the soil is heavy clay, then there is no need to dig a trench! Let's do warm bed right on the surface of the earth! If the soil is sandy and there is always a lack of moisture, you will have to dig a trench 40 cm deep.

You can put together a box and install it in the garden bed. And we fill this box layer by layer with organic matter. At the bottom we put logs touched by fungus, rotten ones... Or large branches, but then we chop them with a shovel...

The next layer is again carbonaceous: old planks, straw, old hay, leaves, cardboard... And on top of this layer is again nitrogenous: food waste, manure, vegetable tops... so, a few more layers. In total, the organic layer must be at least 80 cm! Each layer also needs to be trampled down...

When laying such ridges in the autumn, it is important to spill the organic matter with water. The logs that we place on the bottom can be pre-soaked in water if they are dry... But usually we carry them from the forest, and the forest is always humid!

Microorganisms are better if they are local and adapted! There are enough of them in algae, in logs, in forest litter, in muddy slurry from the bottom of a ravine... Therefore, there is no need to buy EM preparations...

We cover the top of such a bed with inverted cut turf or a layer fertile soil, and on top of it we sow green manure and sprinkle it with rotted straw! That is, this ridge should also not be empty in winter! Green manure sown in the fall will revive the garden bed and start the process!

And such a bed will be filled with a huge number of microorganisms and worms over the winter, and in early spring It will be ready for planting! Before others! It is full of nutrients and is ready to feed and warm our crops!

Instructions

The first thing you need to understand is that the soil should under no circumstances go into the winter open and plowed (dug up).

Why? The very first rain (and this is not uncommon in the fall), thoroughly soaking the carefully loosened soil, will turn it into liquid mud, and then into a monolith, clogging all the pores and small holes. Spring flood waters, not finding the opportunity to seep deeper through this “asphalt” and not encountering obstacles on their way, will flow out of your site, taking with them the upper fertile layer, eroding even small slopes.

How to protect the soil in the fall and get it loose and soft in the spring?

One of effective ways is soil mulching. What is "mulching"? Mulch is any substrate with which we cover the soil. It may consist of organic matter: straw, bark and shavings from trees, sawdust, nuts, seed husks, lawn grass, weeds, small twigs, newspapers, cardboard, peat, compost. And also mulch can be of an inorganic nature: fine gravel, marble and granite screenings, brick chips, covering synthetic materials(, lutrasil, spunbond, geotextile).

If you have the opportunity, cover the beds in October-November with straw, sawdust, weeds (only without seeds), and peat. If these materials are not available, then simply cover the ground with multilayer sheets of newspaper, magazines, and cardboard.

For fun, in the spring you can compare two beds that have emerged from winter. On the one that was covered, the soil was soft, porous, loose, without a hint of being washed away by spring waters. The soil in the second, uncovered bed will be dense, “concreted”, with clear signs descended stormy water.

“Siderata” are plants sown in order to increase soil fertility, protect it from weeds, and rid it of diseases and pests.

How do green manures work in the fall? Some of them gain good green mass by November (mustard, rapeseed, oats, peas) and, freezing in winter, act as mulch, i.e. cover the ground with a soft carpet, rotting in the spring and introducing additional organic matter and minerals into the soil, which green manures carried from the depths of the arable layer.

Other perennials (rye, alfalfa, sainfoin, lupine) also act as a protective carpet, but in the spring they continue to develop, pierce the ground with their roots, creating a system of capillaries and passages that allow air and moisture to freely penetrate into the soil. Due to this, soil microorganisms, worms, bacteria, and fungi multiply rapidly. All of them create a soil that increases soil fertility. Spring waters flow freely into the depths. There is no trace of erosion. The thick green mass of green manure in the spring provides an abundance of organic mulch, which covers the beds.

Substances released by some green manures repel pests and prevent diseases from developing.

Next year's harvest directly depends on how you prepare the planting soil for winter.

Everyone knows well what to achieve good harvest— the soil needs to be fertilized. This is right! BUT!
The main “But” is that preparing the soil for winter, as well as enriching it with nutrients, must be done correctly and in a timely manner.
Let's not dwell on it now correct crop rotation crops in the garden, but let's talk in detail about how to properly, and most importantly, without much labor, prepare our garden for wintering and lay the foundation for the future harvest.

First I will name a few misconceptions that provide us extra work and do not give the desired result when carrying out autumn work.

1. For the winter, the garden must be dug up or plowed - OPTIONAL, even completely undesirable.

Firstly, digging up a garden with a shovel is difficult; ordering plowing with horses or a tractor is expensive. Secondly, by turning over an earthen ball with a shovel or plow to a depth of 20-30 cm, you disrupt the natural microbial-biological balance of the fertile soil layer. It is 20-30 cm of the top layer of soil that is the most fertile; in this layer, at different depths, the corresponding bacteria live, which make the soil fertile. By turning it over, you upset the balance, thereby killing most of your micro helpers. You may ask, what should we do? How to loosen the soil so that it is not rocky in the spring. There is a way out and it is very simple. We turn to the origins of agriculture and remember that our ancestors initially cultivated the land with a hoe. You say - degradation, why return to the old. Nowadays, there is an excellent analogue of this tool, which has proven itself excellent among gardeners who prefer “ Organic farming" - this is Fokina. The tool itself is not tricky, but very easy to use. Its characteristics and properties can be read in the article “Fokina Flat Cutter”.

Let's look at what we can achieve by cultivating the soil for winter using a flat cutter. The soil is loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm, which at first glance may seem small, but do not rush to conclusions. During soil cultivation, weed roots are cut at a depth where there is a transitional “plant neck”, damage to which prevents the roots from germinating again. The flat cutter is very easy to use - no back pain. At correct positioning cuttings, using a flat cutter you can process 1 hectare of soil in 30 minutes. (with a shovel - this is not realistic).
2. When cultivating the soil before winter, be sure to select weeds - OPTIONAL and even harmful. Weeds are still the same “green masa”, which, when rotted, is an excellent organic fertilizer. We are used to doing how? They dug up, took out the weeds, transferred them to heaps, piled them up, and watered them with special organic matter for rotting and composting. Then in the spring, when it’s rotten, we take it back to the garden and scatter it. All this is extra and unnecessary work! All you need to do is, when cultivating the soil with a flat cutter, leave the weeds lying where you cut them.
3. In winter, you need to add manure or other organic fertilizers to the soil so that they rot there over the winter - OPTIONAL, but it won’t be superfluous. To do this, you need to spend money and buy an impressive pile of humus, then make an effort and spend time scattering it around the area. Fresh humus will burn upper layer bacteria needed for soil. The layering of the soil is already damaged, as a result of digging, the upper bacteria have died, there is simply no one to process the humus, more than half of the bacteria that should do this have died. Over the winter, humus will be washed away in unprocessed form by soil and surface waters. What I suggest in return is to simply leave the cut weeds on the ground; over the winter they will rot and provide you organic fertilizer absolutely free.

In a nutshell, if we describe what we do in our garden, it is DEPLETION OF THE SOIL, and then we artificially try to restore it to produce a new harvest, then we wonder why nothing works, we get angry and regret the wasted effort, time and money.
And we just received nature’s response to our vandalism to its wealth.
What have we done from Nature's point of view?
- turned the soil over and ruined it biological structure
- killed half of the necessary microorganisms and bacteria
- burned with fertilizer those bacteria that survived digging
— they left the bare soil for the winter, which killed the remaining bacteria that survived after the first two actions.
This is what our garden work looks like to prepare the soil for winter from the point of view of “Organic farming”.

Now, for comparison, I will describe what would be enough to do to ensure a good harvest next year.
These works will not require much effort, will not cost money - they will save the Earth.

“Nature's Miracle” will do all the work for you.
1. Cultivate an area of ​​soil with a flat cutter
2. Leave the weeds where they were cut
3. Cover the treated area of ​​soil with cut branches of trees and bushes or other “green” residues and waste that remain after harvesting.

ALL!

Why is everything so simple? What will happen? And what is the “Miracle of Nature”?
— the soil structure remained undisturbed, but loosened to provide oxygen to microorganisms and bacteria
- weeds are destroyed
— preserved bacteria and microorganisms received food for “wintering” (your weeds)
- the “green” material with which you covered the treated soil for the winter will provide warmth for your “micro helpers”, who will make your soil more fertile over the winter.
In the spring, all you have to do is remove the non-rotten branches from the area - and oh MIRACLE!

Your plot is clean, free of weeds, and the soil on it is loose and fertile, warmed under a layer of organic matter and ready for planting. You don't need to process it additionally.
Why is the soil loose? It's simple, the preserved microorganisms and bacteria, which you left food for and additionally supplied with oxygen, worked hard all winter. As a result of the process of decay of organic matter, carbon dioxide was produced, which loosened the soil.

Compare the labor costs and capital costs in each of the above methods of preparing the soil for winter and draw a conclusion for yourself.
Which is better? Cooperate with Nature or go against it?

Have a good harvest and harmony!

A good assistant in soil enrichment mineral fertilizers which is not difficult to follow.

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