Water from precipitation and melting snow must be drained both from the surface of the roof and from the entire building. Modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of products that satisfy the needs of any homeowner or developer. The presented systems are characterized by simple installation, are characterized by long-term trouble-free operation, and have great design and a variety of colors.

Having initial knowledge and following installation rules drainage system, even a novice master can perform the work. The instructions available from all manufacturers are of great importance during installation.

Design features and types of roof drainage

A drain is a structure consisting of gutters and pipes. The diametric cross-section of its parts is selected in accordance with the volume of wastewater exerting pressure on the roof.

Special brackets and hooks are used to attach gutters to the building. The pipes are connected to the gutters using funnels, and the pipes are fixed to the walls of the house using clamps.

The drain consists of different elements that are selected in accordance with the exterior of the house:

• Corner elements are used to join the parts of the gutters in the corners of the building.
• Plugs and gutter connection elements.
• Using a pipe elbow, pipes are connected at a bend.
• Pipe ends add a finished look to the entire structure.

Shapes and sizes

Parts of the drainage system may have a rectangular or round shape. The parameters of the elements are determined by the area of ​​the roof, with the gutter width in most cases varying from 10 to 20 cm, and the pipe cross-section from 7.5 to 12 cm.

In most cases, plastic or metal gutters are produced. Galvanized iron is not used due to its poor resistance to water. Sometimes you can find copper, titanium or zinc gutters, but the cost of such structures is very high.

The type and layout of the drainage system is determined at the design stage of the house. The main condition is that the structure must uninterruptedly perform its assigned task and be an integral part of the overall exterior of the building.

When installing a drainage system yourself, you need to take several points into account:

• The amount of precipitation that falls during the year in a region.
• Materials used for the facade and roof, as well as their colors.
• Roof dimensions and type.
• Architectural features Houses.

Before installing roof gutters, be sure to read the instructions from the system manufacturer.

Location of the drainage system and tools used

Drain pipes are located depending on the size of the roof overhang. If this parameter is less than 10 meters, one drain is installed. If the size of the overhang exceeds 10 meters, then two drains are installed.

Assembling a drainage system with your own hands is carried out with the following tools:

• Tape measure, string and marker or pencil.
• Scissors for cutting metal.
• A device used to bend hooks.
• Level.
• Rivet pliers.
• Screwdriver or drill.
• Hammer and rubber mallet.

How to assemble gutters with your own hands - step-by-step guide

When answering the question of how to properly assemble a drainage system, it should be noted that installation work require sequential execution of all actions.

1. At the first stage of work, hooks are installed. These elements can be short, long and adjustable. The hooks are attached to the bottom board of the sheathing, to or on the rafter leg. Each fastening is performed with a separate type of hook.
   
2. The angle of inclination of the hooks is calculated; ideally, this parameter is 3 mm per linear meter. The hooks need to be laid out side by side, numbered and the fold line marked. Using a device for bending hooks, bend along the mark.
   
   
3. When fixing the first hook, pay attention to the following: the outer side of the gutter should be located at a distance of no more than 2.5 cm from the visual continuation of the roof.
   
4. A gap of about 90 cm is maintained between the hooks, tilting the system by 3 mm for each linear meter of the roof. Installation of the outer hooks is carried out at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge of the roof.
   
   
   When installing hooks on a rafter leg or sheathing batten, you should make a cut to align the surfaces of the element and the attachment points.
   
   
5. To insert the funnel into the gutter, you need to make cuts. To do this, make a mark with a pencil or marker and make a slot with a hacksaw. Use pliers to give the funnel the appropriate shape and remove burrs.
   
   
   The metal at the cut site must be treated with paint or a composition to protect against corrosion. First you need to attach the funnel with outside gutters, and then secure with a special clamp on the inside.
   
   
   Before installing gutters, you need to place a plug on the end of each gutter, pressing it with your hands or pinning it rubber mallet. The finished drain is laid by lightly pressing the gutter near each hook.
   
   It is very important that the constituent elements of the system are attached to the gutter before the final installation of the gutter system on the roof.
6. The gutters need to be connected to each other using connecting locks, so when installing, there must be a free gap of about 3 mm between the end ends. The sealing part is coated with sealant, drawing lines in the central and side parts. The back of the lock is then attached to inner part gutters and press the entire part, moving towards the outer part of the structure. The lock is snapped into place, secured with clamping parts.
   
   
7. Similar actions are performed during the installation of corner elements at the bend points of the drainage system. In both cases, the gap left acts as an expansion joint that prevents destruction or deformation of the drain.

   

8. The work is carried out according to the installation diagram of the drainage system. Pipe elements are attached to the walls using clamps spaced at 2-meter intervals, and they, in turn, are fixed with dowels.
   
   Drains should be fixed no closer than 4 cm to the wall. The pipes should be cut with a hacksaw, but remember not to make a cut from the narrower side.

Connection and fastening of drainage system pipes

When assembling a drainage system, it is sometimes necessary to connect two elbows. To do this, perform the following steps: determine the distance between them and add 10 cm. These additional centimeters ensure that the connecting element fits into the end ends of the knees, 5 cm on each side.

The given instructions on how to assemble a drainage system are a description of the main stages of the work. All installation details are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, since each product has its own characteristics.

One of the final stages of building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from precipitation and prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowledge of the design and installation rules of gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has remained virtually unchanged over the years - the main components still remain gutters and risers in the form of vertically located pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is on a grand scale, and today you can purchase ready-made elements for any, even the most complex systems, if only material possibilities allow.

After necessary calculations acquire the required number of parts, then fold them according to the principle of a designer and install them according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to the indicated elements, the installation kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build the structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of drains based on material of manufacture

Before purchasing and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer element sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

• design– drawing up a diagram, selecting components, calculations;
• assembly of the water intake part of the system– mainly horizontal elements;
• installation of risers, directing precipitation into.

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 – design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roofing surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be removed in full, the following points should be clarified:

• Number of drainage gutters. A gable roof has two of them, and a hip roof has four, connected into a continuous contour for a more efficient drainage system. If there are more slopes, then there is a gutter under each one.
• Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are placed at the corners of the job - there can be 2,3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
• Bracket type. Usually two types are used: long ones are mounted on the sheathing, even before laying the final roofing covering, and short ones are fixed on the front board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
• Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered drainage, gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

The location of the risers largely determines whether the system can cope with the drainage of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

To correctly install funnels and compensators, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, angle of inclination, total roof area

Don't forget about aesthetic side and ease of use - drainpipes should not protrude far forward from the facade, go out onto pedestrian paths or used local area.

Calculations are made individually; there are no universal offers.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

• the length of the gutters will be calculated based on the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm for linear expansion for every 12 m;
• connecting elements for gutters are selected based on standard length one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
• the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - another funnel or compensator;
• the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; don’t forget about additional ones - for funnels;
• length drainpipes determined by the height of the walls minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
• the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - at intervals of 1.2-1.5 from them.

A couple more important sizes that must be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the drainpipes.

Due to the protruding eaves, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve this, use elbows, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the facade

If the area of ​​the slope does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage #2 – installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets that usually support gutters, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing covering to expose the sheathing.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, fix short hooks to front side cornice trim.

The holders are secured in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, to a maximum of 2/3 of its width

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric runoff over the edge, as well as the accumulation of snow.

The brackets are mounted in the following order:

• preliminary fitting and selection of length/installation location;
• determining the angle of inclination towards the drainage funnel;
• bending of holders;
• installation of extreme brackets;
• installation of other elements along a pre-tensioned cord.

After installing the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, we place it in the right place against the gutter, outline the outline, then remove it and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel to the hole.

To seal the connection, coat an area 0.5-0.7 cm wide with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply applied from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with an already fixed funnel. Then the next one joins him, and so on until top point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also coated with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at the extreme points that do not end in funnels.

Installation of short brackets is done differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the front board. The fastening element has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a slight protrusion beyond the cornice, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage #3 – installation of drainpipes

Assembly of the riser begins from the top part - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installing elbows: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to maintain the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the coupling connectors

Starting from the funnel and the joint of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps to secure the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with the clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, clamps modern systems With inside equipped with a dense rubber seal.

The purpose of the roof over the house does not need to be explained. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the roof slopes, water inevitably ends up on the walls and foundation. As a result, they deteriorate very quickly load-bearing elements building structures.

You can avoid the destructive effects of water by installing a roof drainage system. Before we begin the master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage system has two classification criteria that determine its installation technology:

1. According to the manufacturing method - homemade, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade roof drain. This system is supported by facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual drain with your own hands. Manufacturing homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted according to a user-friendly scheme. An absolute drawback is the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly rots. Among the shortcomings are the difficulty of joining individual elements and mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method involves maintaining all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can dock without problems various elements from different supplies from the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the installation method, there are adhesive systems (installation occurs using glue) and adhesive-free systems (installation using rubber seals).

Advantages of plastic gutters:

• immunity to ultraviolet radiation. A high-quality plastic drainage system will not fade during its entire service life;

• not subject to corrosion;

• The adhesive system does not require maintenance, as the " cold welding» during which the connection of elements occurs at the molecular level;

• strength;

• light weight;

• operating temperature -40°С +70°С;

• ease of installation;

• availability of different colors;

• A wide variety of components allows you to create a drainage system of the desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

• plastic may break due to mechanical stress. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed on high-rise buildings. A plastic drainage system is installed only on a low-rise private house;

• unsuitable for repair. A destroyed element cannot be restored;

• plastic system drainage system with rubber seals requires periodic replacement of seals, which entails disassembly/assembly of elements;

• high coefficient of linear expansion.

Drainage system from metal profile has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with polymer coating (painted). The main difference between them: cost and duration of operation. The appearance is shown in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

• strength;

• reliability;

• withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;

• do not support combustion;

• operating temperature -60°С +130°С;

• dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

• high price;

• significant weight of the entire system;

• complexity of installation;

• small selection of colors;

• the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (exception is a copper drainage system);

• a small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90°.

It is difficult to answer unequivocally which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, it all depends on the specific operating conditions and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the perspective of this classification, we will consider how to properly install a drainage system with your own hands.

Installation of a drainage system - instructions

Like any construction process, the technology for installing gutters includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems depending on their throughput. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and the gutter. Clear system round section 125/100 and square section - in the photo.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own sizes of gutters and pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to connect systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is necessary so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

Choosing a drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

• find out the maximum precipitation level in your region;

• calculate the area of ​​the slope (S). Not all of them, but the largest in size. It is its size that will determine the choice of gutter

S = (A+B/2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs(the slope angle does not exceed 10°) the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

Once the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or plane diagrams with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

Let us illustrate with the example of a house how to calculate the amount of materials for installing a drainage system.

Gutter - semicircular (semicircular cross-section) and rectangular ( rectangular section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is secured with hooks and brackets, which are installed in increments of 60-90 cm, ensuring a slope of the gutter of at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the roof base. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Gutter sizes - sold individually in 3 and 4 m.p.

For a house the size of our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meter - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the whole length of the gutter. The fewer connections, the simpler, more reliable and cheaper the installation will be.

• Gutter angles (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Installation method: mounted on external and internal corners roofs.

We will need 4 external corners and 2 internal ones, all with an angle of 90 degrees.

If a house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. Various angles can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves under the right angle. The parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

• Gutters, connectors, gutter caps.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. There can be 5 or 17 connectors. Depending on the installation features specific system. In most gutter systems, the corners are attached directly to the gutter. But in some - using a connector.

In drainage systems where installation is carried out using glue, you need to use conventional connectors and compensation ones.

Compensation is installed when the roof length is more than 8 m.p. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. This connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the gutter during heating/cooling. For our example, 4 regular connectors and one expansion connector would be needed.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 m.p. gutters. If the wall is longer, you need to install two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 lm.

• Gutter fastening hooks.

Hooks can be long or short. The first ones are designed for hanging the gutter on the rafters and are attached before installation roofing material. The second (short) ones are used to attach the gutter to the front board; therefore, installation on a finished roof is possible, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. At the same time, installation near corners, funnels, plugs and at joints is mandatory. In our example there are 68 hooks.

• Drainpipes (for vertical drainage), pipe fastenings/brackets.

The pipe can be round or rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed for attaching the pipe to the wall. According to the installation method, they distinguish between “on stone” (for fixing on brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixation using hardware) and “on wood” (for fixing on wooden walls (beams, logs, OSB). Fixation using self-tapping screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation locations. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 m. You need to round up, since joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if your house height is 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or for other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation near the knees is mandatory.

• Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the structure of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) you need two universal elbows (total 8) and one drain (total 4).

The distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be taken into account when calculating.

Installation of a plastic (PVC) drainage system

1. Installation of drainage funnels (roofing, storm drains, water inlet) on the roof.

The gutter fastening hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination relative to the funnel is 2° or 3-4 mm. by 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope using a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more advisable to install the gutter in the following ways:

• Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
• Double slope: “from the middle” or “towards the middle”.

In the first case, the middle gutter is at the highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, the two outer gutters are at the highest point and the water moves to the funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Installation of a regular and compensation gutter connector (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. At an equal distance from them.

4. Cut the gutter into pieces of the required length. It is advisable to clean the cut area.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is placed on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled in the desired location of the gutter using a crown.

Some manufacturers mark funnels in such a way as to simplify installation. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature outside, the gutter is installed at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements for which no glue is used during installation.

If provided, a sealing rubber is installed at the junction of the gutter and funnel.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be coated with glue or the joint must be sealed with an elastic band.

The expansion connector is installed without the use of glue.

Nuance. To ensure that water flows in a given direction, it is better to make a “tear drop” at the end of the drain pipe.

7. Installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out according to the same scheme.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or rubber seals.

8. Fastening clamps and installing drainpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

Pipe installation begins with installing an elbow (if necessary) or pipe into the funnel.

Glue or rubber seal is required.

Nuance. The lower pipe fits into the upper pipe with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall using a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is installed.

The ebb tide must be installed so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, low tide diverts water into a canal drainage system or directly into a drainage well.

Installation of a plastic drainage system - video

Installation of a metal drainage system

Step-by-step guide, instructions for installing gutters for a roof made of metal profiles with your own hands.

1. Installation of two extreme brackets.

They can be installed on rafter system or at cornice strip(frontal).

Advice. For normal outflow of water from the roof, the angle of inclination of the gutter towards the funnel should be 3-4 mm per 1.m.

The bracket is mounted using three self-tapping screws.

When the wall length is more than 10 m, a simple (straight) slope is performed. If the length is more than 10 m - double.

2. Open the gutters.

The saw area is cleaned with a file.

Advice. The saw moves in the “away” direction.

3. Cutting a hole for the funnel.

Advice. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the funnel.

A properly constructed roof reliably protects the building from moisture penetration into the residential attic or cold attic. Flowing down its slopes, water can fall on the walls and foundation of the building. To prevent this, the roofing system must be supplemented with an effective drainage system. To ensure the normal operation of such a system, it must be correctly calculated and installed. You can do all this yourself, but first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology for performing the work and the recommendations of specialists.

How to properly install roof gutters

Before you begin installing a drainage system, you need to decide whether you will buy industrial drains or make them yourself. If you have certain skills, then you can make all the elements of the drainage system yourself. Galvanized steel is usually used for this. But they resort to this method quite rarely, since in addition to certain abilities and experience, it will require a significant investment of time and labor. Much easier to buy finished goods and install them yourself.

Based on the material used, drainage systems are divided into two types.

1. Plastic drainage system. Its elements can be connected using glue or rubber seals. Plastic does not corrode, is lightweight, the elements are easy to install, and they are available in a wide variety of colors. Its disadvantages are that the mechanical strength is not very high, damaged plastic elements cannot be repaired, and if the connection is made using rubber parts, they will need to be changed periodically.

   Plastic drainage systems are widely used due to their resistance to corrosion, light weight and ease of installation.

2. Metal drainage system. For its manufacture, galvanized steel is usually used, which can be coated with a polymer; much less often, gutters are made of copper. The elements of such a system are highly durable, they can withstand heavy loads and have a low expansion coefficient. The disadvantages of such a system are its high cost, heavy weight and installation difficulties. If the protective polymer layer is damaged, rust begins to appear. Besides, hardware Available in a much smaller number of colors.

   A metal gutter system weighs more than a plastic one, but it has a longer service life

It cannot be said that one or another drainage system is better; it all depends on the operating conditions and the region in which the building is located. The plastic system has a large number of various elements, so it is more convenient to use when creating a system complex configuration. Metal gutters look beautiful and last a long time, but they are more difficult to install.

It is easier to install the drainage system before laying the roofing material. For correct execution This work must adhere to the following recommendations.

1. Installation must be performed at a certain temperature depending on the material:
   • plastic elements - more than 5 o C;
   • metal products coated with plastisol or ceramic granules - more than 10 o C;
   • metal treated with pural - 5 o C and above.
2. The gutter must be installed with a slope relative to the roof. It can be organized in one direction (for roof lengths less than 12 m) or in two directions. The standard slope should be 3–5 mm per 1 m of length towards the storm drain. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance between storm drains of no more than 24 m.

   If the length of the building is less than 12 m, then the slope of the gutters can be made in one direction, otherwise it is necessary to install gutters with a slope from the center of the wall to each of its corners

3. The holders should be located at the same distance from each other. For a plastic drain, the fastenings are installed after a maximum of 50 cm, and for a metal drain - after 60 cm. The holders begin to be installed from the top point and gradually move to the bottom.
4. The gutter should be positioned so that the edge of the roof protrudes 35–50% of its width.

   The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the roof plane, otherwise it may be torn off when the snow slides

5. Gutter elements can only be cut using the method recommended by the manufacturer. Plastic elements are cut with a fine-toothed hacksaw, metal elements are cut with a hacksaw. An angle grinder cannot be used for products with a polymer coating, since during its operation intense heating occurs and the coating is destroyed.

   Under no circumstances should you cut a polymer-coated gutter using a grinder.

6. Holders drain pipes should be installed at least every 2 m, and if the height of the house is more than 10 m - every 1.5 m.
7. It is necessary to connect the elements correctly and securely. Plastic parts are joined using glue, rubber seals and latches. Metal elements can be attached to each other with latches or rubber seals. The drain pipe should not reach 25–40 cm to the ground.

   When connecting gutters between them, it is necessary to leave an expansion gap for thermal expansion of the material

Do-it-yourself gutter installation

By doing self-installation drainage system will need the following set of tools:

Typically, the installation of a gutter system is carried out during the construction of a building, before laying the roofing material. Let us consider the sequence of performing these works in more detail.

1. Fastening the brackets in compliance with the slope and pitch of their installation.
2. Installation of funnels. These elements are located in those places where drain risers are installed. Funnels are also used to connect plastic gutters. In the place of the gutter where the funnel will be attached to it, make a hole and clean the edges well. Glue is used to fix the funnels. To prevent debris from falling into the drain pipe, a protective mesh is installed on the funnel, which must be periodically cleaned of debris.

   It is imperative to install a protective mesh on the funnel, otherwise the drain pipe will become clogged with debris.

3. Installation of gutters. These elements can be semicircular or rectangular. The brackets are selected depending on the shape of the gutters, after which they are simply put on the ready-made mounts. The edge of the drain that is not in use must be closed with a plug; its tightness is ensured by rubber seal. It is recommended to install brackets on both sides of the connection to avoid sagging of the drainage system.

   Depending on the type of gutter, the type of bracket is selected

4. Connection of drains. In order to connect two gutters together, special additional elements are used, which are placed on the ends of adjacent gutters. There should be a distance of about 3–5 mm between the gutters; it is necessary to ensure possible deformations of the elements. This is especially important for plastic parts, as they have a high expansion coefficient.
5. Installation of knees. Elbows, like gutters, can have a semicircular or rectangular shape and are selected in accordance with the shape of the installed drains. The elbow from below is put on the funnel; it will direct water into the drain pipe. It is necessary to select the required knee angle, although problems with this usually do not arise, since the choice of such elements is quite large.

   If the length of the elbow is not enough, then an additional piece of pipe is installed between it and the drain pipe

6. Installation of risers. The elbow is connected to the riser pipe and fixed with clamps to brackets installed on the wall of the building. If one pipe is not enough, it is extended by adding one or more elements of the required length.

   The maximum distance between riser fastenings cannot exceed 2 m

7. Installation of clamps. Typically, these elements are made in the form of two arcs that cover the pipe, after which they are fixed with bolts. To attach the clamp to wooden wall a pin is used, and for a brick one a dowel is used, for which a hole is first made.

   Clamps consist of two arcs that cover the pipe and tighten it using clamps

8. Drain installation. This element is final in its own way appearance it looks like a knee. The drain is installed at the very bottom of the pipe; with its help, the incoming water will be drained away from the foundation of the building. It is recommended that there be no more than 40 cm from the edge of the drain to the blind area.

Video: installing gutters

Installation of ebb tides

Of great importance for protecting the house from moisture is correct installation low tides on the windows. These are metal or plastic strips that are mounted on the outside of the house on the bottom of the window opening.

The sills are made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating or plastic

Each window must have a sill, which is also popularly called an external window sill. In addition to the fact that these elements protect the walls from moisture, they also give the house a beautiful and finished look.

The ebb installation sequence consists of several steps.

1. Taking measurements and determining required size low tide Galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of ebbs; it can also have polymer coating or plastic. Such an element must have a bend corresponding to the shape of the window near which it is installed, as well as bends on the sides and bottom. The ebb should protrude 3–5 cm beyond the wall and be inclined towards the street to ensure free flow of water through the lower drip. In order for the water to drain well and quickly, the slope should be about 10 o.

   The length of the ebb is standard, and its width is selected for each window sill separately

2. Clearing the installation site of debris.
3. Fixing the ebb using self-tapping screws to the lower window profile.

   To securely fix the ebb, screws are installed in increments of 40–45 cm

4. Filling the space between the window sill and ebb polyurethane foam, which, after hardening, firmly fixes this element and also provides reliable noise and heat insulation. During hardening, the ebb must be pressed with a heavy object so that the expanding foam does not lift it during the hardening process.

   The ebb tide should be tilted away from the window so that water drains away from it well.

5. Sealing the junction of the ebb and flow window frame using silicone sealant.

During installation of the ebb, you must ensure that its side bends go under the slopes so that water does not fall on the wall. It is recommended to install flashings before the external slopes are formed.

How to properly attach drainage system hooks

Before moving on to fixing the hooks, you need to make markings to ensure the angle of inclination of the drainage system. Thanks to the slope, water will flow towards the riser and be effectively removed from the roof.

Attaching long hooks

Installation of hooks under gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. This is due to the fact that they are installed under the roof and after it is laid, long hooks cannot be secured.

The installation sequence for long hooks will be as follows.

If only short hooks are available, then there is nothing to worry about. Their installation is carried out in a similar way, but if in the first case the hooks were attached to the sheathing or rafters, here they are fixed to the end plane or to the eaves board.

Short hooks can be installed after laying the roofing material

Short hooks are usually installed after the roof has been installed. Universal holders can also be used, which can be attached as both short and long hooks if necessary.

Video: features of hook installation

Common mistakes

If you do not approach the design and installation of a drainage system carefully, you can make certain mistakes due to which it will not be able to fully perform its functions:

• horizontal installation of gutters leads to the fact that water remains in the gutter, and in winter period it freezes there;
• a large release of roofing material above the gutter and leads to the fact that during heavy rainfall water does not enter the drainage basin;
• placing the drain pipe too close to the wall of the house causes the wall to constantly get wet;
• an insufficient number of brackets leads to sagging of the gutter, which causes water to accumulate in this place;
• poor-quality assembly violates the tightness of the structure, so water gets on the walls.

Installation of internal drains

The internal drainage system includes the following main elements:

• water intake funnel;
• riser;
• outlet pipe;
• release.

In order for this system to work at any time of the year, water intake funnels cannot be installed next to the outer walls of the house, otherwise winter time they will freeze.

Installation of the internal drain is carried out in a certain sequence.

1. Installation of funnels. If the floor slabs are already installed, then funnels can be installed. If there is no ceiling yet, then you need to start with the installation of risers. The funnel is connected to the riser using a compensation socket so that external deformations do not cause the connection to break.

   The internal drainage system is usually installed on flat roofs, where there is no natural drainage of water due to the slope of the slopes

2. Installation of risers and pipes to drain water from funnels. Pipes connecting funnels and risers must be laid with a slope. The diameter of the riser must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the funnel. If the diameter of the pipes is no more than 110 mm, then they come in coils and are launched from top to bottom. For larger sizes, pipes are installed from bottom to top. Risers are attached every 2–3 meters.

   Internal drainage risers should be fixed every 3 m maximum

3. Laying horizontal pipelines. Their installation is carried out in the same way as sewer pipes, but the slope is about 2–8 mm per meter. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, cleaning is installed every 10 m, and if their diameter is 100–150 mm, then after 15 m.

   Horizontal pipes for internal drainage are installed in the same way as sewer pipes, but with a smaller slope

Internal drainage systems can be of the following types:

• gravity - water is collected and discharged through gutters located on a slope. Such a system is only partially filled with water;
• siphon - completely filled with water, which enters the funnel and then into the riser. Due to the resulting vacuum, water is forced to be removed, so this method is more effective.

Video: how to install a water inlet funnel

An external roof water drainage system can be:

• unorganized. In this case, the water drains randomly; this method is usually used for small outbuildings;
• organized. The water is collected in gutters and then transported outside the building through drain pipes.

When creating an external drain, gutters are secured using special brackets, which you can make yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones.

When creating an external drain, the gutters should be mounted at a slope, this will ensure effective removal of water coming from the roof. It is not difficult to create an external drainage system with your own hands. Now all the necessary elements are on sale. It is enough to draw up a diagram and calculate how many and what elements are needed, after which you can simply and quickly install them.

It is quite possible to install an external drainage system with your own hands, because all the necessary components are available for sale to facilitate this process

Installation of an external drainage system is carried out in the following order.

1. Calculation required quantity materials. You need to decide on the number of holders, gutters, drain pipes and elbows.
2. Marking places for attaching hooks. After the attachment points are marked, the hooks are bent to the required angle and fixed.
3. Preparing places for funnels. Holes for funnels are prepared in the gutters, after which they are fixed.

   During installation, all connections must be made airtight so that water from pipes and gutters does not fall on the walls of the house

4. Laying gutters. The gutters with installed funnels are placed in holders and fixed.
5. Installation of drain pipes. They are mounted on the wall using special brackets.
6. Connection of drain pipes and funnels. Using elbows with the required angle of inclination, a connection is made between the drain pipe and the funnel.

   For the funnel, a hole is made in the gutter, the edges of which are well cleaned to create a tight connection

A properly executed external drainage system reliably protects the roof, walls and foundation of a building from water penetration. During the cold season, frequent thaws may cause the drain pipes to freeze, so water will not be removed effectively. To avoid this problem, you can install heating for these elements. For this purpose, a self-regulating or resistive cable, which is attached to gutters and pipes. Passing along the cable electricity causes it to heat up, as a result of which the elements of the drainage system remain warm, so the water in them does not freeze.

Video: heating gutters and drain pipes

The main requirements for a drainage system are the removal of water from the roof of the house, as well as high strength, tightness and a long service life. It is necessary to expect that such a system can withstand heavy loads; in winter, a large amount of ice can accumulate on it. In order for a self-installed system to meet all requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate it, and then carry out installation in compliance with the developed technologies.

Currently, traditional metal gutters are increasingly being replaced by modern plastic systems, which are considered more practical and reliable. Although all previous installation stages are retained during installation, much less time and effort is spent on this.

Features of polyvinyl chloride drainage

From a constructive point of view, a plastic drainage system is practically no different from a metal one. Products produced in industrial conditions are equipped with the same set of components intended for arranging horizontal and vertical branches.

The procedure for assembling and installing gutters includes the same number of steps and a similar sequence of operations. At the same time, during manufacturing and installation PVC structures It is impossible not to take into account the specifics of the material of manufacture. Products on polymer based usually have characteristic dimensional instability, which depends on temperature fluctuations.

When plastic parts are heated, they elongate; cooling helps to return to its previous geometric dimensions. Gutters that are used outdoors will be cooled in winter and heated in summer. As a result, they either lengthen or shorten. Try to save linear dimensions polymer products in a stable state are practically useless. You simply have to adapt to this phenomenon, taking it into account during the design and installation of gutters.

PVC drainage circuits are equipped with special compensators and connectors. With their help, fluctuations in the sizes of its individual components are achieved harmlessly for the system as a whole. Thus, it becomes possible for them to move in one direction or another.

Polymers also have another important property, which requires mandatory consideration when installing plastic roof gutters (more details: " "). The point is that PVC products of a certain length begin to sag and deform if support is not provided under them. To avoid sagging of sufficiently flexible plastic gutters, special holders are mounted under them with a pitch of at least 60 cm.

If this is not done, there is a high probability of sagging of horizontal sections in the spaces between the supports. This phenomenon is usually provoked either by one’s own weight or by the load from precipitation. As a rule, the places where the deflections begin to gradually become overgrown with dirt and accumulate water. When frost sets in, these areas become especially dangerous, as they can burst from freezing.

How to assemble and install a drainage system

Installation work on the construction of PVC gutters is carried out in a strict sequence of individual operations.

A short list of operations carried out in this case is as follows:

1. Drafting. Under development simple circuit, which takes into account optimal parameters and the number of main components of the drainage system. It is also important to consider mounting components.
2. Assembly and installation of the water intake. It consists of a gutter and a funnel designed to receive precipitation. The water intake part collects them from the roof, directing them along the drain risers.
3. Assembly and installation of the drainage system. It consists of drainage risers, the task of which is to direct water flows to the desired part of the blind area or inside storm sewer.

The installation of gutters always starts from the top, moving downwards. This implies the first assembly and installation of the water intake part, to which the drain risers are subsequently connected. As work progresses, it is important to observe a strict sequence of installation stages. The reason for such scrupulousness lies in the technological specifics of the system and technical features manufacturing material.

When developing a project for arranging a drainage system, it is important to strictly adhere to certain technological requirements: only in this way can high-quality removal of precipitation from the roof surface be achieved.

The following must be taken into account:

1. Optimal shape of gutters. On gable roofs, two separate gutters are most often installed. For equipment hipped structures The installation of a continuous type gutter, consisting of several parts, is used. Its construction is carried out using corner connecting elements.
2. Number of risers. The risers of polymer gutters are installed every 12 m. If the gutter, which usually follows the size of the eaves, is longer than 12 m, you will need to use a pair of risers. In this case, standard water inlet funnels are supplemented with a compensating funnel.
3. The feasibility of using compensating funnels. They are usually used in cases where the total length of the gutter exceeds 12 m, or when technical difficulties arise with expansion (usually due to the walls of neighboring buildings, if they are located end-to-end). In addition, compensating funnels are often equipped with a continuous drainage system along the perimeter of the roof.
4. Selection of gutter holders. Installation of drainpipes is carried out using hook-shaped brackets of various lengths. Long holders are attached to the sheathing before the covering is laid. Fixing short elements on the frontal board can be done at any convenient time. This is often done upon completion of roofing work.
5. Gutter slope. This parameter is affected by the brand of the system used. Manufacturers usually recommend a slope of 2-5 mm, based on 1 linear meter. The slope should be constructed in the direction where the water intake funnel is located. For these purposes, brackets offset in height are used.

It is strongly recommended to determine the installation points of the risers at the design stage. At the same time, the visual perception of the exterior composition should not suffer. Most often they are mounted on the corners of the building. Another option for their placement could be a niche created by a bay window or the center of the wall: this is done in cases where the receiving point of the storm sewer system is located there.

If atmospheric water is discharged onto the blind area, then the risers must be placed so that pedestrian paths, ventilation vents and entrances to basements are not affected. Design drainage systems for frame buildings- a more difficult task, since it will require the orientation of vertical lines along the load-bearing frame posts. The same applies to buildings covered with siding.

How to calculate drainage elements

Determining the required number of elements required for the construction of a drainage system takes into account the characteristics of each specific case. Increasingly, when constructing private houses, they are trying to use original designs, which leaves a certain imprint on the calculation of roofing and drainage systems. However, certain calculation templates make the calculations much easier.

There is a very simple scheme for calculating drainage gable roof, where the length of the slopes does not exceed 12 m:

• Gutters. Their footage should correspond to the length of the cornices. The linear thermal expansion of these elements will not encounter any obstacles, so the parameters of compensatory expansions can be omitted in this case.
• Trough connectors. Since the gutters are 3 m long, each 12-meter line is equipped with 3 connectors.
• Pair of funnels. By the number of gutters.
• Brackets. To calculate the number of hooks, you need to divide the length of the cornice into equal parts, not exceeding 60 cm. Before this, you will need to make an indent of 50 mm from the edge.
• Additional brackets. The funnel installed on the corner of the building is equipped with another additional holder. If the funnel is placed in the center of the wall, two such holders will be required.
• Two pairs of gutter plugs. Each branch is decorated with two plugs.
• Upper and lower knees, 2 pcs. Riser outlets are constructed from them.
• Two short pipes to connect the knees. They are used if the eaves overhangs exceed the parameter of 25 cm. Pipe sections are measured and cut at the installation site. If the width of the eaves overhang is less than 25 cm, the knees are connected directly to each other.
• Pipes for risers. To determine their length, measure the distance from the eaves to the ground. In this case, the length of the drainage outlet and drain is subtracted. The ground surface and the riser must be separated by at least 20 cm.
• Mounting brackets. Two of them are required: one - on the lower elbow, the second - on the riser drain. The remaining fasteners are used to form each connection of the drainage system, in increments of at least 150 cm. Read also: "".

To calculate the drainage diagram of a house with an attic, the same method is used. The same applies to equipping multi-tiered pitched roofs with drains, where each slope is calculated separately. To determine the number of elements and fasteners for half-hip and hip roof, you will have to face additional difficulties. In this case, you will need to purchase at least four corner parts and two compensator connectors. Compensating and connectors function on the same principle as linear elements. However, in this case, such compensators must be installed in each closed circuit.

At this same stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the future structure. Gutter components are produced in a number of standard sizes to avoid overflowing as precipitation is drained. As they say technical recommendations, each m2 of roofing must be equipped with drainpipes with a cross-section of 1.5 cm square. This coefficient is averaged for the central regions of our country. To accurately select the standard size of the drainage system, you first need to determine how much roof area one funnel can serve. Since private houses rarely have a slope area of ​​more than 80 m2, most often pipes with a cross-section of 100 mm are used to install gutters, with the possibility of adjusting this parameter in one direction or another.

Installation of drains, gutters and pipes using an example

For simplicity, it is better to understand specific example, in which the drain is mounted on long metal brackets after laying the roofing material. Thanks to the use of cement tiles, it is possible to dismantle the bottom row of installation.

In our case, the installation of gutters of the drainage system will be carried out on two separate slopes 12 m long. The gable overhangs in this example will have a width of 50 cm. The funnel is mounted in such a way that the riser attached to it is 10 cm from the corner.

First, the long brackets are fixed:

1. Perform preliminary fitting, with the extreme holder attached to the installation site.
2. Fold line drawing. In this case, the roofing covering should extend onto the gutter by approximately 1/3. Once the required point is found, the bracket leg is equipped with a mark.
3. Determination of inclination in relation to the funnel. If it is necessary to slope each meter of the cornice by 3 mm, the total height is determined by multiplying 3 mm by 12. The resulting parameter of 36 mm shows the difference in the height of the bends on the extreme hooks.
4. Drawing a fold line. This is done by laying out the required number of brackets in one line, with an inclined line on their legs.
5. Numbering of marked brackets.
6. Bending of gutter holders. The easiest option is to use a vice. Work must be carried out carefully to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer.
7. Fastening the two outer holders to the surface of the sheathing.
8. Stretch one or two control lines between them. One of them is used to indicate the bottom, the second indicates the top points.
9. Installation of the remaining brackets along stretched lines.

This stage is the most difficult. Next, prepare the gutter and funnel for installation. To do this, a fitting is carried out on the section of the gutter on which the riser will be attached using a funnel. To determine the exact location for making the hole for the funnel, it is placed over the gutter.

After outlining the contours of the funnel with a marker, the niche is cut out using a hacksaw, followed by cleaning the cut edges with sandpaper. To secure the funnel to the gutter, special snap-on sides are provided.

We build a drainage riser

First, you need to assemble the transition between the horizontal and vertical sections of the drainage system. If there are narrow cornices, it is enough to connect the upper and lower bends.

Wide cornices will require additional work:

1. Connecting the funnel pipe to the upper elbow using the adhesive method.
2. Additional fitting. It is carried out by applying the lower knee to the installation site. To determine the distance between the knees, use a ruler.
3. To calculate the total length of the connecting section, add the distance between the elbows, the height of the nozzle of the upper elbow and the height of the counter part of the lower elbow.
4. Cutting and cleaning the material.
5. Transition assembly. It is important to mark the point where the upper clamp fits. After this, the adapter is disassembled again to install the clamp. At final assembly All parts of the clamp are coated with glue.
6. Marking the locations of the riser clamps. To connect polymer drainpipes, couplings are used, each of which is equipped with a separate clamp.
7. Docking of riser elements. In this case, you need to move from top to bottom. When installing couplings, leave 10-15 mm inside the sockets for compensatory expansion.
8. Tightening the clamps. This should not be done very tightly - the pipes should be able to move.
9. Installing a drain on the down pipe. For this, waterproof glue is used.

When diverting rainwater into a storm drain, the riser does not need to be equipped with a drain. In this scheme, the pipe is simply left above the sewer water intake at a distance of 50-100 mm. To prevent the system from becoming clogged, the top of the gutters are covered with gratings. There is also an option to install protective nets on funnels.