Among the wide range of climbing plants for vertical gardening, one cannot fail to mention kobeya, whose charming filigree bells adorn the walls of buildings and pergolas in the garden. You can grow tenacious kobeya yourself; it’s not at all difficult to do. Kobeya: growing from seeds - this article is all about the intricacies of planting and caring for the crop.

An amazing vine with purple bells is ideal for vertical gardening.

Creeping kobeya is a vine with openwork leaves, among which amazing bell-shaped flowers of white, green or purple bloom. The color of the flower changes as the buds bloom from white to purple. The amazing bells reach up to 8 cm in diameter; they decorate flexible shoots from July to October. The kobei flower has an amazing structure - bells with a graceful bend are located in the axils of the leaves. Curved stamens protrude from the calyx of a delicate flower, giving the flowers an indescribable charm.

The plant quickly grows a thick green carpet, rising to a height of up to 6 meters. The green stems are held in an upright position thanks to numerous tenacious tendrils, but to increase the decorativeness of the plant, it is best to arrange special supports along which the kobei stems can curl.

In nature, the habitat of the kobei is limited to the territory of Central America, but currently the liana is grown on many continents, and in New Zealand the flowering liana has been declared a harmful weed.

For the first time, a decorative vine with charming flowers was discovered and described by the famous Spanish naturalist Bernabe Cobo (1582 - 1657), whose name was later given to a plant that belongs to the Sinyukhidae family.

Kobeya can be planted near gazebos, decorative trellises and walls of buildings; the vine is characterized by rapid growth, the root system of the plant is very powerful and branched, although it consists of many small fibrous roots.

In nature, kobeya is grown as a perennial plant; in the harsher conditions of Russia, the plant is grown as an annual. In the southern regions, it is possible to provide a favorable wintering for the plant if there is reliable shelter from frost. Another option for preserving the plant in winter period– transplanting the kobeya into a container and storing the rhizome in a place protected from frost.

Growing Kobei

Graceful stamens adorn a filigree purple bell.

Planting and caring for kobeya is a very exciting activity, but in order to grow a healthy plant, you must carefully follow the rules of agricultural technology.

Basic requirements for growing kobei

To plant the plant, you need to choose the brightest and sunniest place. The culture is very demanding of bright lighting. If the plant is planted in dense shade, it may be delayed in development, and flowering in this case may not occur at all. Kobeya can be grown in sparse partial shade only as a last resort, if a better free place for planting the plant could not be found.

The soil for planting kobeya should be light, loose and fertile; the nutrient mixture is made up of humus, turf and leaf soil, and coarse sand in equal proportions.

In soil prepared according to the above recipe, you can grow kobeya in cool winter gardens, where the plant can be cultivated as a perennial, because adult bushes can withstand short-term frosts down to – 5C.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Seedlings are dropped into separate cups.

In order for the kobeya to have time to please with its flowering, seeds for seedlings should be sown from the end of February to mid-March. Kobe seeds have a very hard shell, so without additional processing it will not be possible to get by with seed material.

You can facilitate seed germination by pre-soaking them in a solution of growth stimulants. For soaking, you can use “Epin”, “Zircon”, succinic acid, in the solution of which kobei seeds are placed. After some time, a layer of mucus appears on the surface of the seeds, which should be removed, after which the seeds are again placed in a container with a solution of growth regulators. This procedure is repeated several times until the seed shell is sufficiently thin.

After the end of the preparation period, you need to wait for the roots to appear from the seed, after which you can start sowing. It is most convenient to sow kobeya in separate cups, this way the plant will more easily tolerate transplantation into open ground without injury to the overgrown root system. Individual cups are filled with light nutrient substrate. Seeds should be planted in the ground one at a time in a cup, immersing them no more than 1.5 cm. The first shoots from the seeds may appear by the end of the second week. There are cases where kobei seeds sprouted after a month or even later.

Sometimes, due to reasons, the seeds have to be sown in one common container, then when the seedlings have the third true leaf, they must be planted in separate cups.

Hardening of seedlings

Growing kobeya from seeds is not an easy task, but if you follow all the necessary measures, you can get strong seedlings plants yourself. One of the mandatory agricultural practices is hardening, which is carried out in a bright, cool place (glazed but unheated balconies and loggias are ideal).

Young seedlings are taken out into a cool room for several hours, not forgetting to bring the boxes with plants into a warm place overnight.

Planting in open ground

Answering the question of when to plant kobeya in open ground, it is worth noting that plant seedlings are planted only with the onset of stable heat. Kobei seedlings are very tender and are afraid of the cold, so even a slight drop in temperature can lead to the death of young plants.

Plants are planted in open ground at a distance of 0.5 to 1 meter, in separate holes. It is useful to immediately install supporting supports in the planting holes when planting plants.

Seedlings are carefully removed from containers or placed in holes along with a peat pot. It is very important not to bury the plant, but to install the seedling strictly vertically. After filling the hole with soil and installing the stake, the plants should be watered thoroughly.

Care

Kobeya is characterized by rapid growth, so after planting young plants in open ground, you should immediately ensure that the vine has support as the shoots lengthen.

To stimulate branching of the plant, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots of the kobei, then the vine will begin to bush vigorously. Additional shoots increase the decorativeness of the plant as a whole, this concerns the density of the bush and an increase in the number of buds.

When caring for kobeya, you should carefully observe the watering regime - the plant is watered regularly and abundantly, but overwatering can cause rotting of the roots, as well as provoke an outbreak of infectious fungal diseases.

It is best to mulch the soil under the vines with peat chips or bark, this way you can maintain soil moisture longer and reduce watering.

During the summer, it is necessary to weed out the weeds that grow under the kobeya. Laying a mulch layer can inhibit the growth of weeds.

Fertilizer

For favorable growth of kobei, it is very important to carry out the necessary weekly fertilizing on time, for which you can use complex fertilizers. During the period of bud formation, it is very important to provide plants with phosphorus supplements - this will help make each flower as large and brightly colored as possible.

Plants respond favorably to the application of summer foliar fertilizers on the leaves; simply spray the nutrient solution through a spray bottle, the leaves become greener and stronger, and the buds develop faster.

Pests and diseases

There are always ants near aphid colonies, which spread the aphids onto healthy plants.

IN summer time On the leaf blades of kobei you can see a spider mite, which multiplies quickly in extreme heat. The leaves of the decorative vine quickly turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Mites are microscopic in size; it is very difficult to recognize a pest infestation, because they choose the lower part of the leaf blade to colonize. With significant pest infestation, tiny cobwebs appear on the leaves and stems. Treatment will help get rid of pests special drugs, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”, “Fufanon” help well.

Another pest that plagues kobei plantings is aphids. Treatment of vines against aphids must be carried out in conjunction with the destruction of garden ants, which form a stable symbiosis with aphids, spreading pest eggs to long distances. Ants contribute to the significant spread of aphids throughout the green mass of plants.

Fungal infections can greatly harm kobei plantings if watering is disrupted and the plant’s immune system is weakened. To eliminate the causes of the disease, it is necessary to streamline the care of climbing vines; in case of significant damage, use fungicides to treat kobei. When planting plants, it is necessary to provide for laying a drainage layer in the planting holes; this operation will protect the roots of the kobei from rot.

Kobei varieties

White-flowered variety of Cobea scandens alba.

In total, nine species of cobaea are known in nature, of which one is used in decorative floriculture - tenacious cobaea (Cobaea scandens). This species is a perennial climbing vine that blooms with purple bells with a distinct honey aroma.

A subspecies of this plant is the white-flowered cobea (Cobea scandens alba), its snow-white bells make up harmonious combination with lilac flowers, so often both varieties of plants are planted side by side.

Climbing kobei plants can be planted to create vertical flowering walls in composition with morning glory, sweet pea, thunbergia, azarina and other climbing flower crops with identical cultivation techniques.

Kobeya during flowering is distinguished by its extraordinary beauty and grace, so it is worth making an effort to grow this plant.

To make your garden plot elegant and bright, be sure to plant kobeya. This beautifully flowering shrub vine is simply created for garden landscaping. Homeland of thermophilic climbing plant are the mountain forests of the subtropics and tropics of Central and South America. In our country, it is usually grown as an annual plant, since kobeya does not always tolerate our frosts.

Kobeya: photo and description

The plant is characterized by long, over 7 m, stems, on which complex feathery leaves are located in a regular order, and the tips of the branches are complemented by tenacious tendrils, due to which the flower can tear itself off the ground on its own, clinging to any base. Kobeya grows quite quickly, in a short time, decorating huge areas with natural cover.

The plant blooms with large (approximately 9 cm in size) “bells” that create a musky pleasant aroma: During the growing season, long pedicels are formed from the axillary leaves, which are crowned with single or group flowers of 3–5 pieces with a large pistil and stamens. The young leaves of the inflorescence first have a yellow-green tint, then the flower becomes purple or white (depending on the type of kobei). The fruits of this plant look like capsules that are leathery and elastic to the touch, filled with small round seeds.

If the sun often pampers the plant with its warmth and light, then the kobeya will definitely reciprocate: in excellent weather, the flower grows surprisingly quickly. Moreover, the fibrous, powerful roots of the flower actively use nutrients from the environment.

Kobei are in their family There are 9 varieties, of which only one variety has taken root in ornamental gardening., which is also called creeping kobeya, or, as they are also called, “monastery bells”. This type of plant is successfully grown as an elegant decoration for a personal plot.

Features of planting kobei

The growth stage of kobei from a seed to a beautifully growing vine can be divided into two main processes:

• on initial stage Kobea seeds are being planted for seedlings;
• on next stage germinated seeds are transplanted into the ground.

Tropical “living” determined the main character trait of this plant: it does not tolerate kobeya. negative temperature, therefore cultivated as annual plant. Get this beauty on personal plot It is possible only by planting kobeya seeds.

Kobeya in the garden: photos of the plant on the site

How to plant kobe seeds?

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the instructions for growing kobei:

• work with seeds is still starting in early spring . The bottom of a wooden container is covered with several layers of thick toilet paper or gauze, then soak this flooring with a diluted solution of manganese (potassium permanganate). The vine seeds are placed one at a time at a short distance from each other. The container with the upcoming seedlings is preserved using plastic film;
• choose a warm place for the container, under indirect sunlight. It’s okay if the seeds suddenly become covered with mucus: in this case, they are washed with a manganese solution, the covered paper is replaced and clean planting materials are re-placed on it. Tender shoots form in approximately 18–21 days. When the sprouts grow a little, they are planted in a common container;
• the approximate diameter of the total container for replanting the plant is about 9–11 cm. Loose soil is poured into this pot and seedlings are dug in to a depth of 1.6 cm. Each seed is laid out horizontally, with the flat side down. With the formation of the first leaf on the seedlings, it is transplanted into a separate container, not forgetting to install a peg in the ground - a “pack”.
• To plant on open ground (mid-spring), seedlings must be prepared in advance. 16–22 days before planting, the seedlings need to be hardened; to do this, place the container on the loggia overnight. This should not be done if there are still frosts at night;
• growing quickly, the seedlings stretch out greatly, and this greatly reduces their decorative properties. To create a branched and lush crown, young shoots need to be pinched;
• For normal acclimatization of a young plant, select the most sheltered from drafts and the sunniest area, for example, near the wall of a house or near a fence. The kobeya will be able to put up with the lack of sunlight, but the constant shadow will not give the vine the opportunity to show all its beauty during flowering. With the arrival of summer, the planting holes, located at a distance of 80–100 cm from each other, are filled with turf soil, peat and humus. The seedlings are placed here without removing the earthen ball. While weak seedlings have not yet begun to climb, they are given support in the form of pegs. A little later, when the shoots are already stronger, the plant will be able to independently climb onto the support installed nearby.

Conditions and care for kobeya after transplantation into open ground

The liana is actively growing and expends a lot of its energy to climb up with the help of its tendrils - and it is quite logical that this plant requires abundant and constant watering to grow, as well as a large number of nutrients. Especially Satisfaction of these needs becomes relevant when the summer days are dry and hot. Moreover, it is always necessary to carefully ensure that after watering the vine, water does not stagnate in the soil, otherwise the root system of the kobei will certainly suffer from the ubiquitous fungal infections.

Kobeya grows quite quickly, but begins to bloom only after weekly feeding - it is necessary to start adding fertilizers from the time of growing young sprouts from seeds in closed ground. The bait should be alternated:

• First, the soil where the kobeya grows is saturated with organic fertilizers;
• Then mineral supplements.

At the beginning of the growing season, the plant needs nitrogen most of all, and before flowering (early July) it needs phosphorus, potassium and various useful microelements. The bait must be carefully dosed: if you give the kobei an excessive amount of nitrogen, the vine will actively produce leaves, which will significantly reduce the flowering time. Unique fact: than acidic soil, the brighter the red color the plant inflorescences acquire; if there is a lot of lime in the soil, then the blue color predominates in the flower petals.

Tree trunk circles of soil certainly mulch with sawdust, peat or any other material, to which is of organic origin, so that it is possible to control the degree of humidity.

Kobeya is greatly “loved” by all kinds of garden pests, including spider mites and aphids, so this plant must be frequently inspected and treated with insect repellents if the need arises.

Wintering of Kobei

As we said above, tropical liana is grown in our conditions as an annual plant, especially since it is quite simple to grow a beautiful liana from a small amount of seeds. At the same time, some summer residents manage to preserve this shrub in winter, so that when the spring frosts go away, garden territory There was already an adult plant from last year.

This is actually a challenge to nature itself: organizing the wintering of a kobe and not ruining it is a rather difficult task, since this plant, first of all, is quite large, and the vine does not take root well after transplantation. However, this emotional shake-up is only beneficial for the plant. As practice has shown, kobeya, having coped with the winter, begins to bloom earlier and does so quite actively.

How to preserve kobeya in winter?

With the onset of autumn, at the end of September, all foliage is removed from the plant and carefully dug up. The most important thing is not to damage the roots - the root system, although quite large, is very fragile. Store the plant itself in a container, placing it in a cool and dark room at a temperature of at least 9–11C. The cellar is best suited for this.

In winter, kobeya is dormant and this plant does not require care. Periodically it is necessary to check the soil in which the roots of the vine are located, monitoring it normal level humidity. With the onset of spring, the plant is moved to a warm and bright place, slowly increasing the amount of watering of the vine. The plant is returned to its original place on the plot at the beginning of summer, when the insidious frosts are already far behind. Care and planting of kobei, which managed to survive the winter, are the same as for annual plants.

From mother plants that were able to overwinter, cuttings are cut off for vegetative propagation of the bush. When, after wintering, plants are exposed to heat and solar lighting begins to form young shoots, the strongest of them are prepared for this purpose: they are carefully cut so as not to deform the mother plant, and stored in damp sand until the shoots create their own root system. Young seedlings are transferred to open ground when good weather returns to normal.

Flower growers who have been growing this climbing vine for a very long time talk about one unique feature: Kobeya, which is grown not from seeds, but from cuttings, begins to bloom earlier, but not as brightly and actively as the one grown from seeds.

Growing kobei in garden compositions

Flower growers love to grow this “branchy” beauty for its cheerful, lush appearance and significant growth on any surface where the vine can reach. Here's how you can use kobeya to refresh and beautify your home garden:

For many gardeners, kobeya is a rather capricious house flower. But those people who decide to grow this flower crop and give it proper care will, as a result, be able to get a magnificent plant that will decorate the flower garden on the balcony or garden plot.

Kobeya is a perennial vine, which is presented in the form of a subshrub. It is part of the Sinyukhov family and is cultivated mainly as an annual plant. In the article we will talk about all the features of this plant, find out what conditions for normal height and the development of climbing kobei should be created by a gardener.

General information

The name “kobeya” comes from a Spaniard who was a Jesuit monk. His name was Barnabas Cobo, and he spent many years in Peru and Mexico. If you want to find kobei in natural conditions, then you will have to go to the tropics and subtropics of the American continent. This plant came into cultivation back in 1787. In those days, as now, it was used for the purpose of vertical gardening, beautiful hedges were created.

Description of Kobei

Kobeya differs from other plants of its family in its incredibly fast growth rate. The plant has a fairly powerful branched root system, on which there are a large number of thin fibrous roots. The stems of the shrub are quite long and can reach six meters. There are some species whose stems exceed even this figure.

Kobeya climbing has complex pinnate alternate leaves, which consist of three lobes. Already at the end of the shoot, the leaves take the form of branched tendrils. It is these tendrils that help the plant to cling to the support in order to raise the stems to a height. Kobeya blooms with large, bell-shaped flowers. Their diameter can reach eight centimeters. Beautiful flowers are located on stalks. They can be in a group or alone. Kobeya climbing also has fruits, which are presented in the form of a leathery capsule, which is completely filled with oval-shaped seeds. Pedicels appear from the leaf axils. A flower that has not yet bloomed has a green-yellow tint, and when it blooms it becomes white or purple shade.

Kobeya climbing: growing from seeds

One of the most common and effective ways to propagate kobei is by seed. But some difficulties may arise here. Growing kobeya from seeds can be hampered by the seeds themselves, or more precisely, by their thick shell with which they are covered. It greatly complicates the germination process. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend dissolving this crust, turning it into mucus, and then manually removing it. The dissolution process is not too complicated. It is necessary to place the seeds on the bottom of the vessel so that they do not touch each other. Next, you need to fill them with water and cover the container with a lid. This is necessary to prevent moisture from evaporating. Gradually, the crust will begin to become limp, and the gardener’s task at this time is to remove the layer that can already be processed and place the seeds back into the water. This procedure is repeated until all the peel is removed. This usually takes several days. This is the preparatory stage for planting seeds for germination.

Planting seeds

When the preparatory stage has been successfully completed, you can begin planting planting material to obtain seedlings. Typically, climbing kobe seeds are planted in late February or early March. For each seed you need to prepare a separate glass. This is necessary in order not to carry out the first picking, since this process often turns out to be quite traumatic for the plant. There is no need to prepare any special soil for planting. You just need to purchase a universal substrate in a specialized store. The seeds are laid directly on the surface of the substrate, and sprinkled with a one and a half centimeter layer of the same substrate on top. If you managed to completely peel the kobe seeds from their thick skin, then in two weeks you can expect the first shoots. If you fail to do this, you will have to be patient.

Seedlings of climbing kobei

When the seedlings have already grown well (two or more true leaves appear on them), you can start replanting them into larger containers. To do this, you need to prepare three-liter containers and transplant the seedlings there directly with the earthen ball in which they grow. This is necessary so that the plant quickly takes root, it develops a powerful root system, and the shoots become stronger. For such a kobeya, it is already necessary to install a ladder made of plastic or wood, to which the young plant will cling.

Gardeners consider this stage to be special, since it is during this period that the seedlings need to be hardened off. Containers with seedlings are placed on the loggia or balcony. It is advisable that these rooms be insulated or at least glazed, since the air temperature outside is not yet high enough. On glassed balcony the seedlings will get used to the cool air, waiting for planting on permanent place. Typically, seedlings are not left in this position for more than three weeks. After this period, you can safely proceed to planting the climbing kobei in open ground.

Disembarkation time

Kobei flowers can be planted in open ground as early as mid-May, if you are sure that night frosts have left your garden. It is important that the night temperature does not fall below five degrees. However, the growth process of seedlings should also be monitored. Since too large individuals will be difficult to transplant into the ground, and they also take much longer to be accepted in a new place.

Landing technology

To properly care for and plant kobei in the open ground, you should use several rules. First of all, you should choose a place where the kobeya will grow. It will be good if it is a sunny area with quite fertile soil. It’s okay if you place the plant in partial shade, since it also feels quite comfortable in such a place. More attention should be paid to wind and drafts, which should not exist in the place where you plan to plant creeping kobe seedlings.

The holes should be dug in advance. They must be one meter apart from each other. They are filled with a special mixture, which also needs to be prepared in advance. It contains: humus, peat, turf soil. Kobei seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are placed directly on this mixture, then added dropwise and watered well. Do not delay the installation of supports. It is better to do this as soon as the seedlings are planted in open ground. Gardeners recommend using arches or fences for these purposes. This is necessary so that the kobei does not cling to the first supports that come across, which can be nearby bushes and trees.

If you have doubts about frost, it is better to cover young plants non-woven material at night to make sure the plants are safe.

Rules of care

Caring for and planting kobei in open ground includes several more rules that must be followed. It is worth paying attention to the features of watering. The soil around the kobeya should be moistened regularly, and during especially dry periods it needs abundant watering. But you need to know when to stop so as not to overwater the plant, which can lead to rotting of the root system. This is especially true for those plants that grow in partial shade.

Top dressing

Kobeya needs frequent feeding. Fertilizers must be applied every week. They should include a large amount of nitrogen, and during the formation of buds they will also need phosphorus and potassium. The first fertilizers are applied already at the period when the kobeya has just begun its life path. With the appearance of the first leaf, the plant needs humate. Next, you should alternately apply organic and mineral fertilizers. For the former, mullein infusion is excellent, and for the latter, you can choose Kemira. Such alternations are carried out until the climbing kobeya blooms.

Don’t forget to loosen the soil and remove weeds around the plant. It's also very important points on caring for kobeya (photos of flowers are presented in the article).

Reproduction

The seed method of propagation of kobei is not the only one. Cuttings or vegetative propagation methods are considered more reliable. Cuttings should be taken in the spring from those bushes that overwintered indoors. Shoots cut in spring can be rooted directly in wet sand, and already in the second half of May they can be safely transplanted into open ground. Gardeners have noticed the fact that kobeya, which was grown from cuttings rather than from seeds, blooms much earlier. But there is another side - the flowering of such a plant is less abundant and spectacular.

Diseases and pests

As for insects, kobei has only two main enemies: aphids and mites. Getting rid of these pests is not at all difficult. It is enough to spray the plant with a solution of potassium green soap with the addition of fitoverm. If such liquid soap is not found, then you can add pet flea shampoo instead.

Planting material

Flowering of kobei begins around the beginning of July and lasts until the onset of the first frost. In the regions of our country, this plant is grown as an annual, which means that with the onset of autumn it is removed from the garden.

It should be noted that collecting seeds from climbing kobei is quite difficult, since they simply do not have time to ripen. Therefore, it will be better if you purchase planting material from a specialized store and do not waste time collecting unripe seeds. Consider also the fact that even seeds from the best companies germinate only 30% of the time. On one's own collected seeds will not give even such an indicator of germination.

Preparing for winter

In order not to plant kobei seedlings every year, you can try to preserve the plant in winter conditions. This will require a little effort and time from the gardener. In October, the plant is pruned, then the bush is carefully dug up and transplanted into a large flowerpot or other convenient container. In this position, the kobeya should be in a room where the air temperature will not fall below twelve degrees. This could be a living space or a basement. You should monitor the condition of the soil and water it not too much every three to four days.

Towards the end of February, plants that were standing away from sunlight need to be moved closer to it, and watering should also be increased slightly. An adult specimen, like seedlings, can be planted in open ground only when the gardener is absolutely sure that the frosts have completely passed.

Types and varieties

Nine species of kobei are known in nature, but only one of them is grown in culture, which was discussed in this article - the climbing kobei. Although this species is a perennial, in cultivation almost all gardeners grow it as an annual plant. Its homeland is Mexico. The shoots of this climbing kobei do not grow more than six meters in length, which cannot be said about other types of plants. Beautiful purple flowers appear around mid-July and emit a pleasant honey aroma that attracts many insects. In floriculture, white kobeya is also known, which is a subspecies of kobeya and differs from it only in the shade of the flowers. A photo of a climbing kobe can be seen below.

Conclusion

As you can see, growing kobeya in your garden is not as difficult as it might seem. Growing seedlings from seeds is considered the most difficult stage, since you have to spend too much time on this process. Otherwise, this flower cannot be called whimsical and even a beginner can cope with it in the garden. Kobeya can be an excellent decoration for your garden, and you can also use it to make a beautiful hedge for your area.

Kobeya liana (Cobaea) is a climbing subshrub that is an annual and belongs to the cyanaceae family. Gardeners cultivate it as an annual plant. This vine was named after Barnabas Cobo, who was a naturalist monk who lived in the homeland of this plant (Peru and Mexico) for several years. In nature, kobeya can be found in tropical and subtropical rainforests of North and South America. This plant has been cultivated since 1787, and it is most often used for vertical gardening of gazebos or hedges.

This plant is fast growing. In this regard, its branched root system is very strong and has many thin fibrous roots. The length of the shoots can reach up to 6 meters and even in some cases much more. The composition of the alternately arranged complex pinnate spectacular leaf plates includes only 3 lobes. At the tips of the stems, the leaves change and become branched tendrils, which help the shrub to climb up the support, clinging to it with their help. The large flowers are bell-shaped and reach a diameter of 8 centimeters; their pistil and stamens are protruding. The flowers have long pedicels and grow from the leaf axils in groups of 2 or 3 or arranged singly. When the flowers just begin to open, they are yellowish-green. And after full opening, the flowers change their color to white or purple. The fruit is a leathery capsule that opens at the side seams. Inside it are large, flat, oval-shaped seeds.

Sowing

Growing kobeya from seeds is not so easy, but it is quite possible. The fact is that the shell of large seeds is different high density, which makes it much more difficult for sprouts to emerge. Therefore, before sowing, such a shell must be dissolved to such a state that it looks like mucus, and then removed manually. To do this, you need to place the seeds at the bottom of the container, which should be wide enough, but it should be taken into account that they should not touch each other. Pour water into the container and close it with a very tight lid to prevent the liquid from evaporating. From time to time it is necessary to check the seeds and at the same time remove the soggy part of the shell, and then lower them back into the container. For complete cleansing It usually takes several days for the seeds to be removed from the shell.

This plant should be sown for seedlings in February or the first days of March. For sowing, it is recommended to use individual, not very large cups, in which one seed is placed, so you do not have to injure the young plants during picking. To sow seeds, it is recommended to use universal soil. The seed must be placed on the surface of the soil, with the flat side turned down, and then sprinkled on top of it with a layer of the same soil mixture, the thickness of which should be 15 millimeters. Seedlings appear after varying amounts of time. If you have prepared the seeds correctly and completely removed the entire shell, then seedlings may appear within half a month.

Seedling

When the seedlings grow a little and they have 2 true leaf blades, they should be planted together with a lump of earth in containers that should have a volume of about three liters. This will allow the formation of a strong root system and powerful stems. During transplantation, do not forget to place special ladders made of metal or plastic in the container; in this case, the seedling will grow using it as a support. At the same time, you should begin hardening the seedlings. To do this, the plant is transferred to a loggia or balcony, which must be insulated or, in extreme cases, glazed. This is where the plants will remain until transplantation, while slowly getting used to the cold air. As a rule, three weeks of hardening is enough for the plants to fully get used to the outdoor climate. Then you can begin planting the grown and strengthened seedlings in open ground.

Planting in open ground

What time to plant

IN open ground The seedlings are transplanted in May or early June, but must remain free of frost. And the night temperature should not be less than 5 degrees. However, you cannot delay planting for too long, because in this case the plants will outgrow and transplanting into the garden will become much more difficult.

First, decide on the place where the kobes will grow. For them, it is recommended to choose a well-lit place with nutritious soil. However, such a flower can also be grown in a shaded place. It should be noted that this shrub must be protected from cold winds. First you need to prepare planting holes, the distance between which should be from 50 to 100 centimeters. You need to add a loose soil mixture consisting of humus, peat and turf soil into them. You need to put the plant in them along with a lump of earth, bury it and water it thoroughly. Immediately next to the bushes, you need to place a support (arch or fence), since the growing bush must climb along it, and not along the bushes or trees located nearby. If the threat of frost still remains, the plant will need to be covered for a while with non-woven covering material folded in 2 layers.

Features of care

Kobeya should be watered systematically, and during a long dry period, watering should be more abundant. But it must be taken into account that if the liquid stagnates in the roots, this will provoke the development of rot. You need to be especially careful when watering if the shrub grows in a shaded place.

At the beginning of active growth, such a plant needs frequent feeding, which is carried out once a week, and for this it is recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers. During budding, kobeya will need potassium and phosphorus. They begin to feed the plant almost immediately after the seedlings appear. Then when the plant’s first leaf forms, it will need to be fed with humate. After this, the kobe is fed alternately mineral fertilizers(for example, Kemira) and organic matter (mullein infusion) until the very beginning of flowering. In order for the vine to develop and grow normally, you need to systematically loosen the soil surface and pull out weeds.

As mentioned above, kobeya can be grown from seed, and it can also be propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are taken from mother bushes, which must remain indoors all winter. When active growth of young shoots begins in spring, some of them can be cut off and stuck into moistened sand for rooting. The rooted cuttings should be transplanted into open soil in the last days of May or the first days of June. Such plants begin to bloom somewhat faster than those grown from seed, but at the same time their flowering is not lush and not so beautiful.

Aphids and mites can settle on the plant. To get rid of such insects, it is necessary to treat the plant with a solution consisting of phytoverm and potassium green soap. Instead of green soap, you can take flea shampoo for animals (it is also used to control other pests).

After flowering

Flowering begins in July and ends with the onset of frost. In mid-latitudes, such a shrub is grown as an annual, which means that it should be burned in the autumn. Seeds in mid-latitudes do not have time to ripen, so they will have to be purchased again from the store for sowing next year. It is worth considering that even if you buy seeds famous brand in the store, their germination rate will not be higher than 30 percent.

Wintering

If desired, you can try to save the grown kobeya until next year. In October, you should cut off all the stems from the bush, carefully dig it up and plant it in a large box or flowerpot. This plant should be stored in a cool, dark place, and the temperature should not exceed 12 degrees. So, a basement or cellar is perfect for storage. Make sure that the substrate does not dry out; to do this, water once every 20–30 days. In the last days of February, the first days of March, the shrub should be moved to a bright and warm place and watering should be gradually increased. The bush is planted in the garden only after the threat of frost has completely passed.

Main types and varieties with photos

Tenacious kobeya, or climbing kobeya, creeping kobeya (Cobaea scandens)

This species is the only one that is cultivated. In total, there are 9 species of kobei in nature. This species is a perennial vine that is cultivated as an annual. This plant is native to Mexico. This vine grows a large number of stems, reaching a length of 6 m. The feathery leaf plates end in branched tendrils, with which the plant clings to the support. Flowering lasts from the second half of summer until frost. The purple flowers have a honey scent. White cobea (Cobea scandens alba) is a subspecies of tenacious cobea and has white flowers.

In order to grow any plant, you need to understand it. Moreover, such a complex and luxurious plant as kobeya. This article summarizes the experience and knowledge of many gardeners who have understood the needs of the climbing kobe and have been successfully using it for landscaping their plots for several years.

Beautiful tropicana "climbing kobeya"

Every passionate gardener dreams of having something special on his or her plot that makes a bright impression, is pleasing and memorable. Kobea is just such a plant, and growing kobea from seeds at home is a complex, fascinating process and gives the deepest satisfaction.

Like most vines known to us, kobeya comes from the tropics, namely, from the tropics of South America, where about 9 varieties of this plant are found. Under its usual conditions, kobeya is a perennial, grows in tropical forests and can rise to a height of 5-8 meters, clinging with its antennae to branches and tree bark, to all possible protrusions and roughness. Here, kobei propagation occurs naturally through self-germination of fallen seeds.

A completely different situation is observed when trying to grow kobeya in our country. Not all known species can tolerate the peculiarities of the Russian climate, so we have the opportunity to admire only one representative of this luxurious vine - the climbing kobei, but in its different varieties.

Anyone who has ever met a kobe in landscape design, will definitely want to plant this plant in his garden. Kobeya grows very quickly, covers with lush greenery large areas, delights with the openwork emerald of its leaves and large bells of flowers. Having such a beauty in your garden is a very worthwhile endeavor.

A reliable way is to grow kobeya from seeds

As soon as they call kobeya for its disobedience: “capricious beauty”, and “problematic bindweed”, and “belated joy”... Many, many gardeners make attempts to grow this vine every year. It must be said that not everyone succeeds on the first try. But it is imperative to grow kobeya from seeds, and from the latest harvest, since germination directly depends on their age.

There is another argument in favor of doing it yourself: a fairly long period of plant development from germination to flowering. Kobeya, soon after germination, sharply increases in growth and until the time of planting in a permanent place it has a greater height and needs support. In addition, the tendrils that appear strive to catch on to everything possible, spin around the trunk, intertwine with each other, so each plant needs to be grown individually: sow in time, tie it up, pin it - only then it will delight you with early and abundant flowering.

Growing kobei seedlings will require a lot of space.

During mass cultivation of seedlings necessary conditions it is extremely difficult to provide, if only due to lack of space. Therefore, when purchasing a strong but small kobei bush at a green fair, you can hardly expect it to bloom, since in age it is about a month behind its counterparts grown from seeds at home.

Selecting the right soil for growing seedlings

The soil for growing seedlings should be similar to the natural soil of the tropics - light, loose, easily permeable to air and moisture. Many gardeners use universal soil for seedlings. You can prepare a mixture of equal parts of sand, humus, leaf and turf soil. You shouldn’t worry too much about nutrition and fertilizing, so as not to cause a sharp increase seedlings, because they have to wait two to three months for planting in the ground.

Kobe planting dates

The whole process of growing kobeya may seem too labor-intensive and complicated, however, those who show patience and sincere interest will receive a well-deserved reward and a long friendship with this amazing plant.

Important! Sowing of seeds must be done at the end of February, but better in early March (spring after all!) The planting schedule should include time for seed preparation - from 1 to 3 days and time for germination - up to 12 - 15 days.

The seed shell is very hard, so many gardeners prefer their preliminary preparation:

1. Soak until the shell separates. Cover the container with a damp cloth, spread out the seeds, place everything in a plastic bag, and place in a warm, bright place. Change the napkin periodically, wash the seeds, and prevent mold from appearing. After swelling, the softened shell will detach and can be carefully separated.
2. Soaking in Epin solution or within several days. This technique will give the seeds strength, increase immunity and soften the shell.
3. Piercing. Soak the seeds until they swell and carefully pierce the shell with a needle. This will help the sprout to break through.

Methods and conditions for seed germination

Then the seeds need to be germinated. There are also several methods known here:

1. Take a small container, cover with a damp cloth, spread out the seeds and add water, preventing them from drying out. The container should be in a warm place. The first roots appear after 12-15 days.
2. Also spread the seeds on a damp cloth, cover plastic film and put in a warm place. It is necessary to remove condensation from the film daily, ensure that mold does not form, and change the napkin. The waiting period for the first roots is 2 weeks.
3. Place the seeds in peat tablets, do not over-moisten or over-dry. When a sprout appears, transfer it to a pot with soil.
4. Sow dry kobe seeds in moist soil in a small container. Shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. In the future, it will be transplanted into a larger container.

Proper care of kobe seedlings is half the success

You can sow and grow kobeya in peat and any other cups, but the most gentle way is in foil cups. They are easy to make yourself. To do this, you need to take a regular glass, wrap it in 2-3 layers of foil, without grabbing the bottom, and carefully remove the resulting cylinder from the glass. Required quantity Place such cylinders tightly in a container with holes in the bottom and fill with soil. Then sow the seeds to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

As we remember, kobei seeds have low germination, so such sleeves are temporary containers and are intended solely to avoid unnecessary consumption of soil and space. After the sprouts appear, the first true leaves unfold, the viability of the future vine becomes clear, the cylinders can be easily torn and, without damaging the root system of the seedling, transplant it into a larger container, in which it will safely wait until it is planted in open ground. The volume of three to four liter pots will be quite enough.

Growing kobei seedlings on a windowsill.

During this infant period, caring for the kobei consists of watering, feeding with humate, and providing support. The plant develops rapidly, shoots out a long powerful shoot, which is looking for something to gain a foothold on. Wooden sticks can be used as support, but most often their length is not enough. It is much more convenient for these purposes to take twine or hemp rope, secure one end of it at a height and wrap the other around the seedling. When the time comes to move, it will be convenient to untie the rope, roll it together with the plant into a ring and transport it for planting to the dacha or plot.

During this same period, you can pinch the vine for the first time to awaken the lateral buds. By the time it is transplanted to a permanent location, the kobeya reaches a height of up to two meters, and it is better if several shoots have already been formed.

The subtleties of planting kobe seedlings in open ground

For different regions In our country, the time for planting kobei in open ground can be different: from mid-May to mid-June. You need to wait for consistently warm weather, since a drop in temperature to +10 - +5ºС is difficult for young plants to tolerate.

To plant kobei, you should choose the sunniest, warmest, but not hot, places. In areas with scorching sun, it is better to use light partial shade. In addition, you should avoid drafts and strong winds, as the wind tears and breaks the shoots. In any case, the kobeya should be in plain sight, as its appearance provides aesthetic pleasure. But that’s exactly why we grow it!

This luxurious vine requires space, as it can cover quite large areas. If you plan to plant several bushes side by side, then the distance between them should be 70 - 90 cm. Some skilled gardeners practice rooting cuttings by dropping them, so with the help of one kobe bush you can turn an unsightly fence into a fragrant green hedge over the course of a season.

Before planting the kobei, a spacious planting hole is prepared and filled with fertile soil. The pot is well watered, after which the seedling is carefully removed, placed in a permanent place, watered abundantly and tied up.

Caring for kobeya in the garden

Kobeya will not let you relax even after landing in the ground. She really loves moisture, spraying, feeding. To achieve the greatest decorative effect, it must be watered regularly, the tree trunk circles must be mulched in hot climates or loosened in humid climates.

This tropical beauty doesn't like dry air. In the heat, dry spots may appear on the tips of the leaves, growth and flowering may stop. This phenomenon is temporary. Evening spraying will make life easier for the plant. With a drop in ambient temperature and the onset of cool evenings, the kobeya will again appear in all its splendor.

After transplanting into the ground and during the period of active growth, weekly fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is necessary, which is best alternated. A good effect is achieved by using mullein infusion, nitrogen and complex fertilizers for flowering plants. With the appearance of the first buds, you need to add fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus; nitrogenous ones, on the contrary, should be reduced, since we are more interested in flowers rather than leaves.

Regular pinching prevents the lashes from becoming too long and intertwined. The bush becomes more decorative and looks well-groomed. A garter is required only at first; later the kobeya will take care of it herself, the main thing is to provide her with strong support.

It must be taken into account that this vine is quite aggressive and is capable of using its closest neighbors as a support, so it is extremely important to maintain intervals between plants and remove overgrown shoots of kobei.

Options for using kobeya in garden design

Kobeya climbing is a source of inspiration for landscape designers and creative gardeners.

• It can be used for vertical gardening of pergolas, gazebos, and arches.
• Behind the lush greenery of this vine you can hide a variety of architectural flaws: dilapidated fences, ugly brickwork, a rough retaining wall.
• By arranging a dense curtain of kobeya, it is easy to divide the garden into recreation areas according to interests.
• After planting the bush in a container, you can place it on the top step of a stone staircase and let the shoots cascade down.
• Wire garden figure in one summer you can turn it into a living sculpture with just one plant.
• The balconies decorated with kobeya are magnificent. Although it is not easy to get it to bloom in such conditions, its powerful greenery is captivating, and flowers can be added by hanging varieties of other plants.
• The flower beds consisting of cobea and its partner plants are very beautiful. Some gardeners use different varieties of petunia, profusely flowering, low-growing, and verbena for this purpose.

Known methods of breeding kobei

In addition to propagation by seeds, our gardeners describe several more methods:

1. Digging in shoots. From an adult plant, select a powerful shoot located close to the ground, prepare a long groove for it, place it there, secure with a wire pin and cover 2/3 with soil. Pin the top of the shoot. Make sure the soil is constantly moist. Soon young shoots will appear and the bush will spread not only in height, but also in width.
2. Summer sowing. Sow kobeya seeds in peat pots in mid-July at home. After germination and the appearance of real leaves, plant it in a large pot and bury it in the garden. There the plant adapts to external conditions and prepares for wintering. With the onset of cool temperatures, the pot of kobeya is taken out, checked for pests, watered and put into the basement. If there is a cool and bright room, then you can leave it there too. In April, the vine is returned from wintering to a sunny windowsill and then the kobeya is cared for as described above.
3. Cuttings from last year's bush. Place the bush that overwintered in the basement in a warm, bright place. After some time, it will throw out young shoots, which are carefully cut off and rooted in damp sand, just like any other cuttings.

Is it worth collecting kobe seeds?

In the southernmost regions, where early planting of kobei in open ground is possible, it is observed abundant flowering, some gardeners get the fruits. However, even there the seeds do not reach the required maturity and are unlikely to be able to produce offspring.

In more northern regions, kobeya does not have time to form seeds at all, so seed material must be purchased annually and, preferably, from different manufacturers.

From Tropican to Russian

Restless gardeners do not stop trying to transform the climbing kobe from an annual into a perennial. To do this, summer sowing is done (the method was described above), and adult bushes are also left for wintering.

In early - mid-October, the vine bush is pruned and inspected for the presence of pests and diseases. Healthy specimens are carefully dug up, placed in a large container and transferred to the basement, where they are stored at a temperature of +8-10ºС until spring, occasionally moistening. In April, the plant is pulled out into light and warmth and cared for before planting in open ground. Gardeners who have successfully used this method report earlier and lush bloom kobei.

How to recognize diseases and protect against pests

Most dangerous disease for kobei is root rot. It is especially common in areas with a humid climate. Its signs are the appearance of dark spots on flowers and leaves, and in later stages – the wilting of the entire bush. The plant requires constant watering and, in order to avoid the development of root rot, the tree trunk circles must be loosened, providing oxygen access to the roots.

Another unpleasant phenomenon is drying out the tips of the leaves, slowing down the growth and formation of flowers. This cannot be called a disease, just a reaction of the plant to high temperatures that are observed in areas with hot climates. You can help the vine survive an unfavorable period by spraying the shoots in the evening. Later she will thank you for such care with lush greenery and abundant flowering.

The succulent leaves of the kobei tree are relished by two main pests: spider mites and aphids, and while aphids are easy to detect and destroy, the situation with spider mites is much more complicated. There are many different methods known folk remedies, but it’s better not to waste time, but to immediately use modern chemicals in accordance with the instructions in order to have a healthy and beautiful bush on your site.

- a microscopic insect that many inexperienced gardeners discover too late, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, and in the advanced stage a thin cobweb is visible, entangling the leaves, shoots, and flowers. Such a plant will die on its own and become a breeding ground for spider mites, which quickly spread to many other plants.

One adult female, during her short life of 2-3 weeks, manages to produce several hundred eggs, which mature and produce new insects every 3 days. Once in the ground, the eggs remain viable for 5 years. A spider mite infestation is similar to an epidemic and requires quick and decisive action.

Approach your kobei often, inspect the leaves and as soon as you notice small yellow dots, turn the leaf over and examine its lower surface through a magnifying glass. Most likely you will find a light cobweb and a colony of small insects: adults, small ones and numerous eggs. It is urgent to remove and burn the affected leaves, treat with an appropriate preparation and repeat this procedure until the plant is completely healthy.

It makes no sense to list the names of drugs to combat aphids and spider mites, since these insects develop resistance and the means of control should be changed annually.

Suggested varieties of kobei

As mentioned above, only one species can grow in Russia - climbing kobeya. The most popular varieties are those with purple and white flowers. Moreover, purple varieties of kobei have larger flowers, up to 10 cm in diameter, and white varieties have beautiful greenery and the flowers are slightly smaller - 8 cm. It is interesting that in the process of growth, each flower changes its color from rich purple to almost pink and from greenish to delicate white, so every day the kobeya transforms and looks new.

To maintain its decorative quality at a high level, you need to remove dried flowers. And if seed pods also appear on your vine, then you can admire its beauty tirelessly. They look especially luxurious mixed plantings purple and white varieties.

Planting material should be purchased every year and from different manufacturers. Firm Russian vegetable garden, for example, offers kobei seeds Lilac Ringing and Tsar Bell. The first variety has large purple flowers, the flowering period is from July to September. The second is later flowering, from July until frost, and slightly smaller delicate white flowers.

In the assortment of the online store Plasma Seeds white varieties are represented by Kobei Jingle Bells and White climbing, and purples are Amethyst Bells and Violet Climbing. They differ from the “Russian Garden” samples only in shades of color; the main characteristics are practically the same.

Agrofirm Aelita, in addition to those listed, offers Lady Hamilton kobeya with dazzling white flowers and Violet, blooming with dark purple and pale purple large bells. So there are options to choose from.

No matter how troublesome the process of growing kobeya from seeds at home may seem, all the work will be rewarded by communication with a magnificent plant, aesthetic pleasure and a sense of pride in one’s own success.

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