Even a one-story residential building or an outbuilding is problematic to build without platforms or scaffolding. Some kind of elevation is still needed and will be absolutely correct if it is a good scaffolding. They will ensure safety on the construction site and high speed of work, not to mention the convenience of foremen and auxiliary workers. It is not always profitable to rent, let alone buy, spatial structures for construction, so we will try to save some money.

What is it and why are they needed

It will not be difficult to build scaffolding with your own hands, but they can solve a lot of issues related to the construction of walls, roofing, and facade decoration. The price of metal scaffolding is about 200 rubles per square meter. On the one hand, there is not so much, but on the other - why buy if homemade ones are three times cheaper in cost, and in terms of quality and functionality are no worse if you adhere to certain rules and regulations.

The main task of scaffolding is to provide the ability to work at a certain height. In this case, safety and convenience are considered first. Regardless of the design and height, of the material, the scaffolding should be equipped with either handrails or a net, be easy to install and compact for storage and transportation. There is no need to reinvent the bicycle, everything has already been invented before us and is described in GOSTs and standards.

Parameters and characteristics of wooden and metal structures

Before choosing a material for scaffolding, you need to decide on their dimensions, taking into account the requirements of building codes. They should be observed, if only for the reason that, first of all, they are called upon to take care of our safety. First of all, before the direct construction of the structure, a drawing is performed taking into account the following parameters:

• the maximum height of the spatial structure should not exceed six meters;
• any scaffolding rests on racks, the distance between which must be at least two meters;
• the working space, regardless of height, should be at least one meter wide, this is necessary both for the convenience of work and to prevent the fall of tools and materials.

The following parameters considered will help to avoid unnecessary waste of material. For example, in terms of ergonomics, it is most convenient to work when the working area is 40 cm below the thoracic region. Therefore, it is at this distance that the lowest platform should be installed. The platform of the second level is arranged at a height of 175 to 200 cm from the level of the first platform. It is also worth considering a system of braces or fixing to the wall, which will not allow the structure to move away from the treated surface. Now, armed with the general parameters and drawing up a drawing, we proceed to the assembly of scaffolding from wood or metal.

We collect metal scaffolding

A frame metal structure with a wooden deck is what you need for private construction. Such scaffolds are cheaper than yoke scaffolds, more expensive than wooden ones, but they are stronger and can be used many times. Framed metal scaffolding consists of sections 2x2x1 m. The dimensions can be changed within the permissible limits, which we have already mentioned. To assemble the scaffolding, you will need the following materials:

• pipe 30 mm;
• pipe 15 mm;
• edged board forty;
• attachment ladder;
• threaded fasteners;
• grinder, drill, welding, building level and the simplest locksmith tool.

The installation of metal scaffolding is carried out in several stages:

• Making spacers from 15 mm pipe. A spacer made from a thinner pipe will help maintain the rigidity of the structure, while not making it much heavier. The transverse (horizontal) spacers should be at least a meter in length, and the diagonal ones - 2 m. The cut pipes are flattened at both ends, after which a hole is drilled in the deformed ends corresponding to the diameter of the hardware.
• Manufacturing of adapters. In order to be able to increase the vertical supports in height, it is necessary to make adapters that will be inserted into the racks and the continuation of the vertical rack will be worn on them. The number of adapters is calculated depending on the height of the scaffolding. For their manufacture, a 25x25 mm profile is used, the length is about 300 mm, for fixing a sleeve 6-8 cm long from a 30x30 profile is put on the adapter.

Assembling the frame and flooring

1. Each vertical post is connected by horizontal jumpers, which are welded every 30-35 cm.
2. Support plates in the form of a square with a side of 70-80 mm are welded to the lower ends of the support posts so that the structure does not fall into the ground.
3. Each two racks are installed vertically strictly along a plumb line or level. Diagonal struts are tried on to them. A marker is used to mark the drilling locations. Drill holes in spacers and bolt uprights.
4. Shields are assembled from a 40 mm thick board along the length of the section, knocked down from the back side and strengthened so that there is no deflection.
5. Along the edges of the flooring, a U-shaped profile is fixed by the size of the crossbar on a vertical rack with self-tapping screws.
6. The laid flooring will be fixed with a U-shaped profile, which will not allow the shield to move.

Now it remains only to treat the new forests with an anti-corrosion compound, soil and paint if desired. The structure is completely ready to work. Happy construction to all!

During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Scaffolding requirements for construction and repair

Scaffolding is widely used in construction and renovation. Even the usual DIY wall plaster it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task at all without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together goats-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized forests will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit from scaffolding, home-made or purchased... The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolds increases several times - so that their cost can be entered in the column “payment for the speed and convenience of repair”.

Any construction of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and consumables placed on them. If there is even the slightest doubt that scaffolding will not be able to be assembled with a proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.

Scaffolding classification

The very term "forests" is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "whatnots" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving only its name and the principle of construction to the descendants.

Modern options are based on a frame and are made with reusability in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding - made of steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and cumbersome, requires considerable time to assemble and move - but very durable. For example, masonry or brickwork is best done with them. A large amount of heavy construction materials can be loaded onto the pin scaffolding, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a strong frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony cladding with siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with fast movement along (up and down) the repaired object;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. The fasteners are designed in the form of slotted flanges, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of low carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - well-known "cradles", with the help of which the facade glass is washed and the tile joints are sealed. A structure without ground support can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do it yourself from wood, step by step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material - the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite feasible on their own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - a step-by-step scheme

Step 1: selection and preparation of wood

To work, you will need several types of wood. The bearing supports are made of a 10x10 cm bar (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work from the scaffolding). Horizontal decks are hammered together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm. Fence rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. The wood for the supports and the scaffold must be free of knots and cracks, it must be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and the appearance of mold.

Step 2: planning the wireframe

The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of the walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose bearing supports from a 10x10 cm bar as integral, and not composite - then the strength of a multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum permissible width of self-made wood scaffolds is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a great risk of scaffolding overturning during work. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Constructing the frame

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are also stacked side by side. The upper part of the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up... That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, therefore they are mounted from the inside. In general, self-made wooden scaffolding can have no more than three "assembly floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar... Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: we carry out the volumetric wireframe

To connect the side trapezoids into solid woods, you will need an assistant (or preferably two). Alone, this operation is difficult to perform, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length... The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will arise between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.

Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a shed or garage.

Step 5: final and additional

It remains to nail the floorboards and railing above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional cross-members can be stuffed, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching the scaffolding to the earthen soil - on flat surfaces it is removed, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

From this article, you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will tell you about the requirements for individual elements and construction in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at a height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since work at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on the scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
2. Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembling / disassembling the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The structure must contain an admissible minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolds are professional and expensive products. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. You should pay special attention to them.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - are transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (ground). Rack requirements:

1. Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
2. Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be broken, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excessive wane or holes.
4. The board must not be affected by insects.

Particular attention should be paid to the vertical splice assembly. The elements should be connected "end-to-end", not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transmit it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for the racks. One additional requirement: Spliced ​​cross members must not be used without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and staggered are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal ties connecting the posts of different rows. The use of slats, slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install the braces of the maximum length in order to tie the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops supporting the structure in order to avoid deviation from the wall. Usually a board of 25 mm is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe structure. These rules are derived from the safety requirements and the experience of high-altitude craftsmen:

1. The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the posts is not less than 500 mm.
3. For each node - at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point mounting - pitch 50-70 mm staggered.
4. Use heavy-duty self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them on the back side.
5. Always install the handrails on the inside of the rack.
6. Use a frontal board (guardrail at the deck).
7. Racks at the mating point must be trimmed.
8. The spacing of the uprights is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Assembling scaffolding

To create a wooden scaffold structure, you need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. Putting together an "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90 °. Misalignments can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
3. Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a brace at the maximum height so that they stand unsupported.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Slide the floorboard onto the crossbars and fix it. Reinforce the brace.
6. Fasten the flooring from above with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the rest of the "envelopes" and the flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice the deck between the supports! The joint of the planks or flooring sheets must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and frontal board.
2. Tie the structure to the wall if possible.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

The scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly should be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Accessories for the device of wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device should correspond to the section of the board.

Triangular bracket

This bracket can be wood or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. For the device of flooring on its basis, several boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installation of anything from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and care is required.

Mason's Express Scaffold

Created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while it is quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Mason's scaffold on video

Whichever type of scaffold or forest you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

From this article, you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will tell you about the requirements for individual elements and construction in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at a height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since work at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on the scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
2. Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembling / disassembling the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The structure must contain an admissible minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolds are professional and expensive products. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. You should pay special attention to them.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - are transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (ground). Rack requirements:

1. Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
2. Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be broken, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excessive wane or holes.
4. The board must not be affected by insects.

Particular attention should be paid to the vertical splice assembly. The elements should be connected "end-to-end", not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transmit it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for the racks. One additional requirement: Spliced ​​cross members must not be used without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and staggered are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal ties connecting the posts of different rows. The use of slats, slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install the braces of the maximum length in order to tie the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops supporting the structure in order to avoid deviation from the wall. Usually a board of 25 mm is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe structure. These rules are derived from the safety requirements and the experience of high-altitude craftsmen:

1. The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the posts is not less than 500 mm.
3. For each node - at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point mounting - pitch 50-70 mm staggered.
4. Use heavy-duty self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them on the back side.
5. Always install the handrails on the inside of the rack.
6. Use a frontal board (guardrail at the deck).
7. Racks at the mating point must be trimmed.
8. The spacing of the uprights is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Assembling scaffolding

To create a wooden scaffold structure, you need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. Putting together an "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90 °. Misalignments can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
3. Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a brace at the maximum height so that they stand unsupported.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Slide the floorboard onto the crossbars and fix it. Reinforce the brace.
6. Fasten the flooring from above with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the rest of the "envelopes" and the flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice the deck between the supports! The joint of the planks or flooring sheets must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and frontal board.
2. Tie the structure to the wall if possible.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

The scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly should be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Accessories for the device of wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device should correspond to the section of the board.

Triangular bracket

This bracket can be wood or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. For the device of flooring on its basis, several boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installation of anything from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and care is required.

Mason's Express Scaffold

Created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while it is quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Mason's scaffold on video

Whichever type of scaffold or forest you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Before making scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. While such self-made construction ancillaries help save money, their safety and practicality are questionable. In this article, we will show you how to make wooden scaffolding, and we will carry out a comparative analysis of traditional inventory scaffolding and these structures.

In the photo do it yourself scaffolding

Construction methods

By making your own temporary structures, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of ​​use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:

• structures for renovation and finishing work with a small load on the flooring;
• products for heavy-duty masonry work.

Depending on the materials of self-produced woods, there are:

• metal;
• wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process for each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out in accordance with all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before making scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy home-made scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, in their reliability and compliance with the requirements of the current regulatory documents.

DIY scaffolding made of wood

The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is the observance of the verticality of the rack elements or the desired angle of inclination when manufacturing low structures from boards. In any case, making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards

For the manufacture of vertical supporting elements of such structures, it is better to take boards with a thickness of 4 cm.But when using a beam of 100x100 mm, the structure will turn out to be much stronger and more reliable. In order for the product to be stable and could not accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal ties in each span. It is better to mount the diagonals so that they are fixed to several posts and to the walls of the object at once.

Homemade wooden scaffolding has one distinct advantage - the material of the scaffolding can be used for other purposes after the structure is dismantled. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, as well as get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documents.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached do-it-yourself wood scaffolding drawings will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in the following order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, it remains to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation should be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. So that you have an idea of ​​the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm.So, you will need 6 meters of edged board with a section of 20x4 cm for assembling a working floor, as well as 36 m of a bar with a section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade forests based on the price of one cubic meter of timber.

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

DIY scaffolding from pipes

To do this type of auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes with a diameter of 4-6 cm with a large wall thickness. Clamp fasteners can be used to connect tubular elements into one structure. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding from pipes can be found on the Internet.

Usually, self-made temporary steel structures are obtained with a height of no more than 6-8 m, since there are difficulties with the purchase and delivery of a long pipe to the installation site. The insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage that do-it-yourself metal scaffolding has. If you need to do work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.

DIY scaffolding drawings

Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when building a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies, it is most advisable to purchase ready-made sets of auxiliary equipment, which will be distinguished by their strength, reliability and safety, and most importantly, can be reused.

Also, metal scaffolding with your own hands can be welded, and not fastened with clamps. However, in this case, you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted for the features of the object under construction: you cannot change the height of the flooring, change the pitch of the racks.

But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. Also on the network you can find drawings explaining how to make pin scaffolding with your own hands.

What to choose?

To understand which is better, do it yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If a large structure is required to be erected, a large team of workers will work, and the loads on the flooring are expected to be significant, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also saves money, as well as self-made structures.

DIY pallet scaffolding

Diy scaffolding device: advantages

• Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolds costs at least 150 rubles. per square meter of equipment. Homemade woods are much cheaper, especially if you have the materials to make them.
• If you need temporary structures for one-time use when building your own home, then DIY scaffolding for a summer cottage will be the best option.
• More durable scaffolding with your own hands can be made from a profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make forests out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
• Another opportunity to save money can be the purchase of ready-made homemade forests. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is distinguished by an acceptable price and excellent quality.

Disadvantages of homemade forests:

From the proposed photos, you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:

• Factory scaffolds are assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. It can take a whole day to build homemade scaffolding.
• Difficulties in constructing forests with their own hands do not speak in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all units are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, detailed assembly instructions are attached.
• The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much more than that of steel prefabricated structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):