How to make your own pocket saw from a chain. Do-it-yourself chain sawmill from an electric saw Making a pocket chain saw

When going on a long journey, overnight fishing, hunting, or just relaxing, many fishermen, hunters and tourists load a small chainsaw into the luggage of their car. Most often, this is a small lopper to cut a log for a supply of firewood for the fire. What should hikers do? long distances? You can’t put a chainsaw in a backpack, even a small one - it will simply displace all the other accessories needed on a hiking trip. And the prospect of dragging excess weight, even if it is a necessary thing on a hike, does not cause much optimism. Of course, there is always room in your backpack for a small hatchet, but there are times when you need a saw. For example, sawing off a piece of thick log that will burn all night. Dry, resinous trunk of a fallen tree coniferous species, is unusually hard, and with a small hatchet you can bale it all night. No fire needed! In this case, the chain from this same chainsaw will really help us out, from which we will make a pocket chainsaw. With its help, you can quite easily and quickly saw through a trunk with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. Making such a saw takes half an hour. Among other junk in my shed, I had a broken chainsaw chain lying around, from which I made a pocket chainsaw.

Of course, you can make it from a new chain, but, in my opinion, a saw from a new chain will not be as effective; its teeth are too wide, not sharpened and it is not designed - it will be harder to operate it. On an old chain, all the teeth, as a rule, are already thin and ground, which is very convenient for a saw of this type.

Will need

A chainsaw chain (preferably an old one, already developed).
Emery machine.
File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a keychain) 2 pcs.
Tin and flux.
Gas torch or powerful lighter.
A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
Machine oil.

Making a chain pocket saw:

First, let's rid the chain of everything unnecessary and sticking out. Except for the sawing teeth, of course.

Using an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. You will get a chain like this:

Next you need to give the required form saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked with a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, accordingly, need to be sharpened at both ends. Using an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc, we give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round needle file or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.

Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We widen the links a little so that the iron ring that will be put on later fits freely into them.

We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should look like this:

Next, let's move on to the handles. Here, at first, I made a little mistake with the material for the handles; I cut 16mm metal-plastic tubes the width of my hand.

Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, the plastic would slip out of woolen mittens, and it would be cold to work with gloves. So, instead of handles, it is better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut off on the spot. Although everyone has their own business here - I personally (as can be seen in the video) got by just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain, when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ones ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat the metal rings with a soldering iron, so I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I simply cleaned the surface of the metal to be soldered with sandpaper, lubricated it with flux, heated it with a lighter and applied tin. All that remains is to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used gun oil for this, but in the absence of one, you can use any oil. At least it’s plant-based! That's all. All that remains is to carry out the test. As you can see in the video below, the chain handled dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.

If you need to cut down something more serious, it’s never too late to cut a couple of branches for handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that you can then maintain the fire for heating and cooking without saving.

The most important and, perhaps, biggest advantage of this product is that it is very compact and lightweight. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of your backpack or bag – it’s a matter of minutes. Don’t forget to lubricate the chain with oil and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you for a long time, just like any other thing. good care and kind, caring attitude.

A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw not particularly often, I still recommend getting such a machine if you have the slightest opportunity to make parts. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, milling cutter and universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant design changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this saw design provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling processing, and it is also possible to sharpen tools and cut metal.

The basis of this design is an electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is its exceptional reliability, and taking into account the fact that in an electric saw it operates in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is cut from plywood or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is secured to the base with MB screws with a conical head using angles measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 140 mm, attached to the electric motor with its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, a subframe is attached to the top of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the angles, which serve to attach them to the engine, are oblong in shape in order to ensure tension on the belt drive. Instead of the standard nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel strip measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with threaded holes M8, into which the bolts are screwed. The underframe and the base in the area opposite the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal rod with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft on which the saw blade and belt pulley are mounted are installed in the bearing unit housing. Regarding the manufacture of the bearing housing, shaft and parts used for fastening saw blade(Fig. 3), then it is advisable to entrust their production to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also the quality of woodworking largely depends on the quality of these parts.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20; it is designed to install bearings of type 203, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car store. It is advisable to make the spindle shaft and saw blade mounting parts from higher quality steel, for example 45 steel. The dimensions of the saw blade mounting parts allow for the installation of discs with a diameter internal hole both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, length 82 mm, with the help of which the bearing assembly is secured to the underframe with MB screws with conical heads. The threaded holes used to attach it to the underframe should be drilled before welding using a template, which is then used to drill holes in the underframe. To avoid welding metal splashes, the bearing housings are rubbed with chalk before welding. It should be noted that it is recommended to drill all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined together during the rough preliminary assembly process, including cutting out a hole in the underframe used for installing a cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin with a thickness of 4-5 mm or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. To allow the saw blade to pass through, a slot about 10 mm wide is made in the table. This can be done later, during the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which the halves of detachable card cards are attached using screws with a diameter of M5. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which includes counter halves of loops with pins attached to the work table with M5 screws with a conical head. To ensure the orientation of the countersinks in the hinge plates with the fastener heads, the mating halves are swapped: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right mating part.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment of the rise of the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of protrusion of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the table surface. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by securing the table to the underframe and adjusting the lift of the table by placing washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other sizes, the dimensional chains of the bearing assembly housing must be adjusted. It is advisable to use ready-made nuts. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from an aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise the use of cutting tools with a diameter of 200 mm or more will be impossible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with just such belts. In combination with cutting tool Not large diameter“Of course”, shorter length belts can also be used.

The standard diagram for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in Fig. 4. The RTK-S type starting relay is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upward - otherwise the relay will not operate correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use capacitor system start (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the motor torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two-key switch. The “Start” key (Fig. 6) is equipped with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures that the key returns to its original state. The flag attached to this key ensures automatic operation of the second section of switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the “Start” button for a period of time during which the electric motor reaches operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the SI contacts, which disconnect the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains in the on state, closing the S2 contacts. The electric motor is stopped by pressing the “Stop” button. When using a capacitor starting system, it is necessary to install a fuse with a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the tie rod nuts are released and the underframe is moved relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor engine starting system, the weakest link of the machine may be the standard transmission belt. In this case, you can use a belt drive with a double belt.

When using a standard electric motor starting system, it is also advisable to connect a capacitor Cp to the starting relay terminals “O” and “P”, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The parts of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield, z-shaped, bent in place, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and secured with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of approximately 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. On the front surface of the shield is attached rocker switch, and on the back side there are capacitors.

Using MB bolts, a guide made of a duralumin angle measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 600 mm is attached to the table, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be attached to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is advisable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

A trapezoidal slot is made at the base of the saw with dimensions: At the bases of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot serves to dump sawdust from under the disk into the storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slit and secured to it with twine or an elastic band. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, and also as bedding for the cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. cannot be used.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a hopper for collecting sawdust, since it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of different cutting and sharpening tool. Speaking of selection saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a disk for rip sawing 1.6 mm thick, 200 mm in diameter with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw's motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; do not purchase disks designed for cross-cutting: if a rip saw cuts quite satisfactorily across the grain, then when you try to cut longitudinally using a cross-cut saw you will suffer quite a lot.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing significant volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade “shrinks” very quickly due to the presence of various solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to saw large quantities of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

It is most productive to choose quarters with a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a mounting hole of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disc for metal 3 mm thick, with a seat diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install disks with a seat diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not pose any problems for you. If you are using a router bit or cutting disc, the hole in the workbench may need to be slightly widened.

Drawings of parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) to the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of the UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the Rebir electric planer type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively light work - the armature of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this plane is extremely low and I should get a more reliable tool. I note that if you use an UDG, you will need to make a special work table, since a hole width of 55 mm is required to pass the cutters fixed in the head. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cutting and sanding wheel on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be observed especially strictly when processing used wood. If metal inclusions are detected, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be turned off immediately, the cause of the overload must be eliminated and turned on again. The reason for frequent repetition similar situations there may be dullness cutting edges saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work like a “beast” again. In passing, I would like to note the need to control the spread of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should approximately be 0.6-0.8 mm. The saw doesn’t like to cut without a divorce! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player's contacts.

When trimming edges, do not edged boards To obtain smooth edges on the board, you must first “beat” a line using a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would also be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the wringer of the washing machine, securing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the work table, you can install the abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with glued sandpaper (“bayan”) will allow you to sand parts. A polishing wheel, which is a package of round pieces of fabric sandwiched between two disks, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

It is very convenient to store cutting and fastening tools in a metal film can with a diameter of 300 mm. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are placed in a stack (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), they are wrapped with the ends of the fabric and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. You can attach an eyelet to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses and wear gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace the cut ones, and it is still very difficult to replant cut ones, despite the colossal advances of medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

These saws are very convenient to use during hiking trips - they take up very little space and cut perfectly. Buying a factory-made tool is not always possible, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What you need

The saw is made from a chainsaw chain; a piece of polymer sling 60–70 cm long and approximately 3–4 cm wide is used for the handles. The elements are fastened with M6 bolts with washers and nuts. The plastic is glued together with an iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled using a small grinder and a punch.

Manufacturing process

Place the chain on a flat surface and find the connecting link. Using a cordless angle grinder or grinder, carefully cut off the head of the rivets connecting the chain links.

Place the chain on a vice and remove the axes of the connecting rivets with a punch, the chain will be disconnected.

Prepare two pieces of polymer sling, each about 30 cm long. Bend them in half; the size of the loops should ensure a comfortable hand position while working with the saw. Bend the ends 3-4 cm and fold them together. In this way, a reinforced unit for attaching the chain is prepared.

Place a piece of baking paper on a piece of board, one end of a folded sling on it, and again paper on top. Use an iron to heat the prepared area until the polymer melts and sticks together. Heat carefully, do not allow the plastic to completely melt - some types become brittle; when using a saw, the place where the chain is fixed cracks; the tool will have to be repaired in the field. Using this technology, process all four ends of the pieces of tape.

Using a punch, make holes for the bolts. They should be placed approximately in the middle of the prepared area at a distance of 2–3 cm from the end.

Attach a chain to the handles. First, place a bolt and washer in the hole, put the open chain link on it, then the other end of the handle and tighten the connection with a nut.

The hand chain saw is ready for use. Press down on the branch with your foot and try to cut it. If the chain is sharp, then harvesting firewood of the required length will require a minimum of physical effort and time.

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Pocket chain saw

When going on a long journey, overnight fishing, hunting, or just relaxing, many fishermen, hunters and tourists load a small chainsaw into the luggage of their car. Most often, this is a small lopper to cut a log for a supply of firewood for the fire. But what should lovers of hiking do over long distances? You can’t put a chainsaw in a backpack, even a small one - it will simply displace all the other accessories needed on a hiking trip. And the prospect of carrying extra weight, even if it is a necessary thing on a hike, does not cause much optimism. Of course, there is always room in your backpack for a small hatchet, but there are times when you need a saw. For example, sawing off a piece of thick log that will burn all night. The dry, resinous trunk of a fallen coniferous tree is unusually hard, and with a small hatchet you can bale it all night. No fire needed! In this case, the chain from this same chainsaw will really help us out, from which we will make a pocket chainsaw. With its help, you can quite easily and quickly saw through a trunk with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. Making such a saw takes half an hour. Among other junk in my shed, I had a broken chainsaw chain lying around, from which I made a pocket chainsaw.

Will need

A chainsaw chain (preferably an old one, already developed).
Emery machine.
File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a keychain) 2 pcs.
Tin and flux.
Gas torch or powerful lighter.
A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
Machine oil.

Making a chain pocket saw:

First, let's rid the chain of everything unnecessary and sticking out. Except for the sawing teeth, of course.

Using an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. You will get a chain like this:

Next, you need to give the saw teeth the desired shape. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked with a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, accordingly, need to be sharpened at both ends. Using an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc, we give the teeth a triangular shape.