Summer will begin very soon and parents will need to come up with different activities for their children every day. One evening you can organize a real master class on how to make a writing pen yourself from materials available at home.
For any person, a pen is necessary thing almost throughout life. Therefore, after looking at a photo of a homemade pen, it is not at all surprising that there is a desire to try to carry out all the steps and make a pen yourself.
Paper pen: how to make
Take one simple sheet of paper in a classic format - A4. It is necessary to measure 14 cm from its longest side. This is slightly more than the length of any plastic rod used.
On the other side, approximately 10-12 cm is measured, which is less than the rod. This important point, which must be observed so that the lower part of the handle can be made in the usual shape of a well-known cone. Next, the marks are connected by drawing a line. Subsequently, it is necessary to cut the sheet along it.
On the side of the sheet where 14 cm was previously marked, it is necessary to apply glue and carefully wrap the prepared rod.
It is important to follow the instructions on how to make a handle, without deviating from it in any way. After the glue has dried, the paper is wound as tightly as possible around the entire rod, and its edge must be additionally coated with glue so that in the future your craft will not unwind during work.
While doing the work, make sure that the cone is formed only in the lower part of the stationery, since the other part must be as even as possible. If for some reason this cannot be done, you can correct the situation with the help of a knife.
The created handle can be painted absolutely any way for beauty. acrylic paint. It is advisable to choose acrylic, because after it dries, it will not dissolve with water.
If you decide to use watercolor/simple gouache when decorating the pen, then be sure to additionally coat the part of the pen that you cover with it with varnish. Otherwise, you may get your hands dirty later while using the pen.
Ready-made stationery can be covered with beautiful paper, which today is often used in scrap paper / for gift wrapping.
An interesting idea is to use the pages of a glossy magazine or a popular one for pasting. Lately foil tape that shines.
After prolonged use, it happens that the paper begins to wear out. To avoid repeating this situation with the paper used for the pen, it is best to additionally cover it with transparent tape or varnish it.
Of course, today you can buy a simple pen in any store, but if you are looking for something you can use to make a pen at home, then you are a fan of the exclusive, and in combination with a large number of different master classes where you can learn how various crafts are created And stationery including, you can create a pen that no one else will ever have. At the same time, you can even give such a pen to a friend as an author’s gift.
Wood handle
Browsing through various original ideas homemade pens you've probably already come across a variant of a wooden handle and so now it's time to look at it in more detail.
What materials may be needed?
Several metal tubes, a simple rod, a mechanism that will later be used for a pen, several wooden forms, sandpaper and glue.
All actions will need to be performed using lathe. Therefore, when thinking about how to make a frame for a pen yourself, take care of finding it in advance.
Keep in mind that any finishing materials used will affect the color of the wood. So before you start applying them to finished product, it is best to test on some waste. This will avoid unexpected results.
Saw belt type, as well as cutting machine If used incorrectly, they are potentially dangerous, so it is important to use them as carefully as possible and comply with all safety requirements.
Do not allow pairs of different varnishes and adhesives to negative impact for your health. It is better if they are used exclusively in a ventilated room, and as far as possible from materials that are easily flammable.
As you work, after stripping the metal tubes, be sure to lubricate them with good quality glue.
If you don’t have wooden forms, you can create them yourself using the online tutorial.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that today how to make a pen with your own hands is being asked every day. more people, which is explained by a number of different factors. Once you learn how to do it yourself, you can give the pen as a gift. business partner or one of your friends
Creating even ten such pens will cost several times less than ordering them from any enterprise.
Photo ideas for homemade pens
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Preface.
There is a huge variety of pens that can be bought at any office supply store without any problems. Sometimes, you want to have something that no one has and will never have, or that only a limited circle of people have. The same is true with handles... yes!!! with the most ordinary writing pens, with which students write their useless notes, chemists write various reaction formulas, accountants fill out all sorts of different forms, certificates, etc. In this article “How to make a handle...” (KSR) I will try to popularly show how you can make an original wooden handle.
Project development (office work).
Before you do anything, you need to develop a plan. Now the plan will be called the selection of materials, the development of a 3D model of the handle, subsequently the creation of the necessary drawings, and the development of manufacturing technology for one or another part.
Selection of materials.
Step to be taken with full responsibility, because the durability of the handles, their appearance. The wood from which the handles will be made should be as hard and dense as possible, and as a result it will be polished well. My choice fell on ebony (ebony), beech, maple, as for wood; from not wooden materials– an aluminum tube, a brass rod, and the ball rod itself with paste. Actually, that’s the entire list of materials.
From left to right: rods with paste, aluminum tubes, brass rod (look like this because they are varnished), maple, beech, ebony.
Appearance development.
Having required material you can start designing. First, the appearance of the handles. Let me make a reservation right away that the pens will not have a cap, nor will there be clips (to hang on your pocket). Actually, here are four pen options (drawn in Photoshop CS). By the way, none of them were realized in life; they did it differently.
Actually, it is clear that the very tip of the handle will be made of ebony, then beech and, finally, maple. The caps (screw-on ones, not the ones that cover the stem) will be made of brass and then polished.
Modeling.
Once the appearance is completely defined, we move on to 3D modeling of the handle. Why is this being done? The fact is that when you look at what should happen, it’s easier to do and imagine, besides, with the help of the model, all the dimensions of the handle (dimeters, lengths, depths) are determined, and from this model you can get the necessary drawings that They also help a lot in production (of course, the pen is a very simple object, I didn’t have to draw a model for it, I just decided to show the approach).
You can write a lot about how to draw a model, but this is a completely different topic, so it will not be touched upon. Let me just say that I modeled in the Solid Works 2008 program, and in it I created something similar to drawings.
Here are 3D models (top - right, top - bottom) front cap, rear cap, solid wood, ball rod, aluminum tube.
The same model, but assembled and with a wood texture applied.
The modeling is now complete, now let's move on to the materialization of our
project. It looks good on paper and feels even better in your hand. So,
manufacturing...
Manufacturing.
So, let's get down to the fun part - making what you drew. As I wrote earlier, during the manufacturing process both the appearance and size of the handles may change...
Making the central rod.
One of the most important details, since it closes the front and rear caps, it is also the most rigid part in the pen. The blank for the rod will be an aluminum tube with an external diameter of 6 millimeters and an internal diameter of 4 millimeters.
The rod will subsequently be “covered” with wood. For better adhesion of the “tube-glue-wood” bond, it is necessary to roughen the surface of the tubes, that is, make it rough (with sandpaper, a needle file, a file, it doesn’t matter). Next, wrap it with thread, preferably cotton (cotton thread will absorb adhesives better).
Tubes wrapped with thread. At this stage the tubes are ready.
Manufacturing of wooden shell.
As previously planned, the decorative shell will consist of three colors wood – black (ebony), reddish-brown – beech, cream – maple (if I didn’t name the colors correctly, don’t be alarmed, maybe I’m colorblind). The difference from the one drawn in Photoshop CS will be that most of it will be ebony, then beech, and least of all maple.
We have beech and ebony in the form of plates, therefore, we will have to glue two slats to increase the thickness. But the maple is in solid form and does not need re-gluing.
Ebony, beech, maple slats prepared for gluing (from top to bottom). Divorce epoxy resin(Ed-20). You can use polyester resin, but it is inferior in strength, and besides, during polymerization, styrene is released, which is harmful (for epoxy resin it is chlorine). When working with resin, it is highly advisable to use rubber gloves.
Spread with resin and compress with clamps.
After the resin has set (it does not dry out, but polymerizes, which is why experienced people say that the resin has set), you can begin dismemberment. To do this, we will use a miter box (roughly speaking, a template).
After simple movements back and forth, we get blanks for the “body” of the handle. The black and largest thing on the table is the miter box, it has grooves for a hacksaw.
Now the hardest part remains - drilling the hole for the tube. The difficulty is that the hole must be coaxial in each prepared handle kit. If the holes are not made of pine, then our planes will be mated not by a plane, but by a line, and we will get a gap, which, of course, will be filled with resin, but it will not look neat. Therefore, first I will drill a hole in the densest and longest workpiece - in ebony.
The drill is fixedly fixed, so we simply move our workpiece in the axial direction onto the drill, looking at the alignment from above by eye (if you don’t trust your eyes, then make guides that will be parallel to the drill).
Having drilled through the ebony, you need to glue it onto cyacrine (ethyl cyanoacrylate, in common parlance Super glue) to the beech, by the way, you need to glue it pointwise, grabbing it a little so that you can tear it off. Thus, the hole in the ebony will be a guide, and there will be no displacement. Drilling beech
After the hole is drilled in the beech (by the way, it will be blind, that is, not through, due to the fact that the drill is short), it is necessary to tear these halves apart and drill the hole through.
Assembly of the handle blank.
Assembly will be carried out using an epoxy binder (epoxy resin). First, after diluting the resin, we impregnate the thread on the rods; there should be no dry spots left. Then we string our sliced pieces onto tubes, like meat on a skewer, not forgetting to lubricate the mating planes with resin.
It turns out something similar to multi-colored sticks. The resin completely cures in 24 hours, but the polymerization process continues and the cured resin reaches maximum strength in about a week, provided that it has been properly prepared (the correct resin/hardener ratio; for ED-20 this is 10 parts of resin to 1 part of hardener) . All that remains is to squeeze it with clamps and wait a little.
When compressed with clamps, the gap between the workpieces becomes even smaller.
After the epoxy has cured, you can begin turning the handles. I will sharpen on a universal training lathe TV-6.
Handle turning (profiling).
As I wrote earlier, profiling will be carried out on a TV-6 lathe; it is on lathes that we can obtain almost any body of rotation (cylinder, ball, cone and others).
The lathe has a chuck into which one end of the handle is clamped and tailstock, into which the center is inserted. When we clamp a part into a chuck, we are left with a free, unsecured end of the part, which must be clamped with the center.
Once the workpiece is clamped in the machine, processing can begin. First, you need to process the workpiece in such a way as to obtain a cylinder with a diameter corresponding to the maximum diameter of the handle plus 0.5 millimeters for reserve.
The resulting cylinder must be narrowed towards the ends, thus giving it the shape of a handle. The easiest way to do this is first with a cutter, and then bring it to the desired state with sandpaper glued to a block.
After processing, we get a certain semi-finished product that needs to be processed with fine sandpaper to level the surface. We cut off the excess protruding aluminum tube.
Thread cutting.
Threads are required to attach the front and rear screw-off caps. Because the handle is quite thin, you need to be very careful when choosing the thread size. First of all, you need to decide on the diameter and pitch of the thread. The diameter will be 5 millimeters. Thread pitch is the distance between two adjacent threads. How more step, the larger the thread, and vice versa.
For handles, aesthetics and beauty are more important, rather than fastening strength, so the thread pitch is as small as possible - 0.5 millimeters. Moreover, than smaller step, the smaller the height of the thread and the smaller the diameter of the tube you can cut a thread without “breaking” it. The device for threading is called a tap. The taps are distinguished by numbers, 1, 2 and 3. The difference is that 1 is a tap that has a gentle approach and finer threads, 2 is a steeper approach and almost full-size thread, 3 is used for final finishing of the thread, where required high accuracy. I will use only the first one so that the thread is tighter, without backlash.
On the left is a two-marker, on the right is a unit-marker.
Before cutting the thread, you need to drill out the aluminum tube to a diameter of 4.6 millimeters (remember that inner diameter equal to 4 millimeters). Otherwise, the tap will ream the hole as if it were a reamer.
To cut threads, or rather to hold the tap, a wrench is used. When cutting threads, it is better to hold the handle in your hand, because vices, pliers and other holding devices will crush the handle and make its appearance disgusting. Also, when cutting threads, it is better to wrap the handle in foam rubber, since if we hold the handle in our hands, the grease, sweat and dirt that is on our hands will be absorbed into the wood, and this will be especially visible on light wood.
The thread must be cut to a depth of at least 10 millimeters. This is due to the fact that the length of the thread in the cap is 10 millimeters.
Finished carving in the handle.
Applying an inscription.
In order for the pen to be even more unique and to become part of its owner, that is, to become personalized, it is necessary to put a name on it. The name will be printed on the lightest part of the handle (maple). The principle of writing the inscription is as follows:
1. In Photoshop CS, draw a name, the type of font of the name that we want to see on the pen.
2. Invert the image vertically or horizontally. It doesn't matter how, the point is to get a mirror image of our drawing.
3. Resize the image so that it fits perfectly on the light part of the handle and does not stick out anywhere. In this case, the length ( largest size) is equal to 20 millimeters, and the height is determined proportionally.
After these operations, we print several image data on a sheet using laser printer (laser, not inkjet or matrix, otherwise nothing will work).
But before I apply the image to the pen, I will first try to apply it to a test piece of wood.
How to do it, cut off a small piece with our image, fix it with paper tape on the workpiece. Next, take a heated iron and heat up our image. Heating must be done carefully, since if overheated, the paper can stick to the piece of wood and remain on it in pieces (image transfer is carried out almost according to the same principle as in laser printer; The coloring substance in a laser printer is toner (powder), which, when heated, “sinters” and sticks to the surface on which it was located before heating, therefore, if toner spills on clothing, you should not wash it in hot water).
Having practiced cutting, we will begin to apply the image directly to the handle itself.
We fix it, and after heating we get it. As you can see in the picture, the name does not look very contrasting, that is, it is not a radically black color, therefore, we take a black gel pen in our hand and carefully outline the contours. The result is clearly visible in the following photo (the letter “A” is not completely circled).
Once the lettering is completely outlined, leave the pen alone to allow the paste to dry. At this point, the application of the inscription can be considered complete.
Making caps.
Unfortunately, when I sharpened the caps, I didn’t have a camera at hand, so there are no photos of the manufacturing process. There are only photographs already finished products. Therefore, I will try to describe the manufacturing process in words.
We put before our eyes the drawing drawn earlier. First, we need to decide on the size locally. The maximum diameter of the cap will be equal to the small diameter of the handle on the side on which the cap will be. Then we sharpen the “protrusion” for the thread (diameter 5 millimeters). Having turned it, we cut the external thread with a tool (a tool for cutting external threads, unlike dies, a tool is a one-piece tool, and therefore gives a more accurate thread, especially of small diameters). And only after this, precisely after cutting the thread, do we drill a hole. Why after threading? It's simple, the fact is that if we first drill a hole, then we have a case where we will cut a thread on a tube. Thread cutting is accompanied by a large twisting moment acting on the rod (tube) on which we are cutting, as a result of which the tube may simply break. It is for this reason that we first cut the thread and then drill.
After cutting the thread and drilling the hole, you can begin external design ogival cap shape.
Having brought the cap to the shape you like (similar to the drawing shape), take some sandpaper and level the surface (the fact is that after turning, “rings” remain on the material). We use several skins of different grain sizes to achieve best results. And, finally, take a felt circle (felt boots are also made from felt), apply GOI paste (polishing paste) to it and polish the cap so that the metal looks uniform, without rings or scratches.
To achieve even greater shine, you can rub the caps on paper, the most ordinary sheet of paper.
Varnishing the handle.
So we have come to the last, final stage. To protect the wood from which the handle is made from atmospheric conditions, hand sweat, and grease, we will coat the handle with varnish. At first I wanted to use epoxy resin for the coating, but it turned out to be thick, and when diluted with methyl alcohol after curing, it remained soft and loose, like jelly. This option, of course, is not suitable.
This was followed by a trip to the store, or rather to the construction supplies supermarket. Most of all I was interested in the shelves with paint and varnish coatings. In general, after being there for a short time, I chose glossy parquet varnish. In theory, the varnish is specially designed for surfaces that are most susceptible to abrasion.
I will apply varnish using the “pouring method”, that is, completely lower the handle into a jar of varnish and place it in a place where the excess varnish will quietly drain and leave an even glossy layer. Why this method? Everything is simple, the handles are mostly made at home and varnished too, so coating with a spray gun is immediately unnecessary, since the scatter when spraying the varnish will be very large and will stain everything around. Brush. You can also cover it with a brush, but in this case the directions in which you moved the brush will be visible on the handle, and the remaining lint does not bring joy.
Before dipping, it is necessary to cover, for example, the hole at the bottom with plasticine, thereby protecting the thread from varnish getting into it.
The photograph shows that when the varnish flows down, it forms transverse irregularities, similar to waves. But, after the excess varnish has drained, the surface will become glossy and shiny.
After 24 hours, remove the handles, carefully clean the ends with a scalpel from any remaining varnish, clean out all the plasticine, screw on the caps, inserting the paste. After the operations performed, we will receive two different, and at the same time, two identical products.
Upper: short, blunt, rounded
Lower: long, sharp, slightly rounded
Unique topic visitors: 80
A regular pen can be easily purchased at any store. But it is almost impossible to buy an exclusive hand-made pen, and if it is possible, then in very expensive boutiques and for a lot of money. Ordinary people cannot afford such expenses. But you can make it yourself from an ordinary piece of wood and small devices. At the same time, the pen will be a wonderful designer gift that everyone will appreciate.
In the video you can see how to create such a handle from wood
To create a handle we will need:
- two metal tubes;
- rod;
- mechanism for handle;
- wooden forms;
- sandpaper;
- glue;
- lathe.
Let's get to work. First of all, we clean our metal tubes using a small piece of sandpaper.
After both tubes are cleaned, carefully coat them with glue on the outside and insert them into wooden forms.
If you don’t have such forms, then it’s easy to make them yourself; just take a small piece of wood, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the planned thickness of the handle, and drill a hole exactly in the center, the diameter of which will be equal to the diameter of the metal tubes so that they fit tightly into workpiece The length of the form must be the same as the length of the tube; this is an important working condition.
When the tubes are glued inside the forms, we put them on a lathe for further processing.
We turn on the machine and begin processing the wooden forms, giving them the required shape, which will be the handle.
After the required shape and desired dimensions are achieved, we rub the wood with a special impregnation and varnish so that it lasts as long as possible.
Remove the handle base from the lathe. Now all that remains is to assemble the handle.
First, insert the tip of the future pen into one of the blanks and press it into the base until it clicks. After this, we fasten the connection for the two workpieces in the same way. The so-called jumper or thread, which will connect two parts of the workpieces into a whole.
Insert the rod and check its location.
Then we insert a cap into the second blank that will cover the rod, and also press it into the wood.
A good housewife never throws anything away. And this is correct, because any thing, after it has ceased to be used for its intended purpose, can be tried to be converted into something else.
Thread holder
What can be made from pens that no longer write? Perfect solution- spool holder. This will be especially useful for women who are actively engaged in sewing. For this you only need wooden base with holes for used writing instruments. That's it, the stand is ready!
Stand
What else can you make from pens? As an option - a stand for the stationery itself. To do this, you will need a used DVD that will serve as a base, and a lot of old pens that will be glued to the rim of the disc. It's good if they are different colors and length, so the thing will turn out bright and extraordinary.
Weapon
Now let's make something for the boys. Let's look at how to make a pistol from a pen. To do this you will need a writing object with a spring. The structure is completely disassembled and reassembled in the reverse order: first the spring, then the handle. That's it, the gun is ready. And the bullets for such weapons will be small, dense lumps of paper. You can also make nunchucks from handles - an oriental weapon. And, by the way, it will be safe for health. So, we will need two simple pens, the same number of matches and a cord. The handles are completely emptied of their contents, a cord is pulled through them and secured at the ends with matches (so that it cannot jump back out). That's it, the weapon is ready to use! And another very simple way to create a weapon from the cavity of a pen (by the way, this is generally a classic!): you just need to remove all the contents, leaving a bare tube through which it is very convenient to spit small pieces of paper. Why not a weapon in the fight against boys?
Hook
What else can you make from pens? A great option is a crochet hook holder. To do this, you just need to choose a comfortable handle, insert the desired product into it - instead of paste - and secure it with glue or melted polyethylene. This crochet hook will be easy and convenient to use!
On a hike
A holder for camping forks and spoons is another variation on the theme: “What can you make from pens?” Everyone knows that such cutlery often does not have a long handle, but only a removable holder. But what if he gets lost? It's simple: use your used stationery! But in such a situation, most likely, you will have to cut the product a little so that the devices fit into it normally.
Crossbow
Our next tip will tell you how to make a crossbow from a pen. For this, however, you will need additional parts: four new unsharpened pencils, seven erasers for paper (money) and an old pen. First you need to make the base. To do this, you need to make a T-shaped structure from two pairs of pencils, pressed tightly against each other (everything is secured with stationery erasers). The handle is attached to the bottom of the letter T with several strips of tape (no paste ampoule, just the cavity itself). The rubber band is twisted at the ends of the pencils (on the head of the letter T), you can attach a wide insert in the center to make it easier to insert “ammunition.” The arrow itself (most likely ordinary paste) is inserted into the handle and launched using a bowstring. This is such a simple invention.
