The end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the plot. It is not surprising, therefore, how advanced sewer systems for country houses and materials for them have become today. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home craftsman to install with his own hands.
Any system for drainage and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small it may be, needs to build a diagram that will demonstrate the size of the system on a scale and help in choosing:
- the type of plumbing and its placement, including additional suppliers of wastewater, such as a bathhouse;
- internal pipe routing route;
- exit points of the sewer system from the building;
- passing the sewer line outside the building;
- type of equipment and its location on the site;
- materials needed to create the system.
Types of sewer system
The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:
- cesspools;
- storage tanks;
- two-chamber septic tanks;
- septic tanks with filtration;
- septic tanks with biofilter;
- septic tanks with forced air supply.
Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system reminiscent of the modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.
The time-tested method of draining wastewater is simple and cheap. To construct a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed. 
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, household liquid waste flows through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of this waste are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.
This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of wastewater from the house per day does not exceed a cubic meter. This amount allows microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.
When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the dacha is visited by a small number of people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewer system is becoming less and less popular among country homeowners today. 
A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be made of plastic, brick, concrete, or metal, provided that this container is hermetically sealed.
This is especially true for land plots where the groundwater level is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from contamination. The only inconvenience of this system is its dependence on frequent calls for vacuum cleaners, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high. 
This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered with a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture from below.
Did you know?The all-round genius Leonardo da Vinci even invented a flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, since at that time there was no water supply or sewage system at all.
The wastewater flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise to the top, and partially purified water is located in the middle.
Both volumes are connected to each other by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. According to it, which has already partly become more clean water flows into the second tank. And there she is, passing through sand-crushed stone mixture, and also through the soil, it is further purified. 
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewer trucks.
But it is recommended to equip a second container only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-crushed stone mixture needs to be changed every five years.
It consists of a tank divided into several sections connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.
The first tank is used to settle liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the container. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even purer, after which it flows into the third reservoir. 
And from it, through the ground, the water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-crushed stone mixture, where it is purified up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is advisable only where there is a large area of land.
After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source drinking water the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration areas themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. In addition, groundwater should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.
This type of purification device is different in that it can be used on land where the groundwater level is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.
In the first tank, the wastewater settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified using anaerobic microorganisms and, in a more clarified form, is sent to the third separator compartment, and from there to the fourth. 
And there it is already treated with aerobic bacteria. They require a constant supply fresh air, coming here using a pipe that is brought out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing cars and other household needs.
This method of sewage treatment is most in demand in country houses with people permanently residing there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And although it is easy to introduce bacteria into the system through the toilet, for full recovery Their full activity will have to wait about two weeks.
This installation, using electricity, significantly enhances wastewater treatment. It does this by forcing atmospheric air, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.
This type of purification device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, or three different tanks connected to each other through inclined pipes.
Primary purified wastewater from the first compartment is poured into the aeration tank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. That's exactly what they need forced submission fresh air.
After this, the more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into a third container, where, after settling, it undergoes better cleaning, and the sludge that is in the sediment is returned to the aeration tank using a pump. 
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, resulting in water being purified much faster and more efficiently.
And although the installation consumes little electricity, it nevertheless requires an electrical network, which is partly its disadvantage. The operation of this system also requires continuous residence of one of the household members in the house.
How to install a sewer system with your own hands
With a high-quality scheme of the future sewer system and with the presence of all necessary materials you can proceed directly to its phased construction.
There are three stages, which include:
- installation of an internal sewerage system;
- laying pipes outside the house;
- construction of treatment facilities.
Pipe and riser routing
Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing fixtures to a vertically standing pipe, which is the riser. And it connects to the main line that outputs sewage out.
Ideally, it is advisable to couple the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite possible to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.
In this case, the following requirements should be adhered to:
- Since wastewater from plumbing fixtures is discharged by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
- Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
- The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
- The intra-house sewer system requires ventilation, for which the riser is discharged outside with a slight elevation above the roof.
Important!The toilet must be connected to horizontal wiring in the lowest part of it on the floor.
Pipe routing
If pipes are laid in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:
- with the help of scraping, ditches are made in the walls, in which the pipes are hidden;
- lay them on the floor;
- fixed to the walls using clamps.
The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with the plumbing. The main thing when laying horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.
The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter section should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.
Video: routing sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drainage will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the harder parts of the drain cannot keep up with it and are retained in the pipeline.
Installation and assembly of the riser
The installation of an internal sewer system begins with the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and carries the wastewater outside, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation rising above the roof.
Important!The best option is when there is only one riser for the entire house.
Installation and installation of the riser are carried out in the following sequence:
- On the wall, where the future riser will pass, you need to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, the width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. When attaching the pipe externally to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. The fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes; the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
- Then it is necessary to pre-assemble the riser and attach it to the wall to check whether all dimensions were correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. Installation locations are immediately determined fastening elements, if external installation of the riser on the wall is provided. It should be taken into account that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall; the gap between them must be at least 3 cm.
- Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled using seals and secured with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
- Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the wastewater outside. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a waste pipe rising above the roof.
Fan pipes used for ventilation of sewerage systems connect the internal system with external environment by helping:
- remove harmful and foul-smelling gases generated in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
- maintain the required pressure inside the system.
For all their usefulness, vent pipes are not at all necessary in all house constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house where the volume of wastewater is small, this device can be completely dispensed with. But in large houses, with two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fan devices are certainly necessary.
They work on the principle of sucking atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let in atmospheric air when its pressure in the system drops, but prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping outside. 
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of buildings, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in the attics of buildings.
The sewer outlet is a system of pipes that is located under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the in-house collector and the external part of the sewer system.
The most difficult point in its construction is the exit to the outside under or through the foundation to connect to the external pipeline.
The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is discharged through the foundation to the outside. 
The external sewer network starts from the outlet leaving the foundation and goes to the treatment device, where it delivers liquid waste from the house.
To install an out-of-home sewerage section, you should adhere to the following rules:
- the external pipeline must be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
- if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
- Every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and at its turns it is necessary to install inspection wells.
Apart from digging a trench to a frost-free depth, laying the pipe does not require much effort:
- First, the trench is prepared, which consists of the required depth and slope towards the cleaning device.
- A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
- A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
- The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
- The trench is filled with previously excavated soil.
- The landscape damaged by these operations is being restored.
Ancients cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of them is a large tank, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.
Video: choosing a septic tank for a private home
This component suburban sewerage is most rationally used in areas with high level groundwater, as well as in country houses and dachas, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.
If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and is constantly inhabited by a large number of residents, then it is necessary to install a septic tank with soil-based wastewater treatment or with forced aeration.
Device
The storage type of sewer system works very simply: liquid waste flows into a reservoir and accumulates in it without coming into any contact with the surrounding soil. After the container is completely filled with wastewater, it is necessary to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners to remove it.
Both large factory-made plastic tanks and those made independently from brick, concrete, etc. are used as storage containers. concrete rings or iron barrels welded together. 
Different types of septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which solid waste elements precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using various filtration methods.
The choice of one type of septic tank or another is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent inhabitants in it and the plumbing fixtures they use.
Construction
To build a storage tank you should:
- Dig a pit.
- Install a concrete base in it.
- Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the vacuum cleaner hose, which should be tightly closed at all other times.
- Instead of bricks, you can use concrete rings or welded metal ones.
They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:
- First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
- Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
- For concrete and plastic containers Concreting of the base is required.
- After this, you need to install the tank.
- The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage is supplied, and purified water comes out of the other.
- Then, if necessary, it is possible to add water purification elements using soil.
- Hatches should also be installed.
- And finally, you need to fill the container with previously removed soil.
Alternative options
If anyone does not want or is not yet able to install in their country house or a sewer system at the dacha, he has the opportunity to do without it using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not require connection to the sewerage system.
Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:
Peat, as is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators for composting waste products. In liquid, special solutions are used to speed up the processing of waste products.
And electric ones, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.
Despite the apparent complexity of this process, installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite within the capabilities of a home craftsman. With a correctly drawn up diagram of the future system, the availability of materials and great desire To bring your plans to life, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.
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Hard to call comfortable a private house, not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network is subject to requirements for environmental friendliness and efficiency; The drainage system of a private home should be simple to install and easy to use.
Schematic diagram of a sewer system in a private house
One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; How to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will be helped by empirically tested rules.
Types of sewerage systems in a private house
All houses located in the private sector are divided into two categories:
Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases - best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned expenses and water quality control.
Houses where connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is unavailable is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, sewerage installation in a private house comes down to stand-alone option, where water purification and waste disposal occur in locally installed treatment facilities.
You can also combine sewer and drainage systems
The autonomous sewerage system includes:
Internal sewerage responsible for collecting wastewater and discharging it outside. This includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.
External sewerage . Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).
The most suitable type of individual cleaning equipment (in terms of performance) is selected taking into account several factors:
seasonality of living in the house;
intensity of water use;
plot size, soil type and structure;
level groundwater;
climatic conditions of the region.
The first stage of sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary project diagram.
Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram in a house
The sewerage diagram in a private house is tied to the house plan. It must contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drainage points.
When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will cause problems in the future during operation and repair.
Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and ceilings are installed, but Finishing work premises has not yet been completed. External sewerage is installed after internal system fully furnished. Below is a sewerage diagram for a private two-story house:
General scheme internal sewerage in a two-story house
The procedure for drawing up a diagram:
All drawings are drawn to scale; the installation location of the riser, pipe laying lines, and the number of drain points (connection of plumbing and household appliances) are indicated on the plan.
The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (taking into account the outlet), and the exit point from the main riser structure.
In places where blockages may form, cleaning and inspection are provided.
A separate drawing is constructed for each floor.
Calculate the size and installation location fan pipe(in large sewer systems it prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the sewer pipe)
The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer design and installation services for sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
About the sewerage diagram with a waste pipe in the video:
Selection of pipes for internal sewerage
Building codes allow following categories pipes:
Cast iron. Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion-resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and blockages. Pipes are ideal for laying in the ground.
Plastic. They are lighter and cheaper than cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for intra-house wiring have grey colour; intended for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:
Pipes from PVC(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from high temperature and are mainly used in outdoor work.
Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and wear-resistant. They are valued for their heat resistance (soften only at 140 C°), making them ideal for indoor use.
Plastic pipes for internal and external circuits
Less common ceramic And asbestos-cement analogues.
In practice, installation of sewerage in a private house is in most cases carried out using products from polymer materials(plastic). The choice is determined by the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to aggressive environment wastewater), and easy installation designs.
How to make a sewer line
The most labor-intensive part of the work is considered to be the installation of sewerage for a private home; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.
Inside the house
Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are installed parallel to the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.
The sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:
Sewer riser, diameter 100 mm.
Main (between the riser and the outlet); diameter 70 mm.
Tap-off (connected to washbasin, bathtub, washing machine) – 50 mm.
Completed installation of the outlet pipe
The drainage system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are installed with a slope, the magnitude of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per linear meter, with a diameter of 100 mm – 20 mm.
Completed ceiling wiring
Horizontal wiring is carried out using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45°; This arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, inspections (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are permissible only in vertically located structures.
Fan pipe
If a large amount of waste suddenly enters the sewer, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of low water is created behind them. atmospheric pressure(vacuum), into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.
When the pressure equalizes, without a water plug, the smell from the sewer enters the room through the siphons. To prevent the occurrence of vacuum, a fan pipe is installed with air valve– they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.
Features of the fan pipe:
It is designed and installed 50-70 cm above the roof.
It is prohibited to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.
It is not placed near windows or balconies.
Outlet of the exhaust (waste) pipe through the roof
External part
Installation of the external part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.
Release ( connecting link between the external and internal sewerage at the boundary of the room) is laid in the foundation of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not provided for when laying the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the protective sleeve, 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.
Laying external communications
It is reasonable to place wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) nearby and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help reduce the length of sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.
A large project (swimming pool, bathhouse, sauna) and additional plumbing means a large volume of waste. A carefully designed water supply and drainage system, additional risers and septic tanks, and a pump connection will be required.
Sewage pipes in a private house can be located under the floor, in the walls, or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which foreign odors will not be able to penetrate into the premises.
It is unacceptable to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noise. As the slope decreases, the flow of water slows down, which can lead to blockages.
Slope control when laying sewerage
The complex terrain of the site creates additional problems for laying a pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is constructed that allows one to determine the position of the sewerage elements in space. If difficult places there is no way around it, the solution is to install a pump.
You can clearly see some of the nuances of sewerage in the video:
Conclusion
Well designed and organized system sewerage will help create minimum required comfort for the inhabitants of the house. Achieving this worthy goal is facilitated by the involvement of specialized specialists. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a wooden or brick house - the principles of operation of the system are the same everywhere.
It's hard to imagine a country cottage without a civilized toilet and a cozy bathroom. But not every village is equipped with a waste collection system. Therefore, sewerage in a private house is carried out separately. Don't know which system to choose? This article will tell you about all the features of sewerage in a private house.
We described possible ways organization of waste collection, identified their features of arrangement and use. And also brought step-by-step instructions on drawing up a project, installation of a sewer pipeline, installation of a septic tank and drainage well.
There are several types of waste collection systems: central, storage, drainage, filtration.
Central. The house's waste pipe is connected to the general sewer network, through which organic waste is collected in the city sewer.
Depending on the distance of the central pipeline to the house, a decision is made on the advisability of using an autonomous or central system sewer
Accumulation system- modern prototype. The main difference is the complete sealing of the waste collection point. It can be: concrete, brick, metal, plastic. To do this, remotely from residential building A ditch for a container is dug out on a plot of land.
Principle of operation storage system comes down to the discharge of organic compounds into sealed container. When it is full, the contents are pumped out sewage treatment plant by car.
This scheme for installing an individual sewer system in a private house has gained wide popularity due to its low cost.
Pipe ventilation arrangement
The sewer exhaust system is designed to balance the negative pressure inside the pipeline. Due to the connection of sewer pipes with the atmosphere, the system is leveled.
As ventilation system used:
- air valve.
Fan hood is a continuation of the central riser. It is installed above the roof ridge at a distance of 30-50 cm. To protect against precipitation, a deflector is attached to the outlet, which further enhances traction.
Installing a fan hood for a private cottage is extremely impractical. Such a system will require insulation of the pipeline, as well as the allocation of a separate ventilation duct in the partitions.
Air valve- perfect option. It is easy to install into the pipeline. The device is installed directly indoors. The valve is equipped with a soft rubber membrane that only allows air to pass inward.
For a two-story house, one device is enough. The valve is installed on the second floor.
Connection diagram for waste water discharge points to central pipe. The difference in height between the dishwasher and toilet drainage connections determines the overall angle of inclination of the pipeline
Stage No. 3 - installation of a septic tank
If you decide to make a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands, then it is better to install a septic tank made of concrete rings or a ready-made plastic tank.
The volume of the container for collecting and settling organic waste is determined by calculation. Be sure to add extra cube. The pipe insertion point is located at a distance of 2/3 from the top edge of the septic tank, so it is not filled to the top.
Construction of a septic tank
The first step is to dig three holes for installing containers. To save time and financial costs, it is advisable to combine two settling tanks into one.
The bottom of the dug hole should be reinforced with a concrete base. Concrete cannot be placed on the ground, so add a layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick.
For the construction of the base, formwork is installed from construction board. It must be secured with reinforcement along the outer and inner perimeter.
Use the same mixture composition as for pouring the foundation. In this case, be sure to lay a knitted mesh as a reinforcing element. It is better to take M500 grade cement, since the weight of the filled container will be large.
After the base has hardened, and this will not happen earlier than after 3 weeks, proceed to installing the drives.
Using a crane, they install it into the dug hole. When the first link is laid, the joint with the base must be coated cement mortar or tile adhesive. This way you will achieve tightness.
Do the same with subsequent rings. Before installing the second and third, first apply a layer of mortar to the joints. After installing all the links, re-process the joints inside the container. When the tank is installed, a brick partition is made inside.
Mounted for cleaning. The horizontal partition is made of a concrete slab with holes for plastic covers.
The last step is all the inner surfaces of the two containers.
It is worth keeping in mind that the outlet from the first container should be 10 cm lower than the first - the entrance from the house.
The angle of inclination is determined by the same parameters as for home wiring: with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, the height difference per 1 m is 20 mm.
Installation diagram of a drainage septic tank with two sealed tanks. The presence of a second container allows you to filter water from silt and other contaminants
To ensure that the slope of the pipe complies with the standards, the inlet of the second settling tank is lowered by 10 cm relative to the first.
On top part tanks, as well as insulation is attached to the inside of the cleaning hatches. Cleanout or inspection hatches are installed directly above the overflow pipes so that they can be cleaned.
For device concrete base not required. Here the soil under the rings should allow water to pass through and retain sewage.
Therefore, a sand-crushed stone cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit. The thicker the layer of crushed stone, the longer the well will perform its functions. Will have to be replaced after 5 years upper layer crushed stone for the new one, because the old one will silt.
Keep an eye on the level. When installing the first ring on crushed stone, one edge may become warped. If this happens, simply lift the link with a crane and level the level with crushed stone.
The joints of the rings must be treated with a solution to achieve a tight seal. The construction of waterproofing and an inspection hatch is similar to a sump.
Organization of septic tank ventilation
Installation of ventilation pipes for septic tanks is justified only if aerobic bacteria are used. They intensively absorb air supplied through the hood.
Another type of biological bacteria are anaerobes. Their life processes take place without oxygen.
It is important not to confuse these two concepts, since some anaerobes die if there is air in the environment.
Added to settling tanks. Bacteria completely convert organic matter into water. In practice, this effect can only be achieved by installing complex filtration systems, but they still need to be used. Therefore, install a ventilation pipe in both sumps.
PVC sewer pipe for outdoor use is discharged from each container through a lid. A deflector is installed at the end.
Stage No. 4 - laying the central pipe
The sewer pipe, which removes sewage from the house, is diverted from the base to a distance of 5 m. The pipeline for external use is painted orange. This product differs from “home” pipes in having thicker walls. The permissible laying depth is 3 m.
A layer of sand of 8-10 cm is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole, as well as on top of the laid pipe. To ensure the best removal of organic waste from the house to the septic tank tanks, the pipe should run in one line. Turns of the central drain are strictly prohibited.
Alternatives to a drainage septic tank
A modern device that allows you to purify wastewater by 90% or more is a deep cleaning station.
Biological filtration devices are equipped with three degrees of purification$
- biological treatment with bacteria;
- mechanical filtration with meshes;
- final cleaning with chemical compounds.
It will not be possible to install such a sewer system on your own. The stations are produced in a single container, divided internally into several compartments. The device is volatile.
The compressor unit pumps air into the aerobic compartment for increased bacterial activity. Percentage of water purification, depending on the septic tank model
When the power is turned off, the bacteria will continue to live for up to two days. After this period, the installation loses its effectiveness. For cultivation new culture it will take a few days
Deep purification of organic matter allows you to use waste water for watering plants. For this purpose it is installed storage tank with pump.
It is advisable to use deep cleaning stations when groundwater located too close to the ground surface. Also, if the site has clay soil, natural drainage will be difficult.
In addition to a biological septic tank, a sealed tank can serve as a way out of the situation. It will have to be pumped out often, but you won't have any other problems.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The intricacies of sewerage installation are outlined by the author of the video, who is busy laying sewer pipes:
The construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings will be discussed in the following video:
Sewerage installation in a private house - important stage construction. Even at the design stage, the owner should think about future design septic tanks, their location, as well as the filtration system.
The comfort of everyone living in the house will depend on the correct arrangement of the sewer system, therefore, if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to entrust its arrangement to specialists.
July 7, 2016Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works
Of course, it is best if the sewerage installation in a private house is done with your own hands simultaneously with laying the foundation, even before the construction of the building frame. Of course, this requires preliminary design and planning, but this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation strip and dismantling the floor covering.
But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.
Installation of sewerage pipeline
Five important requirements
First, I want to list you five basic requirements, without which not a single installation of sewer pipes in a private house can be done. But I will do this briefly in order to concentrate your attention on further installation instructions.
- In any case, no matter where you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to maintain a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to a storage or flow tank - from correct slope The quality of the drain depends. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again the preconditions for clogging will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
- If this is a sewerage installation in an apartment, then there are short sections of pipeline, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires inserting revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on a site exceeds 10 m, inspection wells should be installed there.
- When laying a sewer system in a private house (underground installation is meant), certain distances to objects and structures must be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
- To avoid freezing of the system in winter, the pipeline must be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
- Pipes should be laid only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.
Indoor sewerage
First of all, you should firmly understand that the sewerage layout in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in principle. In 99% of cases, the most extreme point will always be the toilet flush - this is a 110 mm pipe, into which all other bathrooms are inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the top diagram.
In any case, at the exit from the room, be it a riser or a sun lounger, a 110 pipe is used, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other waste systems are connected there.
Of course, the slope in the room is also important - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drainage is forced - a counter-slope is even possible there if the characteristics of the room require it.
In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main drainage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you better use the table that I give below.
Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes
To connect pipes to each other, to make turns and to change to another diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, all, even the most complex, connections are made. Basically, the sewerage is installed in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is located, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.
An automatic washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not at all necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons with a special outlet are produced, as shown in the top photo.
By by and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such an outlet, but I personally prefer to make a drain for this with a 32 mm pipe, cutting it into a 50 mm one through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.
The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets- they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room, which does not need to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.
If you need to hide the pipes, then certain inconveniences arise. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal strip hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.
It happens that during assembly, one pipe fits very tightly into the socket of another, crushing the rubber sealing ring - this usually happens when elements are connected from different manufacturers.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring liquid agent for washing dishes, and all problems are left behind.
Underground pipeline installation on the street
| City and surrounding areas | Depth in cm |
| Khanty-Mansiysk | 240 |
| Novosibirsk, Omsk | 220 |
| Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk | 210 |
| Orsk, Kurgan | 200 |
| Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm | 190 |
| Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar | 180 |
| Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk | 170 |
| Samara, Ulyanovsk | 160 |
| Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda | 150 |
| Tver, Moscow, Ryazan | 140 |
| St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd | 120 |
| Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov | 110 |
| Astrakhan, Belgorod | 100 |
| Rostov-on-Don | 90 |
| Stavropol | 80 |
| Kaliningrad | 70 |
| Khanty-Mansiysk | 240 |
| Novosibirsk, Omsk | 220 |
Table of soil freezing to 0⁰C in Russia
As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the area above sea level and the condition or type of soil.
Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the freezing depth. That is, simply find out from neighbors or friends at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best guide.
As I already said, instructions for deepening a pipeline can sometimes be too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is installed at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool can be used for this.
There are also special insulation materials that are produced in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal cut for installation.
I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although High Quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the wool with nylon thread, and then cover the whole thing with roofing felt, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.
Only here you need either basalt or glass wool - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.
You will nullify everything if, having insulated the route, you leave inspection wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will end up with bare areas that will be. You can also use them to insulate them. mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is much cheaper to do this with expanded clay, but it also requires waterproofing - just cover the hole with roofing felt.
Table of required distances between various objects and sewerage
In the third paragraph of the title about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between the sewerage system and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to strictly adhere to such provisions, or your “well-wishing” neighbors may unreasonably claim this.
Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and internal sewerage outlets - this will solve such problems.
Laying stages: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - cover it with sand
And now I will tell you how the process of laying a pipeline in a trench with your own hands to a storage or flow tank occurs - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to pour a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm into it and level it in accordance with the required slope (18-20 mm/m linear for the 110th pipe).
Then you lay the pipeline itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the thickness of the layer above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.
Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the instability of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I water the sand generously, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour in the soil.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I would like to add that you may need pipeline insulation not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not replace the sand cushion. But if you still have questions about this topic, ask them in the comments.
July 7, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Without a working sewer system, a country cottage instantly turns into comfortable home into a slum shack. But in order for the drainage in the sink and toilet to function correctly and without breakdowns, the sewerage installation in a private house must be done in strict compliance with the standards of the relevant SNiPs. It is important from the very beginning to correctly assemble the riser and select the slope of the pipes to it from the plumbing fixtures. The choice of material for the pipe products themselves and the fittings for them is also important.
Requirements
It is customary to work out the sewerage layout in a cottage at the design stage of a residential building. It is better to decide in advance on the location of all plumbing and pipes in the house. Direct installation of sewage pipelines with your own hands or with the involvement of plumbers is carried out after the construction of the walls, but before finishing.
Sewage wiring diagram in the house
In order for the indoor sewage system to work properly and without blockages, it is necessary:
- maintain proper slope drain pipes from plumbing to riser;
- minimize the number of turns and bends in sewer pipelines;
- choose the size and material of pipe products correctly;
- provide for the possibility of removing gases from the sewerage system (waste drain);
- install siphons to form water seals;
- install hatches for inspection and cleaning in the right places;
- thermally insulate the sewer pipe on the street and in the basement (if necessary).
Two main documents regulating the installation of sewerage pipelines in a private house and the discharge of wastewater into the village sewer network or a septic tank - these are SNiPs 2.04.01-85 (SP 30.13330.2012) and 2.04.03-85 (SP 32.13330.2012). They describe all the nuances of designing and installing a system for discharging domestic wastewater from a cottage.
The principle of sewer wiring
Regardless of the number of floors in a private house, the layout of the sewer system in it is built around the main vertical riser. Horizontal drains and outlets from plumbing fixtures are already connected to it. From below, the outlet to the street is connected to this central pipe to the septic tank or village drainage network. And on top of it there is a fan ventilation outlet to the roof.
If the house is one-story, and the only plumbing fixtures in it are a toilet and a sink with a bathtub, then you can refuse the riser. However vertical pipe ventilation will still have to be done, otherwise all the smells from the sewer will somehow end up in the cottage. Even siphons will not save you in this situation. Pressure drops when draining water will cause the water seals to fail, resulting in sewer stench from the pipes into the kitchen and bathroom.
Pipes for sewer distribution in the house
To independently install sewerage in a private house, you will need:
- pipes with a diameter of 50 (for bends) and 110 mm (for the riser);
- tees and elbows;
- plugs;
- inspection hatches;
- siphons for sinks, bathtubs and shower cabins;
- fastening elements (clamps).
It is recommended to take plastic pipes for sewerage in a cottage, made of PVC or polypropylene. The former are cheaper, and the latter are more resistant to household chemicals and high temperatures. Also for country house you can take cast iron analogues. They are more durable, but more difficult to work with. If plastic is cut with a regular hacksaw, then for cast iron you will need a grinder or a gas autogen. Plus for the pressure system it will be necessary sewage pump(installation with a small storage tank in the basement).
Scheme of natural sewerage of a private house
Wiring diagrams
The installation of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out according to one of two schemes:
- Natural (by gravity).
- Forced, pressure (with pump).
It is best and most correct to give preference to the first, with gravity flow of wastewater. The forced installation option should be used only as a last resort, when it is impossible to ensure natural drainage of wastewater from the building. Such a system is energy dependent; if there is a power outage, the sewage system will stop working. Internal storage pumping unit It can absorb a certain amount of impurities, but it is limited.
Forced sewerage scheme
Installation procedure
The sewage system in the house is assembled from the bottom up. First, an outlet is made in the basement (output through the foundation of the cottage) to connect the street and indoor parts of the drainage system. Then the riser rises upward, installing a tee or cross on each floor above the floor to connect horizontal outlets.
Features of installing sewer pipe connections in a private house
The opening in the foundation is made 400x400 mm or more in size. There should be a free space of about 150 mm from the pipe to the edge of this hole. It is necessary so that when the cottage settles and the soil swells in winter, the outlet does not become deformed or destroyed. The remaining gap is sealed with clay and tow.
Installation of risers
Installation of the riser consists of sequential installation of individual parts on top of each other. Their connection and fixation with each other is carried out due to the presence of a socket at the end of these elements. From the floor on the first floor, a tee is first installed on the branches. Then there is a pipe about a meter high. Then a revision is installed. And then another pipe is installed to pass the ceiling to the next floor. There is a tee again and everything repeats.
Installation of drainage system
There should be about 1–1.5 m from the floor level to the inspection hatch. If the pipeline is made of plastic products, then the riser must be attached to the wall using clamps on dowels. Moreover, there should be a gap of 15–20 cm from the wall surface to the pipe. And the clamps should be placed under the sockets and with a distance of 4–5 meters from each other in height.
The passage through the ceiling and the space above it, after installing the pipe, is filled with cement mortar with a thickness of 2–3 cm from the pipe and a height of 8–10 cm above the floor. This concrete edging is made to protect the riser, provide sound insulation and prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire.
Installation of a drain pipe using adapters
Installation of bends
The bends are installed at a slope from the plumbing fixtures of 25–35 mm per linear meter. If the slope is made smaller, the wastewater will stagnate in the sewer pipeline. And with less, the drains will flow too quickly, as a result of which heavy particles and grease will begin to settle inside, gradually forming a blockage.
Length horizontal line should not exceed 10 m. If it is laid open method, then the pipeline can still be increased by a couple of meters. However, this is unacceptable for sewer pipes closed with a screed. And in any case, for every 8 m of the horizontal section, it is necessary to provide an inspection for cleaning. The sloped outlet is fixed with clamps to the wall in increments of 1–1.5 m. If you increase this distance, the plastic line will sag.
Features of the sewerage installation scheme in the house
Features of sewerage arrangement in one and two-story houses
In a one-story cottage, sewerage installation is usually carried out with one riser in the bathroom and two horizontal outlets in the bathroom and kitchen. But if the house is large and has two or three floors, then the sewer system layout will be more complex. Here it is often necessary to install a pair of separate risers. But in general, the principles of organizing the collection of household wastewater from plumbing are the same - the slope of the pipes and the supply of wastewater to one point for exit from the building.
Sewage scheme in a one-story house
In order for the sewer system to work properly for many years, during its design and installation you should:
- connect branches to the riser not with straight crosses, but with elements with branch pipes at an angle of 30–40 degrees;
- to fix branch lines at a slope, use clamps with a pitch of no more than 1.5 meters;
- the places where vertical risers pass through the floors must be sealed with cement mortar;
- remove burrs from the ends of plastic pipes after cutting them with a hacksaw into parts of the required length;
- use siphons to form water seals;
- divert the fan outlet away from windows and balconies.
According to SNiPs, in a private house, sewer pipes can be installed in open and hidden ways (in shafts or boxes made of non-combustible materials). The first option allows you to constantly monitor the condition of pipelines and, if necessary, simplifies their repair, while the second is more aesthetically pleasing.
