Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in his arsenal. At the moment, the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats of various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will provide a detailed description of how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder if it is possible to make a high-quality swimming facility on their own, save money on this and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Home-made boats have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory "brothers":

• Product weight. When using plywood, the weight is significantly reduced in comparison with similar wooden or metal models.
• The use of solid sheets will allow you to create perfect shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
• Minimum final cost. It will be spent only on consumables such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend a week and a half on this work, provided they work in their free time or two full days.

Dimensions and Drawings

Let's consider the technical capabilities of the future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than that of many motor boats of this class.

In order for the inflated nose not to interfere with the view, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the use of oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which there are nests in the side of the boat.

The greatest length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Board height:

• The nose section is 54 centimeters.
• The back is 40 centimeters.
• The height of the stern is 45 centimeters.
• The mass of the case is twenty kilograms.
• Loading capacity is 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

The possibility of using one rowing pair is provided.

Picture No. 1:

• A) Bottom view.
• B) Top view.
• B) Transom (blanks)

Figure # 2. Outer sheathing (blank sheets):

• A) Board.
• B) Cheekbone.
• C) Bottom.

Materials for construction

Building a homemade boat will require some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools that you will need:

1. Screwdriver
2. Manual milling machine.
3. Hand sander.
4. Clamps.
5. The jigsaw is electric.

List of materials for assembly:

1. Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
2. Planed boards from 25 millimeters thick.
3. Wooden slats.
4. Brass nails.
5. Self-tapping screws for wood.
6. Epoxy resin.
7. Waterproof varnish.
8. Fiberglass.
9. Beam 50 to 3400
10. Beam 40 to 20 to 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

We make a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. You put the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost is attached with a pre-attached transom, and to the other the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and pins is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

The adjustment can be made by pulling the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is placed between all joints.

After the pins have been secured, you can start installing the frames.

The keel cut should be made at right angles on the frames. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut for the keel should be made 0.5 mm narrower than the frame.

Landing should be checked with a taut rope, which should match the beams. By setting the frames at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the keel, you can finally fix it. After all the operations done, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular bar, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and a bar of 11 centimeters is inserted between the keel and the bar.

To exclude lateral distortions, pins and transoms, as well as beams, are fastened with some kind of bar.

Frame sheathing

After that, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of plywood sheets prepared for sheathing and try on templates on these sheets for a minimum amount of waste.

The contours of natural-sized parts when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when laying down the specified dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or template.

All parts are cut with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For the subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, align the axes of the parts to be glued, with the help of a thread driven in between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, the same parts of the side should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in 50 millimeter increments for wire clips, which will be connected later.

Fastening the skin should start from the bow of the boat, fastening it with copper wire through the holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire two or three turns from the outside with a little slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat.

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily fixed at the positions shown on the unfolded drawing of the skin.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and fix it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a chance that the sides will protrude aft behind the transom, in which case the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been done, you should finally tighten all the clips with pliers and squeeze everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass, cut in the form of ribbons.

The first layer should be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, but it should be borne in mind that layers 2 and 3 should be displaced in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass is completely cured, cut off the protruding ends of the wire clips and glue the outside with fiberglass.

The bottom should be secured with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done in this way:

The prepared strips are drilled for screws in 20-25 centimeters increments. After that, the blanks are laid out in places and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked places are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back on.

After the glue dries, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes can be filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the accessories, all holes in the boat's skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inner part of the body is treated with hot linseed oil. Regular oil-based paint can be used to paint the bottom and cans of the boat.

Adhesive selection

Adhesive material for the construction of boats is used:

• Epoxy resins.
• Vinyl ester resins.
• Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above resins:

1. Epoxy resin - it can be safely called a universal resin used in the manufacture of swimming facilities, has found irreplaceable use in composite structures and ship repair. These resins provide the highest quality of the glue line in terms of indicators.
2. Vinyl ester resin is inherently a hybrid compound. Epoxy molecules provide increased strength. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents cracking during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and a rather high cost, in comparison with other types.
3. Polyester resins - can be safely called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships with the use of plastic.

   The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The disadvantages include only what is used only for gluing fiberglass.

   These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly the key to making a quality boat.

Not everyone can buy a ready-made boat, since the prices are very biting. In addition, not all designs meet the needs of different customers. If you take inflatable boats, then these are not very reliable models, since they can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not very reliable. In such cases, a decision is made to make a boat with your own hands from plywood. The construction of a small craft begins with sketches, which are then transformed into very professional drawings.

This is a fascinating process and only those fishermen who are in constant creative search can do it. Besides, building a boat is like a self-affirmation factor. But if you look at the process seriously, then there is nothing complicated.

A small craft, which is able to take 2-3 anglers on board, and is not very heavy, can be easily made of plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars, and with the help of a boat motor or sail. This does not require special, professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is durable enough to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is easy to process when using electrical or manual devices.

In addition, if a motor is installed on such a boat, then it can develop a solid speed with good running characteristics. In addition, a plywood boat is much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to find a room that is appropriate in terms of space, where the boat could freely accommodate. It is advisable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, hardly anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain an optimal temperature regime. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity should be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

• drawing accessories;
• pencils;
• rubber bands;
• patterns;
• rulers and triangles;
• flight bus;
• cardboard and drawing paper;
• paper glue;
• calculator.

At the construction stage you will need:

• jigsaw;
• hammer;
• axe;
• clamps (up to 10 pieces, not less);
• brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
• screwdriver;
• electric and manual planer;
• screwdrivers;
• chisels;
• stapler;
• circular and hand saw.

Materials for manufacturing can be:

• plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), 4-5 mm thick;
• pine or oak boards;
• fiberglass for pasting the boat hull;
• putty for filling cracks;
• waterproof glue;
• linseed oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
• oil paint or waterproof enamel;
• nails, screws, screws;
• metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

Basic boat dimensions

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then the following dimensions will be optimal:

1. The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
2. The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
3. The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What the boat consists of

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as a base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and on the back is the stern. With the help of these components longitudinal rigidity is given to the boat. Such structural details can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as knocked down by nails or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse load-bearing elements called frames. The boards, connected to the frames, stem and sternpost, form the sides of the boat.

If this frame is sheathed with plywood, then you get a boat. The inside of the boat is covered with a slate, which is the lower deck to protect the bottom of the boat.

Plywood boats for motor

Motor boats are not particularly different for their design considerations, compared to boats designed to move under oars or sail. The only difference lies in the organization of the place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Some structures of small boats are equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the floating craft, which are filled with foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of the boat sinking if it capsizes.

Boat working drawings

All work on building a boat begins with drawings, which must be drawn up professionally. If this cannot be done, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the main imaginations. But here, too, you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional units.

Typically, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the nodes of the structure.

A large sketch of a drawing can be drawn using the following algorithm:

• A line is drawn that conventionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and absolutely identical.
• The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these sections.
• Both the vertical display and the top projection are drawn.
• The shapes of the frames are drawn along the transverse marks.
• The basic dimensions of all components are checked to scale.
• The shape of the frames is drawn on a 1: 1 scale on cardboard or thick paper.
• The flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or template.

The resulting pattern is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must repeat each other flawlessly.

Transferring a drawing to a wooden blank

After the next check of the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and stiff paper will facilitate the transfer of drawings to workpieces. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it is drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying pictures, take into account the grain direction of the wood. In this case, it all depends on the design of the boat's elements. If the element is made of plywood, then the layers of plywood themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for the manufacture of fooxes, they can be made even larger, in height, since they can then be cut off.

Technological stages of manufacturing

To build a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

• transfer the drawing to the template;
• transfer pictures from templates to the tree;
• install the keel and fix the stem;
• fix the frames;
• fix the ochter post and transom board (for the motor);
• sheathe the bottom with plywood;
• sheathe the sides;
• to seal joints and stringers;
• putty and paint the boat hull.

Boat hull

The skeleton of the boat and its hull are assembled from prepared parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames are first attached to the keel first, and only after the next control are they finally fixed. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before sheathing it with plywood.

Putting together the inner contour of the foots

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable the foothboxes are. Footboxes are an integral part of the frame structure, which consists of floorboards and two footboxes.

Florimbers is the lower part of the frame that is designed to be attached to the keel. Footboxes are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. Fastening points for foothboxes and floorboards are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft, where motors will be installed, which increase the load on the structure in general and during movement in particular.

Stem material

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. Oak can be one of the most suitable materials for its manufacture, but, as a last resort, you can also use elm.

Lucky if you can find a piece of a suitable tree that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make the stem from individual elements by gluing. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools, and cut it down according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of a boat's structure and is a typical plank, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

Side boards

To do this, choose healthy, even and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Making a transom

The transom is intended for attaching the outboard motor. The transom board should be 25 mm thick. If plywood is used, it is better to glue several layers so that you end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness should not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above with a wooden block. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Boat frame fabrication

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

• keel is installed;
• pins are installed;
• the places for the installation of frames are marked;
• installation of frames;
• fastening frames, rods and transom to side boards;
• checking the correctness of installation of all elements, before their final fastening;
• it is advisable to treat the joints of structural elements with a water-resistant composition or drying oil.

Plywood boat sheathing

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the boat's hull.

Subsequently:

• the boat frame tilts upside down;
• all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely even;
• the details of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and fixed with a stapler, after which the attachment points are pierced with nails;
• the side sheathing elements are first tried on, and then fastened in the same way as when fastening the bottom;
• when gluing blanks, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be along, not across, the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a solid structure, and, on occasion, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints of the workpiece with the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, the glue is used to fill the connection zones of the plywood with the supporting elements, if they do not fit tightly.

To improve the strength and driving performance of the craft, the plywood sheathing is pasted over with fiberglass. This protection of the wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass fabric is evenly distributed over the plane of the sheathing, and wrinkles or bubbles are not desirable, which indicates a poor quality of work. The fabric is glued from the keel towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat dries well, proceed to the next stage - putty and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are perfect. The boat is painted in two stages: first, a primer coat is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

Registration of the floating craft

To register a boat of your own manufacture, the following documents should be submitted to the State Inspectorate for Small Vessels:

• passport;
• individual taxpayer number;
• agreed and signed by the inspector the Act of the primary technical examination of the floating craft with a conclusion on its suitability for operation;
• paychecks for materials that were used in the construction process;
• receipts for payment of the registration fee;

Not everyone can buy a good boat, because the prices are quite high. In addition, not all designs can suit the needs of their customers. If you disassemble inflatable boats, then this is not a very reliable means of transportation, because such a boat can be easily damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not suitable for good fishing. In this case, a decision is made to try to make a homemade boat.

Homemade plywood fishing boats have a number of advantages:

• First, plywood is a simple, dense and very warm material. It is almost impossible to destroy such a model, and it weighs little.
• Secondly, unlike rubber ones, there is enough space in the plywood model for a couple of people.
• Thirdly, being in a boat made of wood, you practically do not feel any discomfort.

The main material from which standard boats are created, considered plywood... There are no difficulties with finding it on sale.

First, it is worth remembering that any activity that is associated with the independent creation of a certain tool (be it a tractor or something else) must go specifically according to the chosen scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade models with you. Sometimes drawings can be replaced with a custom drawing.

To create the enclosure, you will need to take simple boards with a thickness of 2 cm and 6 mm plywood. The width of the material for the stern and sides should be 30 cm. These are the most suitable dimensions for the boat. All other parts that will be inside the product (seats and spacers) are made of material with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 86.4 cm.It must be remembered that the dimensions of all these parts must be fully maintained, since they all attach to the body of the model only with self-tapping screws. Creating all the parts of this structure will definitely not cause any problems.

This can be explained by their light geometric shape. In the process of work, you need to look precisely at the fit of the abutting parts and frills. All parts to be joined must be aligned and have only small gaps along their entire length. Various self-tapping screws are used in the form of fasteners. Regarding the size of such fasteners: it all depends on the place of use. They can be as follows:

• 3 by 26 and 3 by 18 mm - for sheathing the vehicle;
• 4 x 60 and 5 x 64 mm - for all other parts of the structure (for example, seats, stern and side).

The bottom of the model is made of a sheet of plywood with 6 mm thick... But due to the fact that this part of the boat will be partially exposed to the effects of the aquatic environment, for the protection of the means, the joints of the hull and the bottom still need to be treated with VIAM-B / 3 and fixed with screws.

If this substance is not available, oil paint can be taken as a substitute. Although it does not adhere well, it can give a strong and reliable coating. It is worth saying that the distance between the screws should be about 4 cm.

The outer seams should be well glued with a cloth using the "AK-20" substance. In order not to destroy the bottom of the model, a special grid is placed between the spacers.

Many people think about how to make a boat out of plywood themselves. Boats under a motor almost do not differ in their basic characteristics, in comparison with models created for movement under oars. The only difference is in the organization of the space for securing the engine. Basically, a special board is fixed at the stern, where the motor for the boat is installed.

Some parts of small ships can be equipped with other details, for example, cockpit, deck stringers and so on. To improve the strength and unsinkability, certain gaps can be installed in the models, which must be filled with polyurethane foam. This approach helps to eliminate the option of flooding the vehicle.

Painting the plywood body of the product is a rather interesting and serious moment. This is done correctly in the following sequence:

• The housing must be primed. The drying oil must be real. It is heated to the boiling stage and immediately removed from the surface of the stove. With a large brush, warm linseed oil is applied to all parts of the body along the outer and inner parts.
• After priming with linseed oil, you will need to wait for the final absorption.
• Well, at the end, the boat is painted.

An excellent combination of colors - white and red. The bottom to the waterline must be painted white. Red should go above.

For a homemade model, make an area for mounting an engine. It is cheaper and easier to use oars. The material for the paddle can be a birch board with a thickness of 35 mm. A spindle with a handle is placed at the end of the spindle. Special pads can be used to protect the edges of the blades. Then you can prime and paint the paddle. Homemade boats can be decorated in different ways.

A do-it-yourself plywood fishing boat can surpass plastic and rubber models in terms of its "survivability". Such a boat will work from fifteen to twenty years. Build a boat yourself and enjoy fishing. And, of course, before starting work, you should decide which boat you still need: collapsible or folding.

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats of various shapes and sizes in specialized stores, many are still interested in how to make a homemade boat out of plywood. The main reason for this interest lies, perhaps, in the ineradicable craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let it be possible to buy anything today, but in a home-made dinghy or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the magazine "Rybolov", there is some indescribable charm.

In the article, we will give a few tips, using which, you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade mini boats made of plywood were very popular. This made it possible to work out the methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but we don't need anything complicated to make a small craft with our own hands:

• Plywood is the most important component... For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Individual parts such as frames or keels are cut from thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
To provide the sides with sufficient reliability, only high-quality plywood should be used for sheathing, without cracks, delamination, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of the material of the first or second grade will be higher, but on the other hand, you will be confident in the safety of your boat.

• Wood is used for the installation of internal struts, decoration of boards, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged, planed board made of light wood species.
• The suture material is used to connect the individual sheathing parts into a single whole... The seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
• Glue is needed to ensure proper tightness of the seams.... To date, the masters have practically abandoned natural formulations based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up on fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, you can use fiberglass - then it will be pasted over the entire bottom and sides.

Well, don't forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

• Saw on wood.
• Jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
• Sander.
• Hand tools (hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
• Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
• Brushes for impregnation, varnishing, etc.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we decide what kind of vessel we need. Today on the net you can find a variety of drawings of homemade plywood boats, so there is nothing impossible in the construction of a punt for fishing or in the assembly of a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat may turn out to be extremely decorative.

• After examining the available projects of homemade plywood boats, or making your own, we transfer the outlines of the main parts to paper.
• Using paper templates, draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheathing sheets will be cut.
• If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then they must be spliced. To do this, we cut the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

• Attaching the beveled parts to each other, coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the "mustache" connection.
• At the same time, we are preparing wooden beams from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from beams with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the parts on these trestles during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Assembling the case

When everything is ready, we start work:

• Using a wood saw or jigsaw,. The offset from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not converge when stitching.
• We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. The glued parts will be a bit heavy, but that's okay!
• If you plan to install a boat motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the screws should be such that the tip does not pierce the part through and through.

• We install the transom on the previously made trestles and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together at the bow.
• We fasten the sheathing parts either with a suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting the edge of the plywood at an angle.

• At this stage, it is very important that all the elements converge in size, since in order to reduce the gap, you will have to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly", you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

• Prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). The components are mixed in 1: 1 promotion using a drill attachment. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
• The corners between the bottom, sides and transom are reinforced with wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
• We glue the strips of fiberglass and fiberglass on all the seams from the inside, carefully coating the joints with an epoxy-aerosil compound.

Note!
Since most adhesives contain volatile toxins, all paintwork must be carried out with respiratory protection!

• After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
• We use the same glue to fix the frames. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping fiberglass strips.

• We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other details provided for by the design.
• If it is planned to equip the boat with a cockpit (closed space in the bow), we install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting for the whole structure to dry out, remove the boat from the trestle, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloration

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive spring appearance:

• First, we thoroughly degrease all the parts.
• Then we process the wood with impregnation. The Tikkurila composition for sea or river vessels is quite suitable here.
• We putty all the planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
• You can paint homemade plywood boats with almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the durability of the vessel, it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for treating wooden boats.

• Average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m 2. It is best applied with a brush, but a spray gun is also allowed.

Output

A homemade plywood boat made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going to the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for large rivers and lakes of our country such a design is quite reliable. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

When making a boat out of plywood, you will face two main problems. First, you need to properly measure and fabricate the parts. Secondly, it is important to properly assemble the boat frame. Later in the article, I will describe in detail how to calculate the dimensions for all component parts, and during the construction of the frame I will focus on especially important points.

Dimensions and Drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, the two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the base of the frame.

L = 3000- (h * tg (a-90) + h * tg (b-90)) = 2623 where h is the height of the boat

Now we will find the length of the nose and transom. Since they are tilted, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

L transom = √ (〖(h * tan (a-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) = 508

L nose = √ (〖(h * tg (b-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) = 577

It is necessary to determine the width of the bottom. Let's take half of the boat's width - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width in 1/3 of the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend would be at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the board will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (top and bottom, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other sizes depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be a beam of 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. To it, on one side, we screw the transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance we fasten the deformed beams to the nose (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50 * 25 mm. Insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The bottom of the frame is ready.

We fasten the nose and transom. Between the nose and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now at the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm high and 350 mm wide. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

We make a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the upper to the edge of the lower beam. It is important!
For this, we use a bar of 25 * 25 mm.

Frame sheathing

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First, we fix the sides. The plywood should fit snugly against the frame.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat.

We glue all plywood joints with waterproof glue. Apply glue to any areas of the boat that you think are vulnerable.

Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We trim the boat from the inside (optional). You can make the floor and not sheathe the boards, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Do not board the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.

All the remaining parts are also to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.

DOCOO - Special for