The most important thing in creating a suspended ceiling is to correctly calculate and assemble the frame. You should draw a drawing diagram of the frame on paper or on the wall, and you need to draw the frame separately and the drywall layout separately. If you consider the arrangement of the sheets - lengthwise or crosswise, this will help save materials. On the drawing you can also indicate the installation locations of the hangers so that they do not fall on the junction of the main and load-bearing profiles.
First, we make markings using a level or a chop cord.
We fix it on the walls with a 28/27 guide profile around the perimeter. The profile is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. Glue it to the base of the profile sealing tape. It, being an element of sound insulation, dampens vibrations and, to some extent, protects plasterboard sheathing from cracks. We fix the profile in increments of 50 centimeters, i.e. for one profile 3 meters long you need 6 dowels. Remember - drywall is not screwed to the guide profile!
The main profiles will come from the window. Let's place the profiles and connectors on the same level.
We fix the hangers starting from the corner and the window. The first line of hangers is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from the window, then 40 cm and then a step of 50 cm. The longitudinal step of the profile will be 120 cm, the width of the gypsum board sheet.
Length standard profile almost always less than the length of the ceiling, so we use special extensions for the profile.
We fix the connector, or simply “crab,” at a distance of 120 cm from the wall.
We install the load-bearing ceiling profile 60/27 in increments of 50 cm, but closest to the wall load-bearing profile we will fix it with an indentation of 10 cm, the next one at a distance of 40 cm, and all the rest - 50 cm. The edge of the supporting profile, which is inserted into the guide profile, is NOT fixed.
At this stage it is very important to attach a diagram of the lamps and make sure that the lamps do not fall on the frame. After all suspended ceiling rarely without lamps.
The main mistakes when constructing a suspended ceiling:
- they are using the wrong profiles
- use gypsum board with a thickness of 9.5 mm.
- the frame is assembled according to the principle - the narrower, the stronger, i.e. take a step between the main profile over the entire surface of 30 - 40 cm.
- the supporting profile and the gypsum board sheet are secured with screws to the guide profile (PN)
- the seams are sealed incorrectly: they use the wrong putty, bad reinforcing tape and do not make a covering layer.
If you plan to hang heavy chandeliers, then the pitch of the supporting profile should be 40 centimeters, in other cases 50 cm.
In the places where the profiles adjoin the walls, we put marks with a pencil, this will make it easier to navigate where the load-bearing profile goes; when fixing the gypsum board there is a risk of missing. And under the guide profile we glue a separating tape, after puttying the junction of the ceiling to the wall, it ensures the sliding of the gypsum board sheet when the structure moves from the settlement of the building.
Let's start covering the ceiling, using KNAUF sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. You cannot use drywall of a different thickness (exceptions are side curved surfaces). To secure the sheets, we use a special lift, which greatly facilitates the work of constructing the ceiling; you can work alone.
Screws must be screwed sequentially from the middle to the edges of the sheet, or from the corner to the sides every 15 cm. You cannot fasten the sheet around the perimeter for the purpose of pre-fixing it.
The edge of the sheet is NOT secured to the guide profile screwed to the wall.
When cutting a sheet of drywall, a chamfer of 22.5 degrees should be made along the edge of the edge.
When the renovation of a room comes to an end, reasonable questions arise: What is the best way to make an angle between the wall and the ceiling? How can I hide defects or technical seams between the wall and the ceiling? How to select a color? Let's talk about everything in order.
The connection between walls and ceiling is important
First of all, first of all... the partitions, and then the ceiling!
For the first time, the builder is faced with the issue of interfacing the ceiling at the stage of erecting partitions. The top joint causes stress for many.
In case of block wall Usually, the top edge of the block or brick is first coated with glue, and then it is “pressed” between the wall and the ceiling. As a result, the glue or solution partially remains on the block and is partially squeezed out. A gap will form that needs to be filled with putty. And even if the putty was successful, a gap may still appear. The best, in my opinion, is to use polyurethane foam. You can use it when the partition has gained the necessary strength.
Using polyurethane foam to seal cracks
First, insert a gun with a balloon of foam into the top seam and carefully go through the outer and outer sides partitions. After the foam has dried, remove the excess with a regular construction knife. Ready! The result is a high-tech, durable connection unit. This pairing perfectly compensates for the movement of the ceiling and walls and provides excellent sound insulation to the room.
In case of plasterboard partitions They are trying to seal the gap with putty. When installing drywall sheets, try to first leave a gap of no more than 5 millimeters at the top. And then seal the seam with acrylic sealant. The sealant, like foam, compensates for minor deformations.
Perfect angle or a bummer?
Don't be alarmed, everything is fine! It's called a bummer in architecture decorative element different in cross-section.
Many people have heard these terms:
- Cornice;
- Ceiling plinth;
- Baguette;
- Border.
Ceiling plinth
However, professional builders, this element is usually called a fillet (it is also a plank covering the joint between the wall and the ceiling).
There are many materials from which this decorative element is made. It could be a classic plaster stucco(there are workshops that still make it by hand), and wood, and modern plastic fillets, and even luxurious marble.
When choosing, it is important to remember that the width of the cornice affects people’s perception of the room. A wide element will visually reduce the height of the ceiling and the volume of the room. While narrow, on the contrary, increases the height of the ceiling and the volume of the room. And the choice of color should be done carefully - a color that is too contrasting will “rip” the cornice out of the interior.
Depending on the material, installation methods also differ. If plastic parts are glued, then wood, gypsum stucco and other more heavy materials fastens with nails or screws.
Ceiling fillet
We attach modern “stucco”
Let's focus on fastening polyurethane fillets, since this is the most affordable and widespread material today.
First, let's calculate the materials and prepare the tool.
We count the length of all the walls of the room and divide by the length of one plank. The number obtained as a result of the calculation is rounded up to the nearest whole number. It is recommended to buy fillets with a small margin. Liquid nails glue or acrylic sealant are ideal for fastening. By the way, acrylic sealant will also be needed to fill the seams between the baseboard, wall and ceiling.
Acrylic sealant
Required tool:
- Circular saw for cutting corners. Although, an ordinary hacksaw for metal is quite suitable.
- A template, also known as a miter box, for sawing an angle of 30.45 degrees.
- Construction knife.
Seal ceiling cracks
It is most convenient to start installing the planks with internal corners, moving along straight sections. Next, install the plinth in the miter box. Press the smooth surface against the side wall and file at an angle of 45 degrees for right angles. If the angle of the walls is different, the cutting angle is determined experimentally. Attention! For one corner or slope, the planks should be mirror-cut. After the stucco is ready, we begin gluing. To do this, apply glue to side surfaces fillets and gently press from the corner along the entire length. We continue to glue the planks end to end.
We continue to glue the planks end-to-end
Important! If you can’t get a perfect fit, you can use thin steel wire as connecting pins.
After all the planks are glued, we seal the seams between the ceiling, baseboard and wall thin layer acrylic sealant. Remove excess with a napkin or universal tool"i.e. finger. Stucco molding has transformed your ceiling!
Stucco molding has transformed your ceiling
If you still find it difficult to decide on the choice of stucco, calculate its quantity or choose the color of the ceiling and walls, do not worry. Many manufacturers' websites have free online services for selecting materials, calculating their quantities, and selecting the color of the ceiling and walls. It all works very simply. You come into online service. Indicate the dimensions of your room, select colors if necessary, and determine the number of decorative elements.
Feel free to create, experiment with colors and materials, and your home will be filled with beauty and comfort!
At the request of forum members, I will try to describe the sequence of work with gypsum boards.
Let me point out right away that this practice work with gypsum boards, is widely used on the North American continent and is practical instructions to follow when working with plasterboard or fiber board. So:When choosing the thickness of the gypsum board, it is necessary to determine the center-to-center distance of the racks or ceiling joists on which the gypsum board is planned to be mounted. You must always remember that a 12-13 mm sheet can be mounted on racks or logs, with their distance not exceeding 40 cm. With an inter-rack distance of more than 40 cm, required thickness GKL increases to 16 mm. If the GKL is planned to be mounted on a flat surface (for example, OSB, plywood or a wall covered with a flat board, then it is quite possible to use a 9 mm GKL sheet.
In America, gypsum boards are almost always laid directly on racks or joists, without any sheathing. Standard thickness American building wood 38 mm. Two sheets of gypsum board fit perfectly and without problems on this board size. If routes installed every 60 cm are used on the ceiling (the norm for routes), then the ceilings are covered with lathing from 19x89mm boards, every 40 cm on the centers.
IN Russian realities, often, wood that is not completely dry is used for the frame and, moreover, with a “playing” size of the board. GCR cannot be directly mounted on such racks, due to future drying and torsion of the wood, which can lead to cracks in the puttied gypsum board.
For this purpose, the sheathing is made from a dry board (not necessarily edged. The main thing is that its thickness does not “walk” by more than 3 mm) or from a metal profile. The lathing is stuffed perpendicular to the racks or ceiling joists. With a distance of 40cm. It is best to attach the sheathing to self-tapping screws (not black ones!) or to rough nails.
GKL sheets can be mounted on walls both vertically and horizontally.
With the vertical method of installing gypsum boards on the wall, the total length of all joints is much longer than with horizontal installation. But due to the fact that the side edges of the gypsum board have factory-made recesses, it is easier to putty them and it is easier to get the joints into perfect shape. flat surface. This is especially important if you plan to simply paint the gypsum board and not cover it with wallpaper. Horizontal installation of gypsum boards is quite suitable for wallpaper, which requires much less time and material to achieve the required quality of the finishing surface.For gypsum plasterboard there are special black self-tapping screws that are screwed in at a distance of 10-12mm from the edge of the sheet along the perimeter. Along the length of the sheet, self-tapping screws alternate every 35-40 cm. Along the width of the sheet, every 30 cm, self-tapping screws are used 32-40 mm long. Along the perimeter of the openings, as well as at the joints of adjacent sheets, the screws are turned somewhat more often - about 15 cm.
It is very important when tightening the screw, not to break it paper covering GKL. The head of the screw should be recessed into the surface of the sheet no deeper than 1-1.5 mm.
When laying gypsum boards near window and doorways, it is important to remember that the sheet must extend beyond the corners of the opening, at least 100mm. That is, the sheet cannot end at the side post of the opening or its lintel, but must extend beyond them. Failure to comply with this simple rule, almost always guarantees cracks in the corners of openings.
Laying gypsum boards should always start from the ceiling, and only then on the walls. There are several reasons why this practice is widespread.
First reason:
Usually the walls of the frame are not perfectly smooth and top harness the walls may “walk” a little. (As I already said, especially with damp construction wood). And perfectly fitting the cut gypsum board sheets to the walls is not an easy task. Therefore, the ceiling sheets that border the walls can be cut with some gaps, which will still be covered with gypsum plasterboard wall sheets from below. This method allows you to work faster with ceiling sheets, since there is no need for precise marking and careful adjustment of the sheets.
The second reason:
Ceiling sheets receive additional support from the wall sheets. What does it record? top corners and prevents possible cracks in the future.Now about the walls.
If the gypsum board is planned to be mounted horizontally, then the first sheet is always installed flush against the ceiling and always with the flat, factory, uncut side. And the bottom row of sheets is cut to size for the floor. There must be a minimum gap between the floor surface and the gypsum board
5-10mm. This is especially true for wet rooms. This is necessary to prevent contact between the plasterboard and possibly wet floors. The resulting gap between the floor and the gypsum board is filled with any suitable caulking or sealant, which in turn completely seals the wall from the possible penetration of fibers of the internal cotton insulation into the room.
Non-factory gypsum board joints are slightly cut at an angle of 45% to a depth of 3-5mm. This is done in order to cut the paper from the sheet and prevent it from rising up when wet during puttying.Puttying.
Usually, a new gypsum board is not primed with anything and is puttied “live”. The exception is very dirty and dusty sheets, which are best primed, otherwise the putty simply will not stick well to the sheets. I’ll say right away that this has never happened in my practice. And I have never primed a new gypsum board with putty. Moreover, there are no recommendations from manufacturers for priming new gypsum boards. (At least on the North American continent).
Now about the types of putty mixtures.
Now there are many putties of various brands on the market. There are dry putties and ready-made putties, and diluted putties in buckets or boxes. Having no idea about the mixtures that exist on the Russian market, I will talk here about American putty mixtures.
There are three types of putties, differing in the amount of adhesive per volume of mixture. We mark these mixtures with colors.
Red is the most a large number of glue in the mixture. Used for the first layer of putty, for sealing large cracks, as well as for gluing corners and joints with paper or mesh. This putty has increased hardness and strength. Relatively difficult to sand.
Green - the percentage of glue in it is less. This putty is used for the second layer, smoothing out irregularities and filling cavities at factory joints of gypsum boards. Much easier to sand.
Blue is the “lightest” putty. It has a very small percentage of adhesive substance, is diluted more liquidly and is used for the third, thin, finishing layer of putty. Very easy to sand and process.All friends. That's all for today. Our eyes are sticking together... We'll continue tomorrow.
Today we will learn how to putty drywall with our own hands. This is one of the most important apartment renovation operations, providing us with a perfectly smooth wall.
CONTENT:
How to putty drywall under wallpaper with your own hands. What's the point
If you know how to putty drywall under wallpaper, then in the end you can get a perfect smooth walls- the basis for any subsequent decoration.
The sheet of drywall itself already represents an ideal smooth surface. But on a wall many meters in width and height, we are dealing with the joints of many sheets between each other and the screws that were used to attach the gypsum board to the frame.
Therefore, the essence of putty is to make ideal places joints and fastening screws.
Preparation of seams
First you need to prepare the gypsum board joints. To do this, you need to trim all horizontal seams and connections to the walls, that is, as if chamfering.
Important: thinned factory part plasterboard sheets does not need to be trimmed - this side is already ready for priming and subsequent puttying:
So, to trim, take a painting knife, place it at an angle of 45 degrees and start cutting:
It's okay if the excess is removed:
We do similar work with the adjacent sheet:
Similarly, we cut through all adjacent sheets (with non-thinned edges)
Primer of seams
To prime the seams you need to take a primer deep penetration. IN hardware store you can select the appropriate material.
All joints, all junctions of walls and ceilings around the perimeter are primed. There is no need to prime the entire gypsum wall at this stage yet. If there are any dent damage on the wall, these defects should also be primed:
Sealing seams with reinforced tape
First of all, you need to lay reinforced tape on the seams. WITH reverse side The tape is sticky, so it will easily stick to the surface. We glue the tape to the factory thinned seams and to the junctions with the walls and ceiling along the perimeter, except for the floor.
Sticks reinforced tape or a serpyanka in the middle on two sheets, going over both one sheet and the other, so that the line of junction of the sheets is in the middle of the tape:
The tape is applied to the corners in the same way. We cover the whole wall with serpyanka:
Important: there is no need to apply tape to cut seams.
How to putty drywall seams
We work at an acute angle. There is no need to put too much pressure on the serpyanka. First we seal one part of the wall, then the second.
It will not be possible to putty smoothly right away; the seams are puttied at least twice. If you suddenly find that a self-tapping screw is sticking out, then take a screwdriver and tighten it.
The next day, when the putty has dried, we begin to putty a second time. But before that, you need to quickly walk along the wall with a spatula and clean off the build-up and “snot”; they will always be there.
In addition, if for certain reasons a week or more has passed since the first time of puttying, then it is better to prime the puttyed areas again (since the dust will have time to settle). And only then go through it a second time.
When the putty dries, you need to go over it with sandpaper (zero):
After this, our plasterboard wall is ready for finishing. the right material: painting, wallpapering, etc. Before finishing works the wall needs to be primed. When the primer has dried, you can begin finishing.
Below is a video on selecting putty for drywall:
Today we learned how to putty drywall under wallpaper with our own hands
The way you seal in the present will definitely become the reason for what will happen to your walls in the future, but the reason for which will be the last reason - this question will torment your conscience if you do not seal the drywall joints in the present. That’s how I wrapped it up, I even got puzzled and went to check if all the drywall joints were sealed correctly.
After construction plasterboard walls or partitions they need to be puttied. The only exceptions are plasterboard surfaces intended for tiling.
But before applying the first layer of putty, it is necessary to seal with putty drywall joints to each other, and prepare the surface for puttying. It is also necessary to fill the holes from the screw heads.
If you are lazy and do not treat it, there is a high probability of the putty cracking at the seams. The screws are puttyed so that the putty has nowhere to “sag”. As it sinks following the screws, it will leave “dimples.” In addition, by filling them in advance, you will ensure that the putty adheres more tightly to the surface, where the recessed heads of the screws are visible.
Joints between sheets of drywall are sealed as follows. All drywall must be primed. After the primer has dried (this will take 30-60 minutes, depending on humidity), a special self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) must be glued to the seams.
In places where the factory, uncut edge meets, this is done very simply. But if the sheets are adjacent with a cut edge and very tightly, then the seam itself requires additional processing. Let's take it construction knife, and lightly trim the seam on each side at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. It turns out something like a groove, which we will “fill in” with putty.
What if I leave the joints as they are?
If this is not done, then even a mesh glued over the seam will not prevent cracking in this place. The thing is that the crack itself already exists (the joint), but it is so dense that the putty will not get into it. You will paste the mesh, putty on top, but the junction itself will remain empty, and with the slightest temperature changes, vibrations and micro-movements of the plasterboard boards, the seam will separate and transfer the crack to the layer of putty applied on top.
Of course, it is necessary to cut such grooves before priming the walls. Don't be afraid to cut joints this way. Completely straight edges are not needed at all. If they are slightly torn, uneven and uneven in width and depth, then the putty will adhere better.
