Any homeowner (bathhouses, garages and other buildings are also considered) really wants his building to require repairs as little as possible. And the first concern is the safety of the foundation. To do this, it is important not only to plan and build correctly, but also to drain water - groundwater and precipitation. Responsible for groundwater drainage drainage system, and sediment is removed using a blind area. This equipment does not have the most complicated design: a blind area of ​​any type is easy to make with your own hands. There is not a lot of work and costs, but it solves several problems.

Functions and tasks

We have long been accustomed to the fact that there should be a path around the house: it gives the entire layout a finished look. Especially if combined with finishing materials, which decorate the building. In addition, it is practical: you can walk along the path. And the fact that the path is a blind area, and its main purpose is to drain water, is a successful combination of the properties and qualities of materials and a well-thought-out design.

The main function of the foundation blind area is to remove sediment from it

If you look at it from a utilitarian point of view, the blind area drains rain and melt water from the foundation. The second very important practical task that can be solved with its help is to insulate the foundation. If you put insulation under the walkway, it will protect the house from freezing, which will greatly reduce heating costs.

When should a blind area be done? Immediately after finishing the external walls, but before finishing the basement. Why is that? Because a compensation gap must be left between the finishing of the blind area and the wall of the house. This is an excellent path for water that flows down the wall of the house (falls on the walls during slanting rain, for example). But it is impossible not to make this gap - the foundation will collapse. It is also unrealistic to seal the gap hermetically. The solution is to make sure that water does not get into the gap in any case. This can only be achieved if the base trim hangs over the seam. Then the water will flow a few centimeters further from the seam, and then fall into the drainage grooves. This can only be done if you first organize the blind area and then finish the base.

Why do you need a foundation blind area, when to do it, we figured it out, now it remains to understand how to do it correctly.

Blind area dimensions

It is necessary to remove sediment from the foundation along the entire perimeter. That’s why a protective belt is made around the house. The width of the blind area is determined depending on the type of soil on the site and the length of the eaves overhang. In general, it should be 20 cm wider than the roof overhang. But SNiP sets minimum standards: on normal soils the width of the blind area is at least 60 cm, on subsidence soils - at least 100 cm.

The width of the blind area of ​​the house is at least 60 cm on normal soils and at least 100 cm on subsiding soils

Also in the manual for SNiP 2.02.01-83 there is paragraph 3.182. There are the following instructions:

Blind areas around the perimeter of buildings must be prepared from local compacted soil with a thickness of at least 0.15 m. Blind areas should be arranged with a slope in the transverse direction of at least 0.03. The edge mark of the blind area must exceed the planning mark by at least 0.05 m. Water falling on the blind area must flow freely into the storm drainage network or trays.

From this passage it is clear that the depth depends on the technology chosen, but cannot be less than 15 cm.

Device technology

Any blind area consists of an underlying layer and a protective coating.

Backfill: what materials to use

The purpose of the underlying layer is to create a level base for laying the protective coating. Its thickness is about 20 cm. Sand and crushed stone are often used for these purposes, but native soil or clay can also be used.

Sand and crushed stone are used on well-draining soils. In this case, sand is first laid, spilled and compacted. Then there is a layer of crushed stone, which is also compacted.

If the soil on the site is clay or loam, then it is better to use native soil. If, with such soils, crushed stone or sand is laid around the foundation, then water will certainly be present near the house. Because it turns out that the density of the soil outside the underlying layer will be higher. This will cause water to accumulate under the blind area. If, with this design, a drainage pipe is laid around the perimeter of the bedding, the problem will be solved. And it’s effective. But there will be more work, and the cost of the blind area with drainage will be higher.

Types of protective coating

The covering for the blind area must meet many requirements:

• should not allow water to pass through;
• must be frost-resistant;
• have increased abrasion resistance;
• should not be destroyed by water.

This could be paving slabs or paving stones. The shape and color can be very different - choose based on general design territory, houses of nearby buildings. The thickness of these materials is at least 6 cm; only in this case will they withstand harsh operating conditions.

You can use slabs or tiles made from natural or artificial stone, you can lay out the paths with large pebbles or pour crushed stones on top of all layers.

There is another type that is becoming increasingly popular - this is a soft blind area. It has few layers but works effectively. There may not be any hard or waterproofing layer on top: you can pour soil and plant grass or flowers. Interesting solution for a summer house or country cottage.

All these options are not bad, but the cost of their arrangement is quite high. If there is a need or desire to do it cheaply and cheerfully, your choice is a concrete blind area. There will be a lot of work, but the total cost is low.

General principles

Depending on the soil on the site and the purpose of the building, they can be used different materials and structure of layers, but there are some points that are always present:

How to make a blind area at home with your own hands

First, markings are made along the perimeter of the building using pegs and laces. The following is the order of work:

• Removed vegetation layer and some soil. The depth of the trench depends on the size of the underlying layer and the thickness of the protective coating. Usually - 25-30 cm.
• The bottom is treated with herbicides. This is necessary to prevent plants from growing in this area. They are able to destroy even concrete and asphalt, and they grow instantly between tiles or paving stones.
• The bottom of the trench is leveled, forming the required slope and compacted.
• The underlying layer is laid and compacted, maintaining the slope. It is advisable to compact everything using a vibrating platform. Manual tamping is ineffective. Density is especially important when laying concrete, but it is advisable to compact it well under tiles or paving stones: it will not collapse or warp.
• Stacked protective covering.
• A drainage groove is formed.

It's very short and sketchy. Each coating has its own characteristics, and each needs to be discussed separately.

Concrete blind area around the house

The most widespread covering is concrete. It turns out to be the most inexpensive. Traditionally, the underlying layer consists of poured compacted sand (10 cm) sand, on top of which compacted crushed stone (10 cm) is laid. As already mentioned above, this scheme works normally on well-draining soils.

If there is clay or loam around the house, make the underlying layer from native soil. To reduce the effect of heaving and avoid cracking, pour 10 cm of sand on top of the compacted soil, and then lay concrete on it. This way the concrete will crack less, but you will not get rid of cracking completely: especially in regions with harsh winters. In such conditions, it is better to make a blind area from crushed stone or pebbles - there will be no problems with cracking. If funds allow, they make it from tiles. For harsh winters, with correctly selected layers of substrate, they stand well.

In general, on heaving soils it is advisable to make drainage that will drain the water flowing from the tape. This will be an effective and reliable solution. All the rest are just half measures. Drain pipe positioned so that water from the coating gets into it.

Rules for concreting a blind area

Formwork is installed and secured along the perimeter of the marked area. Most often, the board is of sufficient height, secured with pegs and spacers.

To reduce surface cracking, reinforcement is often used. To do this, a mesh of steel wire with a cell size of 10-25 cm is laid out on the finished underlying layer.

Wooden planks treated with antiseptics are laid on top of the mesh (if there is one). The thickness of the planks is 2.5 cm, and they can be treated with hot drying oil. These strips are damper joints that will prevent the concrete from cracking when temperatures change.

The planks are set while maintaining the slope from the house. The rule is then “pulled” along them, leveling the solution.

To make the surface strong and smooth, ironing is carried out. Almost immediately after pouring, while cement laitance is still on the surface, the concrete is sprinkled with cement (can be crushed several times) and rubbed with a trowel or plaster float. A thin but strong, smooth and slightly shiny surface is formed on top. It is very resistant to abrasion.

The last stage is concrete care. The path is covered with a damp cloth. During the week, it is regularly moistened (sprayed from a hose or watering can). The fabric should remain damp. To avoid hassle with watering, you can cover it with film, but it is more difficult to keep it in one place.

Concrete for blind area

For the blind area, standard sand and gravel concrete is used. Darkness is preferably at least M150. It can be higher: the higher the grade, the more durable the protective coating will be. The proportions for preparing the solution for the blind area can be selected from the table. They are given for concrete grade M400 - not very expensive, the characteristics are normal.

Insulated blind area

It only makes sense to install an insulated blind area in a heated house. In buildings seasonal residence, in which above-zero temperatures are not maintained in winter, this makes no sense. The meaning of adding a double layer of insulation:

If the insulated blind area of ​​the house is laid at the design stage, then one more reason is added: if this detail is present, reduction factors are applied in the calculation. That is, the foundation has a lower height, and therefore less cost.

An option for installing an insulated concrete blind area with a drainage system is demonstrated in the video. Everything is described normally, they just didn’t specify what to do if the layer of loose soil is more than 40 cm, which is required for the blind area. In this case, it must be filled with soil having a density higher than that located on the site. If there is clay on the site, then only that can be used. If it is loam, you can take either clay or loam.

One point: lay the clay not in a dry state, but diluted to a paste. The technology is old, but nothing better has been invented yet. It is laid out in layers, trying to avoid the formation of air pockets - water will certainly stagnate in them (or someone will settle).

Blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles

This is one of the types soft blind area. It's easy to do it yourself. This system is used if there is a drainage system or the soil drains water well, and there is no clay or loam under the plant layer.

The order of work is as follows. A layer is laid in a dug trench on a leveled and compacted bottom. This material is not thick, but very elastic. It will prevent crushed stone or pebbles from being pressed into the ground. And the path will not sag. Crushed stone is poured on top and compacted. Layer thickness 10-15 cm, fraction 10-80 mm. All.

If desired, the gravel blind area can also be insulated. Then 50 mm thick EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is laid in the trench on compacted and leveled soil, and a geomembrane is laid on top high density, and you can already use pebbles or crushed stone on it. But it is not advisable to walk along such a path.

Do-it-yourself blind area made of tiles or paving stones

There are several device options, but the most optimal and versatile are “pies” using geotextiles.

For example, one of them is shown in the figure. It can be used to construct a blind area on heaving soils with harsh winters. Note:

It is advisable to use geomembranes as waterproofing. They are made from high density polyethylene. By brand: you can take Tefond, Isostud, Fundalin, TechnoNIKOL Planter Standart, etc. They cost around 150-250 rubles/m2.

Geotextiles available different brands and different densities, with different functional purpose. Choose based on the geology of the site. Their price is from 15 to 50 rubles/m2.

When constructing a blind area with your own hands, the main thing is to make sure that the water leaves the foundation and does not collect in the sand or crushed stone layer near the house. What will definitely happen if the soil is heaving (clay or loam), the underlying layer is made of sand and crushed stone, and there is no drainage.

The blind area plays an important role in guaranteeing comfortable and long-term use of a private home. It can protect the foundation structure and the soil around the house from moisture. When snow melts or during precipitation, the accumulation of water near a private house can lead to erosion of the top layer of soil.

In order for the blind area to reliably protect the foundation of the house, its minimum width should be 0.8 meters.

Some builders are of the opinion that in the process of arranging a drainage system, you can do without. It should be noted that they are deeply mistaken. Drainage system will protect the soil from water near the foundation that flows from the roof. However, it will not be able to protect against precipitation.

The quality is quite important when using a shallow base, in which the base is located quite close to the surface, and water can easily reach its depth. When the sole gets wet, it will lose its strength and begin to sag unevenly, destroying and deforming the base. It is important that in the case of making buried foundations, it is also necessary to make a blind area. It should always be made, regardless of the type of soil, foundation design and other conditions.

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How to properly make a blind area around a private house?

In order to make a blind area around a private house that will serve for a long period of time, reliably protecting the foundation, it is necessary to select all the materials correctly and adhere to construction technology.

First of all, you should choose the width of such a structure. This structure must protect the base, so it must be made as wide as possible - the further away from the building moisture is absorbed into the soil, the less likely it is to damage the structures present on the site. There are standards according to which the minimum width of this protective structure is 0.8 m. The maximum value is not standardized and will depend on the wishes of the owner of the site.

In addition to the fact that such a design performs protective function, it can also serve as a path around the house. This should be taken into account when choosing the width, so that in the future you do not need to walk sideways along it or press against the wall. Based on this, we can conclude that the acceptable width of the blind area, which meets all existing requirements, will be in the range of 1.5-2 m.

Second important parameter blind area - a slope that will ensure water flows away from the walls of a private house. Previously, the slope was 60-100 mm per 100 mm width. For example, the edge of a blind area, whose width is 1 m, should have a height of 60-100 mm next to the wall of the house, and the other edge of the structure should be flush with the ground. By enough steep descent the water will be able to drain very quickly.

It is worth noting that moving around such a structure will be quite difficult. If you make the slope smaller, water will be able to flow slower or linger on the surface, and you will be able to walk with greater comfort. A compromise between efficiency and convenience can be considered a slope of 20 mm per 1 m of width. When moving, it will not be noticeable, and the water will be able to completely flow down without lingering on the surface.

In order to remove water, a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width is sufficient if the surface of the structure is smooth and level. This surface is not very comfortable to walk on. winter period because it is quite slippery. If during the construction process you use a material that has a rough surface, for example, FEM, the slope should be at least 20 mm per 1 m.

If the blind area is planned to be built not around a private house, but around a garage, at the entrance its slope should be made large (approximately 30 mm per 1 m). This will make it possible to protect the surface as much as possible from water, which can quickly drain without soaking or freezing in winter. Consequently, the entrance to the garage will always be protected from ice and puddles.

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Necessary materials for the manufacture of this design

There are several ways to make a blind area. In each case we use various materials. The most common structure is reinforced concrete.

First of all, you need to clean the area for the blind area. After this, the reinforcing bars (Ø6 mm) must be laid in the form of a mesh, which has cell dimensions of 30x30 cm. They can be connected to each other using knitting wire.

Before making a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the base for it. Along the perimeter of a private house along the width of the blind area, the top soil layer should be removed (to a depth of 13 cm). Near the walls of the basement, the depth should be made a little greater so that the poured concrete can flow towards the private house, slightly squeezing it. There is no need to additionally attach the structure to the house.

Next you need to mark the boundaries future design, hammer in the pegs and pull the cord across them. At the bottom of the trench you need to pour sand layer 5 cm thick. This sand cushion will be the basis for concrete. If the existing soil on the site is sandy, there is no need to add a layer of sand. It is necessary to mount the formwork on the cushion, lay the reinforcing mesh and pour the concrete. It is important to ensure that the reinforcement is located in the concrete base. To do this you will need to lift it slightly.

Some builders use ash as a material, that is, a product of coal combustion at thermal power plants. It must be handled with care, as it can be radioactive, and this can affect the health of people living in a private home.

When the poured concrete solution has completely hardened, you will need to lay a coating on it. For coating, you can use FEM or granite paving stones. By appearance FEMs vary in quality and quality. Acid-resistant bricks are of the highest quality. They withstand the stress of climatic conditions and walking. Ordinary FEMs do not have strength, therefore their service life in most cases is short - after 5 years there will be no trace left of them original form. The optimal service period should be at least 10 years.

Paving stones can be a good choice for covering the structure being manufactured.

Not only is it durable and strong, but it is also produced different colors, which makes it possible to use it in the form of a mosaic, laying out a variety of patterns. It is worth knowing that it also has some drawback - high cost.

Required items:

1. Fittings.
2. Wooden boards.
3. Knitting wire.
4. Cement not lower than M400 grade.
5. Crushed stone.
6. Sand.
7. Water.
8. FEM or paving stones.
9. Ruberoid.

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Existing features of making a blind area around a private house

When building a blind area, there may be some nuances that you definitely need to pay attention to:

You should not start building the blind area immediately after making the base. When backfilling, soil is placed in the trench that was previously removed from it (clay, black soil, etc.). All soils will subside to some extent, so you need to wait a while for them to subside completely.

If you do not wait for subsidence right away, then when moisture gets on the soil, it can sag, deforming it, which can lead to cracks on the surface. To avoid this phenomenon, you can backfill make it with sand that allows water to pass through well. If it is leveled and watered, the construction of the blind area can begin within a day.

It is worth noting that it is recommended to start manufacturing the structure after building the box of a private house or after 6-8 months. after the base has been completed.

It is not recommended to use porcelain stoneware tiles as a covering for the structure. Its smooth surface is quite slippery, and this can cause human injuries. In addition, it will not last long. The tiles will need to be laid on a concrete surface, which expands when it freezes, so it will quickly burst.

The work is not limited to just the construction of a private house. It will be necessary to make some efforts to arrange the home so that it is as reliable, comfortable and durable as possible. One of the main stages performed after completion of the main construction work, is to create a blind area around the house. This element performs a series important functions. If you wish, you can make a blind area with your own hands; there is nothing super complicated about it.

Some homeowners ignore the need to build a blind area. And absolutely in vain! This building element helps to increase the service life of the building and generally creates more comfortable living conditions. The blind area protects the foundation and the surrounding land from harmful effects various kinds water. Atmospheric and melt water, in the absence of obstacles, can erode the soil so much that moisture seeps into the foundation and then into its base. The consequences of such exposure can be very severe, including destruction of the foundation and the house.

Thus, the blind area is very important element, especially if the house is built on a shallow foundation, the base of which is located close to the top layer of soil. When wet, the sole of the base will lose its strength and begin to sag, which will lead to a significant decrease in strength concrete structure, right up to its destruction.

But even if the house is built on a strong, buried foundation, the need for a blind area cannot be ignored. It must be present in any case, regardless of the type of foundation, soil and level of precipitation characteristic of a particular region, etc.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

There is nothing complicated about constructing a blind area yourself; you just need to take into account and follow the basic recommendations in order to get the most reliable and durable building. It is first necessary to prepare materials and understand the main stages of the technology.

Selecting the width of the blind area

Choose the appropriate width of the structure. Since the “shoulders” of this structure bear the function of protecting the foundation of the structure, the width of the fill should be quite large. To reduce the risk of foundation destruction under the influence of moisture, it is worth taking care to drain water from the walls of the building to the greatest possible distance. The optimal width of the blind area is at least 80 cm.

Quite often, the blind area is made so wide that it simultaneously performs the function convenient path. This point also needs to be taken into account at the stage of planning the blind area, so that in the future you do not have to move sideways along such a path. Thus, the most convenient width of the blind area, which can provide both reliable protection, and freedom of movement, is 150-250 cm.

The blind area is carried out with a certain slope, which can ensure the drainage of rain and melt water from the house. In accordance with building codes, per 100 cm of the width of the structure there must be at least 5-10 cm of slope. Thus, if the blind area is, for example, 100 cm wide, then the edge that meets the wall of the house will rise by 5-10 cm, and the opposite side will be at the same level with the ground.

Such a descent is quite sufficient to effectively drain water from the building. However, it is difficult to move around such a structure. But if you reduce the angle of inclination, the flow of liquid will not be as effective. In view of this, the slope is made at a level of 1.5 cm per 100 cm of the width of the structure. This optimal value, which does not interfere with walking along the path and promotes effective moisture removal.

Materials for the installation of a blind area

The independent construction of the design in question requires the presence of certain devices. The list of materials may vary depending on the selected type of blind area. The most common option is concrete construction.

First you need to clean the area for the blind area, lay a reinforcing mesh of rods with a diameter of at least 6 mm, connect the rods with a special binding wire, install the formwork and pour concrete mortar. This general scheme. However, each stage has its own characteristics and requires separate consideration.

Set for pouring blind area

1. Shovel for digging a trench.
2. Level.
3. Wheelbarrow.
4. Manual tamping.
5. Materials for moisture insulation.
6. Material for thermal insulation.
7. Clay.
8. Crushed stone.
9. Sand.
10. Reinforcing bars or finished design with cells 100x100 mm.

Remove everything from the walls of the house that could interfere with the work, collect the devices listed above and start marking. For this step you will need some rope and metal pegs. When creating markings, make sure that the structure has the same width in all places.

Guide to pouring a blind area

The blind area makes a big contribution to the durability of the foundation, so its creation must be approached with maximum responsibility.

The structure consists of an underlying and a top layer. The first is responsible for creating an even, compacted base for the next layer. It is created from sand and small gravel. The total thickness of the layer is about 2 cm. You can also use clay. When choosing a specific bedding material, focus on the material of the top layer.

The top layer is designed to create water resistance and increase the resistance of the structure to water. Can be created from small cobblestones, clay, concrete and other materials. The thickness of such a layer is about 10 cm.

The instructions will discuss the procedure for arranging the most popular type of blind area - concrete. Having dealt with its construction, you can make a blind area from any other materials suitable for this purpose without any problems.

How to make a blind area with your own hands. Digging trenches and erecting formwork

The technology for arranging a blind area around the house requires mandatory reinforcement. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, the rigidity and durability of the concrete structure will be increased. As noted, you can buy a ready-made mesh or assemble it yourself from metal rods. Cells with a side of 10 cm are considered optimal.

Special attention must be paid to the expansion joint. It is created at the junction of the basement of the house with the blind area. Due to such a seam, the said structures will be protected during the process of soil subsidence. That is, the blind area will be able to sink along the seam without causing damage to the base of the house. The standard seam width is 1-1.5 cm. The seam must be filled with roofing felt, sand-gravel mixture or bitumen of your choice.

You can also use a special rope for filling, the manufacture of which uses foamed polyethylene.

It is important that the diameter of this bundle is approximately ¼ greater than the width of the expansion joint and fits into the gap as tightly as possible. For more convenient compaction of the bundle, take plywood or other similar material.

The blind area technology requires that seams be present across the concrete structure, approximately every 200-300 cm. They will protect the blind area from ruptures during frosts. It is most convenient to make transverse seams using wooden slats. It is enough just to install the slats so that their top is located at the same level as the upper border concrete pouring. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building. Don't forget to take into account the slope of the blind area.

To protect the slats from rotting, they must be pre-treated bitumen mastic, waste oil or other similar material. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building.

Concrete for blind area. Preparation and pouring

Concrete is prepared from 1 part cement (it is best to use the M400 grade material or the less expensive M500), two parts sand and four parts crushed stone.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Wood slats, previously used to create transverse expansion joints, will simultaneously perform the functions of beacons by which you can navigate during the work process.

After pouring is completed, the concrete should be covered with a cloth; burlap is ideal. The cloth should be regularly moistened with water to prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking.

In the end, all that remains is to wait until the concrete gains strength. On average, this takes 1 month. If desired, you can complete the finishing lining of the blind area. Acid-resistant bricks are perfect for this.

Thus, there is nothing complicated about pouring the blind area around the house yourself. Just follow the instructions you received and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY blind area around the house

Construction of a blind area around the house

The familiar “paths” along the perimeter of apartment buildings and private buildings are nothing more than blind areas that prevent the destruction of the building’s foundation. Availability of a protective strip – required condition operation of any home. Even if the building is located in a dry climate, and the soil on the site is not considered difficult, the blind area should still be present.

It also happens: a house is purchased ready-made, but does not have a protective area around the perimeter. Then you will have to decide for yourself how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, otherwise you will soon have to worry about repairing the foundation or basement.

Types of blind areas and their features

They often talk about the numerous functional advantages of the blind area. However, many of them are far-fetched. The main function of the blind area around the house is protective.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: a blind area made according to all the rules creates an excellent waterproof barrier. This means that no precipitation, melted or even partially groundwater will not reach the foundation. Thus, at low cost, they increase the durability and preserve the integrity of the entire house.

We can, of course, mention the aesthetic properties of the blind area around the house, when a beautifully designed protective strip emphasizes external finishing walls of the building or fits organically into the local . But this parameter relates more to the individual wishes of the owners.

The blind area around the house implies the presence of two layers:

• the base, which bears the main load in terms of strength and durability;
• coating responsible for stability and waterproofing.

Any blind area consists of a base (underlying layer) and a covering

Classification is usually carried out according to the second parameter, although the structure of the base is not a constant value.

The blind area around the house is:

• sandy;
• turf;
• crushed stone;
• asphalt concrete;
• from reinforced concrete slabs;
• with monolithic concrete covering;
• mixed options.

Mixed options are those that are made from improvised materials in compliance with technological features creating shoots.

Most often these are combinations of residues floor tiles and concrete.

Blind area around the house: general rules

The protective strip around the perimeter of the building is always created in accordance with certain standards. How to make a blind area around the house, the main three parameters that need to be taken into account:

• width;
• depth;
• incline.

The width of the blind area varies from 60 cm to a meter or more. The determining factors are two points:

• roof overhang;
• additional purpose of the protective strip.

Add 30-40 cm to the roof overhang and get optimal width blind areas. If in the future it is planned to use this area as a path, path or for a flower bed/lawn, then the width is selected in accordance with these requirements. Also, strict requirements are imposed on blind areas on heaving soils - their width must be at least 0.9 m.

Important!

The depth of the blind area is important for correct installation technology. Usually 0.2 meters are allocated for the base and 0.1 meters for upper layer. Naturally, these values ​​are not finite and may vary depending on the specifics of the work.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands

The angle of inclination is a parameter responsible for the rate of moisture drainage from the surface of the blind area. Minimum possible value– 1%, but if you decide to properly make a blind area around the house, then stick to the figure of 5-6%. According to building regulations, the slope in any case should not be more than 10%.

Blind area around the house: slope

Also at the stage preparatory work it is necessary to take care of the quality of the trench. Quality means treating the land with herbicides and manually removing large root systems. This is done in order to further avoid the growth of plants through the materials of the blind area and its destruction.

And the last point regarding the creation of a high-quality blind area is the continuity of the protective strip around the entire perimeter.

Having taken into account all these points and having decided on the type of blind area, you can proceed directly to the work.

Sandy blind area around the house: simple and high quality

Sand-based protective strip is a simple and inexpensive way creating a blind area. To carry out the work you will need:

• sand;
• shovel;
• – potassium (sodium) silicate;
• boiler;
• watering can;
• hardener – a solution of calcium chloride (5-10%) or sodium fluoride (3-7%);
• dense polyethylene film.

The sandy area around the house is done as follows:

1. A trench 0.25 meters deep and the required width is prepared.
2. Treated with herbicide.
3. It is filled with sand so that the first layer is at least 0.1 cm. At the same time, make sure that the required angle of inclination of the protective strip is maintained.
4. The surface of the sand is compacted.
5. Liquid glass or silicate is prepared for work according to the instructions attached to it.
6. Liquid glass is applied to a layer of compacted sand. It is convenient to use a regular watering can here.
7. A layer of hardener is applied on top.
8. For the second layer of sand, a finer fraction of a homogeneous structure is used.
9. Liquid glass and hardener are applied.
10. Cover the blind area with film and leave for several days.

The whole complexity of this technology is working with liquid glass, which usually takes some time to prepare. Otherwise, difficulties do not arise even for inexperienced masters.

Concrete blind area around the house: quality for many years

The area around the perimeter of the house, protected from the weather by a concrete layer - best solutions for those who choose quality and durability. This blind area is suitable for any type of soil, including heaving soil. At correct execution will not require restoration work or additional care measures.

How to make a blind area around a concrete house is not at all difficult, the main thing is to observe the order and density of the layers, and also use only the materials recommended for the work.

Concrete blind area - a combination of durability and strength

Sequence of operations for laying a concrete blind area:

1. Prepare a trench 0.2-.25 m deep, from the bottom of which plant roots are removed and additionally treated with herbicides.
2. The first layer of the base is sand 0.1-0.15 m thick, which should be thoroughly compacted.
3. The second layer is waterproofing, for example: .
4. The third base layer is sand.
5. The fourth layer is crushed stone. It is poured to ground level, that is, the hole is completely covered.
6. Prepare formwork with a wall height of about 0.1 m.
7. The formwork is poured to a height of about 7 cm with concrete. Choose better between brands M200 or M300.
8. Without allowing the concrete to set, reinforcement mesh is laid.
9. Pour the top layer of concrete to the top edge of the formwork, while simultaneously creating the desired slope for the blind area.
10. Conduct ironing concrete to improve its waterproofing properties. To do this, the surface of the newly poured mortar is sprinkled with cement and leveled using a trowel.

A concrete blind area around a house requires the mandatory creation of temperature expansion joints that will prevent the concrete from collapsing under temperature fluctuations and humidity changes. One expansion joint must pass at the junction of the house wall and the blind area, as well as protective stripes must be created at intervals of no more than 2.5 meters in length.

Expansion joints cross the concrete blind area every 2-2.5 meters, and also run along the perimeter of the building

As a barrier, any of the following materials are laid between concrete sections:

• oiled wooden blocks;
• flexible vinyl tapes;
• roofing felt;
• damper tape or other analogue.

You can create expansion joints with help liquid formulations. To do this, during the work process, gaps of about 20 mm thick are left, which are subsequently filled with liquid glass or concrete.

In addition, precisely for this type of protective perimeter professional builders It is recommended to strengthen the adhesion between the foundation and the blind area. To do this, use a hammer drill to make recesses in the wall so that when pouring concrete, about 0.3-0.35 m deep into the wall. More reliable adhesion is provided by pieces of reinforcement, which are driven into the groove made and concreted in the main layer of the blind area.

Blind areas made of clay, crushed stone and other materials

Protective perimeters made of sand and concrete are the most popular, but other technological solutions are also common.

A blind area made of crushed stone is created from a sequence of layers:

• clay – 0.1-0.15 m;
• waterproofing material;
• coarse sand – 0.1-0.15 m;
• geotextiles;
• crushed stone

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands from paving slabs:

The sequence of layers is the same, but there is a peculiarity. To the heavy stones paving slabs did not slide down the slope, the perimeter of the blind area will need to be lined with a curb stone or something similar.

The created border is mounted in concrete castle to avoid deformation of the “fence” under the weight of the main finish.

You can experiment with “soft” solutions. The simplest blind area around a house of this type is done according to the following scheme:

1. Placed in a trench dug on a slope .
2. Some of the earth is poured back.
3. The surface layer is made of pebbles or gravel.

Combinations of techniques are also possible to achieve an optimal aesthetic and functional effect.

The most important thing is that all the work is quite easy to do yourself. After all, it does not require special professionalism, special equipment or specific skills. All the craftsmen need is 2-4 days of free time and the desire to make a high-quality and inexpensive blind area around the house.