- Hmmm ... So the New Year has already passed?- you say.
Well, yes, it did. Well, who's stopping you from preparing for the next New Year? And the star itself is not necessarily just a New Year's attribute. After all, soon, for example, May 9. Well, or now - February 23, which has just come.
Manufacturing history
In general, I will briefly describe the history of creation. For this we need a ceiling (ceiling tiles are light square pieces of foam with a thickness of 3.5 mm). Still need a simple AVR microcontroller Attiny13, five LEDs of any color (I used blue - the only bright LEDs available to me at that time), a couple of pieces of wire. As well as a soldering iron, a heat-shrinkable tube for insulation, a model knife for cutting ceilings, a programming connector (it will also be used to connect power to the star). Well, and, of course, you need at least the most simple programmer(not shown in the photo)
We mark on the ceiling sheet two contours of the star and stripes for the end surfaces.
We cut out all the details and start gluing. We glue with polymer glue such as "Titanium" or "Dragon", in a word, any that is suitable for gluing ceiling tiles. How to glue ceiling tiles:
- we smear the surfaces to be glued with a thin layer of glue.
- We are waiting for a minute (or less) for the glue to dry a little.
- We press the parts together (strongly, but not so as to break the parts) for a few seconds.
If everything is done correctly, then the details are grasped literally in a minute. Of course, they will not stand the full load right away, but you can continue to glue on. Complete drying in half an hour or an hour. If you do not wait for the glue layer to dry before gluing, then you will have to wait much longer.
Having glued all the end surfaces to the lower contour of the star, we proceed to making the filling. The circuit is very simple.
Limiting resistors are not shown on it (I don't remember how much I took - it seems 470 ohms), power (4 legs of the MK - ground, 8 legs - +5 volts).
Not really bothering with the board (after all, it was soldered a couple of hours before the New Year!) I decided to make a voluminous installation. After all, the scheme is simple. Although ... I felt like a barbarian, soldering wires directly to the legs of the microcontroller in an SMD package. Here's the result:
The photo shows a ribbon cable with power connectors and microcontroller programming... Hmm, I think I got so insolent that I didn't even use heat shrink tubing to insulate the LED leads. Well, in principle, it is quite possible to get by. After all, the LEDs will stick and should not move, i.e. there should be no closures. But it is better not to do this and isolate at least one conclusion. We look at the diagram, and, guided by it, we place the LEDs along the rays of the star.
In order for the light from the LEDs to dissipate at least a little, we close them with cotton circles (I begged the circles from my wife, it seems they are intended for removing cosmetics). You can also not bother and use ordinary cotton wool. Well, or even leave it that way.
We flash the microcontroller ( microcontroller connection to the programmer in this circuit is very dreary, because of the non-standard connector, but if you understand, I think it will not be difficult. If you still have questions - ask - I will answer.) Leave the factory fuses. Make sure the LEDs are blinking nicely and positioned correctly (I didn't do that ... I ended up with a slightly incorrect star animation orientation). And glue the star.
Here's what happened.
And here is a video with a demonstration of work (the star has not yet been closed).
The firmware, the scheme and the idea are not mine, but taken from Radiocat, and there, in turn, it was said that it was taken somewhere else.
Many thanks both to the developer of the circuit and firmware, and to the one who wrote an article based on this on Radiocote, where I saw it.
(firmware, schematic in Proteus)
Epilogue
By the way, this is the only device on a microcontroller, which was soldered by hinged installation, and which at the same time immediately started working.
I remembered, by the way - the very first scheme made by me, somewhere in the class ... uh .... sixth? don't remember ... was symmetrical multivibrator circuit,. I did it by hanging installation, but at the same time I did not use a soldering iron. I just twisted everything with wires. When I connected the batteries and saw the light blinking, I was very happy. Twisted by wires and immediately worked!
The LED star, especially when it twinkles, creates a romantic atmosphere and is a worthy festive decoration for any occasion. LED stars are exceptionally good for the New Year and for Christmas: they help create a magical, fabulous environment. Knowing how to solder a little, you can make quite decent LED stars with your own hands.
Required materials (for one star):
- LEDs 5 mm (one can be blinking) 5 pieces;
- 9-volt battery;
- resistors 60 Ohm 2 pieces;
- battery connector (more precisely, connectors from it).
Required tools:
- plywood sheet for a template, approximately 0.5x0.5 m;
- marker;
- protractor;
- insulating tape;
- soldering iron and solder;
- multimeter (only desirable);
- pliers or tongs.
LED Star Making
The wiring diagram of the star is very simple. Five LEDs are connected one after the other in one chain. Note that the switch shown in the diagram will not be a star detail: the star will light up when the battery is inserted into the battery connector. It is important to connect the LEDs correctly: the anode legs (they are longer) are connected to the cathode legs.
For the convenience of assembling a star on a piece of plywood, we make a template: we draw a circle with a marker and mark five points on it at equal distances from each other - for example, using a protractor - dividing the whole circle into five sectors of 72 degrees each.
We place the LEDs on the template at the marked points, unbend their legs to such an angle that the legs of the adjacent LEDs intersect with each other (remember that the anode legs intersect with the cathode ones). We fix the legs on the template with electrical tape. We solder the intersecting legs in four places. We get a star with a broken chain.
We test the electrical circuit. We connect the ends of the star to both contacts of the battery, observing the polarity. If the circuit is made up correctly, then the star will light up. If it does not light up, check if the polarity is correct. If the polarity is correct, and the star still does not light up, then this means that some LED is damaged. In this case, we check the LEDs one by one using a multimeter or a 3-volt power supply.
After making sure that the device is working, we adapt the connector to it for connecting a 9 V battery. The connector will be connected to the star through two resistors. The resistors will limit the current through the LEDs, which will extend the life of the LEDs and the battery.
We take the connector for the 9-volt battery and cut off its soft plastic case with a sharp knife.
We unsolder the wires from the connectors.
Solder resistors to both connectors.
The free ends of the resistors are soldered to the "plus" and "minus" of the star, observing the polarity.
Carefully install the star connector onto the battery. This concludes our work successfully: the LED star is completely ready.
So, we begin our New Year's streamer. I think that the topic is very relevant - to make the top for the tree with your own hands!
The article presents 2 design options - on SMD and conventional LEDs. The design "LED garland on MK Attiny13" is taken as a basis.
Asterisks - I used Chinese transparent tops. Added transistors to increase the number of LEDs. There are three printing options in the files.
According to the scheme: instead of LEDs through a 1kOhm resistor to the base of the NPN BC547 transistor, then the LEDs are simply in parallel. Current limiting resistance - 47 Ohm. The fill is used as a plus and not a minus as we are usually used to (I don’t know why it happened, well, how it happened). In the archive of materials there is a third design option, double-sided, for two-color LEDs. We just made the transition to the other side and added four more LEDs for each beam. This gives a total of 8 LEDs per transistor. When I made a board in DIP packages, I sawed grooves under the LEDs and they illuminate both sides of the star. And then the idea arose not to cut the grooves, but to make two sides of different colors. If you put it on a rotating Christmas tree, or just hang it on wires, it will turn to the viewer in different colors. The hardware has not yet been tested.
details:
The administrator of the portal ordered SMD LEDs several times already here, the seller ships literally on the same day.
Hello to all readers and admirers of the Radiocircuit website! Today I will tell you about a small modernization of the Christmas tree decoration - an asterisk. Taking out Christmas decorations from the box as usual to decorate a Christmas tree for the children for the New Year, I found an asterisk there, bought last year on the market. And I immediately remembered about its drawback - it shines too brightly and works in the "turn signal" mode. Which is pretty annoying, especially if the lights are off in the room.
It was decided to change its internal structure. So, having disassembled it, at first I could not understand for a long time why it was blinking, but then, listening, I found clicks. Which, as it turned out later, published a bimetallic plate in one of the lamps - she was the hero of the occasion.
I decided to improve this business: I designed and manufactured a board for the future "brain" of the asterisk according to Soldered all the components, I had to tinker a little with the LEDs, bending their legs in a certain way (as in the photo). I used LEDs, which were (bright narrow-beam ones), but wide-angle ones would be better suited here. The power supply was summed up by five volts - from the cell phone power supply, which replaced the former plug of the plug.
List of used parts
- MK Atmega8 - 1pc.
- Transistors KT503 - 3 pcs.
- SMD resistors:
- 1206 1 kOhm - 3 pcs.
- 0805 220 Ohm - 15 pcs.
- Bright LEDs (red / yellow) - 15 pcs.
When repeating the device, take into account that there are several jumpers on the reverse side of the board. They are not shown in the diagram of the printed circuit board, for easier visual perception. But the contact numbers are signed, the contacts of the same name must be closed with jumpers. Transistors can be used with any low-power n-p-n structures with a collector current of 150 mA and above. KT503 is installed in the LED star. Resistors are used in frame sizes 1206 and 0805.
For programming the Atmega8 MK, there are signed pins on the board, to which you need to solder the wires from the programmer. With correct assembly, the device starts working immediately and does not need adjustment. When uploading the firmware to the MK, the fuses must be set to work from an internal generator with a frequency of 8 MHz. Although, I think it will work at the factory settings, only slower.
Video
Now the updated LED star is fixed in its rightful place and pleases the eyes of everyone looking at it, creating a truly New Year's mood! For all questions and wishes, you can contact the forum or in a personal. Archive with all files (circuit, firmware, etc.). The program is written in the language Si using the CodeVisionAVR development environment. Tyomich (Artyom Bogatyr) was with you, see you again on the Radio Scheme website in the New Year!
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