Parquet is one of the most popular floor coverings, which has earned the trust of consumers with high technical characteristics and safety for human health.
Parquet panels are attractive
This type of flooring is laid on a concrete base or on joists with or without a subfloor. It is worth considering each of the installation methods and determining their characteristic features.
Parquet laying technology
The base determines how the boards will be mounted, whether it is necessary to fasten the parquet to the base or can simply be connected to each other. There are two methods of laying parquet.
"Floating" method
When laying "floating" the first row is laid near one of the longest walls, but not close to the door. Lay towards the window if the window opening is on a smaller wall. Using the floating method means that the boards are joined and fixed together with a tongue-and-groove system, but they are not attached to either the base or the walls.
Floating installation method Previously used special glue method connections, but it takes a lot of time and complicates installation. Modern models equipped with special locking mechanisms that ensure reliable fastening.
The use of a special locking mechanism allows complex installation yourself, you don’t need to hire a professional worker for this.
The first row is laid with the tongue of the lock against the wall, leaving a technological gap of 1 cm. If the plinth is purchased, then you need to take into account its width so that it covers the flooring by 2-3 mm. To ensure that the gap does not change during installation, special retaining wedges are used, which are removed after completion of the repair work.
Important! When laying floor coverings such as parquet or laminate, you can find advice on the Internet that every second row should start with ½ or 1/3 of the lamella, but it is not necessary that this value be maintained. You can start from the rest of the previous row. The main thing is that the rows overlap for better adhesion of the boards.
The slats are connected to each other in a specific way for the type of lock. One type of lock is easily connected by hand, while the second type requires knocking out the slats. Do not use a hammer because direct blows to the end may damage it. It's better to use wooden block and a rubber mallet.
The “floating” installation method is suitable for rooms with an area of no more than 50 square meters. meters. The main advantage of the method is that it is easy to dismantle and replace damaged areas.
"Non-floating" or solid method
While the first installation method does not require the use of a direct connection to the surface, the solid installation method uses adhesives and mechanical fasteners to secure the boards to the surface.
Adhesive-attached parquet If glue is used for fastening, then each board is glued to the base. And in the case, for example, with self-tapping screws, it is used to secure the first and last row and the rows between them with a spacing of 3-4 rows.
The process of preparing the base for laying differs slightly depending on the method, but has the same common features and features.
Requirements for the base of parquet panels
Parquet requires fulfillment of certain requirements for the base, because if they are not met, the operation process can be seriously shortened. Among all of them, it is worth noting the main ones.
- Solid foundation. Panels should only be mounted on durable surface, which does not bend. Therefore they are used to a greater extent concrete screed or self-leveling floor. In extreme cases, they are laid on joists or a rough plank floor. If properly strengthened, they can also be used.
- Smooth surface. The flooring must have equal distributed load. This can only be achieved if you install it on flat surface without large differences and tilts. This is not always possible, so you should not allow a height difference of more than 2-3 mm per square meter.
You can achieve a level base different ways - Moisture protection. Parquet is made of wood, and it is known to not like moisture. Therefore, parquet panels must be protected from moisture, otherwise due to high humidity they can burst and subsequently swollen areas become visible in the floor. To avoid such a fate, you must use waterproofing layer, especially when laying on a concrete base.
As you can see, there are not so many requirements, but achieving an ideal foundation is still not easy.
Parquet installation
Installation of parquet – finishing premises, therefore they start laying it only after the rest renovation work completed. This applies to painting walls and ceilings, as well as installing doors. Insert doors taking into account the rise in floor height after laying the parquet.
Must be observed temperature regime indoors and humidity level:
- the temperature should be between +18 - +24 degrees Celsius;
- air humidity 40-60%;
- The moisture content of the installation base is no more than 4%.
Before installation, the parquet must be acclimatized to these room conditions. To do this, it is left for 2-3 days in the room, uncovered in advance.
If all requirements are met, together with the installation procedure, the result will be an excellent finishing coating that will bring a lot of joy and convenience.
It's worth checking out each one. possible types reasons and note character traits installation
Laying parquet on a concrete base
A concrete base can immediately fulfill one of the important requirements - evenness and strength. Therefore, it is often used for laying panels.
If laying is carried out on an existing surface, then it is checked for level indicator. For parquet, it is important that the base is perfectly level. The maximum height difference can be no more than 2-3 mm per square meter.
The concrete base takes about 6 weeks to dry. If the evenness of the base is deteriorated and exceeds the permissible difference, then a new layer of concrete screed is laid. If there are minor differences, then use a self-leveling floor.
Attention! The self-leveling floor levels itself. This greatly simplifies the process of leveling the surface for installation. It also dries faster than concrete screed.
Parquet does not tolerate moisture, so it must be protected from it. To do this, use a layer of waterproofing made from ordinary polyethylene film. The film is laid overlapping each other by 15-20 cm and fixed with tape.
A substrate is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. Typically, foamed propylene or cork is used. You need to choose based on the characteristics of the material.
Plywood can be used over a concrete floor But this method of backing material is only possible for the glue-free installation method. If used adhesive composition to fix the boards, then sheets of plywood are laid on top of the waterproofing layer on a concrete base. They are already installing parquet boards with glue.
Laying on joists
The joists do not require dirty and wet leveling work concrete base. This installation method saves time because you need to wait at least 6 weeks for the concrete to dry.
Also, using logs as a base will allow you to use the space between them for laying communications and to improve the thermal insulation contour of the room using insulation materials. This will reduce sound transmission, which will create a comfortable environment if neighbors are noisy. These, of course, are only incidental advantages of the method.
Sectional floor structure For logs, wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x70-100 mm are usually used. The moisture content of the wood should not be higher than 12%. To increase their service life, logs are pre-treated with antiseptic agents.
The logs should lie perpendicular to the direction of the parquet boards, and they, in turn, choose the direction depending on the shape of the room and the location of the windows. Therefore, you need to take this factor into account in advance.
To prevent parquet boards from sagging, logs are laid in increments of 25-30 cm. After the logs have been successfully installed, the overall level is checked and, if necessary, planed.
There is a special type of joist called adjustable joist. Their use is convenient because they can be used to adjust the floor level using a special key. Their design includes special threaded holes, into which plastic bolts are screwed.
To install parquet on installed logs use plywood in 2 layers. The first layer is attached with self-tapping screws, and the second layer with glue and self-tapping screws. When fastening with self-tapping screws, they are recessed. The total thickness of the two layers must be more than 20 mm. After making the subfloor from plywood, it is sanded and leveled. After which the finishing floor is laid on top of it.
Laying parquet on a subfloor
Using drafts wooden floors for the base under parquet board also possible. It is not always possible to use the first two methods of preparing the base. There are often cases when it is necessary to lay new flooring on top of the old flooring.
General requirements to the plank floor:
- The logs under the plank floor are treated with an antiseptic. If it is possible to go down into the underground, you can do it from there. If the floor is floor covering, then you need to disassemble it and check the condition of the lag. If necessary, damaged areas are replaced with new ones.
- After inspection of the joists, floorboards are laid on top of them. The condition of the boards also needs to be taken into account. If any boards are deformed, then you should discard them and replace them with new ones.
- You need to fasten the plank floor without sparing the fasteners. As a result, the floor should not creak.
- After the floor is re-laid, it is leveled with a sanding machine.
- A sheet of plywood is laid on top of the boards with glue and secured with self-tapping screws. Parquet panels are laid on top of the finished base.
Advice! It is not recommended to use a plank base under the parquet board. If it is possible to convert it into a base made of joists and two layers of plywood, then it is better to use it.
Regardless of the choice of base, you must adhere to 3 basic requirements: strength, evenness and dryness. If all of them are fulfilled, then the parquet floor will delight you for many years.
Determining the height of the screed depends, firstly, on how horizontally the base of the future floor is made, and secondly, on finishing coating floor. After all, if you plan to use various floor coverings in your house or apartment - parquet, linoleum or ceramic tiles- it is natural that the height of the screed for parquet and the height for tiles will be different. The height of the screed must be calculated for each type separately in order to ultimately obtain a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, with the choice of finishing flooring you need to decide in advance so that the height difference can be compensated by the height of the screed.
Step-by-step instructions “Do-it-yourself screed for parquet”
As already mentioned, the height of the parquet screed depends directly on the unevenness of the base, and in order to perfectly level it, you need to bring the zero level. If you have a laser level in your arsenal of tools, then no difficulties should arise - just turn on the device and use the beam to make marks on the walls.
If there is no laser level, then use a spirit level; you should immediately note that a linear or rack level (carpentry tool) is not suitable for this.
We display the zero level
The zero level is marked immediately in all rooms of the house or apartment. For determining zero level put a mark on the wall at any location comfortable height, usually 1.2-1.5 m from the floor level. Then, using a level, mark all the walls, at least two marks per wall. When using a laser level, this work will take several minutes; with a spirit level you will have to tinker longer.
As a result, we get marks around the perimeter of the room, which are located on the same horizontal level. We connect the resulting marks into a continuous line using a painting cord (the cord and paint for it can be purchased at hardware store).
Determine height fluctuations. We measure the height from the floor surface in several places along the line, the measurements will be completely different. We find the difference between the largest and smallest values, this will be the difference in the difference in floor height in the room. We proceed from this value when choosing the height of the screed. Having decided on the height of the screed, subtract it from the height of the previously drawn line. For example, if we drew a line at a height of 150 cm, and the height of the screed is 5 cm, subtract and get 140 cm. We measure this length from the previously marked line and mark another line. This is the zero level, which will serve us when installing beacons.
Write down the received data. When purchasing a leveling mixture, show the recording to the seller so that he can help you choose the best one. suitable option. Please note that for the screed you will need approximately 9-10 bags of mixture per 7-8 square meters.
Preparing the subfloor
On next stage We prepare the base of the floor. All large cracks must be sealed with thick cement mortar; anything that flakes off must be cleaned. Since the base under the screed must be clean, it is necessary to remove debris and dust. Perfect option– take advantage construction vacuum cleaner, or old household ones, as a last resort you need to carefully sweep the floor. For better protection from dust, it is advisable to prime the base of the floor by purchasing a primer at a hardware store.
To protect the walls around the perimeter of the room, temporary waterproofing is attached - roofing felt tape with a protrusion of 10-15 cm from the floor pouring level.
We install beacons
We install beacons or guides based on the zero level. They can be used as metal profiles, straight pipes or special beacons that can be bought at a hardware store. Not recommended for use wooden slats, they take moisture from the solution, which can affect the quality of concrete. When installing beacons, you should not forget that minimum thickness concrete screed should be 0.7 cm; with a smaller thickness, cracks will soon form on the screed.
The beacons are installed parallel to each other and perpendicular to the wall in which the door is located. Using special screed beacons, we adjust the height using dowels. You can install beacons on “cakes” of thick mortar. By pressing them down or supplementing them with metal plates, we adjust the height to the zero level. In this case, leave them for a while for the solution to set. The distance between beacons must correspond to the length of the rule used.
For small volumes of solution, to obtain a homogeneous mass, use a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment; for large volumes, you will need a concrete mixer. Using ready mixture for the screed, spread it strictly according to the instructions. To increase the strength of the screed, you can add a plasticizer to the mixture in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. Ready solution has a homogeneous thick dough structure. You can check the density like this: take a little bit of the solution in your hand and clench your fist, unclench it - the solution should be in a lump, not crumble or flow.
Fill the solution
The solution is poured from the far corner, for which a portion of the solution is placed between the beacons. Then, as a rule, relying on the beacons, they stretch the mixture and at the same time level it. The screeding of one room must be done in one day; it is not advisable to take long breaks during work, otherwise the edges will have time to “seize”. When pouring the screed, it is advisable to pierce the freshly laid mortar with a metal rod to prevent the appearance of air voids in the screed itself.
Remember, in order for the screed under the parquet to be strong, the solution must harden and not dry out! Therefore, in order to prevent it from cracking, the surface of the screed should be moistened regularly, 3 times a day, with a small amount of water.
The beacons can be left in the screed. The screed should be thoroughly moistened with water, covered with film and left for at least 2-3 weeks. If you used the guides, then after 2-3 days they need to be removed. Once the concrete has hardened and can be walked on, it will be necessary to repair the marks from the removed guides.
Checking the quality of the screed
After 2-3 weeks we check the quality of the completed screed. The evenness of the surface can be assessed using the two-meter rule.
The gaps when laid on the floor should not exceed 4 mm. The hardness of the fill is checked with hammer blows; if any traces remain, they should be barely noticeable. The quality of the screed is checked for the presence of air voids in it by tapping with a wooden block, and the sound should be “ringing” and “solid”.
Video screeds for parquet and laminate
Before you lay down new flooring, you need to think about the base. That is why preparing the floor for parquet boards is a mandatory step in carrying out this type of work.
In order for the parquet board to ultimately delight its owners with beauty and durability, it will be necessary to install a screed located in between load-bearing structure and future floor covering.
How to determine the zero level?
Preparing any floor for parquet boards begins with determining the zero level, i.e. screeds along the horizon. To do this, you will need a water level or a laser device specially designed for this purpose. It is not recommended to use rack and pinion linear levels, because in the end the indicators will be inaccurate.
In most cases, marks with zero level readings are made on each wall in the room at a distance of approximately 1.5 m from the floor. In order to receive horizontal level, you need to connect all the previously marked points with lines.
Using these lines, it is easy to determine to what extent the floor varies. Every 1.5 m, take measurements from the floor to the zero level. The data that you ultimately receive must be taken into account in the process of determining the level of the base for the floor.
Separately, it is worth saying that while you are determining the thickness of the screed, do not forget about the thickness of the parquet board and the substrate. Do not forget also that in terms of thickness, all indicators must match and correspond to each other.
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Dust removal and preparation process
In addition to all of the above, you have to clean the surface from existing cracks and peelings. In order to ultimately get a strong and even base, all cracks must be properly covered with cement mortar. If there are peelings on the surface, they must be removed. This is necessary so that the surface ultimately turns out homogeneous.
You might be interested in: Rules and installation diagram for water heated floors
To remove dust you will need a vacuum cleaner. construction work or if there is none, then you can use the usual one. After you have removed all existing dust, you need to treat the surface with a polyurethane-based primer. This is necessary so that the floor acquires a roughness effect. It is this that provides excellent and durable adhesion between the screed and the base under the parquet board.
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Installation of guides
After you prepare the base, you need to start installing the beacons. Beacons are guides made of a fairly rigid profile, i.e. pipes These parts are required in order to level the plane of the screed.
In most cases, beacons are attached to the subfloor using cement mortar or bolts designed for this purpose. In order to adjust the position of the beacons, a rack level is needed.
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How to make a screed?
For quite some time now large quantity Since time for these purposes in our country they use a solution of sand and cement. Its preparation must be carried out according to all established rules. Otherwise, the consequences can be very dire.
For example, if you overdo it with water, you cannot guarantee the strength of the screed. If you want the solution to become even more plastic, then during the mixing process you need to add a special plasticizer.
Do not allow more than 2 hours to pass after preparing the solution. This is due to the fact that after the specified time the solution will lose its beneficial features and thus the final result will not be as desired.
The screed can be made either manually or using specialized devices. In the latter option, the quality of the screed will be ideal. This is due to the fact that the mixture is prepared directly in the device, after which it is directed to the required places using a hose.
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Separately, it should be said that under no circumstances should you start laying parquet boards on a screed that has not dried out. It usually takes more than a month to dry. In order to determine whether the screed has dried or not, place an oilcloth on it and leave it for 24 hours. If in the end you find condensation on the oilcloth, this means that it is too early to lay the parquet.
Currently, so-called self-leveling floors are often used for screeding. They dry out much more faster than concrete, and as a result the surface turns out perfectly smooth.
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How to properly care for concrete screed?
You must understand that making a screed is not everything. She requires special care. Throughout the drying time, certain chemical processes occur in concrete.
- To prevent the concrete screed from drying out and hardening, it requires moisture. Throughout the week, it is necessary to moisten the screed several times a day. This is necessary so that cracks do not appear on it in the end.
- After a week has passed, the screed should be thoroughly moistened with water and covered with polyethylene film. It should remain in this state for 2 weeks. Take your time! If you rush and try to speed up the drying process, you will end up having to do the job all over again anyway.
The concrete screed is the basis of the floor, which will subsequently serve as the final floor (parquet or parquet boards, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.). To make a concrete screed, a solution is used, which, after drying, turns into a very reliable foundation for the floor.
Before considering all the intricacies of floor screed technology, you should dwell on what exactly it is. So, a screed is a special mixture that, when frozen, becomes a hard surface of a given strength, and its purpose is to level the upper surface of the floors.
What types of screeds are there?
Distinguish dry And wet. The principle is simple - dry material is used as the main filler, on top of which sheet material is fixed.
Wet screed is a mixture of sand and cement in the required proportions. In other words, we're talking about about the most ordinary concrete mixture, that, in fact, is the whole trick. Manufacturers claim that special secret additives are added to the screed so that it forms a more durable surface.
There are also pre-prepared ones on sale. the right proportions dry mixes, including especially miraculous self-leveling compounds.
Types of “wet” screeds
The floor screed device can generally be divided into four main types, based on the type of surface, the characteristics of its preparation and the formation of the final screed layer:
Knitted tie. It is considered the most common option for apartments where screeds are made on top of floor slabs.
With a layer of waterproofing. Such a screed is also needed in the kitchen, since these rooms always have high humidity, and there is also a possibility that there will be a large volume of water on the floor. In this case, a layer of screed is formed on top of the laid waterproofing material.
Screed with waterproofing
With a layer of thermal insulation. This layer is required by default when laying the screed on the ground. If necessary, it can be used in houses and apartments for the purpose of fencing from the basement or other rooms that are not heated.
Screed with thermal insulation
With final self-leveling coating. After completing the main screed, in this case, use thin layer, which will independently provide you with a perfectly flat surface, which is necessary, in particular, for leveling the floor under linoleum or - materials that are sensitive to any unevenness, even minor ones. are also formed using a more liquid solution, which itself will be distributed over the entire surface under gravity.
What are the secrets of the technology?
The most important thing for laying concrete floor screed is that the surface must be perfectly clean and dry. It is worth noting that achieving this is often quite difficult, since you have to deal with holes of bizarre shapes, protruding reinforcement and traces of stirring cement mortar. However, it is important to understand: the surface simply needs to be cleaned.
Requires thorough surface priming
Second prerequisite A high-quality floor screed requires applying a special primer to the floor. This is done in order to:
- provide the floor surface with a water-repellent effect, which is provided by special primers. When applied, such a primer forms a continuous thin film, and it does not require an additional layer of waterproofing;
- ensure better wettability and contact of surfaces, that is, achieve maximum adhesion of the screed to the surface.
Applying primer
The third principle of floor screed technology is waiting for final drying. This will take at least 45 days. If you are in a hurry and do not give wet screed dry well, then, for example, the parquet floor will subsequently very quickly become unusable.
And finally, the last stage is the actual installation of the flooring. This may be, depending on the design of the structure, a flooring made of synthetic material or plywood. If this is the case, then installation is carried out on special adhesives, mixtures and mastics directly onto the screed.
Screed technology
I must say that it scares many people. However, in itself it is quite simple. The most difficult thing in this matter is calculating the required volume of a mixture of sand and cement. In addition, it is necessary to correctly install the beacons so that the surface is level. In some construction teams this operation is carried out by auxiliary workers, since mixing the solution, pouring it on the floor and then leveling the floor according to the installed beacons is not a very difficult task. And you can study and perform it yourself.
Surface waterproofing
So, first you need to assess the condition of the surface on which you plan to lay the solution. If your old screed is in in good condition, then it is better to lay a self-leveling floor on it, but if it is cracked and crumbles, then it should be eliminated. If the floor is poured in the basement, then you need to remove upper layer soil by about 20 millimeters, create sand cushion and then compact it.
Determining the level of the top of the screed
Once the base has been brought to an excellent base, the highest point of the floor should be determined. It’s more convenient to do this with water, and it’s better laser level. But what to do if the level difference is different rooms reaches, for example, 80 millimeters? Is it necessary to bring the surface of the entire apartment to the same level? Of course, this is competent and professional, but on the other hand, the result will be an overconsumption of material. The lowest places in this case are possible. If the levels differ insignificantly, they are easily hidden with the help of decorative thresholds.
We attach the guide beacons
When installed on various levels“zero” is set at the usual level, and beacons are placed from this point. They are guides that are designed to level the floor at the same level. You can make them from wood yourself or purchase special guides. This will be even more convenient, since it is quite difficult to find an absolutely even wooden beam. Beacons are available in heights of 6 or 10 millimeters.
Beacons installed
Working with beacons
- several beacons are set to a width slightly smaller than the width of the rule that will later be used to level the surface;
- Using a level, a uniform height is established for all beacons. For this purpose, linings of bricks and tiles are laid under them, placing them at a distance of approximately 270 millimeters from each other;
- the lighthouse is fixed to the site using the same mortar that is used to fill the floor.
The beacons have frozen - you can start screeding the floor. It is advisable to first prime the surface or moisten it with water - this will ensure better adhesion.
Important!
Pay attention to the joints - if there are cracks, they need to be repaired.
Floor mortar is usually made from cement and construction sand. Keep the proportion 1:3. And keep in mind that the sand must be construction grade sand. For maximum mixing efficiency, use a mixer or small concrete mixer. It is important to understand that the strength of the finished screed will directly depend on how uniform the mixture is. In those places where the concentration of cement is higher, cracks always form, and where there is more sand, the screed crumbles.
Mixing the solution
Mix the mixture and pour it into a bucket of water - take about 1.7 liters for 10 kilograms of dry mixture. Moreover, note that it is the mixture that needs to be poured into the water, and not vice versa. Next, the mixture is stirred for another five minutes, after which it should sit for another five minutes, and then quickly mix again. Your solution is ready.
Let's get started with the process:
- the mixture is kneaded and dumped near the wall, which is located opposite the entrance;
- using a trowel, the mixture must be leveled;
- As a rule, the mixture is concentrated along the beacons. It is not at all necessary to pull it strictly towards yourself; it is advisable to even slightly turn it to the right and left.
While you are screeding, someone else should already be preparing a new volume of the mixture.
Finished screed surface
After about a day, you can already walk on the finished screed. But inside she has not yet frozen enough to begin finishing work. The surface of the screed sometimes needs to be moistened - this way you will ensure uniform setting of the solution.
If screed thickness is more 5 centimeters, it is necessary to use reinforcing mesh.
It is spread over the entire floor surface area. There are also various plasticizing additives that can improve the setting of cement. Such solutions are poured into water before preparing the concrete.
In addition, you can increase the rate of hardening of the mixture by increasing the temperature in the room. Often used for this heat guns. But under no circumstances should it be installed in a room where work is still being carried out, since in this case the surface may crack, because the temperature in the place where the gun is installed and in the far corner of the room will be different, therefore, the mixture will harden unevenly. Technology .
If you pay attention to all construction work, follow the instructions and take everything into account important nuances, especially regarding the quality of the solution, you will get a reliable concrete floor screed that will not crack and will last a long time.
Dry screed Knauf- a safe, simple and labor-intensive way to level the floor for any type of finishing coating. The multilayer superfloor consists of advanced gypsum fiber board sheets laid on a granular fill. The loose frame ensures leveling of the surface geometry with minimal labor costs. Knauf superfloor guarantees surface strength and resistance to loads of up to 1000 kg/m2.
Advantages of the Knauf product:
- eliminates the need to wait several weeks for the layer to completely harden, as is the case with a concrete screed;
- allows you to significantly save on noise and heat insulation, because the embankment itself and gypsum fiber board sheets perfectly block noise and retain the natural heat of the floor surface;
- suitable for work in rooms with weak floors: the weight of the hardened layer of concrete screed is several times higher than the total weight of the multilayer coating materials.
Features of dry screed for parquet
Knauf flooring is compatible with all types of finishing surfaces, including parquet boards. The characteristics of the material - and parquet is known to be afraid of moisture - suggest that the floor screed will be covered with a layer of plywood, preferably moisture-resistant. The reason for this need for additional costs for plywood is the presence of tension in the wood in the moisture removed by the layer of laminated veneer - plywood.
The optimal thickness of the plywood layer is 3/4 of the parquet board. But in practice, we allow a choice standard thickness- 10 mm or multilayer construction, often needed to adjust the layer height. Before display plywood sheets they are sawed, a surface layout is formed (1-1.5 cm from the wall), after which the layer is placed on glue and fastened with self-tapping screws using gypsum plasterboard. On last stage In preparation, the “shrunken” plywood is scraped.
How we make a floor screed for parquet
Dry floor screed technology
Dry floor screeding is performed according to the following scheme:
- The surface is cleaned of old coatings.
- Lay a layer of plastic film (for vapor barrier)
- Glue around the perimeter of the room edge tape made of foamed polyethylene (for sound insulation).
- Fill up a layer of expanded clay
- Lay out guides for the superfloor.
- Knauf GVL sheets are laid (the grooves are coated with glue, the elements are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws).
In some cases, a layer of additional hydro- or sound-thermal insulation is laid under the GVL coating.
Work on laying the final surface, in the case of parquet - laying a plywood layer, can begin immediately after laying the superfloor.
