How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During the construction phase, repair work and when servicing a private home, sometimes you have to work at heights. Using regular ladder It is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be much more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. For the manufacture of metal scaffolding with your own hands you will need a certain skill, and so welding machine and at least basic concept how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but production requires the use of wood High Quality and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it survives, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without losses and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can place cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

Different types of work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, you do not need a high load bearing capacity. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that require a minimum quantity building materials, and can be assembled/disassembled/transported in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation on required height It won’t take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height using it. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on top part triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It needs to be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, you need to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if you are not supposed to use heavy materials. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then you will need full forests. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires sufficient quantity wood

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out on high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which crossbars are placed at a certain pitch, which will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this regard, a metal structure will be more practical than a wooden one, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes You will have to additionally weld the pipes.

Scaffolding is widely used to carry out any engineering work at a certain height. Structures are classified not only by the type of material used for installation, but also by the method of fastening the component elements. Very often the need arises when finishing the facades of private houses, when you need to quickly and easily move along the walls.

Use of wood material

It is not difficult to make such a design with your own hands. Most often, stable and durable frame-type scaffolding is installed independently. This installation requires the presence of a strong frame, which is given rigidity by installing diagonals and racks. Scaffolding of this type can be manufactured:

1. Made of wood.
2. Made of metal.

Wooden scaffolding is easier to install, but to ensure safety precautions, it is recommended to install them yourself only when necessary finishing works at low altitude. For example, when finishing the facade of a house on the first floor level. This is due to the fact that when installing structures of greater height, it is difficult to provide them with the necessary rigidity and stability.

Video review: Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Metal constructions

Metal scaffolding, the frame of which is made of pipes and profiles, has a number of advantages over wooden ones, namely:

1. Higher strength, which guarantees safety during work.
2. Good rigidity, which ensures comfort during work.
3. Easy to assemble as metal components are secured using simple and reliable fastening methods.
4. Durability during storage, which means the possibility of reusable scaffolding.
5. Absolute fire safety.

Shown in the photo finished section. It is from these elements that the design of frame scaffolding of any size is formed.

Many people are interested in whether they can trust self-assembled scaffolding. After all, working at height is always associated with danger, and, therefore, when using the structure, complete safety must be guaranteed. In this regard, the question of how to make durable scaffolding is quite relevant.

The process of installing frame scaffolding from metal components is not particularly complicated, so all installation operations can be carried out with your own hands if you have basic carpentry and metalworking skills. The main thing is to be extremely careful during installation, and perform all operations efficiently and slowly.

Frame-type scaffolding is primarily used for work on straight facades. They are considered absolutely safe when carrying out work operations at a height of up to 50 m. And this is significantly higher than allowed wooden structures.

A general diagram of the frame type design is presented below:

Installation of metal scaffolding

To build a high-quality and reliable metal scaffolding structure you will need the following:

• Profile having a cross section of 30 x 30 mm. for installation vertical racks.
• Pipes having a diameter of 15 mm. for mounting ties between posts horizontally and diagonally.
• Profile having a cross section of 25 x 25 mm. to form work platform supports and protective fencing.
• Boards about 5 cm thick to form a working platform.
• Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening metal components.
• Self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

Before installing scaffolding of this type, it is necessary to think over the construction plan and location of the sections. Material calculations are carried out according to ready-made drawings, which can be made in any form. But it is very important that they take into account the following: design features for each individual section:

1. Height between tiers: 2 m.
2. Width between posts: 1 m.
3. Length between posts: 3 m.

The number of sections is calculated depending on the length of the wall and the height of the house.

Stages of work

Before installation, it is necessary to thoroughly compact the soil in the area where scaffolding is planned to be erected. It is also advisable to arrange a drainage system to prevent soil erosion in rainy weather.

At the first stage, pipe sections with a diameter of 15 mm are cut. required length and the required quantity according to the drawings.

On both sides, cuts are made at the ends so that they can be flattened. This will allow you to perform quality connection with vertical posts for which a metal profile is used.

Next on construction site The location of the vertical posts is marked. First, shoes are installed in these places, and then vertical posts are fixed in them, which are tightened with transverse crossbars and diagonal braces in the places indicated in the drawings.

Fixation is carried out using bolts, nuts and washers, which are pre-installed drilled holes. Diagonal braces are fastened in the same way at the intersection points.

After this, you should proceed to arranging the working area from boards, which are pre-cut to size. To do this, in increments of no more than half a meter, a support profile is mounted on the upper crossbars between the racks. Boards are attached to it using self-tapping screws. To ensure safety, a protective fence is installed around the work site. A ladder for climbing to the upper tier of scaffolding can be purchased, or can be formed using a profile between the side posts of the frame.

Metal scaffolding can consist of several tiers. This design is formed from required quantity separate sections that are welded together. It should be remembered that in this case, to ensure the rigidity of the product, diagonal ties must be mounted in a checkerboard pattern.

IMPORTANT! Self-made scaffolding must be reliable and the structure can support the weight of working people, tools, construction materials, and supplies.

If there is the slightest doubt about the impossibility of providing the necessary strength, preference should be given to purchased professional products.

From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding do it yourself - step-by-step instructions have been prepared for you. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding - temporary or permanent system supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is not profitable to purchase them for home use; you can only rent them for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced ​​cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides made of boards, with sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to link greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, do wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
6. Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required amount"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution– make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• floorings and lintels for it;
• fencing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal struts.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Forests from metal pipes much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forests	Description
frame	metal structures made of vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffoldings are lightweight and easy to install
wedge	very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pin	Rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but is too expensive and puts a lot of pressure on the ground
clamp	These are universal scaffolds, excellent for complex buildings. geometric shape. The assembly process is quite labor-intensive, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance between the racks of 2 to 2.5 meters, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: the smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meter ones along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are lifted, placed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls building level, and if everything is correct, firmly knock down the frame with nails. Finished design should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

Step 3. Installation of flooring

Flooring boards must be nailed to the upper cross beams. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; The boards are laid closely, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Assembly of metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section has a height of 1.5 m, a width of 1 m and a length of 1.65 to 2 m.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and 8 cm long blanks are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Step 3. Frame assembly

Two vertical posts are connected to each other by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. From sheet metal cut out square plates 70x70 mm and weld them flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not sink into the ground, although on soft soils dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4. Section installation

Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all parts together and check the horizontal position with a level. top bars. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.

To ensure that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends according to the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Step 5. Painting the scaffolding

Metal scaffolding are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, moisture causes the frame to become corroded, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring also treated and painted to protect against moisture and rot.

Prices for poles, profile pipes

Pillars, profile pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding

Many works during the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at heights. Scaffolding, which is easy to purchase, can make the process of carrying out such activities easier and safer. finished form or assemble it yourself. Such structures are made independently from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple schemes.

Basic elements of wood and metal scaffolding

Scaffolding (SC) is an auxiliary support structure. They are used for installing wall siding and roofing, lining gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other activities. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made from wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following basic elements:

• Vertical racks. These parts absorb the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
• Jumpers. Parts of the structure used for installing the decking. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
• Ties. There are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
• Railing. They are the simplest fencing that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
• Flooring. A structure made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
• Stairs. Allow construction workers to climb onto and off scaffolding.
• Persistent cuts. Important element structures that protect it from tipping over.

Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They have no heavy weight. Their parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or nails. But wooden structures are not suitable for heavy loads. Dismantling such scaffolding takes a long time. They can subsequently be collected several more times to complete high-altitude work. But the strength of re-assembled structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.

SL from profile pipe much more reliable. They are quickly disassembled and then quickly assembled, maintaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they can be increased additional elements.

Types of structures and their operational characteristics

All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used for their assembly. There are the following types of structures described:

• Frame.
• Pin.
• Wedges.
• Hanging.
• Clamps.

Frame structures are strong and durable in use. They are made from metal parts with light weight (for example, from aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. They are often equipped with wheels to quickly move the structure along the surface being processed (house walls, pediment).

Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Assembled from metal pipes connected into a single structure by nested locking elements and welding (with its help, curved pieces of reinforcing bars are welded to the structure). Pin SLs are recommended for making brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.

Wedge scaffolding is mobile and quite durable. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special flanges with slots. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.

Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used to decorate walls with tiles and other types of facing materials, for washing façade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.

Reliable wooden structure - how to make it yourself?

Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3–5 cm thick and timber 10x10 cm. The tools required are a circular saw, a drill and a hammer. Nails (screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work carried out with a tape measure and a building level. Boards 3 cm thick are intended for creating stiffeners, 5 cm - for constructing flooring. The scaffolding drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:

• The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length – 400.
• The minimum width of the flooring is 100 cm.
• The distance between the support posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.

For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It is not allowed to have cracks or other defects. All wooden elements treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and rot. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. Four beams are cut according to the planned height of the SL. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams, 360 and 400 cm long, are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second ones are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first ones - along the upper edge. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with spacers. The latter are installed diagonally.

The frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, and connected (temporarily) with sidewalls. The distance between the upper edges of the support posts is taken to be 100 cm, between the lower edges – 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal installation of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one whole with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made of soft metal, which, under heavy load, does not break, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If the scaffolding is exposed to variable or significant shock loads, such fasteners will break. This leads to the SL falling apart.

The flooring is made from boards. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are installed without gaps - the tighter they lie, the more reliable the structure will be. Additional crossbars are installed on the sides of the structure. These lintels give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.

Metal scaffolding – how many years are they designed for?

Structures made from profile pipes consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding begins to bear serious loads, it is better to build them from steel. For assembly metal structure You need a welding unit, electric drill, level, grinder, fasteners (bolts and screws). The scaffolding flooring is made from edged boards (recommended thickness - 4 cm). Supports, cross members, adapters and other parts of the structure are made from round and profile pipes with a cross section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.

Spacers are cut from 1.5-centimeter diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal parts – 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters long). Their length is 6 cm. After this, the tubular products are flattened in the places of the cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of load-bearing pillars and struts.

Pipes with a cross section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into lengths of 8 and 30 cm, respectively. Adapters are made from the resulting blanks - special elements for increasing the height of the SL. Sections of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.

Using spacers and vertical posts, two frames are created. They are not difficult to make - you should weld spacers to the posts every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that are visually similar to stairs.

Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The plates will not allow the massive structure to fall into the ground under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it. If necessary, wooden blocks are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.

Welded frames are placed vertically. The attachment points of the diagonal struts are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All parts of the scaffolding are connected. After this, be sure to check the horizontality of the crossbars using a level. If there is a distortion, parts of the SL are adjusted. It is prohibited to operate a homemade structure with non-horizontal crossbars due to its low stability.

Making decking and painting pipe structures

Flooring metal scaffolding made from boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). IN longitudinal direction It is allowed to lay boards longer than 200 cm. They are assembled into one flooring (without gaps) and are reinforced against deflection with transverse bars. The latter are mounted at the bottom of the boards.

A U-shaped metal profile is mounted at the ends of the flooring. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the last one with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of the boards shifting.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes is used repeatedly. They can be easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To extend their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:

• all scaffolding elements are thoroughly sanded;
• metal surfaces are dust free;
• the pipes are primed.

After the soil has dried, painting is done. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint to the board flooring, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.