How to properly insulate the walls from the outside? Today we are interested in many. In the context of a constant increase in prices for heat transfer fluids and electricity, individual developers are faced with the acute problem of "2E" - how to economically and effectively save heat in a private house, and, therefore, to insulate their house.

The better to insulate the house from the outside, what is the best way to insulate the house - we will try to answer these questions.

A lot of professional research has been devoted to the problem of choosing external or internal wall insulation. The issue was resolved in favor of wall insulation from the outside, as more technological. Of all the pros and cons of internal insulation, two cons outweigh the other pros:

1. A significant part of the living space is lost.
2. A mechanical ventilation or air conditioning device is required, you just can't weather the condensate with a window.
3. Having chosen the insulation of the walls, we proceed to the choice of insulation.

The choice of insulation

Insulation of a house outside in individual housing construction is most often performed with 3 types of insulation:

• Mineral.
• Organic slab.
• Organic liquid foaming agents.

Mineral heaters based on natural materials of stone, basalt, mineral glass wool, slag, flax fires have excellent thermal insulation properties and are fireproof (N / G).

Organic heaters - polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam - surpass mineral ones in terms of thermal conductivity, do not support combustion, but according to the fire hazard group they belong to combustible materials (G4), they are afraid of light.

Foamy insulation polyurethane foam has the advantages of the two previous types, but it has two significant disadvantages: high price and complexity in work, you will need professional equipment to complete it.

It is easy to choose how to insulate the house from the outside by comparing the main indicators of materials:

1. Volume weight.
2. Thermal conductivity.
3. Fire safety.
4. Steam permeability.
5. Hygroscopicity.
6. Weather resistance.
7. Sound permeability.
8. Environmental friendliness.
9. Durability.
10. Profitability.

These indicators are as follows:

When comparing heaters, one must also bear in mind that mineral wool heaters, despite their excellent qualities and environmental safety, have significant drawbacks: working with them requires caution because of fine dust, which, once it gets into the lungs, can lead to serious diseases. A special protective suit, goggles, gloves are also required.

To summarize: when choosing insulation for the walls of the house outside, for independent work it is better to dwell on expanded polystyrene, as the safest, most effective and economical option.

Having chosen how to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, we move on to solving the question: how to insulate the house from the outside.

Various insulation systems

There are three systems for insulating walls from the outside:

1. Ventilated facade.
2. Plastering system with slab insulation.
3. Plastering system with foam insulation.

The most difficult third option for insulation with liquid polyurethane foam should not be considered for independent implementation, it requires the involvement of professionals.

To insulate the walls of the house from the outside with expanded polystyrene or mineral wool insulation, both first options are suitable.

Ventilation facade system

The system is suitable for performing external wall insulation on all types of enclosing structures. A characteristic feature is the implementation of a curtain facade on the departure from the layer of insulating material with the formation of a ventilated space. Fastening of the curtain wall is carried out on metal profiles (for heavy materials - porcelain stoneware, glass, composite) or on a wooden frame (for siding, wall paneling, planks).

The system is good in that it almost completely eliminates wet processes, therefore, it has fewer restrictions on the air temperature during execution.

Plastering system

The plastering system is more suitable for external insulation of walls made of bricks or lightweight concrete blocks. Temperature limits (not less than minus 5 ° C) during execution are associated with the use of adhesives and plaster compositions from dry building mixtures.

Common to all insulation systems is the stage of preparation of the facade surface for insulation. The final result depends on the quality of preparation by 70%.

Facade preparation

Facade preparation of an existing home consists of surface cleaning, leveling and priming.

Existing paint is washed off, paying particular attention to oil and lime stains and efflorescence.

The plastered walls are checked for adhesion of the finish to the base by tapping with a mallet. A weakly adhering layer of plaster must be knocked down, the surfaces must be treated with soil that strengthens and plastered again.

Check evenness with a plumb line and level. Irregularities more than 3 cm require additional leveling.

Before insulation, the walls of a wooden house, in addition to leveling, require impregnation with a fire retardant, fungicide and antiseptic. The protruding crowns are cut down to the thickness of the insulation, since it is technically difficult and not advisable to bypass them with a frame or insulation. All the cracks between the crowns are re-drilled.

The leveled base is impregnated with an adhesion-promoting primer and allowed to dry well.

Insulation from the outside according to the ventilation facade system

Insulation of a private house from the outside is carried out at an outside air temperature of up to plus 5 ° C using glue from CCC, or up to minus 10 ° C with Ceresit CT 84 foam glue.

Material for wall insulation outside:

1. Thermal insulation.
2. CCC glue or foam glue.
3. Wooden beams made of boards 40 mm wide, corresponding to the thickness of the insulation according to the calculation.
4. Wooden beam with a section of 40x40 mm.
5. Moisture-windproof bar or superdiffusion membrane.
6. Cladding material, including cover strips and extensions.
7. A starting bar equal to the length of the perimeter of the house minus doorways.
8. Dowel-nails or dowel-screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (fungus).
9. Stapler.
10. Self-tapping screws.
11. Moisture-windproof film or superdiffusion membrane and special tape for gluing fabrics.

House insulation scheme from masonry material

For a high-quality performance of insulation, it will be correct to draw in advance a diagram of the facade with all openings, on which the layout of the frame elements is applied, if necessary, a drawing of the cladding. According to the scheme, it is easier to determine the need for materials.

Work begins with marking on the facade of the location of the starting bar and frame guides. According to the marking, first the starting bar is attached, the width of which must correspond to the thickness of the insulation, it serves as a support for the insulation and protects it from rodents. Further, the frame guides are fixed with a distance between the beams equal to the width of the heat insulator plate ̶ 5 mm.

The insulation plate is greased with glue around the perimeter, stepping back from the edge of 1.5–2 cm, and making separate marks in the center. The plate is inserted into the cell of the frame and pressed against the surface, tapping with a mallet.

ATTENTION: The adhesive must not come into contact with the end of the board, this will cause the formation of a cold bridge.

After the glue has dried (2-3 days for glue made from dry mixes or 2-3 hours for foam glue), the plates can be fixed with dowels, at least 6 per 1 m2.

Then the moisture protection is attached: the material is rolled out along the facade, fixing it with a stapler to the guides and insulation. The canvases are fastened with an overlap of 15 cm, insulating with a special double-sided tape.

Bars of counter-lattice are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws, due to which a ventilation gap is formed.

The last stage is the installation of a curtain wall, cover strips, ebbs and soffits.

Wood house insulation scheme

When insulating the walls of the house from outside of wood, repeat similar processes, but to prevent the formation of condensation on the tree, work begins with the implementation of vapor barrier.

ATTENTION: It is impossible to use polyethylene film as a vapor barrier material - it has a short service life and low quality.

External insulation by plastering system

External insulation with a finishing plastering is suitable for private houses made of masonry materials - bricks or blocks. To insulate the walls from the outside under the plaster, you can use both expanded polystyrene and mineral wool slabs. The temperature range of work depends on the choice of adhesive: plus 5 ° C when using CCC glue or up to minus 10 ° C when using Ceresit CT 84 foam glue.

For work you will need materials:

• Starting bar.
• Thermal insulation.
• An adhesive composition of CCC for gluing insulation and installing a reinforcing alkali-resistant mesh.
• Alkali-resistant mesh with cells no more than 5x5 mm.
• Final finishing.

IMPORTANT: When buying materials, do not forget about the insulation of the slopes!

Wall insulation scheme according to the plaster system

Insulation can be conditionally divided into several stages:

• Fastening the plinth strip.
• Temporary fixing of the insulation board with glue.
• Dowelling.
• Trimming of corner slabs, fastening of protective corners.
• First layer of plaster, installation of alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh.
• The second layer of plaster and mesh to a height of 2 m.
• Installation of ebbs and aprons.
• Finishing finish.

The starting bar is fixed 2 cm below the level of the junction between the foundation and the wall, the dowel - with screws every 300 mm, in the corners of the bar they are cut at 45 ° or overlapped. The width of the plank should correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

The insulation is fastened apart, the coincidence of the vertical seams is unacceptable. The adhesive is applied to the tile along the perimeter, retreating 1.5-2 cm from the edge, in the center of the slab with marks at a distance of 30 cm. Seams are allowed 3 mm, wider ones are filled with the remnants of insulation or polyurethane foam. The plate is put in place, the position can be corrected within 30 mm. Plates are mounted in rows from bottom to top. Insulate the slopes of the openings.

After 2-3 days, the insulation is finally fixed with screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (umbrella or fungus), 5-6 pcs. for 1m2. The dowel head is lightly pressed into the surface of the insulation slab.

The corner projections of the slabs are cut off, the corners are protected with strips, strips of reinforcing mesh are glued in the corners of the openings along the facade at an angle of 45 °, the corners inside the opening are protected with special plastic corners.

A reinforcing mesh is rolled out on the surface of the insulation, coated with adhesive with a layer of 3-4 mm thick. The mesh is embedded with a flat spatula into the glue layer. After the first layer has dried, the second layer of the reinforcing mesh is mounted to a height of 2 m. After the layer has dried, the final finishing is carried out: painting with a vapor-permeable paint based on acrylic resin, silicone or decorative plaster.

Summarizing

If, after reading this article, you wanted to insulate the facade with your own hands, our goal has been half achieved. If you insulated your house in accordance with our recommendations and live there happily in comfort and coziness - we can rejoice for you and us: the goal has been achieved!

This question is of most interest to people living in their own home. Residents of cities rarely resort to external insulation of the walls of their apartments, since this is associated with high costs, including the services of industrial climbers. However, many have in their property some kind of buildings in which it is necessary to create good conditions, including temperature ones. For example, a country house, a garage, a bathhouse.

Not everyone understands that insulation allows you not only to create a comfortable microclimate in a particular building. External insulation of any structure also gives a purely economic effect. Firstly, there is no need for frequent switching on of elements of additional heating of premises. After all, electric heating devices are mainly used for this. Consequently, the cost of energy has to be paid even more than usual. Secondly, the lower temperature in the structure (and if the humidity is also appropriate) favors the fungus. And this is decay or damage to walls, ceilings, things. And again - money "out of pocket": for repairs, for the purchase of a new thing.

The outside of the house is insulated with various materials. But when choosing "insulation" you need to be guided by what, first of all, the walls of the house are made of. Indeed, for each building material (in particular, insulation), its own installation technology is provided. It may turn out that it will be possible to insulate a particular house with the chosen material, but this will require a lot of additional work. This means that there will be a loss of time and again all the same money. Therefore, the choice must be optimal. Let's dwell on some heaters and consider the features of their installation.

Methods for exterior insulation of a house using various materials

You need to understand that external thermal insulation is the most effective. It does not reduce the "cubic capacity" of the premises, does not accumulate moisture in the rooms, therefore, the walls do not "sweat". Thermal insulation of walls requires special attention. Experts say that up to 30% of the heat "leaves" through them. So, we begin to insulate with various materials.

Foam insulation

One of the most popular, lightweight and cheap insulation materials. To work with it, no special devices or technologies are required. However, you need to consider what belongs to the category of combustible building materials. The order of work will be as follows:

1. preparation of wall surfaces. It is necessary to achieve its careful alignment. Polyfoam is available in plate format. If such a plate is applied to an uneven surface, then voids are formed. Firstly, with mechanical stress on this place, the foam will simply burst. Secondly, any isolated space is a potential accumulation of moisture, various insects, etc .;
2. as part of the preparation, the subsequent priming of the surface. If there are residues of whitewash on the wall, for example, then the glue that will hold the foam will simply not "grab" the wall. Therefore, you need to wash it well and prime it;
3. the next stage is the installation of the ebb (external). They must be leveled horizontally using a level so that later you do not have to cut the foam plate;
4. Before laying the slabs, the base must be installed. It is also called the "starting bar". It will not allow the slab to slide down, and it will be much easier to keep the line.

Laying foam plates begins from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row also depends on how the bottom plate is correctly positioned. Plates are "planted" with glue. Professionals recommend three days after the sticker to additionally fix them on the nails (if the wall material allows this).

If a house from a bar is insulated with foam, then all holes and cracks must be carefully repaired. Any material will do: mineral or ecowool, polyurethane foam or something else. The main thing is to eliminate air circulation, drafts.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation:

We insulate with mineral wool

This material has several names, and most often it is called short -. There are also names for glass wool, stone wool, mineral wool insulation. This material is based on fiberglass. On sale there are special slabs made of this material, which "sheathed" the outer walls. For fastening such plates, special fittings are used. Stone wool "linrok" is especially popular. Walls, roofs, attics are insulated with it. This material, unlike foam, is flexible, so its installation does not require such careful surface preparation.

Warming with polystyrene (penoplex)

As a rule, basements, cellars, foundations, walls are most often insulated with them. This material is one of the best in the protection of buildings from the effects of groundwater. For external insulation, polystyrene plates and special plaster, which includes this material, are used. It must be borne in mind that several brands are produced. For home use "31" and "35". Warming is carried out in several stages.

• slabs are glued to the wall using a plaster mixture;
• from above the slabs are covered again with one layer of the same mixture. This layer is needed for additional protection of the insulation material;
• an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is applied on top;
• the entire surface is primed;
• the last layer is at the choice of the owner. You can just paint, plaster. Can be covered with some kind of decorative material. This is already a matter of taste.

Features of the insulation of wooden houses

It should be borne in mind that any tree, whatever species it may be, evaporates moisture. In such cases, it is said that it "breathes". It is for this reason that when insulating wooden buildings outside, you need to think about creating good ventilation of the walls. Experts recommend using glass wool or basalt wool as insulation. It's almost the same thing, the only difference is in the price. Glass wool will be cheaper.

Before installing the insulation, it is recommended to replace the wooden window frames with plastic ones. Installation begins after the installation of the frame. It is assembled from wooden battens installed vertically (like a lathing). The distance between the slats is chosen to be equal to the width of the insulating material slab. Special plastic dowels are used to fix the slabs to the slats.

First, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater. After installing the insulation layer, a special film (windproof) is attached on top. Its purpose is to "release" moisture from the wall, but not to let it outside. At the last stage, you can lay a layer, clad the walls with siding.

Before opting for any particular insulation, it is still better to consult with a specialist. After all, there cannot be a single recommendation for everyone. In addition to those features that have already been mentioned, other factors must be taken into account. For example, the climatic conditions in the region of residence. This includes humidity with its differences, and the maximum and minimum ambient temperatures.

It is also necessary to take into account how the selected material reacts to aggressive chemicals, to exposure to sunlight and the possibility of emitting harmful substances, etc. Therefore, the cost of the material should not be decisive, although it does matter.

Unfortunately, quite often there are situations when the walls of the house are not effective enough or at all do not cope with the task of keeping heat inside the room assigned to them. Insulating the walls of the house from the outside will help to solve this problem. The insulation layer will thus become the missing barrier between the cold outside air and the internal microclimate of the house. At the same time, the main wall of the building will be additionally protected from moisture and sunlight, which will have a positive effect on its service life.

Popular insulation options

There are several options for how to organize external wall insulation:

1. fastening the heat insulator to the wall using an adhesive solution and plastering;
2. three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with mortar and, observing the air gap, the outer wall is mounted in one brick;
3. ventilated facade. The wall is protected by waterproofing, on top of which insulation is reinforced, then a windscreen is mounted and an external sheathing made of lining or any other siding is installed on the frame.

Each option has its own nuances in performance. Also on sale there are combined insulation materials or modified ones, for the use of which you should adhere to your own technology. The technology of house insulation, such as a ventilated facade, makes it possible to carry out work even in winter due to the absence of the need to use adhesive solutions.

Examples of wood wall insulation:

Examples of wall insulation made of brick and concrete:

Features of the choice of material for insulation

Whichever material is chosen for thermal insulation, it will cope with its main task, however, there are a number of features of each of them and a difference in price that must be taken into account. You have to choose from:

• (foam), EPS (extruded polystyrene foam);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose insulation.

The main differences are moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters are selected taking into account climatic conditions and a suitable installation method to ensure reliable protection of the walls from dampness. Thermal conductivity is important when calculating the required thickness of insulation to achieve the desired effect.

It is with the calculation of the required thickness of the insulator that you should start. To do this, you must use the instructions of SNiP, GOST and SP, or contact the design organization to carry out the correct calculations. This takes into account all possible heat losses of the house through external walls, window openings, ceilings and roofs, foundations, etc. Only on the basis of the data obtained, taking into account the power of the heating system used, a decision is made on the choice of the thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material for each type. After that, you can already make a choice and start insulating the walls with your own hands. It is important to take into account the available standard sizes of materials and the number of layers required. For example, it is not at all necessary to stop at the choice of foam concrete, if, according to calculations, it is required to lay it in two, or even in three layers, it is better to choose mineral wool or polyurethane foam several times less thick.

The stage of preparing the wall for insulation

Having finished with the choice of materials, you can proceed to the main work on the insulation of the house. The first step is to prepare the surface for further work. If necessary, remove the old layer of plaster or insulator down to the base. As a result, a flat surface of a brick, block or wooden wall should remain.

Due consideration should be given to priming the surface. If there are significant differences in levels on the wall, that is, depressions or protrusions over 1-2 cm, then they should be repaired with mortar or combed out to an acceptable level. A deep penetration primer is best used. Before priming, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt.

In order for the insulation layer to turn out even and not interfere with the subsequent stages of erection of the outer wall of facing bricks or plastering, a system of beacons and plumb lines should be mounted in advance. They will determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which will facilitate installation.

A strong thread is tied onto the anchors or screws fixed along the upper edge of the wall and lowered with plumb lines to the very bottom. Horizontal threads are also tied between them. The result is a control grid, along which you can navigate when installing a heat insulator or frame.

After that, you can proceed to the next steps, which are slightly different for each type of material.

Insulation works: expanded polystyrene, EPS

A special corner shelf is installed at the bottom of the wall to level the first layer of foam sheets. The material is fixed using special adhesive solutions. Next, the sheets are applied and pressed against the wall. The correctness and evenness of the installation is controlled by a plumb line and level.

The next layer of foam should be installed after the previous one has set. In this case, it is desirable to shift the sheets by half relative to the previous layer. The sheets are fixed with special anchoring "mushrooms" at the four corners and in the center. By shifting the rows, the corner anchor of each sheet will also hold the middle of the lower or upper. At the corners of the building and in places around the window openings, the foam is fixed with metal corners. All joints between the sheets should be glued with reinforcing plaster tape.

A reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of a layer of expanded polystyrene or EPSP and plastering is performed. It is best to use expanded polystyrene to insulate brick walls or monolithic concrete. In this case, a significant disadvantage is only the low vapor permeability of the material, which can interfere with the normal removal of moisture and condensate from the wall. A prerequisite before using expanded polystyrene is high-quality drying of the walls. Otherwise, it is better to use partially ventilated or ventilated facades. In this case, moisture will not linger on the surface of the main walls and spoil their mechanical properties.

Ultimately, after the complete completion of the work, there should be no gaps or open places with access to the foam. This is necessary to protect the material from damage by rodents.

Insulation works: mineral wool

Methods for mounting thermal insulation using mineral wool are similar to the options for using cellulose insulation and basalt slabs.

In order for the sheets and mats of mineral wool to be reliably held, a frame system and a lathing made of wooden beams are mounted on the wall. The width of the lathing should be less than a sheet of mineral wool by 2-3 cm. In this case, it will fit tightly between the beams without gaps. In addition to the lathing, anchors are installed on which sheets of material will be put on. With an uneven wall, a two-layer mineral wool is best suited, in which the layers differ in density. The soft layer is directed to the wall, which ensures a reliable adhesion to the wall.

In terms of external cladding, mineral wool is the most versatile. Many of its types allow for plastering using a reinforcing mesh. In addition, you can fix the insulation with an external horizontal crate, under which a wind protection in the form of a dense polyethylene film is laid, and use various types of cladding: brick wall, clapboard or other siding. This results in a ventilated three-layer insulation that is suitable for most types of climate. This is how the walls of a wooden house should be insulated so that the wood can breathe and not accumulate moisture.

Insulation works: polyurethane foam

The use of polyurethane foam is similar to the principle of installation of mineral wool, when a frame structure with an external wind protection is being erected. A solution of polyurethane foam is poured directly into the frame between the wall and the film. The adhesion to the wall is maximized, which provides the best thermal insulation value. However, in modern construction, polyurethane foam is more widely used in the insulation of attics and roof slopes. This is argued by the fact that it is more difficult to form a layer of insulation on vertical surfaces, because initially it is a foamed liquid.

Video: instructions for insulating walls outside with your own hands

The problem of heat loss in private residential buildings has always existed. Somewhere heat is uselessly escaping through the roof, in other houses it is spent through the foundation. However, the bulk is consumed through wall structures.

To this day, the actual question for homeowners is how to avoid unnecessary waste of heat energy? Therefore, we will try to figure out how to insulate the house, which material will better cope with the tasks.

Choosing thermal insulation

After the construction of the frame of the building and the laying of the walls, an extremely important stage begins - the insulation of housing. By choosing the most effective thermal insulation material, you can create the maximum barrier to useless heat transfer.

Currently, common insulation materials on the Russian market are: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, glass wool, expanded clay, ecowool. Let's consider the features of each heat insulator in more detail.

An extremely popular material that has been successfully used as insulation for many decades.

The advantages of mineral wool are:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity in the range - from 0.041 to 0.044 W / m3;
• a good indicator of compression density - up to 200 kg / m3;
• high fire safety - withstands exposure to elevated temperatures up to 1000 ° C;
• excellent soundproofing.

Despite the obvious advantages, the material has a significant drawback - the ability to absorb moisture. Therefore, it is impossible to do without laying an external waterproofing layer during its installation.

In addition, mineral wool is unlikely to be the best option for insulating walls from the inside, since it takes up too much useful volume.

The material is in great demand in the domestic market along with the previous insulation, mainly due to its increased resistance to moisture. The thermal conductivity coefficient of foam is an order of magnitude lower than that of mineral wool. However, the compression density suffers somewhat. The material is not very effective against mechanical stress. Therefore, polystyrene foam boards are easy to damage.

The density index of the foam is in the range from 11 to 35 kg / m3, depending on the brand. The compressive strength of the slabs is 0.05-0.16 MPa. The same bending quality of the material is equal to 0.07-0.25 MPa. Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.033-0.037 W / m3.

Advantages:

• does not need protection with moisture-repellent coatings;
• has a low weight;
• acts as an effective heat and sound insulator;
• is one of the most affordable, relatively inexpensive solutions.

Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the presence of the danger of material ignition with the release of caustic, toxic smoke, harm to health during operation at elevated temperatures.

In the past, the material was the most common basis for home insulation. However, the reason for the popularization of insulation was not so much in its characteristics, but in the absence of more effective insulation.

Manufactured from molten glass fibers. Hence the name of the material. It has decent thermal insulation qualities, which are only slightly inferior to mineral wool. Thermal conductivity ranges from 0.03 to 0.052 W / m3. Resistance to high temperatures reaches 450 ° C.

The advantage of this solution is the absence of toxic fumes during fires. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of installation, significant shrinkage and increased hygroscopicity.

Belongs to the category of innovative cellulose-based insulation. Suitable for both outside. However, for laying the material, a special unit is required, which combines the substance with water, forming an insulating mass of the desired consistency. The dry method of insulation does not allow the coatings to be insulated tightly.

Material qualities:

• specific gravity - 25-75 kg / m3;
• thermal conductivity - 0.037-0.042 W / m3;
• the ability to accumulate moisture and its rapid evaporation without loss of insulating properties;
• effective absorption of sound waves;
• fire and environmental safety.

It consists of the smallest wood fibers, so it does not hide potential harm to health. As practice shows, the heat insulator does not emit toxic substances, prevents the development of mold and does not exude unpleasant odors.

The only drawback of the insulation can be considered the need to use specialized equipment.

In fact, the material is an insulating board, the structure of which is formed by small plastic granules. To obtain a sheet of extruded insulation, the blowing agent is mixed with the granular particles under high pressure and temperature. Colored or transparent slabs are the result of manufacturing.

Properties:

• practical complete absence of moisture absorption;
• the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity in comparison with any other common heat insulators;
• ability to transmit light;
• frost resistance;
• lack of tendency to decay, mold development;
• the highest indices of compressive strength;
• It is considered an ideal option both for thermal insulation of buildings, both from the inside and for performing external work.

If we talk about the shortcomings of a heat insulator, then, just like ordinary foam plastic, the material suffers somewhat from fragility. Therefore, its installation and operation needs careful attitude.

It is a loose insulation. Possesses worthy indicators of thermal conductivity and vapor barrier. It is more often used for insulating floor coverings. Although ideal for wall insulation with ring masonry.

Expanded clay is characterized by moisture absorption at the level of about 8-20%. Due to the presence of a substantial proportion of clay in the composition, it is distinguished by increased sound insulation. It has high indicators of frost resistance. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.10-0.18 W / m3, which indicates decent thermal insulation qualities of the material.

The disadvantages of expanded clay include the tendency to dust formation, which complicates installation work, and the significant weight of the heat-insulating layer.

How slowly the insulation absorbs moisture, so long it is released from it later. Therefore, when laying expanded clay, it is necessary to foresee in advance the options for its steam and moisture protection.

The choice of insulation directly depends on the method of work. There are several ways of external thermal insulation of housing:

• ventilated facade systems;
• laying insulation under plaster.

The technology for creating ventilation facades involves the installation of insulation directly on the outer surface of the walls with its insulation with an airtight membrane. At a distance of 2-4 cm from the outer membrane, cladding in the form of siding, drywall, etc. is attached.

Material

The use of foam in this case becomes unacceptable, since in the presence of a ventilated space, the likelihood of material ignition increases. The advantage of the insulation method is the possibility of laying inexpensive insulators in the form of mineral wool or glass wool, since here the heat insulator does not bear the load of the outer layer.

As for the insulation under the plaster, for this, insulation is laid on the surface of the wall. The insulator is fixed with dowels or glued to a special mixture. Decorative plaster or primer is applied on top.

The insulation method involves the creation of a three-layer structure, when the selected heat insulator is placed between the wall from the inside and the outer cladding. The inner wall is connected to the outer embedded anchors. The most common insulation materials here are polystyrene and mineral wool.

This method of thermal insulation at home is one of the most effective. However, its main disadvantage is the ability to perform work only in the process of housing construction.

Thermal insulation from the inside of the building is less preferred. Since in this case there is a shift of the "dew point" towards the insulation, which leads to its getting wet. In addition, with this method of isolation, the area of ​​the rooms is noticeably reduced.

However, there are times when the creation of an external heat-insulating wall covering is impossible. For example, when the wall of a neighboring house is adjacent or the facade of a building is of cultural value. Therefore, insulation from the inside also has a right to exist.

What to choose?

If the inner plane of the walls is plastered, mineral wool, ecowool, or low-flammability foam can act as insulation. Before insulation, it is worthwhile to once again calculate the likelihood of exposure to the insulator of an abundance of moisture. With this method of insulation, condensate quickly destroys the insulation, its effectiveness decreases and the likelihood of fungus is high.

Eventually

What is the best way to insulate a house? The widest choice of heat-insulating materials for home insulation often leads to complete bewilderment for homeowners who dream of living in the most comfortable conditions. Some people prefer glass wool, which has been tried and tested over time. Others rely exclusively on cutting-edge technology.

Based on the useful properties of common materials, it is rational to use them in competent combinations. So, the most economical and at the same time quite effective solution for warming the walls of a house will be a combination of the qualities of mineral wool, expanded clay, glass wool and foam. It is better to isolate hard-to-reach places with ecowool, densely filling any irregularities with the composition.

Polystyrene foam boards are recommended for use in the most humid climates. The material retains its properties for decades under conditions of intense exposure to environmental factors. The components of the heat insulator do not react with chemical atmospheric reagents, which becomes an indispensable quality when insulating houses located in industrial regions.

Nowadays, it is no longer necessary to convince any of the owners of private houses how important it is to insulate the walls from the outside. And it is best to insulate the walls of houses during construction, when access to all structures from all sides is open. Then you can arrange thermal insulation in the most correct way - from the outside, and from the very foundation and basement to the roof of the building.

But, given how much it costs to carry out these works, many homeowners insulate their homes on their own in order to save money, because in reality the process technology is not so complicated. The purpose of this article is to tell you about the best way to sheathe the walls and how you can correctly make the external insulation of the house with your own hands.

The choice of insulation

The list of heat-insulating materials used as external cladding of the enclosing structures of private houses cannot be called long. And if you also take into account the cost of these materials and choose the cheaper it is to produce insulation, then the list is completely reduced to several items:

• mineral wool (stone, basalt) in slabs and rolls;
• fiberglass-based mineral wool in rolls;
• foamed polystyrene plates (polystyrene);
• plates from extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

Note. Here are the most popular and inexpensive materials used for wall insulation outside. In addition to them, there is also ecowool, made from waste paper, and sprayed polyurethane foam. But these are more expensive heaters, besides, it will not work to apply polyurethane foam on your own, for this you need special units.

From the point of view of fire safety and rodent resistance, the best option is wall insulation with mineral wool based on basalt fiber. The material does not burn at all and calmly withstands temperatures up to 600 ° C, which is why it is also used for insulating various chimneys, both brick and metal. Mice do not like mineral wool, unlike ecowool and foam, and therefore the owner of a country house in the countryside can be calm about the safety of the insulation.

For reference. It is for these reasons that the technology of thermal insulation with mineral wool is provided in frame houses, since it is part of the outer wall, as shown in the diagram:

The thermal insulation performance of basalt wool is quite high, although slightly worse than that of foamed polymers. But this is not the main problem of this material, its primary enemy is moisture. Due to open pores, any mineral wool has a high vapor permeability, which means that it needs protection from moisture and good ventilation to remove steam.


Roll glass wool has the same qualities, except for fire resistance. Its temperature limit is only 200 ° C, so glass wool cannot withstand a fire. By the way, roll materials are not the best choice for outdoor insulation of a house, since it tends to slide down and get lost as it gets wet. Of course, over time, the moisture goes away, but the insulation will not return to the design position and whole non-insulated glades will appear under the finish, not visible to the eye.

About foamed polymers

The cheapest material that is used to insulate a house from the outside is polystyrene, which is also the most popular. It has a higher thermal resistance than cotton wool and almost does not allow moisture to pass through, while being very light in weight. This is understandable, because the polymer consists of closed pores filled with air. Its serious drawback is flammability, which should be taken into account when taking on the thermal insulation of walls.

Often there is a question on the Internet - is it possible to insulate residential buildings, including wooden ones, with foam plastic? We will present the answer using the example of panel houses assembled from multilayer elements - thermobeam and SIP - panels. In these elements, the foam insulation layer is part of the outer wall, only on both sides it is protected by wood or OSB plywood cladding, as shown in the photo below. That is, it is possible to insulate the facade, including a panel house, with this polymer, especially from the outside, only this must be done wisely.

Regarding the question of what kind of foam it is better to sheathe the enclosing structures of a residential building or summer cottage. The most "popular" material has a density of 25 kg / m3, it is quite warm and durable at the same time. There is also polystyrene with a density of 15 and 35 kg / m3, but the first is rarely used due to fragility, and the second because of its high cost. True, high density is needed when the structure is subjected to mechanical stress, for example, during thermal insulation of floors.

The "fellow" of foam - extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) absolutely does not allow moisture to pass through, and it resists the penetration of heat more successfully. Therefore, to insulate the same stone house, a layer of foam is required less than the materials listed earlier. Foam polystyrene, like mineral wool, is not to the taste of rodents, while mice like to make nests in unprotected foam insulation. Like any polymer, the "extruder" is flammable, and therefore needs protection from high temperatures.

Calculation of the thickness of insulation

Ideally, the thickness should be taken by calculation, depending on what materials the enclosing structures are built from and the region of residence. If we take the same region, then the thickness of thermal insulation for concrete or cinder block walls will be greater, and for a house made of aerated concrete or foam blocks - less. That is, a lot depends on what kind of thermal insulation properties the material of the block house has.

Advice. To make the outer insulation correctly, you need to work hard and find the thermal conductivity coefficient of your building materials in the reference books or the Internet and calculate the thickness of the insulation.

A fairly accurate calculation can be performed on the basis of the data in the table, reflecting the regulatory requirements for the thermal resistance of walls in different regions of the Russian Federation. For example, knowing that in Kazan this resistance R should be 3.3 m2 · ° C / W, it is necessary to calculate how much an ordinary brick wall of 250 mm will give and then add the required thickness of thermal insulation. The resistance of a brick wall is 0.187 m2 ° C / W (following table), subtracting this number from the total figure: 3.3 - 0.187 = 3.113 m2 ° C / W.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of the foam is λ = 0.037 W / m2 ° C (reference data), we substitute it in the formula for determining the thickness together with the required resistance to heat transfer:
δ = R x λ = 3.113 х 0.037 = 0.115 m

It turns out that in Kazan, at least 115 mm of foam must be added to a regular wall of 1 brick for minimal thermal insulation, and for a good one - 150 mm. This technique calculates the thickness of the insulation in any house made of logs, blocks or beams in combination with any heat-insulating material.

External insulation of the walls of a brick house

For capital residential buildings with brick, stone or concrete walls, there are two generally accepted methods of external insulation:

• the technology associated with wet processes involves the use of building mixtures and decorative plasters;
• mechanical fastening of the material to the facade is done for siding, block house or other types of finishes.

"Wet" insulation of a brick house in execution is more complicated, as it requires some skills, so not everyone can do it with their own hands. In this case, both foam and mineral wool are used, only the adhesive mixture for them is also different. Well-known manufacturers, such as CERESIT, sell complete sets of insulation and finishing materials for thermal insulation of facades in one way or another.

The essence of the technique is as follows. On cleaned and leveled surfaces, a layer of deep penetration primer is first applied, and after it dries, a slab insulation is glued, roll insulation will not work here. Since the slopes of the plastic windows of the house also need to be insulated, insulating material is glued to them, the thickness of which is half the wall layer. After 2 days, the insulation is mechanically fixed using special dowel-umbrellas.

Note. For panel apartment buildings and large cottages with balconies, the technology is retained under one condition. The balcony parapet must be solid so that insulating boards can be glued to it. Otherwise, the parapet will have to be built from foam - or gas blocks, or abandon this technique.

On all surfaces, including window slopes, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is applied simultaneously with a layer of adhesive mixture up to 5 mm thick. This layer is waterproofing, and after it is applied a decorative plaster layer with texture (bark beetle, shagreen, and so on). Only before that, the hardened glue is treated with a primer again. And the last step is painting, although it can be omitted, it is enough to add the necessary color to the plaster.

Wet insulation does not provide for any vapor barrier, leaving the thickness of the house wall permeable to steam. On the other hand, the outer layer of the adhesive mixture is waterproofing, protecting the insulation from direct ingress of water. The technology is applicable to the outer walls of the house and basement (only without decorative plaster); it will not work to insulate the attic or the roof in the same way. Isolation from the inside is more appropriate there.

The second method of insulation is used for both brick and wooden log and log houses, therefore it will be discussed in the next section. More information about the "wet" thermal insulation of residential buildings is described in the video:

External insulation of a wooden house from a bar

Before proceeding with the sheathing of a log house or a log house, you should carefully prepare the surface. This is especially true for old log walls, which need to be dug in order to close all the cracks. For obvious reasons, it is impossible to insulate a wooden house from the outside using a "wet" method, therefore a lathing made of timber is attached to the walls. Its width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The spacing between the beams is also selected depending on the width of the roll or insulation board.

For reference. Sometimes it happens that before insulating the outer structures of a log house, it is necessary to cut off the protruding crowns of logs in the corners of the house. Bypassing them with a system of rails and finishing is very problematic.

A vapor barrier is laid under the bars over the entire area of ​​the wall of the house - a dense plastic film. At the joints, the film is laid with an overlap of at least 100 mm, after which it is glued along the entire length with construction tape. Well, when the joint falls under the lathing beam, then it is additionally pressed against the surface.

At the next stage, insulation is laid between the rails and fixed in a convenient way, using the same dowel-umbrellas, only plastic ones. After that, the film is again stretched over the entire area, but not ordinary, but transmitting vapors. It is called a diffusion membrane and protects the thermal insulation from wind and direct water ingress (wind barrier). In this case, the water vapor formed in the insulation from the appearance of the dew point has the ability to escape through the membrane to the outside.

In order to ensure the removal of moisture from the outer part of the membrane, a duct is arranged between it and the lining - an air ventilated layer. To do this, the wind barrier film (membrane) is nailed to the lathing bars with strips 3-5 cm wide, and siding or block house is already attached to them. By the way, the walls of the attic are sheathed in this way, only inside. What the correct do-it-yourself insulation cake looks like is shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

The conclusion that suggests itself from all of the above is this: for external insulation of private houses, you should not use rolled mineral wool insulation and low density foam (below 25 kg / m3). The best option remains - mineral wool and polymers in slabs. As for the methods of thermal insulation, it is better to insulate capital stone buildings using the technology with the application of plaster, and leave the wooden crate for wooden houses, including summer cottages.