Asters are light-loving and cold-resistant; they are typical long-day plants with a long (up to 6 months) growing season and tolerate frosts down to -3°C. They bloom 3-4 months after sowing. The inflorescence is laid in the 4-6th leaf phase. Flowering of double inflorescences lasts up to 30 days, non-double ones fade faster. Flowering plants different varieties lasts from 40 to 50 days, some varieties more than 50 days. It grows well at an average daily summer temperature above 15 "C and a relative air humidity of 60-70%. Hot and dry weather negatively affects the development of asters: greening and germination of flowers in the inflorescence is observed, the fullness of the inflorescences is lost and the number of seeds set decreases. In dry weather, asters watering is required.

Soil preparation and fertilizers

Asters can grow on any soil, but prefer light and medium loamy, sandy loam, chernozem soils rich in organic matter with an acidity close to neutral (pH 6.5-7.5). The best predecessors for asters - perennial grasses or fallows. The site for growing asters is usually prepared in the fall. The soil is dug up, limed and fertilizers are applied: superphosphate (30 g/m2) and potassium fertilizers (20 r/m2). Nitrogen fertilizers (10 g/m5) are applied in the spring before pre-planting cultivation.

Soils with high acidity are limed. For this, ground limestone, dolomite flour, calcareous tuff or slaked lime are used. The rate of application of ground limestone, depending on the acidity of the soil, is 200-400 t/i7, slaked lime is 150-300 g/mg. When adding lime in the spring, it is thoroughly mixed with the soil.

Asters cannot tolerate manure humus and other fresh organic fertilizers - fertilizing with them leads to fusarium disease. Intensive growth of asters is promoted by fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers enhance the effect of nitrogen fertilizers on growth and flowering. Without nitrogen fertilizers and with their deficiency, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers improve the growth of asters only slightly. Nitrogen and potassium fertilizers should be used not only in the spring, but also during the growing season in the form of root and foliar fertilizers. Fertilizer application rates must be adjusted taking into account the composition of the soil and the content of soluble nutrients in it. The amount of fertilizer applied before planting asters and during feeding depends on weather conditions, as well as on the provision of moisture to the plants. Therefore, in rainy summers it is necessary to feed the plants more often.

In addition, asters do not tolerate excess water in the soil, and for planting they need to select areas with a slope to the south or southeast, having a permeable subsoil layer and a deep location of groundwater.

The predecessors of asters may be various plants, but you cannot plant them in the same areas as last year, because this increases the incidence of fusarium, which can cause the death of a large number of plants.

Asters are very demanding of light.

IN dry summer they need plenty of watering.

Sowing

For sowing, it is better to use fresh seeds from last year's harvest. They have good germination energy and the highest germination rate (50-80%). You can also sow old seeds, but their germination rate will be lower, which must be taken into account when setting the seeding rate. Before soaking in a solution or before sowing dry, seeds must be treated with bactericidal preparations.

The sowing rate of seeds with a germination rate of 50-80% is 5-7 g/m1 with row spacing of 3-4 cm. The germination rate of seeds increases if, before sowing, they are soaked for 15-18 hours in a solution of micro-fertilizers: boron, manganese, molybdenum , copper. Wetting improves the quality of inflorescences and increases their number when using asters for cutting. If you soak the seeds for a day (in a solution of the growth regulator epin (2 drops of the drug per 56 ml of water), seedlings appear on the second day. The most favorable temperature for seed germination is 18-20°C, and for normal growth of seedlings - 15-16°C. Mass shoots appear on the 4-7th day after sowing.Asters tolerate light spring and autumn frosts well (up to -4...-7° C).

The timing, methods and place of sowing depend on the conditions of the zone and the properties of the variety.

In open ground seeds are sown in autumn and spring. Pre-winter sowing is carried out at an average daily temperature of 2-4 ° C, so that the seeds do not grow before the onset of frost. Florists have noted that with autumn sowing, the incidence of plants with fusarium is significantly reduced. At the end of October, shortly before frost, seeds are sown in prepared beds, covered with garden soil, and the crops are mulched with peat, sawdust and other organic materials. In early or mid-April, depending on the weather, after the snow melts, the crops are opened and the mulch is removed. The shoots appear at the end of April already hardened. Aster is a cold-resistant crop, and plants are not afraid of frost. However, asters winter sowing the seeds do not ripen.

Aster is grown and seedling method. In January-February, the seeds are sown in boxes and placed under the snow until the spring sowing time. In March-April, the boxes are brought into a greenhouse or warm greenhouses with a temperature of 20 ° C. Shoots under these conditions appear within a week. When sowing in winter, seedlings become more hardened and resistant to blackleg pathogens. More often, however, seeds are sown in boxes in a greenhouse or in the soil of a rack from the beginning of March to the beginning of April, 45-60 days before planting in open ground

Flowering occurs 3.5-4 months after sowing and continues until severe frosts. A single inflorescence blooms for 20-40 days. The seeds ripen 35-40 days after the start of flowering (sooner in non-double forms). An indicator of seed ripeness is the appearance of a characteristic fluff on the surface of the basket. The seed yield from one aster plant is on average 2-2.5 g. There are 300-500 seeds in one gram. Their germination lasts 3 years.

Growing seedlings

Good seedlings should be healthy, hardened, have a short (6-10 cm), strong stem and 5-7 large bright green leaves. It is very difficult to grow beautiful bushes with normally developed inflorescences from elongated seedlings with pale green leaves. The quality of seedlings depends on the quality of the seeds and growing conditions. Depending on the length of the growing season, the variety and purpose of cultivating asters, seedlings can be grown in greenhouses, greenhouses, on steam and cold beds, temporarily covered plastic film. The period for sowing asters in various greenhouses and greenhouses is from March 15 to April 10. It depends on the length of the growing season and the purpose of the asters, as well as on the quality of greenhouses and spring weather conditions.

It is necessary to sow aster seeds on racks, in boxes or greenhouses in specially prepared soil (soil).

The soil mixture is prepared from turf soil, peat (humus) and sand (3:1:0.5 or 2:1:0.1). You can also use non-turf soil, but one taken from an area where asters have not grown for 5-6 years. Peat that is well rotted and has a pH of 6.5-7.5 is successfully used.

Before sowing, the soil is sifted through a screen (sieve), after which it is advisable to treat it with fungicides. The layer of soil on the rack should be 10-12 cm thick, in the box 8-10 cm and in the greenhouse 12-15 cm.

The treated soil is poured into boxes and covered with a 2 cm layer of clean sand on top to protect the seedlings from blackleg. Sand facilitates the emergence of seedlings and does not create a crust when watering during seedling growth. Before sowing, the surface of the sand is moistened using a watering can with a fine strainer. The seeding rate per box is 1.5-2 g of seeds. The sown seeds are covered with a layer of sand 0.3-0.5 cm and carefully moistened using a watering can with a strainer. With sufficient humidity and a temperature of 18-25 ° C, seedlings appear on the 3-7th day after sowing. At this time, the temperature is reduced to 5-7 ° C so that the seedlings do not stretch.

With the appearance of two true leaves, the seedlings dive into picking boxes or semi-warm greenhouses. With a feeding area of ​​7x7 cm, 35 pieces are placed in boxes, and 300-320 seedlings are placed under the greenhouse frame. You should not delay picking, as this can lead to the death of seedlings and poor plant survival.

The soil for picking asters should be loose and fertile. The most suitable mixture is 6-7 parts of peat (by volume), 2-3 parts of turf soil and 1 part of mullein. For 1 cu. m of such a mixture add 2-4 kg of superphosphate and 1-1.5 kg of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride. It is useful to include in the mixture 8-12 kg of wood ash, which contains various microelements that asters need. The mixture may have a different composition, but in any case it should be loose, nutritious, with a pH close to 7.

Caring for aster seedlings in greenhouses and greenhouses consists of timely watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, maintaining the required temperature, humidity, lighting and hardening before planting in open ground. Hardening plays an important role, since when planting seedlings in the ground, hardened plants get sick less, are not damaged by burns, and look healthy. Plants are hardened off by taking the boxes into greenhouses or opening the greenhouse for ventilation for several hours.

Planting care

On all types of soil, asters need fertilizing with fertilizers.

The first feeding is carried out 10-15 days after planting the seedlings, when the asters do not yet have a well-developed root system. At this time, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate are added to the soil at 30-40 r/m1, and potassium sulfate is added to the soil at 20-30 g/mg.

The second feeding should be carried out during the mass budding of asters. At this time, superphosphate and potassium fertilizers are added - 25-30 g/m3 and ammonium nitrate - 20-25 g/m3. If required, asters are fed at the beginning of flowering. In this phase, it is enough to add 10-20 g/m2 of potassium sulfate

From the moment the buds appear, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is stopped.

In dry summers, it is better to apply liquid fertilizing simultaneously with watering the plants. When applying fertilizers, you should be extremely careful, since fertilizers that fall on the leaves of asters, especially in hot weather, cause severe burns and spoil the decorative appearance of the plants.

When caring for asters, it is important to perform fine loosening of the soil between rows and in rows, hilling, watering and pest control. After weeds appear, as well as after watering or rain, when a crust forms, it is necessary to loosen the soil in the rows and between the rows.

The first loosening can be carried out immediately after planting asters, since the soil becomes compacted during planting, which leads to increased evaporation of moisture and reduced access of air in the soil, thereby worsening the rooting conditions for asters. But the last loosening should be done as late as possible. Its duration is determined by the branching of asters. In total, during the growth of the aster, two to four loosenings are required in the rows and between the rows.

When watering and rainy weather, with the appearance of a soil crust, you need to loosen more often. The depth of loosening is no more than 4-6 cm. Deep loosening increases the evaporation of water, damages the roots of asters located in top layer soil

How to feed asters after planting in the ground? Our flower garden It’s impossible to imagine without the beautiful aster. We use this plant with bright sparkling buds to decorate flower beds, ridges, and borders.

There are many varieties of asters, differing from each other in the color and shape of the inflorescence, height, level of resistance to disease and cold, and flowering time. Like every crop, aster has its own rules of agricultural technology, compliance with which will allow you to enjoy its blooming beauty every year without any problems.

What you will learn from this material:

Today we will tell you how to feed the aster after planting it in the ground.

When the asters are fed

Landed on fertile soil asters at good watering and periodic fertilizing they will bloom wonderfully until the coldest weather. For the first time, flowerbeds with asters are enriched with full mineral fertilizer two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the flowerbed, and during the period of bud formation and flowering, fertilizing without nitrogen fertilizers is used. Organic fertilizers are applied only on poor soils.

Fertilizing soil for planting aster in open ground

It is advisable to prepare the area for the flower garden in the fall. To begin with, they dig up the soil to a depth of a spade bayonet with the simultaneous addition of organic matter - compost (ripened) or mullein (necessarily rotted, since fresh manure farm animals buried under asters can provoke damage to flowers by fusarium).

Additionally, it is recommended to enrich the soil with mineral fertilizers at the rate of about 10 grams of superphosphate and 8 grams of potassium salt per square meter. landing Acidic soils need to be alkalized. To do this, in late autumn the soil is limed on the basis that 400 grams of carbonated lime fluff per square meter is incorporated. The meter increases the pH by 1.

Spring digging is carried out if the site was not prepared in the fall. At the same time, add garden compost (1/2 bucket per square meter), superphosphate and potassium magnesium (10 grams per square meter). Instead of potash fertilizers, it is allowed to use wood ash (200-400 g/sq. meter).

In other cases, the soil is loosened to a depth of 18 cm. Pre-sowing preparation soil is carried out a month before planting flowers in open ground. During this time, overwintered weed seeds germinate, which makes it possible to carry out high-quality weeding, loosening to a depth of about 6 cm and leveling the soil surface with a rake within the day of planting.

How to properly feed aster in open ground

How to feed asters after planting in the ground. If the soil contains enough humus, they are not necessary. Asters also do not tolerate manure, especially fresh manure. Therefore, it is better to feed with mineral fertilizers.

In the initial period, twice with nitrogen, in the budding phase - with complex (nitroammophoska, Kemira) and at the beginning of drying of the buds with phosphorus-potassium. Feeding asters can be divided into several stages. Each of them plays an important role. Let's look at them in detail.

First feeding of aster in open ground

The first feeding of asters is carried out immediately after rooting. If you see that the aster has taken root, there are no yellow leaves and new leaves are appearing, then you can apply the first fertilizing. A good first feeding is a solution of mullein, which is prepared in a ratio of 1:10 (take 10 parts for 1 part mullein).

The aster should be fertilized after watering. The soil should not be dry, otherwise you can burn the plants that have not yet matured. In order for the solution to be distributed evenly, the fertilizer should be mixed well in a bucket and applied in portions (with a ladle or other utensil with a handle).

Mullein supplies plants with a whole complex nutrients. Thanks to such feeding, asters become strong and stocky, which is the key to their active branching, the formation of a large number of buds and full flowering.

It is also good to fertilize the aster with ash. It contains many microelements that will have a positive effect on the development of flowers. On square meter You will need up to 300 grams of ash.

Second feeding of aster in open ground

The second feeding is carried out 14 days after planting the seedlings (if the seeds were sown, then after thinning them).

• potassium sulfate 10 g/m2;
• superphosphate 50 g/m2.

I scatter the granules over the surface. The amount of substances is calculated per 1 sq. m. if you sprinkle granules on dry soil, you should not expect a good effect. The soil is watered before applying fertilizer, and you will also need to loosen it a little.

If desired, all ingredients can be diluted in a bucket of water. This concentrate is watered on pre-moistened soil. Watering is carried out carefully so that the concentrate does not get on the flowers, but only on the soil.

Third feeding of asters

fish in open ground

When buds appear, give a third feeding. During this period, the plant takes a lot vitality. For feeding use:

• Mineral phosphorus fertilizer – 60 grams. The roots enlarge and grow, strong loaves are formed, and new shoots develop in large numbers.
• Potassium sulfate – 60 grams. Develops immunity in flowers. Makes them invulnerable to many diseases and pest attacks.

The number of components is calculated for 1 square. m.

Fourth feeding of aster in open ground

The fourth fertilizing is applied identically as in the third stage. It can also be scattered dry, or dissolved in a bucket. For ready-made fertilizers, you can go to a flower shop.

In the future, caring for asters comes down to watering and weeding. With proper care, the aster will delight you with its beauty for a long time. It can look great in a flower garden, in cut bouquets, or in decorations on balconies.

Since aster can be planted in a flower garden at any time, it can be planted next to faded early spring bulbous plants, since the aster has branched roots, it will protect the bulbous plants from overheating and weeds.

How to feed asters after planting in the ground video

The third feeding of cabbage is done on time

Substances consumed by roots from the ground are divided into macro- and microelements. What plants need most is:

Feeding white cabbage

It is also important to remember here that Fertilizing compounds should be used in a timely manner. For example, from the beginning of seed germination to the formation of foliage, the plant most of all needs phosphorus. And as soon as it begins to develop root system, should be sprayed with nitrogen and potassium. But at the time of ripening there is a need for nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus at the same time. Of course, caring for cabbage is a painstaking task.

Types of fertilizers for proper fertilization of seedlings

Important: if you decide to feed frequently, you should maintain an interval of fifteen days, alternating mineral solutions with organic ones.

This group includes the following drugs:

Natural fertilizers - an opportunity to feed and a remedy for pests



Yeast is fed three weeks after the first feeding composition is added. Per liter warm water dilute two hundred grams of dry yeast, a teaspoon of sugar, and leave for two hours. Then the whole mass is poured into a bucket of water. The consumption of the resulting composition should be from three hundred to four hundred grams per plant;

Yeast feeding

Urea, a popular source of nitrogen

How to treat cabbage before planting?

How to water after planting in open ground

When and what to feed

Whatever the fertile soil, the procedure for frequent planting different cultures significantly depletes it. As a result, harvest volumes are significantly reduced. Fertility can be restored if you systematically fertilize the soil. Some vegetables, e.g. Bell pepper, do not require the use of many fertilizers. Tomatoes, on the contrary, need significant feeding.

You need to fertilize the soil before planting tomato seedlings. For this, humus or various minerals are used. Fertilizing is extremely important now; if it is not done, then you need to fertilize the vegetables as the crop develops.

Root feeding

You can also feed plants with mullein by preparing an infusion from it in the ratio of half a liter of fertilizer per bucket of water. This solution is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. The prepared mixture is watered at the root of each bush.

Foliar feeding

Phosphorus fertilizers consist of phosphate and superphosphate with the addition of other elements: calcium, sulfur, nitrogen.



It is necessary to feed tomatoes with nitrogen very carefully, because if you exceed the dosage, you can make the open ground toxic. At the same time, the vegetable grows too quickly, and its fruits crack, change shape and taste.

Fertilizing tomatoes with urea should be done sparingly (normally half a liter per bush).

Complex fertilizer for tomatoes

Firstly, when fertilizing seedlings or “adult” plants, it is unacceptable to get fertilizer on the leaves, flowers or fruits of the vegetable. Can only be done in open ground around the bush.

After planting the seedlings, it is necessary to alternate the fertilizing procedure with watering. Minerals should be used only after watering vegetables.

Selecting soil, sowing aster for seedlings, care

All plants love to be cared for. Aster is no exception.

She is not picky, but if she chooses the right place with the right soil composition, and does not forget to water and feed her, then the flowering will be lush and long-lasting.

If the soil is acidic, liming should be done in late autumn, taking into account that adding 350-400 g of lime carbonate per 1 m2 increases the pH by 1.

Before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the area should be thoroughly weeded, leveled and loosened again to a depth of 4-6 cm.

— We grow seedlings. Asters in the Non-Black Earth Region are usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in a window in the second half of March, in a greenhouse - in April. For sowing, mix turf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.

Seedling boxes or pots are thoroughly spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water) and filled with soil. 1-2 days before sowing, it is spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate, or, in extreme cases, just boiling water. During sowing, the soil should not be wet, but only moist.



In the future, watering should be infrequent, but plentiful. The temperature when growing seedlings is maintained at 16-18°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. This temperature can be achieved by ventilating the room or greenhouse.

Plants are planted every 5-7 cm in a checkerboard pattern and watered. If the subcotyledonous knee of the seedlings is very elongated, then when picking they can be deepened almost to the cotyledon leaves.

7-10 days after picking, the rooted seedlings are fed with any complex mineral fertilizer (30 g per 10 liters of water).

When the 4th leaf appears, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature so that it is 10-12°C during the day and 8-10°C at night. The total duration of hardening should be 15-20 days.

2-3 days before transplanting and before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, especially if they were grown without pots. This will help better preserve the roots and soil ball. It is preferable to plant in the evening.

For asters, the feeding area is very important - they should never be thickened. Seedlings tall varieties placed at a distance of 20-25 cm between plants, low-growing asters are planted after 10-15 cm.

When planting in multiple rows, leave 60-70 cm between the rows. If planted on a raised flower bed (15-25 cm high), large asters are placed at a distance of 30-35 and 35-40 cm between the rows, low-growing ones at 15-20 and 20-25, respectively cm.

Planting is carried out with double watering: in the holes and from above. The soil around the planted seedlings is sprinkled (mulched) with dry soil. In hot weather, it is advisable to cover the plants with a light non-woven fabric for several days for better survival.

Our advice: In order for asters to form strong bushes with lush inflorescences, on the eve of sowing, soak the seeds for 7 hours in a solution of zinc chloride or molybdenum (0.5-08 g per 1 liter of water).

Asters can be sown in spring. as soon as the soil warms up. Usually sowing is carried out in early May, seedlings appear on May 19-24. Seeds are prepared in the same way as when sowing seedlings, and sown in furrows 0.5-0.8 cm deep.

Cover with a layer of soil, water well, and lightly mulch or cover in dry weather. non-woven material before emergence. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 10-15 cm (taking into account the fact that seedlings will continue to fall out in the future).

You don’t have to pull out the excess plants, but carefully dig them up and transplant them to another place. Asters sown directly into the ground will bloom 19-25 days later than home seedlings, but longer.



You can sow asters in late autumn. They are sown in previously prepared soil, placed in furrows, and sprinkled with prepared dry soil. The soil must be frozen when sowing, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die. Winter sowing in December-January is also possible for asters.

- We're courting. Caring for asters includes mandatory loosening of the soil. It is advisable to do this after each watering or rain. Loosen the soil to a depth of 4-6 cm, taking into account that the bulk of the roots are in the surface layer (20 cm).

So that the aster grows up to be a beauty, she needs to be fed. Usually they give 3 feeding.

The first time is fed 10-15 days after planting in the ground or thinning, using 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2.

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Feeding watermelons and melons in open ground

In order for watermelons and melons to grow well, give desired harvest, it is necessary to provide them with proper care. Care measures include regular feeding.

Watermelons and melons are grown on an industrial scale in the southern regions of our country. However, these vegetables grow well in climate conditions central Russia. To grow watermelons and melons in the northern regions, you should choose varieties that are adapted to these climatic conditions. Melons and watermelons are melon crops. The principle of feeding these vegetables is very similar to the principle of feeding cucumbers.

These crops love a lot of organic matter in the soil. Therefore, fertilizing needs to be taken especially seriously. To grow, watermelons and melons, like all other plants, require the following substances - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur. These needs must be met by feeding plants. There are two types of fertilizers - mineral and organic. Mineral ones, as a rule, are sold in stores for summer residents, and organic ones can be made with your own hands right on your site (compost, manure, humus).

Feeding scheme for watermelons and melons

Melons and watermelons are fed 5-7 times per season. It should be remembered that seedlings need to be planted in pre-fertilized soil; this does not count as fertilizing.

First feeding. The first feeding is done while growing seedlings on the windowsill. Feed immediately when the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves. A urea solution is best suited as a top dressing. It contains a lot of nitrogen, which is so necessary for plants during this growth period. To prepare the fertilizer, you need to take a tablespoon and mix it in 10 liters of water. Now you can water the seedlings.

Second feeding. The second feeding is done after the seedlings are planted in open ground. Feed after 5-6 true leaves appear. At this time, plants also need large amounts of nitrogen. You can feed with urea in the same way as during the first feeding. You can use a solution of cow dung. To prepare such a solution, you need to take a container and fill it halfway with manure, then fill it with water. In 2-3 days the feeding will be ready. To water the plants, you need to take 0.5 liters of the resulting liquid and mix it in 10 liters of water.

Subsequent feedings. Subsequent feeding is done with solutions of mullein, chicken manure, vermicompost, etc. Alternate such feedings every 7-14 days.

With this approach, watermelons and melons will grow well and produce a good harvest.

Foliar and yeast feeding of watermelons and melons

Watermelons and melons respond very well to foliar and yeast feeding. Foliar fertilizers are prepared in the same way as regular ones, only they are sprayed onto the leaves of plants. Nutrients are very well absorbed through the leaves.

For information on preparing yeast nutrition, watch this video:

Preparatory work

When and what to feed?

using organic fertilizers;

combined.

There is also a standard system for fertilizing tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open ground. If you have no experience in this matter, it is recommended to use this:

Properly fertilize tomato seedlings for the first time approximately 3 weeks after planting with a tablespoon of nitrophoska diluted in a bucket of water;

the second fertilizer should be carried out after 10 days with a teaspoon of potassium sulfate diluted in a bucket of water;

after about a week, the tomatoes are treated with saltpeter at the rate of 15 grams per bucket of water;



after another week, the plants are fed with ash and superphosphate, diluted in the same amount of water.

If you plan to fertilize tomatoes only with organic substances, the fertilizing system will be slightly different. In this case, fertilizing is carried out either with chicken droppings or manure, of which you need to take just a little bit per bucket of water. The first feeding should take place immediately upon planting, and subsequent feedings should take place every 10 days. After the tomatoes are fertilized, the soil around them must be mulched (see photo). To do this, urea diluted in water is poured into several buckets of fresh sawdust, which are subsequently placed on the ground. This allows you not only to save optimal humidity, but also inhibits the development of weeds.

Yeast feeding

After it has become clear how often to fertilize tomatoes in a greenhouse, let's consider another popular fertilizing option - yeast. Gardeners began fertilizing tomatoes with yeast quite a long time ago. They are used for good rooting of seedlings, as well as for abundant flowering. At home, you can use the following solution, which should be poured half a liter for young plants, and up to 2 liters for adults. So, to prepare the mixture you will need:

In order for asters to please the eye with magnificent flowering, they must be grown in well-lit places, because these beauties are very light-loving. To avoid infection through soil by diseases, it is recommended to return to the original planting site after 4-5 years.

Like many plants, asters cannot tolerate excessive moisture and stagnant water, so the soil must be permeable with deep groundwater.

Light sandy loam and loamy soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.5-8) are quite suitable for them, but they must first be cultivated.

— We prepare the ground. Cultivation of the soil for asters begins in the fall. The soil must be dug up to a depth of 22-30 cm and fertilizer added for digging: 2-4 kg of humus or compost (astra does not tolerate fresh manure, since it contributes to the infestation of plants by fusarium) and 6-9 g of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2.

In early spring, the soil needs to be loosened to a depth of 15-18 cm to retain more moisture and allow germination weeds who spent the winter in it.

It is advisable to sift the resulting soil mixture through a sieve with 1-1.5 cm holes. Good garden soil directly from the site will also work. Sprinkle the soil on top with a layer of clean sand 2-2.5 cm thick.

The seeds are sown scattered, not sprinkled with soil, but covered with paper. It is removed after 3-5 days, when shoots appear. Then the box is placed on a bright windowsill and the seedlings are carefully watered with water at room temperature.

The time from emergence to picking (7-8 days after emergence) is a very crucial moment, as a “black leg” may appear. During this period, you need to carefully monitor both soil moisture and air temperature. Seedlings dive when the first true leaf forms.

Hardened seedlings take root better and grow faster after transplantation. It can withstand temperatures down to minus 4°C.

During hardening, reduce watering. Plants are planted in the 2-3rd decade of May. By the time of planting in the ground, asters should have a strong stem 6-10 cm high and 5-7 large bright green leaves.

— Sow into the ground. Typically, asters are grown from seedlings for earlier flowering (especially late varieties) or for obtaining seeds. If all this is not so necessary, then asters can be grown by sowing in open ground. Such plants are less likely to suffer from fusarium and bloom longer, although they produce almost no seeds.

If there are no severe frosts, snow is raked from areas prepared for asters, dry seeds are sown in furrows and sprinkled with just dry soil or mixed with peat, and a layer of snow is poured on top. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings appear in late April - early May.

Before the plants begin to branch, light hilling can be done to a height of 5-7 cm. This will enhance root growth. When watering, you must remember that both a lack and an excess of water are harmful to asters. In hot weather, it is better to water less frequently, but abundantly (up to 3 buckets per 1 m2) and be sure to loosen after that. If in dry weather you are late with watering or give it insufficiently, the inflorescences will be small and of small size.

Advice: Asters sown before winter not only bloom earlier, but also form more lush inflorescences. If possible, then after rooting the seedlings it is better to feed the asters with a solution of mullein diluted 1:10.

When the buds appear, a second feeding is given, this time using 50-60 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The same fertilizers are given during the third feeding, which is carried out at the beginning of asters flowering.

Nina Ippolitova, candidate of agricultural sciences sciences

How to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground: options

All summer residents know that tomatoes, during the period of fruit ripening, consume many minerals from the soil in which they grow. Thanks to such minerals, vegetative mass appears - the basis of the harvest.

First, the vegetable must be fertilized with nitrogen substances. But it is worth remembering that it is better to underfeed tomatoes than to overdo it. Perfect option– feed the plant in the required quantities as it grows after the planting procedure.

After such feeding, the next procedure is necessary after the appearance of color, when the vegetable requires potassium and phosphorus. The fertilization period can be easily determined by appearance vegetable: its growth slows down, the leaves curl, and the color of the tomatoes changes.

Over the entire life period, the crop needs to be fed about four times. For the first time, the procedure must be carried out two weeks after planting the seedlings in open soil. During this period, fertilizer promotes the growth of the crop and its roots.

After this feeding, the next one is carried out 14 days later, and the third, foliar feeding, is carried out after the appearance of color or ovary. The last time plants are fed is during the harvest period.

Today there are many fertilizers used at different stages of vegetable development. For tomatoes, minerals and organic matter applied at the root and by foliar method are applicable.

You can feed tomatoes only in the bush area. The plant itself should not be fertilized, as this can cause rotting of the plant and a reduction in harvest volumes.

Tomato feeding is often carried out using organic substances, which contain microelements that promote the development of the vegetable and its high fruiting. The natural raw material for fertilizer is manure. It cannot be used raw. This fertilizer option is effective because the manure of cattle that eat hay contains a large amount of minerals and nutrients.

You can feed tomatoes with nitrogen using legumes. It is enough to plant legumes in the ground where you plan to plant tomatoes. After all, legumes perfectly saturate the soil with nitrogen, and their developed root system perfectly loosens it.

Common effective method fertilizers are green manure (infusions of grass). It is easy to prepare solutions. The main thing is the herbs that serve as raw materials. You can use nettle. It needs to be crushed and placed in a container with water. Then leave the mixture to ferment, stirring it daily.

If it appears bad smell– just add a few drops of valerian to neutralize it. If after 14 days of fermentation the solution becomes lighter, it means it is ready for use. It is worth noting that before use, such a solution must be diluted with a bucket of water (ratio 1 to ten). It is necessary to fertilize tomatoes with this mixture at the root.

Fertilizers of mineral nature are used for various stages. The most commonly used fertilizers are potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.

Potash is used during fruit ripening to improve their taste. The top dressing for this group is ash, which is easily soluble in water and is perfectly absorbed into the soil. The most effective are ash from pine and birch (contains 40% mineral).

If you feed plants with nitrogen in doses, then the mineral will have a positive effect on the crop: it will promote its normal growth and development. Fertilizers of this type: urea, calcium and potassium nitrate.

To improve the effect of fertilizing, it is worth using complex fertilizing (a combination of mineral and organic fertilizers).

The complex solution consists of a large number of useful and mineral substances that have a positive effect on tomatoes. One of the options for preparing such top dressing involves nettles and dandelions as raw materials.

There is no need to observe the ratios; it is enough to simply fill a third of the barrel (200 l) with raw materials and add manure to the mixture. Then fill everything with water, cover with cellophane and leave for 10 days. Then remove the top of the solution and pour “Gumat +7” into it. After all actions ready mixture dilute in the proportion: liter to ten. 3.5 liters of ready-made fertilizer is used for each plant.

Summer residents often use iodine as a raw material for fertilizing, which accelerates the formation of fruits, enlarges them and disinfects open ground. The solution is prepared from a ratio of 4 drops of iodine per bucket of water. Two liters of solution should be poured onto each bush. You can also use milk or whey with iodine. A liter of the prepared mixture is enough for each individual.

Video “First feeding of tomatoes after planting”

Guide to proper feeding

Tomatoes are a capricious vegetable, so you need to feed them correctly. Any mistake can result in a reduction in the quantity or quality of the harvest. Therefore, preparing the solution is a process that requires special attention.

It is worth feeding the culture in the correct proportion. Any “excesses” can lead to damage to the fruit.

The process of “feeding” plants is multifaceted and is used at different stages of vegetable development: after planting, color formation and ovaries. By following all the rules, you can get excellent vegetables in a short time.

What is the best way to feed cabbage after planting in the ground?

To answer the question of whether to feed or not, you should remember biology and chemistry, the order of plant nutrition and their growth. Nutrient components come from the soil composition, dissolve in water, pass along the stem, and penetrate into the leaves. From exposure solar lighting and water, carbon dioxide and mineral components are created organic matter that are needed for growth. From them cells are formed - the plant grows. The process is called photosynthesis.

The plant needs less microelements, but they are also necessary for normal development. This group should include:

Without nitrogen and phosphorus additives, cabbage will slow down in growth and the foliage will change color. The lack of calcium will negatively affect the entire development of the plant, which will remain small. Without copper content, the vegetable will die at the seedling stage. So it turns out that a normal harvest can be achieved if you feed the crop transplanted into the ground in a timely and correct manner. So if you want the stems to be plump and the heads of cabbage to be strong, you definitely need to fertilize the plants.

In a word, during the entire growing season, the vegetable needs to perform from three to four fertilizing in order to achieve good harvest. The first two (mandatory) occur at the initial stage of growth, the third and fourth (if necessary) are performed in June and August, respectively.

Seedlings transplanted into open ground in spring must be fed at least twice. The first procedure is carried out a couple of weeks after planting, the second - at the initial stage of fruit formation (after picking - mandatory).

Nitrogenous, good to add under the root to form the fruit

Ammonium sulfate crystalline

• ammonium nitrate. It appears in the form of off-white crystals. The price of the fertilizer is reasonable; it contains more than thirty percent of the nitrogen available to plants. The fertilizer composition is considered the most concentrated of the entire group. By applying it, It is not recommended to exceed the dosage so that the culture does not accumulate excess nitrates;
• ammonium sulfate. These are salts of sulfuric acid. The fertilizer looks like crystals white, contains about twenty percent nitrogen and sufficient quantity sulfur. It is necessary to apply it according to the norm in the amount of one hundred and fifty percent of nitrate in order to give the plants the required amount of nitrogen. But remember that This fertilizer can increase the acidity of the soil composition. which is not very desirable. And you don’t have to spray the plant to get rid of pests;
• urea. These are ammonium salts of carbonic acid. White crystals contain up to forty-six percent nitrogen, which entails a reduction in feeding rates by one and a half times.

Potassium, needed for head growth

Phosphorus, chemicals for treatment at the end of the growing season

The culture responds well not only to fertilizers purchased in the store, but also to nutritional compositions made according to folk recipes. They also help the plant produce a large, strong head.

Organic fertilizer cow manure

Water with manure to speed up growth

This is one of best options, especially if it is a white or colored variety. The manure is first diluted with water at a rate of 1 to 5. This composition can be used for the first time two weeks after the seedlings are transferred to unprotected soil. After the feeding procedure, the beds must be hilled. The second feeding is performed before the formation of the ovary begins. But in this case, it is recommended to add wood ash in the amount of forty grams to the slurry.

The third time manure is applied at a three-week interval after its second application. Watering with manure also helps protect the plant from pests and protects it from further troubles.. It's also good to spray ammonia, this is both protection and fertilizer.

Using yeast helps protect against diseases

Despite its advantages, yeast can reduce the potassium and calcium content in the soil. So when using them, it is recommended to add wood ash to the soil or eggshells(chicken) in crushed form.

A chemical compound originally obtained from a human waste product. Today, urea is produced from proteins of mammals and individual fish. With the help of such fertilizing, the plant receives the required amount of nitrogen and gains green mass faster. Before feeding, thirty grams of urea should be diluted in a bucket of water. Half a liter of the composition is poured under one plant.

Asters, like others beautiful plants are susceptible to various diseases. They often exhibit a symptom such as yellowing of the leaves, which indicates a variety of problems, including fusarium and blackleg.

Aster fusarium as a cause of yellowing of leaves

When digging and fertilizing soil, fresh soil is not used. organic fertilizers eg fresh manure. You can only use rotted compost or humus. Dilomite flour and phosphate fertilizers cope well with the problem acidic soils.

Dense planting of asters will also not lead to anything good, so the root collars must breathe. Both foliar and root feeding are equally good and not dangerous.

Black leg and other aster diseases

Black leg, bacterial rot with a terrible stench, powdery mildew, nematodes on stems and jaundice - all these diseases lead to the plant turning yellow and then withering. How to feed asters if the leaves begin to turn yellow as a result of these diseases? Any preparations or homemade solutions that contain soap are perfect. They not only eliminate these diseases, but also deal with the problem of rust and spotting.

Rust Fertilizing plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%), as well as prevention in the form of planting away from coniferous plants, will be cured.

From verticillens foundation helps. It can also be used when powdery mildew occurs.

Feeding aster from yellow leaves

Asters use systematic feeding based on yellow leaves. They are divided into three parts:

• First feeding. Carry out 10 days after planting in the ground and thinning. Fertilizers: ammonium nitrate in a volume of 25 grams, superphosphate in a volume of 50 grams and 15 grams of potassium sulfate per square meter.
• Second feeding carried out after the appearance of buds on the aster. Components such as superphosphate and potassium sulfate at 50 grams per square meter are ideal. The planted asters are gradually being prepared for the final feeding.
• Third feeding carried out already at the beginning of the flowering of asters. You can use the same mineral fertilizers and mixtures with beneficial microelements that were used in previous feedings. Constant moistening of the soil mixture and maintaining temperature and humidity are also observed.

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Preparing aster seeds for planting as seedlings

The huge flowerbed amazes with its diversity. Along the edges there is a border of low plants with small variegated inflorescences, in the middle tall bushes, crowned with large fluffy hats. An unusually rich palette of colors from snow-white to almost black. Some flowers have several shades: the edges are light, and bright colors shine through from the inside, as if a decorative lantern is hidden in the middle. Some inflorescences look like big daisies: Large center surrounded by colorful petals. Others resemble roses or peonies, with carved green leaves underneath. There are plants with balls of needles hanging on them, like multi-colored hedgehogs. There are large and narrow, double and feather-like petals. Do you want to create such beauty on your site? To do this, you do not need to purchase many different ornamental plants, you can only plant asters.

What is the best way to grow asters?

There are perennial and annual varieties of asters; you need to pay attention to this when planting them. Perennials from seeds come out small and weak; these varieties are more suitable vegetative propagation. Such plants do not require much effort, growing and caring for them is simple, but the same design every summer can get boring.

Annuals reproduce by seeds; about 4 months pass from the time of sowing to flowering. You can sow in open ground only in warm days, in the middle of May, and you will have to wait until September for flowers. You can plant seeds in the fall before winter. In this case, the soil needs to be dry and frozen. The grains will overwinter under the snow, natural stratification and hardening will occur, after which the asters will grow strong and resistant to frost.

Many gardeners prefer growing annual asters through seedlings. At home easier care seedlings, it is easy to control the conditions of maintenance and development. Many diseases of these flowers need to be caught at the very beginning, before an epidemic breaks out. At home, it is possible to inspect the leaves and stems of seedlings every day and determine why they are turning yellow or thinning. When traveling to the dacha only on weekends, you can waste time and arrive when the fungus has spread throughout the flower garden.

What will we sow?

The germination of aster seeds ends very quickly; when purchasing, look at the date and purchase only materials from the latest harvest. The weight is often written on the bag, but the number of seeds is not indicated, and a novice gardener does not know how many bushes he can plant. When purchasing, remember that 1 g contains from 300 to 500 grains, and do not buy excess seed. If you sow in the second year, only half of the seeds will germinate, and sowing the following summer will yield only 30%.

You can prepare the seed yourself. Choose the most beautiful and strong bush, leave a few central inflorescences on it and wait for them to dry. The petals should darken and begin to fall off, with small fluff peeking out from the center. On a dry, clear day, cut the flowers intended for sowing and place the whole, uncut centers in a dry, warm place. When the heads are completely dry, shake out the seeds, wrap them in paper or a cloth bag, sign the name of the variety and store them. In autumn it often rains, the weather is constantly humid, and it is impossible to wait for the seed plants to dry on the bush. In this case, after cutting, divide the head into parts and dry it disassembled. The seeds fully ripen 40 days after the flowers bloom.

Asters in a flower bed are easily pollinated. If you want to sow your own seeds, select small plots of land distant from each other for each variety, where you will plant seed plants. If you want to experiment, take seed from the very center of the flower bed, where asters of various varieties and colors grow. You may end up with a completely unusual flower.

Sowing seeds

In early April you can start sowing. When purchasing soil in a store, try to find special soil for aster seedlings. If you cannot purchase the product you need, take soil for flower crops and add sand to it in a ratio of 10:1.

You can also prepare your own composition:

1. peat – 4 parts;
2. garden soil - 2 parts;
3. sand – 1 part;
4. ash - 1 cup per 10 liters of mixture.

Stir and sift the resulting soil, then add 1 cup of perlite. This component has the ability to stretch excess moisture, and when the soil begins to dry out, it gradually moistens the soil. Place the soil in a steamer and process high temperature about an hour. This procedure will kill the fungi that often attack aster seedlings. If it is not possible to steam the soil, douse it with a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.

Seeds can also be infected with spores that cause blackleg and other seedling diseases. Before starting sowing, treat the grains in a fungicide solution; the concentration and treatment time should be indicated in the instructions for the preparation. Dry the seed and distribute it evenly over the top layer of moist soil. Fill the top with sand about 7 mm thick; it will dry the soil surface and protect the seedlings from fungal diseases. Cover the container with film without watering: the sand itself will draw moisture from the lower layers. You can carry out stratification: keep the seeds in a damp cloth in the refrigerator at night and warm during the day, repeat this for several days until sprouts appear, then the grains can be sown in the ground.

For germination, place the boxes with seeds in a warm place with a temperature of +15⁰ to +20⁰. Every day, open the crops for a few minutes to ventilate. If the surface of the sand dries out, spray it warm water from a spray bottle. In about a week, shoots will appear.

Caring for aster seedlings

When you see cotyledon leaves peeking out of the ground, remove the film and place the plantings in a bright place. Asters require proper care: weak seedlings can very quickly get sick with blackleg, fusarium and other fungal diseases. Plantings need to be watered moderately. The roots of the seedlings have already grown deep into the soil, now you don’t have to be afraid if the sand turns out to be dry.

Watch for any fungal infection; carefully dig up and destroy diseased specimens or continue to grow them separately from healthy plants. Spray the remaining seedlings with fungicides and spill the soil with a disinfectant solution. If sowing was carried out in fertilized soil, there should be enough nutrients before picking; When sowing in poor soil, a week after the sprouts appear, you need to feed the seedlings with complex fertilizer. Do not get carried away with nitrogen, it does not develop buds, but lush and large leaves.

When the third sheet forms, you can start picking. If you don't want to use purchased soil, prepare it - the same one in which you sowed the seeds, only you no longer need to sift it. Add 1 tbsp to a bucket of soil. spoon of complex fertilizer and mix thoroughly. Prepare containers for seedlings: cassettes, cups, so that each plant is grown in an individual container and it is convenient for you to care for the plantings. Pay attention to the drainage holes: if they are blocked by plastic deposits, clean them with a knife or scissors.

When using ready-made soil, pour it out of the bag and carefully look for large lumps of fertilizer. When preparing soil at home, make sure that no sticky granules get into the soil. Such accumulations can burn the tender roots of seedlings.

Fill the containers with soil, moisten and make small holes. Examine the roots of the seedlings; they should not touch the bottom of the container. Shorten rods that are too long. When planting, make sure that all root shoots are directed vertically downwards and do not bend. Seedlings often have elongated stems - deepen them into the soil so that the cotyledon leaves are at a height of 1 cm from the soil surface. Fill the hole and lightly compact the soil. Carefully water the plantings in a spiral: from the edges of the cup to the middle, try not to let the splashes fall on the stem and leaves. Place the cassettes in a cool, bright place and maintain the temperature no higher than 20⁰. In the first days, protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Basic care consists of timely watering and inspection of seedlings to identify diseases.

After picking, the aster will be grown in cups for about a month, then the time will come to plant it in the ground. If you have prepared the soil well for the seedlings, they will have enough nutrients and do not need to feed. In the event of prolonged frosts, when the plants will have to be kept at home for about 2 more weeks, there may not be enough fertilizer and the seedlings will weaken. The leaves will tell you about the lack of some components: learn to recognize why they turn yellow, wither or dry out. Asters should be fed so that they tolerate the transplant well and take root quickly. To keep the plants strong and short, provide the plantings with proper care and good lighting: in the twilight they stretch out too much.

Planting in open ground

When the fifth leaf appears, begin to harden off the seedlings. In warm weather, take them out during the day open air. After a while, listen to the weather forecast for the night, and if frost is not expected, leave the plantings outside. Seedlings ready for planting should have 5-6 true leaves and a strong stem no longer than 7 cm.

Try not to overexpose asters at home: if you plant too mature plants, they will not bloom well.

Growing flowers in open ground should take place in a sunny place. It is advisable not to plant asters where nightshades, carnations, gladioli, tulips and asters have recently grown. In low wetlands, plants will get sick; drainage and embankment can save the situation. high flower bed. Add sand to heavy and dense soil; it loosens and drains the soil.

Strong, hardened seedlings are not afraid of frosts down to -2⁰, if they do not last long. It is believed that aster dies at -5⁰, but it all depends on the variety, the condition of the seedlings and many other conditions. It is difficult to answer the question why sometimes even at 0⁰ not a single living bush will remain, and sometimes even -7⁰ will not cause any harm. To play it safe, if there is a threat of frost, cover the plantings with non-woven material.

Conclusion

In order for flower beds to be covered with colorful inflorescences earlier, aster seeds need to be sown in boxes and flowers grown through seedlings. It is very important to correctly calculate the timing of sowing seeds for your area: overgrown plants will not please you with lush inflorescences. Seedlings are ready for planting in open ground at two months of age; count from the expected transplant date 60 days ago, and you will get the date when you need to start sowing the seeds.

Caring for seedlings includes 5 basic rules.

1. Good lighting.
2. Cool.
3. Ventilation.
4. Moderate watering.
5. Daily examinations to detect infection.

If the seedlings grow poorly and look depressed, then they do not have enough nutrition and need to be fed with complex fertilizer. If you do everything correctly, you will plant strong plants with strong, low stems in the ground. Such seedlings will quickly take root and take root in a new place.

When moving to a flowerbed, do not leave long stems. If the seedlings have stretched out, you need to plant them deep in the ground so that the lower leaves are no higher than 7 cm from the surface of the soil. Monitor the weather forecast and cover your plantings if there is a threat of frost. Treat your “pets” with love, provide them with good care, and already in the middle of summer they will decorate the area with a variety of bright inflorescences.